AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Wed 02/08/06


Total Messages Posted: 9



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 02:08 AM - Inductive Spike from Starter Solenoid (John Totten)
     2. 05:26 AM - Re: ON hold current for Bosch ice-cube relays ()
     3. 06:08 AM - Re: Switch Question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     4. 06:14 AM - Re: Inductive Spike from Starter Solenoid (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     5. 07:06 AM - Re: Switch Question (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
     6. 09:56 AM - Re: Switch Question (Ed Holyoke)
     7. 10:09 AM - Re: Switch Question (Dr. Peter Laurence)
     8. 10:24 AM - Re: Wire sizing. (Bill Dube)
     9. 11:13 AM - Re: Switch Question (Ed Holyoke)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 02:08:51 AM PST US
    From: John Totten <john@totten.com>
    Subject: Inductive Spike from Starter Solenoid
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Totten <john@totten.com> If anyone has a Cessna 185 alternator that goes off line when the start the engine or retract the (amphib) gear - then here is why. Your plane does not comply with ACS SB92-01 and Cessna SEB91-5R1 http://www.caa.is/datadir/bsdata/img/adnotes/93-05-06.pdf The parts needed to comply are available here http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06413.pdf The $7 diode abolishes the starter solenoid inductive spike and starter switch arching that trips the overvoltage relay in the regulator. Most people that face this problem misinterpret the problem as 'Load Dump' cause by drop in the bus voltage from high starter loads. Not so. Disconnect the starter and operate the solenoid alone - same problem. The entire plane from the pilot seat forward is supplied from the firewall solenoid positive terminal so the solenoids inductive spike goes throughout the plane including the panel and the regulator. It burns out not only your avionics (if you don't have an avionics master switch) but also the contacts in your starter switch so you can't ground the mags. Thats why your mag check doesn't drop the rpm - Not good. The fix is a $7 dollar diode. Of the three C185's that I have inspected besides mine - none comply with this SEB. I also put the diode across the solenoid on my hydraulic pump for the Amphib Floats which also threw the alternator off line when the gear operated. So thats not a 'Load Dump' problem either, its an inductive spike. Call ACS at 602 855 8613. Save yourself the cost of that new regulator, alternator, battery and huge mechanic bills for a non-fix.. JohnT


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:26:22 AM PST US
    From: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: ON hold current for Bosch ice-cube relays
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com> I got 140ma/ 85+/- 5 ohms http://www.chiefent.com/products/product_details.asp?id=4 George ---------------------------------


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:08:22 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Switch Question
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 09:07 PM 2/7/2006 -0800, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net> > >Howdy, > >I wish to use two switches to control two batteries as follows: >I want the bottom position to be off. >I want the center position to be battery contactor on and alternator >field on. >I want the top position to be e-bus alternate feed on and alternator >field off. > >Is this doable? What kind of switch do I need. How would I wire it? Would you leave the battery contactor closed while the e-bus alternate feed is closed? Are you sure you want a single device to have this much control over your system's functionality. It becomes a single point of failure for lots of stuff. There's a reason why those functions are separated out into two switches in the Z-figures. Bob . . . < What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that > < the authority which determines whether there can be > < debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of > < scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests > < with experiment. > < --Lawrence M. Krauss >


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:14:51 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Inductive Spike from Starter Solenoid
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> For additional background on this phenonmenon see http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/spikecatcher.pdf Bob . . . At 01:02 AM 2/8/2006 -0900, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Totten <john@totten.com> > > >If anyone has a Cessna 185 alternator that goes off line >when the start the engine or retract the (amphib) gear - >then here is why. Your plane does not comply with ACS >SB92-01 and Cessna SEB91-5R1 > >http://www.caa.is/datadir/bsdata/img/adnotes/93-05-06.pdf > >The parts needed to comply are available here > >http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06413.pdf > >The $7 diode abolishes the starter solenoid inductive spike >and starter switch arching that trips the overvoltage relay >in the regulator. Most people that face this problem >misinterpret the problem as 'Load Dump' cause by drop in >the bus voltage from high starter loads. Not so. Disconnect >the starter and operate the solenoid alone - same problem. > >The entire plane from the pilot seat forward is supplied >from the firewall solenoid positive terminal so the >solenoids inductive spike goes throughout the plane >including the panel and the regulator. It burns out not >only your avionics (if you don't have an avionics master >switch) but also the contacts in your starter switch so you >can't ground the mags. Thats why your mag check doesn't >drop the rpm - Not good. > >The fix is a $7 dollar diode. Of the three C185's that I >have inspected besides mine - none comply with this SEB. > >I also put the diode across the solenoid on my hydraulic >pump for the Amphib Floats which also threw the alternator >off line when the gear operated. So thats not a 'Load Dump' >problem either, its an inductive spike. > >Call ACS at 602 855 8613. Save yourself the cost of that new >regulator, alternator, battery and huge mechanic bills for >a non-fix.. > >JohnT > > >-- > > Bob . . . < What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that > < the authority which determines whether there can be > < debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of > < scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests > < with experiment. > < --Lawrence M. Krauss >


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:06:32 AM PST US
    Subject: Switch Question
    From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com> The only note of caution I would add is that you have a pretty big single point of failure in that one switch...If the switch fails (and they do) what happens to your ability to fly the airplane. In my current single alt, two battery airplane I have no single component common to both electrical systems...Except for the diode that seperates the two...Each battery system then runs one fuel pump and one electronic igniton. Frank -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Holyoke Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 9:08 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switch Question --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" --> <bicyclop@pacbell.net> Howdy, I wish to use two switches to control two batteries as follows: I want the bottom position to be off. I want the center position to be battery contactor on and alternator field on. I want the top position to be e-bus alternate feed on and alternator field off. Is this doable? What kind of switch do I need. How would I wire it? Thanks, Ed Holyoke


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:56:37 AM PST US
    From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
    Subject: Switch Question
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net> Bob, Sorry for not being more clear. My wife was calling me and I hurried to complete and send without first proofreading. I do want to turn off the contactor when I close the alternate feed. Since I will have two batteries, each with the ability to feed the main bus (and alternator field) and the e-bus, I'm not too worried about a failure of one of the switches to take the whole system down. Should I be? It just occurred to me that, if I ignore the alternator field, it will get power from the main bus any time that either contactor is closed and unless the field breaker is pulled. Then I think I can use 2-10 switches to open the contactors and close the alternate feeds with full down being the both off position. Is this correct or is there a hazard in not switching the alternator field with the master? I'm trying to save panel space and make management of the busses simpler (at least for me) by having all the functionality of each battery on one switch each. Otherwise I would need four switches to get the same functionality as the two switches I'm proposing and without the (perceived) benefit of automatically disconnecting the contactor when I go to the alt feed position. I just need to remember that if either switch is in the alt feed position (all the way up) then the other switch needs to be full up or full down. If the alternator goes belly up, I would run on one battery only and if it runs down faster than anticipated, I'd turn on the other battery and find a place to land before I could run it down too. On a related note, I have a swing down panel with fuse blocks on it for main, e and one of the battery busses. The only thing on the other battery bus would be an ignition for which I would use an inline fuse holder or fusible link. It is about 3 feet from either of the batteries and I'm thinking maybe I should use fusible links to protect them. I'm planning to have a 40 amp alternator and two 17ah batteries. I'm looking to feed the main bus with an 8awg from the connector between the battery contactors, and the e-bus alternate feeds with 8awg feeders from each battery though the switches as discussed above. Should any or all three of these be fed through fusible links? If so, how would I go about connecting a short piece of 12awg to the 8awg to make the link? I can't seem to find any butt connectors larger than 10awg for sale. I guess I could solder and heat shrink 'em. Pax, Ed Holyoke --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 09:07 PM 2/7/2006 -0800, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net> > >Howdy, > >I wish to use two switches to control two batteries as follows: >I want the bottom position to be off. >I want the center position to be battery contactor on and alternator >field on. >I want the top position to be e-bus alternate feed on and alternator >field off. > >Is this doable? What kind of switch do I need. How would I wire it? Would you leave the battery contactor closed while the e-bus alternate feed is closed? Are you sure you want a single device to have this much control over your system's functionality. It becomes a single point of failure for lots of stuff. There's a reason why those functions are separated out into two switches in the Z-figures. Bob . . . < What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that > < the authority which determines whether there can be > < debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of > < scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests > < with experiment. > < --Lawrence M. Krauss >


    Message 7


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    Time: 10:09:07 AM PST US
    From: "Dr. Peter Laurence" <Dr.Laurence@mbdi.org>
    Subject: Re: Switch Question
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dr. Peter Laurence" <Dr.Laurence@mbdi.org> > Howdy, > > I wish to use two switches to control two batteries as follows: > I want the bottom position to be off. > I want the center position to be battery contactor on and alternator > field on. > I want the top position to be e-bus alternate feed on and alternator > field off. > > Is this doable? What kind of switch do I need. How would I wire it? > > Thanks, > > Ed Holyoke Ed, I would not configure it this way. I would suggest the following: Down-off Middle- Battery contactor on Up-Alternator(and battery on) This config will not allow the alt to be energized without the battery on. Utilize a single pole single throw switch for the e-buss. If you need to de-energize the alternator, you can place the switch back to the middleor pull the field breaker. mtcw Peter > > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 10:24:54 AM PST US
    From: Bill Dube <william.p.dube@noaa.gov>
    Subject: Re: Wire sizing.
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bill Dube <william.p.dube@noaa.gov> Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: >Keep in mind too that the 0.5 volt value is a rule-of-thumb. > Consider that we expect things to perform in a useful way all the > way down to battery-only ops of 11.0 volts. That's a whole lot more > than 0.5 volts below a 14.2 volt bus when alternator is operating > normally. If your "thumb" should turn out to be 0.6 or 0.7 or even > 0.8 volts long, it's not going to make a big difference in the > over-all scheme of things. Actually, 0.5 volts it is a maximum limit for 14 volt devices under continuous operation set by the FAA. AC-43.13-1B 11-66 b (Table 11-6) You can read it yourself here: http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/0/99c827db9baac81b86256b4500596c4e/$FILE/Chapter%2011.pdf For incandescent position lights to put out their rated candlepower, they have to get the proper voltage. If there is excessive drop, your lights will be too dim, other folks might not see you as well, and ..... LED position lights (with regulators) are uneffected by any reasonable voltage drop, but they only draw about 1/2 Amp, so there is not much drop anyway. Bill Dube' http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm >At 02:25 PM 2/7/2006 -0700, you wrote: > > > >>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bill Dube <william.p.dube@noaa.gov> >> >>Well I guess as long as he can make it from the switch to the wingtip >>using less than 23 feet of wire, he can stay within the allowed 0.5 volt >>drop using 16 gage wire. >> >>(4.81/1000)*4.4*23 = 0.5 volts >> >>The wing is about 10 feet long. I'm not sure how much wire it will take >>to get from the wing root to the switch, but 10 feet might be a good >>guess. Probably would be OK. >> >> > > > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 11:13:16 AM PST US
    From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
    Subject: Switch Question
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net> Howdy Peter, I wasn't very clear. There would be two switches, one for each battery allowing me to feed the main or e-bus with either or both battery(ies). I'm not sure how the alternator field could be fed without a battery contactor closed anyway. Your point is well taken that the alternator can be taken off line by pulling the field breaker. My latest thinking is to control the main and e-busses with two switches as (poorly) described in my first post and rely on the field breaker for ultimate alternator control. The breaker would not be powered if both of the battery contactors (and with them, the main bus) were off. The alternator field would be on line when either battery is powering the main bus and the breaker is closed. Pax, Ed Holyoke -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Peter Laurence Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 10:07 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch Question --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dr. Peter Laurence" <Dr.Laurence@mbdi.org> > Howdy, > > I wish to use two switches to control two batteries as follows: > I want the bottom position to be off. > I want the center position to be battery contactor on and alternator > field on. > I want the top position to be e-bus alternate feed on and alternator > field off. > > Is this doable? What kind of switch do I need. How would I wire it? > > Thanks, > > Ed Holyoke Ed, I would not configure it this way. I would suggest the following: Down-off Middle- Battery contactor on Up-Alternator(and battery on) This config will not allow the alt to be energized without the battery on. Utilize a single pole single throw switch for the e-buss. If you need to de-energize the alternator, you can place the switch back to the middleor pull the field breaker. mtcw Peter > > >




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