Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:53 AM - Re: Magnetic hardware? (was magnetic screwdrivers) 2 (Eric M. Jones)
2. 07:06 AM - Re: OBAM vs. ABEA (Dave N6030X)
3. 07:13 AM - Re: (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 07:16 AM - Re: 24V LED bulbs (Eric M. Jones)
5. 07:38 AM - Re: Re: Wiring Diagrams Design Software (Jon & Kathryn Hults)
6. 08:41 AM - Re: Re: Wiring Diagrams Design Software (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 11:42 AM - Re: Re: 24V LED bulbs (rd2@evenlink.com)
8. 04:39 PM - Re: Re: 24V LED bulbs (Bob White)
9. 04:50 PM - Re: 24V LED bulbs (Eric M. Jones)
10. 09:30 PM - Re: what should antenna resistance read (CardinalNSB@aol.com)
11. 09:39 PM - MP3 player and microphone input (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 09:43 PM - S704-1 (George Neal E Capt 605TES/TSI)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Magnetic hardware? (was magnetic screwdrivers) |
2
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Ron,
I think you should ignore the issue.
A hand compass will disclose a lot. Consider for example that all the steel cans
in your pantry are magnetic (Try it!). A steel tube fuselage will become magnetic
just sitting on the ramp. A ship will become magnetic just sailing along--or
can suddenly become magnetized when smacked by a wave, just a a nail can
be made magnetic when struck with a hammer.
Things can be demagnetized but this is usually only a temporary fix. Most of us
live on a magnetic planet...
Magnetic drainplugs are great. An internet search will tell you far more about
magnetism than you ever wanted to know.
As for the advice of others...If a thing CAN be magnetized, then it will become
magnetized just sitting on the shelf--so take their advice with a grain of salt.
"Hokey religions and ancient weapons are no match for a good blaster..."
--Han Solo
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55307#55307
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: OBAM vs. ABEA |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave N6030X <N6030X@DaveMorris.com>
We can quibble over the technical details of OBAM, but what Bob has
done is to apply a bit of marketing savvy to an otherwise technical endeavor.
OBAM is a marketing term. No marketing expert would EVER use the
terms "amateur" or "experimental" in a concept he was trying to sell
to the public as safe and reliable. Would you let your kid go for a
ride in some "amateur-built experimental" made by Larry, Moe and
Curly in their garage?
While I was building my "HOMEBUILT", I was reminded virtually every
day by my boss that I was doing something dangerous, and he would
provide me with a printed copy of every news story of somebody
crashing in an airplane.
In this day and age, perception is more valuable than reality. Just
look at the "V chip". There is no such thing. But in the minds of
millions of Americans, it exists, and the government created it to
help them. What a marketing coup!! Perfume is another great
example. How else could you sell a half ounce of water for over
$100? It's all in the marketing.
Changing the name of that dastardly, dangerous contraption from an
AMATEUR (unskilled) built EXPERIMENTAL (might not work) aircraft to
an "Owner Built and Maintained" is mainly for the consumption of the
PUBLIC, not the people who know that obviously the owner isn't going
to be doing ALL the work on it if he doesn't want to. We can call it
an "uncertified" if we want to. But don't let the public know.
Dave Morris
At 10:36 PM 8/16/2006, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
>At 01:28 AM 8/16/2006 -0400, you wrote:
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob McCallum"
>><robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
>>
>>Just a point of interest and my 1/2 cent input. (way less than 2 cents).
>>This thread is the first time I've seen the acronym ABEA, but I have become
>>very familiar with OBAM over the past few years on this, and other,
>>Matronics lists. I think OBAM is a much better "sell" to the general public
>>than any mention of "experimental", "homebuilt", "homemade", or "amateur".
>>All of those words tend to instil negative connotations to anyone unfamiliar
>>with our hobby. To those directly involved the semantics are irrelevant, to
>>those "outsiders" the semantics could mean all the difference between
>>acceptance, understanding, appreciation, and rejection, mistrust or fear.
>>(just a thought to keep in the back of our minds when the need for
>>terminology comes up).
>
> Exactly. Obviously, anyone may craft what ever descriptive
> terms they wish to convey meaning to a listener/reader.
> I crafted phrase "OBAM" several years ago because I didn't believe
> that our craft was well presented to the public -OR- prospective
> new builders with words like those you've cited above.
>
> My first introduction to OBAM aviation was about 1967 when
> one of the engineers at Cessna's single-engine facility
> brought his VW powered Headwind out on a Saturday morning
> when we were working overtime on some project. We all went
> out to see the airplane and watched Dick fly it away. We had
> a good laugh discussing the "toy" airplane and went back
> inside to work on "real" airplanes. 20 years later at OSH,
> I was amazed at the levels of both craftsmanship and
> technology in the amateur-built aircraft community. That
> was the year the 'Connection was conceived.
>
> In years since, we're all aware of how far we've come
> and many of us have a vision of how far we can still go,
> given the right circumstances. Part of those circumstances
> include an elevation of our craft from that of a "poor
> street urchin" amongst those who make their living
> at designing, building, selling, maintaining and
> (ugh) regulating aviation. The future is also dependent
> on public perceptions . . . for when it comes to
> regulation, those who would broaden their professional
> horizons will go to Congress for a charter claiming
> that we are loose cannons building death traps from which
> we and the public must be protected.
>
>OC wrote in an earlier post:
>
>B) People who see the term OBAM over and over begin to think that
>it is indeed only the Owner or only the Builder who may Maintain
>the aircraft. This is misleading and needs to be clarified every
>once in a while, in fact just recently on this list.
>
> I'll suggest that a fundamental attribution error
> is at work here. OBAM is not exclusive. It simply
> acknowledges the fact that the vast majority of
> participants in the OBAM aviation community are
> here because they CAN build and maintain their personal
> aircraft with an investment of sweat-equity as
> opposed hiring "certified" assistance. This is in
> stark contrast to the certificated side of the house which
> IS very exclusive were the majority of owners do
> little maintenance and no building at all.
>
>C) Use of the term OBAM causes people tend to think that every
>aircraft in our community must have been Built by the current
>Owner.
>
> How so? FAE is in play here too. Owners can both "build"
> and "maintain" for the vast majority of what needs to
> be done on the airplane.
>
>But ownership by individuals subsequent to the builder is very
>common in our community. There are some significant issues involved
>with subsequent ownership.
>
> Absolutely . . . but the only exclusion is that subsequent
> owners need to seek the occasional sprinkling of holy
> water for things that they've done. This is a tiny fraction
> of the total $time$ expended on aircraft maintenance or
> modification and does not alter the basic premise for
> which most folks choose to either build or acquire such
> aircraft.
>
> Confusing? Only for those who are mired in tradition
> and homage to regulation. I have no arguments with those
> who work in and embrace that world. I too work in that
> world but choose not to embrace it. If there is to be any future
> for small aircraft it's in the OBAM universe not the
> ABEA universe . . . and I'm pleased to explain the
> differences to anyone who is confused.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 3
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 05:25 PM 8/15/2006 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rodney Dunham"
><rdunhamtn@hotmail.com>
>
>Listers,
>
>I'm installing an XCOM760 and want to know a few things.
>
>1) Can I just leave the intercom in the "always on" configuration by tying
>the ON (pin 5) to ground??
Yeah, but this is useful only if the noise cancelling
features in your headset mics is REALLY good. The whole
idea behind headsets is better communications accuity
and noise reduction. Leaving the intercom feature
always hot is a continuously open conduit for noise.
>If so, can I then disable it by using the F/CH knob???
Don't know the details of that radio's operation. Suggest
you contact . . .
Michael Coates <info@xcomavionics.com>
and ask.
>2) Also, if I omit the switch in the backlight lead (pin 8) will the light
>go out when I turn the radio off??
>
>In other words, backlight always on but only IF the radio is on???
Most radio lighting is independent of radio operations.
I suspect not but Michael can help you on this too.
>Same last question for Becker XPDR.
Have no idea. They probably have an information contact
link on their website.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 24V LED bulbs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
LEDs have a series resistor to limit the current. That is the only difference in
LEDs run at different DC voltages. These resistors are often built-in so check
the specs. So if you have a 24V LED you need a resistor to limit the current
to what it would be at 12V. This does not have to be exact. The only caution
is that the wattage must be calculated. W=I X I X R
For example: If the 24V LED has a current of .030 Amps, and a Vf of 2V then the
needed resistor is--
R=(12-Vf)/.030 R=330 Ohms approximately. For 24V this would be:
R= (24-Vf)/.030 R=750 Ohms approximately. So you would need to add R=750-330=430
approximately (Forgive the "resistor-math") if the resistor is built into
the 12V LED.
For the 430 Ohm resistor you will need a 0.030 X 0.030 X 430 Watt resistor, or
4 Watts.
Remember, you can put two 12V LEDs in series pairs to avoid having to mess with
a resistor.
Search Google for "automotive LED". There are more every day.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55311#55311
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams Design Software |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jon & Kathryn Hults <legacy@speedband.com>
Bob,
Do you know if I can download and modify your CAD files (Z figures) with
TurboCAD 3D Macintosh?
Thanks,
Jon Hults
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams Design Software |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 07:38 AM 8/17/2006 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jon & Kathryn Hults
><legacy@speedband.com>
>
>Bob,
>
>Do you know if I can download and modify your CAD files (Z figures) with
>TurboCAD 3D Macintosh?
I presume that TurboCAD for Mac has the same features
as TurboCAD for Win . . . so my guess would be "yes".
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: 24V LED bulbs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rd2@evenlink.com
Thanks, Eric.
I was really looking for a lazy way out - direct replacement, but absent
that will have to pull out the meter and do some work :(
Rumen
do not archive
_____________________Original message __________________________
(received from Eric M. Jones; Date: 07:16 AM 8/17/2006
-0700)
________________________________________________________________
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
LEDs have a series resistor to limit the current. That is the only
difference in LEDs run at different DC voltages. These resistors are often
built-in so check the specs. So if you have a 24V LED you need a resistor
to limit the current to what it would be at 12V. This does not have to be
exact. The only caution is that the wattage must be calculated. W=I X I X R
For example: If the 24V LED has a current of .030 Amps, and a Vf of 2V then
the needed resistor is--
R=(12-Vf)/.030 R=330 Ohms approximately. For 24V this would be:
R= (24-Vf)/.030 R=750 Ohms approximately. So you would need to add
R=750-330=430 approximately (Forgive the "resistor-math") if the resistor
is built into the 12V LED.
For the 430 Ohm resistor you will need a 0.030 X 0.030 X 430 Watt resistor,
or 4 Watts.
Remember, you can put two 12V LEDs in series pairs to avoid having to mess
with a resistor.
Search Google for "automotive LED". There are more every day.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55311#55311
--
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: 24V LED bulbs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bob White <bob@bob-white.com>
On Thu, 17 Aug 2006 07:16:13 -0700
"Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>
> LEDs have a series resistor to limit the current. That is the only difference
in LEDs run at different DC voltages. These resistors are often built-in so check
the specs. So if you have a 24V LED you need a resistor to limit the current
to what it would be at 12V. This does not have to be exact. The only caution
is that the wattage must be calculated. W=I X I X R
>
> For example: If the 24V LED has a current of .030 Amps, and a Vf of 2V then the
needed resistor is--
>
> R=(12-Vf)/.030 R=330 Ohms approximately. For 24V this would be:
> R= (24-Vf)/.030 R=750 Ohms approximately. So you would need to add R=750-330=430
approximately (Forgive the "resistor-math") if the resistor is built into
the 12V LED.
>
> For the 430 Ohm resistor you will need a 0.030 X 0.030 X 430 Watt resistor, or
4 Watts.
>
> Remember, you can put two 12V LEDs in series pairs to avoid having to mess with
a resistor.
>
>
>
> Search Google for "automotive LED". There are more every day.
>
> --------
> Eric M. Jones
> www.PerihelionDesign.com
> 113 Brentwood Drive
> Southbridge, MA 01550
> (508) 764-2072
> emjones@charter.net
>
>
>
Math check. 0.03 X 0.03 = 0.0009
0.0009 X 430 = 0.387, so a 1/2 W resistor should be OK.
Bob W.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: 24V LED bulbs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Bob,
Thanks,
Yes the decimal point vanished someplace.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55372#55372
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: what should antenna resistance read |
If I remove the connector from the back of my radio and measure across the
shield and inner conductor of the antenna coax (leaving the antenna connected
at the other end, what resistance should I see for:
comm antenna Cessna type
dme short type with ball on end
marker beacon wire type
gps Garmin active type
Thank you, Skip Simpson
Message 11
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| Subject: | MP3 player and microphone input |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>Bob...
>I am trying to connect my mp3 player to my audio panel/intercom through
>the copilot microphone jack. I got it to work once for a very short
>test. After that, my mp3 player would no longer work. (It may be
>fried) I connected the Player ground to the sleeve (mic ground). Then I
>connected The left and right audio together and connected them to the
>audio hi (inner ring) tab of the micro phone jack.
>My question...should I have connected the left and right audio from the
>mp3 to the tip (ptt) instead of the audio hi?
>Also... did I fry my mp3 player by connecting it to the audio hi of the
>mic jack?
Perhaps.
The "Mic Hi" lead from an aircraft audio system
has a dual purpose. It accepts audio from the microphone
but also supplies POWER to the microphone. Aircraft mics
are electronic descendants of the carbon microphones used
in early radio systems (and in telephones for over a century).
See:
http://users.pandora.be/oldmicrophones/microphone_history.htm
http://www.aerialpursuits.com/comms/mikes.htm
The carbon mic needs to be POWERED by the system over the
same leads that bring audio from the mic into the radio.
Contemporary mics have electronics that make the emulate
the original carbon mic operating philosophy. It may be
that voltage that appears on the microphone jack's audio
pin zapped your MP3 player. I'm sure that the MP3 player
was not designed to accept or expect any level of DC
power applied to its output jack.
Bob . . .
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 12
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt 605TES/TSI <Neal.George@Hurlburt.AF.MIL>
Good Morning Bob -
I'm wiring my RV-7 based on Z-13/8.
>From the Refernece section of your website,
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/s704inst.jpg shows a 1N4005 diode
across the Crowbar leads.
Z-13/8 shows the S704-1 Aux Alternator relay connected directly to the
Crowbar unit, no diode. Likewise, the drawings from B&C make no mention of
the diode.
What's the purpose of the diode, and has it been incoorptated into the
Crowbar, or do I need to hang it off the relay?
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG
Navarre, FL
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