Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:04 AM - Re: Re: DAS Systems (Kevin Horton)
2. 06:32 AM - Wanna roll your own Engine monitoring system? (Alan K. Adamson)
3. 08:22 AM - Re: antenna construction (Dj Merrill)
4. 08:46 AM - LED power....... (Sid Hausding)
5. 09:32 AM - Re: LED power....... (Ken)
6. 09:35 AM - Re: LED power....... (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
7. 10:26 AM - LED power....... (Sid Hausding)
8. 10:27 AM - Re: LED power....... (Richard E. Tasker)
9. 10:44 AM - LED power....... (Sid Hausding)
10. 10:44 AM - Re: LED power....... (Richard Dudley)
11. 11:00 AM - LED power....... (Sid Hausding)
12. 12:17 PM - Connections on S704-1 Relay (SMITHBKN@aol.com)
13. 12:29 PM - Re: antenna construction (John Schroeder)
14. 12:42 PM - Re: LED power....... (John Schroeder)
15. 01:29 PM - oh no! OV again (gary)
16. 05:46 PM - LED ....... (Sid Hausding)
17. 09:32 PM - Alternator B Lead protection (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 15 Apr 2006, at 21:52, Brian Lloyd wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-
> yak@lloyd.com>
>
> Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
>> Win/USB is the major market . . . and FTDI's drivers for making
>> USB masquerade as a serial COM port are getting better all the
>> time. I have one product right now that's been a real hassle
>> when customers want to put it on a Win95 or even Windows for
>> Workgroups! It's a shoo-in on XP and 2000.
>
> Well, you are talking to someone who has spent most of his life making
> devices and services universally available over the network. There
> is a
> reason people have embraced the Internet; it is the universal vehicle
> for communication between devices.
>
>> The biggest filter of operating systems will be a GUI we'll
>> provide which will be crafted for the latest Win OS and how ever
>> far back as we can make it go without undue labor. However,
>> the communications architecture will be open and anyone who
>> want's to craft their own interface. It's usually no big deal
>> to take a series of streaming data and push it to a hard drive
>> for later import to spread-sheet-and-graphics of choice. The
>> DAS will put out ASCII integers in comma de-limited strings.
>
> For the GUI, use Java. The reason is, you really will be able to
> run it
> on windows, Mac, or any of the flavors of Unix/Linux out there. It has
> all the hooks to allow you to communicate over a network connection
> regardless of whether it is serial RS-232 (PPP), ethernet, USB,
> Firewire, Bluetooth, or WiFi (IEEE 802.11[a|b|g]).
I'm interested in a reasonably priced system to record analog data
that I can hook up to a laptop running Mac OS X. I don't own any
computers that run Windows, and won't purchase one just for this task.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 2
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Subject: | Wanna roll your own Engine monitoring system? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alan K. Adamson" <aadamson@highrf.com>
I knew I'd seen this before, but just stumbled on the link to it again.
It's what most of the guys run at Reno for telemetry :)....Pretty cool stuff
http://www.rcatsystems.com/
Alan
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: antenna construction |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
Kevin Horton wrote:
> http://www.rst-engr.com/
Hi Kevin,
Thanks for the link! That wasn't the site I was thinking of but
that looks like a good one. They have a booklet they sell for $5 that
apparently has several airplane antenna plans in it, and probably worth
getting to have on hand.
The site I was thinking of had plans and list of materials
on it so you could build the antennas yourself from raw parts. I've
tried Google with no luck, and I can't seem to find the bookmark for the
site. Ah well...
Thanks,
-Dj
do not archive
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118
http://econ.duke.edu/~deej/sportsman/
"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
Message 4
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Subject: | LED power....... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com>
Yes, nice site with lots of lighting ideas...........but, no tech ideas for powering
up the little buggers.....
anyone done this for their panels or other electric/electronic devices and can
tell me the needed requirements to keep the LED's from burning out......?
Sid
-----------------------
Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com> wrote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding
Wondering if all LED's come with a built in current limiting device or if most
will need to have a resistor wired in line to keep the small power requirements
they use from burning out.........any info posted somewhere on wiring in a 15mamp,
12dcv device to show power to the system out there?
Sid
--------------------
"Alan K. Adamson" wrote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alan K. Adamson"
Opps, helps if you post the link...
http://www.ledtronics.com/
Don't know if this has been posted before or not, but this place has just
about every LED imaginable and then some.
"Why can't we all just get along?"
---------------------------------
"Why can't we all just get along?"
---------------------------------
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: LED power....... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Hi Sid
The vast majority of LED's require a current limiting resistor. A few
may have one included for example a panel indicator that specifically
says 12 volts. The operating voltage of an LED is around 1.7 volts or so
depending on the color. I usually limit the current to 8 to 15 ma. for
general use. 1000 ohms might be in the ballpark for an indicator but
play around with it. Radio shack used to have cheap paper back books
(written by Forrest Mims ?) that are great for learning things like
this. There are also a number of web sites on using LED's.
Ken
Sid Hausding wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com>
>
>Yes, nice site with lots of lighting ideas...........but, no tech ideas for powering
up the little buggers.....
> anyone done this for their panels or other electric/electronic devices and can
tell me the needed requirements to keep the LED's from burning out......?
> Sid
> -----------------------
>
>Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding
>
>Wondering if all LED's come with a built in current limiting device or if most
will need to have a resistor wired in line to keep the small power requirements
they use from burning out.........any info posted somewhere on wiring in a
15mamp, 12dcv device to show power to the system out there?
>Sid
>--------------------
>
>"Alan K. Adamson" wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alan K. Adamson"
>
>Opps, helps if you post the link...
>
>http://www.ledtronics.com/
>
>
>Don't know if this has been posted before or not, but this place has just
>about every LED imaginable and then some.
>
>
>"Why can't we all just get along?"
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>"Why can't we all just get along?"
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: LED power....... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Hi Sid-
To properly power an LED or even several in series, you simple provide an
appropriate amount of resistance in series with the correctly-biased LED(s) that
results in an actual current flow of about 20 mA. You can also reduce their
brightness by using more resistance, or less resistance, which results in
overdriving the LEDs somewhat. This will likely shorten their lifespan, but what
is 50% of maybe 100K hrs in the life of an airplane? When I first got
interested in playing with these things for my RV, I ordered a bunch of different
types
and colors from Marlin P Jones, got a resistor assortment from JapShack, and
did a bunch of playing with them. The parts are extremely cheap. See:
http://mpja.com/listitems.asp?dept=116&main=122
Radio Shack carries this resistor assortment- you can make virtually any
resistance by combining resistors:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062304&cp=&origkw=resis
tor&kw=resistor&kwCatId=2032058&parentPage=search
If that ugly URL doesn't work, go to Radioshack.com and search for 271-308.
If you can do Excel, I've got a SS that lists required resistances for
various types and series strings of LEDs. Will send copy direct & if anyone else
interested will send also...
Mark Phillips
Message 7
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Subject: | LED power....... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com>
Free cheap beer all day for Mark...........yay, and thank you profusely for getting
me started. Just too lazy to review all the old manuals and relearn what
I had forgotten years ago. You have provided me with the fast step to getting
me back up to speed..........Happy Easter to you and yours and this list.
Sid
Avid Speedwing
----------------------------------------
Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Hi Sid-
To properly power an LED or even several in series, you simple provide an
appropriate amount of resistance in series with the correctly-biased LED(s) that
results in an actual current flow of about 20 mA. You can also reduce their
brightness by using more resistance, or less resistance, which results in
overdriving the LEDs somewhat. This will likely shorten their lifespan, but what
is 50% of maybe 100K hrs in the life of an airplane? When I first got
interested in playing with these things for my RV, I ordered a bunch of different
types
and colors from Marlin P Jones, got a resistor assortment from JapShack, and
did a bunch of playing with them. The parts are extremely cheap. See:
http://mpja.com/listitems.asp?dept=116&main=122
Radio Shack carries this resistor assortment- you can make virtually any
resistance by combining resistors:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062304&cp=&origkw=resis
tor&kw=resistor&kwCatId=2032058&parentPage=search
If that ugly URL doesn't work, go to Radioshack.com and search for 271-308.
If you can do Excel, I've got a SS that lists required resistances for
various types and series strings of LEDs. Will send copy direct & if anyone else
interested will send also...
Mark Phillips
"Why can't we all just get along?"
---------------------------------
Message 8
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|
Subject: | Re: LED power....... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Essentially all LEDs require some sort of current limiter. That is,
LEDs are current driven devices (rather than voltage driven like a
normal incandescent lights) and putting a voltage higher than required
to light them will cause almost instant self destruction. But it looks
like you already knew that...
That said, the LED assemblies offered on the referenced site may very
well have internal limiters, especially where they come attached to a
threaded plug that is designed to thread into an incandescent lamp socket.
Most single (unassembled) LEDs do NOT have an internal limiter and are
designed to work with something between 10-30 mA through them. This can
be accomplished in a number of ways, but the simplest is just to wire a
resistor in series with the LED. When you purchase an LED it should
come with specifications that tell you what the operating voltage is
(the voltage that it lights at) and the rated maximum current. Let's
take a sample red LED with an operating voltage of 1.7V and a maximum
current of 30 mA. Let's further assume that you want to operate this at
something less than the maximum current to allow for high temperatures
in the cockpit and choose 20 mA (a little less than maximum brightness,
but probably still very bright). If we are operating this from the
alternator/battery voltage we can assume about 14V available (actually
12-14.5V - see below). If we just hooked this to the LED it would be
very bright (for a millisecond or two), then very dark :-) . We need
to limit the current to the aforementioned 20 mA.
So... We take the available voltage (14V) and subtract what the LED
needs (1.7V) to get the voltage we need to "discard" (12.3V). We then
calculate the resistor we need to allow 20 mA with this voltage
(12.3V). Using Ohm's law (V=I*R) and rearranging (R=V/I) we plug the
numbers into the equation to get 12.3V/0.02A=615 ohms. That is not one
of the standard available values of resistor so we choose a value that
is close (620 ohms for 5% resistors or 619 ohms for 1% resistors). Now
we have a value but we still have to calculate the power "discarded" in
the resistor so we can get one that will not burn up as soon as we turn
things on. Power in watts is (W=V*I). Plugging the numbers in we get
12.3V * 0.02A = 0.246 W or 246 mW. Resistors come is various power
ratings and we have to choose one that is at least what we just
calculated. That means we should use 1/4W at absolute minimum.
However, if we choose the 1/4W resistor it will run very hot to
dissipate 0.246W of power - potentially shortening it's life and
reliability. So we really want to choose at least a 1/2W resistor.
That will give it some "elbow room" especially important if it will be
operating in a warm environment.
Use the same idea for any LED you may buy (different colors have
different operating voltages). Additionally, you can connect two LEDs
in series for whatever reason (lighting, etc.) and just do the same
calculations but use 3.4V (in this case 1.7V times the two LEDs) instead
of 1.7V. You can do this with several LEDs but you must allow some
series voltage to drop across the resistor (remembering that the voltage
on the aircraft bus varies from about 14.5V max. to about 12V min.). As
the voltage varies the LEDs will vary in brightness. If you have one
LED the "leftover" voltage will vary between 12.8V to 10.3V - a change
of approximately 20-25%. If you series several LEDs (say four for a
drop of 6.8V), the voltage will vary between 7.7V to 5.2V - a change of
30-50%. So do not add too many in series that you have too low a
voltage across the resistor.
Do not connect LEDs in parallel!!! If you do, the one that has a
slightly lower operating voltage will "hog" all the current - causing it
to use too much current (overheat) and be much brighter than the
other(s). If you want to wire them in parallel for some reason, use a
series resistor for each LED.
If you have more questions, please ask. :-)
Dick Tasker
Sid Hausding wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com>
>
>Yes, nice site with lots of lighting ideas...........but, no tech ideas for powering
up the little buggers.....
> anyone done this for their panels or other electric/electronic devices and can
tell me the needed requirements to keep the LED's from burning out......?
> Sid
> -----------------------
>
>Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding
>
>Wondering if all LED's come with a built in current limiting device or if most
will need to have a resistor wired in line to keep the small power requirements
they use from burning out.........any info posted somewhere on wiring in a
15mamp, 12dcv device to show power to the system out there?
>Sid
>--------------------
>
>"Alan K. Adamson" wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alan K. Adamson"
>
>Opps, helps if you post the link...
>
>http://www.ledtronics.com/
>
>
>Don't know if this has been posted before or not, but this place has just
>about every LED imaginable and then some.
>
>
>"Why can't we all just get along?"
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>"Why can't we all just get along?"
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
--
Message 9
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Subject: | LED power....... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com>
Okay Ken,
I'm relearning some of this from a very long time ago. Its was always interesting
and still is to me, just wanted a short cut to get these dang things in
for indicator lights..........will search around and bring myself up to speed
on some of this "old memory stuff".
Happy Holiday,
Sid
--------------------------------
Ken <klehman@ wrote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken
Hi Sid
The vast majority of LED's require a current limiting resistor. A few
may have one included for example a panel indicator that specifically
says 12 volts. The operating voltage of an LED is around 1.7 volts or so
depending on the color. I usually limit the current to 8 to 15 ma. for
general use. 1000 ohms might be in the ballpark for an indicator but
play around with it. Radio shack used to have cheap paper back books
(written by Forrest Mims ?) that are great for learning things like
this. There are also a number of web sites on using LED's.
Ken
Sid Hausding wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding
>
>Yes, nice site with lots of lighting ideas...........but, no tech ideas for powering
up the little buggers.....
> anyone done this for their panels or other electric/electronic devices and can
tell me the needed requirements to keep the LED's from burning out......?
> Sid
> -----------------------
>
>Sid Hausding wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding
>
>Wondering if all LED's come with a built in current limiting device or if most
will need to have a resistor wired in line to keep the small power requirements
they use from burning out.........any info posted somewhere on wiring in a
15mamp, 12dcv device to show power to the system out there?
>Sid
>--------------------
>
>"Alan K. Adamson" wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alan K. Adamson"
>
>Opps, helps if you post the link...
>
>http://www.ledtronics.com/
>
>
>Don't know if this has been posted before or not, but this place has just
>about every LED imaginable and then some.
>
>
>"Why can't we all just get along?"
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>"Why can't we all just get along?"
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
"Why can't we all just get along?"
---------------------------------
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: LED power....... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Hi Sid,
Bob Nucolls has piece on LEDs. I think that it answers many of your
questions.
Try this link: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/leds3.pdf
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A flying
Sid Hausding wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com>
>
>Yes, nice site with lots of lighting ideas...........but, no tech ideas for powering
up the little buggers.....
> anyone done this for their panels or other electric/electronic devices and can
tell me the needed requirements to keep the LED's from burning out......?
> Sid
> -----------------------
>
>Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding
>
>Wondering if all LED's come with a built in current limiting device or if most
will need to have a resistor wired in line to keep the small power requirements
they use from burning out.........any info posted somewhere on wiring in a
15mamp, 12dcv device to show power to the system out there?
>Sid
>--------------------
>
>"Alan K. Adamson" wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alan K. Adamson"
>
>Opps, helps if you post the link...
>
>http://www.ledtronics.com/
>
>
>Don't know if this has been posted before or not, but this place has just
>about every LED imaginable and then some.
>
>
>"Why can't we all just get along?"
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>"Why can't we all just get along?"
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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|
Subject: | LED power....... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com>
you're going to be a great instructor in you "other" life.........and thanks a
million, now I don't even have to read anymore..........just follow your little
examples and "getter' done" as the cable guy says.............and a Happy Holiday
to you and the family also. Great info this morning........
Sid
I even used to know Ohm's law.......... :-)
------------------
"Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@> wrote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker"
Essentially all LEDs require some sort of current limiter. That is,
LEDs are current driven devices (rather than voltage driven like a
normal incandescent lights) and putting a voltage higher than required
to light them will cause almost instant self destruction. But it looks
like you already knew that...
That said, the LED assemblies offered on the referenced site may very
well have internal limiters, especially where they come attached to a
threaded plug that is designed to thread into an incandescent lamp socket.
Most single (unassembled) LEDs do NOT have an internal limiter and are
designed to work with something between 10-30 mA through them. This can
be accomplished in a number of ways, but the simplest is just to wire a
resistor in series with the LED. When you purchase an LED it should
come with specifications that tell you what the operating voltage is
(the voltage that it lights at) and the rated maximum current. Let's
take a sample red LED with an operating voltage of 1.7V and a maximum
current of 30 mA. Let's further assume that you want to operate this at
something less than the maximum current to allow for high temperatures
in the cockpit and choose 20 mA (a little less than maximum brightness,
but probably still very bright). If we are operating this from the
alternator/battery voltage we can assume about 14V available (actually
12-14.5V - see below). If we just hooked this to the LED it would be
very bright (for a millisecond or two), then very dark :-) . We need
to limit the current to the aforementioned 20 mA.
So... We take the available voltage (14V) and subtract what the LED
needs (1.7V) to get the voltage we need to "discard" (12.3V). We then
calculate the resistor we need to allow 20 mA with this voltage
(12.3V). Using Ohm's law (V=I*R) and rearranging (R=V/I) we plug the
numbers into the equation to get 12.3V/0.02A=615 ohms. That is not one
of the standard available values of resistor so we choose a value that
is close (620 ohms for 5% resistors or 619 ohms for 1% resistors). Now
we have a value but we still have to calculate the power "discarded" in
the resistor so we can get one that will not burn up as soon as we turn
things on. Power in watts is (W=V*I). Plugging the numbers in we get
12.3V * 0.02A = 0.246 W or 246 mW. Resistors come is various power
ratings and we have to choose one that is at least what we just
calculated. That means we should use 1/4W at absolute minimum.
However, if we choose the 1/4W resistor it will run very hot to
dissipate 0.246W of power - potentially shortening it's life and
reliability. So we really want to choose at least a 1/2W resistor.
That will give it some "elbow room" especially important if it will be
operating in a warm environment.
Use the same idea for any LED you may buy (different colors have
different operating voltages). Additionally, you can connect two LEDs
in series for whatever reason (lighting, etc.) and just do the same
calculations but use 3.4V (in this case 1.7V times the two LEDs) instead
of 1.7V. You can do this with several LEDs but you must allow some
series voltage to drop across the resistor (remembering that the voltage
on the aircraft bus varies from about 14.5V max. to about 12V min.). As
the voltage varies the LEDs will vary in brightness. If you have one
LED the "leftover" voltage will vary between 12.8V to 10.3V - a change
of approximately 20-25%. If you series several LEDs (say four for a
drop of 6.8V), the voltage will vary between 7.7V to 5.2V - a change of
30-50%. So do not add too many in series that you have too low a
voltage across the resistor.
Do not connect LEDs in parallel!!! If you do, the one that has a
slightly lower operating voltage will "hog" all the current - causing it
to use too much current (overheat) and be much brighter than the
other(s). If you want to wire them in parallel for some reason, use a
series resistor for each LED.
If you have more questions, please ask. :-)
Dick Tasker
Sid Hausding wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding
>
>Yes, nice site with lots of lighting ideas...........but, no tech ideas for powering
up the little buggers.....
> anyone done this for their panels or other electric/electronic devices and can
tell me the needed requirements to keep the LED's from burning out......?
> Sid
> -----------------------
>
>Sid Hausding wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding
>
>Wondering if all LED's come with a built in current limiting device or if most
will need to have a resistor wired in line to keep the small power requirements
they use from burning out.........any info posted somewhere on wiring in a
15mamp, 12dcv device to show power to the system out there?
>Sid
>--------------------
>
>"Alan K. Adamson" wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alan K. Adamson"
>
>Opps, helps if you post the link...
>
>http://www.ledtronics.com/
>
>
>Don't know if this has been posted before or not, but this place has just
>about every LED imaginable and then some.
>
>
>"Why can't we all just get along?"
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>"Why can't we all just get along?"
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
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Message 12
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Subject: | Connections on S704-1 Relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: SMITHBKN@aol.com
Bob,
I've looked at the picture that is available in your reference material, but
I'm still not certain I fully understand what connects to what when using
this relay for switching a SMALL auxillary battery as you show in Z-35. Your
picture shows the following connection labels:
1. (-)
2. (+)
3. COM
4. N.O.
5. N.C.
There is also a IN4005 diode wired between (-) and (+) and I think I
understand it's purpose but if someone could give me some additional information
on
exactly what devices the wires connect to I would appreciate.
Thanks,
Jeff
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: antenna construction |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
DJ-
We got a kit from RST Engineering that had a roll of copper foil tape and
some other harware to make dipole antennas. We put a VOR and a glideslope
antenna in the wing of our Lancair ES and they work great. The kit comes
with a booklet with all the info you need to make just about every kind of
antenna. Call Jim Weir and ask if he still does the kit.
Hope this helps,
John Schroeder
On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 11:17:56 -0400, Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
>
> Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>> http://www.rst-engr.com/
>
> Hi Kevin,
> Thanks for the link! That wasn't the site I was thinking of but
> that looks like a good one. They have a booklet they sell for $5 that
> apparently has several airplane antenna plans in it, and probably worth
> getting to have on hand.
>
> The site I was thinking of had plans and list of materials
> on it so you could build the antennas yourself from raw parts. I've
> tried Google with no luck, and I can't seem to find the bookmark for the
> site. Ah well...
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Dj
> do not archive
>
--
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: LED power....... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Sid -
Most LEDs you get do not have the resistors needed to bias them. Sooo, you
need to do this. Most fixtures using LED's these days come with the
biasing already installed for that particular fixture/light. All of the
replacement bulbs for cars have the bias installed.
Try the following for some of the how-to stuff:
http://www.eaa724.org/TechnicalStuff%20.html
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/led.htm
http://members.misty.com/don/ledx.html
http://metku.net/index.html?sect=view&n=1&path=mods/ledcalc/index_eng
This should get you going.
John Schroeder
On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 08:44:40 -0700 (PDT), Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com>
wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com>
>
> Yes, nice site with lots of lighting ideas...........but, no tech ideas
> for powering up the little buggers.....
> anyone done this for their panels or other electric/electronic devices
> and can tell me the needed requirements to keep the LED's from burning
> out......?
> Sid
Message 15
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "gary" <gkrysztopik@satx.rr.com>
I recently had what I suspect is a regulator failure with an EA-81 and
Suzuki Samuri alternator. I'm not quite sure exactly what happened but many
many thanks to Bob and the list for helping out when I was wiring my plane
four or five years ago. My backup battery and backup ignition saved me and
got me to the nearest airport (twice).
I have a glass VFR panel but didn't want the complexity and weight of a
bigger aux bus. My simple little 5AH aux battery is only wired to the
backup ignition, second electric fuel pump, and tiny LCD voltmeter. It's
just enough to keep the engine running while I get my handheld radio out
(with VOR for backup nav). I wired it thru a completely different area of
the panel and firewall for complete redundancy. It is connected to the main
bus via a diode for charging. I check every preflight that the backup
battery and ignition are working. That's the good part - it worked as
intended.
I was a long time reader on the list but went thru three big moves over the
last couple years and I wasn't able to keep up with all my lists and missed
a large part of the Paul vs Bob OV discussion as well as anything that took
place since. I'm not sure whether to retain my OV module and solenoid but
I'll be reading up on things. One of my mistakes was to have a partial OV
circuit and the other was not to have sufficient and active engine
monitoring. I'm here to learn so feel free to point out any other mistakes
that we can learn from.
- OV circuit problem last year - I noticed my battery was run down because
the alternator was not charging it. I found that the alternator contactor
was not closing (used in OV circuit for internally regulated alternators per
aeroelectric schematic). I attributed the failure to a poor mounting
location - I tried to keep it simple so I put it right between the alt and
starter which was on the subaru cylinder head where there were spare
mounting holes already tapped in the head. I'm guessing excessive heat and
vibration caused the failure. I bypassed the contactor but left the OV
module in there intending to relocate the contactor. I should have
disconnected the circuit - either all in or all out.
- gnd strap problem last fall - while starting the plane, the power
fluctuated then dropped out. I traced it to a loose ground strap. Funny, I
made all my big cables per Bob's 12 ga wire wedge solder method and all held
up great. For some reason I wanted a nice braided steel ground strap so I
bought two custom length from an aircraft place for battery to firewall and
engine block to firewall. These are the ones that failed - the crimp was
loose and the strap pulled right out. Lesson - make redundant ground
straps. Another lesson - I gently tug on all bat and gnd straps preflight
but the two gnd straps were neatly tie wrapped together so when I checked
them, the good one was supporting the bad one. That's both good and bad I
guess. I mention this because the incident blew some fuses and must have
sent some spikes thru the system, possibly reducing the life of the
regulator?
- in-flight failure #1 - the other week on the way to SNF, radio blinks,
popping in headset, then panel goes black and engine gets quiet. Backup
switch on, engine comes back up and land at nearest. Probe around and find
battery contactor chattering, not able to keep bat and alt on main bus.
Probe around engine and panel for a couple hours, everything else looks ok
except alt OV breaker was popped (missed hint?). I assumed the main bus
disconnect sent a spike thru the system and popped the breaker. I had a
contactor fail before, made sense so I called around for one. No luck, so I
move cables to one side of contactor to bypass. Only one hour flight to SNF
so I'll find one there. Very long runup, everything looks good - off I go.
- in-flight failure #2 - 15 minutes into flight, radio starts blinking and I
start cursing. I notice aux bat volts fluctuating between 15.x and 16.x
(this is after diode drop from main bus). This is normally at 13.8 volts.
Aha! The regulator is bad! Everything goes out again. "golly, gosh darn
it" (ya right) Backup switch on, engine comes on again (whew!). Land at
nearest. Bad place to land but that's another story. I pull the alt and
get a ride to town. I went to an auto parts store and they tested it. It
failed on the tester "when the switch was on alternator but passed when it
was set to generator". They had no idea what that meant but it sounded like
a bad regulator to me. They didn't have a Suzuki Samuri alternator in stock
but said a guy up the road fixes them. Off to the guy up the road and he
tested it. "Nothing wrong with this alternator" he said. I asked to keep
testing, and he got it really hot under full load and it still worked.
Maybe under vibration or higher rpm? Dunno. Went to another auto parts
store and they ordered one - "be here in two hours". They tested it and it
passed on a third type of test stand, this one fully automated. I wanted
new anyway.
Got the new alt, went back and installed it, but the battery wouldn't come
up after charging so it was toast. I found the same size and replaced it.
I also removed the overvoltage circuit and removed a diode to ground on the
field line from the contactor. It's normally not good to make more than one
change at a time but I wanted to remove all in doubt and try to recreate the
problem later at home. I ran it up for a long time not feeling good that I
didn't understand exactly what happened or find and fix a hard failure.
Told the tower that I was going to keep climbing and circling for a while,
and everything seemed ok.
Made it Lakeland (after doing several laps around Lake Parker #$%@&
!),
couldn't find a contactor and never found anything else wrong. So it made
it to my new home after another 10 hours as-is. Everything seems fine with
the new alt, new bat and contactor bypassed (I already ordered a new master
contactor).
- is it likely for the regulator to go bad but test ok?
- would the regulator shut itself down? (someone said they do that)
- would the OV ciruit have pulled the "field" line down and caused screwy
operation because the OV contactor was not there?
- would an overvoltage toast the master contactor?
- the first main bus failure makes sense if the master contactor removed all
power, but the second time they were hard wired (stupid, yes). Would the OV
toast an RG battery that quick? Battery goes high temp and shorts?
- do I replace the OV circuit and contactor? I had about 150 hours on it
with no problems using the OV circuit.
Happy to share my stupidity so nobody else does that, and highly recommend
simple redundant circuits that will get you home. Also happy to provide
real-world data for discussion here. In my feeble defense, this
cross-country move came up quickly with a fixed timeframe so I scrambled to
clean up details on the plane but didn't get to replacing or removing OV
stuff. The plane flew great from RI to FL after 10 hours and when it failed
I was 1000 miles from anyone I knew. If I was near home I don't think I
would have continued until it was 100% but I'm also not sure that I would
have found anything more than I did. I saved the old alt so I can try to
get it to fail (Bob - you want it?). It would be nice to know what happened
and improve my design. I'm 90% done with a homemade engine monitor. I have
three hall-effect current sensors in place and audio warning with data
recording. Would have been nice but I still have 90% to go on it. I think
I'll sell that project and buy a new one soon.
Gary Krysztopik
Pelican/Stratus - 175 hours
San Antonio, TX
Message 16
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com>
Wow, lots of reading and viewing, but I"m up to it...........getting started tonight.......and
Thank you.
Sid
---------------------------
John Schroeder <jschroeder@> wrote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Schroeder"
Sid -
Most LEDs you get do not have the resistors needed to bias them. Sooo, you
need to do this. Most fixtures using LED's these days come with the
biasing already installed for that particular fixture/light. All of the
replacement bulbs for cars have the bias installed.
Try the following for some of the how-to stuff:
http://www.eaa724.org/TechnicalStuff%20.html
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/led.htm
http://members.misty.com/don/ledx.html
http://metku.net/index.html?sect=view&n=1&path=mods/ledcalc/index_eng
This should get you going.
John Schroeder
On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 08:44:40 -0700 (PDT), Sid Hausding
wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sid Hausding
>
> Yes, nice site with lots of lighting ideas...........but, no tech ideas
> for powering up the little buggers.....
> anyone done this for their panels or other electric/electronic devices
> and can tell me the needed requirements to keep the LED's from burning
> out......?
> Sid
"Why can't we all just get along?"
---------------------------------
Message 17
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|
Subject: | Alternator B Lead protection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Lectric Bob:
I'm using a version of your Z-12 architecture modified for a single 60 AMP
alternator (no backup YET, after the airplane flies I'll add an SD-8). My
question has to do with alternator B lead fusing and I'll get right to the
point.....
Is it really necessary to put a fuse, breaker or ANL in this circuit?
My thinking on this goes as follows:
1) The B lead would be routed from the alternator to the contactor on the
engine side of the firewall only (no heavy wire inside the cockpit).
2) I'm using an 8 gauge Tefzel wire provided in Van's wiring kit.
3) An 8 gauge Tefzel wire will experience appx 30 degree (C) temperature
rise at the 60 amps provided by the alternator at maximum output.
4) Even sitting next to a 200 degree (F) engine crankcase the temperature
rise on the wire should be within the capability of the wire insulation.
5) Even under extreme charging circumstances the full 60 amps of the
alternator will not be flowing in the wire for long periods, limiting the
duration of the temperature rise and insulation stress
6) B&C 60 amp externally regulated alternator with LR-3 reg/OV protect
The only condition that I can think of that might cause trouble and where a
fuse/breaker/ANL would mitigate a possible hazard is:
An alternator fault that allows a dead short between the battery positive
and crankcase ground through the alternator windings and the B lead. This
could burn up the windings in the alternator and possibly melt the B lead.
Is this the scenario that the ANL on the B lead is designed to mitigate?
What are the probabilities that such a scenario would occur in the field?
Any experience with this type of fault in 40 years of working on spam cans?
Would you advise against leaving this ANL out or is it just "extra
insurance" for some other scenario I'm missing? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Crimping and soldering
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