---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 05/11/06: 4 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:32 AM - Re: LED Repeaters... (Greg Campbell) 2. 06:26 PM - Re: Re: LED Repeaters... (Bob White) 3. 07:25 PM - Re: Flightcom 403 Aux inputs (RURUNY@aol.com) 4. 08:35 PM - Re: Re: How to wire switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:32:40 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: LED Repeaters... From: Greg Campbell --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Greg Campbell Thanks Bob White, The solid state relay seems like a perfect fit. DigiKey sells the Clare LCA110 for about $2.30 each. Here's the Spec Sheet and catalog links: http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T062/1557.pdf http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Clare%20Web%20Data/LCA110.pdf http://rocky.digikey.com/scripts/ProductInfo.dll?Site=US &V=212&M=LCA110 I'm guessing they call it an "Opto Relay" because it uses an internal LED to activate another circuit that acts as the relay contacts. So naturally the "coil" side of the relay is driven by LED input levels. This stirs vague memories of "Opto Isolators" and position sensors. The output is rated up to 350vAC or DC and up to 0.12A - more than enough for my little job! (12vdc @ .08A) The fiber optic solution was creative, but not practical for the distances & involved - some LED's are 30' away and need to be bright. Note that this relay manufacturer is spelled Clare, not Clair. Apparently Omron and others sell the same gizmo. That slowed my Google search down by a few nano-seconds. I'm heading over to the local electronics monger to see what he has. Thanks again Bob for pointing me to the solution! Greg Campbell Lancair ES - flying in primer ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:26:18 PM PST US From: Bob White Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: LED Repeaters... --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bob White On Thu, 11 May 2006 08:25:47 -0400 Greg Campbell wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Greg Campbell > > Thanks Bob White, > > The solid state relay seems like a perfect fit. > DigiKey sells the Clare LCA110 for about $2.30 each. > > Here's the Spec Sheet and catalog links: > http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T062/1557.pdf > http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Clare%20Web%20Data/LCA110.pdf > http://rocky.digikey.com/scripts/ProductInfo.dll?Site=US > > &V=212&M=LCA110 > > I'm guessing they call it an "Opto Relay" because it uses > an internal LED to activate another circuit that acts as the relay contacts. > > So naturally the "coil" side of the relay is driven by LED input levels. > This stirs vague memories of "Opto Isolators" and position sensors. > > The output is rated up to 350vAC or DC and up to 0.12A > - more than enough for my little job! (12vdc @ .08A) > > The fiber optic solution was creative, but not practical for the > distances & involved - some LED's are 30' away and need to be bright. > > Note that this relay manufacturer is spelled Clare, not Clair. > Apparently Omron and others sell the same gizmo. > That slowed my Google search down by a few nano-seconds. > I'm heading over to the local electronics monger to see what he has. > > Thanks again Bob for pointing me to the solution! > Greg Campbell > Lancair ES - flying in primer > You're welcome. Bob W. DO NOT ARCHIVE -- http://www.bob-white.com N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 (first engine start 1/7/06) Custom Cables for your rotary installation - http://www.roblinphoto.com/shop/ ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:25:51 PM PST US From: RURUNY@aol.com Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Flightcom 403 Aux inputs --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: RURUNY@aol.com Pete or anyone, I have a 403 MC with one aux input into it. I will be putting the audio out from my Dynon D10-A, Music input, and the GRT EIS tone into this input. I bought the components recommended by Pete below. I'm figuring that these components will isolate each input from the other but could someone explain the math and reasoning for doing this. I would also like to see the best way of incorporating these components in the installation, maybe just soldered together and wrapped in heatshrink at the input to the intercom, or should these be mounted on a separate board? Thanks for the help. Brian Unruh Long Island Zenith 701 85% After some experientation (and good advice from some EE buddies - thanks Vern) here is what worked pretty well. Each of the inputs have a 1000 Ohm resistor and a 10uF cap in series with the input. The exception to this is the EIS tone that just has a 150 Ohm and the 10uF cap. I tried without success to get the warning tone piped into pin 21 of the FC403 to make it unmuted. In the end, I was happy with this as it allows me to silence the music and warnings with one flip of the isolate switch. The EIS also has a warning light to alert me of engine issues. This setup provides minimal Background noise and the radios, trafficscope, and EIS each have sufficient volume. Pete ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:35:52 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: How to wire switch --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" At 03:08 PM 5/10/2006 -0400, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A" > > >Stan, > >Those are solder tabs. My process steps would be: >1) slide a piece of shrink tube on the wire (and push a good couple of >inches away from the end) >2) strip the end about 3/8" to 1/2" >3) bend a hook in the bare wires, and hook it in the hole on the tab on >the switch >4) squeeze the wires flat against the tab >5) solder >6) slide the shrink tube over the tab > >Bob probably has pictures on how to do this somewhere on his website... > >Dennis Glaeser Didn't have one . . . but it's a good idea. Went to the junkbox and dug up a switch . . . http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Switches/Rotary_Soldering_2.jpg I used to "hook" the wires through terminal holes but after a lot of years of working with solder-assembled hardware . . . particularly surface mounted stuff, I found it just as reliable to tack solder as shown. Use 63/37 electronic grade solder. I strip the wires 1/8", tin both surfaces at the joint and tack-solder the wire to the terminal. It's not difficult to get as much or more solder cross-section in the joint as wires which yields plenty of mechanical strength and reduces probability of damaging the switch with any attempts to get a mechanically secure joint before soldering. The REALLY nice thing about tack-soldering is when it's time to replace a worn switch (or move a mis-installed wire) you can slit the heatshrink with a sharp xacto knife and just hit the joint with a hot iron to detach the wire with a minimum of stress on the relatively fragile switch terminals. Bob . . .