Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:34 AM - Re: Automotive Strobes (Mark & Lisa)
2. 04:45 AM - Re: switch rating (Harley)
3. 05:19 AM - Re: switch rating (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 06:44 AM - Re: Why use starter contactor (fire) ()
5. 07:41 AM - Re: Re: Why use starter contactor (fire) (Mickey Coggins)
6. 07:52 AM - Re: Re: Why use starter contactor (fire) (Gilles Thesee)
7. 08:01 AM - Re: switch rating (Jim Stone)
8. 08:18 AM - helmet (was: Why use starter contactor (fire)) (Brian Lloyd)
9. 11:06 AM - Re: helmet (was: Why use starter contactor (fire)) (Mickey Coggins)
10. 11:38 AM - Re: helmet (was: Why use starter contactor (fire)) (Terry Watson)
11. 11:53 AM - Re: helmet (was: Why use starter contactor (fire)) (Brian Lloyd)
12. 12:54 PM - Re: Re: Why use starter contactor (fire) (Fergus Kyle)
13. 02:24 PM - Ok, so here's experimentation :) (Alan K. Adamson)
14. 02:25 PM - helmet issues (David Carter)
15. 02:44 PM - GPS Antenna (PeterHunt1@AOL.COM)
16. 04:22 PM - Re: helmet issues (Jim Stone)
17. 04:54 PM - OV Module (Ron)
18. 06:57 PM - Re: helmet issues (Richard Riley)
19. 07:24 PM - Re: helmet issues (Jim Stone)
20. 08:55 PM - Re: helmet issues (Richard Riley)
21. 09:32 PM - Re: GPS Antenna (Bob C.)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Automotive Strobes |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark & Lisa" <marknlisa@hometel.com>
Try www.gs-air.com
They have a self-contained strobe/position light assembly that has nearly
the same footprint as the Whelen counterpart. Prices aren't bad either.
Mark & Lisa Sletten
Legacy FG N828LM
http://www.legacyfgbuilder.com
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: switch rating |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Harley <harley@agelesswings.com>
Morning, Jim...
>>My switches have a rating of 15 amps at 250vac. So do I have a 7amp
switch or a 30 amp swithch if used in my 14vdc airplane.<<
You have a 15 amp switch! In fact, it is also a 14 amp or a 13 amp or a
5 amp or a 1 amp switch at anything less than 250 volts.
The ratings listed on a switch are the MAXIMUM use for that unit. If
you want to use a smaller voltage, fine...it is still capable of
handling 15 amps. You would want to use a smaller rated switch if you
wanted to save money or weight or size.
A similar example is fuses. Say that a fuse for your auto or aircraft
is rated for 15 amps and 32 volts. Just because you use it on a 28 volts
system, or a 14 volt system doesn't change it's amperage rating. It'll
still trip at or about 15 amps.
It's been awhile since I taught electronics, but there is a bit more to
it all than that. But basically you won't run into any trouble if you
treat the ratings on switches as MAXIMUMS, not REQUIRED.
Harley Dixon
Jim Stone wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
>
>Can someone educate me on switch ratings?
>I just red Bob's article on the subject and I have the following question.
>In his article he states that one can use the same amp rating that is written
on the side of the switch for 115vac in our 14vdc airplanes. My switches have
a rating of 15 amps at 250vac. So do I have a 7amp switch or a 30 amp swithch
if used in my 14vdc airplane.
>The switch btw is an avionics switch in the normal feed wire to the E-bus and
downstream of the diode. My E bus is essentially my avionics bus minus one radio
and has 10 items on it. I'm concerned the switch will be overloaded and perhaps
I should add a contactor or the s704-1 relay from B+C.
>Any thoughts?
>Thanks,
>Jim
>Harmon Rocket II
>95% wired
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: switch rating |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 11:21 PM 1/27/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
>
>Can someone educate me on switch ratings?
>I just red Bob's article on the subject and I have the following question.
>In his article he states that one can use the same amp rating that is
>written on the side of the switch for 115vac in our 14vdc airplanes. My
>switches have a rating of 15 amps at 250vac. So do I have a 7amp switch
>or a 30 amp swithch if used in my 14vdc airplane.
>The switch btw is an avionics switch in the normal feed wire to the E-bus
>and downstream of the diode. My E bus is essentially my avionics bus
>minus one radio and has 10 items on it. I'm concerned the switch will be
>overloaded and perhaps I should add a contactor or the s704-1 relay from B+C.
Keep in mind that switch ratings are based on electrical
and mechanical stresses over tens of thousands of cycles.
Further, the ratings speak to currents that the switch must
make and break along with the nature of the load's dynamic
responses (resistive, inductive, lamp loads, etc).
The catalog ratings are strongly influenced by environmental
and utilization numbers. I've often observed that more
switches in small aircraft die for LACK OF USE than for
OVERSTRESSED USE.
Generally speaking, ANY full sized toggle switch you
pick up with a rating of 7A or more at any AC voltage
will probably run the lifetime of your airplane in ANY
location in the system up to and including boss-hog
pitot heaters with 30A inrush and 10A running currents
as long as they're regularly called upon to switch those
loads. I.e, cycle every switch, every flight cycle.
10 years from now at one flight/day your switches will
have less than 4,000 cycles on them.
If your e-bus is wired per a Z-figure, it has TWO
independent power pathways (a design goal). So failure
of any one pathway does not generate an 'emergency'.
If the AeroElectric Connection has any agenda, it's to
plant and nurture the seeds of an idea: "No single failure
of any component should be more than a maintenance event."
This includes ANY switch on the panel.
I'll suggest the concerns you cited above are overblown.
The reason one might consider adding the relay at the
battery bus for larger e-bus loads (greater than 5A) . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/E-BusFatFeed.gif
. . . is to create a mini-battery contactor AT THE BATTERY
bus to account for the fact that the always hot feeder
is protected at greater than 5A. Such feeders are worthy
of disconnection AT THE BUS instead of running the wire
all the way to the panel. This is a crash safety convention
borrowed from the TC aircraft world and has nothing to do with the
RATINGS of the switch. One could run a 15A e-bus alternate
feed through a 7A rated toggle switch with very little
concern for service life and zero concern for failure.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Why use starter contactor (fire) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>From: sportav8r@aol.com wrote
>
>I don't think the hot wire to the starter is to worry about, since it is
>controllable via the battery contactor in event of smelling smoke... not
>perfect protection but at least control.
>
>-Bill B
Good point, I agree. I stated:
"The only down side is that 3-4 foot length of 2-4 AWG is hot all the time
the master is on".
If the master is off before impact it's a moot point, but light airplanes are
notoriously not cash worthy. The steel tube frame is best, aluminum
semi- monoquoque structure is OK, but as a RV builder the fuselage is
not that robust. However the beauty of the RV is integral wing tanks
outside the cockpit and slow stall. Fiberglass / composites, are one of
the worst. It does not deform or yield to absorb energy. It strains and than
ruptures like an egg. As far as fire any plane that has fuel in the cockpit
is at risk of being a future weenie roast.
>Dave Morris WROTE:
>
>This happened to a friend of mine who would have walked away from a
>crash if it had not been for that one little spark.
Your comments about skin graph are quite graphic. Sorry to hear about
your friend but I don't think the fat starter cable would have made a
difference. He had fuel and a spark, what would another spark have
mattered. Besides as Bob, sportav8 pointed out, the master relay will
eliminate the issue all together if you turn it off, but it does not matter, if
you are comfortable with the FW contactor than put one on. I am just no
convinced it will eliminate the chance of fire significantly. If you look at
firewalls of RV's with big bare copper straps and fuse blocks all cluster
just a foot or so away from the gascolator does not give me warm
fuzziness. I guess the best defense is practice you emergency forced
landing procedures and remember to turn the fuel and electrics off before
the ground smite ye mightily.
>What's a few bucks, guys? My experience with this friend of mine has made
>me a believer in steel braided fuel hose, Earl's fittings, Nomex clothing,
>and a lot of other things that may cost a few dollars extra, but could
>avoid years of skin graft surgery.
I would suggest the heavy duty integral fire sleeve (brown) fuel lines from
StratoFlex or Aeroequip. I don't think Earls' has that? Also an aerospace
quality hose, if you are worried about fuel leaks and fire, should be made by
an approved shop. It cost a lot more than Earl's, and as you say what's a
few extra dollars. Also Nomex and helmets and gloves are all good stuff.
Bird strikes are deadly in fast homebuilts with thin plexiglass windows. The
window on the 757 I fly has multi-panes and very thick. The 250 kts limit
below 10,000 feet is in part for bird strike. I had one and it shattered the
windscreen. It happened at 9,000 feet! It held. So I expect to see you with
a helmet and eye protection and a nomex flight suite going fast Dave.
George
---------------------------------
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Why use starter contactor (fire) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> Bird strikes are deadly in fast homebuilts with thin plexiglass windows.
> ... So I expect to see you with
> a helmet and eye protection and a nomex flight suite going fast Dave.
Although I know it would be a good idea, I just can't see
myself flying around with a helmet in an RV without getting
paid. However, speaking of eye protection, can anyone
recommend some good eye protection in case of a bird strike?
In keeping with the spirit of this list, they can be
wired to the airplane electric system, battery operated,
or unpowered. :)
Thanks!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Why use starter contactor (fire) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Mickey Coggins a crit :
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>
>
>>Bird strikes are deadly in fast homebuilts with thin plexiglass windows.
>>... So I expect to see you with
>>a helmet and eye protection and a nomex flight suite going fast Dave.
>>
>>
>
>
>Although I know it would be a good idea, I just can't see
>myself flying around with a helmet in an RV without getting
>paid. However, speaking of eye protection, can anyone
>recommend some good eye protection in case of a bird strike?
>
>
Hi all,
Fighter pilots always fly with visor down.
My friends warbird pilots fly with nomex suits and crash helmets.
Regards,
Gilles Thesee
Grenoble, France
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: switch rating |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
Good explanation
Thanks Harley .
Jim
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harley" <harley@AgelessWings.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 7:43 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: switch rating
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Harley <harley@agelesswings.com>
>
> Morning, Jim...
>
> >>My switches have a rating of 15 amps at 250vac. So do I have a 7amp
> switch or a 30 amp swithch if used in my 14vdc airplane.<<
>
> You have a 15 amp switch! In fact, it is also a 14 amp or a 13 amp or a
> 5 amp or a 1 amp switch at anything less than 250 volts.
>
> The ratings listed on a switch are the MAXIMUM use for that unit. If
> you want to use a smaller voltage, fine...it is still capable of
> handling 15 amps. You would want to use a smaller rated switch if you
> wanted to save money or weight or size.
>
> A similar example is fuses. Say that a fuse for your auto or aircraft
> is rated for 15 amps and 32 volts. Just because you use it on a 28 volts
> system, or a 14 volt system doesn't change it's amperage rating. It'll
> still trip at or about 15 amps.
>
> It's been awhile since I taught electronics, but there is a bit more to
> it all than that. But basically you won't run into any trouble if you
> treat the ratings on switches as MAXIMUMS, not REQUIRED.
>
> Harley Dixon
>
>
> Jim Stone wrote:
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone"
>><jrstone@insightbb.com>
>>
>>Can someone educate me on switch ratings?
>>I just red Bob's article on the subject and I have the following question.
>>In his article he states that one can use the same amp rating that is
>>written on the side of the switch for 115vac in our 14vdc airplanes. My
>>switches have a rating of 15 amps at 250vac. So do I have a 7amp switch
>>or a 30 amp swithch if used in my 14vdc airplane.
>>The switch btw is an avionics switch in the normal feed wire to the E-bus
>>and downstream of the diode. My E bus is essentially my avionics bus
>>minus one radio and has 10 items on it. I'm concerned the switch will be
>>overloaded and perhaps I should add a contactor or the s704-1 relay from
>>B+C.
>>Any thoughts?
>>Thanks,
>>Jim
>>Harmon Rocket II
>>95% wired
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | helmet (was: Why use starter contactor (fire)) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
Mickey Coggins wrote:
> Although I know it would be a good idea, I just can't see
> myself flying around with a helmet in an RV without getting
> paid. However, speaking of eye protection, can anyone
> recommend some good eye protection in case of a bird strike?
I wear a helmet. It provides several useful features:
1. It holds my mic and earspeakers;
2. it provides protection for my noggin from the canopy when someone
else is in the airplane yankin'-'n'-bankin';
3. it provides much better passive hearing protection than a headset;
4. it keeps the sun off my head;
5. it keeps my head warm in winter;
6. the visor provides sun and impact protection for my eyes without
interfering with my peripheral vision;
7. it provides an attach point for an oxygen mask (those of you building
a Harmon Rocket might consider this as your Rocket will work just fine
up at the flight levels where you will get really great fuel efficiency);
8. you can paint stuff on it to look really cool or really stupid
depending on who's looking.
--
Brian Lloyd 2243 Cattle Dr.
brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: helmet (was: Why use starter contactor (fire)) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Brian Lloyd wrote:
> 8. you can paint stuff on it to look really cool or really stupid
> depending on who's looking.
Now you're talkin'! :-) It sounds like you've got a nice
helmet. Which brand/model do you use? I've seen a lot of
nice ones on the web, but I never wanted to buy one without
trying it on. I really can't recall any helmets on sale
at the last few SNFs or OSH, but perhaps I overlooked them.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 10
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Subject: | helmet (was: Why use starter contactor (fire)) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
How do you avoid scratching the canopy with a helmet? I think they use
cloth covers in modern fighters. We don't have much room to spare in an RV.
Terry
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: helmet (was: Why use starter contactor (fire)) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
Mickey Coggins wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Brian Lloyd wrote:
>> 8. you can paint stuff on it to look really cool or really stupid
>> depending on who's looking.
>
> Now you're talkin'! :-) It sounds like you've got a nice
> helmet. Which brand/model do you use? I've seen a lot of
> nice ones on the web, but I never wanted to buy one without
> trying it on. I really can't recall any helmets on sale
> at the last few SNFs or OSH, but perhaps I overlooked them.
I bought mine at Flight Suits, Ltd. (http://www.flightsuits.com/) They
usually have a booth at OSH. I don't know about SnF.
I have an HGU-33 with a single visor. (I wish I had the dual visor.)
The trick is to get Flight Suits to provide the helmet, earspeakers, and
mic wiring. Get the helmet fit-kit from Oregon Aero. Their approach to
the liner and earspeakers is quieter and more comfortable. I can wear my
helmet literally all day long and never feel uncomfortable.
Get the super-duper noise-canceling mic from Sigtronics.
--
Brian Lloyd 2243 Cattle Dr.
brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Message 12
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|
Subject: | Re: Why use starter contactor (fire) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
|
| I would suggest the heavy duty integral fire sleeve (brown) fuel lines
from
| StratoFlex or Aeroequip. I don't think Earls' has that? Also an aerospace
| quality hose, if you are worried about fuel leaks and fire, should be made
by
| an approved shop. It cost a lot more than Earl's, and as you say what's a
| few extra dollars. Also Nomex and helmets and gloves are all good stuff.
| Bird strikes are deadly in fast homebuilts with thin plexiglass windows.
The
| window on the 757 I fly has multi-panes and very thick. The 250 kts limit
| below 10,000 feet is in part for bird strike. I had one and it shattered
the
| windscreen. It happened at 9,000 feet! It held. So I expect to see you
with
| a helmet and eye protection and a nomex flight suite going fast Dave.
George
Also - You turn on the landing lights below ten for the same reason - birds.
Cheers, Ferg
Message 13
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Subject: | Ok, so here's experimentation :) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alan K. Adamson" <aadamson@highrf.com>
Ok, so you want an ethernet based interconnect system in your airplane. Need
to hookup a bunch of "serial" devices to each other.... Here ya go, just put
in a switch and start plugging stuff in ...
http://www.lantronix.com/device-networking/embedded-device-servers/ -
specifically the little teeny xports...
hmm, the possibilities are limitless. BTW, I talked to a friend who found a
deal and got these modules for $7 a piece at qty 50... He's putting them all
over his house, alarm system, phone system, low voltage light controllers,
etc. He says they can also support "custom" code, nifty little buggers.
Alan
Message 14
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|
Cc: "RV-list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter11@sbcglobal.net>
Someone else asked about scratching the canopy:
. . . If visor is down in front of you, then a piece of soft leather or
similar on top of helmet protects canopy.
. . . If visor is up, then it will contact canopy - so, one might want to
put a bit (1 foot square or diameter) of "cling plastic" on canopy above
where your head will be. Lots of folks already have sun barriers above
them, which would protect the plexi.
Brian, my helmet simply has a snap on each side for attaching the elastic
strap on the visor. I can unsnap the clear and snap on the colored visor
when needed. I use the clear most of the time, for bird protection, with
sunglasses underneath when needed, so don't really need the tinted visor.
In combat in 1967 up "north" in Package 6, one day I told myself the visor
was bulletproof - I no longer suffered anxiety rolling in on a heavily
defended tgt. Prior to that I worried a bit about a 37 or 57mm in the face.
Piece of cake after I put on my bullet proof visor. Now the biggest threat
is buzzards, snow geese, and other large "mm" birds. Visor is real
protection in event of a birdstrike, not just make believe.
I just had 3M tinted window film (thin sheet of plastic) on my windows on
the Gulf Coast last summer - makes the windows rather "hurricane proof".
The website tells of a company putting these films on windows of a mobile
home "office" at some petro-chemical plant construction site - 3 days or so
later, there was a big explosion - trailer was blown over on its side but
windows were intact.
. . . I'm going to consider experimenting with that stuff on the front part
of my RV-6 tip-up canopy for bird resistance.
Hey, we are on the "Lectric list" - Sorry for being "off topic". Will Cc:
the RV list.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Lloyd" <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: helmet (was: Why use starter contactor
(fire))
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
>
>
> Mickey Coggins wrote:
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
>> <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>>
>> Brian Lloyd wrote:
>>> 8. you can paint stuff on it to look really cool or really stupid
>>> depending on who's looking.
>>
>> Now you're talkin'! :-) It sounds like you've got a nice
>> helmet. Which brand/model do you use? I've seen a lot of
>> nice ones on the web, but I never wanted to buy one without
>> trying it on. I really can't recall any helmets on sale
>> at the last few SNFs or OSH, but perhaps I overlooked them.
>
> I bought mine at Flight Suits, Ltd. (http://www.flightsuits.com/) They
> usually have a booth at OSH. I don't know about SnF.
>
> I have an HGU-33 with a single visor. (I wish I had the dual visor.)
>
> The trick is to get Flight Suits to provide the helmet, earspeakers, and
> mic wiring. Get the helmet fit-kit from Oregon Aero. Their approach to
> the liner and earspeakers is quieter and more comfortable. I can wear my
> helmet literally all day long and never feel uncomfortable.
>
> Get the super-duper noise-canceling mic from Sigtronics.
>
>
> --
> Brian Lloyd 2243 Cattle Dr.
> brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
> +1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
Message 15
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
I mounted my GPS antenna under Van's fiberglass engine cowl on a little
stand attached to the engine side of the firewall. I even painted the cowl with
a metallic paint. My antenna works GREAT!
Pete in Clearwater
Garmin 530 in an all electric IFR panel
39 hours
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: helmet issues |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
Dave,
Do like Boeing does, they heat the center windscreens of 757 and 767 to
improve bird impact resistance. I can attest to them working, I took a bird
right in the face, or in line with my face, didn't hurt a bit, the bird
wasn't in very good shape though.
A squadron mate of mine took one in the face on a low level Nav in an F-18,
he was so incapacitated that he crashed with no attempted ejection.
I'm with you on the visor thing, there is no better sunscreen and glare
removal.
For those considering a helmet, Flight suits offers active noise canceling
for your helmet. I personally would rather have thousand dollars in a
helmet than a thousand in a set of Bose.
Jim Stone
Harmon Rocket II
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
> <dcarter11@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Someone else asked about scratching the canopy:
> . . . If visor is down in front of you, then a piece of soft leather or
> similar on top of helmet protects canopy.
> . . . If visor is up, then it will contact canopy - so, one might want to
> put a bit (1 foot square or diameter) of "cling plastic" on canopy above
> where your head will be. Lots of folks already have sun barriers above
> them, which would protect the plexi.
>
> Brian, my helmet simply has a snap on each side for attaching the elastic
> strap on the visor. I can unsnap the clear and snap on the colored visor
> when needed. I use the clear most of the time, for bird protection, with
> sunglasses underneath when needed, so don't really need the tinted visor.
>
> In combat in 1967 up "north" in Package 6, one day I told myself the visor
> was bulletproof - I no longer suffered anxiety rolling in on a heavily
> defended tgt. Prior to that I worried a bit about a 37 or 57mm in the
> face.
> Piece of cake after I put on my bullet proof visor. Now the biggest
> threat
> is buzzards, snow geese, and other large "mm" birds. Visor is real
> protection in event of a birdstrike, not just make believe.
>
> I just had 3M tinted window film (thin sheet of plastic) on my windows on
> the Gulf Coast last summer - makes the windows rather "hurricane proof".
> The website tells of a company putting these films on windows of a mobile
> home "office" at some petro-chemical plant construction site - 3 days or
> so
> later, there was a big explosion - trailer was blown over on its side but
> windows were intact.
> . . . I'm going to consider experimenting with that stuff on the front
> part
> of my RV-6 tip-up canopy for bird resistance.
>
> Hey, we are on the "Lectric list" - Sorry for being "off topic". Will
> Cc:
> the RV list.
>
> David Carter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Lloyd" <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 12:51 PM
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: helmet (was: Why use starter contactor
> (fire))
>
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd
>> <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
>>
>>
>>
>> Mickey Coggins wrote:
>>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
>>> <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>>>
>>> Brian Lloyd wrote:
>>>> 8. you can paint stuff on it to look really cool or really stupid
>>>> depending on who's looking.
>>>
>>> Now you're talkin'! :-) It sounds like you've got a nice
>>> helmet. Which brand/model do you use? I've seen a lot of
>>> nice ones on the web, but I never wanted to buy one without
>>> trying it on. I really can't recall any helmets on sale
>>> at the last few SNFs or OSH, but perhaps I overlooked them.
>>
>> I bought mine at Flight Suits, Ltd. (http://www.flightsuits.com/) They
>> usually have a booth at OSH. I don't know about SnF.
>>
>> I have an HGU-33 with a single visor. (I wish I had the dual visor.)
>>
>> The trick is to get Flight Suits to provide the helmet, earspeakers, and
>> mic wiring. Get the helmet fit-kit from Oregon Aero. Their approach to
>> the liner and earspeakers is quieter and more comfortable. I can wear my
>> helmet literally all day long and never feel uncomfortable.
>>
>> Get the super-duper noise-canceling mic from Sigtronics.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Brian Lloyd 2243 Cattle Dr.
>> brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
>> +1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
>
>
>
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
Thanks Bob, for the generous offer to look over my OV module. I checked over
everything one more time and saw I forgot to add the 392 resistor, that was
another one I could not locate. I was able to get a 360 Ohm one and tried
it. Now I can get to the 1870 ohms with R2 turned up, and I am around 57
something on the ground side. Did not go any further with the test. Do you
think I can get to the listed ohms if I find a 392 ohm resistor?
Ron Triano
http://bld01.ipowerweb.com/contentmanagement/websites/rtrianoc/page10.html
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Subject: | Re: helmet issues |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Riley <richard@riley.net>
At 04:17 PM 1/28/2006, Jim Stone wrote:
>For those considering a helmet, Flight suits offers active noise canceling
>for your helmet. I personally would rather have thousand dollars in a
>helmet than a thousand in a set of Bose.
Headsets, Inc., does the same thing for a lot less than FlightSuits.
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: helmet issues |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
I didn't know they did helmet NC.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Riley" <richard@RILEY.NET>
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: helmet issues
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Riley <richard@riley.net>
>
> At 04:17 PM 1/28/2006, Jim Stone wrote:
>
>
>>For those considering a helmet, Flight suits offers active noise canceling
>>for your helmet. I personally would rather have thousand dollars in a
>>helmet than a thousand in a set of Bose.
>
> Headsets, Inc., does the same thing for a lot less than FlightSuits.
>
>
>
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Subject: | Re: helmet issues |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Riley <richard@riley.net>
At 07:22 PM 1/28/2006, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
>
>I didn't know they did helmet NC.
>Jim
http://www.headsetsinc.com/anr_upgrade.htm
$179.
Flightsuits' stuff is very nice, but good golly gosh it's expensive.
Message 21
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
Peter,
Have you attempted to measure the "attenuation factor" if any?
I'm installing a 430 in an all electric IFR Panel in a RV-8.
Thanks,
Bob in Iowa
On 1/28/06, PeterHunt1@aol.com <PeterHunt1@aol.com> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
>
> I mounted my GPS antenna under Van's fiberglass engine cowl on a little
> stand attached to the engine side of the firewall. I even painted the cowl
with
> a metallic paint. My antenna works GREAT!
>
> Pete in Clearwater
> Garmin 530 in an all electric IFR panel
> 39 hours
>
>
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