AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Tue 04/18/06


Total Messages Posted: 11



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:01 AM - 14V from 28V system (N395V)
     2. 06:49 AM - Re: 14V from 28V system (Brian Lloyd)
     3. 06:49 AM - Re: SD-8 PM Alternator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     4. 07:11 AM - right angle BNC (rd2@evenlink.com)
     5. 07:49 AM - Re: 14V from 28V system (N395V)
     6. 01:12 PM - Re: Wire length vs. fuse size (Wes Bunker)
     7. 03:36 PM - Re: Wire length vs. fuse size (Jerry Grimmonpre)
     8. 08:06 PM - strobes remote from power packs (bob noffs)
     9. 09:15 PM - Helmet & Headset ponderings (Mark E Navratil)
    10. 09:43 PM - wigwag flasher with one light (randall)
    11. 10:24 PM - Re: wigwag flasher with one light (Bob C.)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:01:46 AM PST US
    Subject: 14V from 28V system
    From: "N395V" <N395V@direcway.com>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "N395V" <N395V@direcway.com> I am building a 28V system and have some items that will be 14v others that can go 28 or 14V. Is it better to use a 28-14v converter or use 2 14 V batteries in series and tap off the center? -------- Milt N395V F1 Rocket Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29091#29091


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:49:05 AM PST US
    From: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
    Subject: Re: 14V from 28V system
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com> N395V wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "N395V" <N395V@direcway.com> > > I am building a 28V system and have some items that will be 14v others that can go 28 or 14V. > > Is it better to use a 28-14v converter or use 2 14 V batteries in series and tap off the center? It is much better to use a converter or, better still, an equalizer. The problem with center tapping the batteries is that you will force the lower battery into an undercharged state and the upper battery into an overcharged state. You will quickly destroy the upper battery and the lower battery will permanently suffer a loss of capacity leading to its early failure. And when I say "early" I am talking on the order of 40 hours or less. There are a number of companies making switching-type DC-DC converters that are very efficient. The only problem is that they become a single point of failure in your system. If that converter fails you have no 14V for anything that needs it. Better still is a battery equalizer. This device connects across your pair of batteries and to the center tap between them, i.e. to ground, to the center tap, and to the 28V bus. It is a converter but it maintains the center tap at exactly 1/2 the voltage of the hot lead. The equalizer serves three purposes: 1. it ensures that both batteries charge equally and neither overcharges at the expense of the other; 2. it carries the load for your 14V devices ensuring that you don't damage either battery; 3. if you lose the charging system it makes the energy from both batteries available for your 14V loads. And if the equalizer fails you still have the lower battery available to provide power to your 14V loads. Sure it is hard on the batteries but it will allow you to finish your flight without losing your 14V loads. I have used equalizers from Sure Power Industries. Their equalizers range from 30A to 100A. See: http://www.surepower.com/conv.html. -- Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630 +1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax) I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . . - Antoine de Saint-Exupery


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:49:05 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: SD-8 PM Alternator
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 10:50 PM 4/13/2006 -0400, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. Mcculley" ><mcculleyja@starpower.net> > >Bob N,et al, > >There has been periodic discussion on this list in the past about the >SD-8(& maybe other permanent magnet alternators)not being capable of >coming on line if the battery or other power source to the buss fails or >is not otherwise available to activate the SD-8. <snip> You've done a nice piece of work here sir and I want you to know that my silence thus far is for want of all the materials I'm looking for (and time) to give you the reply it deserves. I'm running one foot in the bucket and the other in a fire right now . . . but I did find the schematic for a PM alternator that I'd misplaced. More on this soon . . . Bob . . .


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:11:02 AM PST US
    From: rd2@evenlink.com
    Subject: right angle BNC
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com No solder, it looks like I have just to push the center conductor in place. It's 2 piece - the angle BNC and the piece that crimps over the jacket. It's the no solder connection that concerns me a bit. I have a picture, but I think the list strips attachments. The other (less elegant but probably better contactwise) option is to get an old fashioned straight BNC (center soldered, jacket crimped) and a 90 degree adapter. Thanks for the input. Rumen do not archive _____________________Original message __________________________ (received from Gilles Thesee; Date: 10:58 PM 4/17/2006 +0200) --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr> rd2@evenlink.com a crit : > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com > > I am about to install a right angle crimp type 2 piece solderless BNC but > am not sure what holds the coax center to assure good contact. Can anyone > enlighten me? > In some models, once you've crimped the center conductor, you push the center contact in place. In other models, you have to solder the core to the center pin, then press in the small cover. Works well too. Hope this helps, Regards, Gilles Thesee Grenoble, France http://contrails.free.fr ------------------------------------- --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com> You crimp the center conductor or solder it? Good Luck, Bob is SE Iowa


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:49:35 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: 14V from 28V system
    From: "N395V" <N395V@direcway.com>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "N395V" <N395V@direcway.com> Brian, Thanks the equalizer looks just like what the Dr ordered. Do not Archive -------- Milt N395V F1 Rocket Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29138#29138


    Message 6


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    Time: 01:12:13 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wire length vs. fuse size
    From: "Wes Bunker" <wesbflyer@surewest.net>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wes Bunker" <wesbflyer@surewest.net> Jerry, fuse size is not based on wire length, but wire gage, or diameter. You can find the fuse size to wire size assignment in AC43.13-1B on page 11-15 in Table 11-3. Remember, first you determine MINIMUM wire size as described in section 5, and then the MAXIMUM fuse size per section 4. Have fun! -------- Wes N7337G C172K Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29210#29210


    Message 7


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    Time: 03:36:24 PM PST US
    From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net>
    Subject: Re: Wire length vs. fuse size
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net> Do Not Archive My thanks to the list ... I've got a 10 AWG wire and 20A inline fuse designed into the mix. I'm on my way to ordering lots of electrical stuff. Jerry Grimmonpre' RV8A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com> Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 7:09 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wire length vs. fuse size > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com> > > Jerry. > > It seems to me that if you are going to fuse it for 20A you need to > size the wire for 20A also what you are protecting is an overload on > the wire! . . . 12 ft isn't going to be a huge deal . . . if you are > concerned go up one size. > > Good Luck, > Bob in SE Iowa > > On 4/17/06, LarryRobertHelming <lhelming@sigecom.net> wrote: >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" >> <lhelming@sigecom.net> >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> >> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" >> > <jerry@mc.net> >> > >> > Bob ... >> > If a load of 15A is fed with a 12 foot length of wire, is an inline >> > fuse >> > used in this situation? Is the fuse size increased to accommodate the >> > wire >> > length? What size fuse would be needed? This wire will feed the >> > endurance >> > bus from the aft battery lug (bypassing the aft contactor) as a >> > continuous >> > backup source of power. >> > Thanks ... >> > Jerry Grimmonpre' >> > >> > >> Jerry, you first need to figure the size wire you need for pushing 15A 12 >> feet. There is a chart in Bob's book on this. You can always use a >> larger >> wire for added protection but that increases your weight. >> >> Next, you want to protect the wire you select by using the right size >> fuse. >> The wire will handle the 15A with a bit of safety built in. You are >> pushing >> 15A maximum. So you should use a 20A fuse since a 15A fuse might give >> you >> blown fuse when it is just working normally. >> >> Indiana Larry >> > >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:06:31 PM PST US
    From: "bob noffs" <icubob@newnorth.net>
    Subject: strobes remote from power packs
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "bob noffs" <icubob@newnorth.net> hi bob, i am planning to put wingtip strobes on and mount the powerpacks in the cabin. the light assemblies are supplied by 3 wires. a ground, a 12 volt wire for the incad. bulb, and the high voltage wire to the strobes. do i need shielded wire for this? which wires do i need to shield? just the high voltage? thanks in advance, bob noffs


    Message 9


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    Time: 09:15:25 PM PST US
    Subject: Helmet & Headset ponderings
    From: Mark E Navratil <czechsix@juno.com>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark E Navratil <czechsix@juno.com> Guys, I've been enjoying my trusty helmet but as the wx turns warmer I'm thinking I'll probably break down and get a good ANR headset. The head bucket is just too hot to wear when it gets into the upper 80's and beyond. The other thing I've noticed is that the Oregon Aero earseals in my helmet get extremely soft with higher temps and don't seem to seal as well as they do in wintertime....they're very comfortable (as advertised) but the ANR has a hard time keeping up with the noise level and I find it bothersome after several hours in the air. FWIW I have the Headsets Inc ANR in my helmet earcups and I imagine there are better systems available from the likes of Bose and Lightspeed. So...I've been looking at ANR headsets and figure if I'm gonna spend some dough, might as well get a good one and only cry once. I'm sure Bose is the best but I can't quite believe the cost/benefit tradeoff is worth the $1K price tag. So I'm looking at Lightspeed's top-of-the-line Thirty 3G instead. It is cheap by comparison at about half the price of the Bose X (iPilot.com has the Thirty 3G for $559 with free shipping). Couple questions: does anybody know if Lightspeed might have a better deal available at Oshkosh? If they have really good show specials it might be worth waiting... Also, any pireps on the Thirty 3G series or similar high-end Lightspeed model would be appreciated. In general I've heard that Lightspeed headsets are comfortable and work well, sometimes break but have good factory support to replace parts. One of my hangarmates has a pair of well-used Lightspeeds that have the thin covering pealing away from the foam earseals and head cushions. Still works but looks like crap... Thanks as always for the input, --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D flying 25.0 hours now, first oil change just completed...


    Message 10


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    Time: 09:43:42 PM PST US
    From: "randall" <rv6n6r@comcast.net>
    Subject: wigwag flasher with one light
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "randall" <rv6n6r@comcast.net> I bought the Aeroelectric SSF-1 wig-wag flasher and used it happily but just recently swapped out one of my lights for an HID so I'll only be flashing the other (Duckworks halogen) light. The SSF-1 is designed for 2 lights and the directions say it won't work without a load on both sides. Any ideas about getting this thing to "wig" without a "wag"? Randall Henderson RV-6


    Message 11


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    Time: 10:24:12 PM PST US
    From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: wigwag flasher with one light
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com> Randall, Put a resistor in place of the bulb where the "HID" moved in (probably near the WW circuit? 55W/14V= about 4A 4A/14V = About 3.5 Ohms . . . the resistor will probably get a little warm? and probably 50+W version? will probably be several inches long, or parallel two 7 ohm 30W resistors, etc. There may be a better dummy load but the above will work. Good Luck, Bob in SE Iowa On 4/18/06, randall <rv6n6r@comcast.net> wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "randall" <rv6n6r@comcast.net> > > I bought the Aeroelectric SSF-1 wig-wag flasher and used it happily but just > recently swapped out one of my lights for an HID so I'll only be flashing > the other (Duckworks halogen) light. > > The SSF-1 is designed for 2 lights and the directions say it won't work > without a load on both sides. Any ideas about getting this thing to "wig" > without a "wag"? > > Randall Henderson > RV-6 > >




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