AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Sun 07/16/06


Total Messages Posted: 33



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 01:21 AM - Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
     2. 05:09 AM - Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
     3. 05:09 AM - Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak (Ken)
     4. 05:12 AM - Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
     5. 06:56 AM - Landing lights & relays (tomcostanza@comcast.net)
     6. 06:56 AM - Hall effect amp meter telling the truth? (Duane Wilson)
     7. 07:19 AM - VM1000 light system failure (Ralph E. Capen)
     8. 08:22 AM - Figure Z-7 (Michael Burson)
     9. 09:00 AM - Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio (Brian Lloyd)
    10. 09:45 AM - Re: Landing lights & relays (Doug Windhorn)
    11. 11:23 AM - Re: Landing lights & relays (Ken)
    12. 12:27 PM - Re: Hall effect amp meter telling the truth? (Ken)
    13. 12:42 PM - Re: VM1000 light system failure (Harry Manvel)
    14. 12:48 PM - Re: Hall effect amp meter telling the truth? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
    15. 02:16 PM - Re: Grounding lugs (John McMahon)
    16. 02:16 PM - Re: Grounding lugs (John McMahon)
    17. 02:28 PM - Re: Grounding lugs (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
    18. 02:52 PM - Re: Grounding lugs (Brian Lloyd)
    19. 03:11 PM - Re: VM1000 light system failure (Ralph E. Capen)
    20. 03:43 PM - Re: Landing lights & relays (tomcostanza@comcast.net)
    21. 03:45 PM - BatteryLink ACR (Alex Balic)
    22. 03:49 PM - Re: Landing lights & relays (tomcostanza@comcast.net)
    23. 04:56 PM - Re: BatteryLink ACR (Brian Lloyd)
    24. 06:30 PM - Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
    25. 07:14 PM - Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
    26. 07:32 PM - braided bonding straps (Robert G. Wright)
    27. 07:59 PM - Re: microphone noise (Ken)
    28. 08:23 PM - Re: microphone noise (Charlie England)
    29. 08:50 PM - Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio (europa flugzeug fabrik)
    30. 08:53 PM - Main bus wire feed (Steve James)
    31. 08:57 PM - Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio (europa flugzeug fabrik)
    32. 09:02 PM - Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio (europa flugzeug fabrik)
    33. 10:51 PM - Re: Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio (B Tomm)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 01:21:48 AM PST US
    From: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com In a message dated 7/15/06 10:05:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, luckymacy@comcast.net writes: ========================================= Dear UN-Lucky: Reading your post you seem to have answered your own questions. I have inserted my comments within the body of your post. Please read on ... > I have two "comm" issues that I haven't been able to debug to completion yet. > I'm using an Xcom 760 radio with their pre-made harness. > > 1) I still hear my strobes in my headset even when they are grounded with > the radio ground and even when I put power noise filters on. However, the > Radio Shack noise filters reference on Bob's web site were reported to me to > be no longer carried by them. So I used the only ones I could find locally > which were sold by Pep Boys and the capacitor was 4700 uF instead of 2200 uF > like Radio Shack apparently was. - - - - - - - - - - [Barry] - Strobe ground and Radio ground? I'm not sure what you are referring to here. Can you elaborate a bit more? BUT, if you are talking about using a SHIELDED wire as your ground ... The shield should be grounded ONLY at the STROBE and you should use two conductor and a shield wire. As for the value of the capacitor, in 99.9% of the noise cases concerning a DC circuit [our planes] the bigger the value the better. I really doubt if the filter was designed ONLY for a specific frequency ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------- > > More specifically, the strobe noise is relatively faint until I select the > Push to Talk button. Then it gets pretty loud. Some feedback going on there. > Looking for ideas from this list. - - - - - - - - - - - [Barry] Yup, sure sounds like the Ground for the PTT is the same Ground for the Strobe. Here is where a problem may exist. Reading from either side of the PTT to ground should NOT show continuity. This is a general statement, each radio may be different but you would want to check this out and make sure the PTT runs all the way back to the radio and NOT to A/C ground. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Should the capacitor specs have made a big difference on the effectiveness > overall of the noise filter? It made no measurable difference regardless of > whether I installed it just before the radio or out at the strobe's power > supply just before the AC +14v entered the power supply. I even reversed > direction of the filter and it didn't matter one iota. Really bummed out > about this turn of events since I thought they'd at least have made some > observable difference based upon stuff in the archives. - - - - - - - - - - [Barry] - QUESTIONS: How many leads does the filter have? What are they labeled? Most filters will have three of four leads. They may be: (4 lead) Pos & Neg INPUT with Pos & Neg OUTPUT. Or, (3 lead) Pos & Neg INPUT with a Pos OUTPUT {common Ground/Neg}. The filter should go ON the device that is making the noise ... STROBE. But, you have to go back and check how you hooked up the GROUNDS. I'm betting that: 1 - The filter is not right next to the strobe. 2 - The power leads are not shielded. 3 - The ground goes all the way back to the area of the radios. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ - > 2) The second overall problem is that the radio still is reported to me by > other pilots as weak when I get much beyond a couple of miles and breaks up > in the pattern a lot. I'm guessing it's because I can't put out enough > consistent power to break their squelch consistently. When on the actual > ground taxiing around, if there's a crown or "hill" between me and another > airplane on the ground forget it. They can't hear me or vice a versa. > > When I check my radio with a handheld on the ground I seem to be just fine > for the relatively close distances I've tried even when the plane is inside > an open hangar and come in just as loud on the hand held as anyone else is. > It also doesn't matter whether or not the strobes are powered on or not as > far as whether or not the range/strength improves. ie, even with them off > the lack of range doesn't improve. > > I swapped the cable between the radio and the antenna and it made no > difference. I bought my antenna from Van's but didn't do any kind of post > install test besides checking it out with my comm radio and a hand held and > it seemed fine at the time... - - - - - - - - - - - - [Barry] - What kind of antenna are you using and where is it mounted? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------- > Instead of using RG-58 I bought two pre-made RG-400 cables. What should the > center conductor's resistance read end to end? ~58 Ohms, right? My actual > reading bounces all over the place no matter how stable I am in trying to > read it. Strange. Also, there doesn't seem to be a short between the center > conductor and the plug itself when I check it with a multimeter so I'm > guessing the plugs were installed correctly. > > Things I have left to try is just buy a pre-made 12' RG-58 cable from radio > shack and try it instead of the RG-400 cables. Also, I don't have a spare > comm antenna but I think RS carries a replacement 800 Mhz scanner antenna > with the right BNC connector that I can just temporarily use just to see if > makes any difference at all. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - [Barry] - YOU just answered your own question. The RESISTANCE of a COAX when disconnected from both ends should read OPEN _ INFINITY between center conductor and shield. It should read SHORT_ ZERO between one end shield and the other end shield. It should also read SHORT_ ZERO between one end center conductor to other end center conductor. As for the COAX, RG-400 is 75 ohm impeadance cable it is also a quad shield cable a VERY good cable but not suited for our needs. We should be using RG-58 or RG-58A/U. It works for us very well. Oh, notice I used the term IMPEDANCE. This is an AC resistance and is NOT measured with an OHM Meter. Concerning the RG-800 .... I am not familiar with it. RG-58 is what you need to use. As for the Radio Shack (Real $hit) pre-made COAX stay away from it. I have seen so many problems in their assembly, wrong coax, poor connections and CRIMPS! You do not want a crimped coax. NO self-respecting RF Man will accept a CRIMPED coax. Barry "Chop'd Liver"


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:09:14 AM PST US
    From: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
    Subject: Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio
    My answers and corrections to your wrong guesses/assumptions below: -------------- Original message -------------- > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com > > In a message dated 7/15/06 10:05:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > luckymacy@comcast.net writes: > ========================================== > Dear UN-Lucky: > > Reading your post you seem to have answered your own questions. I have > inserted my comments within the body of your post. Please read on ... > > > > I have two "comm" issues that I haven't been able to debug to completion > yet. > > I'm using an Xcom 760 radio with their pre-made harness. > > > > 1) I still hear my strobes in my headset even when they are grounded with > > the radio ground and even when I put power noise filters on. However, the > > Radio Shack noise filters reference on Bob's web site were reported to me > to > > be no longer carried by them. So I used the only ones I could find locally > > which were sold by Pep Boys and the capacitor was 4700 uF instead of 2200 > uF > > like Radio Shack apparently was. > - - - - - - - - - - > [Barry] - Strobe ground and Radio ground? I'm not sure what you are > referring to here. Can you elaborate a bit more? Lucky: My 2 strobe power supplies are installed at the wing tip and grounded to the wing spar locally. Moving the grounds to back in the area where the rest of my electronics were grounded including the XCOM radio didn't have any affect. Also, disconnecting one strobe's power supply at a time didn't show that just one was the culprit. They were both equal contributors. Installing the audio noise filters out at the wing tips on the 14vdc input line just prior to the strobe power supply had no affect. Installing one of those audio noise filters (a plastic box with an inductor and a capacitor) on the 14vdc input line to the xcom radio itself also had no affect. BTW, after I originally bought and installed the Xcom radio, they revised their drawing and FAQ section to REQUIRE owners install a 22,000 uF cap betwee the xcom and it's power source near the radio. I didn't do that. Couldn't locally find such cap. > BUT, if you are talking about using a SHIELDED wire as your ground ... The > shield should be grounded ONLY at the STROBE and you should use two conductor > and a shield wire. > As for the value of the capacitor, in 99.9% of the noise cases concerning a > DC circuit [our planes] the bigger the value the better. I really doubt if the > filter was designed ONLY for a specific frequency > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Lucky: I used Van's pre-made wiring kit but I don't recall if the wiring to the strobes was shielded or not. I'll check on that today to see if I or Van's made a mistake because there is NO evidence shielded wiring was used for the strobe power supply. It's been a long time since I hooked that up originally and haven't looked at that angle yet so details are very fuzzy. The noise filter was marketed to address noise introduced into radios when the car's engine RPM is increased. But pulling its case open revealed it's just the same 3 wire setup that Radio Shack was selling for while but with a different cap rating. > ------------- > > > > More specifically, the strobe noise is relatively faint until I select the > > Push to Talk button. Then it gets pretty loud. Some feedback going on > there. > > Looking for ideas from this list. > - - - - - - - - - - - > [Barry] Yup, sure sounds like the Ground for the PTT is the same Ground for > the Strobe. Here is where a problem may exist. Reading from either side of > the PTT to ground should NOT show continuity. This is a general statement, each > radio may be different but you would want to check this out and make sure the > PTT runs all the way back to the radio and NOT to A/C ground. > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Lucky: I'll check it out today. The original PTT switch came pre-wired with the radio harness but I cut it off to use a different switch already installed in my grip but just mirrored the pre-made setup. > > > > Should the capacitor specs have made a big difference on the effectiveness > > overall of the noise filter? It made no measurable difference regardless > of > > whether I installed it just before the radio or out at the strobe's power > > supply just before the AC +14v entered the power supply. I even reversed > > direction of the filter and it didn't matter one iota. Really bummed out > > about this turn of events since I thought they'd at least have made some > > observable difference based upon stuff in the archives. > - - - - - - - - - - > [Barry] - QUESTIONS: > How many leads does the filter have? > What are they labeled? > Most filters will have three of four leads. They may be: (4 lead) Pos & Neg > INPUT with Pos & Neg OUTPUT. Or, (3 lead) Pos & Neg INPUT with a Pos OUTPUT > {common Ground/Neg}. > The filter should go ON the device that is making the noise ... STROBE. > But, you have to go back and check how you hooked up the GROUNDS. > I'm betting that: > 1 - The filter is not right next to the strobe. > 2 - The power leads are not shielded. > 3 - The ground goes all the way back to the area of the radios. > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Lucky: Filter has 3 leads. A postive IN, a Positive OUT and a ground lead coming from the same physical side off the box as the Positive OUT lead. It was installed literally adjacent to the strobes power supply's input voltage matching the filter's instructions with no affect and I reversed the filters Positive In/Out leads just for grins but again it made zero difference. I put in on just before the radio too and it also made no difference. The directions that came with it were assuming you were going to install it between a car radio and it's input voltage to clean up the input voltage. Not somewhere else near the actual source of "noise". > - > > 2) The second overall problem is that the radio still is reported to me > by > > other pilots as weak when I get much beyond a couple of miles and breaks up > > in the pattern a lot. I'm guessing it's because I can't put out enough > > consistent power to break their squelch consistently. When on the actual > > ground taxiing around, if there's a crown or "hill" between me and another > > airplane on the ground forget it. They can't hear me or vice a versa. > > > > When I check my radio with a handheld on the ground I seem to be just fine > > for the relatively close distances I've tried even when the plane is inside > > an open hangar and come in just as loud on the hand held as anyone else is. > > > It also doesn't matter whether or not the strobes are powered on or not as > > far as whether or not the range/strength improves. ie, even with them off > > the lack of range doesn't improve. > > > > I swapped the cable between the radio and the antenna and it made no > > difference. I bought my antenna from Van's but didn't do any kind of post > > install test besides checking it out with my comm radio and a hand held and > > it seemed fine at the time... > - - - - - - - - - - - - > [Barry] - What kind of antenna are you using and where is it mounted? > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ It's one of the bent which antennas that Van's sells. Don't remember the brand. Will look it over again today. > ------- > > Instead of using RG-58 I bought two pre-made RG-400 cables. What should > the > > center conductor's resistance read end to end? ~58 Ohms, right? My actual > > reading bounces all over the place no matter how stable I am in trying to > > read it. Strange. Also, there doesn't seem to be a short between the > center > > conductor and the plug itself when I check it with a multimeter so I'm > > guessing the plugs were installed correctly. > > > > Things I have left to try is just buy a pre-made 12' RG-58 cable from > radio > > shack and try it instead of the RG-400 cables. Also, I don't have a spare > > comm antenna but I think RS carries a replacement 800 Mhz scanner antenna > > with the right BNC connector that I can just temporarily use just to see if > > makes any difference at all. > - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > [Barry] - YOU just answered your own question. The RESISTANCE of a COAX when > disconnected from both ends should read OPEN _ INFINITY between center > conductor and shield. It should read SHORT_ ZERO between one end shield and the > other end shield. It should also read SHORT_ ZERO between one end center > conductor to other end center conductor. > As for the COAX, RG-400 is 75 ohm impeadance cable it is also a quad shield > cable a VERY good cable but not suited for our needs. We should be using RG-58 > or RG-58A/U. It works for us very well. Oh, notice I used the term > IMPEDANCE. This is an AC resistance and is NOT measured with an OHM Meter. > Concerning the RG-800 .... I am not familiar with it. RG-58 is what you need > to use. Lucky: RG-800? Why did you bring that up? Also, I think RG-400 is RF the same as RG-58 but better shielded as you point out and it should be superior to RG-58 if cable flexibility isn't an issue. It should NOT be the problem BUT I threw out using RS pre-made RG-58 just to rule out some manufactering/fabrication of the pre-made RG-400 cables. Thanks for the ideas and feedback, Lucky > As for the Radio Shack (Real $hit) pre-made COAX stay away from it. I have > seen so many problems in their assembly, wrong coax, poor connections and > CRIMPS! You do not want a crimped coax. > > NO self-respecting RF Man will accept a CRIMPED coax. > > > > Barry > "Chop'd Liver" > > > > > > > > > > > > <html><body> <DIV>My answers and corrections to your wrong guesses/assumptions below:</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"> <P>-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: FLYaDIVE@aol.com <BR><BR>&gt; --&gt; AeroElectric-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; In a message dated 7/15/06 10:05:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, <BR>&gt; luckymacy@comcast.net writes: <BR>&gt; ========================================== <BR>&gt; Dear UN-Lucky: <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; Reading your post you seem to have answered your own questions. I have <BR>&gt; inserted my comments within the body of your post. Please read on ... <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; &gt; I have two "comm" issues that I haven't been able to debug to completion <BR>&gt; yet. <BR>&gt; &gt; I'm using an Xcom 760 radio with their pre-made harness. <BR>&gt; &gt; <BR>&gt; &gt; 1) I still hear my strobes in my headset even when they are grounded with <BR>&gt; &gt; the radio ground and even when I put power noise filters on. However, the <BR>&gt; &gt; Radio Shack noise filters reference on Bob's web site were reported to me <BR>&gt; to <B R>&gt; &gt; be no longer carried by them. So I used the only ones I could find locally <BR>&gt; &gt; which were sold by Pep Boys and the capacitor was 4700 uF instead of 2200 <BR>&gt; uF <BR>&gt; &gt; like Radio Shack apparently was. <BR>&gt; - - - - - - - - - - <BR>&gt; [Barry] - Strobe ground and Radio ground? I'm not sure what you are <BR>&gt; referring to here. Can you elaborate a bit more? </P> <P>Lucky:&nbsp; My 2 strobe power supplies are installed at the wing tip and grounded to the wing spar locally.&nbsp; Moving the grounds to back in the area where the rest of my electronics were grounded including the XCOM radio didn't have any affect.</P> <P>Also, disconnecting one strobe's power supply at a time didn't show that just one was the culprit.&nbsp; They were both equal contributors.&nbsp; Installing the audio noise filters out at the wing tips on the 14vdc input line just prior to the strobe power supply had no affect.&nbsp; Installing one of those audio noise filters (a plastic box with an inductor and a capacitor) on the 14vdc&nbsp;input line to the xcom radio itself also had no affect.&nbsp; </P> <P>BTW, after I originally bought and installed the Xcom radio, they revised their drawing and FAQ section to REQUIRE owners install a 22,000 uF cap betwee the xcom and it's power source near the radio.&nbsp; I didn't do that.&nbsp; Couldn't locally find such cap.&nbsp;</P> <P><BR>&gt; BUT, if you are talking about using a SHIELDED wire as your ground ... The <BR>&gt; shield should be grounded ONLY at the STROBE and you should use two conductor <BR>&gt; and a shield wire. <BR>&gt; As for the value of the capacitor, in 99.9% of the noise cases concerning a <BR>&gt; DC circuit [our planes] the bigger the value the better. I really doubt if the <BR>&gt; filter was designed ONLY for a specific frequency <BR>&gt; ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ </P> <P>Lucky:&nbsp; I used Van's pre-made wiring kit but I don't recall if the wiring to the strobes was shielded or not.&nbsp; I'll check on that today to see if I or Van's&nbsp;made a mistake because there is NO evidence shielded wiring was used for the strobe power supply.&nbsp;It's been a long time since I hooked that up originally and haven't looked at that angle yet so details are very fuzzy.&nbsp; The noise filter was marketed to address noise introduced into radios when the car's engine RPM is increased.&nbsp; But pulling its case open revealed it's just the same 3 wire setup that Radio Shack was selling for while but with a different cap rating.</P> <P>&nbsp;</P> <P><BR>&gt; ------------- <BR>&gt; &gt; <BR>&gt; &gt; More specifically, the strobe noise is relatively faint until I select the <BR>&gt; &gt; Push to Talk button. Then it gets pretty loud. Some feedback going on <BR>&gt; there. <BR>&gt; &gt; Looking for ideas from this list. <BR>&gt; - - - - - - - - - - - <BR>&gt; [Barry] Yup, sure sounds like the Ground for the PTT is the same Ground for <BR>&gt; the Strobe. Here is where a problem may exist. Reading from either side of <BR>&gt; the PTT to ground should NOT show continuity. This is a general statement, each <BR>&gt; radio may be different but you would want to check this out and make sure the <BR>&gt; PTT runs all the way back to the radio and NOT to A/C ground. <BR>&gt; ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- </P> <P>Lucky:&nbsp; I'll check it out today.&nbsp; The original PTT switch came pre-wired with the radio harness but I cut it off to use a different switch already installed in my grip but just mirrored the pre-made setup.</P> <P><BR>&gt; &gt; <BR>&gt; &gt; Should the capacitor specs have made a big difference on the effectiveness <BR>&gt; &gt; overall of the noise filter? It made no measurable difference regardless <BR>&gt; of <BR>&gt; &gt; whether I installed it just before the radio or out at the strobe's power <BR>&gt; &gt; supply just before the AC +14v entered the power supply. I even reversed <BR>&gt; &gt; direction of the filter and it didn't matter one iota. Really bummed out <BR>&gt; &gt; about this turn of events since I thought they'd at least have made some <BR>&gt; &gt; observable difference based upon stuff in the archives. <BR>&gt; - - - - - - - - - - <BR>&gt; [Barry] - QUESTIONS: <BR>&gt; How many leads does the filter have? <BR>&gt; What are they labeled? <BR>&gt; Most filters will have three of four leads. They may be: (4 lead) Pos &amp; Neg <BR>&gt; INPUT with Pos &amp; Neg OUTPUT. Or, (3 lead) Pos &amp; Neg INPUT with a Pos OUTPUT <BR>&gt; {common Ground/Neg}. <BR>&gt; The filt er sho uld go ON the device that is making the noise ... STROBE. <BR>&gt; But, you have to go back and check how you hooked up the GROUNDS. <BR>&gt; I'm betting that: <BR>&gt; 1 - The filter is not right next to the strobe. <BR>&gt; 2 - The power leads are not shielded. <BR>&gt; 3 - The ground goes all the way back to the area of the radios. <BR>&gt; ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ </P> <P>Lucky:&nbsp; Filter has 3 leads.&nbsp; A postive IN, a Positive OUT and a ground lead coming from the same physical side off the box as the Positive OUT lead.&nbsp; It was installed literally adjacent to the strobes power supply's input voltage matching the filter's instructions with no affect and I reversed the filters Positive In/Out leads just for grins but again it made zero difference.&nbsp; I put in on just before the radio too and it also made no difference.&nbsp; The directions that came with it were assuming you were going to install it between a car radio and it's input voltage to clean up the input voltage.&nbsp; Not somewhere else near the actual source of "noise".</P> <P><BR>&gt; - <BR>&gt; &gt; 2) The second overall problem is that the radio still is reported to me <BR>&gt; by <BR>&gt; &gt; other pilots as weak when I get much beyond a couple of miles and breaks up <BR>&gt; &gt; in the pattern a lot. I'm guessing it's because I can't put out enough <BR>&gt; &gt; consistent power to break their squelch consistently. When on the actual <BR>&gt; &gt; ground taxiing around, if there's a crown or "hill" between me and another <BR>&gt; &gt; airplane on the ground forget it. They can't hear me or vice a versa. <BR>&gt; &gt; <BR>&gt; &gt; When I check my radio with a handheld on the ground I seem to be just fine <BR>&gt; &gt; for the relatively close distances I've tried even when the plane is inside <BR>&gt; &gt; an open hangar and come in just as loud on the hand held as anyone else is. <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; &gt; It also doesn't matter whether or not the strobes are powered on or not as <BR>&gt; &gt; far as whether or not the range/strength improve s. ie, even with them off <BR>&gt; &gt; the lack of range doesn't improve. <BR>&gt; &gt; <BR>&gt; &gt; I swapped the cable between the radio and the antenna and it made no <BR>&gt; &gt; difference. I bought my antenna from Van's but didn't do any kind of post <BR>&gt; &gt; install test besides checking it out with my comm radio and a hand held and <BR>&gt; &gt; it seemed fine at the time... <BR>&gt; - - - - - - - - - - - - <BR>&gt; [Barry] - What kind of antenna are you using and where is it mounted? <BR>&gt; ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ </P> <P>It's one of the bent which antennas that Van's sells.&nbsp; Don't remember the brand.&nbsp; Will look it over again today.</P> <P><BR>&gt; ------- <BR>&gt; &gt; Instead of using RG-58 I bought two pre-made RG-400 cables. What should <BR>&gt; the <BR>&gt; &gt; center conductor's resistance read end to end? ~58 Ohms, right? My actual <BR>&gt; &gt; reading bounces all over the place no matter how stable I am in trying to <BR>&gt; &gt; read it. Strange. Also, there doesn't seem to be a short between the <BR>&gt; center <BR>&gt; &gt; conductor and the plug itself when I check it with a multimeter so I'm <BR>&gt; &gt; guessing the plugs were installed correctly. <BR>&gt; &gt; <BR>&gt; &gt; Things I have left to try is just buy a pre-made 12' RG-58 cable from <BR>&gt; radio <BR>&gt; &gt; shack and try it instead of the RG-400 cables. Also, I don't have a spare <BR>&gt; &gt; comm antenna but I think RS carries a replacement 800 Mhz scanner antenna <BR>&gt; &gt; with the right BNC connector that I can just temporarily use just to see if <BR>&gt; &gt; makes any difference at all. <BR>&gt; - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - <BR>&gt; [Barry] - YOU just answered your own question. The RESISTANCE of a COAX when <BR>&gt; disconnected from both ends should read OPEN _ INFINITY between center <BR>&gt; conductor and shield. It should read SHORT_ ZERO between one end shield and the <BR>&gt; other end shield. It should also read SHORT_ ZERO between one end center <BR>&gt; conductor to other end center conductor. <BR>&gt; As for the COAX, RG-400 is 75 ohm impeadance cable it is also a quad shield <BR>&gt; cable a VERY good cable but not suited for our needs. We should be using RG-58 <BR>&gt; or RG-58A/U. It works for us very well. Oh, notice I used the term <BR>&gt; IMPEDANCE. This is an AC resistance and is NOT measured with an OHM Meter. <BR>&gt; Concerning the RG-800 .... I am not familiar with it. RG-58 is what you need <BR>&gt; to use. </P> <P>&nbsp;</P> <P>Lucky:&nbsp; RG-800?&nbsp; Why did you bring that up?&nbsp; Also, I think RG-400 is RF the same as RG-58 but better shielded as you point out and it should be superior to RG-58 if cable flexibility isn't an issue.&nbsp; It should NOT be the problem BUT I threw out using RS pre-made RG-58 just to rule out some manufactering/fabrication of the pre-made RG-400 cables.</P> <P>&nbsp;</P> <P>Thanks for the ideas and feedback,</P> <P>Lucky</P> atroni


    Message 3


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    Time: 05:09:53 AM PST US
    From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
    Subject: Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net> Hi Barry My references indicate that RG-400 and RG-58 are both 50 ohm coax and that RG-400 is lower loss and preferable ?? Ken snip >As for the COAX, RG-400 is 75 ohm impeadance cable it is also a quad shield >cable a VERY good cable but not suited for our needs. We should be using RG-58 >or RG-58A/U. It works for us very well. Oh, notice I used the term >IMPEDANCE. This is an AC resistance and is NOT measured with an OHM Meter. >Concerning the RG-800 .... I am not familiar with it. RG-58 is what you need >to use. >As for the Radio Shack (Real $hit) pre-made COAX stay away from it. I have >seen so many problems in their assembly, wrong coax, poor connections and >CRIMPS! You do not want a crimped coax. > >NO self-respecting RF Man will accept a CRIMPED coax. > > >Barry >"Chop'd Liver" > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:12:44 AM PST US
    From: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
    Subject: Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio
    -------------- Original message -------------- In a message dated 7/15/2006 10:05:43 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, luckymacy@comcast.net writes: Instead of using RG-58 I bought two pre-made RG-400 cables. What should the center conductor's resistance read end to end? ~58 Ohms, right? My actual reading bounces all over the place no matter how stable I am in trying to read it. Strange. Also, there doesn't seem to be a short between the center conductor and the plug itself when I check it with a multimeter so I'm guessing the plugs were installed correctly. No, with a DC meter the cable should read very low resistance from end to end on the center conductor. You should measure an open from center conductor to shield. And you should measure a short from end to end on the outer shield of the fittings. It sounds like you may have a bad (loose) connection. The 50 ohms refers to the high frequency characteristic impedance of the cable. That is the ratio of voltage to current in the cable is (or should be) 50 ohms while it is conducting RF. Lucky: Yep, what was I thinking when I wrote that. The resistance from tip to tip is basically zero and both sides off the cable show open between the center conductor's tip and the shield. Also, I mention using this cable not because it should work well but to use ANY antenna temporarily that's isolated from the airframe to help in figuring out of the current one is part of the problem. Things I have left to try is just buy a pre-made 12' RG-58 cable from radio shack and try it instead of the RG-400 cables. Also, I don't have a spare comm antenna but I think RS carries a replacement 800 Mhz scanner antenna with the right BNC connector that I can just temporarily use just to see if makes any difference at all. Forget trying to use the 800 MHz antenna on the VHF Aircraft Band -- not a good idea at all. Any ideas from the list? I recommend finding a ham operator with an MFJ-259B or similar type instrument that will measure the SWR of your antenna system. That is, check out your feedline and antenna. Try to determine if the antenna is OK then check antenna and feedline together, etc. Make sure the antenna is grounded to the aircraft skin by measuring from the coax fitting with the coax disconnected to the skin with a DC ohmmeter. You should measure a short. Hope this helps, Dan Hopper K9WEK RV-7A <html><body> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: Hopperdhh@aol.com <BR> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2912" name=GENERATOR><FONT id=role_document face=Arial color=#000000 size=2> <DIV>In a message dated 7/15/2006 10:05:43 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, luckymacy@comcast.net writes:</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>Instead of using RG-58 I bought two pre-made RG-400 cables.&nbsp; What should the center conductor's resistance read end to end?&nbsp; ~58 Ohms, right? My actual reading bounces all over the place no matter how stable I am in trying to read it. Strange.&nbsp;&nbsp; Also, there doesn't seem to be a short between the center conductor and the plug itself when I check it with a multimeter so I'm guessing the plugs were installed correctly.<BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE> <DIV>No, with a DC meter the cable should read very low resistance from end to end on the center conductor.&nbsp; You should measure an open from center conductor to shield.&nbsp; And you should measure a short from end to end on the outer shield of the fittings.&nbsp; It sounds like you may have a bad (loose) connection.&nbsp; The 50 ohms refers to the high frequency characteristic impedance of the cable.&nbsp; That is the ratio of voltage to current in the cable is (or should be)&nbsp;50 ohms while it is conducting RF.</DIV> <DIV><BR>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Lucky:&nbsp; Yep, what was I thinking when I wrote that.&nbsp; The resistance from tip to tip is basically zero and both sides off the cable show open between the center conductor's tip and the shield.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Also, I mention using this cable not because it should work well but to use ANY antenna temporarily that's isolated from the airframe to help in figuring out of the current one is part of the problem.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2><BR>Things I have left to try is just buy a pre-made 12' RG-58 cable from radio shack and try it instead of the RG-400 cables.&nbsp; Also, I don't have a spare comm antenna but I think RS carries a replacement 800 Mhz scanner antenna with the right BNC connector that I can just temporarily use just to see if makes any difference at all.&nbsp; <BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE> <DIV>Forget trying to use the 800 MHz antenna on the VHF Aircraft Band -- not a good idea at all.</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2><BR>Any ideas from the list?<BR><BR><BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>I recommend finding a ham operator with an MFJ-259B or similar type instrument that will measure the SWR of your antenna system.&nbsp; That is, check out your feedline and antenna.&nbsp; Try to determine if the antenna is OK then check antenna and feedline together, etc.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Make sure the antenna is grounded to the aircraft skin by measuring from the coax fitting with the coax disconnected to the skin with a DC ohmmeter.&nbsp; You should measure a short.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Hope this helps,</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Dan Hopper</DIV> <DIV>K9WEK</DIV> <DIV>RV-7A</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></body></html>


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:56:38 AM PST US
    From: tomcostanza@comcast.net
    Subject: Landing lights & relays
    What is your opinion of using mechanical relays to implement wig-wag flashing of landing lights? I would like to use a rotary switch with the following pattern: off, wig-wag, landing, taxi (4 positions). Otherwise I would need to use 3 toggle switches and a complicated switch operation. Using transistors would lower the voltage at the light by about 1.5 volts. To confuse the issue further, I have wingtip landing and taxi lights (1 landing and 1 taxi on each wing) 4 lights total. Using relays would solve my problems, but I don't know the longevity of the relay. What are your thoughts? Thanks, Tom Costanza RV-7A Fuselage <html><body> <DIV><FONT size=2> <P>What is your opinion of using mechanical relays to implement wig-wag flashing of landing lights? </P> <P>I would like to use a rotary switch&nbsp;with the following pattern:&nbsp;off, wig-wag, landing, taxi (4 positions). Otherwise I would need to use 3 toggle switches and a complicated switch operation. Using transistors would lower the voltage at the light by about 1.5 volts. To confuse the issue further, I have wingtip landing and taxi lights (1 landing and 1 taxi on each wing) 4 lights total. Using relays would solve my problems, but I don't know the longevity of the relay. </P> <P>What are your thoughts?</P> <P>Thanks,</P> <P>Tom Costanza</P> <P>RV-7A Fuselage</P></FONT></DIV></body></html>


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:56:43 AM PST US
    From: Duane Wilson <aaa@pacifier.com>
    Subject: Hall effect amp meter telling the truth?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Duane Wilson <aaa@pacifier.com> I have a Hall effect current sensor hooked up to my GRT EIS-4000. I have set the parameters in the EIS as stated on the instillation sheet for the Hall effect sensor. When I turn on my 2 GRT Horizon 1 displays, my Val avionics VOR, Garmin 300XL, transponder (standby) and panel lights I get a reading of about .6 on the EIS. This seems low to me. How can I verify the current draw. I don't have an amp meter. Duane Wilson


    Message 7


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    Time: 07:19:04 AM PST US
    From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
    Subject: VM1000 light system failure
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net> Fellow listers, Anyone out there experience a failure mode with their VM1000 internal lighting system? The lights worked up until a few days ago...I'm trying to remember if I have done anything to the lighting system that might cause the failure mode sooooo........ Here's the troubleshooting that I have already done: Pin 20 has 13.3 VDC Pin 21 has between 4.1 VDC and 10.8 VDC depending on the dimmer setting Pin 22 has continuity to ground These three are 'as designed' in my opinion - so the proper stuff is at least getting to the DPU. Is there something that I can check on the cable between the DPU and the display? I've sent a note to Vision Microsystems - I'll post their response......... Ralph Capen


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:22:19 AM PST US
    From: Michael Burson <n821x@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Figure Z-7
    I noticed the old figure Z-7 for the Rotax 912 installation has been replaced by figure Z-16. I've had my Rans S7 flying for over 200 hours and was wondering if I should make the changes to my system to update it to the new schematic? Was there a problem with the old figure Z-7? Mike --------------------------------- See the all-new, redesigned Yahoo.com. Check it out.


    Message 9


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    Time: 09:00:05 AM PST US
    From: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
    Subject: Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com> On Jul 15, 2006, at 9:54 PM, lucky wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > > I have two "comm" issues that I haven't been able to debug to > completion yet. I'm using an Xcom 760 radio with their pre-made > harness. > > 1) I still hear my strobes in my headset even when they are > grounded with the radio ground and even when I put power noise > filters on. However, the Radio Shack noise filters reference on > Bob's web site were reported to me to be no longer carried by > them. So I used the only ones I could find locally which were sold > by Pep Boys and the capacitor was 4700 uF instead of 2200 uF like > Radio Shack apparently was. Make sure your mic and headphone jacks are insulated from the airframe. Use fiber insulating washers between the jack and the panel. The 4700 uF cap is fine as it will have about twice the filtering of a 2200 uF cap. OTOH, if all your filter is is a capacitor, it will have almost no effect. You also need a choke in series with the power lead like this: fuseblock ---------[choke]----+-------->[radio] | [capacitor] | v ground Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way brian-yak AT lloyd DOT com Folsom, CA 95630 +1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax) I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . . Antoine de Saint-Exupry


    Message 10


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    Time: 09:45:19 AM PST US
    From: "Doug Windhorn" <N1DeltaWhiskey@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Landing lights & relays
    Tom, One way to look at this is that if landing/taxi lights (nor wig/wag) are not required for night flight, so what does it matter if the relay fails? One landing without the benefit of them? I would just get a quality relay and let the longevity concern take care of itself - don't plan to do much night flying anyway. Do you preflight check all the lights and wig/wag function? (This is rhetorical. If not, then how do you not know whether a light has burned out, a more likely event that losing a relay, I think. I would check light function only if I thought I would have the potential to use them during a flight. Obviously, if you use wig-wag as a safety feature during normal flights, one would check proper operation before takeoff.) Regards, Doug Windhorn ----- Original Message ----- From: tomcostanza@comcast.net To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, 16 July, 2006 6:53 Subject: AeroElectric-List: Landing lights & relays What is your opinion of using mechanical relays to implement wig-wag flashing of landing lights? I would like to use a rotary switch with the following pattern: off, wig-wag, landing, taxi (4 positions). Otherwise I would need to use 3 toggle switches and a complicated switch operation. Using transistors would lower the voltage at the light by about 1.5 volts. To confuse the issue further, I have wingtip landing and taxi lights (1 landing and 1 taxi on each wing) 4 lights total. Using relays would solve my problems, but I don't know the longevity of the relay. What are your thoughts? Thanks, Tom Costanza RV-7A Fuselage


    Message 11


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    Time: 11:23:26 AM PST US
    From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
    Subject: Re: Landing lights & relays
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net> Not sure how many lights you have Tom. I have a landing light and a taxi light in both wingtips. Four lamps total. One toggle switch turns on both landing lights. Another toggle switch turns on both taxi lights. A third toggle switch selects whether the two taxi lights stay on steady or wig wag when the taxi lights are on. No relays, diodes, or transistors. Common cheap toggle switches and an off the shelf cheap automotive mechancal flasher (OK I guess there is a relay inside the flasher ;) Seemed pretty simple to me. For daytime operation all I ever touch is the taxi light switch. Ken tomcostanza@comcast.net wrote: > What is your opinion of using mechanical relays to implement wig-wag > flashing of landing lights? > > I would like to use a rotary switch with the following pattern: off, > wig-wag, landing, taxi (4 positions). Otherwise I would need to use 3 > toggle switches and a complicated switch operation. Using transistors > would lower the voltage at the light by about 1.5 volts. To confuse > the issue further, I have wingtip landing and taxi lights (1 landing > and 1 taxi on each wing) 4 lights total. Using relays would solve my > problems, but I don't know the longevity of the relay. > > What are your thoughts? > > Thanks, > > Tom Costanza > > RV-7A Fuselage >


    Message 12


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    Time: 12:27:27 PM PST US
    From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
    Subject: Re: Hall effect amp meter telling the truth?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net> Hi Duane The stuff you mentioned doesn't draw much so it might be OK but I do seem to recall having to tweak the settings to get mine to read accurately. Best way is a cheap digital meter as I've seen ones that will read 10 amps for under $10. You almost have to have something like that in your bag of tools anyway. For a gross check within 10 or 20% how about connecting up something with a known resistance or current draw like perhaps a landing light? Ken. Duane Wilson wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Duane Wilson <aaa@pacifier.com> > > I have a Hall effect current sensor hooked up to my GRT EIS-4000. I > have set the parameters in the EIS as stated on the instillation sheet > for the Hall effect sensor. > > When I turn on my 2 GRT Horizon 1 displays, my Val avionics VOR, > Garmin 300XL, transponder (standby) and panel lights I get a reading > of about .6 on the EIS. > > This seems low to me. How can I verify the current draw. I don't > have an amp meter. > > Duane Wilson


    Message 13


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    Time: 12:42:15 PM PST US
    From: "Harry Manvel" <hmanvel@manvel.com>
    Subject: Re: VM1000 light system failure
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Harry Manvel" <hmanvel@manvel.com> I had one that failed and had to send it in to Vision and get the lighting repaired. It still would light, but real dim. Not sure what caused it but it's fixed now. Harry Manvel Defiant N2HM PTK / Pontiac, MI ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 10:08 AM > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" > <recapen@earthlink.net> > > Fellow listers, > > Anyone out there experience a failure mode with their VM1000 internal > lighting system? The lights worked up until a few days ago...I'm trying > to remember if I have done anything to the lighting system that might > cause the failure mode sooooo........ > > Here's the troubleshooting that I have already done: > > Pin 20 has 13.3 VDC > Pin 21 has between 4.1 VDC and 10.8 VDC depending on the dimmer setting > Pin 22 has continuity to ground > > These three are 'as designed' in my opinion - so the proper stuff is at > least getting to the DPU. > Is there something that I can check on the cable between the DPU and the > display? > > I've sent a note to Vision Microsystems - I'll post their > response......... > > Ralph Capen > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List > http://wiki.matronics.com > > >


    Message 14


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    Time: 12:48:19 PM PST US
    From: Hopperdhh@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Hall effect amp meter telling the truth?
    Duane, I was in at our new Harbor Freight store and they had neat little digital meters on sale for $2.99. Had a 10 amp scale, too. I don't need another meter, but I almost bought a couple anyway. Dan do not archive In a message dated 7/16/2006 3:29:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, klehman@albedo.net writes: --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net> Hi Duane The stuff you mentioned doesn't draw much so it might be OK but I do seem to recall having to tweak the settings to get mine to read accurately. Best way is a cheap digital meter as I've seen ones that will read 10 amps for under $10. You almost have to have something like that in your bag of tools anyway. For a gross check within 10 or 20% how about connecting up something with a known resistance or current draw like perhaps a landing light? Ken. Duane Wilson wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Duane Wilson <aaa@pacifier.com> > > I have a Hall effect current sensor hooked up to my GRT EIS-4000. I > have set the parameters in the EIS as stated on the instillation sheet > for the Hall effect sensor. > > When I turn on my 2 GRT Horizon 1 displays, my Val avionics VOR, > Garmin 300XL, transponder (standby) and panel lights I get a reading > of about .6 on the EIS. > > This seems low to me. How can I verify the current draw. I don't > have an amp meter. > > Duane Wilson


    Message 15


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    Time: 02:16:31 PM PST US
    From: "John McMahon" <blackoaks@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Grounding lugs
    My mistake, They are steel not brass... On 7/16/06, John McMahon <blackoaks@gmail.com> wrote: > > Ok, got the transponder info, now... > > I am still wondering if I need to change out the 1/4" brass thru firewall > studs put in by Lancair. I am using #2 welding cable for the batteries. If > I've done the calculations correctly the diameter of AWG2 is .27", just > slightly more than 1/4". Would that .02 require going to 5/16" studs? > > Thanks to all who jumped in on the transponder part of the question. > > > > > > > > > > Second question regards the transmission of the transponder > > > > signal. Does the signal rediate from the shaft and the ball or > > > > > > > -- > John McMahon > Lancair Super ES, N9637M > -- John McMahon Lancair Super ES, N9637M


    Message 16


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    Time: 02:16:31 PM PST US
    From: "John McMahon" <blackoaks@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Grounding lugs
    Ok, got the transponder info, now... I am still wondering if I need to change out the 1/4" brass thru firewall studs put in by Lancair. I am using #2 welding cable for the batteries. If I've done the calculations correctly the diameter of AWG2 is .27", just slightly more than 1/4". Would that .02 require going to 5/16" studs? Thanks to all who jumped in on the transponder part of the question. > > > > > Second question regards the transmission of the transponder > > > signal. Does the signal rediate from the shaft and the ball or > > -- John McMahon Lancair Super ES, N9637M


    Message 17


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    Time: 02:28:08 PM PST US
    From: Hopperdhh@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Grounding lugs
    In a message dated 7/16/2006 5:18:40 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, blackoaks@gmail.com writes: Ok, got the transponder info, now... I am still wondering if I need to change out the 1/4" brass thru firewall studs put in by Lancair. I am using #2 welding cable for the batteries. If I've done the calculations correctly the diameter of AWG2 is .27", just slightly more than 1/4". Would that .02 require going to 5/16" studs? Thanks to all who jumped in on the transponder part of the question. John, No, It doesn't make any difference. Even steel is OK. In fact brass is not a very good conductor, believe it or not. It is much closer to steel than to copper. There is not that much resistance in the short length we are talking about. The main thing is a clean connection that won't corrode, and that is mechanically strong enough that it is reliable. Dan Hopper RV-7A


    Message 18


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    Time: 02:52:16 PM PST US
    From: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
    Subject: Re: Grounding lugs
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com> On Jul 16, 2006, at 5:10 PM, John McMahon wrote: > Ok, got the transponder info, now... > > I am still wondering if I need to change out the 1/4" brass thru > firewall studs put in by Lancair. I am using #2 welding cable for > the batteries. If I've done the calculations correctly the > diameter of AWG2 is .27", just slightly more than 1/4". Would > that .02 require going to 5/16" studs? No. The existing 1/4" stud will work just fine. There is likely more loss in the connection itself than in the resistance of the stud. Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way brian-yak AT lloyd DOT com Folsom, CA 95630 +1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax) I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . . Antoine de Saint-Exupry


    Message 19


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    Time: 03:11:50 PM PST US
    From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: VM1000 light system failure
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net> Was it the display that failed or the DPU? Thanks, Ralph ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 3:39 PM > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Harry Manvel" > <hmanvel@manvel.com> > > I had one that failed and had to send it in to Vision and get the lighting > repaired. It still would light, but real dim. Not sure what caused it but > it's fixed now. > Harry Manvel > Defiant N2HM > PTK / Pontiac, MI > > ----- Original Message ----- > Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 10:08 AM > > >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" >> <recapen@earthlink.net> >> >> Fellow listers, >> >> Anyone out there experience a failure mode with their VM1000 internal >> lighting system? The lights worked up until a few days ago...I'm trying >> to remember if I have done anything to the lighting system that might >> cause the failure mode sooooo........ >> >> Here's the troubleshooting that I have already done: >> >> Pin 20 has 13.3 VDC >> Pin 21 has between 4.1 VDC and 10.8 VDC depending on the dimmer setting >> Pin 22 has continuity to ground >> >> These three are 'as designed' in my opinion - so the proper stuff is at >> least getting to the DPU. >> Is there something that I can check on the cable between the DPU and the >> display? >> >> I've sent a note to Vision Microsystems - I'll post their >> response......... >> >> Ralph Capen >> >> >> >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List >> http://wiki.matronics.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List > http://wiki.matronics.com > > >


    Message 20


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    Time: 03:43:20 PM PST US
    From: tomcostanza@comcast.net
    Subject: Re: Landing lights & relays
    Doug, That's reasonable as long as the relay doesn't go South every couple months.I don't spend all my time replacing relays. The other concern was RFI.I also don't want to listen to the lights flashing or have them interferewith navigation. Thanks for the reply. If you have any further thoughts, I would be very interested. Regards,Tom Costanza Tom, One way to look at this is that if landing/taxi lights (nor wig/wag) are not required for night flight, so what does it matter if the relay fails? One landing without the benefit of them? I would just get a quality relay and let the longevity concern take care of itself - don't plan to do much night flying anyway. Do you preflight check all the lights and wig/wag function? (This is rhetorical. If not, then how do you not know whether a light has burned out, a more likely event that losing a relay, I think. I would check light function only if I thought I would have the potential to use them during a flight. Obviously, if you use wig-wag as a safety feature during normal flights, one would check proper operation before takeoff.) Regards, Doug Windhorn ----- Original Message ----- From: tomcostanza@comcast.net To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, 16 July, 2006 6:53 Subject: Landing lights & relays What is your opinion of using mechanical relays to implement wig-wag flashing of landing lights? I would like to use a rotary switch with the following pattern: off, wig-wag, landing, taxi (4 positions). Otherwise I would need to use 3 toggle switches and a complicated switch operation. Using transistors would lower the voltage at the light by about 1.5 volts. To confuse the issue further, I have wingtip landing and taxi lights (1 landing and 1 taxi on each wing) 4 lights total. Using relays would solve my problems, but I don't know the longevity of the relay. What are your thoughts? Thanks, Tom Costanza RV-7A Fuselage <html><body> <DIV><B><PRE>Doug,</PRE><PRE>That's reasonable as long as the relay doesn't go South every couple months.<BR>I don't spend all my time replacing relays. The other concern was RFI.<BR>I also don't want to listen to the lights flashing or have them interfere<BR>with navigation.</PRE><PRE>Thanks for the reply. If you have any further thoughts, I would be very interested.</PRE><PRE>Regards,<BR>Tom Costanza</PRE><PRE>&nbsp;</PRE><PRE>Tom, One way to look at this is that if landing/taxi lights (nor wig/wag) are not required for night flight, so what does it matter if the relay fails? One landing without the benefit of them? I would just get a quality relay and let the longevity concern take care of itself - don't plan to do much night flying anyway. Do you preflight check all the lights and wig/wag function? (This is rhetorical. If not, then how do you not know whether a light has burned out, a more likely event that losing a relay, I think. I would check light function only if I thought I would have the potential to use them during a flight. Obviously, if you use wig-wag as a safety feature during normal flights, one would check proper operation before takeoff.) Regards, Doug Windhorn ----- Original Message ----- From: <A href="mailto:tomcostanza@comcast.net?subject=Re:%20Landing%20lights%20&amp;%20relays&amp;replyto=004001c6a8f6$6e628790$6602a8c0@desktop">tomcostanza@comcast.net</A> To: <A href="mailto:aeroelectric-list@matronics.com?subject=Re:%20Landing%20lights%20&amp;%20relays&amp;replyto=004001c6a8f6$6e628790$6602a8c0@desktop">aeroelectric-list@matronics.com</A> Sent: Sunday, 16 July, 2006 6:53 Subject: Landing lights &amp; relays What is your opinion of using mechanical relays to implement wig-wag flashing of landing lights? I would like to use a rotary switch with the following pattern: off, wig-wag, landing, taxi (4 positions). Otherwise I would need to use 3 toggle switches and a complicated switch operation. Using transistors would lower the voltage at the light by about 1.5 volts. To confuse the issue further, I have wingtip landing and taxi lights (1 landing and 1 taxi on each wing) 4 lights total. Using relays would solve my problems, but I don't know the longevity of the relay. What are your thoughts? Thanks, Tom Costanza RV-7A Fuselage </PRE><PRE></PRE></B> <P><!-- body="end" --></P></DIV></body></html>


    Message 21


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    Time: 03:45:59 PM PST US
    From: "Alex Balic" <alex157@pwhome.com>
    Subject: BatteryLink ACR
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alex Balic" <alex157@pwhome.com> Anyone have any experience/ comments/ problems with the Blue Sea BatteryLink ACR unit? www.bluesea.com Seems to be a good device to allow linking up/charging of 2 batteries. But I am having trouble figuring out how it could be included into the schematic utilizing the separate battery contactors- I am thinking it might simply replace the cross feed contactor? Anyone using one?


    Message 22


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    Time: 03:49:15 PM PST US
    From: tomcostanza@comcast.net
    Subject: Re: Landing lights & relays
    Hi Ken, That's the configuration I'll have. I started with that approach, but wanted to keep the switch count to a minimum. I guess you pay your money and take your choice. I ordered some spare bulbs and think I'll do an experiment and see what happens. Thanks for the reply. Regards, Tom Costanza Not sure how many lights you have Tom. I have a landing light and a taxi light in both wingtips. Four lamps total. One toggle switch turns on both landing lights. Another toggle switch turns on both taxi lights. A third toggle switch selects whether the two taxi lights stay on steady or wig wag when the taxi lights are on. No relays, diodes, or transistors. Common cheap toggle switches and an off the shelf cheap automotive mechancal flasher (OK I guess there is a relay inside the flasher ;) Seemed pretty simple to me. For daytime operation all I ever touch is the taxi light switch. Ken tomcostanza@comcast.net wrote: > What is your opinion of using mechanical relays to implement wig-wag > flashing of landing lights? > > I would like to use a rotary switch with the following pattern: off, > wig-wag, landing, taxi (4 positions). Otherwise I would need to use 3 > toggle switches and a complicated switch operation. Using transistors > would lower the voltage at the light by about 1.5 volts. To confuse > the issue further, I have wingtip landing and taxi lights (1 landing > and 1 taxi on each wing) 4 lights total. Using relays would solve my > problems, but I don't know the longevity of the relay. > > What are your thoughts? > > Thanks, > > Tom Costanza > > RV-7A Fuselage > <html><body> <DIV>Hi Ken,</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>That's the configuration I'll have.&nbsp; I started with that approach, but wanted to keep the switch count to a minimum.&nbsp; I guess you pay your money and take your choice.&nbsp; I ordered some spare bulbs and think I'll do an experiment and see what happens.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Thanks for the reply.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Regards,</DIV> <DIV>Tom Costanza</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Not sure how many lights you have Tom. I have a landing light and a taxi <BR>light in both wingtips. Four lamps total. One toggle switch turns on <BR>both landing lights. Another toggle switch turns on both taxi lights. A <BR>third toggle switch selects whether the two taxi lights stay on steady <BR>or wig wag when the taxi lights are on. No relays, diodes, or <BR>transistors. Common cheap toggle switches and an off the shelf cheap <BR>automotive mechancal flasher (OK I guess there is a relay inside the <BR>flasher ;)&nbsp;&nbsp; Seemed pretty simple to me. For daytime operation all I <BR>ever touch is the taxi light switch.<BR>Ken<BR><BR><A href="mailto:tomcostanza@comcast.net?subject=Re:%20Landing%20lights%20&amp;%20relays&amp;replyto=44BA83C9.9080404@albedo.net">tomcostanza@comcast.net</A> wrote:<BR><BR>&gt; What is your opinion of using mechanical relays to implement wig-wag <BR>&gt; flashing of landing lights?<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; I would like to use a rotary switch with the f ollowing pattern: off, <BR>&gt; wig-wag, landing, taxi (4 positions). Otherwise I would need to use 3 <BR>&gt; toggle switches and a complicated switch operation. Using transistors <BR>&gt; would lower the voltage at the light by about 1.5 volts. To confuse <BR>&gt; the issue further, I have wingtip landing and taxi lights (1 landing <BR>&gt; and 1 taxi on each wing) 4 lights total. Using relays would solve my <BR>&gt; problems, but I don't know the longevity of the relay.<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; What are your thoughts?<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; Thanks,<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; Tom Costanza<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; RV-7A Fuselage<BR>&gt;<BR><PRE></PRE> <P><!-- body="end" --></P></DIV></body></html>


    Message 23


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    Time: 04:56:08 PM PST US
    From: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com>
    Subject: Re: BatteryLink ACR
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian-yak@lloyd.com> On Jul 16, 2006, at 6:44 PM, Alex Balic wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alex Balic" > <alex157@pwhome.com> > > Anyone have any experience/ comments/ problems with the Blue Sea > BatteryLink > ACR unit? www.bluesea.com Seems to be a good device to allow linking > up/charging of 2 batteries. But I am having trouble figuring out > how it > could be included into the schematic utilizing the separate battery > contactors- I am thinking it might simply replace the cross feed > contactor? > Anyone using one? I have installed them in boats for other people. Basically it replaces your cross-feed contactor and parallels your batteries when the bus voltage is above 13.5V indicating that the alternator is on- line. Once the voltage drops to about 13V it drops out and separates the batteries. On a boat it is supposed to allow the charging of the engine-starting battery and the house battery at the same time but isolating the engine-starting battery once you are running on battery power to prevent house loads from running the start battery down and preventing you from starting your engine. I prefer the AmplePower battery isolator eliminator. It is a DC/DC converter that is designed to charge the start battery from the house bank using a three-phase temperature-compensated charging regimen. It keeps the start battery on a proper float charge to ensure it is fully charged. The only problem is that it is limited to 5A draw but that is not a limitation when just charging the start battery. Of course, this is for a boat electrical system where it is normal to run from battery power. Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way brian-yak AT lloyd DOT com Folsom, CA 95630 +1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax) I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . . Antoine de Saint-Exupry


    Message 24


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    Time: 06:30:59 PM PST US
    From: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
    Subject: Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio
    I'll take a look at them next time I get out there and I think the mike and headphone jacks are fitted correctly. If they weren't, wouldn't I have a problem all the time? In fact, would they work at all? For example, even when using the radio's internal VOX intercom system wouldn't I get a bad signal and wouldn't there be a lot of noise from other components whey they are turned on? The VOX works very well (except that when the strobes are on, yes, you hear them loud and clear as well). I haven't noticed any other electrical component causing a problem that's audible and the radio itself hasn't seemed to bother any other electrical system. Today I temporarily installed my ELTs antenna on my radio and it didn't help or seem to hurt from what I could tell on the ground experimenting. -------------- Original message -------------- > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd > > > On Jul 15, 2006, at 9:54 PM, lucky wrote: > > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > > > > I have two "comm" issues that I haven't been able to debug to > > completion yet. I'm using an Xcom 760 radio with their pre-made > > harness. > > > > 1) I still hear my strobes in my headset even when they are > > grounded with the radio ground and even when I put power noise > > filters on. However, the Radio Shack noise filters reference on > > Bob's web site were reported to me to be no longer carried by > > them. So I used the only ones I could find locally which were sold > > by Pep Boys and the capacitor was 4700 uF instead of 2200 uF like > > Radio Shack apparently was. > > Make sure your mic and headphone jacks are insulated from the > airframe. Use fiber insulating washers between the jack and the panel. > > The 4700 uF cap is fine as it will have about twice the filtering of > a 2200 uF cap. OTOH, if all your filter is is a capacitor, it will > have almost no effect. You also need a choke in series with the power > lead like this: > > fuseblock ---------[choke]----+-------->[radio] > [capacitor] > v > ground > > Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way > brian-yak AT lloyd DOT com Folsom, CA 95630 > +1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax) > > I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . . > Antoine de Saint-Exupry > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > <html><body> <DIV>I'll take a look at them next time I get out there and I think&nbsp;the mike and headphone jacks&nbsp;are fitted correctly.&nbsp; If they weren't, wouldn't I have a problem all the time? In fact, would they work at all?&nbsp; For example, even&nbsp;when using the radio's internal VOX intercom system wouldn't I get a bad signal and wouldn't there be a lot of noise from other components whey they are turned on?&nbsp; The VOX works very well (except that when the strobes are on, yes, you hear them loud and clear as well).&nbsp; I haven't noticed any other electrical component causing a problem that's audible and the radio itself hasn't seemed to bother any other electrical system.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Today I temporarily installed my ELTs antenna on my radio and it didn't help or seem to hurt from what I could tell on the ground experimenting.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: Brian Lloyd &lt;brian-yak@lloyd.com&gt; <BR><BR>&gt; --&gt; AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <BRIAN-YAK@LLOYD.COM><BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; On Jul 15, 2006, at 9:54 PM, lucky wrote: <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; &gt; --&gt; AeroElectric-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) <BR>&gt; &gt; <BR>&gt; &gt; I have two "comm" issues that I haven't been able to debug to <BR>&gt; &gt; completion yet. I'm using an Xcom 760 radio with their pre-made <BR>&gt; &gt; harness. <BR>&gt; &gt; <BR>&gt; &gt; 1) I still hear my strobes in my headset even when they are <BR>&gt; &gt; grounded with the radio ground and even when I put power noise <BR>&gt; &gt; filters on. However, the Radio Shack noise filters reference on <BR>&gt; &gt; Bob's web site were reported to me to be no longer carried by <BR>&gt; &gt; them. So I used the only ones I could find locally which were sold <BR>&gt; &gt; by Pep Boys and the capacitor was 4700 uF instead of 2200 uF like <BR>&gt; &gt; Radio Shack apparently was. <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; Make sure your mic and headphone jacks are insulated from the <BR>&gt; airframe. Use fiber insulating washers between the jack and the panel. <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; The 4700 uF cap is fine as it will have about twice the filtering of <BR>&gt; a 2200 uF cap. OTOH, if all your filter is is a capacitor, it will <BR>&gt; have almost no effect. You also need a choke in series with the power <BR>&gt; lead like this: <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; fuseblock ---------[choke]----+--------&gt;[radio] <BR>&gt; | <BR>&gt; [capacitor] <BR>&gt; | <BR>&gt; v <BR>&gt; ground <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; Brian Lloyd 361 Catterline Way <BR>&gt; brian-yak AT lloyd DOT com Folsom, CA 95630 <BR>&gt; +1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax) <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . . <BR>&gt; Antoine de Sa http:


    Message 25


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    Time: 07:14:21 PM PST US
    From: Hopperdhh@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio
    Lucky, Did you check to see if the antenna ground is grounded to the skin? Dan


    Message 26


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    Time: 07:32:43 PM PST US
    From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
    Subject: braided bonding straps
    I know I can order these to a pre-set length, but I've removed probably 2.5' of braid shield from some RG-58 and wondering what all I can do with it. I know I can use attach a connector and use it as a circuit ground, but I'm wondering if it will also work for some of these static charge installations: aileron to wing, flap to wing, elevator to HS; and some of the heftier installations: engine to firewall stud, battery negative post to airframe, etc. Rob Wright RV-10


    Message 27


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    Time: 07:59:43 PM PST US
    From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
    Subject: Re: microphone noise
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net> Thank you Charlie and Barry for your thoughts. It seems that it is cockpit noise that the mic is picking up. Interestingly I have a flighttech intercom which uses a hot mic and processes the mic audio to remove the cockpit noise from the intercom. That works well and there is no noise in the intercom. However when transmitting, the mic signal (and noise) goes directly to the radio and is transmitted regardless of whether the intercom is on or off.. Speaking loudly helps for the time being ;) Ken Charlie England wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England > <ceengland@bellsouth.net> > > Ken wrote: > >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net> >> >> Good day. >> >> I've tried a couple of headsets but I have a lot of static whenever I >> key the transmit button with the headset microphone plugged in. I can >> hear it on my headset and it is being transmitted. No static if I key >> it with the mic unplugged. So it would seem that the mic is picking >> up cockpit noise. However clasping my hand over the boom mic or >> changing its orientation does not change the static which seems to >> suggest it is not cockpit noise. Any suggestions? >> >> This is an Icomm A-200 radio and an intercom but bypassing the >> intercom with its "pilot/all" switch doesn't change anything. The >> headset jacks are mounted in a plastic box. Separate shielded wires >> are used for the mic and the earphones with the shields carrying the >> grounds. >> >> thanks >> Ken > > > If you have a noisy cockpit, covering the mic with your hand probably > won't make much difference. > > Is it electronic static or cockpit noise? > > Does it change in pitch with engine rpm? (ignition or alternator) > Is it quiet it you key the mic with the master & all accessories on > but without the engine running? (cockpit noise) > > If it's there with the engine & all other accessories off, you might > have radio problems. > > If it's there but quieter & no pitch change with the engine idling, > it's probably cockpit noise.


    Message 28


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    Time: 08:23:29 PM PST US
    From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: microphone noise
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net> Ken wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net> > > Thank you Charlie and Barry for your thoughts. > > It seems that it is cockpit noise that the mic is picking up. > Interestingly I have a flighttech intercom which uses a hot mic and > processes the mic audio to remove the cockpit noise from the intercom. > That works well and there is no noise in the intercom. However when > transmitting, the mic signal (and noise) goes directly to the radio > and is transmitted regardless of whether the intercom is on or off.. > Speaking loudly helps for the time being ;) > > Ken <snipped> Check with the headset maker on whether the mic has a gain control (usually a screwdriver-adjust miniature potentiometer in the mic itself). Also ask the comm radio mfgr the same question; there may be a mic amplifier gain control in the radio (also a screwdriver adjustment) as well. You can achieve better *system* signal to noise ratio by lowering the mic gain & keeping it as close to your lips as possible. Lowering the gain lowers the noise volume & keeping the mic close raises the signal volume. Result: better system signal to noise ratio.


    Message 29


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    Time: 08:50:39 PM PST US
    From: "europa flugzeug fabrik" <n3eu@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "europa flugzeug fabrik" <n3eu@comcast.net> This sounds like two separate problems. I wouldnt discount the fact that the strobe noise heard in audio is coming from the 14V power supply to the comm. The hint is in more noise heard when you xmit, but youre listening to sidetone, not regular receive audio. That circuit (potentially part of what modulates the RF signal when you talk) may be fed by a power-supply circuit within the XCOM which is inadequately filtered. Nor is the power supply for receive all that great either, as described. So, add what XCOM forgot. A external filter needs an inductor (choke), in addition to a capacitor, as explained by Brian. If the Pep Boys item has a choke, it may not be adequate. A big capacitor alone cannot filter high-frequency or sharp-spike noise too well, nor will value matter that much. I fixed a noisy (via alternator) audio panel with a choke from a bunch of wound toroid cores from a surplus electronic junk store. I used the one which worked best, probably one with a lot of turns. Added a cap of arbitrary value (the one in the audio panel wasnt very big), and all was well. Its possible a toroid donut is superior to a big transformer-like choke, which I think Radio Shacks version was like. Antennas are reciprocal, and you dont say how well you receive. If you can receive within spec, you can xmit. At around 3500 AGL, with reasonably flat terrain in between, you should hear airliners gettin vectored down low at a big airport about 100 miles away. Even 75 is passable, so then the problem is not in coax or antenna. Leaving the XCOM as culprit on weak xmit. RG-400 is 50-ohm, and will work fine. Though not superior enough (except longevity in service) for fixing VHF problems. Fred F. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=47745#47745


    Message 30


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    Time: 08:53:48 PM PST US
    From: "Steve James" <stevesrv7@gmail.com>
    Subject: Main bus wire feed
    I was reviewing the Z diagrams in Bob's book and am curious about the circuit protection coming into the cockpit from the battery contactor. There is an ANL fuse shown between the alternator and the batt contactor, but there is no fuse on the (typically) 6 or 8 ga wire coming from the batt contactor into the cockpit. What is the reason to not protect such a large wire as it goes through the firewall? I'm sure Bob has thought this through, I just don't know the reasoning behind it and am hoping someone here might know. Thanks. Steve


    Message 31


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    Time: 08:57:40 PM PST US
    From: "europa flugzeug fabrik" <n3eu@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "europa flugzeug fabrik" <n3eu@comcast.net> FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com wrote: > CRIMPS! You do not want a crimped coax. > > NO self-respecting RF Man will accept a CRIMPED coax. > Why do you say that? You mean a soldered, and hex-nut BNC connector fashioned by a homebuilder wil be better? On avg, don't think so. Fred F. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=47747#47747


    Message 32


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    Time: 09:02:12 PM PST US
    From: "europa flugzeug fabrik" <n3eu@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak radio
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "europa flugzeug fabrik" <n3eu@comcast.net> luckymacy(at)comcast.net wrote: > BTW, after I originally bought and installed the Xcom radio, they revised their drawing and FAQ section to REQUIRE owners install a 22,000 uF cap betwee the xcom and it's power source near the radio. If Microair said that's a fix, they're admitting to bad design of the XCOM box. At high freq, diminishing returns, that big, I propose. Simpler ways to fix. Fred F. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=47748#47748


    Message 33


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    Time: 10:51:48 PM PST US
    From: "B Tomm" <fvalarm@rapidnet.net>
    Subject: Re: Help needed: continued strobe noise & weak
    radio --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "B Tomm" <fvalarm@rapidnet.net> Lucky, It would be interesting to power the strobes from a separate battery with no shared ground to isolate the path of noise source. Bevan -----Original Message----- [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of europa flugzeug fabrik Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 9:00 PM radio --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "europa flugzeug fabrik" --> <n3eu@comcast.net> luckymacy(at)comcast.net wrote: > BTW, after I originally bought and installed the Xcom radio, they revised their drawing and FAQ section to REQUIRE owners install a 22,000 uF cap betwee the xcom and it's power source near the radio. If Microair said that's a fix, they're admitting to bad design of the XCOM box. At high freq, diminishing returns, that big, I propose. Simpler ways to fix. Fred F. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=47748#47748




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