Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:09 AM - Re: 4 cycle - cycle (Brian Lloyd)
2. 04:50 AM - Re: Re: Insrument Lighting (Harley)
3. 05:45 AM - Re: alternator failure modes (George Braly)
4. 06:14 AM - Re: Re: Insrument Lighting (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
5. 06:41 AM - Re: Re: Insrument Lighting (Harley)
6. 09:26 AM - Re: Re: Insrument Lighting (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
7. 07:38 PM - Note #10 on Z-12 (Ben Schneider)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: 4 cycle - cycle |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
On Jul 7, 2006, at 11:39 PM, FLYaDIVE@aol.com wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 7/7/06 3:50:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> brian-yak@lloyd.com writes:
>
>>> Hey Guys:
>>>
>>> I've been thinking on this too much and wish for some outside input.
>>>
>>> On a 4 cycle engine does the firing of one spark plug happen every
>>> other
>>> revolution?
>>
>> Yes.
>>
>>> That is from one Ignition on spark plug #1 to the next igination on
>>> spark plug #1 the crank goes around two (2) times?
>>
>> Yes.
>>
>>>
>>> Does this sound correct?
>>
>> Yes.
>>
>>>
>>> Barry
>>> "Chop'd Liver"
> ===========================
> Thank you Brian for the conformation.
Welcome. ;-)
Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way
brian-yak AT lloyd DOT com Folsom, CA 95630
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
Antoine de Saint-Exupry
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: RE: Insrument Lighting |
Morning, Peter...
>>www.a-and-t-labs.com/ <http://www.a-and-t-labs.com/><<
Great website! Not only do they sell the kits, or just the PC board (the
parts list states that they are all available at Digi-Key), but they
have the complete circuit description, block diagrams, schematic
diagrams and all the artwork for a PC board on the site for those who
want to home brew it!
Note that the dimmer also has a photocell option to turn on the lights
when the cockpit gets too dark. Looks like they thought of
everything...good link, thanks, Peter.
Harley Dixon
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Peter Laurence wrote:
>
> Jerry,
>
>
>
> If you have a combination of incandescent and LEDs you can control the
> brightness with a unit made by A and T labs. You can daisy-chain the
> modules and control the overall brightness with a master. Obviously it
> will also level out different intensities of incandescenst. You can
> find them at http://www.a-and-t-labs.com/
>
>
>
>
>
> Peter
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Jerry & Ledy Esquenazi
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 05, 2006 10:52 PM
> *To:* AeroElectric-List@matronics.com
> *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: RE: Insrument Lighting
>
>
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> Thanks to Eric, Ken , and Charlie for your suggestions. However,
> I don't have any idea on how to build a PWM or variable duty cycle
> circuit. Do you guys have any schematics or more info? Thanks
> Charlie for including the link.
>
> I don't plan on disconnecting the instrument or covering it up. I
> have the g-meter lit for aesthetics and symmetry. I paid extra to
> have it lit, so I plan on using it.
>
> I called the manufacturer of the g-meter. The reason the
> instrument is so bright is that it actually has three bulbs drawing a
> total of 0.56. The company verified my amp draw correct for a 12 v
> unit. So at least I know I have the right bulbs. I still need to dim
> it down a bit to make the brightness similar to the rest of the
> instruments. Bob K., do you have any ideas?
>
>
>
> Thank you,
>
> Jerry
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | alternator failure modes |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "George Braly" <gwbraly@gami.com>
I have had an alternator turn into a hunk of twisted junk due to a
failed bearing.
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
FLYaDIVE@aol.com
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 2:04 PM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 7/5/06 7:32:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
brian-yak@lloyd.com writes:
> I have had several people write to me to tell me that they have never
> seen an alternator turn into a grenade. Neither have I. I was just
> listing that is a *possible* scenario, as in, "I suppose this might
> happen." I think it unlikely but I do think that things like broken
> brackets, having the alternator seize, and who knows what happens if
> both happen at once.
===========================
Brian:
When you say grenade, are you saying totally blown apart with the case
breaking into pieces?
I have done two alternators jobs that have had what I would call
catastrophic
failures.
The first had the through bolts come out and the alternator bells
separated.
This caused the rotor to violently wobble and destroy the stator. Basic
cause - Plane owner went to his buddy to have an annual done. Cost of
Annual: One
bottle of Jonnie Walker Black. I do not know at what point the bottle
was
consumed.
Second was a failure of the alternator's end bell (sheave end) where the
bearing is pressed in. The voltage output failed and the rotor just
started to
wobble off center. Basic cause - The alternator was installed off
center. The
sheave was not aligned with the gear tooth ring.
I would not cal lit a grenade, but close.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: RE: Insrument Lighting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 7/8/06 7:52:41 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
harley@AgelessWings.com writes:
> Note that the dimmer also has a photocell option to turn on the lights
> when the cockpit gets too dark. Looks like they thought of
> everything...good link, thanks, Peter.
>
> Harley Dixon
>
======================
Hey Guys ...
Are you really willing to spend $75 for a simple dimmer? As I stated before,
as much as I dislike Radio Shack you can build this dimmer for $15 to $20
with all parts and instructions available from the $hit Shack.
LQQK for the LM-317
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: RE: Insrument Lighting |
FLYaDIVE@aol.com wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 7/8/06 7:52:41 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> harley@AgelessWings.com writes:
>
>
>> Note that the dimmer also has a photocell option to turn on the lights
>> when the cockpit gets too dark. Looks like they thought of
>> everything...good link, thanks, Peter.
>>
>> Harley Dixon
>>
>>
> ======================
> Hey Guys ...
>
> Are you really willing to spend $75 for a simple dimmer? As I stated before,
> as much as I dislike Radio Shack you can build this dimmer for $15 to $20
> with all parts and instructions available from the $hit Shack.
>
> LQQK for the LM-317
>
> Barry
> "Chop'd Liver"
>
Morning, Barry (or, are we supposed to call you Chop'd Liver? <G>)...
>>spend $75 for a simple dimmer?<<
That's why I supported Peter's choice of that link...the web site
doesn't limit one to purchasing their unit. It has a complete
schematic, block diagram, parts list, etc..., and mentions that all the
parts can be purchased from Digi-key...but, of course, one can buy them
wherever you'd like, Radio Shack not excluded. Mouser being my first choice.
The PDF for the description and schematic for it is here:
www.a-and-t-labs.com/K11_Dimmer/Dimmer_with_figs.pdf
Includes instructions for construction on a perf board, or a pc board
which you can make yourself from their artwork or buy from them and add
the parts, installation instructions, etc.
Their feature list in the above document says:
Multiple outputs with tracking capability
Day time full brightness over-ride capability
Reliability
Current limiting/short circuit protection
Thermal protection
Low drop-out voltage (ability to adjust the dimmer bus up as close to
the battery
voltage as possible)
Photocell light sensor automatic control capability
Low cost
A little more than the Radio shack dimmer.
It's beginning to sound like I'm affiliated with A&T Labs in some
way...I assure you, I am not. I just appreciate a company that offers
the option to build or buy...and makes nothing off of it if you build.
After all, that's why I have a Long EZ <G>.
Harley
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: RE: Insrument Lighting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 7/8/06 9:44:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
harley@AgelessWings.com writes:
> Morning, Barry (or, are we supposed to call you Chop'd Liver? <G>)...
>
Harley:
You can call me Barry
You can call me Chop'd Liver
You can call me Gimp
But don't call me Johnson!
Chop'd Liver and Gimp are my Callsigns. Flight callsign is NUGGET
If I'm working ATC then it is NUGGET 01
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
Message 7
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Subject: | Note #10 on Z-12 |
Bob,
I was putting together my contactors, current limiters, and shunts via Z-12.
My question comes in with the current limiter near the starter contactor.
I m using an auto conversion, and using an automotive starter with a solenoid
on the starter. Mounting the CL near the starter does not really work out for
me. The note in the aeroelectric bible says "Consider installing the breaker
(or fuse) as close as possible to the starter contactor" Can you elaborate?
Is it an alternator noise issue? Is it going to cause me grief in the future?
The CL will be on the firewall, and the starter and soleoid will be right
up near the prop about 24 inches away. Is that going to cause me issues, other
that running big wire up there?
Just wanting to fully understand.
Ben Schneider
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