Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:30 AM - Re: 16AWG fusible link (better idea?) ()
2. 04:56 AM - Re: insulation - OT (LarryRobertHelming)
3. 10:27 AM - Re: 16AWG fusible link (better idea?) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 12:46 PM - (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 04:23 PM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 06/03/06 (Lee Logan)
6. 06:29 PM - Re: (Noel Loveys)
7. 07:36 PM - Re: Chapter 8 Update (Eric M. Jones)
8. 07:40 PM - Re: Air Speed Switch (DonVS)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: 16AWG fusible link (better idea?) |
WHY a fusible link at ALL???
Why not an in-line fuse. Bussman has several in-line fuse holders
for larger *MAX* fuses up to 70 amps. The *MAX* are just larger ATC
blade types. The standard ATC fuses are only good to about 30A.
In-line fuse holders are sealed an very cool
Just a thought?
http://www.bussmann.com/shared/library/catalogs/Buss_Auto-Fuse_Cat.pdf
(big file / look @ pdf page# 5, 8 & 14 / subtract 2 for printed pg # )
>posted by: david2005 <david2005@abrahamson.net>
>
>I am building an RV7 electrical system according to the Z-12
>architecture and want to make the fusible link from the aux
>alternator to the starter contactor depicted in the diagram. Bob's
>online article about fabricating a fusible link and the B&C kit say
>that it only applies to 22 and 24AWG fusible links, whereas the Z-12
>diagrams lists a 16AWG fusible link. Can't find a resource that
>explains how to do this. Help?
>Thanks all
__________________________________________________
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: insulation - OT |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Our hangar builder put this type stuff in the roof of our new building. Try
calling Hobgood Buildings in Evansville/Daylight, Indiana if you want more
info. I'd suggest any pole barn type building contractor in your area would
know what to use. You could probably buy it from them too. Larry
Subject: AeroElectric-List: insulation - OT
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com
>
> Sorry for the off-topic question:
> Can anyone point me to a source of 1-2" fiberglass insulation with Al foil
> on both sides to be used for the roof and sides of the fuselage?
> Any suggestions for better insuation (sound and thermal)?
> Thanks
> Rumen
>
> do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 16AWG fusible link (better idea?) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 01:20 AM 6/4/2006 -0700, you wrote:
>WHY a fusible link at ALL???
>
>Why not an in-line fuse. Bussman has several in-line fuse holders
>for larger *MAX* fuses up to 70 amps. The *MAX* are just larger ATC
>blade types. The standard ATC fuses are only good to about 30A.
>
>In-line fuse holders are sealed an very cool
>
>Just a thought?
Fusible links are attractive for their robustness. No
vulnerable connections. Fabricated from wire, splices
and terminals for longevity and durability approaching that
of wire. They have fusing constants on a par with ANL
current limiters
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Fuses_and_Current_Limiters/Bussman/ANL.pdf
and much slower than the ANN series limiters.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Fuses_and_Current_Limiters/Bussman/ANN.pdf
Fusing constants for the MAX series fuses can be
seen here . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Fuses_and_Current_Limiters/Bussman/MAX.pdf
Inline fuse holders for the plastic plug-in fuses
can be seen at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Fuses_and_Current_Limiters/Bussman/IN-Line_Fuse_Holders.jpg
The fusible link was suggested for uses in areas where
the robustness can be exploited but limited to situations
where probability of needing to operate as a protective
device was exceedingly low.
I've done anecdotal surveys during my presentations to
ask how many individuals present have had the fusible link
in an automobile open up. In over ten years of asking
the question, I think I've had two positive responses.
The MAX or ATC series fuses (or even breakers) can always
be considered to replace any fusible link shown in the
z-figures . . .
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 4
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>Comments/Questions: Hi Bob
>
>Sorry to have to resort to taking your time,but I have not been able to
>find any directions on making a balun for a nav antenna installation for
>my RV8. I was told that it was in AC43-13, but I haven't been able to find
>it anywhere. Can you point me in the right direction?
No, AC43-13 wouldn't cover such a device. Here are a couple
of links you can look over:
http://n-lemma.com/calcs/dipole/balun.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dipole_antenna
We used to wire our VOR cat-whiskers on the
single engined Cessnas with a balun back in the
60' but gave it up after a series of experiments
showed no perceivable difference between antennas
with baluns and antennas that simply attached
the center conductor to one leg of the dipole
and coax braid to the other leg.
Some folks believe in slipping ferrite toroidal
cores over the coax like this figure from the
AeroElectric Connection:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Antenna/Dipole_Antenna.pdf
However, subsequent to publishing that figure I've
done some testing in the lab and found that the
ferrite cores offer no observable improvement in
VOR receiver or GS receiver performance by their
use.
Therefore, it's my recommendation that you forgo
the use of either balun or ferrite cores and simply
attach the legs of your dipole to the center conductor
and shield of the coax.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 06/03/06 |
Your input on the site is often very informative, Gilles. Thanks very
much...
"Just updated the "Firewall" page with some compound examples and pictures :
http://contrails.free.fr/engine_cpf.php Only in French for some time, I'm
afraid ;-(
Regards,
Gilles Thesee
Grenoble, France
http://contrails.free.fr"
Message 6
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
The Amateur radio operators handbook has several of them. I think it also
has equations to help design your own.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III
> Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 5:10 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List:
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls,
> III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
>
> >Comments/Questions: Hi Bob
> >
> >Sorry to have to resort to taking your time,but I have not
> been able to
> >find any directions on making a balun for a nav antenna
> installation for
> >my RV8. I was told that it was in AC43-13, but I haven't
> been able to find
> >it anywhere. Can you point me in the right direction?
>
> No, AC43-13 wouldn't cover such a device. Here are a couple
> of links you can look over:
>
> http://n-lemma.com/calcs/dipole/balun.htm
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dipole_antenna
>
> We used to wire our VOR cat-whiskers on the
> single engined Cessnas with a balun back in the
> 60' but gave it up after a series of experiments
> showed no perceivable difference between antennas
> with baluns and antennas that simply attached
> the center conductor to one leg of the dipole
> and coax braid to the other leg.
>
> Some folks believe in slipping ferrite toroidal
> cores over the coax like this figure from the
> AeroElectric Connection:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Antenna/Dipole_Antenna.pdf
>
> However, subsequent to publishing that figure I've
> done some testing in the lab and found that the
> ferrite cores offer no observable improvement in
> VOR receiver or GS receiver performance by their
> use.
>
> Therefore, it's my recommendation that you forgo
> the use of either balun or ferrite cores and simply
> attach the legs of your dipole to the center conductor
> and shield of the coax.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Chapter 8 Update |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Comments on Chapter 8: Wire Selection and Installation.
General comments on materials.
The periodic table does not hide any magic conductors. Copper is the second best
by volume, it is 94% as good as the bestSilver. Surprisingly, gold is not particularly
good. Its magic lies elsewhere.
I have to disagree with several statements. I think these were not critically examined
in the writing:
Weight will not be greatly improved upon; the copper conductor is already the major
proportion of the weight and there is simply no practical way to do with
less copper with current technology---Oh? How about higher voltages, single wire
busses, fiberoptics, Copper-Clad Aluminum, etc. I am sure you meant something
slightly different here.
There is no material more economical than copper for any given wiring task. Simply
not so. I am sure you do not quite mean it Bob. Throw a couple more modifiers
in there please.
Bob, you just plain ignore Copper Clad Aluminum, so I suggest taking a look at
the link:
http://www.periheliondesign.com/fatwires_files/Copper%20cables.pdf (I will still send free samples to interested Aeroelectric list fans) Boeing and Airbus buy kilotons of the stuff. Its advantages may or may not be attractive to you, but ignoring it is not serving your readers.
Flexibility: The discussion of flexibility is not clear on a couple points and
draws some suspect conclusions. Certainly, flexibility in an electric drill is
handy, but this does not mean that the general use of finely-stranded wire is
generally advantageous in DC circuits.
Simply putthere is scant evidence that using stranded wire instead of solid gains
you much except in some special cases---e.g.
1) Flexibility, as in an electric drill cord or a welding cable.
2) Attachment to resonant or vibrating structures. Thats why the ground strap to
an engine is braided. NOT because fine stranding is more reliable.
3) Convenience in spooling, handling, and installation. A solid wire always has
bias, but it mostlydisappears in stranding.
Note also that stranded wire has a huge surface area relative to solid. For the
same cross-section, lets say a one square inch solid conductor would have a surface
area of four square inches per inch, while if it were separated into 1/12
X 144 strands would have a surface area of 48 square inches per inch. This
is why stranded wire is the cats meow for higher frequencies that depend on skin
effect for transmission. Complicated subject.
Solid wire is easier to use in DC circuitsit terminates better, is smaller and
lighter for equivalent AWG size.
To simplifyI think your thinking on stranded versus solid need rethinking a bit.
Bob saysCopper is a very active metal. No it isnt. Copper, like many other useful
metals forms a protective coating on its exposed surface. You can drop a copper
penny in the dirt and dig it up in a thousand years and still read the date
on it. Roman soldiers did the first half of this experiment for us. Stainless
steel and copper are remarkably similar in corrosion resistance except that
stainless steel forms a transparent coating that is NON-conductive, and looks
great. Copper forms a conductive coating but looks like hell. At least if I remember
my chemistry correctly.
Your description of voltage drop etc., would be improved by some nice drawings.
Note: Rivnuts were developed by B. F. Goodrich.
More later. Keep up the good work.
No one traveling on a business trip would be missed if he failed to arrive.
- Thorstein Veblen
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38580#38580
Message 8
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| Subject: | Air Speed Switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
Bob,
Is a RPM switch something I could find "on the shelf"? or would it be a
custom device. Do you have any plans? I like the idea of one with a timer
built in. I will be running P-mags so I have a tach output. Please let me
know what is available or if you feel like designing something. Thanks in
advance. Don VS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 8:29 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Air Speed Switch
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 07:37 PM 4/8/2006 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
>
>Bob,
>The switch is recomended by Avidyne for use with their TCAS systems. It is
>to take the device out of ground mode and into airborne mode. I used to
fly
>a piper twin that had the same type of switch to start the "air hobbs"
>meter. BTW Avidyne does not have a source, that is why I am hoping that
you
>had one. Thanks. Don
Hmmmm . . . Frank knows of some devices with that sensitivity.
As one might expect, it's pretty big. How about an RPM switch
set at something like 1500 rpm. You could even put a timer
in the loop so that the air mode happens after say 30 seconds
above 1500. This would let you do mag-chex, etc without triggering
the air mode. Signal would come from the tach output on an ignition
or p-lead on mag.
Have you called Avidyne?
Bob . . .
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