Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:22 AM - Re: Re: Gear Indicator Lights (Greg Young)
2. 04:07 AM - Re: radio wires (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 06:20 AM - Re: Re: Gear Indicator Lights (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 06:58 AM - Re: Temperature calibration..... (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
5. 07:10 AM - Re: radio wires (Jim Baker)
6. 07:28 AM - Re: Systems Testing (Reginald E. DeLoach)
7. 08:04 AM - Re: radio wires (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 08:18 AM - Upsetting Bob (Dennis Jones)
9. 09:30 AM - Re: Upsetting Bob (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 09:45 AM - Re: Re: Gear Indicator Lights (John McMahon)
11. 10:51 AM - Re: Cable Tie Mounting Blocks (bob noffs)
12. 11:19 AM - Re: Cable Tie Mounting Blocks (Jim Pleasants)
13. 09:41 PM - BNC "Blindmate" Coax Connector (r falstad)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Gear Indicator Lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
> >>Time: 04:36:32 PM PST US
> >>From: Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
> >>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Gear Indicator lights
> >>
> >> I need some help finding suitable gear indicator lights for a
> >>certified ai rcraft, my Navion. I'm doing some cleanup and
> want to cut
> >>a new panel with the gear lights repositioned. The current lights
> >>would work except they are
> >> circa 1959 and the lenses are disintegrating. They are
> press-to-test
> >>with a sort of mushroom shaped lens. I've gotten a couple
> replacement
> >>lenses from my avionics shop junk drawer but would rather
> source new
> >>lights (or lenses if they are still made) rather than
> depend on the
> >>"luck of the drawer" when they break again. Anything with
> Mil, PMA or
> >>mfg blessing would make it a logbook entry per my IA but I'm not
> >>adverse to doing a 337 to get LED's or something more modern and
> >>aesthetically pleasing than MS25041 (ugly and expensive).
> Any help would be appreciated.
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>Greg Young
>
>
> Greg. How many and what colors? How are they labeled. I'm
> sure that by now, your adventures into the catalogs have
> shown that the choices are limited and getting more expensive
> all the time. Incandescent lamp fixtures rugged enough to
> meet most folks design goals are becoming more rare and
> the prices are not attractive.
>
> Consider fabricating a landing gear indicator assembly
> using LEDs. Let's talk about your design requirements
> and then sort through some ideas. Obviously, you can
> replace the existing lamps with brand new, similar
> fixtures . . . but perhaps there's a way to use a collection
> of much less expensive hardware to produce a new approach
> with LEDs . . .
>
> Of course, you may wind up spending more $time$ in
> design and fabrication than the simple replacement of
> existing fixtures would cost . . . but perhaps you
> have an interest in advancing the best-we-know-how-to-do.
>
> Bob . . .
>
Of course, there's a concern of spending more time than I really should but
I do like to make incremental improvements when I can. I view them as an
investment and it's also rewarding. But then it doesn't take much to feel
good on a 55 year old aircraft. I just replaced about 10 feet of lamp cord -
yup, 2-wire molded lamp cord - that had been spliced into my tip tank
senders. Sigh...
The gear indicators are 3 greens for the gear down and safe and a single
amber unsafe light. The current system also has a toggle switch with a wire
wound resistor across it for dimming. The lamp holders are all a
press-to-test type and my IA tells me I'll need to have a test feature if
the individual lights don't have it. I like the idea of the simple
bright/dim toggle. It's hard to mis-position it by accident. I seldom dim it
now because the lights are waaaay out of my scan (far right subpanel) but I
plan to move them front and center. While I'm at it I've also got a single
red Hydraulic System On light that I'll move too and match its style with
the gear lights.
I've been experimenting with LEDs for a disappearing annunciator panel for
my RV so I've got some limited experience with them. I'm still
electron-challenged so any circuit I work up for test and dimming will be
less than elegant. My bigger concern is sifting through the hundreds of LEDs
offered. Mentally I've been viewing this as a one-for-one light replacement
and haven't really focused on alternatives like annunciators with dynamic
colors and legends. I'm not sure how far I can push the FSDO on something
like the gear system but I'm going to get a pre-approval on the 337 before I
do anything so there's no harm in asking. I'm open to suggestions.
Regards,
Greg
Message 2
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 10:39 PM 9/17/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>I must have upset Bob N. with one of my questions of a question. So here
>goes again. During the daisy chain from the shields of the mic wires to
>the ground wire (all on the radio end of the wires) what is the best way
>to tie the pig tail into the ground wire coming from the aircraft ground?
>No I m not using a ground wire with a shield. The diagram shows the
>shields attaching to the ground wire from the aircraft ground pin. I m
>using d-subs.
Why would you think that I'm upset? I have x-hours a day
to devote to various activities. When I open the List postings,
I start at the most recent and work backwards. I almost never
pick up all the slack . . . there's not enough time. However,
if I attempted to pick up where I left off in the postings
and move forward, I'd never catch up. About once a month, I
discard incoming e-mails I didn't have time to address. They
number in the hundreds.
If you'll recall, I wrote a few days ago:
"Okay, got the scans. Great."
"I guess I'm not sure what the question is. The schematic shows
two aircraft ground (A/C Ground) connections to pins 4 and 15.
Wires that the manufacturer recommends be shielded have their
shield grounds returned to specific pins. They also show how
the shield can double as a ground return for mic, headphone,
speaker leads, etc. Further, their wiring suggests exactly
the same daisy-chaining technique I described in:"
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/pigtail/pigtail.html
At some point you wrote:
"I'm wiring the harness for a Terra TX-760D radio. My question is the
interconnect diagram shows the shield for the mic. audio, mic. key and the
headphone attach to the ground. I plan on using the daisy chain system
shown by Bob, however I'm confused about the shields connecting into the
ground wire itself or do they connect to the shield of the ground wire?"
Whereupon I was having trouble developing a
common mental image with you and wrote:
"OOPS! I just re-read your question and I think missed
something the first time. You talk about a "shield of
the ground wire".
Here's where I stumbled over your syntax and
interpreted your words to paint an image of
the ground wire as being shielded also where
I attempted to elaborate . . .
"The drawings show single strands of wire from pins 4 and
15 to ground. Your pigtails would either solder onto the
shared solder cups or splice into the ground wires immediately
adjacent to where they drop into the crimped on pin pocket.
The ground wires are not shielded."
So where are we with respect to achieving understanding?
Your pigtails must make electrical connection with
the single strand ground wires depicted in your drawings.
You have few choices . . . The solder cups and crimp-on
pins won't take two wires. So, you either splice your
pigtails into a ground wire (Strip back 1/4" of insulation
without cutting the wire. Wrap pigtail around ground wire,
solder and cover with heat shrink) or tack solder the
pigtail to the side of the ground wire solder cup.
Understand that few things "upset" me . . . the best
way is to inject yourself between me and one of my
customers by sowing the seeds of discontent and
misunderstanding and preventing me from carrying
out my duties as an honorable supplier of goods
and services. A past poster on the List claims to
have done just that . . . for THAT, there were
no words I could write on these pages to describe
my degree of upset. Aside from overtly dishonorable
behavior, you're not going to yank my chain and
certainly not over a discussion on shield pigtails!
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Gear Indicator Lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
> > Greg. How many and what colors? How are they labeled. I'm
> > sure that by now, your adventures into the catalogs have
> > shown that the choices are limited and getting more expensive
> > all the time. Incandescent lamp fixtures rugged enough to
> > meet most folks design goals are becoming more rare and
> > the prices are not attractive.
> >
> > Consider fabricating a landing gear indicator assembly
> > using LEDs. Let's talk about your design requirements
> > and then sort through some ideas. Obviously, you can
> > replace the existing lamps with brand new, similar
> > fixtures . . . but perhaps there's a way to use a collection
> > of much less expensive hardware to produce a new approach
> > with LEDs . . .
> >
> > Of course, you may wind up spending more $time$ in
> > design and fabrication than the simple replacement of
> > existing fixtures would cost . . . but perhaps you
> > have an interest in advancing the best-we-know-how-to-do.
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
>
>Of course, there's a concern of spending more time than I really should but
>I do like to make incremental improvements when I can. I view them as an
>investment and it's also rewarding. But then it doesn't take much to feel
>good on a 55 year old aircraft. I just replaced about 10 feet of lamp cord -
>yup, 2-wire molded lamp cord - that had been spliced into my tip tank
>senders. Sigh...
>
>The gear indicators are 3 greens for the gear down and safe and a single
>amber unsafe light. The current system also has a toggle switch with a wire
>wound resistor across it for dimming. The lamp holders are all a
>press-to-test type and my IA tells me I'll need to have a test feature if
>the individual lights don't have it. I like the idea of the simple
>bright/dim toggle. It's hard to mis-position it by accident. I seldom dim it
>now because the lights are waaaay out of my scan (far right subpanel) but I
>plan to move them front and center. While I'm at it I've also got a single
>red Hydraulic System On light that I'll move too and match its style with
>the gear lights.
>
>I've been experimenting with LEDs for a disappearing annunciator panel for
>my RV so I've got some limited experience with them. I'm still
>electron-challenged so any circuit I work up for test and dimming will be
>less than elegant. My bigger concern is sifting through the hundreds of LEDs
>offered. Mentally I've been viewing this as a one-for-one light replacement
>and haven't really focused on alternatives like annunciators with dynamic
>colors and legends. I'm not sure how far I can push the FSDO on something
>like the gear system but I'm going to get a pre-approval on the 337 before I
>do anything so there's no harm in asking. I'm open to suggestions.
I'm aware of no really "handy" replacements for incandescent
lamps with LEDs. The lamp fixtures are designed to be serviced
with new bulbs. Make a 'replacement' from an LED and you now
have excess parts that keep costs up and reliability down.
I've been working with some LED mounts, an office laminator,
AutoCAD and Photoshop to craft some fabrication techniques
for LED indicators/annunicators. One reasonably attractive
technique is illustrated at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Lighting/Annunciator_1.jpg
The lamps are high intensity devices I buy in bags off
Ebay. I can get red, green and amber lamps. The placard
is drawn in autocad, ported to photoshop for contrast
control and printed on a laserjet. The paper graphic
is hot laminated and then stuck to the panel with double
sided adhesive.
I don't include PTT functions with LEDs . . . it made
sense for incandescent lamps when back in WWII, one
NEEDED to know if a lamp was not lit because it wasn't
getting power or because it was burned out. LEDs have
the same or greater longevity as prop bolts so the
PTT feature purely for the sake of testing a lamp is
no longer a useful feature.
With respect to your OBAM project, your horizons are
not blocked. With respect to your TC project, you're
sitting in the bottom of a barrel with numerous people
holding out their hands for your $time$ to induce them
to give you permission to upgrade your aircraft.
In this case, I'd recommend you purchase the outrageously
priced PTT lamp fixtures and truck on. The satisfaction
of a "victory" in the battle to make your TC airplane better
will be short lived.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Temperature calibration..... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Yup...My bad...A professional engineer as well...My my what is the world
coming to?.....:)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
McCallum
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Temperature calibration.....
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob McCallum"
--> <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Uh- - - don't you mean 212 degrees F ???????
Bob McC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 11:16 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Temperature calibration.....
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George
(Corvallis)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Boiling water is dead accurate at 220F if your within 1000ft of sea
> level.
>
> All of my Dynon probes were within a degree or 2.
>
> Frank
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim
> Baker
> Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 12:06 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Temperature calibration.....
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Baker"
<jlbaker@msbit.net>
>
> Anyone have any unique ways to accomplish a calibration of a CHT
> sender/gauge at, say, 400F. I know about Tempilsticks and Tempilaq and
> others of that ilk, plus the NIST certified multimeteres (IR and
> contact) but wondered if there was something else out there I might
have
> missed....read that as cheap. Tho, Tempil is about as cheap as you can
> get.....
>
> Jim Baker
> 580.788.2779
> Elmore City, OK
>
>
Message 5
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X-mailer: Pegasus Mail for Windows (4.41)
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker@msbit.net>
> The solder cups and crimp-on
> pins won't take two wires.
Well, they will....but it ain't pretty. My Mitchell CIII autopilot
(Bless their little hearts!) had no less than three pairs of doubled
up wires into the back of a Centronics 24 solder cups. When one
of the contact tabs internal to the male connector folded over I
had to replace the Centronics connector and build up a service
loop pigtail to mate it all back together again. So, I'd probably
make this plea.....if you don't ever think that you'll have to
replace a specific connector, you will.
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
Elmore City, OK
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Systems Testing |
One of the more daunting tasks in problem solving is identifying
the problem. All too often, what we see is the result of the
problem and we immediately fixate on the result and formulate a
plan to "fix" it.
1. Identify and clarify the problem
2. Gather information
3. Evaluate the evidence
4. Consider Alternatives and Implications
5. Choose and Implement the Best Alternatives
There is a great difference between reasoning and rationalizing.
We need to ensure we are using reasoning and not just
rationalizing (justifying) our actions or action plans.
red :}
lucky wrote:
> Hence the peer review process. Remember, we're not talking
> big software program where our promotions/pay raises are based
> on how well we are perceived to be doing. We're talking OBAM
> with next to no one writing code or making fuel pumps from
> scratch. Writing your own draft test plan/test procedure is
> another chance to learn something about yourself and your
> design. Allows you to think about what you've actually done
> and find mistakes first. That can be a very satisfying party
> of this airplane experience. Peer Reviewing your "drafts" will
> add the sanity check. For us OBAM'ers, it's mostly developing
> system designs to use off the shelf components and succesfully
> physically installing them and ensuring they play well with
> other components. Just my two cents and I do this for a living
> too.
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Deems
> Davis
> >
> > There's pretty compelling evidence from industry
> that strongly suggests
> > that test plans written by the designers are biased
> to 'prove' the
> > design. More often then not this is not a conscious
> but an unconscious
> > bias. Someone, who is *equally* expert on the
> subject who is not
> > invested in the design writing a test plan will
> uncover more errors and
> > uncover them earlier. Mike Fagan @ IBM did some
> compelling research on
> > this subject and developed his 'inspection' process
> for software based
> > partly upon this principle. Other Quality guru's
> have done similarly on
> > manufacturing and other processes.
> >
> > Deems Davis # 406 < BR>> Panel/wiring
> > http://deemsrv10.com/
> >
> >
> >
> > lucky wrote:
> >
> > > I don't see anything wrong with the designer
> "writing the test", I see
> > > good things about that in the OBAM world. I'd add
> though to make the
> > > requirements & test plan/test procedures public
> so they can be "peer
> > > reviewed".
> > >
> > > Lucky
> > >
> > > -------------- Original message --------------
> > > From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> > >
> > > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by:
> "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On 15 Sep 2006, at 10:18, Gary Casey wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gary
> Casey
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Kevin previously wrote:
> > > > >> "If yo u don't do the test then, someday you
> may
> > > > >> stumble across that condition when you
> hadn't planned it. If the
> > > > >> system works as expected, then everything is
> OK. But if the
> > > system
> > > > >> does not perform, then you may lose the
> aircraft.
> > > > >
> > > > > Good points, but what "assumptions" do you
> have in mind that
> > > should
> > > > > be tested?
> > > >
> > > > >--> Ae roElec tric-List message posted by:
> "Peter Pengilly"
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >Try writing down a list of things your fuel
> system must do.
> > > Write simple
> > > > >statements and start with the basics -
> transfer fuel from the
> > > tank to
> > > > >the carb/injector fuel inlet at xx pressure.
> Write only one
> > > 'feature'
> > > > >per state ment. Think about what you want to
> happen in unusual
> > > situations
> > > > >or when components fail. Try not to think
> about your design.
> > > You are
> > > > >creating a set of "Requirements". Include
> details - must be
> > > able to get
> > > > >at fuel filter easily for servicing - as well
> as whole system
> > > issues -
> > > > >system must only need servicing yearly. Define
> words like
> > > 'easily'.
> > > > >
> > > > >There are now two parallel paths to follow. 1)
> Look at your
> > > design to
> > > > >ensure you have met all of the requirements -
> be critical (not
> > > always
> > > > >easy). If the design does not meet the
> requirements then change
> > > the
> > > > >design.
> > > > >
> > > > >2) Develop a verification or test for each
> requirement. If a > > ground test
> > > > >is too difficult you will now understand any
> risks you are
> > > taking - for
> > > > >example you may decide to trust the pressure
> gauge manufacturer's
> > > > >calibration (most people do). Minimize flight
> testing, its
> > > risky and
> > > > >getting good data is more difficult than you
> think. The best
> > > way is to
> > > > >get someone other than the designer to write
> the tests (your
> > > wife may
> > > > >be?), but that's not always possible.
> > > > >
> > > > >Be honest with yourself when testing. A second
> pair of eyes
> > > often helps.
> > > > >Try to keep it all simple.
> > > > >
> > > > >Yours, Pete
> > > >
> > > > Pete, thanks for posting this. An excellent
> illumination
> > > > of the thought processes behind set ting r
> equirements,
> > > > evaluating performance against those requireme
> nts, a nd
> > > > conducting a failure mode effects analysis
> (FMEA) from
> > > > which one (1) revises requirements and/or (2)
> deduces
> > > > Plan-B for each necessary item that fails to
> perform under
> > > > Plan-A.
> > > >
> > > > With respect to development of requirements,
> design, testing
> > > > and failure mitigation, I would encourage
> Listers to publish
> > > > their thoughts here on the List. No doubt some
> folks will be
> > > > inclined to evaluate your words with too much
> emphasis on their
> > > > assessment of your lack of skill and knowledge.
> Expect it to happen
> > > > and know that these postings should be
> summarily ignored.
> > > >
> > > > However, others are willing and able to assist
> with step/by/step
> > > > analysis of simple-id eas wi the W
>
>
Message 7
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 09:09 AM 9/18/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker@msbit.net>
>
> > The solder cups and crimp-on
> > pins won't take two wires.
>
>Well, they will....but it ain't pretty. My Mitchell CIII autopilot
>(Bless their little hearts!) had no less than three pairs of doubled
>up wires into the back of a Centronics 24 solder cups. When one
>of the contact tabs internal to the male connector folded over I
>had to replace the Centronics connector and build up a service
>loop pigtail to mate it all back together again. So, I'd probably
>make this plea.....if you don't ever think that you'll have to
>replace a specific connector, you will.
If it wasn't pretty, then the technology was being
abused. If you need to bring multiple wires into
a connector of either the solder or crimp variety do a
soldered, heat-shrink covered splice of the gaggle of
wires and bring out a single lead to drop into the
connector pin.
The connector manufacturer guarantees stated performance
when the product is use within limits. I've see techs
peel out half the strands of two wires so as to crimp both
conductors into a single pin . . . you're right, it ain't pretty.
Splicing external to the connector pin is the way to go.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 8
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Bob
Thanks Bob for the answer. I just became confused about the connection prior
to the pin from one of your previous notes. Let me assure you that I and (I
would bet 99.9 percent) of all the individuals on this list appreciate every
thing you have done. I for one would not have even attempted this part of
the project if it was not for you. Also I have had my work so far checked by
those that are educated in this profession and they can't believe the nice
work I have done so far. It is your work here on the matronics site and your
manual that enabled me to succeed. Bob we love you. Keep up the great work.
Dennis
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Upsetting Bob |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 09:55 AM 9/18/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>Bob
>
>
>Thanks Bob for the answer. I just became confused about the connection
>prior to the pin from one of your previous notes. Let me assure you that I
>and (I would bet 99.9 percent) of all the individuals on this list
>appreciate every thing you have done. I for one would not have even
>attempted this part of the project if it was not for you. Also I have had
>my work so far checked by those that are educated in this profession and
>they can t believe the nice work I have done so far. It is your work here
>on the matronics site and your manual that enabled me to succeed. Bob we
>love you. Keep up the great work.
>
>
No problem my friend. I'm just wanting folks to
understand that I am a teacher first. It's my
duty as a teacher to get a handle on someone's
understanding before I can adequately address it.
I'm getting a REAL challenge in that regard right
now . . . I've got some Saturday morning classes
at WSU for employees of RAC from 8-10 and for their
kids from 10-12. Irrespective of the age or background,
I understand that we need to achieve some connection
via language and perhaps some pictures.
I'll NEVER get bent over a miscommunication if there's
a realistic hope for closing the gap. So in no way
was I admonishing you . . . just trying to keep
impediments to progress from jumping up and getting
in the way.
In fact, our conversation has suggested some expansion
of the comic book at:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/pigtail/pigtail.html
My camera is out at RAC right now but I think I'll
shoot some pictures this evening and add them to
that posting.
Holler if I can help.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Gear Indicator Lights |
On 9/18/06, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckollsr@cox.net> wrote:
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <
> nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
>
> I've been working with some LED mounts, an office laminator,
> AutoCAD and Photoshop to craft some fabrication techniques
> for LED indicators/annunicators. One reasonably attractive
> technique is illustrated at:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Lighting/Annunciator_1.jpg
Bob, Many times you post links to great pictures, in many cases they seem to
be part of another article, is there a simple way to get from the picture to
the related article?
Thanks for all your teaching efforts, I know they are a great help to many
of us.
--
John McMahon
Lancair Super ES, N9637M
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cable Tie Mounting Blocks |
hi all, i think the epoxy is the way to go. jb weld is handy but the
epoxy holds much better. as i am building a plane held together by glue.
i have , out of curiosity tested t-88 against jb weld for holding metal
to wood. hanging increasing weight till failure, the t-88 held about
12 times more wt. than the jb weld. just something to think about to
help put things in perspective. bob noffs----- Original Message -----
From: LRE2@aol.c
om
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 9:33 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Cable Tie Mounting Blocks
I took a different tack, probably overkill, but easy , and I think
very reliable. I cut multiple ~1" squares of 2-3 ply glass and screwed
the blocks to them from the back. Then I applied the roughened squares
to the fiberglass with structural Epoxy. They aren't going anywhere.
LRE
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Cable Tie Mounting Blocks |
FWIW:
I glued four of the cheap cable tie mounting blocks to the bottom of
a coffee can after removing the foam backing from the blocks and
cleaning both the plastic and the metal on the can.
Four glues were used:
Shoe goo
Marine 5200
Liquid Nails-- for solids, high temperature
two-part epoxy.
The bottom of the can was painted dark to absorb heat (much as an
airplane setting on a ramp in the summertime). I placed this can, with
lid, on the dashboard of my truck for several days while the truck was
parked in the sun.
The epoxy failed after about a week of this. All the others are
still very secure.
Not scientific, but I'm happy with the results. YMMV.
Jim Pleasants
pile of aluminum and stuff, hoping to transform it into an RV-7A.
Message 13
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| Subject: | BNC "Blindmate" Coax Connector |
I'm installing a Garmin transponder in my "OBAM". The installation
calls for the coax (RG-400) to go into a BNC "Blindmate" connector. The
instructions call for the exposed braid to be pushed into the connector
shell and solder melted in to attach it (in addition to soldering the
center conductor on the inside of the connector). This doesn't look
like a very mechanically strong connection. Especially since some of
the braid bunched up when I pushed it into the connector. I also had
trouble getting enough heat on the connector to flow solder without
barbequing the connector.
Any suggestions, tips or tricks to get a sound electrical and mechanical
connection? How close to the connector do you need to have your first
mechanical support for the coax?
Bob
GlaStar
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