Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:17 AM - Fw: was ipod (bob noffs)
2. 04:44 AM - Re: Panasonic Batterries (LarryRobertHelming)
3. 06:07 AM - Re: (Battery Box) Panasonic Batterries (N5SL)
4. 06:48 AM - Re: Welding Cable AWG 2 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 06:49 AM - Re: too small wire in big solder cups . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 07:38 AM - Re: Master Relay Mount (sjhdcl@kingston.net)
7. 01:23 PM - Electronic Ignition Problem (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
8. 01:30 PM - Fw: Re: Master Relay Mount (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 01:32 PM - Re: Bluetooth in the cockpit (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
10. 01:35 PM - Re: Electronic Ignition Problem (sportav8r@aol.com)
11. 01:57 PM - Suzuki Samuri Alternator (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
12. 02:22 PM - Re: Electronic Ignition Problem (Matt Prather)
13. 03:30 PM - Re: Suzuki Samuri Alternator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 03:49 PM - Re: Suzuki Samuri Alternator (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
15. 04:03 PM - Re: Electronic Ignition Problem (LarryRobertHelming)
16. 04:10 PM - Re: Electronic Ignition Problem (william rumburg)
17. 05:35 PM - Audio Amplifier Installation Questions (Jon Finley)
18. 08:50 PM - Re: Audio Amplifier Installation Questions (Tom Brusehaver)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "bob noffs" <icubob@newnorth.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: bob noffs
Subject: was ipod
hi all,
i have a garmin 12 handheld gps that i use to drive a palm pilot. cables that
give power to only the gps are a dime a dozen but i have found only one vendor
that has one that powers the palm too and it is $90. even palm corporate phone
offers no tech help for a question like''how many hours from the light source
in a palm before it burns out?'' anyway,,,, any advice on a source for a cable
like i am looking for, or another way to get power to the palm? thanks
bob noffs
p.s. how would i find a link to a ''hacker'' like is mentioned for ipod?
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Panasonic Batterries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I hold my battery in a Vans aircraft battery box kit. The Odyssey 680 is
what the box was designed to fit with. I used two 17ah Panasonic batteries
in the past and found each was just a tad to big to fit into the box. I got
them to fit but had to sand them to remove about 1/16th of inch on the
outside case. The panasonic cranked the O-360 just fine as does my Odyssey.
I change every year per Bob's recommendation.
Indiana Larry in Evansville, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Panasonic Batterries
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 10/30/2005 2:37:27 PM Central Standard Time,
> ed.perl@sympatico.ca writes:
> A 17 Ah and a 20 Ah. Are these similar to the odyssey 680.
> And which would you use.
>>>>
>
> I'm on my second 20 Ah batt (18 month change-out) and it's worked fine for
> 250 hrs on my 150 hp Lyc using a non-reduction drive Prestolite boat
> anchor
> starter. I always pre-heat below about 35 degrees and have never had a
> problem
> with cranking...
>
> Mark Phillips
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: (Battery Box) Panasonic Batterries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
FYI, I'm pretty sure the Vans battery box is the standard metal jacket that comes
with the PC-680MJ. MJ stands for "Metal Jacket." I purchased a PC-680 locally
and all they had was the "MJ" unit. I removed the metal jacket fromt the
battery (it was barely hot-glued in there), then drilled some large holes and
voila - I had a Vans battery box. See it here:
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/10_15_05_Battery_Box3.JPG
Of course it's a perfect fit. This really says a lot for Vans and the way they
go the extra mile in finding the perfect application and improving it and offering
it for sale. I've started using them more and more for parts I can't find
anywhere else. If I hadn't stumbled upon the "MJ" battery I would have ordered
the Vans PC680 installation kit for $50. The extra cost for the "MJ" unit
was around $50.
Scott Laughlin
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/
LarryRobertHelming <lhelming@sigecom.net> wrote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
I hold my battery in a Vans aircraft battery box kit. The Odyssey 680 is
what the box was designed to fit with. I used two 17ah Panasonic batteries
in the past and found each was just a tad to big to fit into the box. I got
them to fit but had to sand them to remove about 1/16th of inch on the
outside case.
---------------------------------
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Welding Cable AWG 2 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 04:39 PM 10/31/2005 +1100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris Byrne"
><jack.byrne@bigpond.com>
>
>Listers
>
>Just a thought.
>Would the cable from high quality Jump Start leads be suitable for the short
>runs to the starter etc in place of welding cable.
>Ther are good and bad jump start cables. I have a good one and would be a
>good source if suitable.
Difficult to say. Welding cable is pretty much designed to
function in environmentally harsh situations. Jumper cables
spend 99.999% of their lives in the trunk of your car. Welding
cables are professional/industrial materials, jumper cables
consumer grade with insulation of variable pedigree. I've
purchased jumper cable sets to get the big clips. I cut off
the old wire (usually absurdly too small) and replace with
4 or 2AWG welding cable. Now THAT's a set of jumper cables.
Short answer is, I have no basis to recommend what you propose.
Welding supply stores will sell you wire by the foot for very
little cost.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: too small wire in big solder cups . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>Bob - would the adapter be a sleeve designed for 8 awg wire where the wire
>would go
>all the way through or would it be designing a solder cup for 8 awg wire
>simply to fit into
>my 4 awg solder cup?
How deep are the 4AWG solder cups? You only need to grab a wire
over about two diameters of length but if the 8AWG went all the
way to the bottom of the 4AWG cup, it wouldn't hurt anything.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Master Relay Mount |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
No. In fact it says "do not ground case" right on the relay.
Steve
RV7A
> If they're S701-1 contactors, then there should be no continuity
> from any terminal of the contactor to the case. You can check this
> out with an ohmmeter.
>
> Given that these critters run warm anyhow, I think I'd rather
> see them bolted down solid on metal feet to metal surfaces.
> I'm really mystified by the plastic booties. Would they slip
> off? If you took them off, would they then look like the old
> S701-1?
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Contactors/s701-1l.jpg
>
> Bob . . .
Message 7
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Subject: | Electronic Ignition Problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Listers,
I've got two ElectroAir Electronic Ignition Systems in my RV-6A. While
they operate fine once the engine has been started, I'm having a problem
starting the engine. The ignition systems seem to be in and out of a reset
mode during the time the starter is running.
My electrical system has two batteries. One battery is used exclusively
to power the ignitions during engine start. Both ignitions are enabled
during the time the starter is ON.
I've looked at the voltage supplies to both ignitions (with a sampling
oscilloscope) during the time the starter is running. I've also looked at
the timing sensor signal. Both traces showed no noise or abnormalities.
Hence the confusion.....
My question to the list is, has anyone else had this type of problem (with
dual electronic ignitions), and more specifically, with ElectroAir
Ignitions?
I'm about to give up on the dual Electronic ignitions, and put an impulse
Mag in just so the engine starts reliably.... I have ordered two "P" Mags.
Will I have the same problems with these??????
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
485 Hrs Second offender...
Message 8
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Subject: | Master Relay Mount |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Here's Todd's reply to our question about the battery master
relay they sell. Some other folks have noted that the relay is
now annotated on the case with a statement "do not ground case".
I'me very curious as to what prompted this design change. I'll
look into it further. Thanks for the heads-up Todd . . .
Bob . . .
>To: "Todd Koerner" <todd@bandc.biz>
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Master Relay Mount
>
>At 08:33 AM 10/31/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>>
>>Bob,
>>It is the same part that we have always sold. The manufacturer did a design
>>change and added the "boots". Same part number that you have ordered for
>>years, and then turn over to us. Again, Manufacturer change, not B&C
>>change.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Todd Koerner
>>B&C Specialty Products, Inc
>>316-283-8000
>>www.bandc.biz
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:nuckollsr@cox.net]
>>Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 8:04 AM
>>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>>Cc: todd@bandc.biz
>>Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Master Relay Mount
>>
>>At 09:31 PM 10/29/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>>
>> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
>> >
>> >The picture of the S701=1 on the B&C web site does not show the "boots" on
>> >the mounting feet. I ordered mine about three monthe ago and it also came
>> >with the boots.
>> >Do Not Archive
>>
>> Aha! I didn't know these were ordered from B&C. They
>> must be stocking something different than when I turned
>> that business over to them. Has anyone considered asking
>> THEM about it?
>>
>> Your #1 source of information about anything you purchase
>> SHOULD be the folks who sold it to you. So many times
>> we get long and wandering discussions about how or why
>> something should be used or doesn't work. My first
>> assumption is that the part was purchased from a catalog
>> and the seller has already been discovered to be no help.
>>
>> But when you purchase from folks "in the business" and
>> in particular, something that is different than what's
>> been offered in the past, hit them up about it.
>>
>> I've forwarded a copy of this to todd@bandc.biz
>>
>> Bob . . .
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Bluetooth in the cockpit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
James,
I've been blowing the WxWorx unit fuses in my RV-6A. Even sent the unit
back to WxWorx once because the Bluetooth part of the unit blew out. Your
message seems to imply that this is a know problem, but this is the first
time I've heard about it.
If I remember properly, the WxWorx unit uses a 9VDC input. What Radio
Shack supply do you recommend?
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: James Freeman <
flyeyes@mac.com <mailto:flyeyes@mac.com> >
FYI there is a known issue with the WxWorx-supplied power supply in
composite aircraft. Comm transmissions will instantly and repeatably
blow the fuse in the power supply.
This was a chronic issue in Cirrus SR22s, and they kept blaming the
electrical system of the Cirrus until this was discovered. Rolling
your own power supply or using one of the Radio Shack adjustable
power supplies is a permanent fix.
James Freeman
On Oct 30, 2005, at 3:17 PM, John Schroeder wrote:
>
> I have flown my tablet pc with a Weather Worx bluetooth receiver in
a
> C-182 and an RV-6A. There were no problems with either. WE are
> installing
> it in our Lancair ES back on the hatshelf.
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
Fred, you may have other issues with the Pmags (I'm tracking down an intermittent
very brief stumbling in cruise, and adjusting the advance on my dual Pmag setup)
but one thing I can assure you is that your engine will start on the first
blade. The difference is remarkable.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electronic Ignition Problem
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR"
<Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Listers,
I've got two ElectroAir Electronic Ignition Systems in my RV-6A. While
they operate fine once the engine has been started, I'm having a problem
starting the engine. The ignition systems seem to be in and out of a reset
mode during the time the starter is running.
My electrical system has two batteries. One battery is used exclusively
to power the ignitions during engine start. Both ignitions are enabled
during the time the starter is ON.
I've looked at the voltage supplies to both ignitions (with a sampling
oscilloscope) during the time the starter is running. I've also looked at
the timing sensor signal. Both traces showed no noise or abnormalities.
Hence the confusion.....
My question to the list is, has anyone else had this type of problem (with
dual electronic ignitions), and more specifically, with ElectroAir
Ignitions?
I'm about to give up on the dual Electronic ignitions, and put an impulse
Mag in just so the engine starts reliably.... I have ordered two "P" Mags.
Will I have the same problems with these??????
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
485 Hrs Second offender...
Message 11
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Subject: | Suzuki Samuri Alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Hi all,
Sdo I was out flying yesterdayand as I slowed the engine down in the
pattern the alternator warning light came on and the volts dropped to
12.5.
I managed to make it come back on line speeding the engine up again and
after that it came on and off occasionally.
I am assuming the intermittent nature of the issue indicates worn or
dirty brushes.
The alt is the Suzuki samuri internally regulated unit by Nippon Denso.
I am alittle reluctant to just go exchange the alternator if it is just
a brush issue...Unless of course one can't buy brushes for it.
But I would assume the alternaor itself generally sound.
Anybody any thoughts on this?
Thanks
Frank
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Hi Fred,
This is interesting. Last things first.. If the P-Mag works as
adverstised, you won't have any problems.
Questions/comments embedded.
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W
> UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> I've got two ElectroAir Electronic Ignition Systems in my RV-6A. While
> they operate fine once the engine has been started, I'm having a problem
> starting the engine. The ignition systems seem to be in and out of a
> reset mode during the time the starter is running.
Is there a way to positively determine this (reset mode - info from the
manufacturer)?
> My electrical system has two batteries. One battery is used
> exclusively
> to power the ignitions during engine start. Both ignitions are enabled
> during the time the starter is ON.
> I've looked at the voltage supplies to both ignitions (with a sampling
> oscilloscope) during the time the starter is running. I've also looked
> at the timing sensor signal. Both traces showed no noise or
> abnormalities. Hence the confusion.....
(With respect,) Are you pretty confident in your abilities to use the
scope? Sometimes an analog VM is an easier tool to use to observe this
kind of problem with. What signal are you using to trigger the scope?
Where in the circuit are you taking the scope pictures (both v+ and
ground)? Is the probe point at the EI module, or back on some bus?
What kind of ground wire path is provided between the engine and the
batteries? I wonder if "ground bounce" might be getting you... Are the
EI's using the engine case as a grounding point? When you engage the
starter, the voltage of the crankcase will rise, maybe a lot, depending
one how big the ground strap is. The EI's will see that rise in ground
voltage as a drop in supply voltage.
> My question to the list is, has anyone else had this type of problem
> (with
> dual electronic ignitions), and more specifically, with ElectroAir
> Ignitions?
> I'm about to give up on the dual Electronic ignitions, and put an
> impulse
> Mag in just so the engine starts reliably.... I have ordered two "P"
> Mags. Will I have the same problems with these??????
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A N926RV
> 485 Hrs Second offender...
>
Regards,
Matt-
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Suzuki Samuri Alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 01:56 PM 10/31/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
><frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Hi all,
>
>Sdo I was out flying yesterdayand as I slowed the engine down in the
>pattern the alternator warning light came on and the volts dropped to
>12.5.
>
>I managed to make it come back on line speeding the engine up again and
>after that it came on and off occasionally.
>
>I am assuming the intermittent nature of the issue indicates worn or
>dirty brushes.
>
>The alt is the Suzuki samuri internally regulated unit by Nippon Denso.
>I am alittle reluctant to just go exchange the alternator if it is just
>a brush issue...Unless of course one can't buy brushes for it.
>
>But I would assume the alternaor itself generally sound.
>
>Anybody any thoughts on this?
If you just turn it in for a replacement, it's unlikely that
you'll ever know exactly what caused it to fail. If you DO
decide to trade it in, let me know what the core is worth
and I'll buy if from you for the core value plus UPS shipping
if you'll send it to me. Don't know when I'd get a chance to
dig into it but it would be interesting knowing exactly what
quit.
Bob . . .
Message 14
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Subject: | Suzuki Samuri Alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Okey dokey I'll bear that in mind...I might just whip the back off
because if it is just a worn brush issue it should be obvious.
Thanks
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Suzuki Samuri Alternator
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
--> <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 01:56 PM 10/31/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George
(Corvallis)"
><frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Hi all,
>
>Sdo I was out flying yesterdayand as I slowed the engine down in the
>pattern the alternator warning light came on and the volts dropped to
>12.5.
>
>I managed to make it come back on line speeding the engine up again and
>after that it came on and off occasionally.
>
>I am assuming the intermittent nature of the issue indicates worn or
>dirty brushes.
>
>The alt is the Suzuki samuri internally regulated unit by Nippon Denso.
>I am alittle reluctant to just go exchange the alternator if it is just
>a brush issue...Unless of course one can't buy brushes for it.
>
>But I would assume the alternaor itself generally sound.
>
>Anybody any thoughts on this?
If you just turn it in for a replacement, it's unlikely that
you'll ever know exactly what caused it to fail. If you DO
decide to trade it in, let me know what the core is worth
and I'll buy if from you for the core value plus UPS shipping
if you'll send it to me. Don't know when I'd get a chance to
dig into it but it would be interesting knowing exactly what
quit.
Bob . . .
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Fred, the problem you are having is part of the reason my pre-install
research directed me to install one ElectroAir Ignition and one standard
impulse mag. Also, I did not to go through the expense of installing a
perfect 100% electric system (dual batteries and alternators, etc.) Some
EIs have a problem making strong spark if the battery is a bit low or the
starter is drawing too many of the available amps. My plane is started with
only the impulse mag on and then I turn on the EI after it is running. The
ElectroAir EI runs my engine very smoothly and I am happy with it. I am
happy with my starting also.
Indiana Larry
----- Original Message -----
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR"
> <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> I've got two ElectroAir Electronic Ignition Systems in my RV-6A. While
> they operate fine once the engine has been started, I'm having a problem
> starting the engine. The ignition systems seem to be in and out of a reset
> mode during the time the starter is running.
> My electrical system has two batteries. One battery is used exclusively
> to power the ignitions during engine start. Both ignitions are enabled
> during the time the starter is ON.
> I've looked at the voltage supplies to both ignitions (with a sampling
> oscilloscope) during the time the starter is running. I've also looked at
> the timing sensor signal. Both traces showed no noise or abnormalities.
> Hence the confusion.....
> My question to the list is, has anyone else had this type of problem
> (with
> dual electronic ignitions), and more specifically, with ElectroAir
> Ignitions?
> I'm about to give up on the dual Electronic ignitions, and put an impulse
> Mag in just so the engine starts reliably.... I have ordered two "P" Mags.
> Will I have the same problems with these??????
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A N926RV
> 485 Hrs Second offender...
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Electronic Ignition Problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "william rumburg" <lancair403@earthlink.net>
Fred -
I installed dual Electroair ignitions in my Lancair 320 ten years ago and
have never experienced a problem with them, with the exception of a few
rare instances of engine kickback during starting...NOT a good thing. To
the credit of my SkyTec starter, it has endured a dozen or more instances
of these kickbacks.
I spoke with the SkyTec's engineer/owner and he told me the problem was
that the Electroair ignition can lose timing during starting should the
voltage drop sufficiently low, as would be the case with a weak battery. I
remembered that the kickbacks had always occurred late in the life of the
three or four batteries I've gone through ( I know, three or four batteries
in ten years is excessive, but I now use a battery minder to maintain them
during periods of inactivity and they should now last their full five to
six year life)
I have an all electric installation (no vacuum pump) with Main and Backup
batteries. The Backup battery is charged from the Main bus, but is
otherwise isolated, unless I switch to backup power, in which case it's
dedicated to the electronic iginition. I now switch to backup power prior
to starting and the ignition receives full voltage. I've never experienced
a kickback problem since.
Bill Rumburg
N403WR
> I've got two ElectroAir Electronic Ignition Systems in my RV-6A. While
> they operate fine once the engine has been started, I'm having a problem
> starting the engine. The ignition systems seem to be in and out of a reset
> mode during the time the starter is running.
> My electrical system has two batteries. One battery is used exclusively
> to power the ignitions during engine start. Both ignitions are enabled
> during the time the starter is ON.
> I've looked at the voltage supplies to both ignitions (with a sampling
> oscilloscope) during the time the starter is running. I've also looked at
> the timing sensor signal. Both traces showed no noise or abnormalities.
> Hence the confusion.....
> My question to the list is, has anyone else had this type of problem
(with
> dual electronic ignitions), and more specifically, with ElectroAir
> Ignitions?
> I'm about to give up on the dual Electronic ignitions, and put an
impulse
> Mag in just so the engine starts reliably.... I have ordered two "P" Mags.
> Will I have the same problems with these??????
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A N926RV
> 485 Hrs Second offender...
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Audio Amplifier Installation Questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
Hi Bob,
I have a Q2 with a mono Flightcom 403mc intercom. I am connecting an MP3
playing to the music input and have a very low audio level (classic
discussion and have read the archives on it).
I have purchased a Velleman "Universal Stereo Pre-Amplifier" (kit K2572 -
manual at
http://www.velleman.be/downloads/0/Illustrated/Illustrated_assembly_manual_K
2572.pdf and have a couple of hookup questions.
1. The Left and Right outputs from my MP3 are not shielded. The above
kit includes a ground input for each shield. Should I just leave these
disconnected or connect ground to them?
2. Should I take both amplifier outputs (left/right) and wire them
together to the intercom (mono input) or use just one or the other (this
seems wrong)?
Thanks very much for the assistance.
Jon Finley
N90MG Q2 - Subaru EJ-22 DD - 470 Hrs. TT
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://www.FinleyWeb.net/Q2Subaru
Message 18
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|
Subject: | Re: Audio Amplifier Installation Questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom Brusehaver" <cozytom@mn.rr.com>
Use like a 1K resistor on each high side, to
"mix" the signals into the intercom. Connect
the grounds together.
On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 19:33:39 -0600, Jon Finley <jon@finleyweb.net> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
>
> Hi Bob,
>
>
> I have a Q2 with a mono Flightcom 403mc intercom. I am connecting an MP3
> playing to the music input and have a very low audio level (classic
> discussion and have read the archives on it).
>
>
> I have purchased a Velleman "Universal Stereo Pre-Amplifier" (kit K2572 -
> manual at
> http://www.velleman.be/downloads/0/Illustrated/Illustrated_assembly_manual_K
> 2572.pdf and have a couple of hookup questions.
>
>
> 1. The Left and Right outputs from my MP3 are not shielded. The
> above
> kit includes a ground input for each shield. Should I just leave these
> disconnected or connect ground to them?
> 2. Should I take both amplifier outputs (left/right) and wire them
> together to the intercom (mono input) or use just one or the other (this
> seems wrong)?
>
>
> Thanks very much for the assistance.
>
>
> Jon Finley
> N90MG Q2 - Subaru EJ-22 DD - 470 Hrs. TT
>
> Apple Valley, Minnesota
>
> http://www.FinleyWeb.net/Q2Subaru
>
>
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