---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 04/28/06: 9 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 03:52 AM - Re: Re: Charging system failure (Ken) 2. 04:27 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 04/27/06 (Terry Lamp) 3. 05:50 AM - Re: Canopy Latched Sensor (George Neal E Capt HQ AU/XPRR) 4. 06:09 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 04/27/06 (Ernest Christley) 5. 06:24 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 04/27/06 (Ernest Christley) 6. 11:40 AM - Re: Plane power Alternator pictures () 7. 02:15 PM - Re: Plane power Alternator pictures (N777TY) 8. 03:27 PM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 04/27/06 (Joe Dubner) 9. 04:59 PM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 04/27/06 (Matt Prather) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 03:52:10 AM PST US From: Ken Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Charging system failure --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken DAVID REEL wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" > >I'm back from the airport & have some further info about this problem. > >With a digital voltmeter across the battery, I read charging voltage of 15.3 >volts. It was very unstable, jittering around a lot by about +/- a half a >volt. Replaced the VR166 with a NAPA VR428 and now the charging voltage is >pretty stable at 14.8. Jitters are gone. The Panasonic battery spec sheet >calls for charging voltages from 14.5 to 14.9. I'm working on a fusible >link replacement for the fuse but I'm still curious whether a 10 amp buss >fuse is likely to blow before a 5 amp circuit breaker. > Yes Dave. I'd suspect even a 20 amp fuse would likely blow before the breaker. These C/B's are much much slower than these fuses even though there might be way over 20 amps flowing. I got away with a 10 amp fuse feeding a 2.5 (two point five) amp breaker with an internal VR alternator but that won't work for your situation. Especially at cool temperatures, I'd consider 14.8 volts to be normal. And I agree with your diagnosis that the OVM probably worked properly. My OVM are set to trip at 16.3 volts. Ken > Comparing meter >readings, the drop through the isolation diode amounts to 1 volt, not the .5 >volts I previously thought as the engine monitor now reads 13.8v. > >To answer other questions that came up, the wire size is 18awg from main bus >to circuit breaker, 20awg everywhere else. The system worked for 7.8 engine >hours til it tripped the crowbar which I now think worked properly. The >regulator is mounted on the upper right side of the firewall in the engine >compartment & depends on the firewall for it's ground return path. > >Dave Reel > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:27:29 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 04/27/06 Cc: jdubner@yahoo.com From: Terry Lamp --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Terry Lamp Joe here is a picture of my install. http://home.columbus.rr.com/tlamp/mvc-398f.jpg and my entire construction page of the Long EZ at: http://home.columbus.rr.com/tlamp/planpics.htm I'm sure you have seen this type before, it has the typical microswitch located behind the latch. I think it would be better if I also had a magnetic switch inline to also verify that the canopy is shut, as the latch can be locked and the canopy not captured. It is pretty obvious if that happens, but it would be a safer installation. Terry Lamp Long EZ N977JT Ohio ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 09:24:26 AM PST US From: Joe Dubner Subject: AeroElectric-List: Canopy Latched Sensor --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe Dubner I'm looking for a better way to implement the canopy unlatched warning system on a Long-EZ. The standard method is to use a small microswitch that responds to "canopy latched". (This is not the same as "canopy closed", which would be easy enough to implement but I want a "latched" indication.) Here's an illustration of the standard system: http://users.lewiston.com/hth/jd/CanopyLockMicroswitch.jpg When the canopy locking handle is pushed forward (left in the image) far enough to latch the canopy locking mechanism, the head of the screw on the handle (at the right in the image) fits in the hole on the latch and actives the microswitch through its (specially bent) lever. I'm not happy with the microswitch as it doesn't hold up well under use and wonder if any Aeroelectric Connection readers can come up with a better idea. I've searched for optical interrupters but can't find one with a gap large enough for the head of the relatively large #10 screw. I'm not familiar with any specific reflective-type optical sensors but I'm guessing that would be the way to go. Any ideas? Thanks, Joe Long-EZ 821RP Lewiston, ID ************************************************************************* *****************Confidentiality Notice:****************************** ************************************************************************* The information contained in this e-mail message, including any attachments, is intended only for use of the individual or entity named above (addressee). This e-mail may contain information that is privileged, confidential and/or otherwise exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, any disclosure, dissemination, distribution, copying or other use of the communication or its substance is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please reply to this e-mail indicating you are not the intended recipient and immediately destroy all copies of this e-mail. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient is not a waiver of any privileged information. ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:50:23 AM PST US Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Canopy Latched Sensor From: "George Neal E Capt HQ AU/XPRR" --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "George Neal E Capt HQ AU/XPRR" Joe - Twist the end of the stainless strap 90-degrees and mount the optical sensor around the end. The screw head will push it out of the gate to break the optical path. Neal 334-953-4137 RV-7 N8ZG wiring Z13-8 Still looking for an optical solution ... -- Joe >> >>I'm looking for a better way to implement the canopy unlatched warning >>system on a Long-EZ. The standard method is to use a small >>microswitch that responds to "canopy latched". (This is not the same >>as "canopy closed", which would be easy enough to implement but I want a "latched" >>indication.) >> >>Here's an illustration of the standard system: >>http://users.lewiston.com/hth/jd/CanopyLockMicroswitch.jpg >> ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:09:18 AM PST US From: Ernest Christley Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 04/27/06 --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ernest Christley AeroElectric-List Digest Server wrote: >________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ > > >Time: 03:22:31 PM PST US >From: Joe Dubner >Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Canopy Latched Sensor > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe Dubner > >Thanks, Dave but the metal-to-metal contact isn't reliable. The screw >head fits loosely inside the hole in the latch and the screw's grip >doesn't necessarily make solid contact with the edge of the .020" SS >latch. And there's no pressure on the "contacts". > >Still looking for an optical solution ... > > > Make a "washer" from the .020" SS, one that has a long tab coming out one side. Put the tab under the screwhead and arrange it so that the tab interrupts the optical sensor. -- ,|"|"|, Ernest Christley | ----===<{{(oQo)}}>===---- Dyke Delta Builder | o| d |o www.ernest.isa-geek.org | ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:24:41 AM PST US From: Ernest Christley Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 04/27/06 --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ernest Christley AeroElectric-List Digest Server wrote: >________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ > > >Time: 03:22:31 PM PST US >From: Joe Dubner >Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Canopy Latched Sensor > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe Dubner > >Thanks, Dave but the metal-to-metal contact isn't reliable. The screw >head fits loosely inside the hole in the latch and the screw's grip >doesn't necessarily make solid contact with the edge of the .020" SS >latch. And there's no pressure on the "contacts". > >Still looking for an optical solution ... > > > Make a "washer" from the .020" SS, one that has a long tab coming out one side. Put the tab under the screwhead and arrange it so that the tab interrupts the optical sensor. -- ,|"|"|, Ernest Christley | ----===<{{(oQo)}}>===---- Dyke Delta Builder | o| d |o www.ernest.isa-geek.org | ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 11:40:09 AM PST US From: Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Plane power Alternator pictures --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: >From: "Jekyll" > >I forgot to mention that Steve (PP) stated his internal VR is solid >state and includes a crowbar. Jekyll Thanks Jekyll, I just got off the phone and you are correct. They sourced the power for the field brushes only thru the external power lead, not the output. The OV module is a crow bar and pops the 5 amp CB. He also said there is OV protection on the chip but this is additional protection incase the chip shorts. Sounds good to me. Light, simple and easy to install. http://www.plane-power.com/images/AL12_EI60%20Installation.pdf They also have custom fans (made from their tooling) that run CCW. George --------------------------------- Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min. ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 02:15:03 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Plane power Alternator pictures From: "N777TY" --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "N777TY" Can that 60 Amp breaker be replaced with ANL from B & C? This looks like an attractive option to the B $$$ C setup.. -------- RV-7A N777TY (res) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31463#31463 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 03:27:23 PM PST US From: Joe Dubner Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 04/27/06 --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe Dubner > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ernest Christley > Make a "washer" from the .020" SS, one that has a long tab coming out > one side. Put the tab under the screwhead and arrange it so that the > tab interrupts the optical sensor. There isn't enough clearance for a tab, long or short, coming out one side as the head of the screw is nearly in contact with the latching mechanism. When latched, the head actually passes through the hole in the latch but "enroute" to latching, it drags across the surface of the latch mechanism until it "drops into" the hole. The latching mechanism is "springy" SS (.020"). I've received some good ideas but what I really want is an optical solution, with no metal-to-metal contact. Apparently an optical interrupter approach is out because of the clearance involved (the gap is far too tiny for the head of the #10 screw). But what about a reflective optical sensor? It would mount on the inside of the hinged door (which is open in the photo) and see nothing under unlatched conditions. When the canopy is latched, the head of the screw would reflect light and activate the sensor. Has anyone done this? I see lots of datasheets for reflective optical sensors but I don't know specifically which ones are readily available, inexpensive, long focal length, useful and stable output level, etc. Does anyone have real-world experience with one and can recommend a specific part number? Thanks, Joe http://users.lewiston.com/hth/jd/CanopyLockMicroswitch.jpg ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 04:59:07 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 04/27/06 From: "Matt Prather" --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" I found that digikey has a large variety of slot type optical switches for reasonable prices. So far, it seems that all of them would require just a tiny bit of glue logic to make them work. Mechanically, instead of configuring the switch so that the screw head interrupts the LED beam, design a lever arrangement which causes a flag to be actuated when the screw head is in position. Attempt at a picture which might be worth a few hundred words: http://www.webpak.net/~mprather/Share/switch.jpg When the screw head is in the latched position, the flag is moved such that light passing between trasmitter and receiver are interrupted. Drawn in the unlatched position. Regards, Matt- > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe Dubner > >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ernest Christley >> > >> Make a "washer" from the .020" SS, one that has a long tab coming out >> one side. Put the tab under the screwhead and arrange it so that the >> tab interrupts the optical sensor. > > There isn't enough clearance for a tab, long or short, coming out one > side as the head of the screw is nearly in contact with the latching > mechanism. When latched, the head actually passes through the hole in > the latch but "enroute" to latching, it drags across the surface of the > latch mechanism until it "drops into" the hole. The latching mechanism > is "springy" SS (.020"). > > I've received some good ideas but what I really want is an optical > solution, with no metal-to-metal contact. > > Apparently an optical interrupter approach is out because of the > clearance involved (the gap is far too tiny for the head of the #10 > screw). > > But what about a reflective optical sensor? It would mount on the > inside of the hinged door (which is open in the photo) and see nothing > under unlatched conditions. When the canopy is latched, the head of the > screw would reflect light and activate the sensor. > > Has anyone done this? I see lots of datasheets for reflective optical > sensors but I don't know specifically which ones are readily available, > inexpensive, long focal length, useful and stable output level, etc. > Does anyone have real-world experience with one and can recommend a > specific part number? > > Thanks, > Joe > http://users.lewiston.com/hth/jd/CanopyLockMicroswitch.jpg > >