Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:28 AM - 3 conductor AWG18 cable (James Foerster)
2. 02:02 AM - Re: 3 conductor AWG18 cable (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mich=E8le_Delsol?=)
3. 03:06 AM - source for molex connectors (rd2@evenlink.com)
4. 03:28 AM - Re: source for molex connectors (Bruce Gray)
5. 04:35 AM - GPS antennas ()
6. 04:59 AM - Re: EGT/CHT thermocouple cable (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 05:10 AM - Bob Archer VOR antenna? (Matt Jurotich)
8. 05:44 AM - source for molex connectors (rd2@evenlink.com)
9. 06:23 AM - Re: EGT/CHT thermocouple cable (Ralph E. Capen)
10. 06:48 AM - OV Module (Ron)
11. 06:50 AM - Battery Charging Question - Fight or Switch? (Mark R Steitle)
12. 07:06 AM - Re: EGT/CHT thermocouple cable (John Tvedte)
13. 07:35 AM - Re: EGT/CHT thermocouple cable (Chuck Jensen)
14. 07:46 AM - Re: 3 conductor AWG18 cable (Brian Lloyd)
15. 08:14 AM - Re: EGT/CHT thermocouple cable (John Tvedte)
16. 08:54 AM - Re: Bob Archer VOR antenna? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
17. 09:40 AM - Re: Bob Archer VOR antenna? (Dan Checkoway)
18. 09:54 AM - Re: 3 conductor AWG18 cable (Mickey Coggins)
19. 10:28 AM - Why use starter contactor? (Bob Lee)
20. 10:35 AM - Re: Bob Archer VOR antenna? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
21. 10:37 AM - Re: EGT/CHT thermocouple cable (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
22. 10:50 AM - Re: EGT/CHT thermocouple cable (Ralph E. Capen)
23. 11:04 AM - Re: Why use starter contactor? (sportav8r@aol.com)
24. 11:09 AM - Re: OV Module (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
25. 11:10 AM - Re: Why use starter contactor? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
26. 11:44 AM - Shunts (Mitchell Goodrich)
27. 12:51 PM - Re: Why use starter contactor? (sportav8r@aol.com)
28. 02:34 PM - Re: source for Molex connectors (Nancy Ghertner)
29. 03:00 PM - Re: Why use starter contactor? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
30. 03:03 PM - Re: 3 conductor AWG18 cable (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
31. 03:04 PM - Re: Shunts (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
32. 03:17 PM - Re: 3 conductor AWG18 cable (Bill Denton)
33. 03:41 PM - Re: Why use starter contactor? (Ken)
34. 03:50 PM - Re: Microswitch (Charlie Kuss)
35. 03:53 PM - Re: 3 conductor AWG18 cable (Bruce Gray)
36. 04:47 PM - Re: Battery Charging Question - Fight or Switch? (Brian Lloyd)
37. 04:52 PM - Re: 3 conductor AWG18 cable (Brian Lloyd)
38. 06:25 PM - Re: source for molex connectors (Bob C.)
Message 1
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Subject: | 3 conductor AWG18 cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Foerster" <jmfpublic@comcast.net>
Michele asked:
I am looking for 3 conductor AWG18 cable to hook up the strobe lights.
Steinair does not have it Does any one have a thought on a source for
this?
This was discussed one or two years ago. I don't recall the numbers, but the losses
from using 22 gauge wire, which is much lighter, and available from Steinair,
are quite acceptable. I'm using 22 gauge three conductor shield wire for
my Whelen strobes, and expect no problem. I was very impressed at the weight
of the shielded 18 gauge supplied by Whelen. The 22 gauge, needing a smaller
shield, is much lighter. Search the archive if you truly believe that 18 gauge
is needed.
Jim Foerster, jmfpublic(at)comcast_dot_net Jabiru J400 wiring
Message 2
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Subject: | 3 conductor AWG18 cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mich=E8le_Delsol?= <michele.delsol@microsigma.fr>
I should have been a little more specific - my question related to feeding
the power supply and synching three strobes together. Since the current is
not steady I prefer to shield the feed lines - 4 amps on 18awg should be OK.
On the strobe light side, since we are dealing with 400V or so, amperage is
very low and transient so 22awg should be OK.
Michle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James
Foerster
Sent: jeudi 26 janvier 2006 09:25
Subject: AeroElectric-List: 3 conductor AWG18 cable
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Foerster"
<jmfpublic@comcast.net>
Michele asked:
I am looking for 3 conductor AWG18 cable to hook up the strobe lights.
Steinair does not have it Does any one have a thought on a source for
this?
This was discussed one or two years ago. I don't recall the numbers, but
the losses from using 22 gauge wire, which is much lighter, and available
from Steinair, are quite acceptable. I'm using 22 gauge three conductor
shield wire for my Whelen strobes, and expect no problem. I was very
impressed at the weight of the shielded 18 gauge supplied by Whelen. The 22
gauge, needing a smaller shield, is much lighter. Search the archive if you
truly believe that 18 gauge is needed.
Jim Foerster, jmfpublic(at)comcast_dot_net Jabiru J400 wiring
Message 3
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Subject: | source for molex connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com
Can anyone point me to sources for molex connectors? I need several small
ones male-female (2, 3, 4 pin) but neither R-Shack nor local auto stores
seem to have what I need.
Rumen
Message 4
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Subject: | source for molex connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
http://www.steinair.com/
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rd2@evenlink.com
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 6:02 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: source for molex connectors
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com
Can anyone point me to sources for molex connectors? I need several small
ones male-female (2, 3, 4 pin) but neither R-Shack nor local auto stores
seem to have what I need.
Rumen
Message 5
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Cc: <avionics-list@matronics.com>, <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
Responding to an AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: "Richard
Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
1/26/2006
Hello Dick, My Garmin GNS 430 came with an antenna and installation
instructions for the antenna that called for a large metal ground plane
under the antenna. I called the Garmin tech people and protested.
The technician said there was no real need for such a ground plane, but
suggested that if I was going to put the antenna under a fiberglass upper
cowling area near the engine that I mount it on a small metal shelf to help
screen the antenna from electromagnetic junk that might be radiated from
below.
This I did, ensuring that the antenna had a view clear of any metal
obstruction in the entire upper hemisphere. It has worked great.
OC
<<I know many folks have mounted their GPS antennas under fiberglass
components like
cowls. Most have reported no problem with reception.
Has anyone with this configuration had a problem they could identify? Any
reasons
not to go this route? Any other considerations other than insuring
unrestricted
view of the sky and no metallic materials in the fiberglass.? Thanks Dick
Sipp>>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: EGT/CHT thermocouple cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 09:45 PM 1/25/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
>
>I didn't see that; thanks for pointing it out.
>
>Don't I recall from somewhere that it's okay to use, say, crimp-on molex
>pins on the appropriate extension wires, as long as a certain symmetry of
>junctions in the cable run is maintained? I think that's how i extended
>by GRT probe wires ages ago, and it _seems_ to work okay.
As long as your T/C wires are 20 or 22AWG, you can run them through
ordinary D-sub connectors . . . SOLID MACHINED pins preferred. While
the pins for a D-sub are NOT identical to the thermocouple wires being
joined, they insert a pair of equal but opposing parasitic thermocouples
into both leadwires. The parasitic thermocouples cancel each other out
because they are in such close proximity to each other and have a common
local temperature.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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Subject: | Bob Archer VOR antenna? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
Two questions
Any significant difference in performance with the antenna installed
parallel to the top of the wing vs the bottom?
I know that crossing over the Bob Archer wingtip VOR antenna with the
strobe and position light wires must be done in the Bob Archer
defined way (he provides tie downs in the appropriate
locations). But if the wires cross in front of the antenna by 6 to
12 inches is that OK?
Thanks
Matthew M. Jurotich
e-mail mail to: <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
phone : 301-286-5919
Message 8
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Subject: | source for molex connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com
Thx
rumen
do not archive
_____________________Original message __________________________
(received from Bruce Gray; Date: 06:29 AM 1/26/2006
-0500)
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
http://www.steinair.com/
Bruce
www.glasair.org
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: EGT/CHT thermocouple cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>From an earlier post, I understood that this would not be applicable to a firewall
situation as the temperatures are different on either side of the firewall.
Somebody keep me honest here........
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>Sent: Jan 26, 2006 7:59 AM
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: EGT/CHT thermocouple cable
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
>At 09:45 PM 1/25/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
>>
>>I didn't see that; thanks for pointing it out.
>>
>>Don't I recall from somewhere that it's okay to use, say, crimp-on molex
>>pins on the appropriate extension wires, as long as a certain symmetry of
>>junctions in the cable run is maintained? I think that's how i extended
>>by GRT probe wires ages ago, and it _seems_ to work okay.
>
> As long as your T/C wires are 20 or 22AWG, you can run them through
> ordinary D-sub connectors . . . SOLID MACHINED pins preferred. While
> the pins for a D-sub are NOT identical to the thermocouple wires being
> joined, they insert a pair of equal but opposing parasitic thermocouples
> into both leadwires. The parasitic thermocouples cancel each other out
> because they are in such close proximity to each other and have a common
> local temperature.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
I could not get the listed resistors at Digikey and went to Frys, was not
able to get the 1% but was able to get some 2% and 5 %, also on the
BC1.62KZCT could only get a 1.6. I am having problems getting up to the
voltage stated in the troubleshooting area. Is it the tolerance of the
resistors or that 1.62 one maybe? I have checked all my solder joints and
went completely through the troubleshooting guide Bob has with the parts
list. Any help is appreciated.
Ron Triano
Message 11
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Subject: | Battery Charging Question - Fight or Switch? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark R Steitle" <mark.steitle@austin.utexas.edu>
Bob,
Following an earlier Aero-Electric discussion on battery chargers, I
purchased a Schumacher SC-1200A charger to use in maintaining the
Odyssey PC-680 batteries in my airplane. The charger has settings for
flooded-cell, deep-cycle, and AGM/Gel-cell batteries. I've been using
the AGM/Gel-cell setting. I read today in the document titled Charging
Odyssey Drycell Batteries (www.odysseybatteries.com/charging.htm) where
it states, "In general, do not use either the gel cell or maintenance
free setting, if provided on your charger. Choose the deep cycle
option, should there be one on your charger." So, now I'm confused as
to which to use. My PC-680 doesn't appear to have been harmed by
charging on the AGM/Gel-cell setting, but now I'm confused. Should I
switch to the deep-cycle setting, or continue as before?
Mark
Lancari ES
Austin, TX
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: EGT/CHT thermocouple cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Tvedte" <JohnT@comp-sol.com>
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Message 13
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Subject: | EGT/CHT thermocouple cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
John,
You mustr have a bad ground or your RF interference is something else!!!
Chuck Jensen
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Tvedte
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 10:05 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: EGT/CHT thermocouple cable
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Tvedte"
<JohnT@comp-sol.com>
Qm9iLA0KIA0KVGhlIGNhYmxlIHJlZmVyZW5jZWQgaXMgbm90IFRlZnplbCBpbnN1bGF0ZWQu
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Message 14
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Subject: | Re: 3 conductor AWG18 cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
Michle Delsol wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mich=E8le_Delsol?= <michele.delsol@microsigma.fr>
>
> I should have been a little more specific - my question related to feeding
> the power supply and synching three strobes together. Since the current is
> not steady I prefer to shield the feed lines - 4 amps on 18awg should be OK.
> On the strobe light side, since we are dealing with 400V or so, amperage is
> very low and transient so 22awg should be OK.
Actually, amperage is very high on the HV side because you are
discharging a capacitor through a virtual dead short (the ionized gas in
the flash tube). The pulse is fairly short so the average current is low
but the peak is quite high. Use a heavier wire.
Also, shielding won't help you much. The high-current pulse will produce
one heck of a magnetic field on the wire which the non-magnetic
shielding won't do anything to stop. The best thing to do is to make
sure that the return (ground) wire is parallel to and closely bound to
the HV wire. The magnetic fields will be equal and opposite and will
cancel each other out. That is all the shielding you need.
As for the synchronization between the power supplies, those pulses are
low-voltage, low-current signals between the power supply boxes. You
don't really need a heavy wire there.
--
Brian Lloyd 2243 Cattle Dr.
brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: EGT/CHT thermocouple cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Tvedte" <JohnT@comp-sol.com>
Bob,
The cable referenced is not Tefzel insulated. The have Teflon PFA (Perfluoroalkoxy)
or FEP (Fluorinated Ethylene Propylene). Tefzel is ETFE (Ethylne TriFluoroEthylene).
Also - note that the only stranded wire listed in this reference is PVC.
I called Omega and talked with John Bach (I think he is in pre-sales support) and he said they don't make thermocouple wire with Tefzel insulation. I could custom order if 25K ft or more was needed :o). He's a nice guy and suggested: http://www.omega.com/pptst/TFIR_CH_CI_CC_CY_AL.html It's not stranded either.
McMasterr-Carr on Pg 527 per Alan K. Adamson's post.... does sell FEP stranded
type J & K in 20awg. I don't know if it's twisted however.
I'll contact Omega again - appreciate any other insights.
BTW - Omega sells Sub-D type thermocouple alloy pins and sockets. http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=SM_SUB-D_CONN&Nav=temg12
John
Time: 01:46:05 PM PST US
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: EGT/CHT thermocouple cable
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 03:29 PM 1/24/2006 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Tvedte" <JohnT@comp-sol.com>
>
>Does anyone know of a source for twisted pair stranded non sheathed J &
>K thermocouple cable (extension grade is fine)- with tefzel insulation?
>Also what is being used to provide connect/disconnect capability?
http://www.omega.com/pptst/EXGG_JX_WIRE.html
http://www.omega.com/pptst/EXGG_KX_WIRE.html
http://www.omega.com/pptst/GMP.html
Bob . . .
Message 16
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|
Subject: | Bob Archer VOR antenna? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
You will have a greater chance of airframe shadowing if you mount it in the top
of the wingtip. Basically hold it wherever you plan to mount it and look around
the airframe. If your line of site includes metals or carbon fiber, expect
reduced signal strength and reduced range because of it.
Bob is pretty adamant about routing the wires as he shows regardless. However
I believe Dan Checkoway and others have ignored that when it was a ways away
and he reports no problems.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Jurotich
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 7:10 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Bob Archer VOR antenna?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich
--> <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
Two questions
Any significant difference in performance with the antenna installed parallel to
the top of the wing vs the bottom?
I know that crossing over the Bob Archer wingtip VOR antenna with the strobe and
position light wires must be done in the Bob Archer defined way (he provides
tie downs in the appropriate locations). But if the wires cross in front of
the antenna by 6 to
12 inches is that OK?
Thanks
Matthew M. Jurotich
e-mail mail to: <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
phone : 301-286-5919
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Bob Archer VOR antenna? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
It wasn't that I ignored it. It's that the instructions really apply to the
OLDER style wing tips where the strobes mount on the exterior, further aft.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (793 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 8:53 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Bob Archer VOR antenna?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> You will have a greater chance of airframe shadowing if you mount it in
> the top of the wingtip. Basically hold it wherever you plan to mount it
> and look around the airframe. If your line of site includes metals or
> carbon fiber, expect reduced signal strength and reduced range because of
> it.
>
> Bob is pretty adamant about routing the wires as he shows regardless.
> However I believe Dan Checkoway and others have ignored that when it was a
> ways away and he reports no problems.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Fuselage
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt
> Jurotich
> Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 7:10 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Bob Archer VOR antenna?
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich
> --> <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
>
> Two questions
>
> Any significant difference in performance with the antenna installed
> parallel to the top of the wing vs the bottom?
> I know that crossing over the Bob Archer wingtip VOR antenna with the
> strobe and position light wires must be done in the Bob Archer defined way
> (he provides tie downs in the appropriate locations). But if the wires
> cross in front of the antenna by 6 to
> 12 inches is that OK?
>
> Thanks
>
> Matthew M. Jurotich
>
> e-mail mail to: <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
> phone : 301-286-5919
>
>
>
Message 18
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|
Subject: | Re: 3 conductor AWG18 cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> Also, shielding won't help you much. The high-current pulse will produce
> one heck of a magnetic field on the wire which the non-magnetic
> shielding won't do anything to stop. The best thing to do is to make
> sure that the return (ground) wire is parallel to and closely bound to
> the HV wire. The magnetic fields will be equal and opposite and will
> cancel each other out. That is all the shielding you need.
Great info. The strobe wires I have, which came with the strobe
kit, have three wires, and the whole bundle is shielded. I imagine
one wire is a ground, and one of the other two must be the HV wire,
but any idea what the third would be? Just curious.
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 19
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|
Subject: | Why use starter contactor? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob Lee" <bob@flyboybob.com>
I am using Z-13/8 as a guide to wiring my electrical system and I do not
understand why it specifies a starter contactor. The starter already has
one so it looks like increased part count which equals reduced relaibility.
I looked in the Connection and all I find is "Typical Starter Contactor
Wiring" on page 11-21. There is no explanation of what function the starter
contactor serves. The archives only gives three hits on "starter contactor"
and they do not answer the question: What is the function of the starter
contacter listed in Z-13/8?
Regards,
Bob Lee
KR-2 N52BL
92% done only 53% to go!
Message 20
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|
Subject: | Bob Archer VOR antenna? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Ok, so ignored wasn't a good choice of a word for you. :-) Anyway, I beg to
differ on the "old style" as Bob still insists on it even with the RV-10 where
you could separate the two by more than a foot.
It happened to be convenient for me to run them across so I did it anyway but
I'm with you that it probably wouldn't make a difference with enough separation.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Bob Archer VOR antenna?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
--> <dan@rvproject.com>
It wasn't that I ignored it. It's that the instructions really apply to the OLDER
style wing tips where the strobes mount on the exterior, further aft.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (793 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 8:53 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Bob Archer VOR antenna?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> You will have a greater chance of airframe shadowing if you mount it in
> the top of the wingtip. Basically hold it wherever you plan to mount it
> and look around the airframe. If your line of site includes metals or
> carbon fiber, expect reduced signal strength and reduced range because of
> it.
>
> Bob is pretty adamant about routing the wires as he shows regardless.
> However I believe Dan Checkoway and others have ignored that when it was a
> ways away and he reports no problems.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Fuselage
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt
> Jurotich
> Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 7:10 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Bob Archer VOR antenna?
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich
> --> <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
>
> Two questions
>
> Any significant difference in performance with the antenna installed
> parallel to the top of the wing vs the bottom?
> I know that crossing over the Bob Archer wingtip VOR antenna with the
> strobe and position light wires must be done in the Bob Archer defined way
> (he provides tie downs in the appropriate locations). But if the wires
> cross in front of the antenna by 6 to
> 12 inches is that OK?
>
> Thanks
>
> Matthew M. Jurotich
>
> e-mail mail to: <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
> phone : 301-286-5919
>
>
Message 21
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|
Subject: | Re: EGT/CHT thermocouple cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 09:22 AM 1/26/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
><recapen@earthlink.net>
>
> >From an earlier post, I understood that this would not be applicable to
> a firewall situation as the temperatures are different on either side of
> the firewall.
>Somebody keep me honest here...
We're talking apples and oranges here.
(1) D-subs can be a useful means for providing
convenience disconnects in thermocouple lines.
(2) D-subs are not suitable for firewall penetrations.
You can use a d-sub either forward or aft of
a protected penetration, just don't depend on
it for BOTH convenience disconnect AND
protected penetration.
Bob . . .
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
Message 22
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|
Subject: | Re: EGT/CHT thermocouple cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Thanks - I knew there was a reason I wasn't gonna do it that way........
Worth the price of my list donation once again........
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>Sent: Jan 26, 2006 1:36 PM
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: EGT/CHT thermocouple cable
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
>At 09:22 AM 1/26/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
>><recapen@earthlink.net>
>>
>> >From an earlier post, I understood that this would not be applicable to
>> a firewall situation as the temperatures are different on either side of
>> the firewall.
>
>
>>Somebody keep me honest here...
>
>
> We're talking apples and oranges here.
>
> (1) D-subs can be a useful means for providing
> convenience disconnects in thermocouple lines.
>
> (2) D-subs are not suitable for firewall penetrations.
> You can use a d-sub either forward or aft of
> a protected penetration, just don't depend on
> it for BOTH convenience disconnect AND
> protected penetration.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> < What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
> < the authority which determines whether there can be >
> < debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
> < scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
> < with experiment. >
> < --Lawrence M. Krauss >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
Subject: | Re: Why use starter contactor? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
Bob: its function is to arouse your curiosity so that you'd eventually discover
Z-22, and eliminate the extra contactor from your plans; at least, that's what
it did for me <g>. Not all starters have these, just the PM types like Sky-Tec.
-Bill B
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Lee <bob@flyboybob.com>
Sent: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 13:32:22 -0500
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Why use starter contactor?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob Lee" <bob@flyboybob.com>
I am using Z-13/8 as a guide to wiring my electrical system and I do not
understand why it specifies a starter contactor. The starter already has
one so it looks like increased part count which equals reduced relaibility.
I looked in the Connection and all I find is "Typical Starter Contactor
Wiring" on page 11-21. There is no explanation of what function the starter
contactor serves. The archives only gives three hits on "starter contactor"
and they do not answer the question: What is the function of the starter
contacter listed in Z-13/8?
Regards,
Bob Lee
KR-2 N52BL
92% done only 53% to go!
Message 24
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|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 06:47 AM 1/26/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
>
>
>I could not get the listed resistors at Digikey and went to Frys, was not
>able to get the 1% but was able to get some 2% and 5 %, also on the
>BC1.62KZCT could only get a 1.6. I am having problems getting up to the
>voltage stated in the troubleshooting area. Is it the tolerance of the
>resistors or that 1.62 one maybe? I have checked all my solder joints and
>went completely through the troubleshooting guide Bob has with the parts
>list. Any help is appreciated.
Seems Digikey has shuffled the deck again on catalog numbers.
The recommended parts list has been updated to reflect current
offerings at:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Crowbar_OV_Protection/Crowbar_E.pdf
It's not possible to troubleshoot your project without seeing
it. If you'll mail it to me with some cash for return postage,
I'll look it over.
6936 Bainbridge Road
Wichita, KS 67226-1008
Bob . . .
Message 25
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|
Subject: | Re: Why use starter contactor? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 01:32 PM 1/26/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob Lee" <bob@flyboybob.com>
>
>I am using Z-13/8 as a guide to wiring my electrical system and I do not
>understand why it specifies a starter contactor. The starter already has
>one so it looks like increased part count which equals reduced relaibility.
>I looked in the Connection and all I find is "Typical Starter Contactor
>Wiring" on page 11-21. There is no explanation of what function the starter
>contactor serves. The archives only gives three hits on "starter contactor"
>and they do not answer the question: What is the function of the starter
>contacter listed in Z-13/8?
See http://aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf
Bob . . .
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
Message 26
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|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mitchell Goodrich" <mgoodrich@tampabay.rr.com>
Hello Bob,
I haven't seen this addressed anywhere and thought you would have
some input.
I have 2 different instruments that require a shunt to read
amperage. Is there a way to use 1 shunt for 2 instruments?
Mitchell
813-356-9758
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: OV Module
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 06:47 AM 1/26/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
>
>
>I could not get the listed resistors at Digikey and went to Frys, was
not
>able to get the 1% but was able to get some 2% and 5 %, also on the
>BC1.62KZCT could only get a 1.6. I am having problems getting up to the
>voltage stated in the troubleshooting area. Is it the tolerance of the
>resistors or that 1.62 one maybe? I have checked all my solder joints
and
>went completely through the troubleshooting guide Bob has with the
parts
>list. Any help is appreciated.
Seems Digikey has shuffled the deck again on catalog numbers.
The recommended parts list has been updated to reflect current
offerings at:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Crowbar_OV_Protection/Crowbar_E.pdf
It's not possible to troubleshoot your project without seeing
it. If you'll mail it to me with some cash for return postage,
I'll look it over.
6936 Bainbridge Road
Wichita, KS 67226-1008
Bob . . .
Message 27
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|
Subject: | Re: Why use starter contactor? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
I'm planning to buffer my starter switch, wired per Z-22, through a 30A/40A peak-rated
Bosch-style automotive relay; light, cheap (under $2), readily available,
supports .25" fast-on terminal technology. Any real downside to that?
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Sent: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 13:10:21 -0600
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Why use starter contactor?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 01:32 PM 1/26/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob Lee" <bob@flyboybob.com>
>
>I am using Z-13/8 as a guide to wiring my electrical system and I do not
>understand why it specifies a starter contactor. The starter already has
>one so it looks like increased part count which equals reduced relaibility.
>I looked in the Connection and all I find is "Typical Starter Contactor
>Wiring" on page 11-21. There is no explanation of what function the starter
>contactor serves. The archives only gives three hits on "starter contactor"
>and they do not answer the question: What is the function of the starter
>contacter listed in Z-13/8?
See http://aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf
Bob . . .
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
Message 28
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|
Subject: | Re: source for Molex connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Nancy Ghertner <nghertner@verizon.net>
On 1/26/06 6:02 AM, "rd2@evenlink.com" <rd2@evenlink.com> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com
>
> Can anyone point me to sources for molex connectors? I need several small
> ones male-female (2, 3, 4 pin) but neither R-Shack nor local auto stores
> seem to have what I need.
>
> Rumen
Allied Electronics www.Alliedelec.com.
Lory Ghertner
Message 29
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|
Subject: | Re: Why use starter contactor? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 03:50 PM 1/26/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
>
>I'm planning to buffer my starter switch, wired per Z-22, through a
>30A/40A peak-rated Bosch-style automotive relay; light, cheap (under $2),
>readily available, supports .25" fast-on terminal technology. Any real
>downside to that?
>
>-Bill
>
That will work too . . .
Bob . . .
Message 30
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|
Subject: | Re: 3 conductor AWG18 cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 06:53 PM 1/26/2006 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
><mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> > Also, shielding won't help you much. The high-current pulse will produce
> > one heck of a magnetic field on the wire which the non-magnetic
> > shielding won't do anything to stop. The best thing to do is to make
> > sure that the return (ground) wire is parallel to and closely bound to
> > the HV wire. The magnetic fields will be equal and opposite and will
> > cancel each other out. That is all the shielding you need.
>
>Great info. The strobe wires I have, which came with the strobe
>kit, have three wires, and the whole bundle is shielded. I imagine
>one wire is a ground, and one of the other two must be the HV wire,
>but any idea what the third would be? Just curious.
Ground, HV out to tube, trigger voltage to fire it.
See Figure 12-4 in the 'Connection . . .
Bob . . .
Message 31
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 02:43 PM 1/26/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mitchell Goodrich"
><mgoodrich@tampabay.rr.com>
>
>Hello Bob,
>
>I haven't seen this addressed anywhere and thought you would have
>some input.
>I have 2 different instruments that require a shunt to read
>amperage. Is there a way to use 1 shunt for 2 instruments?
>
>Mitchell
>
>813-356-9758
If they're identical instruments in that the scale
factor for full scale readings are the same . . . usually
50 millivolts.
Bob . . .
Message 32
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Subject: | 3 conductor AWG18 cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Denton" <bdenton@bdenton.com>
Don't know if it's relevant, but Whelen now sells combined
strobe/nav/position lights, run off a single, typically fuselage-mounted,
strobe controller. They just use one shielded cable out to the wing tips,
with conductors for both the strobes and the nav/position lights.
Is it possible that you have some of that cable?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: 3 conductor AWG18 cable
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 06:53 PM 1/26/2006 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
><mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> > Also, shielding won't help you much. The high-current pulse will produce
> > one heck of a magnetic field on the wire which the non-magnetic
> > shielding won't do anything to stop. The best thing to do is to make
> > sure that the return (ground) wire is parallel to and closely bound to
> > the HV wire. The magnetic fields will be equal and opposite and will
> > cancel each other out. That is all the shielding you need.
>
>Great info. The strobe wires I have, which came with the strobe
>kit, have three wires, and the whole bundle is shielded. I imagine
>one wire is a ground, and one of the other two must be the HV wire,
>but any idea what the third would be? Just curious.
Ground, HV out to tube, trigger voltage to fire it.
See Figure 12-4 in the 'Connection . . .
Bob . . .
Message 33
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Subject: | Re: Why use starter contactor? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
I considered that and then went and bought a 25 amp marine key switch.
I wondered whether such a relay would actually increase the chance of
the starter sticking on?? Most of them don't seem very robust for a 40
amp rating and inductive loads?? Ken
sportav8r@aol.com wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
>
>I'm planning to buffer my starter switch, wired per Z-22, through a 30A/40A peak-rated
Bosch-style automotive relay; light, cheap (under $2), readily available,
supports .25" fast-on terminal technology. Any real downside to that?
>
>-Bill
>
>
Message 34
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
At 06:37 PM 1/23/2006, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
>At 03:13 PM 1/23/2006 -0700, you wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark R. Supinski"
> ><mark.supinski@gmail.com>
> >
> >Can anyone tell me where to track down the Honeywell microswitch Bob calls
> >out in one of the wigwag drawings? I can't seem to find anyone who actually
> >stocks it.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Mark Supinski
>
> It's a rarely used switch, expensive and probably not stocked many
> places. Allied would order it for you:
>
>http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=642-0197&SEARCH=4tl1%2D10&ID=&DESC=4TL1%2D10
>
> Do a Google search on 4tl1-10. A number of parts suppliers
> claim to have them in stock.
>
>
> Bob . . .
Bob & Mark,
Could a Carling Technologies I series 4 pole toggle switch be substituted
here? They don't offer the locking toggle. I ordered an IM251-78 switch for
my 2 axis electric trim control. If memory serves me, Digikey charged me
about a third of the above mentioned Honeywell switch.
See
http://toggle-switches.carlingtech.com/heavy-duty-toggle_switch__52.asp
http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/s_i.pdf
Charlie Kuss
Message 35
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Subject: | 3 conductor AWG18 cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Whelen literature calls it , Anode, Cathode, and Trigger.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 6:03 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: 3 conductor AWG18 cable
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 06:53 PM 1/26/2006 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
><mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> > Also, shielding won't help you much. The high-current pulse will produce
> > one heck of a magnetic field on the wire which the non-magnetic
> > shielding won't do anything to stop. The best thing to do is to make
> > sure that the return (ground) wire is parallel to and closely bound to
> > the HV wire. The magnetic fields will be equal and opposite and will
> > cancel each other out. That is all the shielding you need.
>
>Great info. The strobe wires I have, which came with the strobe
>kit, have three wires, and the whole bundle is shielded. I imagine
>one wire is a ground, and one of the other two must be the HV wire,
>but any idea what the third would be? Just curious.
Ground, HV out to tube, trigger voltage to fire it.
See Figure 12-4 in the 'Connection . . .
Bob . . .
Message 36
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Subject: | Re: Battery Charging Question - Fight or Switch? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
Mark R Steitle wrote:
> Following an earlier Aero-Electric discussion on battery chargers, I
> purchased a Schumacher SC-1200A charger to use in maintaining the
> Odyssey PC-680 batteries in my airplane. The charger has settings for
> flooded-cell, deep-cycle, and AGM/Gel-cell batteries. I've been using
> the AGM/Gel-cell setting. I read today in the document titled Charging
> Odyssey Drycell Batteries (www.odysseybatteries.com/charging.htm) where
> it states, "In general, do not use either the gel cell or maintenance
> free setting, if provided on your charger. Choose the deep cycle
> option, should there be one on your charger." So, now I'm confused as
> to which to use. My PC-680 doesn't appear to have been harmed by
> charging on the AGM/Gel-cell setting, but now I'm confused. Should I
> switch to the deep-cycle setting, or continue as before?
The charging voltages for AGM and gel-cells are quite different. If the
manufacturer has put an AGM/gel setting it means that the manufacturer
does not understand the difference between AGM and gel batteries.
My guess is that the deep-cycle is probably closer as the charging
voltages that AGM batteries like are quite close to the charging
voltages needed for properly charging deep-cycle flooded-cell batteries.
Ballpark charging voltages (70F-80F, (21C-27C):
AGM/deep-cycle Gel-cell
Charge 14.3V 13.7V
Float 13.4V 13.4V
It is interesting to note that the charge and float voltages for
gel-cells are close enough together that you can actually get away with
one setting for charge and float with gel-cells. 13.6V would probably
work well for both charge and float.
--
Brian Lloyd 2243 Cattle Dr.
brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Message 37
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Subject: | Re: 3 conductor AWG18 cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
Mickey Coggins wrote:
> Great info. The strobe wires I have, which came with the strobe
> kit, have three wires, and the whole bundle is shielded. I imagine
> one wire is a ground, and one of the other two must be the HV wire,
> but any idea what the third would be? Just curious.
There is ground, B+ (about 400V), and trigger. The trigger is a very low
current but high voltage (about 3000V) to give the xenon in the tube a
"kick" to start it ionizing. Once that happens the capacitor on the
+400V line discharges through the tube until there is (virtually)
nothing left in the capacitor. At that point the tube winks out and the
capacitor charges again. When it comes time for the flashtube to light
off again, the power supply sends out the 3000V pulse on the trigger
line and the cycle starts all over again.
--
Brian Lloyd 2243 Cattle Dr.
brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Message 38
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Subject: | Re: source for molex connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
Try http://www.steinair.com/connectors.htm they'll be there before you know
it!
Good Luck,
Bob
On 1/26/06, rd2@evenlink.com <rd2@evenlink.com> wrote:
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com
>
> Can anyone point me to sources for molex connectors? I need several small
> ones male-female (2, 3, 4 pin) but neither R-Shack nor local auto stores
> seem to have what I need.
>
> Rumen
>
>
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