Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:52 AM - Re: Belt replacement (was Alternator Speed) (Gilles Tatry)
2. 04:02 AM - Re: Ipod Wiring (Tinne maha)
3. 05:46 AM - Ammeter shunt wiring (Mark Neubauer)
4. 06:10 AM - Re: Master Relay Mount (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 06:18 AM - Re: Ammeter shunt wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 06:26 AM - Re: Re: Ipod Wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 08:25 AM - Re: Bringing alternator on line after (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 08:40 AM - Re: Ipod Wiring (Tinne maha)
9. 10:55 AM - Bluetooth in the cockpit (Bryan Hooks)
10. 11:54 AM - Re: Re: Ipod Wiring (Jim Baker)
11. 12:12 PM - Re: Belt replacement (was Alternator Speed) (Jon Goguen)
12. 12:36 PM - Panasonic Batterries (Ed Perl)
13. 01:22 PM - Re: Bluetooth in the cockpit (John Schroeder)
14. 01:30 PM - Re: Panasonic Batterries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 01:34 PM - Re: Bluetooth in the cockpit (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 04:32 PM - Re: Master Relay Mount (DonVS)
17. 06:04 PM - Re: Master Relay Mount (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 06:20 PM - Re: Bluetooth in the cockpit (James Freeman)
19. 06:29 PM - Re: Panasonic Batterries (Earl_Schroeder)
20. 06:31 PM - Re: Master Relay Mount (DonVS)
21. 07:45 PM - Re: Panasonic Batterries (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
22. 07:48 PM - Re: Bluetooth in the cockpit (Paul McAllister)
23. 08:27 PM - too small wire in big solder cups . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
24. 08:28 PM - Re: Master Relay Mount (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
25. 09:43 PM - Welding Cable AWG 2 (Chris Byrne)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Belt replacement (was Alternator Speed) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles Tatry" <gilles.tatry@wanadoo.fr>
Anyone knows where to order powertwist belt on line?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Belt replacement (was Alternator Speed)
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
> Hi again Terry,
>
> I found this link to a site that seems to have some good information re
> multilink type vee belts.
>
> http://www.fennerindustrial.com/products/powertwist_ind.html
>
> I hope this helps,
>
> Jim in Kelowna
Message 2
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
Jim/others,
Thanks a ton for the info & the links. Inspiring as well as educational for
a bonehead like me, but my original question still remains:
If my Ipod will take 5-30 Volts dc @ 1.0 amps max (like it says on the
backof the Ipod), what is the purpose of dropping the voltage via the
LM78xx? My aircraft will already have overvoltage protection, so can't I
just run 12 volts straight through my firewire cable from a 1.0 amp fuse?
I'm probably missing something very basic & simple here. Sorry I don't get
it.
Sort of the same question on the first link you sent: What is the purpose of
dropping the voltage from 9V to 5V? The transistor battery is incapable of
producing excessive voltage to hurt the device. Current protection is the
only function I can think of as being necessary.
Again, any inut is appreciated.
Thanks,
Grant
Time: 06:32:53 PM PST US
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker@telepath.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ipod Wiring
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker@telepath.com>
>I'm installing an Ipod mini as the music input for my intercom. All
>done except the Ipod charger, which is the subject of today's
>question.
Check out
http://ipod.hackaday.com/entry/1234000270029372/
Should be able to power and charge thru the USB port as well.
Search for LM78xx on Google, where xx is the desired output
voltage, and a bit of wiring and soldering...instant power supply.
Really easy to do. Whole power supply will run around a $1 to $2,
tops. Also
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/LM/LM7805.pdf
for data sheet and application notes.
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
'71 SV, 492TC
Elmore City, OK
________________________________ Message 15
____________________________________
Time: 06:45:08 PM PST US
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker@telepath.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ipod Wiring
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker@telepath.com>
> > I'm installing an Ipod mini as the music input for my intercom. All
> > done except the Ipod charger, which is the subject of today's
> > question.
Forgot to mention...the input voltage for this type of device is always
2 to 3 volts above the rated/desired output voltage....that is, I
wouldn't use an LM7812 in a nominally 12 volt system. For your
application I'd use a LM7809 or lower....
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
'71 SV, 492TC
Elmore City, OK
Message 3
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| Subject: | Ammeter shunt wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Neubauer" <markn@fuse.net>
I have recently started flying my GlaStar with dual alternators and dual
shunted ammeters wired per the Nuckoll's Bible (I mean this will all due
respect). I am having a problem which needs some advice:
The pair of wires connecting the shunts to the ammeters are routed with a
large number (30) of other wires, some of which carry considerable current
(like the landing light and the comm radios (during transmit). When these
devices are operated, the ammeters go nuts - sometimes indicating full
negative deflection, sometimes large positive depending on what load device
is operated. The operation is consistent for a given set of conditions, but
the number of conditions is very large.
My theory is that I am inducing EMI into the ammeter wiring, which is by
design intended to measure extremely small currents from the shunts. Of
course, the #2 ammeter, with a range of only +/- 10 amps, is the most
sensitive to this.
Would wiring these ammeters with shielded pair cable eliminate the theorized
cross-talk? If so, should the shield be grounded at the shunt end or the
ammeter end?
Any other collective wisdom to be added here?
Mark Neubauer
Message 4
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| Subject: | Master Relay Mount |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 09:31 PM 10/29/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
>
>The picture of the S701=1 on the B&C web site does not show the "boots" on
>the mounting feet. I ordered mine about three monthe ago and it also came
>with the boots.
>Do Not Archive
Aha! I didn't know these were ordered from B&C. They
must be stocking something different than when I turned
that business over to them. Has anyone considered asking
THEM about it?
Your #1 source of information about anything you purchase
SHOULD be the folks who sold it to you. So many times
we get long and wandering discussions about how or why
something should be used or doesn't work. My first
assumption is that the part was purchased from a catalog
and the seller has already been discovered to be no help.
But when you purchase from folks "in the business" and
in particular, something that is different than what's
been offered in the past, hit them up about it.
I've forwarded a copy of this to todd@bandc.biz
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Ammeter shunt wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 08:39 AM 10/30/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Neubauer" <markn@fuse.net>
>
>I have recently started flying my GlaStar with dual alternators and dual
>shunted ammeters wired per the Nuckoll's Bible (I mean this will all due
>respect). I am having a problem which needs some advice:
>
>The pair of wires connecting the shunts to the ammeters are routed with a
>large number (30) of other wires, some of which carry considerable current
>(like the landing light and the comm radios (during transmit). When these
>devices are operated, the ammeters go nuts - sometimes indicating full
>negative deflection, sometimes large positive depending on what load device
>is operated. The operation is consistent for a given set of conditions, but
>the number of conditions is very large.
>
>My theory is that I am inducing EMI into the ammeter wiring, which is by
>design intended to measure extremely small currents from the shunts. Of
>course, the #2 ammeter, with a range of only +/- 10 amps, is the most
>sensitive to this.
>
>Would wiring these ammeters with shielded pair cable eliminate the theorized
>cross-talk? If so, should the shield be grounded at the shunt end or the
>ammeter end?
>
>Any other collective wisdom to be added here?
>
>Mark Neubauer
Are these electronic ammeters? Digital? Analog? Brand?
p/n? Since you speak of two ammeters, I presume you're
not switching a single ammeter between two shunts but have
a completely separate indicators for each shunt.
How are these wired? As loadmeters for alternators? Of course
in this configuration, the instruments normally never read
negative (like a battery ammeter). I presume you've checked
the wiring for errors.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 03:55 AM 10/30/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
>
>Jim/others,
>
>Thanks a ton for the info & the links. Inspiring as well as educational for
>a bonehead like me, but my original question still remains:
>
>If my Ipod will take 5-30 Volts dc @ 1.0 amps max (like it says on the
>backof the Ipod), what is the purpose of dropping the voltage via the
>LM78xx? My aircraft will already have overvoltage protection, so can't I
>just run 12 volts straight through my firewire cable from a 1.0 amp fuse?
>I'm probably missing something very basic & simple here. Sorry I don't get
>it.
>
>Sort of the same question on the first link you sent: What is the purpose of
>dropping the voltage from 9V to 5V? The transistor battery is incapable of
>producing excessive voltage to hurt the device. Current protection is the
>only function I can think of as being necessary.
>
>Again, any inut is appreciated.
I looked over some 'net stuff on various hacks to power Ipods
from sources other than those supplied/recommended by Ipod.
In the short time I spent on this, I couldn't get a clear
picture of the Ipod's requirements or vulnerabilities.
If you've dissected an automobile cigar lighter adapter
designed to work with Ipod and it contains a 5v step-down
regulator, then an obvious solution is to mimic the same
configuration with some form of pre-regulator.
It's a crapshoot. If the critter cost $25 and you have
"faith" in back-panel labels, then hook 'er up. Given a
consumer product that costs perhaps $200 or more, I'd
personally be more cautious and go the pre-regulator
route.
An alternative is to join a "List" of hackers who are
doing these things to Ipods and see who has the most
experience and first-hand knowledge of the Ipod's inner
workings and vulnerabilities.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Bringing alternator on line after |
engine start.
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
engine start.
At 10:43 AM 9/12/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers@fdic.gov>
>
>I am building a Mustang II kit plane with a Mazda Rotary 13B engine for
>power. The stock alternator is a 60 amp internally regulated
>Mitsubishi, which will be my primary source of electrical power. In
>addition to the stock alternator, I also have a John Deere 35 amp
>permanent magnet (PM) alternator for a backup. The electrical system is
>designed to receive power from either alternator, but not both at the
>same time. I want to be able to check that both alternators are working
>before take-off, which requires that I switch the electrical feed from
>one alternator to the other while the engine is running. The switch
>would be through a contactor for each alternator, which
>connects/disconnects the B terminal, as well as the electrical feed to
>the L & R terminals (which activate the alternator).
>
>I have followed the past discussions about how it is not a good idea to
>take an internally regulated alternator off-line after it is producing
>electricity. But, my Mazda service manual has a warning that I should
>not start the engine with the L & R terminals disconnected (these are
>the terminals that are used to activate the alternator). My plan was to
>start the engine with the backup PM alternator activated, check that it
>was working, and then switch to the main 60 amp alternator and leave it
>on. I would not go back to the PM alternator unless my primary
>alternator failed.
>
>My confusion is with the warning in the service manual that I should not
>start the engine unless the (main) alternator is already on line. I do
>not know the purpose for the warning and I do not comprehend the
>possible consequences of waiting to bring the primary alternator on
>line. If I start the engine with the back-up PM alternator on line and
>later switch to the primary (stock) alternator, which is my plan, I will
>be violating the warning in the service manual, because until I switch
>to the main alternator after the engine is running, the L & R terminals
>for the main alternator will, in effect, be disconnected.
>
>Can Bob Nuckolls or anyone else give me some advice on the correct
>procedure and sequence for checking that each alternator is functioning
>prior to take-off, without doing any harm to my electrical system?
>Also, I would like to hear your speculation on why the Mazda service
>manual has the warning discussed above.
As we've discussed in some detail here on the List . . . nobody
presently subscribed to the list has an intimate knowledge of
the inner workings of regulators in the IR alternators.
Based on what I do know, I can find no foundation in physics
for the prohibition against turning the alternator on and off
at will and under any conditions. The only risks to IR alternators
identified and understood to date has been reported by some
folks through Van's where a load dump caused by operating
a b-lead contactor while the alternator was under load killed
some regulators.
Your consternation is understandable . . . the supplier
of a product to your project wants you to placard the control
switch with cautions and/or prohibitions for operating the
alternator. The design goals for aircraft electrical systems
operations established before many of us were born says this
is undesirable and my personal experience suggests that it's
unnecessary.
I think it very unlikely that the supplier of your alternator
will be able to articulate any real foundations in physics
to justify his prohibition. It sounds like a CYA move . . .
You should be able to turn any of your alternators on or off
at any time and in any combination without concern for hazards
to equipment or anomalous operation. I think for the moment
it is prudent to proceed with the idea that we'll debunk the
prohibition outright or at worst, deduce the system enhancement
that makes the prohibition go away.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
Hi Mark,
Thanks for the input. You didn't see my first post stating 'I don't want to
install a cigarette lighter' Your point about having the ability to charge
other devices is taken, but I don't currently plan on doing that. More
importantly my Ipod is mounted to the panel & is all in except for hard
wiring the charging system. I know this can be done pretty simply, I just
haven't figured out how yet. I don't want to deal long cords 'n such all
over my cockpit.
Although it does keep my options open, in this instance I equate installing
a cigarette lighter with running an extension cord to power the air
conditioning system in my house.
If my Ipod says input voltage is 5-30 Volts DC, shouldn't I be able to
connect it straight to my 12 volt system?
>From: "Mark C. Milgrom" <milgrom@earthlink.net>
>To: tinnemaha@hotmail.com
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Ipod Wiring
>Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2005 10:49:57 -0500
>
>
>Grant,
>
>
>I'm replying off-list because I'm joining this discussion late and I
>don't want to waste the list's time if I'm repeating something that's
>already been discussed.
>
>
>Regarding charging your iPod, are you sure you want to fabricate a
>custom charging solution that's unique to your specific model of iPod?
>I ask because the iPod, like all throwaway consumer entertainment
>devices, will evolve faster than you can blink an eye, and the charging
>requirements of a future iPod model might be totally different than
>your current iPod. Plus, how do you plan to charge your other handheld
>battery-powered devices during flight, such as your cell phone, your
>handheld VHF/NAV/COM backup radio, your handheld backup GPS device,
>your passenger's handheld Nintendo/Sony game device, your passenger's
>handheld DVD player, etc.?
>
>
>If you're looking for a "build it and forget it" solution, it might be
>worth thinking about installing a pair of independently-fused 12-vold
>cigarette lighter receptacles instead, and then purchasing the
>device-specific cable for each handheld device you need to charge.
>This certainly is NOT the cheapest solution, but it is the most
>"no-brainer" and adaptable solution for today's and tomorrow's handheld
>battery-powered devices.
>
>
>In any case, best of luck with your project.
>
>
>Mark Milgrom
>
>
>Tinne maha wrote:
>
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tinne maha"
><tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
>
>Jim/others,
>
>Thanks a ton for the info & the links. Inspiring as well as educational
>for
>a bonehead like me, but my original question still remains:
>
>If my Ipod will take 5-30 Volts dc @ 1.0 amps max (like it says on the
>backof the Ipod), what is the purpose of dropping the voltage via the
>LM78xx? My aircraft will already have overvoltage protection, so can't I
>just run 12 volts straight through my firewire cable from a 1.0 amp fuse?
>I'm probably missing something very basic & simple here. Sorry I don't get
>it.
>
>Sort of the same question on the first link you sent: What is the purpose
>of
>dropping the voltage from 9V to 5V? The transistor battery is incapable of
>producing excessive voltage to hurt the device. Current protection is the
>only function I can think of as being necessary.
>
>Again, any inut is appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
> Grant
>
>
>Time: 06:32:53 PM PST US
>From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker@telepath.com>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ipod Wiring
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker@telepath.com>
>
>
>I'm installing an Ipod mini as the music input for my intercom. All
>done except the Ipod charger, which is the subject of today's
>question.
>
>
>Check out
>
>http://ipod.hackaday.com/entry/1234000270029372/
>
>Should be able to power and charge thru the USB port as well.
>Search for LM78xx on Google, where xx is the desired output
>voltage, and a bit of wiring and soldering...instant power supply.
>Really easy to do. Whole power supply will run around a $1 to $2,
>tops. Also
>
>http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/LM/LM7805.pdf
>
>for data sheet and application notes.
>
>Jim Baker
>580.788.2779
>'71 SV, 492TC
>Elmore City, OK
>
>
>________________________________ Message 15
>____________________________________
>
>
>Time: 06:45:08 PM PST US
>From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker@telepath.com>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ipod Wiring
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker@telepath.com>
>
>
>I'm installing an Ipod mini as the music input for my intercom. All
>done except the Ipod charger, which is the subject of today's
>question.
>
>
>Forgot to mention...the input voltage for this type of device is always
>2 to 3 volts above the rated/desired output voltage....that is, I
>wouldn't use an LM7812 in a nominally 12 volt system. For your
>application I'd use a LM7809 or lower....
>
>
>Jim Baker
>580.788.2779
>'71 SV, 492TC
>Elmore City, OK
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Bluetooth in the cockpit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks@comcast.net>
I've been considering using a GPS / XM receiver with Bluetooth in my
RV7A, but have a couple nagging questions.
(1) In many aircraft flight manuals, there are admonitions against
using non-approved transmitting devices in the aircraft. According to
the warnings - these devices can cause unanticipated and unwanted things
to happen to navigation systems. Does anyone know if Bluetooth devices
can cause such a thing?
(2) Is the Bluetooth connection as reliable as having things hardwired
together?
Thanks in advance,
Bryan Hooks
RV7A slow-build
Knoxville, TN
Message 10
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker@telepath.com>
> My aircraft will already have overvoltage protection, so
> can't I just run 12 volts straight through my firewire cable from a
> 1.0 amp fuse?
What Mr. Nuckolls said.......
If you want to connect direct, feel free...it's your equipment. One
more link....
http://www.drewperry.co.uk/iPod/index.php?page=batterypack
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
'71 SV, 492TC
Elmore City, OK
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Belt replacement (was Alternator Speed) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jon Goguen <jon.goguen@umassmed.edu>
Gilles,
Google MSC Industrial Supply www1.mscdirect.com/ They accept small
credit card orders and ship very quickly. I often receive things in a
day without paying extra postage.
Jon
Jon Goguen
jon.goguen@umassmed.edu
Central Massachusetts
Kitfox Series V Rotax 912S / N456JG (reserved)
Complete except for electrics and avionics
"Nothing worth knowing can be understood by the human mind"
--Woody Allen
On Oct 30, 2005, at 2:44 AM, Gilles Tatry wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles Tatry"
> <gilles.tatry@wanadoo.fr>
>
> Anyone knows where to order powertwist belt on line?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Belt replacement (was Alternator Speed)
>
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell"
>> <jjewell@telus.net>
>>
>> Hi again Terry,
>>
>> I found this link to a site that seems to have some good information
>> re
>> multilink type vee belts.
>>
>> http://www.fennerindustrial.com/products/powertwist_ind.html
>>
>> I hope this helps,
>>
>> Jim in Kelowna
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Panasonic Batterries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ed Perl <ed.perl@sympatico.ca>
I see that Panasonic makes two batteries that will fit the PC680 Box
(7.13x2.99x6.58).
A 17 Ah and a 20 Ah. Are these similar to the odyssey 680.
And which would you use.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Bluetooth in the cockpit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Bryan -
I have flown my tablet pc with a Weather Worx bluetooth receiver in a
C-182 and an RV-6A. There were no problems with either. WE are installing
it in our Lancair ES back on the hatshelf. There seems to be one problem
with bluetooth - at least with the weather worx receiver: it can break
lock and the only reilable way to get it back for our tablet-wxworx lashup
is to recycle it. WE installed an on-off switch where we can get to it
from the pilot's seat for this purpose. It also controls the rear seat
power jack, as well as the power jack near the hatshelf.
I like the bluetooth because it reduces the number of wires (spaghetti) in
the cockpit that plug into the tablet. We also have a blue tooth gps
antenna/receiver and that leaves only the power wire for the tablet. I
like to take the tablet and the gps on road trips, as well as flights.
Hope this helps.
John Schroeder
Lancair ES 95%/95%
> (1) In many aircraft flight manuals, there are admonitions against
> using non-approved transmitting devices in the aircraft. According to
> the warnings - these devices can cause unanticipated and unwanted things
> to happen to navigation systems. Does anyone know if Bluetooth devices
> can cause such a thing?
>
> (2) Is the Bluetooth connection as reliable as having things hardwired
> together?
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Panasonic Batterries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 03:27 PM 10/30/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ed Perl <ed.perl@sympatico.ca>
>
>I see that Panasonic makes two batteries that will fit the PC680 Box
>(7.13x2.99x6.58).
>
>A 17 Ah and a 20 Ah. Are these similar to the odyssey 680.
>And which would you use.
I'm not the only difference I can see in the spec
sheets is a lower internal resistance for the 20 a.h.
device . . . and its slightly higher capacity. I can
only guess that the 20 a.h. device has more and thinner
plates which makes it better for cranking but may have
adverse impact on deep-cycle life. If your major interest
is in cranking ability, I'd go for the 20 a.h. product.
In the long run, if you're going to do yearly changeout
as a preventative maintenance practice, either battery
would be fine so in this case, go for the least expensive.
Bob . . .
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Bluetooth in the cockpit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 01:48 PM 10/30/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bryan Hooks"
><bryanhooks@comcast.net>
>
>I've been considering using a GPS / XM receiver with Bluetooth in my
>RV7A, but have a couple nagging questions.
>
>(1) In many aircraft flight manuals, there are admonitions against
>using non-approved transmitting devices in the aircraft. According to
>the warnings - these devices can cause unanticipated and unwanted things
>to happen to navigation systems. Does anyone know if Bluetooth devices
>can cause such a thing?
>
>(2) Is the Bluetooth connection as reliable as having things hardwired
>together?
(1) Bluetooth is stationed in the 2.5 GHz unlicensed range for
low power communications. I can deduce no good reason to be
concerned about interference TO your aircraft accessories.
It's more likely that the Bluetooth stuff will barf when you
transmit on a comm radio.
(2) Cords and connectors take beating in the cockpit. I'd go
for anything to reduce wires and connectors any day.
Bob . . .
Message 16
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| Subject: | Master Relay Mount |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
Thanks Bob,
The contactor should work fine even without the case being "grounded". The
input side is wired to the positive pole of the coil. The positive and
negative sides are connected with a diode. I,m not sire why the original
contactor was grounded by its mounting legs, but, grounded or not it should
still work. Just my thoughts, please let me know if I am way off on this.
Thanks. Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
L. Nuckolls, III
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Master Relay Mount
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 09:31 PM 10/29/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
>
>The picture of the S701=1 on the B&C web site does not show the "boots" on
>the mounting feet. I ordered mine about three monthe ago and it also came
>with the boots.
>Do Not Archive
Aha! I didn't know these were ordered from B&C. They
must be stocking something different than when I turned
that business over to them. Has anyone considered asking
THEM about it?
Your #1 source of information about anything you purchase
SHOULD be the folks who sold it to you. So many times
we get long and wandering discussions about how or why
something should be used or doesn't work. My first
assumption is that the part was purchased from a catalog
and the seller has already been discovered to be no help.
But when you purchase from folks "in the business" and
in particular, something that is different than what's
been offered in the past, hit them up about it.
I've forwarded a copy of this to todd@bandc.biz
Bob . . .
Message 17
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| Subject: | Master Relay Mount |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 04:28 PM 10/30/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
>
>Thanks Bob,
>The contactor should work fine even without the case being "grounded". The
>input side is wired to the positive pole of the coil. The positive and
>negative sides are connected with a diode. I,m not sire why the original
>contactor was grounded by its mounting legs, but, grounded or not it should
>still work. Just my thoughts, please let me know if I am way off on this.
>Thanks. Don
If they're S701-1 contactors, then there should be no continuity
from any terminal of the contactor to the case. You can check this
out with an ohmmeter.
Given that these critters run warm anyhow, I think I'd rather
see them bolted down solid on metal feet to metal surfaces.
I'm really mystified by the plastic booties. Would they slip
off? If you took them off, would they then look like the old
S701-1?
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Contactors/s701-1l.jpg
Bob . . .
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
>L. Nuckolls, III
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Master Relay Mount
>
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
>At 09:31 PM 10/29/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
> >
> >The picture of the S701=1 on the B&C web site does not show the "boots" on
> >the mounting feet. I ordered mine about three monthe ago and it also came
> >with the boots.
> >Do Not Archive
>
> Aha! I didn't know these were ordered from B&C. They
> must be stocking something different than when I turned
> that business over to them. Has anyone considered asking
> THEM about it?
>
> Your #1 source of information about anything you purchase
> SHOULD be the folks who sold it to you. So many times
> we get long and wandering discussions about how or why
> something should be used or doesn't work. My first
> assumption is that the part was purchased from a catalog
> and the seller has already been discovered to be no help.
>
> But when you purchase from folks "in the business" and
> in particular, something that is different than what's
> been offered in the past, hit them up about it.
>
> I've forwarded a copy of this to todd@bandc.biz
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>--
>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>
>
>-- incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------------------
< Throughout history, poverty is the normal condition >
< of man. Advances which permit this norm to be >
< exceeded -- here and there, now and then -- are the >
< work of an extremely small minority, frequently >
< despised, often condemned, and almost always opposed >
< by all right-thinking people. Whenever this tiny >
< minority is kept from creating, or (as sometimes >
< happens) is driven out of a society, the people >
< then slip back into abject poverty. >
< >
< This is known as "bad luck". >
< -Lazarus Long- >
<------------------------------------------------------>
http://www.aeroelectric.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Bluetooth in the cockpit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
FYI there is a known issue with the WxWorx-supplied power supply in
composite aircraft. Comm transmissions will instantly and repeatably
blow the fuse in the power supply.
This was a chronic issue in Cirrus SR22s, and they kept blaming the
electrical system of the Cirrus until this was discovered. Rolling
your own power supply or using one of the Radio Shack adjustable
power supplies is a permanent fix.
James Freeman
On Oct 30, 2005, at 3:17 PM, John Schroeder wrote:
>
> I have flown my tablet pc with a Weather Worx bluetooth receiver in a
> C-182 and an RV-6A. There were no problems with either. WE are
> installing
> it in our Lancair ES back on the hatshelf.
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Panasonic Batterries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Earl_Schroeder <Earl_Schroeder@juno.com>
Ed Perl wrote:
>I see that Panasonic makes two batteries that will fit the PC680 Box
>(7.13x2.99x6.58).
>
>A 17 Ah and a 20 Ah. Are these similar to the odyssey 680.
>And which would you use.
>
>
>
I replaced my 17AH Panasonic with a 680 and would not go back.. MUCH
better cranking power.
The Panasonic in question may be a different model.... I doubt that mine
was intended for starting engines... Earl
Message 20
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| Subject: | Master Relay Mount |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
They will not slip off. It may be possible to cut them off. I believe that
they are the same product other than boots. I'll call B&C in the morning and
ask why they switched to the boots. There is no continuity between any
terminal and the case. Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
L. Nuckolls, III
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Master Relay Mount
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 04:28 PM 10/30/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
>
>Thanks Bob,
>The contactor should work fine even without the case being "grounded". The
>input side is wired to the positive pole of the coil. The positive and
>negative sides are connected with a diode. I,m not sire why the original
>contactor was grounded by its mounting legs, but, grounded or not it should
>still work. Just my thoughts, please let me know if I am way off on this.
>Thanks. Don
If they're S701-1 contactors, then there should be no continuity
from any terminal of the contactor to the case. You can check this
out with an ohmmeter.
Given that these critters run warm anyhow, I think I'd rather
see them bolted down solid on metal feet to metal surfaces.
I'm really mystified by the plastic booties. Would they slip
off? If you took them off, would they then look like the old
S701-1?
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Contactors/s701-1l.jpg
Bob . . .
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
>L. Nuckolls, III
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Master Relay Mount
>
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
>At 09:31 PM 10/29/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
> >
> >The picture of the S701=1 on the B&C web site does not show the "boots"
on
> >the mounting feet. I ordered mine about three monthe ago and it also
came
> >with the boots.
> >Do Not Archive
>
> Aha! I didn't know these were ordered from B&C. They
> must be stocking something different than when I turned
> that business over to them. Has anyone considered asking
> THEM about it?
>
> Your #1 source of information about anything you purchase
> SHOULD be the folks who sold it to you. So many times
> we get long and wandering discussions about how or why
> something should be used or doesn't work. My first
> assumption is that the part was purchased from a catalog
> and the seller has already been discovered to be no help.
>
> But when you purchase from folks "in the business" and
> in particular, something that is different than what's
> been offered in the past, hit them up about it.
>
> I've forwarded a copy of this to todd@bandc.biz
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>--
>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>
>
>-- incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------------------
< Throughout history, poverty is the normal condition >
< of man. Advances which permit this norm to be >
< exceeded -- here and there, now and then -- are the >
< work of an extremely small minority, frequently >
< despised, often condemned, and almost always opposed >
< by all right-thinking people. Whenever this tiny >
< minority is kept from creating, or (as sometimes >
< happens) is driven out of a society, the people >
< then slip back into abject poverty. >
< >
< This is known as "bad luck". >
< -Lazarus Long- >
<------------------------------------------------------>
http://www.aeroelectric.com
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Panasonic Batterries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 10/30/2005 2:37:27 PM Central Standard Time,
ed.perl@sympatico.ca writes:
A 17 Ah and a 20 Ah. Are these similar to the odyssey 680.
And which would you use.
>>>
I'm on my second 20 Ah batt (18 month change-out) and it's worked fine for
250 hrs on my 150 hp Lyc using a non-reduction drive Prestolite boat anchor
starter. I always pre-heat below about 35 degrees and have never had a problem
with cranking...
Mark Phillips
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Bluetooth in the cockpit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Hi all,
Well I can confirm this issue, but until now I didn't know why, and yes, I
did solve it by rolling my own powersupply.
Paul
Message 23
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| Subject: | too small wire in big solder cups . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Bob - I'm soldering 8AWG wire into solder cups for 4 AWG wire. When I put
the wire in and fill it with solder when it cools the solder joint has a
small hole where the flux comes out (using rosin core solder) and when I
use solid wire solder the joint is not blent together with the wire. There
is also excessive wicking and the joint is very cloudy not shiney. What do
you recommend? Your expertise will be greatly appreciated.
By using solder to fill the gaps for the too-small wire, you'll
have a compromised joint especially mechanically. Do you
have access to a lathe? I'd cut some step up adapters from
brass rod stock. Little hole in end for 8AWG and cut the
i.d. to fit your solder cups with about .002" radial
clearance for solder to wick in.
Then use 63/37 or 60/40 electronic solder to make up the
joints. I've done this many times with great results.
Bob . . .
Message 24
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| Subject: | Master Relay Mount |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 06:28 PM 10/30/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
>
>They will not slip off. It may be possible to cut them off. I believe that
>they are the same product other than boots. I'll call B&C in the morning and
>ask why they switched to the boots. There is no continuity between any
>terminal and the case.
Very good. That's good data to know.
Bob . . .
Message 25
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| Subject: | Welding Cable AWG 2 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris Byrne" <jack.byrne@bigpond.com>
Listers
Just a thought.
Would the cable from high quality Jump Start leads be suitable for the short
runs to the starter etc in place of welding cable.
Ther are good and bad jump start cables. I have a good one and would be a
good source if suitable.
Chris Byrne
Sydney
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