Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:59 AM - Re: Denso Alternator Hook-up ()
2. 04:19 AM - Off, R, L, Both, Start switch ()
3. 07:18 AM - wing tip HID lights and lenses (Ron Patterson)
4. 07:18 AM - wiring starter and mag switches for Left on / Right off (Ron Patterson)
5. 08:35 AM - Switching (Sam Marlow)
6. 11:24 AM - Re: Switching (Peter Laurence)
7. 11:54 AM - Re: Re: Battery Cranking Power (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 12:42 PM - Re: Re: Battery Cranking Power (Bill Dube)
9. 03:31 PM - Re: wiring starter and mag switches for Left on / Right off (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 03:31 PM - Re: Off, R, L, Both, Start switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 08:10 PM - Z-13 Component Locations for RV-7 (PIAVIS)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Denso Alternator Hook-up |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Peter:
It would be good to have a part number but I think I got it. When you say wire
protruding I assume from a "T" shape plug.
Some more info:
http://img116.imageshack.us/img116/3039/altwiring5cm.jpg
(Ignore the round plug, the D terminal is a Dummy terminal for the model shown)
http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/9978/toyota7gf.jpg
(Shown for refrence only, slightly modified Toyota diagram, it shows fuse and
fusible
links with the wavy line or lines respectively. You can and should sub in CB's
in some
locations.)
Yes a CB on the "B-lead" (Battery lead the big heavy gage wire from the alternator
output to the battery. It is NOT one of the two small wires in the plug. The
CB should
be of the type that can be pulled manually, that is my suggestion. It just allows
you
another way to isolate the alternator if needed.)
Time: 02:09:36 PM PST US
From: "'Peter Braswell'" <pbraswell@alterthought.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Denso Alternator Hook-up
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "'Peter Braswell'"
<pbraswell@alterthought.com>
All,
I'm certain this is going to be a 101 question, forgive me.
I'm about to hookup my Denso alternator and it has two wires
protruding from the back, one labeled 'L' and the other labeled 'I'.
I'm certain one is for the "idiot light" and the other should be the
input for 12V and I'm no certain which is which. Any help would be
greatly appreciated!
-peter
Peter J. Braswell
CTO/CIO Canal Capital LLC
804.934.0300 ext 21
---------------------------------
Message 2
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Cc: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: | Off, R, L, Both, Start switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
3/27/2006
Hello Guy, So you want to take this notoriously fickle switch,
(see this web page for
example//http://www.avweb.com/news/columns/191792-1.html),
modify it, and put it into your electronic ignition circuits where a single
point failure can render both of your electronic ignitions inoperative.
Why would you want to do that?
OC
Time: 09:09:56 PM PST US
From: guy fulton <truecolor32bit@yahoo.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Off, R, L, Both, Start switch
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: guy fulton
<truecolor32bit@yahoo.com>
-=Guy=-
I converted to Dual electronic ignition 2years ago,
now am doing a complete dash replacment. Now use a
series of toggle switches for each of the two ignition
systems. I wanted to use a standard aircraft ignition
switch but it works opposite of what is needed for
electronic ignition. Is there an aircraft switch
manufactured that would work with the electronic
ignition? Is there a modification I could make to a
standard switch that would work?
thanks for any help.
Message 3
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Subject: | wing tip HID lights and lenses |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ron Patterson <scc_ron@yahoo.com>
anyone know a good source for small bulkheads and lenses for the RV-4 wintips?
I'm using creative air landinig lights but they don't sell the 110 degree bulkheads
or plexiglass lenses.
Thanks
Ron Patterson
N8ZD@yahoo.com
Message 4
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Subject: | wiring starter and mag switches for Left on / Right |
off
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ron Patterson <scc_ron@yahoo.com>
Can someone point me to the description or schematic of how to wire my mag switches
so that when the right mag is ON the starter will not engage? I'm trying
to avoid a seperate starter on/off switch
Thanks
Ron Patterson
N8ZD@yahoo.com
Message 5
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
Just wondered if anyone has any experience with the Power Board from
Blue Mountain. It has a nice switch arrangement for lighted, engraved
low voltage switches that really look nice. I'm a bit concerned about
reliability though. Any thoughts?
Message 6
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: " Peter Laurence" <Dr.Laurence@mbdi.org>
Sam
I'm not familiar with this switchboard. However, If the switches are
soldered to a board and a crtical one fails, you might be stuck while you
wait for a replacement. . I'd stick with Carling toggles. A trip to the
local hardware store would get you home.
Ask me how I know this.
Peter
>
> Just wondered if anyone has any experience with the Power Board from
> Blue Mountain. It has a nice switch arrangement for lighted, engraved
> low voltage switches that really look nice. I'm a bit concerned about
> reliability though. Any thoughts?
>
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Battery Cranking Power |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 09:51 AM 3/26/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Neubauer" <markn@fuse.net>
>
>Brian:
>
>You have hit the problem on the head. A serious drawback to the SkyTec
>starters is their very high current draw on each compression stroke. I
>believe it is entirely possible that your starter is indeed drawing 400 amps
>twice per engine revolution. It was for this reason, and using dual
>Lightspeed III ignition systems, that I swapped my SkyTec over to a field
>wound starter. They weigh more, but their cranking current is around half of
>the series wound models. High current draw like this will pull the battery
>voltage way down as you measured
>
>As a footnote, I discussed this phenomenon with a representative from SkyTec
>at Oshkosh in 2004. He could not have been more evasive and curt. I believe
>his response to my query was something like "Cranking current is not our
>concern, that is the airframe manufacturer's problem"
>
>Mark Neubauer
This is precisely why B&C stayed with wound-field
starters after considerable evaluation of the simpler
technology many years ago. The PM starters may indeed put
out more torque at a given terminal voltage but at higher
current draws too (you don't get something for nothing).
You can take advantage of this feature only if your battery's
internal resistance combined with the system's series resitance
is sufficiently low to deliver the power demand.
Yes, it is the manufacturer's problem to deal with the
hardware they select for integration into their products . . .
unfortunately, few folks in the airframe systems business
choose to be very well informed.
Bob . . .
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Battery Cranking Power |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bill Dube <william.p.dube@noaa.gov>
The PM starters will try to run at a specific RPM. They will draw the
current needed to do that, or they will sag the battery voltage trying
to do it. If the engine turns hard, they will draw a very large current.
If the engine turns easy, they will draw much less current. (The PM
starter RPM will be proportional to the supply voltage.)
The behavior of a series-wound starter is more complicated, but they
tend to put out a constant HP (rather than a constant speed.) They run
faster if the engine turns easier, and turn slower if the engine turns
harder. The current draw from the battery tends to be much more constant
than with a PM starter.
Bill Dube'
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: wiring starter and mag switches for Left on / |
Right off
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Left on / Right off
At 07:11 AM 3/27/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ron Patterson <scc_ron@yahoo.com>
>
>Can someone point me to the description or schematic of how to wire my mag
>switches so that when the right mag is ON the starter will not engage? I'm
>trying to avoid a seperate starter on/off switch
> Thanks
> Ron Patterson
> N8ZD@yahoo.com
See http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Engine/Ignition/TogMagSw.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Off, R, L, Both, Start switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 09:02 PM 3/26/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: guy fulton <truecolor32bit@yahoo.com>
>
>-=Guy=-
>I converted to Dual electronic ignition 2years ago,
>now am doing a complete dash replacment. Now use a
>series of toggle switches for each of the two ignition
>systems. I wanted to use a standard aircraft ignition
>switch but it works opposite of what is needed for
>electronic ignition. Is there an aircraft switch
>manufactured that would work with the electronic
>ignition? Is there a modification I could make to a
>standard switch that would work?
>thanks for any help.
Not all electronic ignitions use the same
switching philosophies. I believe Lightspeed
is designed to mimic magneto switching functions
so as to seamlessly integrate with the classic
off-l-r-both-start type mag switch. Also, the
next greatest system (e-mags/p-mags) will also
use this style of switch if you so choose.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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Subject: | Z-13 Component Locations for RV-7 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "PIAVIS" <piavis@comcast.net>
I'm starting to figure out where all the components for the Z-13 system get
located in my RV-7. I'm tempted to have everything except the main current
limiter and the battery/starter contactors on the hot side of the firewall,
with everything else on the cold side. Is this how most have installed the
system?
Thanks,
Jim
Jim Piavis
Redmond, WA
RV-7 Fuselage
http://adap.com/rv7
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