Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:10 AM - Re: Annunciator panel LED brightness (Peter Laurence)
2. 04:12 AM - Re: Electronic fuel gauges (Peter Laurence)
3. 07:29 AM - Re: CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
4. 07:29 AM - Re: CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
5. 07:41 AM - CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died (rd2@evenlink.com)
6. 08:45 AM - Anyone hear of a CO monitor for mixture? ()
7. 08:46 AM - Re: Annunciator panel LED brightness (Bill Dube)
8. 10:25 AM - Re: Anyone hear of a CO monitor for mixture? (Gilles Thesee)
9. 05:00 PM - Resistor Instead of Fusible Link? (Dennis Johnson)
10. 06:03 PM - Re: Thank YOU, no OV worries with I-VR ever! (inexpensively!) ()
11. 07:39 PM - Re: Electronic fuel gauges (Roger Cole)
12. 08:01 PM - Re: Resistor Instead of Fusible Link? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 08:03 PM - Re: Resistor Instead of Fusible Link? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
14. 08:29 PM - Re: Re: Thank YOU, no OV worries with I-VR ever! (inexpensively!) (Matt Prather)
15. 08:29 PM - Re: Radio Noise-Starter switch?? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 10:46 PM - Watsonville Seminar (John McMahon)
17. 11:35 PM - Re: Re: Thank YOU, no OV worries with I-VR ever! (inexpensively!) (Roberto Giusti)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Annunciator panel LED brightness |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Peter Laurence" <PLaurence@the-beach.net>
John,
I sent Mark an email on his web site for the dwg drawing but did not receive
an answer.
Would you send me the file?
Peter
RV9A fuse
> I used Mark's schematic, including the zener dimming, and it works great.
> I needed more lights and wanted larger ones, so I used NKK lamps and made
> an annunciator to fit in the stack.
>
> http://w1.lancair.net/pix/jschroeder-panel/Panel_Test_4
>
> Cheers,
>
> John
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Electronic fuel gauges |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Peter Laurence" <PLaurence@the-beach.net>
Mitch
Thanks for the info. Nice instruments.
Peter
Do not archive
>
Yes, I never liked the look of the Electronics International fuel
gauges, and was *very* happy to see Aerospace Logic come out with what I
think is a much nicer looking gauge:
http://www.aerospacelogic.com
Their basic resistive model (0-300 Ohm) is the FL-100-R, the capactive
model (0-5v) is FL-100-5. They also have gauges for EGT, CHT, Manifold
pressure, clocks, volt & ammeter, etc. Nice stuff, and the people are
SUPER nice and supportive on the phone! Their fuel gauge also will
start blinking at 10% for a built in "low fuel" indicator. That value
is rounded up, so 21-29 gallon tanks would blink at 3 gallons, for instance.
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit Auburn, CA
Message 3
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| Subject: | CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
If anyone needs these units calibrated I have access to an industrial CO
monitor that is regularly calibrated. I would be happy to calibrate one
or more of these units (especially if someone could get me a discount on
one..ha ha..:)..).
If there are a buch of you in one locale I could do one and the rest of
you could calibrate to that...Should be a simple jobe once I have the
meter though so I am happy to do them.
My shop propane heater gives CO in about the right range so it should be
easy for me.
Let me know
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
chaztuna@adelphia.net
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 4:01 PM
Cc: rd2@evenlink.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: chaztuna@adelphia.net
Rumen,
I did a group buy of these as well last year. I've built 3 of them. The
sensitivity is adjustable. There is an adjustable potentiometer on the
board. There is an LED for a visual warning as well as a relay. You can
set the relay up to trigger an audio alarm, or any other alarm you want.
Charlie Kuss
Message 4
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| Subject: | CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
What an xcellent point Old Bob..I hadn't thought of that!
Frank
RV7a...Final engine wiring...Then paint!..Oh yeah and sell my Zodiac..:(
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BobsV35B@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 3:21 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
Good Evening Rumen,
This is going way off topic, but I thought I would mention it anyhow!
I believe having a Carbon Monoxide detector is a great idea, but you
should remember that one way to get rid of the CO danger is to operate
on the lean side of Peak Exhaust Gas Temperature. With a lean mixture,
the CO level is so low that there is no danger.
Consequently, if you do get a CO warning and you are operating on the
rich side, lean that hummer out!
Do Not Archive.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
In a message dated 3/12/2006 1:57:58 P.M. Central Standard Time,
rd2@evenlink.com writes:
Thanks.
The reason I asked is I've been looking for a reliable, safe, alarm
device and I like DIY projects.
Since CO has no smell I think I need something that indicates reliably
CO over a threshold under harmful levels. Also a test/calibration
method simple enough and a test frequency schedule.
Rumen
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | CO kit / was B&C SSF-1 finally died |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com
Thanks, Bob.
Contacting you off-list on this.
Rumen
do not archive
_____________________Original message __________________________
(received from BobsV35B@aol.com; Date: 06:21 PM 3/12/2006
EST)
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
Good Evening Rumen,
This is going way off topic, but I thought I would mention it anyhow!
I believe having a Carbon Monoxide detector is a great idea, but you should
remember that one way to get rid of the CO danger is to operate on the lean
side of Peak Exhaust Gas Temperature. With a lean mixture, the CO level
is so
low that there is no danger.
Consequently, if you do get a CO warning and you are operating on the rich
side, lean that hummer out!
Do Not Archive.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
Message 6
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| Subject: | Anyone hear of a CO monitor for mixture? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
I have a turbo charged Rotax 914.
Rotax reccomends if you change the intake track, you must make sure that
it does not effect the area of higher pressure impact air used to enrich
during operations above 108% power.
The way they want you to check is to monitor 4 cylinders for Carbon
Monoxide content.
Has anyone used one?
Have one?
Knows where to get one?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Annunciator panel LED brightness |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bill Dube <william.p.dube@noaa.gov>
There really is no need for a fancy electronic circuit to dim LEDs.
If you simply put a "ballast" resistor in series to limit the current,
you can dim them with the rest of your panel lights.
Typically, LEDs draw 20 mA for full brightness. (Look on the spec
sheet to be sure) For a red LED in a 13.8 volt system to calculate the
resistor value:
R = (13.8-2)/0.020 = 590 ohms. You would pick a 620 ohm resistor
because 590 ohms is not a standard value.
A 1/2 watt resistor would be prudent, but a 1/4 watt might do
W=(13.8-2)*0.02 = 0.24 W
For a 30 mA high-power white LED the calculations would be:
R=(13.8-3.4)/0.030=347 Ohms. You would pick 360 ohms because it is a
standard value.
A 1/2 watt resistor would be required W=(13.8-3.4)*0.03 = 0.35 W
If you reduce the voltage supplied to the LED and ballast resistor,
it will dim a lot like an ordinary incandescent light. You can do this
with an ordinary rheostat. You can be a bit more clever and do it with
an LM317.
http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/LM317-D.PDF
This is a $0.35 part from www.digikey.com. You don't need the
capacitors shown in the circuit for this application.
You can be VERY clever and put a photo transistor in place of R1 to
make the light dim automatically.
Bill Dube'
Peter Laurence wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Peter Laurence" <PLaurence@the-beach.net>
>
>John,
>
>I sent Mark an email on his web site for the dwg drawing but did not receive
>an answer.
>
>Would you send me the file?
>
>Peter
>RV9A fuse
>
>
>
>>I used Mark's schematic, including the zener dimming, and it works great.
>>I needed more lights and wanted larger ones, so I used NKK lamps and made
>>an annunciator to fit in the stack.
>>
>>http://w1.lancair.net/pix/jschroeder-panel/Panel_Test_4
>>
>>Cheers,
>>
>>John
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Anyone hear of a CO monitor for mixture? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US a crit :
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
>I have a turbo charged Rotax 914.
>
>Rotax reccomends if you change the intake track, you must make sure that
>it does not effect the area of higher pressure impact air used to enrich
>during operations above 108% power.
>
>The way they want you to check is to monitor 4 cylinders for Carbon
>Monoxide content.
>
>Has anyone used one?
>Have one?
>Knows where to get one?
>
>
Ron,
Have a look at the Gastester made by Gunson. There are two models.
http://eastwood.resultspage.com/search?p=Q&ts=custom&w=gastester&submit.x=39&submit.y=13&submit=Search
You need to make a threaded adaptor, with a small piece of stainless
steel tubing, and screw it into each of the the pipes in sequence, take
off at 115 % power with a "flight engineer" operating the Gastester.
Find the pipe with the lowest CO, then turn the pressure pickup a few
degrees, take off again, then determine the correct position by trial
and error etc.
The French Rotax importer never did the test.
Our kit manufacturer, Dyn'Aero did not do it with their intercooled
prototype, and said they are not intending to.
Please keep us posted.
FWIW,
Regards,
Gilles Thesee
Grenoble, France
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 9
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| Subject: | Resistor Instead of Fusible Link? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dennis Johnson" <pinetownd@volcano.net>
Greetings,
I've been planning to use fusible links as Bob suggests to protect skinny wires
leading to warning lights. For example, I'll have a "Starter Engaged" warning
light connected to the starter relay and need something to protect the 22 AWG
wire that goes to the warning light.
However, since the warning light will be an LED, and since the LED requires a dropping
resistor, can I use the dropping resistor instead of the fusible link?
I would install the resistor at the same location I would have installed the
fusible link.
The resistors I would use have solid wire leads on both ends. How would I connect
it to a starter relay without encountering problems from the vibration work-hardening
the solid lead and causing it to break? A couple of layer of heat
shrink? Put it a few inches downstream of the relay and secure it to nearby
wires?
Thanks,
Dennis Johnson
Legacy (nearly finished with my wire book)
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Thank YOU, no OV worries with I-VR ever! (inexpensively!) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Here is a great deal, for all those worried about OV with internal
voltage regulators, worry no more.
Thank goodness, some one finally did it!!!!
Yea, at $375, complete kit w/ OV protection that BLOWS everything
away. Yea! I am so happy :-)
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=39043&posted=1#post39043
B&C better lower their price to get realistic, in my humble opinion.
B&C L-60 & LRC3C: $823 (boss mount), $913 (case mount).
That is $448 and $538 MORE! than Van's new alternator!!!!!
That's a price factor of TIMES 2.19 and 2.34, well over double
between B&C and the plane power unit.
I always dis-liked B&C price gouge for the "case" mount. Why?
Does a bracket cost $80 more? However this a free market and
what the market will bear. God Bless America. (Please send any
anti-American comments to me directly. We are taking about two
American companies and was not meant to exclude or as a slight
against the other countries or the world.)
I am not against B&C and think they make a great product, but
I they have priced themselves out of the market. This is my opinion
based on my personal judgment. Feel free to disagree and tell me
why you think B&C products are not over priced.
Here are some other related links of interest:
http://www.plane-power.com/Bit3.htm
http://www.plane-power.com/images/Brochure%20EXP%2060.pdf
http://www.plane-power.com/Bit1.htm
http://www.plane-power.com/Bit2.htm
I think the plane power answers the problem. With the lower price
thru Van's aircraft this is a clear winner. Am I wrong?
Is there some technical reason that a $375 alternator with solid
OV protection, simple installation is not a better choice than a
E-VR B&C alternator/regulator at over twice the cost?
As a side note Plane Power recommends cooling air. I also
would suggest connecting the warning light.
Cheers George lol
(I know what you are thinking, shame shame.)
---------------------------------
Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Electronic fuel gauges |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Roger Cole <rcole927@earthlink.net>
Thanks to all who replied. The info was helpful.
do not archive
On Mar 12, 2006, at 9:14 PM, Roger Cole wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Roger Cole
> <rcole927@earthlink.net>
>
> Does anyone have a source for electronic fuel gauges?
> ---
> Roger Cole
> Murphy Elite 709E
> Starting to skin the first wing
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Resistor Instead of Fusible Link? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 04:52 PM 3/13/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dennis Johnson"
><pinetownd@volcano.net>
>
>Greetings,
>
>I've been planning to use fusible links as Bob suggests to protect skinny
>wires leading to warning lights. For example, I'll have a "Starter
>Engaged" warning light connected to the starter relay and need something
>to protect the 22 AWG wire that goes to the warning light.
>
>However, since the warning light will be an LED, and since the LED
>requires a dropping resistor, can I use the dropping resistor instead of
>the fusible link? I would install the resistor at the same location I
>would have installed the fusible link.
>The resistors I would use have solid wire leads on both ends. How would I
>connect it to a starter relay without encountering problems from the
>vibration work-hardening the solid lead and causing it to break? A couple
>of layer of heat shrink? Put it a few inches downstream of the relay and
>secure it to nearby wires?
Good thinking. It's commonly done . . .
See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/In_Line_Resistor/In_Line_Resistor_1.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/In_Line_Resistor/In_Line_Resistor_2.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/In_Line_Resistor/In_Line_Resistor_3.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/In_Line_Resistor/In_Line_Resistor_4.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/In_Line_Resistor/In_Line_Resistor_5.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/In_Line_Resistor/In_Line_Resistor_6.jpg
Note that LEDs are relatively fragile devices with respect
to short reverse voltage transients. Suggest you add a 1N4001
in parallel with an LED that's connected directly to high
power, somewhat inductive gizmo like a starter motor.
Bob . . .
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Resistor Instead of Fusible Link? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 03/13/2006 7:02:23 PM Central Standard Time,
pinetownd@volcano.net writes:
However, since the warning light will be an LED, and since the LED requires a
dropping resistor, can I use the dropping resistor instead of the fusible
link? I would install the resistor at the same location I would have installed
the fusible link.
>>>
Not to say this won't work, but just for kix&gigglz, why not take the
resistor/wire/LED circuit you propose, rig it up to a fully charged battery, then
short across the LED to simulate the feed wire going to ground. This would be
one way to test what you propose. Please take appropriate measures to ensure
personal safety and let us know the results...
Proof is hidden somewhere deep in the depths of pudding...
Mark do not archive
PS- I have a starter engaged LED on my annunciator, but chose to feed it with
18 ga wire using a 22 ga fuselink at the starter contactor-
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Thank YOU, no OV worries with I-VR ever! (inexpensively!) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
People will pay what the product is worth to them.. If a truly better
value comes along, the market will change. Ain't America great!
If B&C has been gouging, it seems surprising that an equivalent but
significantly less expensive alternative has not made it to market sooner.
Matt-
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>
> Here is a great deal, for all those worried about OV with internal
> voltage regulators, worry no more.
>
> Thank goodness, some one finally did it!!!!
>
> Yea, at $375, complete kit w/ OV protection that BLOWS everything
> away. Yea! I am so happy :-)
>
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=39043&posted=1#post39043
>
> B&C better lower their price to get realistic, in my humble opinion.
>
> B&C L-60 & LRC3C: $823 (boss mount), $913 (case mount).
> That is $448 and $538 MORE! than Van's new alternator!!!!!
>
> That's a price factor of TIMES 2.19 and 2.34, well over double
> between B&C and the plane power unit.
>
> I always dis-liked B&C price gouge for the "case" mount. Why?
> Does a bracket cost $80 more? However this a free market and
> what the market will bear. God Bless America. (Please send any
> anti-American comments to me directly. We are taking about two
> American companies and was not meant to exclude or as a slight
> against the other countries or the world.)
>
> I am not against B&C and think they make a great product, but
> I they have priced themselves out of the market. This is my opinion
> based on my personal judgment. Feel free to disagree and tell me why
> you think B&C products are not over priced.
>
> Here are some other related links of interest:
> http://www.plane-power.com/Bit3.htm
> http://www.plane-power.com/images/Brochure%20EXP%2060.pdf
> http://www.plane-power.com/Bit1.htm
> http://www.plane-power.com/Bit2.htm
>
> I think the plane power answers the problem. With the lower price
> thru Van's aircraft this is a clear winner. Am I wrong?
>
> Is there some technical reason that a $375 alternator with solid OV
> protection, simple installation is not a better choice than a E-VR
> B&C alternator/regulator at over twice the cost?
>
> As a side note Plane Power recommends cooling air. I also
> would suggest connecting the warning light.
>
>
> Cheers George lol
> (I know what you are thinking, shame shame.)
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze.
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Radio Noise-Starter switch?? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 03:55 PM 3/12/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
>
>
>From: Jim Lagowski
>
> > I have some random radio noise I can't explain. It ranges from
> > sharp"cracks' to static to every thing in between. Sometimes it is normal
> > quiet. I have had the radio checked, and it's fine. I don't believe it is
> > alternator related.
> >
> > I have a recollection of past correspondence re. the ACS starter switch as
> > being a radio related problem. True?? Ant tips out there??
> >
> > Yours for warmer weather flying.
The only hassle I'm aware of concerning the ACS/Bendix OFF/L/R/BOTH/START
switch has to do with internal contact erosion due to the
collapse of the magnetic field in a modern high-force starter
contactor or two stage starter contactor. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf
I can't imagine how this switch would have any radio
noise issues.
Bob . . .
Message 16
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| Subject: | Watsonville Seminar |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John McMahon" <blackoaks@gmail.com>
>
> There are only a couple days left to sign up for Bob's Watsonville,
> CA Seminar in April. He needs 20 and there are not enough yet! I need the
> information so I hope a few more of us sign up so he won't have to cancel
> the seminar! Purely selfish promotion on my part!!!! Any takers? Here is
> the link http://aeroelectric.com/seminars/Watsonville.html
>
> --
> John McMahon
>
Lancair Super ES
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Thank YOU, no OV worries with I-VR ever! (inexpensively!) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Roberto Giusti <roby@mail.com>
I was considering a plane power alternator, but they seemed to be a
little expensive at $569.00
I had decided to buy one from Aircraft spruce at $510.00
but the I saw this new alternator on Van's site at $375.00
I called Van's to get some specs and they told me it was the Plane Power
AL12-EI60/B.
Great price!!!
....And the fans turn the right way too!
Regards,
Roberto Giusti
(RV-8 in Italy)
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>
> Here is a great deal, for all those worried about OV with internal
> voltage regulators, worry no more.
>
> Thank goodness, some one finally did it!!!!
>
> Yea, at $375, complete kit w/ OV protection that BLOWS everything
> away. Yea! I am so happy :-)
>
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