Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:12 AM - 2005 Matronics Email List Fund Raiser [Please Read]... (Matt Dralle)
2. 05:17 AM - Re: Suzuki Samuri Alternator (Charlie Kuss)
3. 06:01 AM - Re: Suzuki Samuri Alternator (LarryRobertHelming)
4. 06:27 AM - Re: Starting problems (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
5. 07:24 AM - Re: Hard Starting (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
6. 07:39 AM - Re: ElectroAir! (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
7. 08:36 AM - Electronic Ignition Problem (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
8. 08:53 AM - Re: Electronic Ignition Problem (Mike)
9. 10:38 AM - Re: Bluetooth in the Cockpit (Jesse Saint)
10. 11:37 AM - Protection for E-Bus Alternate Feed? (pfsiegel)
11. 11:42 AM - Intercomm and XM (Tony Marshall)
12. 11:54 AM - Re: Protection for E-Bus Alternate Feed? (Dave Morris \)
13. 12:14 PM - Re: Intercomm and XM (Bill Denton)
14. 12:51 PM - Z-19 Layout Help (Mark R. Supinski)
15. 05:09 PM - Coax crimper (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
16. 05:54 PM - Re: Bluetooth in the cockpit (John Schroeder)
17. 05:55 PM - Re: Bluetooth in the cockpit (John Schroeder)
18. 05:57 PM - Ammeter shunt wiring, Part II (Mark Neubauer)
19. 05:59 PM - Re:Fw: was ipod (Tinne maha)
20. 08:49 PM - Re: Protection for E-Bus Alternate Feed? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | 2005 Matronics Email List Fund Raiser [Please Read]... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Matronics Email Listers,
Each year during the month of November, I hold a PBS-like fund raiser
to support the Email Lists sponsored here. As you have probably
noticed, there is no commercial advertising on any of the
List-related web pages or in any of the email distributions. The
Matronics Lists are supported completely though the generous
Contributions of its members.
Making a Contribution to support the continued operation and upgrade
of the Matronics Aviation Lists is completely voluntary, but I
encourage you to consider making a donation that is equal to the
value and entertainment you have received from these Lists over the past year.
And thanks to a number of extremely generous members/businessmen
found on the Lists, there are some truly awesome Free Gifts to be had
during this year's List Fund Raiser! Andy Gold of the The Builder's
Bookstore, Paul Besing of Aeroware Enterprises, and Jon Croke of
Homebuilt HELP have all contributed products from their respective
catalogs in support of this year's Fund Raiser! Thank you!
Andy, Paul, and Jon are great guys and I really appreciate their
support for the Lists. I encourage each List member to visit their
respective web sites for a closer look at each of their great product
lines. Its guys like these that make this such a great hobby/sport
to be a part of! I have included links to each of their web sites below.
And just like PBS, I will be making pretty regular reminder requests
throughout the month of November. I ask for your kind consideration
and understanding during this time and realize that this Fund Raiser
is the *only* source of financing and support I have for these
Lists. I am continually upgrading and improving the hardware and
systems required in support of the Lists. This year saw a
substantial upgrade to all of the computer room infrastructure
including gigabit networking, dedicated air conditioning, an
equipment rack, and high-performance system chassis upgrades. Yes,
it was expensive, but I feel the Lists are worth it! Hopefully you do too!
All of these upgrades are what add up to the High-Performance,
Highly-Available system that everyone has come to expect of the Email
Lists at Matronics.
Please make a Contribution today to support these upgrades and the
continued operation of the Matronics Email Lists. The Contribution
web site is fast, easy, and secure to use. You can even select a
sweet Free Gift with a qualifying Contribution amount. The
Contribution Site can be found here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your generous support!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Sponsors of this Year's Matronics List Fund Raiser
Andy Gold - The Builder's Bookstore - http://www.buildersbooks.com
Paul Besing - Aeroware Enterprises - http://www.kitlog.com
Jon Croke - Homebuilt HELP - http://www.homebuilthelp.com
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Suzuki Samuri Alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
At 04:56 PM 10/31/2005, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
><frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Hi all,
>
>Sdo I was out flying yesterdayand as I slowed the engine down in the
>pattern the alternator warning light came on and the volts dropped to
>12.5.
>
>I managed to make it come back on line speeding the engine up again and
>after that it came on and off occasionally.
>
>I am assuming the intermittent nature of the issue indicates worn or
>dirty brushes.
>
>The alt is the Suzuki samuri internally regulated unit by Nippon Denso.
>I am alittle reluctant to just go exchange the alternator if it is just
>a brush issue...Unless of course one can't buy brushes for it.
>
>But I would assume the alternaor itself generally sound.
>
>Anybody any thoughts on this?
>
>Thanks
>
>Frank
Frank,
I would also check the rectifier diodes. You may have several diodes
which have failed open.
Charlie Kuss
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Suzuki Samuri Alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Charlie Kuss: How does anyone check the rectifier diodes? I ask this
because I have looked at a failed alternator (different type '77 honda
civic) and what I think might be the diodes seem to be soldered to the
surrounding casing material. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Indiana Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Suzuki Samuri Alternator
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
> <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> At 04:56 PM 10/31/2005, you wrote:
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
>><frank.hinde@hp.com>
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>>Sdo I was out flying yesterdayand as I slowed the engine down in the
>>pattern the alternator warning light came on and the volts dropped to
>>12.5.
>>
>>I managed to make it come back on line speeding the engine up again and
>>after that it came on and off occasionally.
>>
>>I am assuming the intermittent nature of the issue indicates worn or
>>dirty brushes.
>>
>>The alt is the Suzuki samuri internally regulated unit by Nippon Denso.
>>I am alittle reluctant to just go exchange the alternator if it is just
>>a brush issue...Unless of course one can't buy brushes for it.
>>
>>But I would assume the alternaor itself generally sound.
>>
>>Anybody any thoughts on this?
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Frank
>
> Frank,
> I would also check the rectifier diodes. You may have several diodes
> which have failed open.
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | RE: Starting problems |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Denis,
Thanks for the reply. I've considered the starting RPM issue, but haven't
yet investigated it. With the power source and sensor noise issues ruled
out, it's about the only issue left. As the weather gets colder, cranking
RPM should diminish a bit, and that may lead to a clue to an excessive RPM
issue during engine startup. Maybe I can borrow a B&C starter and try it
out. Or even an old Lycoming starter...
I too reverted to the REM37BY plugs. it solved the detonation issue I was
having with Auto plugs. The engine now runs very smooth.....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
-----Original Message-----
From: Denis Walsh [mailto:denis.walsh@comcast.net]
Subject: Starting problems
Fred if I had a problem like this, you are the one I would ask!
I only have a single Electroair and use if for starting only every
once in a while. It has always worked fine. What I would check
first if I were you is the cranking RPM vs the "switchover rpm". I
don't remember what these numbers are but I remember noting (back
when I was running a sky-tec starter) that it was very close.
Ironically it was ok (slower cranking ) on cold days.
What I am trying to suggest is that the electorair may be switching
over to its advanced state during cranking before the engine has
caught. The other thing I have noted is that the EIS will sometimes
go into reset with a power interruption, but it sounds like you have
ruled that out?.
Since I have switched to B&C starter I have noted the cranking RPM is
down around 200 or less all the time.
This is a long shot but all I can think of. My engine is an O-360 so
it may be cranking a little slower than yours, too. But maybe that
was only your first 6a with he O-320?
Anyway good luck and hope this helps. Sorry if it is too basic.
BY the Way. I finally go the plug problems whipped by going to REM
37BY and fabricating sturdy lead ends using a kit from Champion as
suggested by the pmag folks.
Denis Walsh
On Oct 31, 2005, at 2:18 PM, Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W
> UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> I've got two ElectroAir Electronic Ignition Systems in my RV-6A.
> While
> they operate fine once the engine has been started, I'm having a
> problem
> starting the engine. The ignition systems seem to be in and out of
> a reset
> mode during the time the starter is running.
> My electrical system has two batteries. One battery is used
> exclusively
> to power the ignitions during engine start. Both ignitions are enabled
> during the time the starter is ON.
> I've looked at the voltage supplies to both ignitions (with a
> sampling
> oscilloscope) during the time the starter is running. I've also
> looked at
> the timing sensor signal. Both traces showed no noise or
> abnormalities.
> Hence the confusion.....
> My question to the list is, has anyone else had this type of
> problem (with
> dual electronic ignitions), and more specifically, with ElectroAir
> Ignitions?
> I'm about to give up on the dual Electronic ignitions, and put an
> impulse
> Mag in just so the engine starts reliably.... I have ordered two
> "P" Mags.
> Will I have the same problems with these??????
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A N926RV
> 485 Hrs Second offender...
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | RE: Hard Starting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Bruce,
I've also tried variations in the starting process, and hopefully, have
ruled out a fuel/mixture related issues. It's been suggested by others that
the ElectroAir Ignitions have a low RPM timing threshold that may be
exceeded by the capabilities of some starter RPM's, especially the SkyTec
starters. I need to investigate this further, but, with colder weather
coming here in New England, and hence, slower starting RPM's, I may get my
answer through usage.
It's interesting that you are having problems with the Rocky Mountain
Monitor sensing the RPM signal from the ElectroAir Ignitions. This signal is
a 10-12 Volt pulse that should be fairly immune to noise. If I were you, I
would try re-wiring these two signals with a single shielded lead for each
ignition, with the shield grounded only on the firewall end of the leads.
That may solve your apparent wire bundling issue.... I've done this with the
interface to my Electronics International RPM gage, and am not having any
errors in the readings...
I have nothing against Jeff's ignitions system. I put over 2000 Hrs on a
single unit on my last RV-6A, with only one sensor failure. So far, I have
put over 6 sensors into these units, and just recently, have converted over
to a new style sensor (1/2" Vs 3/8"). Jeff modified both sensor bodies, and
installed the new sensors for free, even though he now doesn't own the
company. I call that very good support..... So I'm not yet ready to give up
on these units.... I guess that's why we're flying "Experimental"
aircraft....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
-----Original Message-----
From: brucebell74 [mailto:brucebell74@sbcglobal.net]
Subject: Hard Starting
Hi Fred,
I also have starting problems but think it was my not familiar with the fuel
injection system an Airflow Performance System. In fact one of the things I
did was send the servo back to be checked and it was checked ok. Jeff Rose
hasn't been too helpful on helping me out. He sold the business and will
give advice but I am still having problems. Also have the Rocky Mountain
Monitor and when the ElectoAir wires all tye wrapped up the RPM doesn't
work. I sent the Monitor back and it was ok. Looks like we are about to
flood the market with used ElectoAir Ignition System!
Bruce
Message 6
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Bruce,
I don't see much RPM drop with either single unit switched off. You might
have a timing issue. Be sure that, with the 0* timing jumpers installed, you
are firing both ignitions at 0* TDC (with an automotive timing light) at a
very low RPM. You should also verify that both ignitions show very close to
the same timing with the 0* timing jumper off (at a very low RPM). It might
not be what you expect - 25* BTDC... Jeff indicated to me that it takes a
special timing light to get an accurate reading... I saw about 30* on
mine...
Be sure that you have the wires going to the correct plugs. The coil packs
should be cylinder 1-4 starting at the post nearest to the other electrical
connection block.
Also check out the resistance of each ignition wire. Because of length
differences, they will not be the same, but should be in the same order of
magnitude (10,000 - 30,000 ohms). If you have an internal disconnect (that
results in arcing, wire failure, and excessive radio noise) you will read an
infinite resistance.
I am also using the REM37BY plugs as auto plugs caused detonation problems
with my O-320DiA 9:1 compression engine....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
-----Original Message-----
From: brucebell74 [mailto:brucebell74@sbcglobal.net]
Subject: ElectoAir!
Hi Fred,
I have two ElectroAir Ignition Systems on my IO320. Not flown yet but
tracking down an excessive RPM drop with one system off. What do you get on
ground run up with one off. Mine drops about 300 RPM and runs very rough. I
was looking for something about 50 RPM drop. The local engine guru suggest I
switch some wires on the modules and see what happens. He did a visual check
on it and it looks good. What sort of drop do you get on ground checks? I
will switch plug wires tomorrow. I am looking at dual mags!
Best regards,
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV-4 Ser # 2888 N23BB (Used my VAL COM yesterday for the first time with
Lubbock Ground and was " loud and clear"!
Message 7
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| Subject: | Electronic Ignition Problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Bill,
Interesting, I have a similar setup. I always start the engine with the
ignition on a separate, isolated battery. I don't get a kickback, but it
just doesn't start well. I've even tried different mixtures during startup
(to the extent of flooding the engine). Some listers have indicated that the
starter may be turning the engine over too fast for the ignition during
startup. I have a SkyTec starter. What are you using?
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
Fred -
I installed dual Electroair ignitions in my Lancair 320 ten years ago
and
have never experienced a problem with them, with the exception of a
few
rare instances of engine kickback during starting...NOT a good thing.
To
the credit of my SkyTec starter, it has endured a dozen or more
instances
of these kickbacks.
I spoke with the SkyTec's engineer/owner and he told me the problem
was
that the Electroair ignition can lose timing during starting should
the
voltage drop sufficiently low, as would be the case with a weak
battery. I
remembered that the kickbacks had always occurred late in the life of
the
three or four batteries I've gone through ( I know, three or four
batteries
in ten years is excessive, but I now use a battery minder to maintain
them
during periods of inactivity and they should now last their full five
to
six year life)
I have an all electric installation (no vacuum pump) with Main and
Backup
batteries. The Backup battery is charged from the Main bus, but is
otherwise isolated, unless I switch to backup power, in which case
it's
dedicated to the electronic iginition. I now switch to backup power
prior
to starting and the ignition receives full voltage. I've never
experienced
a kickback problem since.
Bill Rumburg
N403WR
Message 8
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| Subject: | Electronic Ignition Problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mike" <mlas@cox.net>
Fred,
I have the Plasma III electronic ignition in my airplane, but it sounds
to me that your system has a bad ground setup, or you ignition system is
not automatically retarding the timing for starting. With electronic
ignition systems working properly the plane should start on the first or
second blade if the engine is tuned properly. I have test flown 6
airplanes with electronic ignition systems and they all (after
tuning)ran like Swiss watches and started on the first two blades and at
very low throttle settings (700rpm). You should be able to get the
airplane to start like a car if everything is set up correctly.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electronic Ignition Problem
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W
UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Bill,
Interesting, I have a similar setup. I always start the engine with
the
ignition on a separate, isolated battery. I don't get a kickback, but it
just doesn't start well. I've even tried different mixtures during
startup
(to the extent of flooding the engine). Some listers have indicated that
the
starter may be turning the engine over too fast for the ignition during
startup. I have a SkyTec starter. What are you using?
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
Fred -
I installed dual Electroair ignitions in my Lancair 320 ten years
ago
and
have never experienced a problem with them, with the exception of
a
few
rare instances of engine kickback during starting...NOT a good
thing.
To
the credit of my SkyTec starter, it has endured a dozen or more
instances
of these kickbacks.
I spoke with the SkyTec's engineer/owner and he told me the
problem
was
that the Electroair ignition can lose timing during starting
should
the
voltage drop sufficiently low, as would be the case with a weak
battery. I
remembered that the kickbacks had always occurred late in the life
of
the
three or four batteries I've gone through ( I know, three or four
batteries
in ten years is excessive, but I now use a battery minder to
maintain
them
during periods of inactivity and they should now last their full
five
to
six year life)
I have an all electric installation (no vacuum pump) with Main and
Backup
batteries. The Backup battery is charged from the Main bus, but
is
otherwise isolated, unless I switch to backup power, in which case
it's
dedicated to the electronic iginition. I now switch to backup
power
prior
to starting and the ignition receives full voltage. I've never
experienced
a kickback problem since.
Bill Rumburg
N403WR
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Bluetooth in the Cockpit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
I am new to the list, but I saw this on the archives and thought I would
chime in.
I haven't heard of Bluetooth causing any problems, and just the fact that it
seems to be so popular with all of the different weather system vendors (the
PC or Pocket PC based ones) says to me that there aren't interference
problems with it. We have a hard-wired system. I got an extra antenna for
the WX receiver and mounted the receiver in a place that is easy to get to
for taking it to another plane, so it is still portable. I would say in
general that hard-wired is almost always better than wireless. The only
case that wireless would be a more reliable connection may be if you are
moving the weather unit around a lot and you could end up getting a
conductor break in one of the cables (you would probably have to move it
around a whole lot for this to happen). If you are planning on setting it
up in your plane and not moving it much or removing it much, then you are
probably better off with wires, and will save money on the equipment as
well. After all, you already have a ton of wires behind your panel and
throughout your airframe, so what is the problem with a few more.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 10
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| Subject: | Protection for E-Bus Alternate Feed? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: pfsiegel <psiegel@fuse.net>
I am in the final stages of design for an alternate feed for an E-Bus
from an always hot battery bus.
My design goal is to have an alternate feed to the E-Bus available in
the event that the normal feed from the Main Power Distribution Bus
fails. (This could occur if, say for example, the battery contactor to
the Main Power Distribution Bus fails.)
The E-Bus could be called upon to supply as much as 20 amps.
It would seem my options to protect the alternate feed include:
1) Fuse (inline or surface mount)
a. Cylindrical fuse
b. Blade Type fuse
2) Circuit Breaker
3) Current Limiter
4) Relay
5) Contactor
6) Delfi Automotive Battery Disconnect Module
For safety considerations, this protection should be placed next to the
battery, which might rule out a traditional circuit breaker.
Since this would be an emergency use feature, the protection option
chosen must have very high reliability.
What is the difference between a current limiter and a fuse?
I would like to try to avoid a relay or contactor because of the
mechanical nature of the connection which might be more prone to failure?
PLEASE give me some input! What are advantages and disadvantages of my
options. Am I overlooking any other viable alternatives?
(Bob, are you listening?)
Paul Siegel
Message 11
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| Subject: | Intercomm and XM |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
My RV6 has a Dave Clark IsoCom intercom. That device has no music input
jack. Since the device fits nicely into a hole in my panel, I really dont
wish to change it.
If I were to purchase a Garmin 396 and thereby have XM radio capability, is
there a 'reasonable' way to introduce that into my intercom system? Since I
fly alone most of the time, even if it were just available to my headset (a
Peltor noice cancelling one), that would be satisfactory....but having that
available to both headsets would definitely be better.
Any thoughts?
Tony Marshall
RV6
Polson, MT
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Protection for E-Bus Alternate Feed? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave Morris \"BigD\"" <BigD@DaveMorris.com>
Which of the schematics are you basing your system on?
Dave Morris
At 01:36 PM 11/1/2005, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: pfsiegel <psiegel@fuse.net>
>
>I am in the final stages of design for an alternate feed for an E-Bus
>from an always hot battery bus.
>
>My design goal is to have an alternate feed to the E-Bus available in
>the event that the normal feed from the Main Power Distribution Bus
>fails. (This could occur if, say for example, the battery contactor to
>the Main Power Distribution Bus fails.)
>
>The E-Bus could be called upon to supply as much as 20 amps.
>
>It would seem my options to protect the alternate feed include:
>
>1) Fuse (inline or surface mount)
> a. Cylindrical fuse
> b. Blade Type fuse
>
>2) Circuit Breaker
>
>3) Current Limiter
>
>4) Relay
>
>5) Contactor
>
>6) Delfi Automotive Battery Disconnect Module
>
>For safety considerations, this protection should be placed next to the
>battery, which might rule out a traditional circuit breaker.
>
>Since this would be an emergency use feature, the protection option
>chosen must have very high reliability.
>
>What is the difference between a current limiter and a fuse?
>
>I would like to try to avoid a relay or contactor because of the
>mechanical nature of the connection which might be more prone to failure?
>
>PLEASE give me some input! What are advantages and disadvantages of my
>options. Am I overlooking any other viable alternatives?
>(Bob, are you listening?)
>
>Paul Siegel
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Intercomm and XM |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Denton" <bdenton@bdenton.com>
There are any number of places (including Sporty's) that offer a "box" that
provides a cellphone/music interface.
You plug your headset and your music source into the box, then plug the
cables from the box into your existing headset/mic jacks...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tony
Marshall
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Intercomm and XM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
My RV6 has a Dave Clark IsoCom intercom. That device has no music input
jack. Since the device fits nicely into a hole in my panel, I really dont
wish to change it.
If I were to purchase a Garmin 396 and thereby have XM radio capability, is
there a 'reasonable' way to introduce that into my intercom system? Since I
fly alone most of the time, even if it were just available to my headset (a
Peltor noice cancelling one), that would be satisfactory....but having that
available to both headsets would definitely be better.
Any thoughts?
Tony Marshall
RV6
Polson, MT
Message 14
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| Subject: | Z-19 Layout Help |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark R. Supinski" <mark.supinski@gmail.com>
Hello all-
I'm having some problems physically laying out Z-19 for my Mustang 2 powered
by a Mazda 13B rotary engine.
One of my goals is to have all the fuse blocks located within reach of the
pilot. On the Mustang 2, the only location for this is against the port
wall, essentially next to the pilot's knees. A consequence of this is that
the wire runs from the main battery bus and the engine battery bus to the
Main and Engine battery contactors is much more than 6 inches -- in fact, it
is 48 inches. http://www.supinski.net/topview.jpg shows this.
While I could relocate the main and engine bus fuse blocks forward of the
firewall, I would prefer to not to do this. My dual redundant ECUs want to
be located in the cockpit area (not forward of the firewall as in a car) so
I prefer to keep the fuse block in the same neighborhood as well. Presumably
I could increase the size of the wire used for each (currently 12awg) to
make up for extra length. Am I asking for trouble doing this? Should I
simply relocate the blocks & be done with it?
Next is the physical location to install the main, engine, and starter
contactors. http://www.supinski.net/frontview.jpg shows my proposed install.
My goal here is to keep all the electrical components on the "cool" side of
the engine. Rotarys run way-hot & I figure the less I have on the exhaust
side, the happier I'll be. If I have to move the fuse blocks from above,
then I start having problems locating the spark igniters (4, not shown on
the drawing). In general, I am suffering from not enough real-life examples
of actual component layouts to emulate. Everyone around here has by-the-book
Lycoming layouts; not an EFI system to be found.
Sage advice welcome & greatfully accepted...
Thanks,
Mark Supinski
Message 15
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Hello all,
Had to break down and buy a crimper for my RG58 terminations (one I
borrowed from work was worn).
I purchased a cheapo from Radio Shack at $17 and it works very well. I
know these crimpers are usually more expensive so I thought I'd pass on
this tip.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Denton
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Intercomm and XM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Denton"
--> <bdenton@bdenton.com>
There are any number of places (including Sporty's) that offer a "box"
that provides a cellphone/music interface.
You plug your headset and your music source into the box, then plug the
cables from the box into your existing headset/mic jacks...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tony
Marshall
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Intercomm and XM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall"
--> <tony@lambros.com>
My RV6 has a Dave Clark IsoCom intercom. That device has no music input
jack. Since the device fits nicely into a hole in my panel, I really
dont wish to change it.
If I were to purchase a Garmin 396 and thereby have XM radio capability,
is there a 'reasonable' way to introduce that into my intercom system?
Since I fly alone most of the time, even if it were just available to my
headset (a Peltor noice cancelling one), that would be
satisfactory....but having that available to both headsets would
definitely be better.
Any thoughts?
Tony Marshall
RV6
Polson, MT
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Bluetooth in the cockpit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Hello James -
I tried the WxWorx blue tooth receiver in the back of our e-glass Lancair
ES (not flying yet). It works like a charm - even when transmitting on com
1 (Garmin AT 480). The antenna is in the vertical fin and is about 5 feet
away from the receiver. However, when I transmitted on Com 2 (Garmin AT
SL-30), the fuse on the power supply blew. The antenna for this radio is
only 18 inches away from the receiver. Both are Bob Archer Antennas.
Location seems to have some effect on this problem.
I called WxWorx and they admit that Cirrus has a big problem. They are in
the nearing the end of developing a new power supply that is not supposed
to be vulnerable to the radiation or whatever causes this. In the
meantime, they recommended a Radio Shack item for $32. They are not sure
how they will handle the upgrade to the new one - free, small fee or big
fee.
We are not flying yet, so we can wait to see how it shakes out.
Thanks for the heads-up.
John Schreoder
On Sun, 30 Oct 2005 20:16:38 -0600, James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
>
> FYI there is a known issue with the WxWorx-supplied power supply in
> composite aircraft. Comm transmissions will instantly and repeatably
> blow the fuse in the power supply.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Bluetooth in the cockpit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Hi Paul -
Any details, schematics and pictures of this power supply?
Thanks,
John
On Sun, 30 Oct 2005 21:45:36 -0600, Paul McAllister
<paul.mcallister@qia.net> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister"
> <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
>
> Hi all,
>
> Well I can confirm this issue, but until now I didn't know why, and yes,
> I
> did solve it by rolling my own powersupply.
>
> Paul
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Ammeter shunt wiring, Part II |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Neubauer" <markn@fuse.net>
The ammeters (2 of them) were purchased from Van's, I presume they are
analog, and 50 mA rating if I remember correctly. They were wired just like
that shown in Aeroelectric Connection (in the alternator output line). The
shunts were purchased from B&C (It's been 2 years since they were wired) One
is connected to show current flow from alt#1 (a B&C externally regulated
unit), the other from alt#2 (an SD-8); no switching is therefore needed for
individual readings.
Bob, you ask if these are electronic ammeters. What other kind of ammeter is
there besides electronic?
Message 19
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
I got in touch with some 'hacker' sites for Ipod info by going to
'makezine.com' & doing a search for your particular issue. There is a lot
of haystack to sift through to find your needle though. Still looking for
mine. Also might want to try 'hackaday.com'
Good Luck!
Time: 04:17:53 AM PST US
From: "bob noffs" <icubob@newnorth.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Fw: was ipod
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "bob noffs" <icubob@newnorth.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: bob noffs
Subject: was ipod
hi all,
i have a garmin 12 handheld gps that i use to drive a palm pilot. cables
that
give power to only the gps are a dime a dozen but i have found only one
vendor
that has one that powers the palm too and it is $90. even palm corporate
phone
offers no tech help for a question like''how many hours from the light
source
in a palm before it burns out?'' anyway,,,, any advice on a source for a
cable
like i am looking for, or another way to get power to the palm? thanks
bob noffs
p.s. how would i find a link to a ''hacker'' like is mentioned for ipod?
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Protection for E-Bus Alternate Feed? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 02:36 PM 11/1/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: pfsiegel <psiegel@fuse.net>
>
>I am in the final stages of design for an alternate feed for an E-Bus
>from an always hot battery bus.
>
>My design goal is to have an alternate feed to the E-Bus available in
>the event that the normal feed from the Main Power Distribution Bus
>fails. (This could occur if, say for example, the battery contactor to
>the Main Power Distribution Bus fails.)
>The E-Bus could be called upon to supply as much as 20 amps.
How come so many amps? What's on the e-bus?
Bob . . .
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