Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:00 AM - Re: Magneto P leads (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
2. 06:53 AM - Re: Illuminated DPST Toggle Switches for Audio sources (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
3. 08:15 AM - Re: Illuminated DPST Toggle Switches for Audio (Sam Marlow)
4. 08:28 AM - Re: Illuminated DPST Toggle Switches for Audio ()
5. 09:01 AM - Re: Illuminated DPST Toggle Switch- Whoops (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
6. 09:54 AM - Re: Magneto P leads (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 02:52 PM - Heated pitot tube connections (William Crook)
8. 03:31 PM - Re: Heated pitot tube connections (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
9. 06:04 PM - Magneto P leads ()
10. 06:04 PM - Re: Heated pitot tube connections (Bob McCallum)
11. 07:20 PM - Re: Heated pitot tube connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 07:20 PM - VHF antenna mounting (William Gill)
13. 07:30 PM - Re: Heated pitot tube connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 07:53 PM - Re: Heated pitot tube connections (B Tomm)
15. 07:58 PM - Re: VHF antenna mounting (Jeff Moreau)
16. 08:14 PM - Re: VHF antenna mounting (William Gill)
17. 08:57 PM - Re: Heated pitot tube connections (DonVS)
18. 09:29 PM - Re: Heated pitot tube connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Magneto P leads |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 7/24/06 1:55:30 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net writes:
[sniped]
> My question has to
> do with grounding the P lead out on magneto which is what lectric Bob
> recommends for lowest system noise. I assume that the fiber washer is
there
> to keep the P lead terminal from grounding the threaded stud to the "shiny
> metal nut" that surrounds the plastic that the stud projects out of. If
so,
> can I use two ring terminals on the coax, one with a much larger ring
placed
> under the fiber washer which will serve as the return grounding path and
> then place a smaller ring terminal (connected to the other wire in the
> coax)on top of the fiber washer (which is on top of the larger ring
terminal
> contacting the shiny metal nut) under the nut that goes on the stud and not
> have to worry about magneto grounding somewhere else on the engine? I'm
> just trying to not have to strip a whole bunch of shield off the P lead for
> grounding at a separate location and this looks like it should work but I
> know nothing about magnetos so I'm not sure if my hypothesis is correct. I
> hope you can decipher what I trying to say. Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Stringing wire (still)
===========================================
Dean:
Simple answer is NO!
DO NOT TOUCH THE FIBER WASHER OF THE MAG.
You will be sorry ... Very sorry.
There is a Ground screw not very far from the Fiber washer - Use that. That
ground screw is for the Shield.
I don't know how you can ground the 'P' Lead anywhere else than at the Mag
Switch.
Sure you could install a relay or solid-state device under the cowl right
next to the Mag to keep your leads short but the simple and what I feel is the
proper solution is just to use basic mil-spec shielded wire ... Connect the
center lead to the center screw of the Mag and the shielded lead to the case
ground. YES, you are correct, keep the exposed/stripped wires as short as
possible. BUT! Don't stress the wires.
The other end of the shielded wire is connected to the Mag Switch(s). The
Switch(s) in the RUN position OPENS the Ground between the center lead and the
Ground side of the Mag Switch(s). The shielded wire is there for noise
suppression. It is grounded at BOTH ends, Mag and Switch(s).
Maybe I'm getting word picky but you do not STRIP the shielding from the wire.
You separate the shield and center conductor. And there is a trick in doing
that so that 'not a single shield wire strand becomes broken'.
Trick - It is called the BEAST trick.
1 - Determine how much conductor and shield you will need so there is NO
strain. Of course short wires are better, but not so short that you have a broken
wire and a Hot Mag.
2 - This is the hard part. Remove the jacket from the wire - This is done by
bending the wire back 90 to 180 Deg and NICKING the wire using a razor. You
do NOT need to cut down to the shield. Nick the wire, bend it and the wire
will do the rest of the job. Now remove the jacket.
3 - Get a sharp thin ~1/8" Dia. scribe - At the base of the exposed shield
use the scribe to separate the shielding exposing the center conductor. Work
the shield back and away to so you can see 4x (times) the diameter of the center
conductor.
4 - Bend the wire at the exposed area 180 Deg.
5 - Use the scribe to hook under the center conductor and pull the free end
UP and OUT of the shield.
6 - You are done ... No Nick, No stray strands - No errors. Finish the ends
which ever way you wish. Crimp on lugs are usually my choice.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third
time."
Yamashiada
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Illuminated DPST Toggle Switches for Audio sources |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 7/22/06 9:01:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
scc_ron@yahoo.com writes:
> Anybody know where I can find ON/NONE/OFF switches with independent
lighting?
> I bought several from B and C (and they were special order) that don't
> seperate the 12 volt light on the toggle from the on/off circuits I wish to
> activate. If I were to put a hot wire to the radio equipment, it would fry
> the unit I wish to activate. All I want to do is get a lighted toggle that
> tells me the other circuit in the switch is closed (ON) without also giving
> that circuit any charge. Thanks in advance.
> Ron
> N8ZD - flying in two weeks!
=========================
Ron:
An ON/NONE/OFF is the same thing as an ON/OFF (SPST).
As for the Lighted part ... That is simple ... That is part of the switch,
just a separate lug where you split the power IN to the Light and the control IN
of the switch.
They do it that way so IF you wanted the light to come ON ... ONLY when the
switch is on you simply put the jumper to the output side of the switch. Want
the light ON all the time then the jumper goes to the input side of the switch.
For me, it is more important to be able to find the switch at night than to
know if it is on or off. Switch position which I can feel tells me if it is ON
or Off.
BASIC RULE: Down or Out is OFF. If the switch is Down or pulled Out it is
Off. Not always true but most of the time.
There are some switches that change in color from ON to Off, if you want a
light indicator.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third
time."
Yamashiada
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Illuminated DPST Toggle Switches for Audio |
http://www.aerocraftparts.com/Categories.aspx?Category=38940ec0-b260-4e9f-a23c-b80ff8e89c67
Good luck,
Sam Marlow
FLYaDIVE@aol.com wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 7/22/06 9:01:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>scc_ron@yahoo.com writes:
>
>
>
>>Anybody know where I can find ON/NONE/OFF switches with independent
>>
>>
>lighting?
>
>
>> I bought several from B and C (and they were special order) that don't
>>seperate the 12 volt light on the toggle from the on/off circuits I wish to
>>activate. If I were to put a hot wire to the radio equipment, it would fry
>>the unit I wish to activate. All I want to do is get a lighted toggle that
>>tells me the other circuit in the switch is closed (ON) without also giving
>>that circuit any charge. Thanks in advance.
>> Ron
>> N8ZD - flying in two weeks!
>>
>>
>=========================
>Ron:
>
>An ON/NONE/OFF is the same thing as an ON/OFF (SPST).
>As for the Lighted part ... That is simple ... That is part of the switch,
>just a separate lug where you split the power IN to the Light and the control
IN
>of the switch.
>
>They do it that way so IF you wanted the light to come ON ... ONLY when the
>switch is on you simply put the jumper to the output side of the switch. Want
>the light ON all the time then the jumper goes to the input side of the switch.
>
>For me, it is more important to be able to find the switch at night than to
>know if it is on or off. Switch position which I can feel tells me if it is ON
>or Off.
>
>BASIC RULE: Down or Out is OFF. If the switch is Down or pulled Out it is
>Off. Not always true but most of the time.
>
>There are some switches that change in color from ON to Off, if you want a
>light indicator.
>
>Barry
>"Chop'd Liver"
>
>"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third
>time."
>Yamashiada
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Illuminated DPST Toggle Switches for Audio |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> >>Anybody know where I can find ON/NONE/OFF switches with independent
> >>
> >>
> >lighting?
Ron,
Check with your local Carling Technologies distributer. Carling makes the LT series
of toggle switches. You can get them with a single color or two different
colors to decern between ON and OFF. See
http://toggle-switches.carlingtech.com/illuminated-toggle-switch__48.asp
http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/CarlingSW_LT.pdf
They also make several series of lighted rocker switches. See
http://rocker-switches.carlingtech.com/index.asp
Charlie Kuss
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Illuminated DPST Toggle Switch- Whoops |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
-> AeroElectric-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 7/22/06 9:01:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
scc_ron@yahoo.com writes:
> Anybody know where I can find ON/NONE/OFF switches with independent
lighting?
> I bought several from B and C (and they were special order) that don't
> seperate the 12 volt light on the toggle from the on/off circuits I wish to
> activate. If I were to put a hot wire to the radio equipment, it would fry
> the unit I wish to activate. All I want to do is get a lighted toggle that
> tells me the other circuit in the switch is closed (ON) without also giving
> that circuit any charge. Thanks in advance.
> Ron
> N8ZD - flying in two weeks!
=========================
Ron:
An ON/NONE/OFF is the same thing as an ON/OFF (SPST).
Ron:
I used the term SPST ... It should have been DPST.
The procedure and everything else is still the same.
Why do you need a DPST?
I am guessing ... Current handling capabilities?
If not, then you can tie two or more devices to the same switch (SPST).
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third
time."
Yamashiada
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Magneto P leads |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 01:39 AM 7/24/2006 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
><dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
>I'm wondering about connecting the P leads at the magneto. Looking at the
>top of the (Slick) magneto I removed the nut and star washer and found an
>insulating fiber washer. Looking under the washer, there is the threaded
>stud which projects from a piece of white plastic that is in turn surrounded
>by a shiny piece of metal that looks like a large nut. My question has to
>do with grounding the P lead out on magneto which is what lectric Bob
>recommends for lowest system noise. I assume that the fiber washer is there
>to keep the P lead terminal from grounding the threaded stud to the "shiny
>metal nut" that surrounds the plastic that the stud projects out of. If so,
>can I use two ring terminals on the coax, one with a much larger ring placed
>under the fiber washer which will serve as the return grounding path and
>then place a smaller ring terminal (connected to the other wire in the
>coax)on top of the fiber washer (which is on top of the larger ring terminal
>contacting the shiny metal nut) under the nut that goes on the stud and not
>have to worry about magneto grounding somewhere else on the engine? I'm
>just trying to not have to strip a whole bunch of shield off the P lead for
>grounding at a separate location and this looks like it should work but I
>know nothing about magnetos so I'm not sure if my hypothesis is correct. I
>hope you can decipher what I trying to say. Thanks.
I'm not familiar with all the variations on the magneto
connection schemes . . . the safe thing to recommend is
that you not disassemble the terminal assembly beyond
the removal of a nut or screw intended to accept the p-lead
connection.
Most of my readers have reported reasonably handy screws
either on the mag house (or they've gone all the way
down to the magneto mounting studs) to find a handy
ground for the p-lead shields.
Getting long leads out from under a shield is pretty
easy. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/shldwire.html
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 7
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Subject: | Heated pitot tube connections |
I have a standard heated pitot tube. The instructions call for an AN-3115 connector
to terminate the power and ground leads. Alas (I love using that word...),
I don't have this little gem. Looking on the B&C site, I don't see anything
resembling what I need. AS&S has the phenolic connector, but it is really
pricey at $88.50. The terminals are sinply two straight rods extending from the
pitot tube chassis, and I think I could craft some female spade fittings to
slip on, and securing it with some RTV. Obviously, it would be a sad day if
these two leads were to short, but all of these $88.50's keep adding up. Sometimes,
when the widget looks very straightfoward, I tend to try and get cheap
;-)
Thoughts?
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Heated pitot tube connections |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 7/24/06 5:55:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
will@willcrook.com writes:
> The terminals are sinply two straight rods extending from the pitot tube
> chassis, and I think I could craft some female spade fittings to slip on,
and
> securing it with some RTV. Obviously, it would be a sad day if these two
> leads were to short, but all of these $88.50's keep adding up. Sometimes,
> when the widget looks very straightfoward, I tend to try and get cheap ;-)
>
> Thoughts?
==================================
Will:
I like the way you think. You will have to do a little hunting but there are
round slip on connectors just like the spade design but only one half and
larger in size to handle the current. The ceramic type is exactly that but with
a ceramic case.
As for them shorting or causing a problem ... Distance is always a great
insulator and you could also make one from a small piece of Teflon ... If you go
this way you will need something that can handle the heat.
Will, you said something that caught my eye ... Ground leads ... Do not use
the planes ground as your return line. Run a separate wire so that you have B+
and Neg wires going out there. THEN if you wish ground the Negative out at
the wing tip. This will greatly help with other wiring such as your Strobe and
Nav Lights. Most problems over time are related to a poor ground.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third
time."
Yamashiada
Message 9
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|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <bakerocb@cox.net>
7/24/2006
Responding to an AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: "DEAN
PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Hello Dean, I was pleased to see your question on the list. It shows that
you have an inquisitive mind and are thinking, and it shows that you are
willing to seek out additional information. Your question creates an
opportunity for a bit of information to be exchanged that may benefit others
as well.
On the case of your Slick magneto very near the P (primary coil) lead stud
is a threaded hole. Beside this threaded hole are the raised letters GND.
This is an abbreviation for the word GROUND.
When the magneto comes new from Slick there is a Phillips head machine screw
threaded into this hole. The purpose of this screw is to provide for a
grounding contact to the magneto case.
Accepted procedure is to comb out a length of shielding from the magneto end
of the shielded P lead, twist the shield wires together, and crimp a ring
terminal of the appropriate size on the end of the combed out and twisted
together shield wires. The shield ring terminal is then fastened to the
magneto case by the aforementioned GND screw.
The center lead of the P lead wire also gets a ring terminal crimped on to
it and this ring terminal is fastened to the P lead stud such that it does
not contact the magneto case in any way.
On the cockpit end of the P lead the shield and the center wire are
connected to the terminals of a switch such that when the switch is in the
OFF position the shield and the center wire are connected together. This
grounds out the magneto back to its case and prevents it from sparking the
spark plugs. When the ignition switch is in the ON position the shield wire
and the center wire of the P lead are separated from each other and the
magneto can spark the plugs when properly rotated.
The term P lead is a bit of a misnomer because the lead does not connect
directly to the primary coil of the magneto. Instead the P lead connects to
a stud coming out of a capacitor (sometimes called a condenser in the older
manuals) in the primary coil circuitry. Also in the primary coil circuitry
are the magneto points. The capacitor in this circuit serves to suppress
arcing between the points when they are being opened. The stud on the end of
the capacitor also serves as a convenient point to ground out the primary
coil output via the P lead connection back to a switch as described above
when one does not want the magneto to be firing the spark plugs.
Looking forward to your next question.
OC
<<I'm wondering about connecting the P leads at the magneto. Looking at the
top of the (Slick) magneto I removed the nut and star washer and found an
insulating fiber washer. Looking under the washer, there is the threaded
stud which projects from a piece of white plastic that is in turn surrounded
by a shiny piece of metal that looks like a large nut. My question has to
do with grounding the P lead out on magneto which is what lectric Bob
recommends for lowest system noise. I assume that the fiber washer is there
to keep the P lead terminal from grounding the threaded stud to the "shiny
metal nut" that surrounds the plastic that the stud projects out of. If so,
can I use two ring terminals on the coax, one with a much larger ring placed
under the fiber washer which will serve as the return grounding path and
then place a smaller ring terminal (connected to the other wire in the
coax)on top of the fiber washer (which is on top of the larger ring terminal
contacting the shiny metal nut) under the nut that goes on the stud and not
have to worry about magneto grounding somewhere else on the engine? I'm
just trying to not have to strip a whole bunch of shield off the P lead for
grounding at a separate location and this looks like it should work but I
know nothing about magnetos so I'm not sure if my hypothesis is correct. I
hope you can decipher what I trying to say. Thanks. Dean Psiropoulos>>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Heated pitot tube connections |
Barry;
I may be mistaken, but I believe this advice on grounding is totally
contrary to what has been taught on this list for the past several
years. My understanding of Lectric Bob's advice and lessons on
grounding, are, that local grounds are OK for such things as pitot heat,
position lights etc. but that running a ground wire to a wingtip for an
accessory, as you suggest, and then grounding it there as well is a
no-no as this is likely to create a ground loop. Grounds should be local
OR run to the "forest of tabs" ground point on the firewall. They should
not be both for any single item. (and local grounds are only used for
certain specific items as described in "The Connection".)
Bob McC
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 6:27 PM
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 7/24/06 5:55:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> will@willcrook.com writes:
>
> > The terminals are sinply two straight rods extending from the pitot
tube
> > chassis, and I think I could craft some female spade fittings to
slip on,
> and
> > securing it with some RTV. Obviously, it would be a sad day if
these two
> > leads were to short, but all of these $88.50's keep adding up.
Sometimes,
> > when the widget looks very straightfoward, I tend to try and get
cheap ;-)
> >
> > Thoughts?
>
=========================
=========
> Will:
>
> I like the way you think. You will have to do a little hunting but
there are
> round slip on connectors just like the spade design but only one half
and
> larger in size to handle the current. The ceramic type is exactly
that but with
> a ceramic case.
> As for them shorting or causing a problem ... Distance is always a
great
> insulator and you could also make one from a small piece of Teflon ...
If you go
> this way you will need something that can handle the heat.
>
> Will, you said something that caught my eye ... Ground leads ... Do
not use
> the planes ground as your return line. Run a separate wire so that
you have B+
> and Neg wires going out there. THEN if you wish ground the Negative
out at
> the wing tip. This will greatly help with other wiring such as your
Strobe and
> Nav Lights. Most problems over time are related to a poor ground.
>
> Barry
> "Chop'd Liver"
>
> "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the
third
> time."
> Yamashiada
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Heated pitot tube connections |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 08:57 PM 7/24/2006 -0400, you wrote:
>Barry;
>
>I may be mistaken, but I believe this advice on grounding is totally
>contrary to what has been taught on this list for the past several
>years. My understanding of Lectric Bob's advice and lessons on grounding,
>are, that local grounds are OK for such things as pitot heat, position
>lights etc. but that running a ground wire to a wingtip for an accessory,
>as you suggest, and then grounding it there as well is a no-no as this is
>likely to create a ground loop. Grounds should be local OR run to the
>"forest of tabs" ground point on the firewall. They should not be both for
>any single item. (and local grounds are only used for certain specific
>items as described in "The Connection".)
>
>Bob McC
This needs some clarification. "Ground Loops" ALWAYS exist when
multiple accessories ground to DIFFERENT parts of the airplane.
Ground loops are not always evil. The problems arise when
potential victims (radios, audio systems, instrumentation,
etc) SHARE the airframe (or distributed ground system in a
composite) with potential antagonists like alternators. Alternators
do not become antagonists until they're asked to supply substantial
currents for the purpose of running high power accessories like landing
lights and pitot heaters. Discharged batteries are also "high power"
loads while being replenished. I had a builder complain about alternator
noise in a system that went away after a few minutes of flight . . .
his battery was the major antagonistic contributor to ground loop
noise that went away when the battery assumed recharge.
Now, one may ground all the antagonists you wish to the
airframe or distributed ground 'cause all they can do is
yell at each other and as long as they a deaf . . .
ist macht nicht.
The things that are vulnerable are immune from any yelling
going on elsewhere as long as their respective and collective
grounds DO NOT participate in the noisy ground loop. Best yet,
if all potential victims share a single point (or slightly
distributed single point as shown in the audio systems
chapter) then there will be order in the world.
Hence the suggestion about local grounds. Notice that all the
devices called out are not potential victims and they participate
only in the generation of noise because they're high power
loads for the noisiest device in the airplane, the alternator.
So you may ground them at any convenient location for good
bonding without regard to potential noise issues.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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Subject: | VHF antenna mounting |
Hello All,
I'm mounting two VHF bent whip antennas on the belly of an RV-7. Where
can I find information pertaining to doubler requirement? Also, a cork
gasket/seal is installed between the Comant antenna base and the
fuselage skin - is the antenna base grounded to the fuselage via the
mounting screws since the cork seal insulates the antenna base? Thanks.
Bill Gill
RV-7 wiring
Lee's Summit, MO
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Heated pitot tube connections |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 02:44 PM 7/24/2006 -0700, you wrote:
>I have a standard heated pitot tube. The instructions call for an AN-3115
>connector to terminate the power and ground leads. Alas (I love using
>that word...), I don't have this little gem. Looking on the B&C site, I
>don't see anything resembling what I need. AS&S has the phenolic
>connector, but it is really pricey at $88.50. The terminals are sinply
>two straight rods extending from the pitot tube chassis, and I think I
>could craft some female spade fittings to slip on, and securing it with
>some RTV. Obviously, it would be a sad day if these two leads were to
>short, but all of these $88.50's keep adding up. Sometimes, when the
>widget looks very straightfoward, I tend to try and get cheap ;-)
>
>Thoughts?
I have a client who asked me to look into alternative sources
for the AN3115 connector. I've studied some of the connection
science issues and looked at the processes available. Problem
is that the connection at the pitot tube is subject to elevated
operating temperatures + extended 3x inrush currents. Building
a really GOOD AN3115 is not a trivial task.
Problem is that this is such a low volume part that by the time
we tool up to build a decent part, the non-recurring costs
are breathtaking.
If it were my airplane (and if I were supplying pitot tubes) I
would silver solder 12", 14AWG Teflon pigtails onto the pitot
tube pins. Cover the joint in Teflon heat shrink and then make
connections to the airplane at the ends of the pigtails with
some attractive, robust splice. PIDG knife splices covered with
heat shrink tickle my fancy.
Very straightforward, very cheap.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 14
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Subject: | Heated pitot tube connections |
What about soldering wire female leads to the terminals.
Bevan
RV7A finish kit
_____
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Crook
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 2:44 PM
I have a standard heated pitot tube. The instructions call for an AN-3115
connector to terminate the power and ground leads. Alas (I love using that
word...), I don't have this little gem. Looking on the B&C site, I don't
see anything resembling what I need. AS&S has the phenolic connector, but
it is really pricey at $88.50. The terminals are sinply two straight rods
extending from the pitot tube chassis, and I think I could craft some female
spade fittings to slip on, and securing it with some RTV. Obviously, it
would be a sad day if these two leads were to short, but all of these
$88.50's keep adding up. Sometimes, when the widget looks very
straightfoward, I tend to try and get cheap ;-)
Thoughts?
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: VHF antenna mounting |
What position are you mounting them in. I am getting ready for bent
whips on the belly of my RV8A. I was wondering how close together
you are mounting them.
Are they side=by side, or in line with the centerline of the
fuselage. Any info would be appreciated.
Jeff Moreau
Virginia Beach, VA
On Jul 24, 2006, at 10:15 PM, William Gill wrote:
> Hello All,
>
>
> I=92m mounting two VHF bent whip antennas on the belly of an RV-7.
> Where can I find information pertaining to doubler requirement?
> Also, a cork gasket/seal is installed between the Comant antenna
> base and the fuselage skin ' is the antenna base grounded to the
> fuselage via the mounting screws since the cork seal insulates the
> antenna base? Thanks.
>
>
> Bill Gill
>
> RV-7 wiring
>
> Lee=92s Summit, MO
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | VHF antenna mounting |
Hello Jeff,
I'm mounting them side by side.they are about 32" apart.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Moreau
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 9:56 PM
What position are you mounting them in. I am getting ready for bent
whips on the belly of my RV8A. I was wondering how close together you
are mounting them.
Are they side=by side, or in line with the centerline of the fuselage.
Any info would be appreciated.
Jeff Moreau
Virginia Beach, VA
On Jul 24, 2006, at 10:15 PM, William Gill wrote:
Hello All,
I'm mounting two VHF bent whip antennas on the belly of an RV-7. Where
can I find information pertaining to doubler requirement? Also, a cork
gasket/seal is installed between the Comant antenna base and the
fuselage skin - is the antenna base grounded to the fuselage via the
mounting screws since the cork seal insulates the antenna base? Thanks.
Bill Gill
RV-7 wiring
Lee's Summit, MO
Message 17
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Subject: | Heated pitot tube connections |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 7:28 PM
snip
would silver solder 12", 14AWG Teflon pigtails onto the pitot
tube pins. Cover the joint in Teflon heat shrink and then make
connections to the airplane at the ends of the pigtails with
some attractive, robust splice. PIDG knife splices covered with
heat shrink tickle my fancy.
Very straightforward, very cheap.
Bob . . .
Bob,
Is the silver solder just for heat resistance? If I am not mistaken silver
solder is not as good a conductor as tin/lead, or is that an old wives tale?
Don
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 18
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Subject: | Heated pitot tube connections |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 08:53 PM 7/24/2006 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
>L. Nuckolls, III
>Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 7:28 PM
>
>
>snip
> would silver solder 12", 14AWG Teflon pigtails onto the pitot
> tube pins. Cover the joint in Teflon heat shrink and then make
> connections to the airplane at the ends of the pigtails with
> some attractive, robust splice. PIDG knife splices covered with
> heat shrink tickle my fancy.
>
> Very straightforward, very cheap.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>Bob,
>Is the silver solder just for heat resistance? If I am not mistaken silver
>solder is not as good a conductor as tin/lead, or is that an old wives tale?
>Don
Dunno . . . but solder as an electrical conductor is seldom
a performance issue irrespective of how much resistance it may
have . . . there's so little solder in the electrical path that
wide variability of conductance in various solders is insignificant.
63/37 tin/lead melts at sufficiently low temperature to be
at risk of coming loose on SOME pitot tube installations.
The tube manufacturers often recommend that pins supplied
with the AN3115 connector be connected to wires with "high
temperature solder". Silver solder is certainly not at-risk
for softening and it alloys better with the corrosion
resistant pins on the pitot tube.
Bob . . .
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