Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:41 AM - Re: Re: Icom A200-Help! (Bill Maxwell)
2. 03:35 AM - Over-voltage event w/ IR alternator ()
3. 03:38 AM - Re: Panel lighting questions (Sam Chambers)
4. 04:21 AM - Re: Over-voltage event w/ IR alternator (Mickey Coggins)
5. 05:06 AM - Re: Over-voltage event w/ IR alternator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 05:18 AM - Re: Satellite versus Cell Phone, Was: AeroElectric-List D... (BobsV35B@aol.com)
7. 05:30 AM - Re: Panel lighting questions (Bill Denton)
8. 05:36 AM - Re: Over-voltage event w/ IR alternator ()
9. 05:42 AM - Re: Strobe power supplies was Wiring issues (Charlie Kuss)
10. 06:57 AM - Re: Satellite versus Cell Phone, Was: AeroElectric-List D... (Dave Morris \)
11. 06:57 AM - Re: Panel lighting questions (Greg Campbell)
12. 07:36 AM - Re: Satellite versus Cell Phone, Was: AeroElectric-List D... (Brian Lloyd)
13. 07:54 AM - Re: Satellite versus Cell Phone, Was: AeroElectric-List D... (Dan Checkoway)
14. 08:28 AM - Re: Satellite versus Cell Phone, Was: AeroElectric-List D... (Brian Lloyd)
15. 08:49 AM - Re: Panel lighting questions (John Schroeder)
16. 08:57 AM - Re: Panel lighting questions (John Schroeder)
17. 09:24 AM - (mchristian@canetics.com)
18. 09:48 AM - Re: Re: Icom A200-Help! (errata of first draft wiring diagrams) ()
19. 10:48 AM - Main and E-Bus ()
20. 10:51 AM - Single point ground? ()
21. 11:07 AM - Re: Main and E-Bus (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
22. 12:15 PM - Re: Main and E-Bus (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
23. 01:04 PM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 33 Msgs - 02/12/06 (Lee Logan)
24. 01:07 PM - Re: ICOM A200 (joelrhaynes@aol.com)
25. 01:11 PM - Re: subject line (Charlie England)
26. 01:19 PM - Re: Main and E-Bus (Ron)
27. 01:38 PM - ANR Headset Connector (Larry E. James)
28. 01:52 PM - Re: ANR Headset Connector (Bill Denton)
29. 02:02 PM - Re: Plane-Power alternators (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
30. 02:35 PM - Re: Re: ICOM A200 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
31. 02:41 PM - Re: Main and E-Bus (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
32. 03:12 PM - Re: ANR Headset Connector (Alan K. Adamson)
33. 04:48 PM - ANL Current Limiter more than 6 inches from starter contactor (STEVE MASSARI)
34. 05:31 PM - Re: Re: Plane-Power alternators (Tim Olson)
35. 06:15 PM - Re: Re: Plane-Power alternators (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
36. 09:04 PM - cell phone range to cell tower (Brian Lloyd)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Icom A200-Help! |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Maxwell" <wrmaxwell@bigpond.com>
That peek required a magnifying glass Bob, plus a bright light and a glass
of scotch.
The dimming circuit doesn't rate a mention in the specifications at all,
beyond a "+14v (input)" description in section 5-2 when describing the
Molex connector pins.
According to the schematic, the input flows through an LC filter, the coil
value unspecified but described as EXC-ELDR25C and is a component used in
several other parts of the schematic; the capacitor is 0.0047 uF. The input
is picked off at the L and C junction. Test voltages at that point are
called out as 13.5V both in Tx and Rx. It then leads to 2 "lamps" on the
Main Unit pcb, drawn as incandescent bulbs but described in the parts list
as LEDs, via an 8.2 ohm resistor. Those 2 are wired in parallel between the
tail of that resistor and ground. They backlight the front panel push
switches. Test voltages at the junction of the tail of the 8.2 ohm res and
the paralleled leds is 12.5V, both in Rx and Tx.
A branch before the 8.2 ohm resistor also feeds a further 6 "lamps", again
drawn as incandescent lamps but again described in the parts list as LEDs,
via an 18 ohm resistor. These 6 backlight the LCD display panel, wired 3 in
series, the 2 series networks then wired in parallel between the tail of the
18 ohm Res. and ground. These obviously backlight the LCD display on the
Front Unit. Test voltages at the junction of the led networks and the 18ohm
are called out as 10.0V on both transmit and receive..
Nothing furter mentioned anywhere but I hope this little helps. It seems to
me to be a fairly straightforward linear circuit, lending itself readily to
dimming by varying the input voltage below the 13.8 volt rail?
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 3:47 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Icom A200-Help!
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
> At 02:39 PM 2/12/2006 +1100, you wrote:
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Maxwell"
>><wrmaxwell@bigpond.com>
>>
>>I was an Icom dealer at the time I got my service Manual but I suggest
>>that
>>you contact Icom US and ask for a copy. I suspect they will know who you
>>are and of your influence in our movement. If not, they would be well
>>advised to find out!
>>
>>I'll take a look at your drawing after I clear this email backlog.
>
> Take a peek at the dimming input. Can you confirm that it
> simply drive panel lamps? Also, does it call out normal
> input current to this pin?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Over-voltage event w/ IR alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bob@flyboybob.com>
Yesterday morning on the way to church I noticed the alternator idiot light
come on. A quick check of the volt meter indicated 18 volts. I was driving
my son's 1990 Ford F-150 with an IR alternator. It took me about thirty
seconds to figure out what to do. There was not enough time left before
church to make a forced landing so I kept flying. I started turning on
anything electrical to absorb the extra electrons that were smashing the
battery. When I remembered the off road driving lights my son recently
installed and turned them on I was down to 13 volts. The voltage would
varry with RPM and as long as I kept everything on and the RPM below 1500 I
could keep the voltage under 14 volts. As the truck accelerated away from a
stop and the transmission was in lower gears the idiot light would come on
each time the voltage was above 16 volts which happened around 2000 RPM.
Once in high gear the RPM would settle around 1200 and the voltage would be
around 13 volts.
In thirty years of driving I would guess that I have had five or six
alternator failures. This is the first time it has been a high voltage
failure. All of the other times it has been low output failures.
Conclusions:
1. some IR alternators out there will detect an overvoltage event (turn
on the idiot light) and yet do nothing about it (continue to produce 18
volts).
2. one event does not make conclusive scinece
3. a check list for OV events would have solved this problem quicker - I
need a plan for low frequency failures with simple solutions.
4. z-13 would have handled this problem in my airplane as the main
alternator would have tripped the OV module; the low voltage tone in my
earphones would alert me to turn on the standby alternator and flight would
have continued to destination.
5. what I learned from conclusions 1, 3, and 4 is worth the risk of
starting another IR alternator e-mail flood.
6. I'm glad I removed the IR regulator from my plane's alternator and
replaced it with an external unit and OV module.
Just remember, everything I say could be wrong - or right?
Regards,
Bob Lee
KR2 N52BL
91% done only 63% to go!
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Panel lighting questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Sam Chambers" <schamber@glasgow-ky.com>
Dean wrote:
> Trying to resolve some nagging instrument lighting control issues here:
>
> 3) Electronic International FL-2CA fuel gauge (capacitive fuel sensing
> with
> display of 2 tanks at once) has both LEDs (which form an analog bar graph
> to
> show fuel levels in both tanks simultaneously) and an LCD digital readout
> (which can be switched between each tank to give a digital indication of
> fuel remaining). The instructions show a connection to the dimming
> control
> that allows varying the intensity of the LED bar graph lights. The LCD
> backlight shows only a +12 volt connection with no dimming capability.
> For
> those of you that have one of these gauges, could a dimmer be connected to
> the LCD backlight 12 volt input to provide a dimming of the LCD backlight?
> Is dimming the LCD backlight worth-wile or even needed at all? Or..have
> you
> just connect the +12 volts and lived with the LCD backlight being on all
> the
> time? Also for the LED bar graphs that are dimmable...does anyone know if
> that takes a variable voltage input (ala B&C dimmer controller)or do I
> need
> a variable resistance to ground?
Dean,
I can't help with the other issues, but the EI gage, I can. The LEDs are
dimmed with 12 vdc applied at the specified pin (unless they have changed
something) and at max brightness with no voltage. If you don't connect the
backlight to keep it on all the time, you will wish you did.
Sam Chambers
Long-EZ N775AM
Glasgow, KY
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Over-voltage event w/ IR alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> Yesterday morning on the way to church I noticed the alternator idiot
light
> come on. A quick check of the volt meter indicated 18 volts. ...
Was that the standard voltmeter that is installed in the car?
What is the scale of the gauge?
What brand of IR alternator are we talking about?
> 5. what I learned from conclusions 1, 3, and 4 is worth the risk of
> starting another IR alternator e-mail flood.
I'm not sure I agree with you! :-)
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Over-voltage event w/ IR alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 06:34 AM 2/13/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bob@flyboybob.com>
>
>Yesterday morning on the way to church I noticed the alternator idiot light
>come on. A quick check of the volt meter indicated 18 volts. I was driving
>my son's 1990 Ford F-150 with an IR alternator. It took me about thirty
>seconds to figure out what to do. There was not enough time left before
>church to make a forced landing so I kept flying. I started turning on
>anything electrical to absorb the extra electrons that were smashing the
>battery. When I remembered the off road driving lights my son recently
>installed and turned them on I was down to 13 volts. The voltage would
>varry with RPM and as long as I kept everything on and the RPM below 1500 I
>could keep the voltage under 14 volts. As the truck accelerated away from a
>stop and the transmission was in lower gears the idiot light would come on
>each time the voltage was above 16 volts which happened around 2000 RPM.
>Once in high gear the RPM would settle around 1200 and the voltage would be
>around 13 volts.
>
>In thirty years of driving I would guess that I have had five or six
>alternator failures. This is the first time it has been a high voltage
>failure. All of the other times it has been low output failures.
>
>Conclusions:
> 1. some IR alternators out there will detect an overvoltage event (turn
>on the idiot light) and yet do nothing about it (continue to produce 18
>volts).
> 2. one event does not make conclusive scinece
> 3. a check list for OV events would have solved this problem quicker - I
>need a plan for low frequency failures with simple solutions.
> 4. z-13 would have handled this problem in my airplane as the main
>alternator would have tripped the OV module; the low voltage tone in my
>earphones would alert me to turn on the standby alternator and flight would
>have continued to destination.
> 5. what I learned from conclusions 1, 3, and 4 is worth the risk of
>starting another IR alternator e-mail flood.
> 6. I'm glad I removed the IR regulator from my plane's alternator and
>replaced it with an external unit and OV module.
>
>Just remember, everything I say could be wrong - or right?
The things you've offered are reasonable deductions based on
irrefutable observation and an understanding of the simple ideas
upon which the failed system functions. Using these tools, the
probability of having good ideas to offer is quite high. I can
find no faults in your narration.
The most profound observation I would offer is that because of
your willingness to learn, understand, observe, react and
craft a Plan-B on the fly (load it up and keep rpm low) is
gratifying to me. As engineer I KNOW that ALL alternator/regulator
combinations have operating/failure modes wherein there is benefit
for crafting the automatic (or at least a rapid-response manual)
control philosophy.
The difficult task is as teacher to share that knowledge in ways
that impart understanding. If what you've shared with us today
is based at least in part on understanding you've acquired here
on the List, then you've made my day sir. Know that there are
ways to add positive, low stress control to an IR alternator and the
hardware for doing that will be available in due course. Thank
you for sharing your contribution with us.
I'm off to class today. RAC offered me a short course (35 hours)
from KU on flight testing. I'm sure that most of the course
materials have to do with the investigation of an airplane's
aerodynamics and structural integrity which is way out of my
field of expertise. But the most successful test programs
are those which are well instrumented and supported by tools for
evaluating data. You ought to see how Eclipse has conducted
their flight tests! I'm looking forward to a week of immersion
in, as #5 would say, "input". This is going to be a good week.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Satellite versus Cell Phone, Was: AeroElectric-List |
D...
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 2/13/2006 12:52:55 A.M. Central Standard Time,
brian-yak@lloyd.com writes:
The two systems with which I am familiar are Iridium and Globalstar. They
seem quite pricey when compared to cellular/PCS service here in the US
but the key is that they work just about anywhere in the world (Iridium)
with no roaming charges. OTOH they cost like paying roaming charges for
normal service. Expect to pay about $1(US) per minute for air time.
Thank You Brian. That certainly has possibilities.
Do Not Archive
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
Message 7
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Subject: | Panel lighting questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Denton" <bdenton@bdenton.com>
You posted:
"1) MAC (?Ray Allen?) trim servo position INDICATOR(LED bar graph type).
The
MAC drawings show a white wire (used for dimming control) connected to the
INPUT side of the aircraft's dimmer pot (the side of the pot connected to
+12 volts). Is this diagram correct and do I have to connect this wire to
the input side of the dimmer control? Or can I connect it to the OUTPUT
side of a B&C solid state dimmer? The connection drawing also shows
separate power and ground connections to the indicator so I'm not sure if
the dimming action needs a variable resistance to ground or a variable input
voltage!? Also...anyone know how much current these draw at full
intensity?"
The Ray Allen indicators do not have "variable" lighting; they simply have a
full intensity state and a dimmed state. Applying a voltage to the white
wire causes the LED's to dim; removing that voltage causes them to operate
with full intensity.
You would not want to put them on the "output" side of a dimmer.
The rationale for connecting the white wire to the "input" side of the
dimmer is that you would normally not have a voltage there unless the panel
lights were turned on, either via the NAV light switch or a separate PANEL
light switch.
So, with the panel lights OFF, no voltage would be applied to either the
"input" side of the dimmer switch, nor to the white wire connected there,
and the LED's would operate with full brightness. Turning the panel lights
ON would apply a voltage to the "input" side of the dimmer switch, and to
the white wire connected there, which would dim the LED's.
Hope this is helpful...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DEAN
PSIROPOULOS
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 12:25 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Panel lighting questions
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
<dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Trying to resolve some nagging instrument lighting control issues here:
1) MAC (?Ray Allen?) trim servo position INDICATOR(LED bar graph type). The
MAC drawings show a white wire (used for dimming control) connected to the
INPUT side of the aircraft's dimmer pot (the side of the pot connected to
+12 volts). Is this diagram correct and do I have to connect this wire to
the input side of the dimmer control? Or can I connect it to the OUTPUT
side of a B&C solid state dimmer? The connection drawing also shows
separate power and ground connections to the indicator so I'm not sure if
the dimming action needs a variable resistance to ground or a variable input
voltage!? Also...anyone know how much current these draw at full intensity?
2)Mid Content Instruments MD200-306 VOR/ILS indicator internal light
dimming. Thanks for giving me the scoop on the connections here. NOW.....I
need to know how much current the internal lighting needs at maximum
brightness. Anybody know the answer to this one? Can't seem to locate an
answer in the manual I have. I need to know this so I can determine the
current capacity of the dimming control circuit.
3) Electronic International FL-2CA fuel gauge (capacitive fuel sensing with
display of 2 tanks at once) has both LEDs (which form an analog bar graph to
show fuel levels in both tanks simultaneously) and an LCD digital readout
(which can be switched between each tank to give a digital indication of
fuel remaining). The instructions show a connection to the dimming control
that allows varying the intensity of the LED bar graph lights. The LCD
backlight shows only a +12 volt connection with no dimming capability. For
those of you that have one of these gauges, could a dimmer be connected to
the LCD backlight 12 volt input to provide a dimming of the LCD backlight?
Is dimming the LCD backlight worth-wile or even needed at all? Or..have you
just connect the +12 volts and lived with the LCD backlight being on all the
time? Also for the LED bar graphs that are dimmable...does anyone know if
that takes a variable voltage input (ala B&C dimmer controller)or do I need
a variable resistance to ground?
4)For dimming control on the EZ Pilot and AFS AOA indicators, a momentary
push button switch is used that temporarily grounds one pin on the
connector. Is there a way to control these two instruments with an
potentiometer style instrument panel dimmer control or do we have to use the
buttons? Is such precise dimming control of these instruments worth-wile or
even needed at all?
5)Non related to panel lights but related to Lightspeed Plasma II+
electronic ignition. I got this one because it uses the aircraft style key
switch to turn it on and off. I didn't find any key switch depicted or
specified in the manual. I'm using the STD aircraft A510 key switch that
grounds the P leads to shutoff the mags (I have one mag on the left side).
Is this the correct switch or do I need a car style that makes a connection
to enable the electronic ignition? I would also like to install an
annunciator light that will turn on when I have the ignition turned on at
the key switch and turn off when the key is off...anyone done this or know
how to accomplish it? Thanks much.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Autocad-21 drawings so far
Message 8
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Subject: | Over-voltage event w/ IR alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bob@flyboybob.com>
Mickey asked: [answers in [] brackets]
Was that the standard voltmeter that is installed in the car? [Ford Factory]
What is the scale of the gauge? [8 to 18 volts in 1 volt incriments]
What brand of IR alternator are we talking about? [Stock Ford]
> 5. what I learned from conclusions 1, 3, and 4 is worth the risk of
> starting another IR alternator e-mail flood.
I'm not sure I agree with you! :-) [like I said, everything I said could
be wrong!]
Regards,
Bob Lee
KR2 N52BL
91% done only 63% to go!
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Strobe power supplies was Wiring issues |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
You might want to consult your Whelen manual regarding using this
power pack for 3 or 4 strobe heads. What is your power supply model?
Most Whelen and Nova power supplies only supply rated power to HALF
the number of heads. Most units only supply half power when using
more than half the maximum number of strobe heads. My Nova 904 can
run up to 6 heads. However, this means that each capacitor must power
2 heads rather than 1. This cuts the charging time (and therefore the
power output) for each head, in half.
This could become an issue when your DAR makes his/her inspection.
Charlie Kuss
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "rlnelson5" <rlnelson-5@peoplepc.com>
>
>Hello
> Redoing my lower dash panel.
>
> 1 I have a Whalen strobe powerpack that can handle either 1,2,3
> or 4 strobes. It is 14v 7a unit . I have 2 wingtip , 1 tail and 1
> red strobe/ beacon.
>
> My question is if I could use a [ 2-10 ?] switch to control this
> strobe power unit and have the red beacon turn on the middle switch
> position and then add the other 3 strobes at the top switch position?
> If that would not do it is there some other arrangment to do it?
>
>2 I have the B + C instrament lighting dimmer setup .
> I have Inst. lights, couple of post lights Radio lights ,Lower
> dash panel lights , and 2 over the shoulder lights. I have a cabin
> ovhd light as well.
>
> I am using Fiber light units on most instraments and on the lower
> dash. The lower dash units are a long fiber optic strip that has
> lettering on them to label the lower dash panel items.
>
> How should I handle this whole setup?
> I only have one dimmer pot .
>Do I need some type of rotary switch?
> Regular switches or wire the ovhd to a seperate switch? ? wire
> them all together?
>
>Any ideas would be helfull
>
> thanks l
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11546#11546
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Satellite versus Cell Phone, Was: AeroElectric-List |
D...
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave Morris \"BigD\"" <BigD@DaveMorris.com>
AeroElectric-List D...
I have some shares of Iridium if someone wants to buy them **cheap** I'll
sell them for what I paid for them (smirk smirk) :)
Dave Morris
At 07:17 AM 2/13/2006, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>
>
>In a message dated 2/13/2006 12:52:55 A.M. Central Standard Time,
>brian-yak@lloyd.com writes:
>
>The two systems with which I am familiar are Iridium and Globalstar. They
>seem quite pricey when compared to cellular/PCS service here in the US
>but the key is that they work just about anywhere in the world (Iridium)
>with no roaming charges. OTOH they cost like paying roaming charges for
>normal service. Expect to pay about $1(US) per minute for air time.
>
>
>Thank You Brian. That certainly has possibilities.
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>Happy Skies,
>
>Old Bob
>AKA
>Bob Siegfried
>Ancient Aviator
>Stearman N3977A
>Brookeridge Air Park LL22
>Downers Grove, IL 60516
>630 985-8503
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Panel lighting questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Greg Campbell <gregcampbellusa@gmail.com>
I'll take a shot at Question #1)
The white wire is a "logic input" to control a dimmer built into the LED
trim indicator.
The two "logic states" are "FULL Brightness" and "HALF Brightness",
controlled by
the voltage supplied to the white wire as a "command" to the built in
dimmer.
If you don't apply any voltage to the white wire, (or if you don't bother
connecting it),
then you are commanding FULL Brightness whenever the trim display is powered
up.
If you apply anything from 12v down to some "threshold voltage"
(which can be determined), then the display will be at "HALF Brightness".
If you apply some voltage, but less than the "threshold voltage",
then the display will again be at "FULL brightness".
(Essentially treating it the same as applying no voltage to it.)
So the simplest thing is to hook the white wire up to the INPUT side of your
panel lights
dimmer. If you've turned on the panel lights - then the trim display will
sense 12v on
the white wire and go to HALF Brightness and stay there regardless of how
low
you turn the panel lights.
However, if you hook the white wire to the OUTPUT side of your dimmer - then
the
trim indicator will probably go to HALF Brightness when you turn your panel
lights ON,
but it may go back up to FULL Brightness when you turn your panel lights way
down low.
This would happen if the OUTPUT voltage from the panel dimmer is below the
switching threshold of the trim indicator's "dimmer input" circuit.
It won't hurt anything to try - it's just a logic input. You might be able
to "get away"
with hooking the white wire up to the OUTPUT side. It will add a miniscule
load
to the dimmer's load - and worst case you'll see your trim indicators get
brighter
when you turn the panel dimmer all the way down low.
Maybe you see that as a feature, not a bug ;-)
A reminder that you have the panel lights turned down low.
A FEW OTHER NOTES:
The MAC / Ray Allen trim indicators rely on a simple 5K potentiometer inside
the servo.
The three colored wires coming out of a Servo are connected to the three
terminals of the pot.
You can figure out which is which by using an Ohmmeter across them. Two
wires
will have a 5,000 ohm resistance regardless of the position of the servo.
The other wire
is the "tap" - and the readings from the "tap" to each "end" should add up
to 5,000 Ohms.
In normal use, the indicator applies some "reference voltage" (probably 5v
regulated)
across the ends of the potentiometer, and the tap returns a voltage
proportional to the servo's position.
The 5K potentiometer inside the servo will handle 12v applied across the
"ends" of the pot
regardless of the position of the servo arm. However, if you have the servo
arm at one
end or the other - the resistance from the tap to that end of the
potentiometer can be fairly low.
Inadvertently applying 12v across the tap and that end could smoke the
potentiometer
inside the servo. I can't think of any good reason to be applying 12v to
the servo
potentiometer lines - but it's something to keep in mind.
Similarly, you shouldn't apply 12v to the Trim Indicator wires (other than
the red & black).
To do so could smoke a diode inside the RP2 indicator, or possibly damage
the RP3 indicator.
See this link for more details:
www.RayAllenCompany.com/RACmedia/instructionsT2andT3.pdf
Another comment is the availability of the "needle type" RP2 trim
indicators.
See: www.AircraftSpruce.com/catalog/elpages/racindicators.php
I find the green LED from the (RP3) trim indicator gives some strong
reflections in the cockpit
that turn up on the windshield at night. And sometimes I have to shade the
LED indicator
with my hand to read it in direct sunlight. (Mine is a few years old
though.)
So. you might want to consider the analog RP2 meter version of the trim
indicator.
I'm not sure if it has a built in light - but for $75 I'm hoping it does.
Hope it helps,
Greg
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Satellite versus Cell Phone, Was: AeroElectric-List |
D...
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
BobsV35B@aol.com wrote:
> brian-yak@lloyd.com writes:
>
> The two systems with which I am familiar are Iridium and Globalstar. They
> seem quite pricey when compared to cellular/PCS service here in the US
> but the key is that they work just about anywhere in the world (Iridium)
> with no roaming charges. OTOH they cost like paying roaming charges for
> normal service. Expect to pay about $1(US) per minute for air time.
>
>
>
> Thank You Brian. That certainly has possibilities.
If you need telephone service while flying your airplane, this is
certainly the way to go. Most of the expensive yachts have these. These
phones also offer low-speed (9600 bps) access to the Internet.
For those of you interested in having someone know where you are should
you go down and not have to pay an arm and a leg for it, I would suggest
you consider getting your amateur radio license and put your airplane
into the APRS network. APRS works by broadcasting your GPS-derived
position to the rest of the APRS network on the ham bands. (This is
similar in approach to ADS-B that the FAA is rolling out.) There are
lots of people out there listening and an airplane has a great deal of
advantage in that its VHF transmitter will cover a lot of territory.
Odds are high that another ham on the network will hear and forward your
position information.
BTW, they also use APRS on the HF (short-wave) bands which give
world-wide coverage.
(My call is WB6RQN - extra)
--
Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way
brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Satellite versus Cell Phone, Was: AeroElectric-List |
D...
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I recently did some research on satellite phone rentals. You can rent sat
phones by the week, month, whatever. I occasionally fly through a section
of Mexico between Mexicali and Punta Penasco that is desolate to say the
least. My ELT is worthless, and I'm not a big believer in PLBs. By
contrast, to pay $60 or $70 for a week of satellite phone rental appeals to
me...go down in a desolate area, and at least you can call in your own
search party.
Google "satellite phone rental" and you'll find tons of options.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (800+ hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Morris "BigD" AeroElectric-List D..." <BigD@DaveMorris.com>
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 6:51 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Satellite versus Cell Phone, Was:
AeroElectric-List D...
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave Morris \"BigD\""
> <BigD@DaveMorris.com> AeroElectric-List D...
>
> I have some shares of Iridium if someone wants to buy them **cheap** I'll
> sell them for what I paid for them (smirk smirk) :)
>
> Dave Morris
>
> At 07:17 AM 2/13/2006, you wrote:
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>>
>>
>>
>>In a message dated 2/13/2006 12:52:55 A.M. Central Standard Time,
>>brian-yak@lloyd.com writes:
>>
>>The two systems with which I am familiar are Iridium and Globalstar. They
>>seem quite pricey when compared to cellular/PCS service here in the US
>>but the key is that they work just about anywhere in the world (Iridium)
>>with no roaming charges. OTOH they cost like paying roaming charges for
>>normal service. Expect to pay about $1(US) per minute for air time.
>>
>>
>>
>>Thank You Brian. That certainly has possibilities.
>>
>>Do Not Archive
>>
>>Happy Skies,
>>
>>Old Bob
>>AKA
>>Bob Siegfried
>>Ancient Aviator
>>Stearman N3977A
>>Brookeridge Air Park LL22
>>Downers Grove, IL 60516
>>630 985-8503
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Satellite versus Cell Phone, Was: AeroElectric-List |
D...
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
Dave Morris "BigD" AeroElectric-List D... wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave Morris \"BigD\"" <BigD@DaveMorris.com>
AeroElectric-List D...
>
> I have some shares of Iridium if someone wants to buy them **cheap** I'll
> sell them for what I paid for them (smirk smirk) :)
Yeah, it was a financial bust for the original investors. The technology
was good but no one bothered to wonder if, when everyone else was paying
25 cents per minute for cell service, would anyone bother to pay a
dollar a minute (or more). Iridium went belly up but all those beautiful
satellites were still up there. They were even going to de-orbit the
birds! Fortunately someone bought them at fire-sale prices and the
network remained. You can run the network pretty cheaply if you don't
have to pay to build and launch the satellites.
Of course this begs the question: is it profitable to replace satellites
that die? My guess is that they probably can keep it going but I haven't
looked at their books.
--
Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way
brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Panel lighting questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Dean -
Answer is yes. That is the way they dim the led's in that indicator. If
you have the input to your dimmer switched, you can take the dimmer input
to the same pole on the switch or from its connection to the input side of
the dimmer.
John
On Mon, 13 Feb 2006 01:24:43 -0500, DEAN PSIROPOULOS
<dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net> wrote:
> 1) MAC (?Ray Allen?) trim servo position INDICATOR(LED bar graph type).
> The
> MAC drawings show a white wire (used for dimming control) connected to
> the
> INPUT side of the aircraft's dimmer pot (the side of the pot connected to
> +12 volts). Is this diagram correct and do I have to connect this wire
> to
> the input side of the dimmer control?
--
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Panel lighting questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Dean -
We have the same instrument and did not bother with the current flow. It
is very low and I'm guessing that it is no more than 0.2 amps.
Am sending you two .pdf pages to your email address from my wirebook
showing the trim setup and the MD200 feed.
John
On Mon, 13 Feb 2006 01:24:43 -0500, DEAN PSIROPOULOS
<dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net> wrote:
> 2)Mid Content Instruments MD200-306 VOR/ILS indicator internal light
> dimming. Thanks for giving me the scoop on the connections here.
> NOW.....I
> need to know how much current the internal lighting needs at maximum
> brightness. Anybody know the answer to this one? Can't seem to locate an
> answer in the manual I have. I need to know this so I can determine the
> current capacity of the dimming control circuit.
--
Message 17
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: mchristian@canetics.com
I just finished the installation of the ACS FlyCam in my taildragger Shekari.
I am putting the low light capable Sony CCD in the cowl pointing level in taxi
config. The dimmable 6.8" TFT LCD will allow me to get a better view of what
I can't see due to the cowl at night and day. In flight, the camera will be
pointing down at an angle to expose the area I can not see due to the cowl.
I am sanding and filling prior to paint, so I can't say yet how it will work out.
Camera tests in low level light though show great resolution.
Mike
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Re: Icom A200-Help! (errata of first draft wiring |
diagrams)
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Basic ICOM A200 wiring (corrected). Forgot a jumper in the first draft. Also shown
is my interpretation of how to wire the "HOT" mic intercom built into the
ICOM. I have heard from two folks that used the ICOM internal intercom. It works
but is low on volumn, and it was suggest even a cheap Flightcom or similar
low cost VOX intercom would be better.
http://img486.imageshack.us/img486/8466/icoma2004lh.jpg
Below is my two ICOM's with no audio panel idea's. I show three ways to wire.
Disclaimer is I never wired this up before, but think it will work fine. I have
great memories of my OLD Piper Apache with two King KX170's that did not have
an audio panel. It just had a switch to select the transmitter. The ADF was
wired thru one of the KX170s aux input ( I think) and individual volumn control
was used to listen or silence the radio/nav of choice.
The mixer is a common electronic kit that takes 3 or 4 inputs and mixes it thru
a preamp to one output.
http://img486.imageshack.us/img486/3088/icomblock5xg.jpg
George
---------------------------------
Message 19
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Anyone have pictures of what a Main Bus and E-Bus can look like?
I know what they look like on a schematic, and what B+C sells as Bus Bar
Stock which is .025" x .5" x 12" brass.
I can see if you have breakers in a row you can screw to the brass.
What if you have switches, fuses and breakers? Can you solder Faston tabs
like B+Cs Tab ground kit?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 20
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Subject: | Single point ground? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Hmmmm, this bounced back to me??
Have a question on B+C 24/48-Tab Firewall Ground Kit:
Is it desirable to put a phospher bronze internal star washer under head
of bolt and ground bus, and under nut and other ground bus, and under nut
that captures ground lugs?
Or??
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 21
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
The busses really are the fuse boxes...At least mine are.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 10:45 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Main and E-Bus
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Anyone have pictures of what a Main Bus and E-Bus can look like?
I know what they look like on a schematic, and what B+C sells as Bus Bar
Stock which is .025" x .5" x 12" brass.
I can see if you have breakers in a row you can screw to the brass.
What if you have switches, fuses and breakers? Can you solder Faston
tabs like B+Cs Tab ground kit?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Main and E-Bus |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 2/13/06 12:51:29 PM Central Standard Time,
rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US writes:
> Anyone have pictures of what a Main Bus and E-Bus can look like?
>>
Hi Ron-
Here's a look at mine-
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5003
click on the foto for larger view &let me know if ya have any questions...
Mark Phillips - Columbia, TN
All-electric RV-6A, 280 hours
do not archive
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 33 Msgs - 02/12/06 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Lee Logan <leeloganster@gmail.com>
"You make this implicit assumption on which to base an argument to change
the FAA's mind: "I am conscious and able to turn on my blackberry or cell
phone, and to connect and to describe my location ... ". If you are not
capable of the above and need rescue to stay alive, or your family needs
your body for closure, the whole process needs to be automatic and more
accurate. That's the answer the FAA will send back. Now, how to do what
they want in a way that will be far more reliable than the method mandated
now, and will not break our banks, is the problem at hand. There is a much
better solution, but it costs a lot more and so far, a lot of folks have
rejected it because of cost.
John Schroeder"
All good points, I think. I was not aware cell towers have to be within 3
miles for cell phones to work. How do they do it in Cambodia? I was there
a couple of years ago and reception was outstanding---surprised me no end.
Never saw a cell tower anywhere.
The problem with ELT's (assuming the stats given are right) is that they
aren't very reliable either (12% of the time). If you are incapacitated you
may be out of luck either way. Satcom is nice but expensive. Oh well.
406, here I come, I guess.
Regards,
Lee...
Message 24
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: joelrhaynes@aol.com
Bob,
Having just recently wired my ICOM A200, I recognized that you reversed pins 9
and J on your schematic below. Pin 9 is the PTT and pin J is mic input HI.
A real service manual! I'd love to get a copy.
The latest wiring on the ICOM website shows two normally
open, pull-downs to ground for those two functions.
I needed a break from some other things I was supposed to be
doing today and threw a little drawing package together. It's
posted at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Installation_Data/IC-A200_Icom_Installation_Wiring.pdf
If folks would care to review it and ask any questions that are not
answered, suggest additional materials be added or have spotted errors,
I'd be delighted to get he feedback. I've already found a goof. I'd
intended
to show how to "dummy load" the speaker output with an inset on page
2. I also note that the real model number is IC-A200 which ought to be
fixed in several places.
Dee and I are off to dinner with some old friends who used to work with
us at Videmation when I was rummaging around in train wrecks instead
of building airplanes.
Bob . . .
Message 25
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Subject: | Re: subject line |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
I'm not trying to play list cop, but it is helpful to use a subject line
in posts.
With viruses running rampant, I'm prone to delete anything I don't
recognize & I'd bet others are, as well.
thanks,
Charlie
Message 26
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
Look at my web site as I made a slide out fuse panel that houses the main-
e-bus and main battery bus, the link is at the bottom of this page.
Ron Triano
http://bld01.ipowerweb.com/contentmanagement/websites/rtrianoc/page10.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Fiveonepw@aol.com
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Main and E-Bus
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 2/13/06 12:51:29 PM Central Standard Time,
rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US writes:
> Anyone have pictures of what a Main Bus and E-Bus can look like?
>>
Hi Ron-
Here's a look at mine-
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5003
click on the foto for larger view &let me know if ya have any questions...
Mark Phillips - Columbia, TN
All-electric RV-6A, 280 hours
do not archive
Message 27
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Subject: | ANR Headset Connector |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry E. James" <larry@ncproto.com>
Can anyone steer me to the proper connector to accept a
ship-powered ANR headset ?? If I go this route (and I
prefer not having a battery flopping around the cockpit)
are there options for me to adapt to standard dual-plug
headsets also ??
thanks in advance,
--
Larry E. James Harmon Rocket II
Seattle, WA
Message 28
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Subject: | ANR Headset Connector |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Denton" <bdenton@bdenton.com>
Bose sells them ($31.95 IIRC), and I believe Lightspeed uses the same
connector...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry
E. James
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 3:37 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: ANR Headset Connector
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry E. James"
<larry@ncproto.com>
Can anyone steer me to the proper connector to accept a
ship-powered ANR headset ?? If I go this route (and I
prefer not having a battery flopping around the cockpit)
are there options for me to adapt to standard dual-plug
headsets also ??
thanks in advance,
--
Larry E. James Harmon Rocket II
Seattle, WA
Message 29
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Subject: | Re: Plane-Power alternators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
At the risk of starting another disputatious thread about alternators, is
there any field experience with Plane-Power? They appear to have addressed
some of the concerns that have been expressed over the last months and they
are now selling into the experimental market. According to a spokesperson
their units have improved cooling fans, internal regulation with external
control via the field circuit, overvoltage protection mounted on the
alternator, balanced rotating parts, machined drive pulley, low voltage
warning light and all the parts needed to mount the system on a Lycoming
(for instance). Apparently the regulator is set to 14.3volts plus or minus.
I do not know who manufactures the basic unit. Does anyone out there know
these people or have operational experience with their equipment? They
apparently sell through distributors which include Aircraft Spruce and
Chief. Prices are not extremely low but are substantially lower than B&C's
60A with LR3. Comments please.
Thank you.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 30
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 04:06 PM 2/13/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: joelrhaynes@aol.com
>
> Bob,
>Having just recently wired my ICOM A200, I recognized that you reversed
>pins 9 and J on your schematic below. Pin 9 is the PTT and pin J is mic
>input HI.
>
Got it fixed. Thanks!
Bob . . .
Message 31
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Subject: | Re: Main and E-Bus |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 06:45 PM 2/13/2006 +0000, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
>Anyone have pictures of what a Main Bus and E-Bus can look like?
If you use breakers, then they look something like
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Breakers/Bus_Bar_Not_1.jpg
. . . except the breakers are more modern.
If you use fuse blocks, the bus bars are built into the
fuse block assembly . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/fuseblks.jpg
Nothing to build, just bolt it in and start wiring up.
>I know what they look like on a schematic, and what B+C sells as Bus Bar
>Stock which is .025" x .5" x 12" brass.
That works well for breakers . . .
>I can see if you have breakers in a row you can screw to the brass.
yup . . .
>What if you have switches, fuses and breakers? Can you solder Faston tabs
>like B+Cs Tab ground kit?
Perhaps you were unaware that the bus is built into the fuse
holders. Use the fuseblocks as supplied and your bus bars
are already done. They run right down the middle of the fuseblock
and you wire them with a wire to the fat screw at the end of the
fuseblock.
Bob . . .
Message 32
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Subject: | ANR Headset Connector |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alan K. Adamson" <aadamson@highrf.com>
Spruce sell the bose one with a wiring bundle already attached for $30ish...
DC uses a different connector I believe, there is a 6 pin and an 8 pin
version..
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Denton
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 4:51 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: ANR Headset Connector
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Denton"
--> <bdenton@bdenton.com>
Bose sells them ($31.95 IIRC), and I believe Lightspeed uses the same
connector...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry E.
James
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 3:37 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: ANR Headset Connector
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry E. James"
<larry@ncproto.com>
Can anyone steer me to the proper connector to accept a ship-powered ANR
headset ?? If I go this route (and I prefer not having a battery flopping
around the cockpit) are there options for me to adapt to standard dual-plug
headsets also ??
thanks in advance,
--
Larry E. James Harmon Rocket II
Seattle, WA
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Subject: | ANL Current Limiter more than 6 inches from starter |
contactor
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: STEVE MASSARI <smassari@optonline.net>
All of the Aeroelectric 'Z' diagrams show the ANL current limiter mounted within
6 inches of the starter contactor. I would like to mount mine on the right side
of the battery on a RV9. What wire size would you use ? I am using the B&C
base with a 60A fuse.
Message 34
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Subject: | Re: Plane-Power alternators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I have a very little experience with Plane-Power, both customer
service and flying.
I was one of the first to receive an experimental unit, right
after their certified models were certified. They were extremely
nice and sent me proto's of both the 60 and 70A so I could
see which one fits the RV-10. (The answer is both) The 70A
runs cooler due to a bigger pulley, so I bought it. Since this
was their first experience selling to that market, and there are
so many varieties of engine block styles, there was a small
issue originally. On my engine, there was a spot on the
block that interfered with their mounting swingarm. They were
extremely interested in making it perfect, so they got measurements
from me and literally had hundreds of arms made that would conform
to this engine block. I thought that was exceptional customer
service that they would make sure that the arms fit perfect with
no shimming or other cobble jobs to make them work...and it was
very nice to help improve a product for a bigger market.
Mine does have dual fans, and the front and back both pull towards
the inside, and it exhausts out the center. Mine also came with
a blast tube mount, which I did hook up. It has Overvoltage protection
and low voltage warning lights (they do work with 12V LED's too).
Yesterday I had my first flight and today I flew again in my RV-10.
The alternator charged just fine and everything worked great from
first glance. There's not enough experience yet from me to
give a ton of info, but I can tell you that I think my alternator
was putting out 13.8-13.9V.
All in all, I looked at it as a great savings, having the built-in
regulator, and knowing how hard they worked to get FAA/PMA approval
on their certified units, I felt reassured that they tested their
experimental OV protected units too. I hope I never have the
opportunity to test it first hand. In addition, they aren't just
rebuilt units, and they do use things like special brushes or
something like that that work at high altitudes.
I was happy enough with them that I plan to buy a future
standby or Aux alternator if they get one developed and
out to market. They are also just very nice people in general,
which is always worth a couple of points in my book.
Tim Olson -- Flying RV-10
#40170
do not archive
Gordon or Marge Comfort wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
>
>
>
> At the risk of starting another disputatious thread about alternators, is
> there any field experience with Plane-Power? They appear to have addressed
> some of the concerns that have been expressed over the last months and they
> are now selling into the experimental market. According to a spokesperson
> their units have improved cooling fans, internal regulation with external
> control via the field circuit, overvoltage protection mounted on the
> alternator, balanced rotating parts, machined drive pulley, low voltage
> warning light and all the parts needed to mount the system on a Lycoming
> (for instance). Apparently the regulator is set to 14.3volts plus or minus.
> I do not know who manufactures the basic unit. Does anyone out there know
> these people or have operational experience with their equipment? They
> apparently sell through distributors which include Aircraft Spruce and
> Chief. Prices are not extremely low but are substantially lower than B&C's
> 60A with LR3. Comments please.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
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Subject: | Re: Plane-Power alternators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Plane-Power alternators
I was happy enough with them that I plan to buy a future standby or Aux
alternator if they get one developed and out to market. They are also just
very nice people in general, which is always worth a couple of points in my
book.
Tim Olson -- Flying RV-10
#40170
do not archive
Thank you, Tim. That is very helpful. It certainly would simplify the
wiring.
Gordon
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Subject: | cell phone range to cell tower |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
Lee Logan wrote:
> All good points, I think. I was not aware cell towers have to be within 3
> miles for cell phones to work. How do they do it in Cambodia? I was there
> a couple of years ago and reception was outstanding---surprised me no end.
> Never saw a cell tower anywhere.
You will have greater range under ideal line-of-sight conditions but
with the power and antenna limitations here in the US, you aren't likely
to get a whole lot more than that, I would say 10 mi tops. Throw in
trees and terrain and you may not even get 3 miles.
Point is, don't count on a cell phone if you are off the beaten path.
--
Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way
brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
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