Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:20 AM - KR 87 (Richard Garforth)
2. 05:45 AM - Backup fuel injection (was Z-19) (Ken)
3. 05:47 AM - Re: Landing Light Circuit? (Eric M. Jones)
4. 06:49 AM - Backup fuel injection (was Z-19) (BobsV35B@aol.com)
5. 07:07 AM - Re: Backup fuel injection (was Z-19) (Ken)
6. 08:09 AM - Re: redundant fuel delivery (was Z-19 questions) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 09:27 AM - Re: Headset and Mic Connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 09:46 AM - Why is wire plated? ()
9. 10:07 AM - Re: Why is wire plated? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 01:00 PM - Silicone wire ()
11. 01:34 PM - Re: Re: Z-19 questions (John Burnaby)
12. 05:57 PM - Any merit using a capacitor with ND alternator? ()
13. 06:17 PM - NiCads (Alex Peterson)
14. 06:50 PM - Re: NiCads (Vern Little)
15. 07:18 PM - Re: NiCads (Brian Lloyd)
16. 08:24 PM - Re: Any merit using a capacitor with ND alternator? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 10:03 PM - Re: Batt Charger/voltmeter/ammeter/temp (Speedy11@aol.com)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard Garforth" <richard@hawk.flyer.co.uk>
Has anyone a copy of the KR 87 install manual that they could Email me please ?
Richard
RV10
Message 2
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Subject: | Backup fuel injection (was Z-19) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
John
Sure one injector will do it. That is how a carbuerator and countless
throttle body injected cars run. While not absolutely necessary, with
only one injector, it is usually positioned upstream of the throttle
butterfly for good mixing which was difficult for me so I welded in four
more ports for 4 used port injectors like newer cars do. The airflow is
usually down into a throttle body injected engine which simplifies some
things like fire risk. If you go to the megasquirt site
http://www.megasquirt.info/v22manual/mtabcon.htm
you will find hundreds of pages of info on the megasquirt computer and
how it operates written for the many hundreds of neophytes that have
built and installed it on just about every type of gas engine that
exists. Better than most books on the subject. And several very active
user groups to peruse or ask questions. I wouldn't bet my life on it but
that little computer is totally adequate to control a backup fuel
injection system if you are willing to invest the time to learn about it
and save the cost of purchasing a second off the shelf system. I
understand when someone says the primary system is orders of magnitude
more reliable than the engine but that is not true for all the sensors,
my wiring, or an overheated part that was not installed in the best place.
Just before we take this off list (it is a bit off topic) I totally
agree with Bob's post on fuel starvation. I installed a 2 gallon gravity
fed header tank with a float switch in it to warn if it is ever not full.
Ken
John Burnaby wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Burnaby" <jonlaury@impulse.net>
>
>Ken,
>
>I'm intrigued. Could one just put a single injector squirting into the intake
plenum? What takes the sensor signals and fires it? Just remember, you're talking
to an electro-phobe.
>
>Thanks,
>John
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Landing Light Circuit? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Hi Ron,
I can categorically state that an inductor of any use in a landing light circuit
would weigh more than a watermellon. I think you are looking for an NTC thermistor
to limit inrush current.
These are little quarter-size parts that have a higher resistance when cold and
a lower resistance when hot. Most thermistor makers have these. Digikey has p/n
KC022L. When cold the part is 0.7 ohms and when hot it is 0.02 ohms (1/35th
as resistive). This lowers the filament thermal shock considerably.
It is important to realize that the part runs HOT. Make no attempt to cool it off.
It wants to be mounted in still air, probably on the back of the lamp itself.
The "keep-alive" lamp current technique uses power that could be better used elsewhere,
but this is a personal choice. It is easy to make a soft-start switch
in solid state too.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=22617#22617
Message 4
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Subject: | Backup fuel injection (was Z-19) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
Good Morning Ken and John,
Some fifty plus years ago, I had a friend who was doing a lot of IFR flying
in a Cessna 170.
He had experienced a few problems with fuel feed. Plugged filters and such.
His back up answer (long before the FAA came into existence and the CAA
didn't bother GA as much as the FAA does now) was to place a "T" fitting at the
outflow of the left main fuel tank. From there he ran a one-eighth inch
copper line to the carburetor via a small needle valve mounted on the control
panel. That line was fastened to a small fitting that he had inserted in the
carburetor throat just down stream from the butterfly valve. He could stop the
fuel from the normal system by turning off the fuel valve, open his auxiliary
needle valve and control the power quite well by using the throttle valve to
control airflow and the needle valve to control fuel. That setup bypassed
almost all of the areas with which he had experienced difficulties.
More than one way to skin a cat!
Do Not Archive
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
In a message dated 3/19/2006 7:47:30 A.M. Central Standard Time,
klehman@albedo.net writes:
Sure one injector will do it. That is how a carburetor and countless
throttle body injected cars run. While not absolutely necessary, with
only one injector, it is usually positioned upstream of the throttle
butterfly for good mixing which was difficult for me so I welded in four
more ports for 4 used port injectors like newer cars do.
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Backup fuel injection (was Z-19) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Yes I understand there were a number of such systems fitted. I've also
heard that there were about as many problems caused by guys training
(playing with it) as there were saves because of it. I guess some guys
have even used a primer system with success. Since a manual system would
have limited use on takeoff or on approach I decided to go with
something a little more sophisticated.
Ken
BobsV35B@aol.com wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>
>
>
>Good Morning Ken and John,
>
>Some fifty plus years ago, I had a friend who was doing a lot of IFR flying
>in a Cessna 170.
>
>He had experienced a few problems with fuel feed. Plugged filters and such.
>
>
>His back up answer (long before the FAA came into existence and the CAA
>didn't bother GA as much as the FAA does now) was to place a "T" fitting at
the
>outflow of the left main fuel tank. From there he ran a one-eighth inch
>copper line to the carburetor via a small needle valve mounted on the control
>panel. That line was fastened to a small fitting that he had inserted in the
>carburetor throat just down stream from the butterfly valve. He could stop the
>fuel from the normal system by turning off the fuel valve, open his auxiliary
>needle valve and control the power quite well by using the throttle valve to
>control airflow and the needle valve to control fuel. That setup bypassed
>almost all of the areas with which he had experienced difficulties.
>
>More than one way to skin a cat!
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>Happy Skies,
>
>Old Bob
>AKA
>Bob Siegfried
>Ancient Aviator
>Stearman N3977A
>Brookeridge Air Park LL22
>Downers Grove, IL 60516
>630 985-8503
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: redundant fuel delivery (was Z-19 questions) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 06:23 PM 3/18/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
>
>John
>
>The advice to not make a primary system less reliable by adding backups
>that could compromise it is good advice. However if you want a second
>system, an independant second system can certainly be installed that
>does not have any common failure points or share items with the primary
>system. Ideally neither system should know that the other exists.
>
>For example a backup efi might be a homemade megasquirt unit that shares
>no sensors, wiring, injectors, etc. with the primary system. The
>throttle sensor can be eliminated since airplane throttles are opened
>slowly. The engine temperature sensor could be eliminated because the
>engine will already be warm if the backup is needed. So a minimum system
>needs a crank or cam sensor for rpm, a MAP sensor which is onboard the
>$150. ish megasquirt, an inlet air temp sensor, one or more additional
>injectors, an independant power source and a separate power switch. I'm
>sure you already have a second fuel pump. A lot of reliability concerns
>go away with the ability to just select another system.
Exactly! Here's a post I made some years ago on that same
topic suggesting an even simpler way to craft independent
fuel delivery systems to on engine using stock hardware, no
modifications to the engine and a simple, easy to implement
procedure:
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Fuel system failure . . .
Sender: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
>
>in regards to the fuel primer , what do you mean by primary system failure?
>is this where you would be using a fuel flow meter with the vane paddles in
>it ? they do warn to have a bypass in a system like this. i have used
>two different types of electric primers that i put together , worked great
>and were cheap. if you want i could tell you how i did it .........marty
Some years ago(I believe I may have written about the
idea in my first issue of the AeroElectric Connection)
I suggested that builders consider a backup fuel delivery
system. I opined that it was pretty easy to do . . . in
fact, lots of certified airplanes are already fitted with
a rudimentary backup system.
DataPoint 1:
I've read dozens of hangar flying stories over the years
where a pilot suffered a variety of normal fuel delivery
system failures (broken throttle linkage, stuck float
in carb, plugged fuel lines, etc) and managed to nurse
his airplane to a comfortable landing by stroking the
primer pump.
DataPoint 2:
I connected these stories with a system I observed
on the Beech Skipper (BE-77) in which I took my primary
training. To prime the engine, one pressed in on the
key while cranking. This closes an extra set of contacts
in the key switch opening a solenoid valve that routes
fuel from the downstream side of the boost pump to the
primer lines. This made sure that the cranking motor
was turning as raw fuel was fed to the engine.
This improves vaporization efficiency because the engine
is ingesting air while priming fuel is flowing.
DataPoint 3:
The so called fuel injected engines found on airplanes
is very rudimentary when compared with modern EFI systems
on automobiles but is technically elegant with respect
to complexity. They simply deliver a calibrated pressure
flow of fuel to a nozzle located just outside the intake
valve of each cylinder.
DataPoint 4:
I've noted that some engines don't prime all cylinders,
to make the backup delivery system work, you'd want to have
fuel delivered to every cylinder. Other primers dump fuel
into the carburetor which is fine too (More modern EFI
engines might have a single nozzle dump fuel into the
airflow just outside the throttle plate).
Proposal:
Borrowing from the electrically controlled primer system
found on the BE-77 and perhaps other airplanes, how about
putting a valve in the primer line that allows calibration
of primer fuel flow to some rate commensurate with 60-70%
power. A needle valve would work.
Arrange to supply power to the boost pump and open the
solenoid valve by the proper placement of switches in the
cockpit. If one wanted to take redundancy to a logical
limit, I'd put a separate finger strainer in a tank and
supply the primer system with it's own electric pump.
Now, should one find himself airborne with no way to get
fuel to the engine through the normal delivery path, you
would shut off the normal delivery system (valves closed,
pump off, mixture to idle cutoff) and flip the primer
switch on. The throttle then becomes a mixture control.
Adjust throttle for best running engine.
See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/NoValve.gif
The reasoning here is that a simple enhancement to a
stock primer system would provide an on-purpose backup
to the normal fuel delivery system.
Several years after I first proposed this system, a
LongEz driver e-mailed me to say that his airplane
suffered a frozen fuel selector valve and the handle
broke off with the valve in a position that wouldn't
allow delivery of useful fuel. The calibrated primer
backup system did the job and he continued flight for
over 30 minutes to an uneventful landing at an
airport.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------------
( "Imagination is more important than knowledge. )
( It is a miracle that curiosity survives formal )
( education" )
( Albert Einstein )
--------------------------------------------------
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Headset and Mic Connections |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 01:19 PM 3/18/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: SMITHBKN@aol.com
>
>I ordered some headset and mic jacks from B&C Specialty. Are the
>connections to these supposed to be soldered? If so, is there a standard
>practice used
>to attach the wire to the solder tabs on the jacks? The solder tabs have a
>small diameter hole in them.
See:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Jack_Tab_Soldering/Jack_Tab_Soldering.html
Bob . . .
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
Message 8
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Subject: | Why is wire plated? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Sorry if this is a second post, first gave came back with a wierd error.
Why is wire common found on aerocraft plated?
What are advantages/disadvantages?
What material is the plating?
I want to use a short length of #12 with silicone insulation common to
model electrics in the cockpit for it's ability to carry amps and remain
very flexable (a gazillion strands of copper no plating).
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Why is wire plated? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 05:44 PM 3/19/2006 +0000, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
>Sorry if this is a second post, first gave came back with a wierd error.
>
>Why is wire common found on aerocraft plated?
>
>What are advantages/disadvantages?
>
>What material is the plating?
>
>I want to use a short length of #12 with silicone insulation common to
>model electrics in the cockpit for it's ability to carry amps and remain
>very flexable (a gazillion strands of copper no plating).
Primary reason is to maintain conditions conducive to
joining the wire. Bare copper will corrode and make soldering
difficult. Corrosion also introduces contaminants into
a crimped joint where clean, gas-tight joining is a goal.
If you use new, un-plated wire and it's nice and bright
before soldering or crimping, the material will be just
fine for your project.
Similarly, welding cable with super flexibility and low
cost is attractive for many fat wires in an airplane. This
wire is also fabricated from bare copper that's entirely
suited to the task if bright and clean at time of assembly.
I'm not familiar with "model electrics". I'm also curious
as to popular use of silicone insulation. If I were
to go on a shopping trip for silicone insulated wire, I'm
not sure I could find any in Wichita beyond that which is
offered on spark plug wires. It's not an insulation we
commonly see on spools of wire intended for point to point
interconnections. Can you enlighten us further?
Bob . . .
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
Message 10
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Hello Bob
"I'm not familiar with "model electrics". I'm also curious as to popular
use of silicone insulation"
Model Electric Airplanes are getting much popular (as well as Helis and
Boats), especial with new battery technology.
Charging and switching about of battery packs, causes much flexing
demands. Weight is critical, and the gazillion strands helps out not only
on flexibility, but minimal weight for ability to carry amps. On models
you often cheat on size of wire to save weight, and that can heat things
up. Silicone insulation is very flexible and pretty good at high
temperatures. In the quantities I buy, it is not cheap.
Astroflight, Hobby Lobby and many others sell it.
One of my favorite connectors, Sermos or Anderson Powerpole Modular
connectors work awful well with Model Electrics. The 15 amp, 30 amp and 45
amp size is the same size, just the pins are different. I would much
rather parallel 2 connectors than rely on 1. If things are perfect you can
use a 30 amp for 30 amps. That said I do find from time to time signs of
high resistance joints. Using 2 parallel 15s, never had a problem.
They are going to be used in numerous locations on my Europa.
Check out:
http://www.yourzagi.com/wagmax.htm
Go to fourth picture down, it shows parallel silicone wire and connectors.
You can position the modular connectors so they are keyed so can not make
a mistake. Can easily stack a dozen or more in a row or cube.
www.mcmaster sells them. 2 parallel work great for Cessna landing lights
in cowl, easy removal and install, even when real cold out.
I will use them for connectors for allowing electron to my wings, which
will be removed a fair amount.
Off topic, but in that same picture #4, you will see black size E Dacron
thread holding on my 3/4HP motor! This technique is unbelievable. Use a
little JB Weld fast cure to get position you want, then use thin CA (Crazy
type glue like Zap)to hold thread in place. A quick slice and tap and
motor is off. Way off subject, buy some keen edge razor blades from
McMaster Carr, they are black and super sharp. Break em with pliers for
small on the spot scalpel.
Same photo you can see the 2 Carbon Fiber rods, they are green. I go to an
indoor Archery range, and garbage pick CF arrows that hit the cement wall,
or the knocks get "Knocked" forward a few inches. Since most of these are
unidirectional wrapped, they are not great in some directions as far as
strength. I internal custom sleeve where more strength is desired, and
then wrap the exterior with Spectra Fishing line and thin CA. If you have
not played with this stuff, do so. Strong like steel, glues easily with
thin CA, not good for high temperatures. Another appeal for holding
batteries, is the spectra is not a good conductor. CF conducts better than
you care for in many electrical instances. Spectra is pretty abrasion
resistant. Anyway CF and Spectra wrap, and Size E Dacron are all making
its way into Europa.
Also McMaster check out Kevlar and Nomex thread.
For much of my wires, and fuel lines instead of traditional nylon ty wraps
on stand offs, I took a piece of Balsa Wood square 2 inches by 1 inch and
laid up 1 ply BID. Then I sewed with Kevlar thread using a Zig Zag stitch
Velcro to the 2 x 1. Then wrapped with thin .020 safety wire, and laid up
1 layer BID on bottom. Now just need to Redux this anywhere you need a
hold-down. On my fuel lines going through the tunnel I put a piece of
Velcro on the lines themselves.
Ron Parigoris
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Z-19 questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Burnaby" <jonlaury@impulse.net>
How I love this list.
Thanks Bob, for once again clarifying the options and saving me time and money.
John
do not archive
Message 12
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Subject: | Any merit using a capacitor with ND alternator? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Is there any merit using a 22,000mF capacitor with a SD-20s alternator and
a LR3C linear regulator as far as:
Keeping things stable if battery were to go off line (my main reason for
asking this question)?
Perhaps reducing some sort of noise?
Other?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Rotax 914 internal generator and Ducati regulator/rectifier as per the
install manual have you install a 22,000mF capacitor. I think idea is not
only for noise control, but if the battery goes off line it will keep
things stable.
Rotax has an optional 40 amp ND alternator with internal regulator. I
suspect it is a switching regulator. Anyway as per the install manual have
you install a 22,000mF capacitor.
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 13
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Years ago, I knew an electrical engineer who claimed he could rejuvenate
NiCad batteries by charging a capacitor and zapping it across the battery.
I watched him do this, and saw what I recall were positive results. He
claimed it reduced the internal resistance, so they would hold a charge
better. Is there anything to this?
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 729 hours
Maple Grove, MN
Message 14
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vern Little <rv-9a-online@telus.net>
I've done it a lot. I used it to blow out internal shorts in battery
packs. I'd take a big computer-grade low esr electrolytic, charge it
with a power supply then connect it to the batter pack.
The large current would blow out any internal shorts.
This works a few times, but is not a permanent fix for NiCd problems.
Also, the charge rate of NiCd batteries is proportional to the discharge
rate... so the trick is to discharge them quickly, then charge them
quickly using special chargers (battery charger/conditioners).
Also, it's better to pulse charge the NiCd batteries, rather than using
a smooth DC charging source.
You may want to Google it, because there is a lot of info available.
Vern Little
Alex Peterson wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> Years ago, I knew an electrical engineer who claimed he could rejuvenate
> NiCad batteries by charging a capacitor and zapping it across the battery.
> I watched him do this, and saw what I recall were positive results. He
> claimed it reduced the internal resistance, so they would hold a charge
> better. Is there anything to this?
>
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A N66AP 729 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
Alex Peterson wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> Years ago, I knew an electrical engineer who claimed he could rejuvenate
> NiCad batteries by charging a capacitor and zapping it across the battery.
> I watched him do this, and saw what I recall were positive results. He
> claimed it reduced the internal resistance, so they would hold a charge
> better. Is there anything to this?
There is something to this but it is not because it reduced the internal
resistance.
Seems that NiCds have a tendency for the sodium hydroxide electrolyte to
form conductive crystals if the battery is left discharged. The crystals
grow through the separator and cause a short between the plates
(electrodes inside the battery). When that happens you can't charge the
NiCd.
What the capacitor does is provide a huge momentary current that
destroys these crystals without overheating the battery. Once the shorts
are blown clear, the battery will then take a charge.
The only caveat is, when this happens it usually means that the battery
is approaching the end of its life. The crystal is not completely
destroyed but the short is removed. The crystal is likely to grow back
and short the cell again. Still, it is a useful technique if you need to
get a couple more cycles from your NiCds.
--
Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way
brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Any merit using a capacitor with ND alternator? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
alternator?
At 01:50 AM 3/20/2006 +0000, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
>Is there any merit using a 22,000mF capacitor with a SD-20s alternator and
>a LR3C linear regulator as far as:
>Keeping things stable if battery were to go off line (my main reason for
>asking this question)?
>Perhaps reducing some sort of noise?
>Other?
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>Rotax 914 internal generator and Ducati regulator/rectifier as per the
>install manual have you install a 22,000mF capacitor. I think idea is not
>only for noise control, but if the battery goes off line it will keep
>things stable.
>
>Rotax has an optional 40 amp ND alternator with internal regulator. I
>suspect it is a switching regulator. Anyway as per the install manual have
>you install a 22,000mF capacitor.
Nope, if there was some benefit to be realized, we would have
included it in the recommended installation drawings. That
isn't to say that adding a capacitor won't reduce some noise
characteristics. It's just that the noise from a 3-phase,
wound field alternator is a known quantity that falls below
acceptable limits expected on a DC alternator/battery system.
See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/MSTD704_28V_Noise.jpg
These noise values are for a 28v system, half them for 14v.
Everyone who is a savvy supplier to the industry EXPECTS and
designs their products to live in this environment.
Should you encounter a device not designed to live in the real
world, it's usually easier to filter off the offending noise
at input to the victim as opposed to attacking it at the source.
Bob . . .
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Batt Charger/voltmeter/ammeter/temp |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Speedy11@aol.com
Sorry I asked. I'll know better next time.
Stan Sutterfield
Do Not Archive
Anyone have experience with this product?
http://www.customdynamics.com/kisan-battery-charger.htm
Is it any good?
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