Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:32 AM - Vans Type Alternator (Bill Bradburry)
2. 05:44 AM - Re: Vans Type Alternator (Bill Bradburry)
3. 06:25 AM - Re: Vans Type Alternator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 07:51 AM - Re: Vans Type Alternator (Brian Lloyd)
5. 08:46 AM - Endurance Bus Voltage Measurement (Steve & Denise)
6. 09:37 AM - Steppint power down (John Danielson)
7. 10:00 AM - KMA-20 ()
8. 10:15 AM - [Fw: Re: Denso 100 211-1630] (Gilles Thesee)
9. 10:22 AM - Re: Denso 100 211-1630 (Gilles Thesee)
10. 11:19 AM - Re: Steppint power down (Peter Mather)
11. 11:20 AM - Battery charging (Sam Marlow)
12. 11:43 AM - Re: Endurance Bus Voltage Measurement (John Brick)
13. 11:43 AM - Re: Battery charging (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
14. 12:14 PM - Re: Battery charging (Sam Marlow)
15. 12:41 PM - Re: Battery charging (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
16. 12:45 PM - Re: Steppint power down (Deene Ogden)
17. 04:35 PM - Re: Steppint power down (Eric M. Jones)
18. 04:53 PM - Re: Battery charging (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 04:57 PM - Re: Battery charging (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 05:03 PM - Re: Battery charging (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 06:23 PM - Re: Re: OV/LV light (was: UV Light) (Boddicker)
22. 08:41 PM - Out of town for several days. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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Subject: | Vans Type Alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Bradburry" <bbradburry@allvantage.com>
Snip...
>I just bought an ND alternator, Lester #14684. This is the same
>alternator supplied with Vans kits. The regulator used in the
>alternator is the IN219. The terminal identification is D-IG-L.
>I was looking into how to control the field on this alternator and I
>have the following questions which I hope someone can answer.
>The repair circuit is TRI219. Comments are: Ignition activated. Load
>Dump protected, L-Terminal does NOT drive a choke.
. . . don't understand this . . . something to do
with electrically heated choke on carburetor?
Snip...
Now I am really confused. I assumed that this was a reference to an
electric device called a choke and was wondering how that played into
alternators.
Bill Bradburry
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Vans Type Alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Bradburry" <bbradburry@allvantage.com>
Whoops!! I should have read on down the list before replying!!
Thanks, Ken
Bill Bradburry
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Yup.
Some carbed vehicles used to feed the electrically heated automatic
choke from the L terminal of the alternator. This alternator won't
supply sufficent current on the L lead for that purpose.
Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Bradburry" <bbradburry@allvantage.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 8:28 AM
Subject: Vans Type Alternator
Snip...
>I just bought an ND alternator, Lester #14684. This is the same
>alternator supplied with Vans kits. The regulator used in the
>alternator is the IN219. The terminal identification is D-IG-L.
>I was looking into how to control the field on this alternator and I
>have the following questions which I hope someone can answer.
>The repair circuit is TRI219. Comments are: Ignition activated. Load
>Dump protected, L-Terminal does NOT drive a choke.
. . . don't understand this . . . something to do
with electrically heated choke on carburetor?
Snip...
Now I am really confused. I assumed that this was a reference to an
electric device called a choke and was wondering how that played into
alternators.
Bill Bradburry
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Vans Type Alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 08:28 AM 3/23/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Bradburry"
><bbradburry@allvantage.com>
>
>Snip...
> >I just bought an ND alternator, Lester #14684. This is the same
> >alternator supplied with Vans kits. The regulator used in the
> >alternator is the IN219. The terminal identification is D-IG-L.
> >I was looking into how to control the field on this alternator and I
> >have the following questions which I hope someone can answer.
> >The repair circuit is TRI219. Comments are: Ignition activated. Load
> >Dump protected, L-Terminal does NOT drive a choke.
>
> . . . don't understand this . . . something to do
> with electrically heated choke on carburetor?
>Snip...
>
>Now I am really confused. I assumed that this was a reference to an
>electric device called a choke and was wondering how that played into
>alternators.
Yeah, there is an electrical device called a "choke" or more
properly, an "inductor". However, there are chokes on carburetors,
shotguns and no doubt many more in other venues.
The terminal capable of bringing out the kind of energy necessary
for heated choke operation was the center tap of a wye-wound
alternator and was usually labeled 'aux'. One could get 1/2
system voltage at mucho current from this terminal. Of course
it was only present when the engine was running and the alternator
performing normally. It made an ideal power source for gradual
warming of the bi-metal spring that closed the choke in cold
weather to keep the engine running reasonably smooth until
it got warmed up.
Haven't seen an 'aux' terminal on a new alternator in many
moons. Since the advent of electronically controlled fuel
injection, the need for them in cars has faded away.
Bob . . .
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Vans Type Alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
Bill Bradburry wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Bradburry" <bbradburry@allvantage.com>
>
> Snip...
>> I just bought an ND alternator, Lester #14684. This is the same
>> alternator supplied with Vans kits. The regulator used in the
>> alternator is the IN219. The terminal identification is D-IG-L.
>> I was looking into how to control the field on this alternator and I
>> have the following questions which I hope someone can answer.
>> The repair circuit is TRI219. Comments are: Ignition activated. Load
>> Dump protected, L-Terminal does NOT drive a choke.
>
> . . . don't understand this . . . something to do
> with electrically heated choke on carburetor?
> Snip...
>
> Now I am really confused. I assumed that this was a reference to an
> electric device called a choke and was wondering how that played into
> alternators.
Ha, this is funny.
Many cars have an automatic choke that comes on when the car is cold and
goes off when it warms up. Some of these are electrical and use the
stator output of the alternator to drive the heating element in the
choke on the carb. The logic is, if the alternator is not turning, the
engine is not running and the choke should not open. When you start the
car and the alternator comes on-line, the choke starts to open. It works
pretty well ...
... and has absolutely nothing to do with airplanes. :-)
--
Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way
brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Message 5
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Subject: | Endurance Bus Voltage Measurement |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
Bob and others,
My electrical system is pretty much finished. I have started with Z-12 and
used SB-8 instead of 20A alternator.
On the endurance bus I have wired:
GNC300XL GPS/COM 0.221 A measured when not transmitting
Attitude Indicator 0.16 A
Autopilot (2 axis independent controlled) 1.6 A each
Volts/Amp E.I. gauge 0.089 A
If both axis of the autopilot are engaged, the total load is 3.67A.
My problem lies with the installed volt/amp gauge. The reason I installed
it on the endurance bus is to monitor the
decreasing voltage while running battery only. While this of course of a
highly unlikely situation with 2 alternators
I decided to install it there anyways. The better use of the gauge on to
monitor to current draw current SD8 operation
to ensure it is below the max output of the alt.
Enough rambling. Here is my problem:
I currently have no fuses installed in the MAIN Bus. I turn the Endurance
X-Feed on and measure 12.81V at
the endurance bus fuse block attachment. However I also measure 6.77V at the
MAIN fuse block terminal. The diode is
allowing current to leak backwards. With no fuses in the MAIN fuse block
the volts/amps gauge reads the correct
12.8V. It does not indicate current at this point since the shunts are in
the alternator leads, not battery leads.
Now the confusing part starts. If I install ALL the fuses in the Main fuse
block, the volt/amp gauge indicates 0V.
I still measure 12.74V at the endurance bus fuse block and the volt/amp
gauge turns on so the voltage sensed by
the gauge does not match the voltage at the terminal. Now if I turn the
MASTER ON, the voltage is then correct
back to 12.8V. With all the fuses on (Endurance switch ON, MASTER OFF) the
voltage at EBus is 12.74.
Voltage at MAIN bus is 0.45V.
Is it normal for the diode to leak voltage back to the MAIN bus when the
Endurance switch is ON?
Here is a couple of other weird anomalies with the volt/amp gauge. If I only
install the fuse for the dimmer control
module (on MAIN bus), the indicated voltage jumps to 36.6V. The HI VOLTS
light does not come on, and the
measured voltage at the EBus is still only 12.8V.
Remove the Dimmer fuse, install the Encoder fuse (again on MAIN Bus) and
indicated voltage is 2.3V. Measured
at Ebus is still 12.8V.
Remove encoder fuse, install Low voltage Warn fuse, volt/amp gauge indicates
0V. Measure 12.8V still.
So:
Is the diode working correctly by allowing voltage to leak to MAIN bus
when on EBus Feed switch is on?
Any ideas on why this volt/amps gauge reads odd in some cases?
I have contacted E.I. and they state to check the wiring. Done. Obviously
the first step. They also said that "if there
is not bus voltage on the shunt you may not get a correct rading on either
volts or amps position."
Besides this all instruments/indictors/lights work correctly. When the
MASTER is On the volt/amp also works
correctly.
Thanks
Steve Hurlbut
RV7A
Message 6
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Subject: | Steppint power down |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
Hi Bob,
I have an intercom that runs on a 9 volt battery. I would like to attach
the leads to my 12 volt power source. What is a good way to step the 12
volts down to 9 volts?
Thanks
John
Message 7
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <jlundberg@cox.net>
I have a 1971 C-172L with a KMA 20 audio panel with 2 Nav-Coms and one Nav-Com
(a KX-170B) will bleed though and be heard by the tower when I am transmitting
with the other Nav-Com (a Narco MK-12D+). I have heard it also on other transmissions
from other planes. Anybody have an idea about how to fix it??
John
N7607G
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Denso 100 211-1630] |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Denso 100 211-1630 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Bob and Ken,
Thank you for your replies. I'll take a closer look at those IR messages.
Best regards,
Gilles Thesee
Grenoble, France
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Steppint power down |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Peter Mather" <peter@mather.com>
Bob
7809 voltage regulator chip and 2 capacitors, one before, one after the
chip - google "7809 regulator" for values. Pot it in a small plastic box
with suitable connectors on flying leads
Best Regards
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 5:32 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Steppint power down
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Danielson"
> <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
>
> Hi Bob,
> I have an intercom that runs on a 9 volt battery. I would like to attach
> the leads to my 12 volt power source. What is a good way to step the 12
> volts down to 9 volts?
> Thanks
>
> John
>
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Battery charging |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
I'm planning on using dual Light Speed ignition on my RV10, but I don't
feel comfortable using just one battery for both systems. Can someone
explain how to charge a second battery with different AMP hr rating,
with a single alternator system?
Message 12
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Subject: | Endurance Bus Voltage Measurement |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Brick" <jebrick@comcast.net>
Pay close attention to what EI said... "if there
is not bus voltage on the shunt you may not get a correct reading on either
volts or amps position."
I have the Z11 architecture and had to install a second shunt in the wire
from the ebus switch to the ebus. And then a relay to switch between shunts
when ebus switch is turned on.
Jb
RV-4 N474JB.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve &
Denise
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 8:48 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Endurance Bus Voltage Measurement
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve & Denise"
<sjhdcl@kingston.net>
Bob and others,
My electrical system is pretty much finished. I have started with Z-12 and
used SB-8 instead of 20A alternator.
On the endurance bus I have wired:
GNC300XL GPS/COM 0.221 A measured when not transmitting
Attitude Indicator 0.16 A
Autopilot (2 axis independent controlled) 1.6 A each
Volts/Amp E.I. gauge 0.089 A
If both axis of the autopilot are engaged, the total load is 3.67A.
My problem lies with the installed volt/amp gauge. The reason I installed
it on the endurance bus is to monitor the
decreasing voltage while running battery only. While this of course of a
highly unlikely situation with 2 alternators
I decided to install it there anyways. The better use of the gauge on to
monitor to current draw current SD8 operation
to ensure it is below the max output of the alt.
Enough rambling. Here is my problem:
I currently have no fuses installed in the MAIN Bus. I turn the Endurance
X-Feed on and measure 12.81V at
the endurance bus fuse block attachment. However I also measure 6.77V at the
MAIN fuse block terminal. The diode is
allowing current to leak backwards. With no fuses in the MAIN fuse block
the volts/amps gauge reads the correct
12.8V. It does not indicate current at this point since the shunts are in
the alternator leads, not battery leads.
Now the confusing part starts. If I install ALL the fuses in the Main fuse
block, the volt/amp gauge indicates 0V.
I still measure 12.74V at the endurance bus fuse block and the volt/amp
gauge turns on so the voltage sensed by
the gauge does not match the voltage at the terminal. Now if I turn the
MASTER ON, the voltage is then correct
back to 12.8V. With all the fuses on (Endurance switch ON, MASTER OFF) the
voltage at EBus is 12.74.
Voltage at MAIN bus is 0.45V.
Is it normal for the diode to leak voltage back to the MAIN bus when the
Endurance switch is ON?
Here is a couple of other weird anomalies with the volt/amp gauge. If I only
install the fuse for the dimmer control
module (on MAIN bus), the indicated voltage jumps to 36.6V. The HI VOLTS
light does not come on, and the
measured voltage at the EBus is still only 12.8V.
Remove the Dimmer fuse, install the Encoder fuse (again on MAIN Bus) and
indicated voltage is 2.3V. Measured
at Ebus is still 12.8V.
Remove encoder fuse, install Low voltage Warn fuse, volt/amp gauge indicates
0V. Measure 12.8V still.
So:
Is the diode working correctly by allowing voltage to leak to MAIN bus
when on EBus Feed switch is on?
Any ideas on why this volt/amps gauge reads odd in some cases?
I have contacted E.I. and they state to check the wiring. Done. Obviously
the first step. They also said that "if there
is not bus voltage on the shunt you may not get a correct rading on either
volts or amps position."
Besides this all instruments/indictors/lights work correctly. When the
MASTER is On the volt/amp also works
correctly.
Thanks
Steve Hurlbut
RV7A
Message 13
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Subject: | Battery charging |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Connect both positive terminals together...Thats the short answer.
BUT if you have a major ground fault on the primary battery you'll want
to stop the second battery losing all its charge. Put a Shotkey diode
(small forward voltage drop) in the line tying the two batteries
together...The the alt will feed the small second battery but it won't
flow the other way.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam
Marlow
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 11:20 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Battery charging
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sam Marlow
--> <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
I'm planning on using dual Light Speed ignition on my RV10, but I don't
feel comfortable using just one battery for both systems. Can someone
explain how to charge a second battery with different AMP hr rating,
with a single alternator system?
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Battery charging |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
I understand if you connect hte two batteries the second, and smaller
battery will get somewhat of a charge, but will the second battery stay
in a charged state, and be at full capacity when you need it? Looks to
me if you connect the two together, they act as one battery, as far as
the voltage regulator is concerned, and if the little battery demands
volts from the voltage regulator, the other battery gets over charged,
or vice versa. Am I thinking right here, can they be charged separately
with only one voltage regulator?
Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
>Connect both positive terminals together...Thats the short answer.
>
>BUT if you have a major ground fault on the primary battery you'll want
>to stop the second battery losing all its charge. Put a Shotkey diode
>(small forward voltage drop) in the line tying the two batteries
>together...The the alt will feed the small second battery but it won't
>flow the other way.
>
>Frank
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam
>Marlow
>Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 11:20 AM
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Battery charging
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sam Marlow
>--> <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
>
>I'm planning on using dual Light Speed ignition on my RV10, but I don't
>feel comfortable using just one battery for both systems. Can someone
>explain how to charge a second battery with different AMP hr rating,
>with a single alternator system?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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Subject: | Battery charging |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
According people much smarter than me (electrically speaking this would
be BOB!) you can use a single charger to charge two batterries wired in
parallel.
Thus if you simply connected the batteries together they look like one
battery and they both get fully charged.
The problem with a diode is that is has a forward voltage
drop...Radioshack diodes lose about 1 volt going forward but apparently
the Shotkey loses only about 0.25volts.
My little battery says it needs about 1 volt less than what my big
battery does...so I usead a RS diode, thinking all would be well...Bob
pointed out though that because the chemsitry of the big battery and the
little one is the same, they must both have the same charging
voltage...Bit of a bummer but I guess I'll be changing to the Shotkey at
some point.
The other thing is to plug a smart charger in and that can be presumably
wired directly to both batteries, i.e bypassing the diode.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam
Marlow
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Battery charging
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sam Marlow
--> <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
I understand if you connect hte two batteries the second, and smaller
battery will get somewhat of a charge, but will the second battery stay
in a charged state, and be at full capacity when you need it? Looks to
me if you connect the two together, they act as one battery, as far as
the voltage regulator is concerned, and if the little battery demands
volts from the voltage regulator, the other battery gets over charged,
or vice versa. Am I thinking right here, can they be charged separately
with only one voltage regulator?
Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Steppint power down |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Deene Ogden <deene@us.ibm.com>
I have built a number of these little power supplies for friends to power
their ANR headsets. I usually use a 10v 7810 3-terminal regulator
(Digikey p/n 296-1975-5-ND, TI UA7810) as Peter mentions below. I use
the 10v instead of the 9v version...either will work fine.
I solder a small 1uf capacitor between the input leads and use a 0.1uf cap
between the output leads and use the TO220 terminals as posts to solder
the input wires, caps and output wires. Then I encapsulate the whole
thing in shrink tubing. Take alook at the associated datasheet for the
device to see the TO220 package and pins and you will easily figure this
out.
Good Luck
Deene
"Peter Mather" <peter@mather.com>
Sent by: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
03/23/2006 01:16 PM
Please respond to
aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
To
<aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
cc
Subject
Re: AeroElectric-List: Steppint power down
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Peter Mather" <peter@mather.com>
Bob
7809 voltage regulator chip and 2 capacitors, one before, one after the
chip - google "7809 regulator" for values. Pot it in a small plastic box
with suitable connectors on flying leads
Best Regards
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 5:32 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Steppint power down
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Danielson"
> <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
>
> Hi Bob,
> I have an intercom that runs on a 9 volt battery. I would like to attach
> the leads to my 12 volt power source. What is a good way to step the 12
> volts down to 9 volts?
> Thanks
>
> John
>
>
>
Message 17
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|
Subject: | Re: Steppint power down |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Before you go cobbling together a fix--It is likely that the 9V intercom will run
fine on 12V. If you can get the schematic or take a peek inside you can determine
this by looking up the parts.
Is there a cigar lighter plug adapter available for it? That would be a clue.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=23816#23816
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Battery charging |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 02:20 PM 3/23/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
>
>I'm planning on using dual Light Speed ignition on my RV10, but I don't
>feel comfortable using just one battery for both systems. Can someone
>explain how to charge a second battery with different AMP hr rating,
>with a single alternator system?
You can add as many auxiliary batteries of any size
as you like/need as illustrated in Figure Z-30 of
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev11/AppZ_R11F.pdf
If they're smaller than the main battery, don't close their
respective contactors until after the engine is started.
Bob . . .
Message 19
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Subject: | Battery charging |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 11:41 AM 3/23/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
><frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
>Connect both positive terminals together...Thats the short answer.
>
>BUT if you have a major ground fault on the primary battery you'll want
>to stop the second battery losing all its charge. Put a Shotkey diode
>(small forward voltage drop) in the line tying the two batteries
>together...The the alt will feed the small second battery but it won't
>flow the other way.
"Major ground faults" that take down the main battery
are interesting to hypothesize but exceedingly rare. In
fact, I've never heard of one in any of our aircraft. I'll
check with the folks in customer service . . . especially
the old gray-beards on the prop airplanes. The only reason
we ever use diodes in power distribution is to power one
load from multiple sources (like those shown in Z-19). This
is necessary when a double or triple-feed bus needs to power
up and not back-feed an alternative source, like the e-bus
normal feedpath diode on Z-11.
Bob . . .
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Battery charging |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 03:09 PM 3/23/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
>
>I understand if you connect hte two batteries the second, and smaller
>battery will get somewhat of a charge, but will the second battery stay
>in a charged state, and be at full capacity when you need it? Looks to
>me if you connect the two together, they act as one battery, as far as
>the voltage regulator is concerned, and if the little battery demands
>volts from the voltage regulator, the other battery gets over charged,
>or vice versa. Am I thinking right here, can they be charged separately
>with only one voltage regulator?
Batteries charge based on voltage presented at their terminals.
They have no way to know how or why the applied voltage got to
be where it is right now. It might be that your alternator is
overloaded or your voltage regulator setting is wrong but a battery
no way to know (or react to) any number of additional batteries on
line.
There's a lot of myth and misunderstanding about the performance one
can expect both in the charging and discharging of paralleled batteries.
If your alternator and voltage regulator are doing their job, ALL batteries
of ANY size will be serviced to their individual needs. When discharging
paralleled batteries, you will have access to 100% of energy available
from the sum total of energy stored irrespective of size or condition
of the individual batteries.
Bob . . .
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: OV/LV light (was: UV Light) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Boddicker <trumanst@netins.net>
Bob,
I have the OV module in hand.
What is your mailing address?
Thanks,
Kevin
on 3/22/06 8:02 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III at nuckollsr@cox.net wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
> At 04:56 PM 3/22/2006 -0600, you wrote:
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Boddicker <trumanst@netins.net>
>>
>> Bob,
>> Yes I do have it wired as per Z24.
>> I would be happy to send the ov Module. Is it OK to fly without it ?
>> Kevin
>
> sure . . . risks are low but not zero. I'll turn it around quickly.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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Subject: | Out of town for several days. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Dr. Dee and I are packed and loaded for the Chesapeake, VA
seminar this weekend. Will be back on line Monday.
Bob . . .
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
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