Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:15 AM - SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky Mountain Encoder (Gerry Holland)
2. 04:06 AM - Re: SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky Mountain Encoder (Gerry Holland)
3. 04:38 AM - Parts Source? ()
4. 05:27 AM - Re: SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky Mountain Encoder (Ralph E. Capen)
5. 05:52 AM - Re: B&C SSF-1 finally died (John Schroeder)
6. 05:54 AM - SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky Mountain Encoder (Gerry Holland)
7. 05:56 AM - Re: Lightspeed Ignition with Key switch (Tim Olson)
8. 06:21 AM - Re: Starter problem analysis (William)
9. 06:33 AM - CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died (rd2@evenlink.com)
10. 09:05 AM - Re: Starter problem analysis (Brian Lloyd)
11. 09:05 AM - Re: SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky Mountain Encoder (Matt Prather)
12. 09:05 AM - Re: SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky Mountain Encoder (Gerry Holland)
13. 09:34 AM - Re: SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky Mountain Encoder (Gerry Holland)
14. 09:34 AM - Re: Annunciator panel LED brightness (John Schroeder)
15. 09:54 AM - Re: B&C SSF-1 finally died (Dan Checkoway)
16. 09:55 AM - Re: CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died (Dan Checkoway)
17. 10:02 AM - Re: B&C SSF-1 finally died (Dan Checkoway)
18. 10:27 AM - Re: B&C SSF-1 finally died (John Schroeder)
19. 11:19 AM - Annunciator Panel LED Brightness (Dennis Johnson)
20. 11:56 AM - CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died (rd2@evenlink.com)
21. 11:57 AM - Re: B&C SSF-1 finally died (Richard E. Tasker)
22. 12:15 PM - Re: B&C SSF-1 finally died (Chris & Kellie Hand)
23. 12:59 PM - Radio Noise-Starter switch?? ()
24. 01:40 PM - Re: Starter problem analysis (Jim Michael)
25. 02:13 PM - Re: Starter problem analysis (Terry Watson)
26. 02:42 PM - Battery for ultralight aircraft (Richard Riley)
27. 02:52 PM - Re: Starter problem analysis (Bob McCallum)
28. 03:22 PM - CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died (BobsV35B@aol.com)
29. 03:22 PM - Re: Starter problem analysis (Brian Lloyd)
30. 03:24 PM - Re: Battery for ultralight aircraft (Brian Lloyd)
31. 03:25 PM - Re: Battery for ultralight aircraft (Brian Lloyd)
32. 03:33 PM - Re: Starter problem analysis (Jim Michael)
33. 03:56 PM - SL70 transponder & Grand Rapids EFIS (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
34. 04:04 PM - Re: CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died (chaztuna@adelphia.net)
35. 04:23 PM - Re: Annunciator panel LED brightness (Brinker)
36. 04:55 PM - Re: Starter problem analysis (Jim Michael)
37. 04:55 PM - Re: Battery for ultralight aircraft (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
38. 06:35 PM - Re: Marketing research question (richard titsworth)
39. 06:37 PM - Re: Annunciator panel LED brightness (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
40. 06:45 PM - Re: Battery for ultralight aircraft (Charlie England)
41. 07:11 PM - Electronic fuel gauges (Roger Cole)
42. 07:24 PM - Re: Annunciator Panel LED Brightness (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
43. 08:48 PM - Re: Electronic fuel gauges (Mitchell Faatz)
44. 09:42 PM - Re: SL70 transponder & Grand Rapids EFIS (Brian Lloyd)
45. 09:51 PM - Re: Parts Source? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
46. 10:43 PM - Re: Marketing research question (Robert G. Wright)
47. 11:10 PM - Re: SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky Mountain Encoder (Werner Schneider)
48. 11:23 PM - Re.SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky Mountain Encoder (Gerry Holland)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky Mountain |
Encoder
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gholland@gemini-resourcing.com>
Hi to al!
I'm doing a bench shakedown on my Panel prior to fit in Aircraft.
Results not too bad but SL70 Transponder encoding from Rocky Mountain
Encoder not functioning.
With the SL70 it's possible to view altitude as live function so I should
have that facility at testing and operation on the bench.
I've set both at serial and 1200 baud, checked all the serial connections
(2!) so I guess I have a configuration problem.
Any input from this worldwide council of experts greatly appreciated.
Regards
Gerry
Europa XS
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky |
Mountain Encoder
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gholland@gemini-resourcing.com>
Hi!
> I'm doing a bench shakedown on my Panel prior to fit in Aircraft.
> Results not too bad but SL70 Transponder encoding from Rocky Mountain
> Encoder not functioning.
I may have had an oversight!
It appears that I may have assumed a serial output for Transponder and
that's not possible but may need to revisit and go parallel.
Still interested in any comments on this combination.
Regards
Gerry
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
> 3/10/2006
>
> Hello Fellow Builders, I bring the below web site to your attention:
>
> http://www.emachineshop.com/
>
> I have no connection with or first hand knowledge of this company. I am,
> however, absolutely astounded that they would list a capability to make
> aircraft parts.
>
> Most companies, unless they are OEM's, PMA's, hold an STC, or cater to the
> amateur built community ask you to leave as soon as you reveal that an
> aircraft is involved in your inquiries.
>
> OC
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky |
Mountain Encoder
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
The SL70 is designed to accept both Serial and grey code inputs and provide
serial output. I have the install manual at the hangar - but I think I have
a pdf copy too... it provides wiring and settings.
I have mine set up for grey in from my NARCO encoder and serial out to my
GX60.
I'll agree that it's a config issue - my first step would be baud rates -
1200 seems low......
I'll send what I find,
Ralph Capen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Holland" <gholland@gemini-resourcing.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 6:04 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky
Mountain Encoder
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry Holland
> <gholland@gemini-resourcing.com>
>
> Hi to al!
>
> I'm doing a bench shakedown on my Panel prior to fit in Aircraft.
> Results not too bad but SL70 Transponder encoding from Rocky Mountain
> Encoder not functioning.
>
> With the SL70 it's possible to view altitude as live function so I should
> have that facility at testing and operation on the bench.
>
> I've set both at serial and 1200 baud, checked all the serial connections
> (2!) so I guess I have a configuration problem.
>
> Any input from this worldwide council of experts greatly appreciated.
>
> Regards
>
> Gerry
>
> Europa XS
>
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: B&C SSF-1 finally died |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Dan -
How many did it take to get the 5 (pound?) discount.
This kit looks good. With the relay, I'd like to wire it to a small
speaker or light on the annunciator panel.
I'm in the process of wiring up the dual mag checker. I wish all kits were
as well documented and "instructed" as this one, and a bargain too.
Thanks,
John
> I did a group buy with a bunch of local RV builders, so we took
> advantage of the 5+ discount and the int'l shipping ended up being
> essentially
> negligible.
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky Mountain |
Encoder
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gholland@gemini-resourcing.com>
Ralph Hi!
Thanks for the response.
> The SL70 is designed to accept both Serial and grey code inputs and provide
> serial output. I have the install manual at the hangar - but I think I have
> a pdf copy too... it provides wiring and settings.
You are right. Just dont think the Micro Encoder supplies Transponder data
other than parallel. It does supply serial data to most GPS. I may well be
wrong. The Altitude data string is available in all of the predefined
protocols. I'm just wiring it up now using the grey output. It's snowy and
wet here so it's working out!
> I'll agree that it's a config issue - my first step would be baud rates -
> 1200 seems low......
>
> I'll send what I find.
Many thanks. Dont waste any build or flying time!
Regards
Gerry
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Ignition with Key switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Dean,
Another builder, Dave Sundberg passed this on to me previously, and
I wired mine this way and it indeed works fine. It does seem a bit
like black magic, but seeing as it works fine I won't be complaining. ;)
------
The P-Lead from the mag goes to the L-Terminal on the Switch with the
shield connected to the GRN terminal on the mag and not connected to
anything on the switch end.
The P-Lead from the LS (Pin 1) goes to the R-Terminal on the
switch and the shield (Pin 9) goes to the GRN-Terminal in the
center of the switch.
Do not connect the jumper from the R-Term to the GRN-Terminal next
to it.
Do not connect the center GRN-Terminal on the switch to aircraft
ground. Both ignitions are grounded out with the switch in the OFF position.
Dave had been flying and it was working for him. I have now been
flying and am done with my flyoff and it's worked great for me too.
I had previously spent time hooking mine up and ohming things
out and was confused as heck. I also was confused in that the P-Lead
on the mag is seemingly shorted to ground even with the wire
disconnected, so I couldn't easily tell that it would be grounded
by the switch. If you hook it all up, except for the mag P-Lead,
you can indeed see that they ground the way their supposed to.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
>
> I've been looking at my drawings one more time before actually wiring this
> up. I have one (Slick) magneto and one Lightspeed Plasma II+. I was hoping
> to hook them BOTH to the standard aircraft key switch (A-510-2) but in
> looking at it again, I'm not sure that will work. If I connect the Plasma
> II+ at the key switch ground (GRD) and the "R" terminal I have a usable
> connection. If however, I want to also connect the Left Magneto P-lead to
> the switch then I have to connect the center conductor of the magneto P-lead
> to the "L" terminal and the "P" Lead shield to the switch "GRD" connection.
> The only problem with this is that the other end of the magneto P-lead
> shield will have to be grounded out at the magneto case which, I believe,
> would effectively ground it to the airframe and battery negative potential.
> According to a note on Lightspeed's connection diagram, the Plasma II+ key
> switch wiring can NOT be connected to airframe ground.
>
> So...it appears to me that I cannot connect both the Plasma II+ and a
> magneto P-lead to the same key switch!? For you folks running this same set
> up, do I understand this correctly or am I missing something? Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Autocad psychosis
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Starter problem analysis |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William" <wschertz@ispwest.com>
Something else to check -- When the engine is hot, is it harder to turn over
by hand at the prop? The reason I ask is that a local builder had this
behavior, and it turned out that there was an internal engine problem that
made the engine bind when hot. Just something to check.
Bill Schertz
KIS Cruiser # 4045
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Michael" <jm@10squaredcorp.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 12:43 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Starter problem analysis
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Michael
> <jm@10squaredcorp.com>
>
> I am trying to troubleshoot a problem with the starter on my Stinson.
> The problem seems to occur only when the engine is hot. When the
> engine is cold the engine turns over fine. When hot, the starter acts
> like it's trying to turn and after multiple attempts it will finally
> start turning over. I've read that this is a low voltage condition
> and I've taken some voltage readings with the engine cold:
>
> Prior to charging battery: 12.38 VDC at the terminals
> After charging battery: 12.87 VDC at the terminals
> Battery voltage at terminals while cranking: 10.4 VDC
> Voltage across starter while cranking: 9.8 VDC
> Voltage across master and starter solenoid while cranking: < 1 VDC
>
> The ground connection consists of a cable from the battery to the
> engine mount and from another engine mount point to the engine via a
> ground strap.
>
> I plan to take a meter and test leads with me to get some readings the
> next time the problem arises, but do these readings indicate a
> problem with the starter or battery?
>
> I hope this is the right forum for this question, if not please
> forgive the intrusion.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
>
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com
Dan, this looks like a nice kit. Do you have any info about the CO
concentration threshold at which this kit triggers the alarm? Did any
calibration instructions come with the kit?
Rumen
_____________________Original message __________________________
(received from Dan Checkoway; Date: 07:13 PM 3/11/2006
-0800)
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Which CO kit did you build? Where to get it? How much?
http://www.electronic-kits-and-projects.com/4055.htm
I did a group buy with a bunch of local RV builders, so we took advantage of
the 5+ discount and the int'l shipping ended up being essentially
negligible.
Soldered it up and tested it with my truck exhaust, acetone vapor, etc. It
seems to work as advertised, although I have to admit I haven't even
installed it in the plane yet! (doh!)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Starter problem analysis |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
William wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William" <wschertz@ispwest.com>
>
> Something else to check -- When the engine is hot, is it harder to turn over
> by hand at the prop? The reason I ask is that a local builder had this
> behavior, and it turned out that there was an internal engine problem that
> made the engine bind when hot. Just something to check.
That is actually fairly normal. The cylinder walls cool and contract
more rapidly than do the pistons. This reduces clearances and increases
friction. It is worst about 10 minutes after shutdown or just about how
long it takes to put fuel in the airplane at the self-serve pumps.
Regardless, the starter should be able to rotate the engine at full
speed even with this additional load, especially given the voltage
numbers you are seeing. Your battery voltage is not sagging considerably
under this load nor do your voltage drops appear unreasonable between
battery and starter.
What you did not mention is the voltage drop on the ground side of
things. Place your voltmeter's positive lead on the starter case and
negative on the negative pole of the battery and crank. You may be
surprised at how much ground resistance you have. Check and fix that
first before getting a new starter.
OTOH, if you do all of this and find minimal losses, you are probably
going to have to face the need for a new or rebuilt starter.
--
Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way
brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky |
Mountain Encoder
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Prather <mprather@spro.net>
Gerry,
Do you know if there's any warmup time on the Encoder? Many standalone
encoders take 5min or so from the time power is applied before anything
comes out of the data lines. The sensing device will respond to changes
in temperature and baro pressure, so I believe the encoder has a
regulated heater circuit to control the temp of the sensor. That takes
a little time to warm up and stabilize..
Matt-
Gerry Holland wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gholland@gemini-resourcing.com>
>
>Hi to al!
>
>I'm doing a bench shakedown on my Panel prior to fit in Aircraft.
>Results not too bad but SL70 Transponder encoding from Rocky Mountain
>Encoder not functioning.
>
>With the SL70 it's possible to view altitude as live function so I should
>have that facility at testing and operation on the bench.
>
>I've set both at serial and 1200 baud, checked all the serial connections
>(2!) so I guess I have a configuration problem.
>
>Any input from this worldwide council of experts greatly appreciated.
>
>Regards
>
>Gerry
>
>Europa XS
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky |
Mountain Encoder
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gholland@gemini-resourcing.com>
Hi all. Panic over.
SL70 working well with Rocky Mountain Encoder in Gray Format.
One last glitch...... Strobe (pin 15) and Com (Pin 14) needed connecting
together for handshake to work.
The SL70 seems a neat unit with Altitude readout and an Altitude hold
function for notification of loss or gain of altitude. Can drive a warning
lamp if required.
Many thanks to Ralph Capen for a near instant response!
Another task closer to first flight. Not long now.
Regards
Gerry in UK
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky |
Mountain Encoder
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gholland@gemini-resourcing.com>
Matt Hi!
Thanks for the tip on warm up time. In this case it didn't seem to happen or
be needed.
It really works well now. Reading some small print found the requirement for
strobe to be connected to com!
Just a few bugs to go.
Thanks again
Gerry
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Annunciator panel LED brightness |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
I used Mark's schematic, including the zener dimming, and it works great.
I needed more lights and wanted larger ones, so I used NKK lamps and made
an annunciator to fit in the stack.
http://w1.lancair.net/pix/jschroeder-panel/Panel_Test_4
Cheers,
John
On Sat, 11 Mar 2006 23:14:40 EST, <Fiveonepw@aol.com> wrote:
> If you folks are really interested in a cheap (pretty sure I have less
> than $30 in the thing), very effective annunciator panel, this has
> worked out very well for me- after almost 300 hours I haven't missed a
> single "annunciation" and couldn't be happier with the reliability,
> brightness, or anything else for that matter of this very basic,
> functional and easy to build project:
--
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: B&C SSF-1 finally died |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> How many did it take to get the 5 (pound?) discount.
It was just a quantity thing. Based on the web site today it looks like if
you order 5+ then you get the lower price.
do not archive
)_( Dan
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Dan, this looks like a nice kit. Do you have any info about the CO
> concentration threshold at which this kit triggers the alarm? Did any
> calibration instructions come with the kit?
> Rumen
No, it doesn't mention anything about the threshold, which is adjustable
anyway. A friend of mine who also bought one said at work he has access to
different gases in different concentrations and was going to run some tests.
I haven't heard from him.
To be honest, it looks more like a kid's educational kit than a robust
device for use in an airplane, but for me the price was right and it seemed
to serve the purpose. If it didn't end up working, I didn't throw much $$
away finding out.
Sorry I don't have more details for you.
do not archive
)_( Dan
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: B&C SSF-1 finally died |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Chris,
Thanks for the data points. Last night I ordered the EL13A-2 from Midway.
I'm about to shine a light on my naivete... I bought the SSF-1 from B&C
because (a) Bob's wiring diagram that came with it was trivial to implement
(much appreciated, Bob!), and (b) it seemed like a fantastic price for a
truly "solid state" device. When I powered it up for the first time and
heard it clicking, I was a bit surprised. I realized it was
electro-mechanical. I don't really understand how the term "solid state"
applies here (I am naive to say the least).
The Tridon EL13A-2 *appears* to be the same or similar type of
electro-mechanical flasher relay as the SSF-1 but at a lower price. Yes,
I'm a cheapskate. The difference in price is half an hour of flying. Maybe
the Tridon will die, and maybe it will not last as long as the B&C. We'll
see!
Somebody on another forum mentioned using thermistors (I think) for limiting
inrush current, and possibly extending the life of the flasher. I don't
have the knowledge or understanding to experiment with this at this time.
do not archive
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand@earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: B&C SSF-1 finally died
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris & Kellie Hand"
> <ckhand@earthlink.net>
>
> Additional data:
>
> Trico lists the EL13A-2 flasher (B&C's SSF-1 if I read the part numbers
> correctly) as the one recommended for alternating head lamps with a
> service
> life of 400 hours:
> http://www.tricoproducts.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=289&location_id=129&go=preset210trico
>
> Trico lists the EL13A-1 flasher (the one at the midway link in Dan's
> email)
> as a 500 hour service life and lists the emergency flasher as recommended
> application but doesn't mention head lamps as a recommended application:
> http://www.tricoproducts.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=288&location_id=129&go=preset209trico
>
> I did find the EL13A-2 flasher on the midway web site for $12.99 and they
> list "wig-wag headlights" as the application :
> http://www.midwayautosupply.com/searchby.asp?txtSearch=TRI-EL13A-2
>
> Chris Hand
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand@earthlink.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 10:23 PM
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: B&C SSF-1 finally died
>
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris & Kellie Hand"
>> <ckhand@earthlink.net>
>>
>> Dan,
>> I installed mine (first one - zero hours) a couple weeks ago and wrote
>> down
>> the part identification info before gluing that side of the flasher to
>> the
>> mounting plate. Haven't tried any auto parts stores to see if they carry
>> a
>> replacement, but it was identified as:
>>
>> TRIDON EL13 A-2
>> ALT/FLASHER
>> 150 W/channel, +12 V
>> SAE J105
>> 1254C2
>>
>>
>> Chris Hand
>> RV-6A, N731CK (reserved)
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 10:10 AM
>> Subject: AeroElectric-List: B&C SSF-1 finally died
>>
>>
>>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
>>> <dan@rvproject.com>
>>>
>>> After 834 hobbs hours of nearly continuous use, my B&C SSF-1 wig-wag
>>> flasher
>>> died. I can either plunk down another $22 for a drop-in replacement, or
>>> I
>>> could explore cheaper options.
>>>
>>> I found a Trident auto flasher that *looks* pretty much identical, but
>>> they
>>> say it has a "Design Life" of 500 hours. If it's the same as the SSF-1,
>>> that would be one way to save about 9 bucks.
>>> http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?11850
>>>
>>> I'm not looking for anything fancy, like the CreativAir setup. I want a
>>> 3-wire (+12v, load 1, load 2) drop-in replacement. I wouldn't mind
>>> soldering it up myself but I don't have the expertise to "design" one.
>>> Will
>>> probably go with another B&C SSF-1, but would love to be able to
>>> solder-it-myself and/or save some bucks. Any ideas?
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance,
>>> )_( Dan
>>> RV-7 N714D (834 hours)
>>> http://www.rvproject.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: B&C SSF-1 finally died |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Dan -
I should have read the web site more closely. Thanks for the clue.
John Schroeder
DO NOT ARCHIVE
On Sun, 12 Mar 2006 09:53:16 -0800, Dan Checkoway <dan@rvproject.com>
wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
> <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>> How many did it take to get the 5 (pound?) discount.
>
> It was just a quantity thing. Based on the web site today it looks like
> if
> you order 5+ then you get the lower price.
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
>
>
--
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Annunciator Panel LED Brightness |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dennis Johnson" <pinetownd@volcano.net>
I'm fooling around with designing an annunciator panel with LEDs and bought a variety
from DigiKey to test. I found the following LEDs to be bright enough for
daylight use:
DigiKey # 404-1145-ND (Red)
Here's a photo of a green one:
http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Stanley/Web%20Photo/MU04-5102.jpg
Here's tech data (in the bottom section):
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T061/1750.pdf
As you can see, each light is a rectangle containing three LEDs behind a heavily
frosted panel. Although each of the three LEDs is rated at only 32 mcd (for
the red), they are plenty bright to illuminate the annunciator label.
By the way, here's my favorite for a panel flood light LED:
Photo: http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Lite-on/Web%20Photos/LTL-4238,LTL33BCWK5AT.jpg
Here's the data:
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T061/1756.pdf
It's listed at 4,800 mcd, and really throws out the light! The "white" ones are
more expensive, so I didn't test that many different ones, so there are others
that are likely better. But these will do the job for me.
Thanks again to all those who helped me learn about LEDs, resistors, and zener
diodes. It was fun to learn new things that I can put to use!
Dennis Johnson
Lancair Legacy (still wiring and wishing the weather was good enough to start painting)
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com
Thanks.
The reason I asked is I've been looking for a reliable, safe, alarm device
and I like DIY projects.
Since CO has no smell I think I need something that indicates reliably CO
over a threshold under harmful levels. Also a test/calibration method
simple enough and a test frequency schedule.
Rumen
do not archive
_____________________Original message __________________________
(received from Dan Checkoway; Date: 09:55 AM 3/12/2006
-0800)
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Dan, this looks like a nice kit. Do you have any info about the CO
> concentration threshold at which this kit triggers the alarm? Did any
> calibration instructions come with the kit?
> Rumen
No, it doesn't mention anything about the threshold, which is adjustable
anyway. A friend of mine who also bought one said at work he has access to
different gases in different concentrations and was going to run some tests.
I haven't heard from him.
To be honest, it looks more like a kid's educational kit than a robust
device for use in an airplane, but for me the price was right and it seemed
to serve the purpose. If it didn't end up working, I didn't throw much $$
away finding out.
Sorry I don't have more details for you.
do not archive
)_( Dan
--
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: B&C SSF-1 finally died |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
I do not have one of the B&C flashers, but I suspect that the "solid
state" refers to the circuitry controlling the internal relay. Really
old flashers were operated by a bimetallic strip - the current through
the bulbs caused a strip to heat up and switch. You could tell when one
of your turn signal bulbs died because the flasher would change the
flash speed with less current. Newer flashers (starting in the late
60's) had solid state circuitry to generate the "blinking" and an
internal relay to actually flash the high current lights.
It is a simple matter nowadays to design an "all solid state" flasher -
see Eric's site (http://www.periheliondesign.com/wigwagdmnl.htm).
Somewhat overkill, but you will never have to replace it.
do not archive
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Chris,
>
>Thanks for the data points. Last night I ordered the EL13A-2 from Midway.
>
>I'm about to shine a light on my naivete... I bought the SSF-1 from B&C
>because (a) Bob's wiring diagram that came with it was trivial to implement
>(much appreciated, Bob!), and (b) it seemed like a fantastic price for a
>truly "solid state" device. When I powered it up for the first time and
>heard it clicking, I was a bit surprised. I realized it was
>electro-mechanical. I don't really understand how the term "solid state"
>applies here (I am naive to say the least).
>
>The Tridon EL13A-2 *appears* to be the same or similar type of
>electro-mechanical flasher relay as the SSF-1 but at a lower price. Yes,
>I'm a cheapskate. The difference in price is half an hour of flying. Maybe
>the Tridon will die, and maybe it will not last as long as the B&C. We'll
>see!
>
>Somebody on another forum mentioned using thermistors (I think) for limiting
>inrush current, and possibly extending the life of the flasher. I don't
>have the knowledge or understanding to experiment with this at this time.
>
>do not archive
>)_( Dan
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand@earthlink.net>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 10:54 PM
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: B&C SSF-1 finally died
>
>
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris & Kellie Hand"
>><ckhand@earthlink.net>
>>
>>Additional data:
>>
>>Trico lists the EL13A-2 flasher (B&C's SSF-1 if I read the part numbers
>>correctly) as the one recommended for alternating head lamps with a
>>service
>>life of 400 hours:
>>http://www.tricoproducts.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=289&location_id=129&go=preset210trico
>>
>>Trico lists the EL13A-1 flasher (the one at the midway link in Dan's
>>email)
>>as a 500 hour service life and lists the emergency flasher as recommended
>>application but doesn't mention head lamps as a recommended application:
>>http://www.tricoproducts.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=288&location_id=129&go=preset209trico
>>
>>I did find the EL13A-2 flasher on the midway web site for $12.99 and they
>>list "wig-wag headlights" as the application :
>>http://www.midwayautosupply.com/searchby.asp?txtSearch=TRI-EL13A-2
>>
>>Chris Hand
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand@earthlink.net>
>>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 10:23 PM
>>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: B&C SSF-1 finally died
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris & Kellie Hand"
>>><ckhand@earthlink.net>
>>>
>>>Dan,
>>>I installed mine (first one - zero hours) a couple weeks ago and wrote
>>>down
>>>the part identification info before gluing that side of the flasher to
>>>the
>>>mounting plate. Haven't tried any auto parts stores to see if they carry
>>>a
>>>replacement, but it was identified as:
>>>
>>>TRIDON EL13 A-2
>>>ALT/FLASHER
>>>150 W/channel, +12 V
>>>SAE J105
>>>1254C2
>>>
>>>
>>>Chris Hand
>>>RV-6A, N731CK (reserved)
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>>>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>>>Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 10:10 AM
>>>Subject: AeroElectric-List: B&C SSF-1 finally died
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
>>>><dan@rvproject.com>
>>>>
>>>>After 834 hobbs hours of nearly continuous use, my B&C SSF-1 wig-wag
>>>>flasher
>>>>died. I can either plunk down another $22 for a drop-in replacement, or
>>>>I
>>>>could explore cheaper options.
>>>>
>>>>I found a Trident auto flasher that *looks* pretty much identical, but
>>>>they
>>>>say it has a "Design Life" of 500 hours. If it's the same as the SSF-1,
>>>>that would be one way to save about 9 bucks.
>>>>http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?11850
>>>>
>>>>I'm not looking for anything fancy, like the CreativAir setup. I want a
>>>>3-wire (+12v, load 1, load 2) drop-in replacement. I wouldn't mind
>>>>soldering it up myself but I don't have the expertise to "design" one.
>>>>Will
>>>>probably go with another B&C SSF-1, but would love to be able to
>>>>solder-it-myself and/or save some bucks. Any ideas?
>>>>
>>>>Thanks in advance,
>>>>)_( Dan
>>>>RV-7 N714D (834 hours)
>>>>http://www.rvproject.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
--
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: B&C SSF-1 finally died |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand@earthlink.net>
> The Tridon EL13A-2 *appears* to be the same or similar type of
> electro-mechanical flasher relay as the SSF-1 but at a lower price. Yes,
> I'm a cheapskate. The difference in price is half an hour of flying.
> Maybe
> the Tridon will die, and maybe it will not last as long as the B&C. We'll
> see!
I believe it's exactly the same flasher unit as the SSF-1 since the one I
got from B&C had "TRIDON EL13 A-2" stamped on the side I glued to the
mounting plate (can't see the writing anymore so can't reconfirm). I had
the same thoughts that I might be able to buy a replacement part if needed
at the local auto parts store, so wrote the part info on my wiring sketches
when I installed it.
Anybody have a B&C unit they haven't obscured the part numbers on? Would be
good to have a second check that I read/recorded the right numbers/letters.
Regards,
Chris Hand
RV-6A
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Cc: <jimdeb@charter.net>
| Subject: | Radio Noise-Starter switch?? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
From: Jim Lagowski
> I have some random radio noise I can't explain. It ranges from
> sharp"cracks' to static to every thing in between. Sometimes it is normal
> quiet. I have had the radio checked, and it's fine. I don't believe it is
> alternator related.
>
> I have a recollection of past correspondence re. the ACS starter switch as
> being a radio related problem. True?? Ant tips out there??
>
> Yours for warmer weather flying.
>
> Thanks in advance--Jim Lagowski
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Starter problem analysis |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Michael <jm@10squaredcorp.com>
Today I took it out for a trip around the pattern and checked it hot.
The battery voltage across the terminals while cranking was now
9.4-9.8 VDC versus about 1 VDC yesterday cold. I can turn the prop by
hand, so I don't think heat related binding of the engine is at
fault. I recharged the battery to provide the same starting point as
yesterday and checked the cranking voltage again and it's still below
10 VDC. I can measure 1 ohm resistance in the ground between the neg.
battery terminal and the engine ground strap. Starter casing was 130F
after shutdown.
Thanks for the input so far. I've been scratching my head trying to
think of a heat-related cause and trying to apply a systematic
approach to troubleshooting this problem so the correct part can be
replaced.
Jim
On Sunday 12 March 2006 17:03, Brian Lloyd wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd
> <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
>
> William wrote:
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William"
> > <wschertz@ispwest.com>
> >
> > Something else to check -- When the engine is hot, is it harder
> > to turn over by hand at the prop? The reason I ask is that a
> > local builder had this behavior, and it turned out that there was
> > an internal engine problem that made the engine bind when hot.
> > Just something to check.
>
> That is actually fairly normal. The cylinder walls cool and
> contract more rapidly than do the pistons. This reduces clearances
> and increases friction. It is worst about 10 minutes after shutdown
> or just about how long it takes to put fuel in the airplane at the
> self-serve pumps.
>
> Regardless, the starter should be able to rotate the engine at full
> speed even with this additional load, especially given the voltage
> numbers you are seeing. Your battery voltage is not sagging
> considerably under this load nor do your voltage drops appear
> unreasonable between battery and starter.
>
> What you did not mention is the voltage drop on the ground side of
> things. Place your voltmeter's positive lead on the starter case
> and negative on the negative pole of the battery and crank. You may
> be surprised at how much ground resistance you have. Check and fix
> that first before getting a new starter.
>
> OTOH, if you do all of this and find minimal losses, you are
> probably going to have to face the need for a new or rebuilt
> starter.
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Starter problem analysis |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Yesterday the guys on Car Talk, a National Public Radio program about cars,
discussed a similar problem with an aging Volvo, if I remember correctly.
The car would start fine cold but would hardly turn over hot. The verdict
was that the starter was wearing out and its resistance increased as it got
hotter. They said he could put ice on the starter to cool it off, or get a
new starter.
All for what it's worth, of course.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim
Michael
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Starter problem analysis
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Michael <jm@10squaredcorp.com>
Today I took it out for a trip around the pattern and checked it hot.
The battery voltage across the terminals while cranking was now
9.4-9.8 VDC versus about 1 VDC yesterday cold. I can turn the prop by
hand, so I don't think heat related binding of the engine is at
fault. I recharged the battery to provide the same starting point as
yesterday and checked the cranking voltage again and it's still below
10 VDC. I can measure 1 ohm resistance in the ground between the neg.
battery terminal and the engine ground strap. Starter casing was 130F
after shutdown.
Thanks for the input so far. I've been scratching my head trying to
think of a heat-related cause and trying to apply a systematic
approach to troubleshooting this problem so the correct part can be
replaced.
Jim
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Battery for ultralight aircraft |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Riley <richard@riley.net>
I'm finishing an ultralight with a Zenoah G25 2 stroke engine - about
22 hp. It came with a 12V electric starting system. When asked what
kind of battery was recommended, the distributor replied "oh, just
about any 3 or 4 amp." I assume that's amp hours, and bought a
sealed lead acid 3.5 A/H at the local electronics shop.
It doesn't turn the engine over. When freshly charged, voltage drops
to 4.3 while cranking. So, I figure I need another.
The configuration of the airframe makes it desirable for one
dimension - length or width, depending on how you look at it - to be
about 2". So I was looking at this one http://tinyurl.com/p3htu
Is there any way to tell if it has a reasonable peak cranking
output? Or, does anyone have a suggestion for another battery in
that size range?
TIA
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Starter problem analysis |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob McCallum" <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Jim;
The resistance from the battery terminal to the engine ground strap doesn't
tell a lot. What would help, is to measure the voltage drop between the
battery negative post and the casing of the starter itself while cranking.
(not the crankcase or ground strap, but the starter casing) All your
measurements so far sound fine but I haven't seen you measure the ground
path voltage drop yet, which the measurement described above will give you.
This shouldn't be heat related but you never know how expansion of something
may be affecting the tightness of something in the loop. The other telling
number is the voltage between the positive battery post and the main
terminal at the starter while cranking. (again not the cable or lug
connected to the starter but the starter post itself.) These two readings
may give a clue where to look for a fix. The other thing missing from your
readings to date are all the same readings cold. You can then compare hot
and cold readings and see if any one changes dramatically. You might be on
to something however if I interpret correctly what you say below, that where
you previously had < 1 Volt drop you now have ~9.5. This would indicate a
bad connection somewhere between the two points where that voltage was
measured. By the way your measurement points at the battery should be
specifically the post, not the lug or cable connected to it, in case that
connection is part of the problem.
Bob McC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Michael" <jm@10squaredcorp.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 12:43 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Starter problem analysis
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Michael
<jm@10squaredcorp.com>
>
> Today I took it out for a trip around the pattern and checked it hot.
> The battery voltage across the terminals while cranking was now
> 9.4-9.8 VDC versus about 1 VDC yesterday cold. I can turn the prop by
> hand, so I don't think heat related binding of the engine is at
> fault. I recharged the battery to provide the same starting point as
> yesterday and checked the cranking voltage again and it's still below
> 10 VDC. I can measure 1 ohm resistance in the ground between the neg.
> battery terminal and the engine ground strap. Starter casing was 130F
> after shutdown.
>
> Thanks for the input so far. I've been scratching my head trying to
> think of a heat-related cause and trying to apply a systematic
> approach to troubleshooting this problem so the correct part can be
> replaced.
>
> Jim
>
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
Good Evening Rumen,
This is going way off topic, but I thought I would mention it anyhow!
I believe having a Carbon Monoxide detector is a great idea, but you should
remember that one way to get rid of the CO danger is to operate on the lean
side of Peak Exhaust Gas Temperature. With a lean mixture, the CO level is so
low that there is no danger.
Consequently, if you do get a CO warning and you are operating on the rich
side, lean that hummer out!
Do Not Archive.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
In a message dated 3/12/2006 1:57:58 P.M. Central Standard Time,
rd2@evenlink.com writes:
Thanks.
The reason I asked is I've been looking for a reliable, safe, alarm device
and I like DIY projects.
Since CO has no smell I think I need something that indicates reliably CO
over a threshold under harmful levels. Also a test/calibration method
simple enough and a test frequency schedule.
Rumen
do not archive
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Starter problem analysis |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
Jim Michael wrote:
> fault. I recharged the battery to provide the same starting point as
> yesterday and checked the cranking voltage again and it's still below
> 10 VDC.
That is not bad. 10V is fine for a cranking load. It doesn't sound like
your battery is bad at all. Is this 10V at the starter or at the battery?
> I can measure 1 ohm resistance in the ground between the neg.
> battery terminal and the engine ground strap. Starter casing was 130F
> after shutdown.
You probably do not have a meter that will measure the ground
resistance. A one ohm resistance in the ground would show up as
virtually no voltage at the starter. It wouldn't even try to crank. In
fact, almost nothing would work right with 1 ohm of resistance between
the engine case and negative terminal of the battery.
The only way you are going to be able to measure the ground resistance
is to measure the voltage drop and know the current or use something
like Bob's micro-ohmmeter attachment to your DVM.
> Thanks for the input so far. I've been scratching my head trying to
> think of a heat-related cause and trying to apply a systematic
> approach to troubleshooting this problem so the correct part can be
> replaced.
I had the same problem in my Comanche not too long ago. It was the
battery. OTOH your battery seems not to have excessive voltage sag under
cranking load.
So please go back and measure your ground loss and/or verify voltage at
the starter (starter solenoid terminal to starter case). If you have 9V
there when the engine is cranking and the starter can barely turn over
the engine, either the engine is so bound up as to be impossible to turn
or your starter is bad.
--
Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way
brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Battery for ultralight aircraft |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
Richard Riley wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Riley <richard@riley.net>
>
> I'm finishing an ultralight with a Zenoah G25 2 stroke engine - about
> 22 hp. It came with a 12V electric starting system. When asked what
> kind of battery was recommended, the distributor replied "oh, just
> about any 3 or 4 amp." I assume that's amp hours, and bought a
> sealed lead acid 3.5 A/H at the local electronics shop.
>
> It doesn't turn the engine over. When freshly charged, voltage drops
> to 4.3 while cranking. So, I figure I need another.
You do need something larger. Make sure the one you get is an AGM
battery rather than a gel-cell. AGMs have much lower internal resistance
and will not exhibit the voltage drop when heavily loaded like a
gel-cell will.
--
Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way
brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Battery for ultralight aircraft |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
Richard Riley wrote:
> The configuration of the airframe makes it desirable for one
> dimension - length or width, depending on how you look at it - to be
> about 2". So I was looking at this one http://tinyurl.com/p3htu
Ah, I see that it is an AGM battery. It may work. It is still pretty
small tho'.
--
Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way
brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Starter problem analysis |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Michael <jm@10squaredcorp.com>
Typo on the battery voltage: 9.4-9.8 hot and 10.4 cold at the
terminals during cranking. I'll get those other voltage measurements
next time I'm at the airport. Thanks again for the suggestions.
Jim
On Sunday 12 March 2006 22:49, Bob McCallum wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob McCallum"
> <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
>
> Jim;
>
> The resistance from the battery terminal to the engine ground strap
> doesn't tell a lot. What would help, is to measure the voltage drop
> between the battery negative post and the casing of the starter
> itself while cranking. (not the crankcase or ground strap, but the
> starter casing) All your measurements so far sound fine but I
> haven't seen you measure the ground path voltage drop yet, which
> the measurement described above will give you. This shouldn't be
> heat related but you never know how expansion of something may be
> affecting the tightness of something in the loop. The other telling
> number is the voltage between the positive battery post and the
> main terminal at the starter while cranking. (again not the cable
> or lug connected to the starter but the starter post itself.) These
> two readings may give a clue where to look for a fix. The other
> thing missing from your readings to date are all the same readings
> cold. You can then compare hot and cold readings and see if any one
> changes dramatically. You might be on to something however if I
> interpret correctly what you say below, that where you previously
> had < 1 Volt drop you now have ~9.5. This would indicate a bad
> connection somewhere between the two points where that voltage was
> measured. By the way your measurement points at the battery should
> be specifically the post, not the lug or cable connected to it, in
> case that connection is part of the problem.
>
> Bob McC
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Michael" <jm@10squaredcorp.com>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 12:43 PM
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Starter problem analysis
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Michael
>
> <jm@10squaredcorp.com>
>
> > Today I took it out for a trip around the pattern and checked it
> > hot. The battery voltage across the terminals while cranking was
> > now 9.4-9.8 VDC versus about 1 VDC yesterday cold. I can turn the
> > prop by hand, so I don't think heat related binding of the engine
> > is at fault. I recharged the battery to provide the same starting
> > point as yesterday and checked the cranking voltage again and
> > it's still below 10 VDC. I can measure 1 ohm resistance in the
> > ground between the neg. battery terminal and the engine ground
> > strap. Starter casing was 130F after shutdown.
> >
> > Thanks for the input so far. I've been scratching my head trying
> > to think of a heat-related cause and trying to apply a systematic
> > approach to troubleshooting this problem so the correct part can
> > be replaced.
> >
> > Jim
>
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | SL70 transponder & Grand Rapids EFIS |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Listers,
I'm installing a UPSAT SL70 transponder with RS232 input from GRT EFIS. The
SL70 wants a two-wire shielded cable with shield attached to chassis of both.
One inner wire is "RxD serial input", while the other is "RS232 serial ground
out" The EFIS doesn't appear to have a pin for this, or should I just tie
into a common ground. This doesn't look right since the SL70 is grounded
anyway. I am puzzled....
Jerry Cochran
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died |
Cc: rd2@evenlink.com
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: chaztuna@adelphia.net
Rumen,
I did a group buy of these as well last year. I've built 3 of them. The sensitivity
is adjustable. There is an adjustable potentiometer on the board. There
is an LED for a visual warning as well as a relay. You can set the relay up to
trigger an audio alarm, or any other alarm you want.
Charlie Kuss
---- rd2@evenlink.com wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com
>
> Dan, this looks like a nice kit. Do you have any info about the CO
> concentration threshold at which this kit triggers the alarm? Did any
> calibration instructions come with the kit?
> Rumen
>
> _____________________Original message __________________________
> (received from Dan Checkoway; Date: 07:13 PM 3/11/2006
> -0800)
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > Which CO kit did you build? Where to get it? How much?
>
> http://www.electronic-kits-and-projects.com/4055.htm
>
> I did a group buy with a bunch of local RV builders, so we took advantage of
> the 5+ discount and the int'l shipping ended up being essentially
> negligible.
>
> Soldered it up and tested it with my truck exhaust, acetone vapor, etc. It
> seems to work as advertised, although I have to admit I haven't even
> installed it in the plane yet! (doh!)
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Annunciator panel LED brightness |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brinker" <brinker@cox-internet.com>
Very nice panel John.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Annunciator panel LED brightness
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder"
> <jschroeder@perigee.net>
>
> I used Mark's schematic, including the zener dimming, and it works great.
> I needed more lights and wanted larger ones, so I used NKK lamps and made
> an annunciator to fit in the stack.
>
> http://w1.lancair.net/pix/jschroeder-panel/Panel_Test_4
>
> Cheers,
>
> John
>
>
> On Sat, 11 Mar 2006 23:14:40 EST, <Fiveonepw@aol.com> wrote:
>
>> If you folks are really interested in a cheap (pretty sure I have less
>> than $30 in the thing), very effective annunciator panel, this has
>> worked out very well for me- after almost 300 hours I haven't missed a
>> single "annunciation" and couldn't be happier with the reliability,
>> brightness, or anything else for that matter of this very basic,
>> functional and easy to build project:
>
>
> --
>
>
>
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Starter problem analysis |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Michael <jm@10squaredcorp.com>
On Sunday 12 March 2006 23:19, Brian Lloyd wrote:
> That is not bad. 10V is fine for a cranking load. It doesn't sound
> like your battery is bad at all. Is this 10V at the starter or at
> the battery?
I was gettting 10.4 at the battery and 9.8 at the starter cold. I got
9.8 at the battery hot.
> I had the same problem in my Comanche not too long ago. It was the
> battery. OTOH your battery seems not to have excessive voltage sag
> under cranking load.
>
> So please go back and measure your ground loss and/or verify
> voltage at the starter (starter solenoid terminal to starter case).
> If you have 9V there when the engine is cranking and the starter
> can barely turn over the engine, either the engine is so bound up
> as to be impossible to turn or your starter is bad.
The fact that it was cranking cold seemed to rule out the bad ground,
but I'll take a look at that before having the starter replaced.
Jim
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Battery for ultralight aircraft |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 03:24 PM 3/12/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
>
>
>Richard Riley wrote:
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Riley <richard@riley.net>
> >
> > I'm finishing an ultralight with a Zenoah G25 2 stroke engine - about
> > 22 hp. It came with a 12V electric starting system. When asked what
> > kind of battery was recommended, the distributor replied "oh, just
> > about any 3 or 4 amp." I assume that's amp hours, and bought a
> > sealed lead acid 3.5 A/H at the local electronics shop.
> >
> > It doesn't turn the engine over. When freshly charged, voltage drops
> > to 4.3 while cranking. So, I figure I need another.
>
>You do need something larger. Make sure the one you get is an AGM
>battery rather than a gel-cell. AGMs have much lower internal resistance
>and will not exhibit the voltage drop when heavily loaded like a
>gel-cell will.
Another thing to look for is real TERMINALS that you can
bolt wires to. The skinny tabs for fast-on terminals are
not suitable for cranking currents. Unfortunately, folks
who built smaller batteries capable of cranking engines
generally don't install anything larger than fast-on tabs.
The smallest batteries I'm aware of that have treaded
terminals are:
http://www.bandc.biz/BC103-1.pdf
and the Odyssey PC310/PC535 described at:
http://www.enersysreservepower.com/documents/US-ODY-RS-002_0805.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Marketing research question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "richard titsworth" <rtitsworth@mindspring.com>
What triggers the "Nukes Armed" indicator???
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Morris "BigD"
Here's an example of how to fill up 24 slots:
http://www.myglasscockpit.com/AnnunciatorPanel.gif
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Annunciator panel LED brightness |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 03/12/2006 1:10:54 AM Central Standard Time,
mick-matronics@rv8.ch writes:
Very nice work. If I understand the drawing and the log entries,
you have set up two positions for the annunciator - bright and
dim - is this right?
Correct- the LED modules are deliberately overdriven a bit to make sure they
get my attention- They are plenty bright for daytime with the resistors
specified, but had to be choked down a bit at night. Don't worry, I tested these
modules at 12V for about 4 days continuous- they were pretty spectacular, but
didn't burn out.
Is the timer module to cause the low fuel lights to flash?
No, just a time delay before the LEDs come on. Same thing Bob was talking
about a few months ago- if you have a float switch in the tank, you don't want
it flashing constantly as the switch makes/breaks a hundred times before the
fuel level finally gets low enough that it doesn't keep tripping the switch-
this time is set up to not output (turn on the annunciator LED) until the float
switch has been OFF for a continuous 60 seconds. It rarely turns on and off
again, but definately tells me the tanks are down to about 6-7 gallons.
If you don't mind sending me the .dwg that would be great. I
can't quite read all the part numbers.
On it's way...
Mark do not archive
Message 40
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Battery for ultralight aircraft |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Brian Lloyd wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
>
>Richard Riley wrote:
>
>
>
>>The configuration of the airframe makes it desirable for one
>>dimension - length or width, depending on how you look at it - to be
>>about 2". So I was looking at this one http://tinyurl.com/p3htu
>>
>>
>
>Ah, I see that it is an AGM battery. It may work. It is still pretty
>small tho'.
>
>
>
What kind of terminals? The smaller batteries usually have 1/4" spade
lugs. If this one does, it might have a bit of a problem delivering
enough current through the terminals even if the battery's internal
impedance is low enough to supply starting current.
Message 41
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Electronic fuel gauges |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Roger Cole <rcole927@earthlink.net>
Does anyone have a source for electronic fuel gauges?
---
Roger Cole
Murphy Elite 709E
Starting to skin the first wing
Message 42
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Annunciator Panel LED Brightness |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 03/12/2006 1:20:48 PM Central Standard Time,
pinetownd@volcano.net writes:
As you can see, each light is a rectangle containing three LEDs behind a
heavily frosted panel. Although each of the three LEDs is rated at only 32 mcd
(for the red), they are plenty bright to illuminate the annunciator label.
>>>>>>
These are the ones I used on my panel and very pleased with the results-
Mark Phillips do not archive
Message 43
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Electronic fuel gauges |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mitchell Faatz <mitch@skybound.com>
Roger Cole wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Roger Cole <rcole927@earthlink.net>
>
> Does anyone have a source for electronic fuel gauges?
> ---
> Roger Cole
>
Yes, I never liked the look of the Electronics International fuel
gauges, and was *very* happy to see Aerospace Logic come out with what I
think is a much nicer looking gauge:
http://www.aerospacelogic.com
Their basic resistive model (0-300 Ohm) is the FL-100-R, the capactive
model (0-5v) is FL-100-5. They also have gauges for EGT, CHT, Manifold
pressure, clocks, volt & ammeter, etc. Nice stuff, and the people are
SUPER nice and supportive on the phone! Their fuel gauge also will
start blinking at 10% for a built in "low fuel" indicator. That value
is rounded up, so 21-29 gallon tanks would blink at 3 gallons, for instance.
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit Auburn, CA
Message 44
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: SL70 transponder & Grand Rapids EFIS |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
Jerry2DT@aol.com wrote:
> I'm installing a UPSAT SL70 transponder with RS232 input from GRT EFIS. The
> SL70 wants a two-wire shielded cable with shield attached to chassis of both.
Attach the shield at only one end. It is just a shield, not a ground or
return line.
> One inner wire is "RxD serial input", while the other is "RS232 serial ground
> out" The EFIS doesn't appear to have a pin for this, or should I just tie
> into a common ground. This doesn't look right since the SL70 is grounded
> anyway. I am puzzled....
Tie the "RS-232 ground out" on the SL70 to ground on the EFIS. Connect
the RS-232 data terminal on the SL70 to the RS-232 out on the EFIS. It
may be that the RS-232 input on the SL70 has its own floating ground
(perhaps opto-isolated) in order to eliminate ground loops.
--
Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way
brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Message 45
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Parts Source? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 07:36 AM 3/12/2006 +0000, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
>
> > 3/10/2006
> >
> > Hello Fellow Builders, I bring the below web site to your attention:
> >
> > http://www.emachineshop.com/
> >
> > I have no connection with or first hand knowledge of this company. I am,
> > however, absolutely astounded that they would list a capability to make
> > aircraft parts.
> >
> > Most companies, unless they are OEM's, PMA's, hold an STC, or cater to the
> > amateur built community ask you to leave as soon as you reveal that an
> > aircraft is involved in your inquiries.
> >
> > OC
Interesting find! Thank you. I've got some drawings I'll
send for quotations.
Bob . . .
Message 46
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Marketing research question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
A post from gmcjetpilot on IR Alternators...
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of richard
titsworth
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 8:31 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Marketing research question
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "richard titsworth"
<rtitsworth@mindspring.com>
What triggers the "Nukes Armed" indicator???
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Morris "BigD"
Here's an example of how to fill up 24 slots:
http://www.myglasscockpit.com/AnnunciatorPanel.gif
Message 47
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky |
Mountain Encoder
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
Gerry,
the rocky mountains encoder is a paralle encoder NOT a seriall one.
br Werner
Gerry Holland wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gholland@gemini-resourcing.com>
>
>Hi to al!
>
>I'm doing a bench shakedown on my Panel prior to fit in Aircraft.
>Results not too bad but SL70 Transponder encoding from Rocky Mountain
>Encoder not functioning.
>
>With the SL70 it's possible to view altitude as live function so I should
>have that facility at testing and operation on the bench.
>
>I've set both at serial and 1200 baud, checked all the serial connections
>(2!) so I guess I have a configuration problem.
>
>Any input from this worldwide council of experts greatly appreciated.
>
>Regards
>
>Gerry
>
>Europa XS
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 48
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re.SL70 Transponder with serial encoding from Rocky |
Mountain Encoder
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gholland@gemini-resourcing.com>
Werner Hi and thanks for the confirmation on Micro Encoder Output.
I found it out the hard way after trying to use Serial output meant for GPS
connection.
Speaking English doesn't mean you read it sensibly!!
All is working well with Gray Code encoding.
Regards
Gerry
Do not archive
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|