Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:53 AM - Re: Firewall penetration (Gilles Thesee)
2. 08:18 AM - Re: 16AWG fusible link (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 09:44 AM - Re: Firewall penetration (Brinker)
4. 10:05 AM - Second battery in a TC aircraft (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 10:14 AM - Hall effect replacement for shunts . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 04:46 PM - Jabiru 3300 Engine Grounds (Joe Dubner)
7. 04:54 PM - List Enclosure Support (Matt Dralle)
8. 09:23 PM - Re: Jabiru 3300 Engine Grounds (Noel Loveys)
Message 1
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Firewall penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
> I've used 3M Fire Barrier 2000 with success.
>
> Concerning firewall penetration :
> http://contrails.free.fr/engine_cpf.php
>
Hi all,
Just updated the "Firewall" page with some compound examples and pictures :
http://contrails.free.fr/engine_cpf.php
Only in French for some time, I'm afraid ;-(
Regards,
Gilles Thesee
Grenoble, France
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: 16AWG fusible link |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 07:11 AM 6/2/2006 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: david2005 <david2005@abrahamson.net>
>
>I am building an RV7 electrical system according to the Z-12
>architecture and want to make the fusible link from the aux
>alternator to the starter contactor depicted in the diagram. Bob's
>online article about fabricating a fusible link and the B&C kit say
>that it only applies to 22 and 24AWG fusible links, whereas the Z-12
>diagrams lists a 16AWG fusible link. Can't find a resource that
>explains how to do this. Help?
>Thanks all
The "resources" are limited to the few postings I've
made on the topic. I've often suggested that while fusible
links are attractive for their simplicity and robustness
leading to a very low cost of ownership. However, they are NOT
a general replacement for fuses/breakers and should
not be considered for any applications beyond those suggested
in the Z-figures without some discussion.
Fusible links have fusing constants on a par with ANL style
current limiters. I.e. they'll carry many times their
"normal" rated current for many seconds and in this case,
the link WILL emit smoke and WILL require some over-sleeve
capable of preventing it's high energy operation from
damaging adjacent wires.
Therefore, fusible links in the z-figures are noteworthy
for their scarcity. Every place they've been shown has
been considered for the failure mode effects that might
cause the link to open along with probability that they'll
EVER be required to operate. The note on the fusible link kit
was not intended to limit their fabrication to the
smaller sizes. The kit is supplied with red-PIDG splices
which won't accept the 12AWG/16AWG combination cited in
figure Z-16 and elsewhere. I think the fiberglas/silicone
sleeving will work over the 16AWG link but you'll need a
yellow-PIDG (10-12AWG) splice. The sleeving will have to
go inside the insulation grip on the splice as opposed to
over the outside. I think the sleeving will stretch to
cover the outside of a blue-PIDG at the other end.
I'll use them wherever it seems to make sense but
suggest caution for expanding their use beyond those
applications cited in the drawings.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Firewall penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brinker" <brinker@cox-internet.com>
Could not get Google translator to work on your website, it could
not find it (: Although Babelfish came through for me the translation leaves
somewhat to be desired. Nice site though and informative. Thanks for the
info.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gilles Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2006 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Firewall penetration
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gilles Thesee
> <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
>
>> if I am understanding your pic's correctly it
>> looks as though you are using industrial type electrical connectors for
>> the
>> penetration and just sealing with high temp 3m and a fire sleeve. Which I
>> don't see why it would not work. Even if the connectors are just
>> galvanized
>> steel and not stainless.
>>
> Randy,
>
> My web page is divided into 4 parts :
>
> - Roles of the firewall
> - What's NOT to be done (IMHO) : rubber grommet, putty patch...
> - What I did : home made STAINLESS steel penetrations
> - What others do : brass fittings, Bob's method, grommet shields, EPM.AV
> Corp' fittings
>
> You may really wish to use Google translator, after all ;-))
>
> Regards,
> Gilles Thesee
> Grenoble, France
> http://contrails.free.fr
>
>
>
Message 4
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Second battery in a TC aircraft |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 10:36 AM 6/1/2006 -1000, you wrote:
>Bob,
>
>Please note the two attached drawings (and also please excuse my style).
>
>I have a Republic Seabee, and I want a dual battery system with the
second battery being always hot, feeding the Hot Battery Bus through a
circuit breaker. The purpose of this battery is to provide power for
things like bilge pumps, anchor light, clocks, and occasionally a GPS
(which has an anchor dragging alarm) without creating the possibility of
discharging the main starting battery.
>
>I have a single alternator (B&S) that I would like to use to charge both
batteries through a battery charging isolator.
>
>I might also add a battery parallel switch to allow the hot battery to
serve as a backup battery, but since it is the one that is most likely to
run down, I may eliminate that concept, at least until I gain some experience.
>
>My question for you is: Do you see any regulatory, operational, or
electrical problems with this arrangement? I think it should work well,
though I don't know if the FAA has any opinions on battery isolator diodes.
>
>Both batteries are Odyssey PC 1200s of about 40 AH rating.
Don't make this any more complicated than it needs to be. You'll have
to get a 337 approval for the installation of the second battery. FAA
will have no heartburn about the second battery but you'll want your
337 to touch on structural, and crash safety issues.
I don't recommend diodes. Just add a second battery to the system
with it's own battery contactor. You can use either or both batteries
for cranking. The battery bus for the second battery can run gizmos
cited in your note as long as each gizmo is under 5A. This is the
largest always-hot wire the FAA blesses under their rule-of-thumb
for max size of protected wire for crash safety. If you can get
a fuse-block blessed . . . so much the better. Fuses are MUCH faster
and therefore safer than breakers.
Battery bus for second battery needs to be mounted right at the
battery . . . so fuse-blocks work out well.
Here's a Shop Note on dual battery installation in all metal
airplanes.
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Battery_Grounds/Battery_Grounds.html
Second battery is wired per Z-30 of
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev11/AppZ_R11G.pdf
I've helped a half dozen or so folks install this same system in
things like C-206 on floats. We put the second battery right on
the aircraft CG inside one of the floats. Kept the battery from
using up fuselage volume and simplified crash safety issues.
I wish I could point you to a completed 337 for guidance
but all the installations I worked were for missionaries
and other bush operations in S. America. One pretty much
accomplishes what's necessary to their airplane without
government impediments.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 5
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Hall effect replacement for shunts . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Comments/Questions: Bob,
When you were at the Chesapeake VA seminar you mentioned that a Hall effect
sensor could be used with your load meter in stead of the shunt. What hall
effect sensor do you recommend?
You might also offer them on you web site along with the loadmeter as you
do with the shunts.
Mark,
There's a little more to it than simply hooking the sensor assembly
to the instrument . . . there's some calibration to be done.
One sensor of choice would be the Honeywell CSNX25 described
in the data package at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Misc/Honeywell/CSXN_Series_Current_Transducers.pdf
It needs a power supply and an etched circuit board along with
some calibration circuitry to mate it to the instrument I have.
Your suggestion is interesting. I have some plans for incorporating
the instrument into another OBAM aircraft product and it would be
an interesting added feature to include a current display with
a hall-effect sensor.
I'm meeting with some partners next Monday and will add this idea
to the list of projects to be considered. Thanks!
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 6
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Jabiru 3300 Engine Grounds |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe Dubner <jdubner@yahoo.com>
I'm helping a friend by wiring his Zenith Zenair 601 with a Jabiru 3300
engine using a variation of Bob's Z-20 architecture. The documentation,
at least what I've seen of it, is very sketchy on the electrical systems
and I'm unable to find any reference to grounding the engine.
Where have other builders connected the heavy ground braid (that carries
the return current for the starter)? I know where to connect it on a
Lycoming but this Jabiru is *very* different :-)
And where have others connected the braids of the magnetos' P-leads?
Again, I know where to connect them on Slick magnetos but what did other
builders use for convenient, nearby ground studs?
Thanks,
Joe
Joe Dubner
Long-EZ 821RP
Lewiston, ID
http://users.lewiston.com/hth/jd/
Message 7
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | List Enclosure Support |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
Over the years, I have resisted the urge to enable enclosure support on the Matronics
Lists for a number of reasons relating to performance, capacity, capability,
and security. However, its now 2006 and most everyone using email these
days is on an email client that, at some level, supports the viewing and handling
of enclosures. I get a fair amount of email each month from people on the
various Lists asking why their posts of this or that picture didn't go through.
Back quite a while ago by popular request, I enabled enclosure support for a few
Lists such as the RV10-List, Kolb-List, and the Tailwind-List. Contrary to
my fears, there really hasn't been any significant issues on these Lists relating
to the advent of enclosure support and for the most part, members have policed
themselves well with respect to the size of things they have posted.
Having enclosures enabled on some Lists and not others has given me a fair amount
of headaches with respect to filtering messages and content since the formats
are often quite different between a typical MIME encoded message and a generic
plain-text message. The spammers are getting more cleaver all the time and
are constantly trying to thwart my best efforts at keeping them from posting
to the Lists.
So, for these reasons, I've have decided to go ahead and enable limited enclosure
posting on all of the email Lists at Matronics. This will not only increase
the utility of the Lists, but will afford me a better opportunity to filter
out the chaff.
Here are some of the features and limits of enclosures on the Matronics Lists:
1) Enclosures will only be posted to the Real Time version of the
Lists.
2) Enclosures will NOT be included in the Daily Digest version of
the Lists.
3) Enclosures WILL BE forwarded on to the BBS Forum Web site.
4) Enclosures will NOT be appended to the Archives.
5) Enclosures will NOT be available in the List Browse feature.
6) Only the following file types and extensions will be allowed:
jpg, bmp, gif, txt, xls, pdf, and doc
All other enclosures types will be rejected and email returned to
sender. The enclosure types listed above are relatively safe from
a virus standpoint and don't pose a particularly large security risk.
7) !! All incoming enclosures will be scanned for viruses prior to posting
to the List. This is done in real time and will not slow down
the process of posting the message !!
Here are some rules for posting enclosures. Failure to abide by these rules could
result in the removal of a subscriber's email address from the Lists.
1) Pay attention to what you are posting!! Make sure that the files
you are enclosing aren't HUGE (greater that 1MB). Remember that there
are still people checking they're email via dial up modem. If you post
30MB worth of pictures, you are placing an unnecessary burden on these
folks and the rest of us, for that matter.
2) SCALE YOUR PICTURES DOWN!!! I don't want to see huge 3000 x 2000
pictures getting posted that are 3 or 4MB each. This is just
unacceptable. Use a program such as Photoshop to scale the picture
down to something on the order of 800 x 600 and try to keep the
file size to less-than 200KB, preferably much less.
Microsoft has a really awesome utility available for free that allows
you to Right-Click on a picture in Explorer and automatically
scale it down and resave it. This is a great utility - get it, use it!
http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx
Look for the link "Image Resizer"
3) !! This would seem to go without saying, but I'll say it anyway. Do not
post anything that would be considered offensive by your grandmother.
And you know what I'm saying; I don't want to see anything even
questionable. !!
4) REMEMBER THIS: If you post a 1MB enclosure to a List with 1000 members
subscribed, your 1MB enclosure must be resent 1000 times amounting
to 1MB X 1000 = 1 Gigabyte of network traffic!! BE CAREFUL and BE COURTEOUS!
I hope everyone will enjoy the added functionality of enclosures. Please police
yourself and use good judgement when posting messages with enclosures using
the guidelines I've outlined above.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 8
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Jabiru 3300 Engine Grounds |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
The braid ensures a good ground across the engine mount. I feel you are
right that it is important to have the good ground for the best operation of
the starter motor and lets not forget the ground for the charging system.
The best place to run the braid is from any convenient stud on the engine
block (one of the popular places seems to be the engine half studs) to the
frame of the plane. Make sure the areas around where the braids connect to
the block and the frame are electrically clean.
I've seen many that use one of the engine mount bolts for the frame side of
the ground. I've also seen at least one installation where there was two
braids... One on each side of the engine... Probably a bit of overkill.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Joe Dubner
> Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 9:05 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Jabiru 3300 Engine Grounds
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe Dubner
> <jdubner@yahoo.com>
>
> I'm helping a friend by wiring his Zenith Zenair 601 with a
> Jabiru 3300
> engine using a variation of Bob's Z-20 architecture. The
> documentation,
> at least what I've seen of it, is very sketchy on the
> electrical systems
> and I'm unable to find any reference to grounding the engine.
>
> Where have other builders connected the heavy ground braid
> (that carries
> the return current for the starter)? I know where to connect it on a
> Lycoming but this Jabiru is *very* different :-)
>
> And where have others connected the braids of the magnetos' P-leads?
> Again, I know where to connect them on Slick magnetos but
> what did other
> builders use for convenient, nearby ground studs?
>
> Thanks,
> Joe
>
> Joe Dubner
> Long-EZ 821RP
> Lewiston, ID
> http://users.lewiston.com/hth/jd/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|