Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:03 AM - Re: SS firewall penetration (G McNutt)
2. 04:47 AM - For Sale: Electric Attitude Gyro (Steve Glasgow)
3. 05:31 AM - Re: SS firewall penetration (Charlie Kuss)
4. 05:36 AM - Re: SS firewall penetration (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 06:14 AM - Temperature compensation, UMA CHT (Gilles Tatry)
6. 06:53 AM - Re: You think alternators are safe? (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
7. 07:56 AM - Re: You think alternators are safe? (Ken)
8. 08:59 AM - Re: You think alternators are safe? ()
9. 10:03 AM - (Glaeser, Dennis A)
10. 10:03 AM - Re: SS firewall penetration (Glaeser, Dennis A)
11. 10:39 AM - SS firewall penetration hardware (Glen Matejcek)
12. 11:26 AM - Re: Re: SS firewall penetration (sportav8r@aol.com)
13. 01:30 PM - Re: Re: You think alternators are safe? (n801bh@netzero.com)
14. 01:45 PM - Re: Re: You think alternators are safe? (Dj Merrill)
15. 03:57 PM - Re: Z-13/8 Bad if both alternators on at once? (Goguen, Jon)
16. 04:05 PM - Re: Crimper for large (AWG 10-6) open barrel terminals (Goguen, Jon)
17. 06:09 PM - Wire label printers (Terry Watson)
18. 08:02 PM - Re: Re: You think alternators are safe? (Steven DiNieri)
19. 08:18 PM - Re: Wire label printers (Joemotis@aol.com)
20. 10:39 PM - Re: dimmer ckt from Van's (Chris & Kellie Hand)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: SS firewall penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: G McNutt <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Hi Bill
I was thinking of using JB Weld, is the fire temperature rating for the
itumescent caulk higher than the 500 degree F. rating for JB Weld?
Thanks,
George in Langley BC
>
>I have the itumescent caulk from the Aviation department at Lowe's. That was
the easy part.
>
>-Bill B
>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | For Sale: Electric Attitude Gyro |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
On Ray Allan RCA26AK-4 rebuilt by Kelly Manufacturing Company and under warentee
till Jan 10, 2007. It has 8 degree tilt but no lights. Papers avaialble. $1,200
or best offer.
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=12833#12833
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: SS firewall penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
George,
The firewall sealant should be of a flexible nature, as there is
significant flexing in this area. I doubt that JB weld would be suitable there.
Charlie Kuss
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: G McNutt <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
>
>
>Hi Bill
>
> I was thinking of using JB Weld, is the fire temperature rating for the
>itumescent caulk higher than the 500 degree F. rating for JB Weld?
>
>Thanks,
>
>George in Langley BC
>
> >
> >I have the itumescent caulk from the Aviation department at
> Lowe's. That was the easy part.
> >
> >-Bill B
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: SS firewall penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 12:02 AM 2/17/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: G McNutt <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
>
>
>Hi Bill
>
> I was thinking of using JB Weld, is the fire temperature rating for the
>itumescent caulk higher than the 500 degree F. rating for JB Weld?
Much higher. JB Weld is not rated for effects of a fuel-fed fire.
It's a filled epoxy not a self protecting putty. You can
test it yourself for suitability but it's a lot of work.
I'd recommend you stay with materials designed and tested
to the task.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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Subject: | Temperature compensation, UMA CHT |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles Tatry" <gilles.tatry@wanadoo.fr>
Hi Bob and all,
After examining carefully the TC probe sold with the UMA CHT, the situation
appears even worse than I expected. The probe has only 2 ft TC lead wires,
and then copper extension wires. So with my in-line engine, cylinder 2 the
hottest, the "cold" junction will be INSIDE the engine compartment, where
temperature can rise somewhat higher than the 75F the instrument is
calibrated for!
So, I bought TC connectors and extension wires from Omega to move the cold
junction close to the instrument.
Jean-Pierre Castiello, who designed the A320 brakes temp monitoring, is to
craft for me an external compensation box based on the same AD594. Input is
the J extension, output will directly drive the CHT air core movement.
I will let you know the result...
Thanks to all of you for the so precious informations I could gather from
the list!
Gilles
Message 6
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Subject: | You think alternators are safe? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
I think this means...Fusable links can start a fire before the fuse
blows?....:)
Therein lies the problem with 12V power presumably.
Frank
If this is interpreted to be a requirement, then it cannot
be complied with using contemporary I(squared)*R overcurrent
detecting devices; I.e., thermal breakers, fat fuses or
ANL limiters and particularly fusible links.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: You think alternators are safe? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
If a device can get hot enough to ignite itself or its surroundings
without tripping the fuse or whatever overcurrent protection is in use,
then a fire will result. AC or DC makes no difference. The type of
remotely located overcurrent protection fuse/fusiblelink/CB makes no
difference. (Well OK it could make a slight difference in cases where a
fast fuse blows before slower protection but I'm assuming the current is
below what will trigger any overcurrent protection) We size the fuse to
protect the wire but generally have little control over what is in the
device that the wire is connected to. This scenario is more common when
ciruitry is connected in parallel with a single overcurrent protection
device and one branch shorts but not hard enough to blow the fuse. And
of course in some cases all it takes is a wee spark to start a fire.
The next level of remote protection is probably a ground fault device.
Even they only protect against one type of circuit failure but they can
be helpful with some devices that are prone to develop hazardous leakage
current paths to ground.
There is an argument that a shorted stator winding will blow an open
circuit in its diodes and not be a hazard but unfortunately diodes can
also fail shorted. Kind of reminds me of the argument that the field
transistor can't fail shorted but in any case it also seems prudent to
me to keep my OV contactor to enable disconnecting the alternator. If my
suspicions that scenarios like this do actually occur with stators is
correct, then I don't believe an external VR alternator would offer any
additional protection compared to an internal VR unit with this type of
fault.
Ken
Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
>I think this means...Fusable links can start a fire before the fuse
>blows?....:)
>
>Therein lies the problem with 12V power presumably.
>
>Frank
>
> If this is interpreted to be a requirement, then it cannot
> be complied with using contemporary I(squared)*R overcurrent
> detecting devices; I.e., thermal breakers, fat fuses or
> ANL limiters and particularly fusible links.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: You think alternators are safe? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>From: <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>"Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
>Subject: You think alternators are safe?
No! Take them out.
You are right you should not have an alternator or battery they
are dangerous. Get a glider or an ultralight with a pull start.
I think its mostly Fords Frank.
>Afternoon all, One of my part time jobs is to be on call as an
>Incident commander for a large blue chip wafer fab plant.
You get to sleep and get paid. America is wonderful.
>Last night we had a Ford Mustang pull into one of our
>employee parking lots and the "charge lamp" came on as the
>employee was looking for his spot.
Looked it up did not make the web News. I guess Fords
catching on fire is not news; it happens so much.
>Half an hour later (12:30 am thankyou!) I was awoken by
>the pager going off saying the car was on fire. And had
>involved 4 other vehicles. By the time the Fire Department
>got there the thing was fully engulfed with 20 foot
>flames...Fortunately the gas tank was not involved.
Fords catching on fire, consumer complaints, safety alerts,
service bulletins and recalls and lawsuits are common.
http://www.fordfires.com/
http://www.interfire.org/res_file/fseab_tv.asp
http://www.vehicle-injuries.com/ford-fire.htm
http://www.wesh.com/news/4606995/detail.html
>This morning...sure enough, signs that the fire started at the
>alternator but the battery was completely melted in what
>looks like feeding an internal short on the alternator.
Here is a partial list of Ford electrical fire recalls:
Make: FORD
Model: WINDSTAR
Year: 1995
Recall Number: 94V223000
Summary: THE ALTERNATOR OUTPUT WIRE WAS
NOT CONNECTED TIGHTLY TO THE POWER
DISTRIBUTION BOX.
Consequence:
THIS CAN RESULT IN OVERHEATING OF THE
CONNECTION AND A POSSIBLE VEHICLE **FIRE**.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSPECT AND TIGHTEN THE
CONNECTION. VEHICLES WITH VISIBLE DAMAGE TO
THE PLASTIC POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX HOUSING
WILL HAVE THE UNDERHOOD HARNESS, INCLUDING
THE POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX, REPLACED.
Make/Model: 1999 Mercury Cougar
Recall ID from NHTSA: 01V031000;
Recall Date: 02/06/2001
Component: ELECTRICAL BATTERY:CABLES
Potential Units Affected: 120000
Summary: VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER
VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 2.5L V6 ENGINES. THE
BATTERY CABLE WAS MISROUTED AND ITS
ATTACHMENT TO THE ALTERNATOR CABLE WAS
UNDER-TORQUED. IF MISROUTED, THE CABLE COULD
CONTACT THE POWER STEERING LINE AND THE
INSULATION COULD WEAR, RESULTING IN AN
ELECTRICAL SHORT.
Defect Consequence: THE SHORT COULD POTENTIALLY
RESULT IN A **FIRE**, STALLING, OR A NO-START
CONDITION.
Electrical/ **Fires**:
Tow package relay short, 60,000 1986-88 Aerostar (88V-091);
Power seat short, 90,000 1986 Aerostar (88V-145);
Alternator output wire short 112,000 1995 Windstar (94V-223);
Ignition switch short, 200,000+ 1988-91 Aerostar - (96V-071);
Fuel pump wiring harness short 1994-95 Aerostar (99V-028);
Accessory power feed circuit short 757,000 1992-97 Aerostar
(99V-029).
>Of course you know I was thinking, "I sure glad to have a way
>to disconnect the alt"!!!
Me to. That is what the BIG pull-able CB on my panel is for.
Have a way to Pull a CB to disconnect the alternator.
Idiot light comes on Pull CB and land (or park)
Lesson learned have tight connections
Don't use Ford parts
>Frank, Zodiac flying 400 hours,
>RV7a finishing up prior to paint
Cheers George
---------------------------------
Brings words and photos together (easily) with
Message 9
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
--------------------------------
Is there firesleeve available to work with the Home Depot 1.5" SS grab
bar for roll-your-own firewall penetrations? If so, what "hose size" do
I look for to equal 1.5" ID or OD? I'm getting the feeling after
bringing home a 1.5" grab bar that I should have ordered the 1.25" stuff
from McMaster-Carr. Even so, I'm still not sure what stock # of
firesleeve will fit this. Any tips? Thanks. I have the itumescent caulk
from the Aviation department at Lowe's. That was the easy part.
-Bill B
--------------------------------
Bill,
Check out this website: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/aero6.htm
They have ID's listed up to 1.5"
Dennis Glaeser
7A Fuselage
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: SS firewall penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
--------------------------------
Is there firesleeve available to work with the Home Depot 1.5" SS grab
bar for roll-your-own firewall penetrations? If so, what "hose size" do
I look for to equal 1.5" ID or OD? I'm getting the feeling after
bringing home a 1.5" grab bar that I should have ordered the 1.25" stuff
from McMaster-Carr. Even so, I'm still not sure what stock # of
firesleeve will fit this. Any tips? Thanks. I have the itumescent caulk
from the Aviation department at Lowe's. That was the easy part.
-Bill B
--------------------------------
Bill,
Check out this website: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/aero6.htm
They have ID's listed up to 1.5"
Dennis Glaeser
7A Fuselage
Message 11
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Subject: | SS firewall penetration hardware |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
_______________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________
>>
>Is there firesleeve available to work with the Home Depot 1.5" SS grab bar for
>roll-your-own firewall penetrations? If so, what "hose size" do I look for to
>equal 1.5" ID or OD? I'm getting the feeling after bringing home a 1.5" grab
>bar that I should have ordered the 1.25" stuff from McMaster-Carr. Even so,
>I'm still not sure what stock # of firesleeve will fit this. Any tips?
>
>Thanks.
>
>I have the itumescent caulk from the Aviation department at Lowe's. That was
the
>easy part.
>
>-Bill B
>
Hi Bill-
There is firesleeve available from Earl's Performance plumbing. They have a web
site, but you might be better served by calling them and speaking directly with
them. I'm on the road and will be for another 9 days (remind me- is this
part of the glomour or the glory of aviation?) so I can't get you better info
just now. Hope this helps some. I used the same technique for FW penetration
and am very happy with the outcome.
Glen Matejcek
Glen Matejcek
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: SS firewall penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
Good resource; thanks!
-Bill
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Glaeser, Dennis A <dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
Sent: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 13:02:16 -0500
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: SS firewall penetration
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A"
<dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
--------------------------------
Is there firesleeve available to work with the Home Depot 1.5" SS grab
bar for roll-your-own firewall penetrations? If so, what "hose size" do
I look for to equal 1.5" ID or OD? I'm getting the feeling after
bringing home a 1.5" grab bar that I should have ordered the 1.25" stuff
from McMaster-Carr. Even so, I'm still not sure what stock # of
firesleeve will fit this. Any tips? Thanks. I have the itumescent caulk
from the Aviation department at Lowe's. That was the easy part.
-Bill B
--------------------------------
Bill,
Check out this website: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/aero6.htm
They have ID's listed up to 1.5"
Dennis Glaeser
7A Fuselage
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: You think alternators are safe? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com>
Lesson learned have tight connections
Don't use Ford parts
/////////////////////////////////
Dem dare fighin words....................................
Jus kiddin ,,,,altho the V-8 Ford in my plane just keeps tickin along. It doesn't
have any ford electrical parts in it tho..... <G>
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
Lesson learned have tight connections
Don't use Ford parts
/////////////////////////////////
Dem dare fighin words....................................
Jus kiddin ,,,,altho the V-8 Fordin my plane just keeps tickin along. It doesn't
have any ford electrical parts in it tho..... G
do not archive
BenHaas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: You think alternators are safe? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
n801bh@netzero.com wrote:
>Jus kiddin ,,,,altho the V-8 Ford in my plane just keeps tickin along. It doesn't
have any ford electrical parts in it tho..... <G>
>do not archive
>
>
Ticking? I don't think it is supposed to do that... *wink*
do not archive
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
Message 15
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Subject: | Z-13/8 Bad if both alternators on at once? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Goguen, Jon" <Jon.Goguen@umassmed.edu>
Bob,
Just to clarify. Scott's original question concerned Z-13/8. If he were to use
the BC-1 regulator for his main alternator rather than the specfied generic
Ford, would he avoid OV cross-talk with an SD-8 using the standard OV protection
scheme?
Jon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Robert L. Nuckolls,
III
Sent: Thu 2/16/2006 7:13 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z-13/8 Bad if both alternators on at once?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
once?
At 01:52 PM 2/16/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jon Goguen <jon.goguen@umassmed.edu>
>
>Scott,
>
>Unless special provisions are made, an over voltage condition on one
>alternator would trigger the over voltage protection on both.
>
>Jon
I designed the SB-1 alternator for B&C such that it
KNOWS which of the two alternators is causing the OV
condition. An OV condition on the main alternator will
not trip the OV protection in the standby alternator
when wired per Z-12.
Bob . . .
Message 16
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Subject: | Crimper for large (AWG 10-6) open barrel terminals |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Goguen, Jon" <Jon.Goguen@umassmed.edu>
Yes, they're fast-on style. They fit the high-current terminals on 70 amp automotive
relays.
Jon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Robert L. Nuckolls,
III
Sent: Thu 2/16/2006 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Crimper for large (AWG 10-6) open barrel terminals
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
barrel terminals
At 04:09 PM 2/16/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jon Goguen <jon.goguen@umassmed.edu>
>
>Hi All,
>
>Looking for a crimper that will handle large open barrel female
>terminals that fit 0.375" quck-connect males. These are the only 0.375
>quick connect females I have been able to find. I could use closed
>barrel insulated or uninsulated females if anybody can tell me where to
>get them.
Are these a "fast-on" style connector? For 6AWG wire?
Where do you plan to use them?
Bob . . .
Message 17
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Subject: | Wire label printers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
I don't think this has been noted on this list before. Dymo has some
hand-held printers that work with wiring labels for under $100 now. Here is
a link to the pdf file on one of the printers:
http://dymo.com/img/compel/JaMWjqkn1vU_tszsSsYIER1uURG4VVCg.pdf
This is a link to their website for the $50 printer that will do wiring
labels:
http://dymo.com/enUS/Products/RhinoPRO_1000.html
Terry
RV-8A finishing?
Seattle
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: You think alternators are safe? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
Let it be known that it's not standard practice for any automotive
manufacturer to protect the alt charging lead or the starter supply wire.
Well, I'm sure there are a "few" exceptions, but I've been contracted to
restore more than a few electrical fireballs. Most recently a 2002 Lexus
gs430 almost met its end when the 4ga starter supply wire met the exhaust
manifold and began to discharge the battery at an accelerated pace. The
braided ground to the engine failed, then the alternate ground paths had to
carry the heavy load. Primarily sensor grounds to the ecm, which then begin
to overheat within the larger harnesses and begin to fuse to other
wires/circuits which propagate the process until either the battery melts
internally and goes critical or discharges.
I've measured inrush currents to some gm starters at over 230 amp which
would make fusing difficult, perhaps they figure why bother??
Alternators typically rated at 100 or 120 amp would be relatively easy to
fuse, but I don't know why they aren't. perhaps the risks that the
alternator melts down internally or the 8ga feed to the batt becomes
compromised is less than the risk that the fuse inline may false and require
a service dept visit.
Just .02
Steven dinieri
Rv221rv
>"Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
>Subject: You think alternators are safe?
No! Take them out.
You are right you should not have an alternator or battery they
are dangerous. Get a glider or an ultralight with a pull start.
I think its mostly Fords Frank.
>Afternoon all, One of my part time jobs is to be on call as an
>Incident commander for a large blue chip wafer fab plant.
You get to sleep and get paid. America is wonderful.
>Last night we had a Ford Mustang pull into one of our
>employee parking lots and the "charge lamp" came on as the
>employee was looking for his spot.
Looked it up did not make the web News. I guess Fords
catching on fire is not news; it happens so much.
>Half an hour later (12:30 am thankyou!) I was awoken by
>the pager going off saying the car was on fire. And had
>involved 4 other vehicles. By the time the Fire Department
>got there the thing was fully engulfed with 20 foot
>flames...Fortunately the gas tank was not involved.
Fords catching on fire, consumer complaints, safety alerts,
service bulletins and recalls and lawsuits are common.
http://www.fordfires.com/
http://www.interfire.org/res_file/fseab_tv.asp
http://www.vehicle-injuries.com/ford-fire.htm
http://www.wesh.com/news/4606995/detail.html
>This morning...sure enough, signs that the fire started at the
>alternator but the battery was completely melted in what
>looks like feeding an internal short on the alternator.
Here is a partial list of Ford electrical fire recalls:
Make: FORD
Model: WINDSTAR
Year: 1995
Recall Number: 94V223000
Summary: THE ALTERNATOR OUTPUT WIRE WAS
NOT CONNECTED TIGHTLY TO THE POWER
DISTRIBUTION BOX.
Consequence:
THIS CAN RESULT IN OVERHEATING OF THE
CONNECTION AND A POSSIBLE VEHICLE **FIRE**.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSPECT AND TIGHTEN THE
CONNECTION. VEHICLES WITH VISIBLE DAMAGE TO
THE PLASTIC POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX HOUSING
WILL HAVE THE UNDERHOOD HARNESS, INCLUDING
THE POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX, REPLACED.
Make/Model: 1999 Mercury Cougar
Recall ID from NHTSA: 01V031000;
Recall Date: 02/06/2001
Component: ELECTRICAL BATTERY:CABLES
Potential Units Affected: 120000
Summary: VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER
VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 2.5L V6 ENGINES. THE
BATTERY CABLE WAS MISROUTED AND ITS
ATTACHMENT TO THE ALTERNATOR CABLE WAS
UNDER-TORQUED. IF MISROUTED, THE CABLE COULD
CONTACT THE POWER STEERING LINE AND THE
INSULATION COULD WEAR, RESULTING IN AN
ELECTRICAL SHORT.
Defect Consequence: THE SHORT COULD POTENTIALLY
RESULT IN A **FIRE**, STALLING, OR A NO-START
CONDITION.
Electrical/ **Fires**:
Tow package relay short, 60,000 1986-88 Aerostar (88V-091);
Power seat short, 90,000 1986 Aerostar (88V-145);
Alternator output wire short 112,000 1995 Windstar (94V-223);
Ignition switch short, 200,000+ 1988-91 Aerostar - (96V-071);
Fuel pump wiring harness short 1994-95 Aerostar (99V-028);
Accessory power feed circuit short 757,000 1992-97 Aerostar
(99V-029).
>Of course you know I was thinking, "I sure glad to have a way
>to disconnect the alt"!!!
Me to. That is what the BIG pull-able CB on my panel is for.
Have a way to Pull a CB to disconnect the alternator.
Idiot light comes on Pull CB and land (or park)
Lesson learned have tight connections
Don't use Ford parts
>Frank, Zodiac flying 400 hours,
>RV7a finishing up prior to paint
Cheers George
---------------------------------
Brings words and photos together (easily) with
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Wire label printers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com
In a message dated 2/17/2006 6:11:25 PM Pacific Standard Time,
terry@tcwatson.com writes:
http://dymo.com/img/compel/JaMWjqkn1vU_tszsSsYIER1uURG4VVCg.pdf
I use the earlier by one version of this machine at work and my comment is
"It rocks".
Great tool, ergonomically and functionally.
Joe
Do not archive
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: dimmer ckt from Van's |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand@earthlink.net>
Fixed this tonight and posting solution for the archives in case others run into
similar problems.
It was a manufacturing defect but the fix was quick and easy, and I didn't want
to wait for shipping a replacement even if Van's was willing to exchange it.
Was also a good learning experience as I realized in troubleshooting this that
these simple dimmer circuits could easily be built with just a few dollars worth
of parts.
Took the ckt board out of the plane and hooked it up on workbench. Only parts
on the ckt board are a terminal block, a single 100 ohm resister, and a heat
sink mounted LM317 voltage regulator. Looked up a LM317 data sheet on-line to
figure out what I should see at which pins.
Turns out, the LM317 output pin was putting out the correct output voltage, varying
from 2.5 V to (batt volt - 2.5) V, but I wasn't getting that voltage at the
terminal block the output/load wire connects to. In looking closer, the through-board
pin for the output terminal had a bad solder joint. Pin stuck through
the board with just a little solder on top of the pin but no connection to
the pad/board.
A little touch up with the soldering iron fixed the problem and after re-installing,
it works as designed.
One thing I don't like about these boards is the terminal block connecting method
- just stick a wire into the block and mash the wire down with the little screw.
Seems like kind of a crude/weak method after all the crimped and soldered
connecters we so carefully put together....
Chris Hand
RV-6A, finishing stages....
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris & Kellie Hand
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 10:49 PM
Subject: dimmer ckt from Van's
I hooked up my instrument lights to the Van's dimmer ckt I installed and powered
things up. Power distribution is working and I have battery voltage at the
+12V terminal screw on the dimmer board. Also show good ground on the dimmer
board's ground terminal screw. Potentiometer is working properly and connected
to the right terminals on the board.
Output I'm getting at the Load terminal on the dimmer board varies from 0 to
about 6 mV rather than the expected 2.5 V up to battery voltage.
The dimmer ckt is new out of the box, but I bought it well over a year ago and
didn't test it prior to now. Has anybody experienced similar issues with the
Van's board, and are there any suggestions on how to fix it without having to
buy a new one?
If I give up on the dimmer ckt from Van's, I need to find something else with
a poteniometer/dimmer knob the same size or larger since I already have the current
one installed in the panel.
Thanks for any help or advice you can give me.
Chris Hand
RV-6A, finishing stages
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