Today's Message Index:
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1. 07:13 AM - Di-Electric Grease; where used (Wayne Sweet)
2. 08:37 AM - Re: Di-Electric Grease; where used (Richard E. Tasker)
3. 09:03 AM - Re: Di-Electric Grease; where used (Matt Prather)
4. 12:39 PM - Re: Di-Electric Grease; where used (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 03:10 PM - Re: Canopy Latched Sensor (Joe Dubner)
6. 03:33 PM - Re: Re: Canopy Latched Sensor (Brian Lloyd)
7. 04:31 PM - Glass connectors (Alan K. Adamson)
8. 07:28 PM - RPM sensor wires ()
9. 08:16 PM - Re: RPM sensor wires (Bruce Gray)
10. 08:33 PM - Re: Ebay #9723825338 (Robert G. Wright)
Message 1
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Subject: | Di-Electric Grease; where used |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wayne Sweet" <w_sweet@comcast.net>
My other toy is a motorcycle, which has electronic everything. Some =
riders strongly advocate to apply dielectric grease the connectors for =
corrosion protection. But a dielectric is a non-conductor; seem =
counter-productive. What am I missing here?
Wayne
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Di-Electric Grease; where used |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
It has to be a non-conductor or you would short every pin to every other
pin. The purpose of the grease is to exclude oxygen and moisture - both
of which are needed to degrade the contacts.
Dick Tasker
Do not archive
Wayne Sweet wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wayne Sweet" <w_sweet@comcast.net>
>
>My other toy is a motorcycle, which has electronic everything. Some =
>riders strongly advocate to apply dielectric grease the connectors for =
>corrosion protection. But a dielectric is a non-conductor; seem =
>counter-productive. What am I missing here?
>
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Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Di-Electric Grease; where used |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Prather <mprather@spro.net>
Hi Wayne,
Here's my understanding:
Properly designed electrical connectors make gas-tight connections
between the conductors. This means that as well as squishing all of the
air out of the interface, closing the connection will also squish out
any other liquid/grease in the joint, including dielectric grease.
Applying dielectric grease to a properly designed connector will not
interfere with the conductive properties of the joint because the grease
will get squished out of the places where the joint is gas-tigth.
However, applying dielectric grease may stave off corrosion at the
margins of the joint. At the margins (edge) of a connection, there may
exist narrow (microscopic) crevices/voids, which can be the perfect
environment for corrosion of the materials used to make the connection.
Regards,
Matt-
Wayne Sweet wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wayne Sweet" <w_sweet@comcast.net>
>
>My other toy is a motorcycle, which has electronic everything. Some =
>riders strongly advocate to apply dielectric grease the connectors for =
>corrosion protection. But a dielectric is a non-conductor; seem =
>counter-productive. What am I missing here?
>Wayne
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Di-Electric Grease; where used |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 07:07 AM 5/14/2006 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wayne Sweet" <w_sweet@comcast.net>
>
>My other toy is a motorcycle, which has electronic everything. Some =
>riders strongly advocate to apply dielectric grease the connectors for =
>corrosion protection. But a dielectric is a non-conductor; seem =
>counter-productive. What am I missing here?
>Wayne
Dow-Corning DC-4 and similar silicone greases are
excellent prophylactic treatments for exclusion of
moisture and other contaminants into connectors.
Waaaayyyy back when, we commonly filled the mating
spaces of coax connectors up on towers with DC-4 before
putting the connector together. Use sparingly. You don't
want it to ooze out and get the exterior all messy. The
stuff is VERY hard to get off and in the case of coax
connections, made it difficult to wrap with tape for
exterior water-barrier.
A coating the top insulator and terminal of a spark
plug before installing the spark plug wire would be
an assist for keeping moisture out of a potentially
vulnerable joint in the system. Same thing would be
good for coil end of wire.
Silicone greases migrate with time. Put a pea-sized
dab on a flat surface and come back a few months later.
You'll find a large silicone-grease wetted area around the
dab that continues to grow with time.
It's a neat stuff but I would use it reservedly with
respect to amount and location and only in areas where
a connection is likely to be exposed to extra-ordinarily
corrosive influences.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Canopy Latched Sensor |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe Dubner <jdubner@yahoo.com>
> I'm not familiar with any specific reflective-type optical sensors
> but I'm guessing that would be the way to go.
Following up on my original post here ...
After a couple of weeks of scratching my head, I found the IR HOA0149
Reflective Sensor ($3.36 ea. at DigiKey, see
http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Honeywell%20Sensing%20%26%20Control/Web%20Data/HOA0149.pdf).
I breadboarded a circuit and found that it worked pretty well as long as:
1) The LED was heavily biased (30 or 40 ma. but not 10 or 20).
2) The reflective object was a flat surface (unlike the domed head of
the screw I wanted to use). Even the Phillips slots in the head
diffused the reflective light considerably and reduced the sensitivity.
3) The reflective object was fairly close to the optimum position as
specified in the data sheet. There wasn't a lot of in/out, left/right,
or up/down tolerance on positioning the latch handle relative to the
Reflective Sensor.
In order to turn ON a warning light when the latch handle was out of
position (not latched) an inverter was required so I added a resistor
and transistor. The Reflective Sensor has a poor current transfer ratio
and there is less than one milliampere available to bias the transistor,
sometimes much less depending on position. In order to reliably control
the #382 light bulb in my Canopy Unlatched indicator I decided I needed
a Darlington-connected configuration.
This is where I pulled the plug. I decided it was too complicated and
"touchy" for my real-world application and I'd rather be flying.
Soooooo, I went back to a Cherry microswitch <groan>. Maybe I'll look
at this again in my *next* airplane when I have more freedom in the
mechanical design.
--
Joe
Joe Dubner
Long-EZ 821RP
Lewiston, ID
On 27-Apr-06 09:21 Joe Dubner wrote:
> I'm looking for a better way to implement the canopy unlatched warning
> system on a Long-EZ. The standard method is to use a small microswitch
> that responds to "canopy latched". (This is not the same as "canopy
> closed", which would be easy enough to implement but I want a "latched"
> indication.)
>
> Here's an illustration of the standard system:
> http://users.lewiston.com/hth/jd/CanopyLockMicroswitch.jpg
>
> When the canopy locking handle is pushed forward (left in the image) far
> enough to latch the canopy locking mechanism, the head of the screw on
> the handle (at the right in the image) fits in the hole on the latch and
> actives the microswitch through its (specially bent) lever.
>
> I'm not happy with the microswitch as it doesn't hold up well under use
> and wonder if any Aeroelectric Connection readers can come up with a
> better idea. I've searched for optical interrupters but can't find one
> with a gap large enough for the head of the relatively large #10 screw.
> I'm not familiar with any specific reflective-type optical sensors but
> I'm guessing that would be the way to go.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Joe
> Long-EZ 821RP
> Lewiston, ID
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Canopy Latched Sensor |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
On May 14, 2006, at 3:00 PM, Joe Dubner wrote:
>
> This is where I pulled the plug. I decided it was too complicated and
> "touchy" for my real-world application and I'd rather be flying.
> Soooooo, I went back to a Cherry microswitch <groan>. Maybe I'll look
> at this again in my *next* airplane when I have more freedom in the
> mechanical design.
Sometimes a checklist item is the best solution.
Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way
brian-yak AT lloyd DOT com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
Antoine de Saint-Exupry
Message 7
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Subject: | Glass connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alan K. Adamson" <aadamson@highrf.com>
http://www.l-com.com/home.aspx
Various items like DIN connectors for keyboards (both front and rear panel
mount), USB connectors, extensions, etc.
Plus lots of others.
Add to your bookmarks,
Alan
Message 8
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Subject: | RPM sensor wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <vicster@netvigator.com>
Hello,
I am installing an RPM sensor that screws into one of the vent ports on my Bendix
Magneto unit. Does the RPM sensor wires have to be shielded all the way to
the engine analyzer? If so, I will be installing a 17 pin circular connector at
the firewall that will connect all the wires for the various engine sensors
(ie. oil temp, oil press, fuel flow..) including the RPM sensor. Do you lose the
shielding effect if you run the shielded RPM wires through a circular connector?
Thank you
Vic
Message 9
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Subject: | RPM sensor wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
You have to carry the shield through the connector on it's own pin.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
vicster@netvigator.com
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 7:59 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RPM sensor wires
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <vicster@netvigator.com>
Hello,
I am installing an RPM sensor that screws into one of the vent ports on my
Bendix Magneto unit. Does the RPM sensor wires have to be shielded all the
way to the engine analyzer? If so, I will be installing a 17 pin circular
connector at the firewall that will connect all the wires for the various
engine sensors (ie. oil temp, oil press, fuel flow..) including the RPM
sensor. Do you lose the shielding effect if you run the shielded RPM wires
through a circular connector?
Thank you
Vic
Message 10
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Subject: | Ebay #9723825338 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
I just ordered one of these from Gilchrist. Since all of their summer help
has left college already, they're having a hard time keeping up with
returning calls. It took them 3-4 days to get back with me, even after I
left them emails and voicemails. So you'll have to be patient, but Marian
(sp?) did call me and we finished up. This was just on Friday so it'll be a
few days before it gets delivered from MT to AL. I did, however, get all of
my payment and package shipped notices by COB Friday, complete with tracking
numbers.
Rob Wright
RV-10 #392
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2006 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ebay #9723825338
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 12:53 PM 5/13/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net>
>
>Bob ...
>Is this Gilchrist coax stripper suitable for RG-400? It has three blades
>but does not list RG-400. Gilchrist will not respond to questions.
>Thanks ...
>Jerry Grimmonpre'
Yes, that's the one I give away at the seminars. It's
ADJUSTABLE. It will probably work for RG-400 as received
but you can check the results of the cuts carefully and
adjust as needed for optimization.
Bob . . .
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