Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:32 AM - Re: LED Repeaters... (Greg Campbell)
2. 06:26 PM - Re: Re: LED Repeaters... (Bob White)
3. 07:25 PM - Re: Flightcom 403 Aux inputs (RURUNY@aol.com)
4. 08:35 PM - Re: Re: How to wire switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: LED Repeaters... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Greg Campbell <gregcampbellusa@gmail.com>
Thanks Bob White,
The solid state relay seems like a perfect fit.
DigiKey sells the Clare LCA110 for about $2.30 each.
Here's the Spec Sheet and catalog links:
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T062/1557.pdf
http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Clare%20Web%20Data/LCA110.pdf
http://rocky.digikey.com/scripts/ProductInfo.dll?Site=US
<http://rocky.digikey.com/scripts/ProductInfo.dll?Site=US&V=212&M=LCA110>
&V=212&M=LCA110
I'm guessing they call it an "Opto Relay" because it uses
an internal LED to activate another circuit that acts as the relay contacts.
So naturally the "coil" side of the relay is driven by LED input levels.
This stirs vague memories of "Opto Isolators" and position sensors.
The output is rated up to 350vAC or DC and up to 0.12A
- more than enough for my little job! (12vdc @ .08A)
The fiber optic solution was creative, but not practical for the
distances & involved - some LED's are 30' away and need to be bright.
Note that this relay manufacturer is spelled Clare, not Clair.
Apparently Omron and others sell the same gizmo.
That slowed my Google search down by a few nano-seconds.
I'm heading over to the local electronics monger to see what he has.
Thanks again Bob for pointing me to the solution!
Greg Campbell
Lancair ES - flying in primer
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: LED Repeaters... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bob White <bob@bob-white.com>
On Thu, 11 May 2006 08:25:47 -0400
Greg Campbell <gregcampbellusa@gmail.com> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Greg Campbell <gregcampbellusa@gmail.com>
>
> Thanks Bob White,
>
> The solid state relay seems like a perfect fit.
> DigiKey sells the Clare LCA110 for about $2.30 each.
>
> Here's the Spec Sheet and catalog links:
> http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T062/1557.pdf
> http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Clare%20Web%20Data/LCA110.pdf
> http://rocky.digikey.com/scripts/ProductInfo.dll?Site=US
> <http://rocky.digikey.com/scripts/ProductInfo.dll?Site=US&V=212&M=LCA110>
> &V=212&M=LCA110
>
> I'm guessing they call it an "Opto Relay" because it uses
> an internal LED to activate another circuit that acts as the relay contacts.
>
> So naturally the "coil" side of the relay is driven by LED input levels.
> This stirs vague memories of "Opto Isolators" and position sensors.
>
> The output is rated up to 350vAC or DC and up to 0.12A
> - more than enough for my little job! (12vdc @ .08A)
>
> The fiber optic solution was creative, but not practical for the
> distances & involved - some LED's are 30' away and need to be bright.
>
> Note that this relay manufacturer is spelled Clare, not Clair.
> Apparently Omron and others sell the same gizmo.
> That slowed my Google search down by a few nano-seconds.
> I'm heading over to the local electronics monger to see what he has.
>
> Thanks again Bob for pointing me to the solution!
> Greg Campbell
> Lancair ES - flying in primer
>
You're welcome.
Bob W.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
--
http://www.bob-white.com
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 (first engine start 1/7/06)
Custom Cables for your rotary installation -
http://www.roblinphoto.com/shop/
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Flightcom 403 Aux inputs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: RURUNY@aol.com
Pete or anyone,
I have a 403 MC with one aux input into it. I will be putting the audio out
from my Dynon
D10-A, Music input, and the GRT EIS tone into this input. I bought the
components
recommended by Pete below. I'm figuring that these components will isolate
each input
from the other but could someone explain the math and reasoning for doing
this. I would also
like to see the best way of incorporating these components in the
installation, maybe just soldered together and wrapped in heatshrink at the input
to
the intercom, or should these be mounted on a separate board? Thanks for the
help.
Brian Unruh
Long Island
Zenith 701 85%
After some experientation (and good advice from some EE buddies -
thanks Vern) here is what worked pretty well. Each of the inputs
have a 1000 Ohm resistor and a 10uF cap in series with the input.
The exception to this is the EIS tone that just has a 150 Ohm and the
10uF cap. I tried without success to get the warning tone piped into
pin 21 of the FC403 to make it unmuted. In the end, I was happy with
this as it allows me to silence the music and warnings with one flip
of the isolate switch. The EIS also has a warning light to alert
me of engine issues. This setup provides minimal Background noise
and the radios, trafficscope, and EIS each have sufficient volume.
Pete
Message 4
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: How to wire switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 03:08 PM 5/10/2006 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A"
><dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
>
>Stan,
>
>Those are solder tabs. My process steps would be:
>1) slide a piece of shrink tube on the wire (and push a good couple of
>inches away from the end)
>2) strip the end about 3/8" to 1/2"
>3) bend a hook in the bare wires, and hook it in the hole on the tab on
>the switch
>4) squeeze the wires flat against the tab
>5) solder
>6) slide the shrink tube over the tab
>
>Bob probably has pictures on how to do this somewhere on his website...
>
>Dennis Glaeser
Didn't have one . . . but it's a good idea. Went to the junkbox
and dug up a switch . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Switches/Rotary_Soldering_2.jpg
I used to "hook" the wires through terminal holes but after a lot
of years of working with solder-assembled hardware . . . particularly
surface mounted stuff, I found it just as reliable to tack solder
as shown. Use 63/37 electronic grade solder. I strip the wires 1/8",
tin both surfaces at the joint and tack-solder the wire to the
terminal. It's not difficult to get as much or more solder cross-section
in the joint as wires which yields plenty of mechanical strength
and reduces probability of damaging the switch with any attempts
to get a mechanically secure joint before soldering.
The REALLY nice thing about tack-soldering is when it's time to
replace a worn switch (or move a mis-installed wire) you can slit
the heatshrink with a sharp xacto knife and just hit the joint
with a hot iron to detach the wire with a minimum of stress on
the relatively fragile switch terminals.
Bob . . .
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|