AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Tue 09/19/06


Total Messages Posted: 11



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:14 AM - Battery kill switch operation. (Gianni Zuliani)
     2. 04:23 AM - Re: BNC "Blindmate" Coax Connector (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
     3. 04:40 AM - Re: Battery kill switch operation. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     4. 05:16 AM - charging system problems (Collin Campbell)
     5. 06:07 AM - Re: charging system problems (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     6. 08:12 AM - Re: BNC "Blindmate" Coax Connector (Richard Tasker)
     7. 08:29 AM - Re: charging system problems (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
     8. 08:38 AM - Re: BNC "Blindmate" Coax Connector (Ken)
     9. 01:21 PM - Re: charging system problems (collin)
    10. 08:34 PM - Re: charging system problems (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    11. 10:42 PM - Transponder (Dennis Jones)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:14:39 AM PST US
    From: "Gianni Zuliani" <gz@comgz.com>
    Subject: Battery kill switch operation.
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gianni Zuliani" <gz@comgz.com> Good morning all, I'm considering the use of a manual battery kill, like this one: http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=60/category_id=133/home_id=76/mode=prod/prd60.htm This is because my battery is located under passenger's seat in my Stag-Ezr and it would easy pilot's reach in electrical emergency. This would replace my present battery contactor, mounted in the usual position. My question is: is there any reason to use the manual battery kill switch on the negative battery post (ground) like I'm told is used on racing cars, rather than on positive post, like the usual relay battery contactor? Myself, I don't see any difference, unless someone enlighten me. Thanks. Gianni Zuliani. http://www.comgz.com/stag-ez.htm


    Message 2


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    Time: 04:23:00 AM PST US
    From: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
    Subject: Re: BNC "Blindmate" Coax Connector
    In a message dated 9/19/2006 12:43:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, bobair8@msn.com writes: I'm installing a Garmin transponder in my "OBAM". The installation calls for the coax (RG-400) to go into a BNC "Blindmate" connector. The instructions call for the exposed braid to be pushed into the connector shell and solder melted in to attach it (in addition to soldering the center conductor on the inside of the connector). This doesn't look like a very mechanically strong connection. Especially since some of the braid bunched up when I pushed it into the connector. I also had trouble getting enough heat on the connector to flow solder without barbequing the connector. Any suggestions, tips or tricks to get a sound electrical and mechanical connection? How close to the connector do you need to have your first mechanical support for the coax? Bob GlaStar ---------------------------------------------------------- Here we go again! Bob: I am not familiar with 'Blindmate", never heard of it ... Not that it does not exist, just never heard of it. Anyway ... Just get a good quality SOLDER TYPE - BNC connector from a good electronics store, NOT Radio Shack. It will have the solder type center connector and a rubber type 'O' ring/gasket for the braid. A good set of assembly instructions can be found probably at the store or in the library ... Look for them in the ARRL Handbook or ARRL Antenna Book. You may even find instructions over the Internet. The screw on back of the BNC connector makes a very good mechanical connection as well as an electrical connection. Make sure the screw on back is the proper size for the coax diameter you are using. Barry "Chop'd Liver" "I would rather be Screwed than crimped."


    Message 3


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    Time: 04:40:44 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Battery kill switch operation.
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 09:10 AM 9/19/2006 +0200, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gianni Zuliani" <gz@comgz.com> > >Good morning all, >I'm considering the use of a manual battery kill, like this one: >http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=60/category_id=133/home_id=76/mode=prod/prd60.htm >This is because my battery is located under passenger's seat in my Stag-Ezr >and it would easy pilot's reach in electrical emergency. >This would replace my present battery contactor, mounted in the usual >position. >My question is: is there any reason to use the manual battery kill switch on >the negative battery post (ground) like I'm told is used on racing cars, >rather than on positive post, like the usual relay battery contactor? >Myself, I don't see any difference, unless someone enlighten me. >Thanks. >Gianni Zuliani. No difference. Bob . . . --------------------------------------------------------- < What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that > < the authority which determines whether there can be > < debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of > < scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests > < with experiment. > < --Lawrence M. Krauss > ---------------------------------------------------------


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:16:59 AM PST US
    From: "Collin Campbell" <collinc@alltel.net>
    Subject: charging system problems
    Hi, I am new to this list, but I am seeking some help with a charging system problem on my "Bearhawk". Let me try to describe the problem as best I can. I am using a Van's 35 amp alt. a VR-371 voltage/over-voltage protector, and a Electronics International (VA-1) guage installed in the alt lead. Also using a Odyssey 680 battery. The problem is this: Everything seems to work just fine until maybe 10-15 minutes into the flight when the discharge light on the VA-1 comes on. I can reset the system by recyling the field breaker and everything goes back to normal--charging again. This will last maybe another 10-15 minutes and the whole process repeats itself. I have checked all my conections, replaced the battery, and now am beginning to suspect the alternator or even the regulator. But I need some advice before I go replacing stuff that doesn't need replacing. (been there done that before!) Any advice would be appreciated, Collin


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:07:21 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: charging system problems
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 07:14 AM 9/19/2006 -0500, you wrote: >Hi, > >I am new to this list, but I am seeking some help with a charging system >problem on my "Bearhawk". >Let me try to describe the problem as best I can. I am using a Van's 35 >amp alt. a VR-371 voltage/over-voltage protector, and a Electronics >International (VA-1) guage installed in the alt lead. Also using a Odyssey >680 battery. > >The problem is this: Everything seems to work just fine until maybe 10-15 >minutes into the flight when the discharge light on the VA-1 comes on. I >can reset the system by recyling the field breaker and everything goes >back to normal--charging again. This will last maybe another 10-15 >minutes and the whole process repeats itself. I have checked all my >conections, replaced the battery, and now am beginning to suspect the >alternator or even the regulator. But I need some advice before I go >replacing stuff that doesn't need replacing. (been there done that before!) If your system needs "reset", then the symptoms suggest that the OV protection system in your voltage regulator is being tripped. This becomes a problem of deducing whether a real OV condition existed -or- the circuit is being nuisance tripped. It's a rational component of troubleshooting to suspect any component. But it's much better to do measurements to determine the physics behind the difficulty before embarking on a swaptronics excursion where one can only hope to pick the right component . . . with the attendant risk that NONE of the components replaced will fix the problem. What are your bus voltages when the system is operating normally? I'm curious as to how you integrated the VR-371 voltage regulator with a Van's alterantor. I was under the impression that Van's sold only internally regulated machines. Let's do the detective work before you pull out any hardware. Bob . . .


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:12:19 AM PST US
    From: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
    Subject: Re: BNC "Blindmate" Coax Connector
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net> I don't know what a "Blindmate" connector is, but if it is the same as or similar to the right angle one used on the back of the SL-70 the method is basically the same. However, on the SL-70 connector the braid is slid onto the outside of the connector. Are you sure yours says to slide it into the connector? As far as getting enough heat, you will need a good 50-60 watt soldering iron with a large tip and be patient. I used my Weller temperature controlled iron and it works fine - just take a bit longer than a normal solder joint. A larger iron would work better or if you have a heat-shrink hot air gun, you can preheat the assembly to speed things up. The RG-400 coax and the connector use only metal and teflon, so there is little problem with harming either unless you go way overboard with higher temperature than any reasonable soldering iron. As far as mechanical strength, this is as strong as you are going to get if you have a good solder joint. Dick Tasker r falstad wrote: > I'm installing a Garmin transponder in my "OBAM". The installation > calls for the coax (RG-400) to go into a BNC "Blindmate" connector. > The instructions call for the exposed braid to be pushed into the > connector shell and solder melted in to attach it (in addition to > soldering the center conductor on the inside of the connector). This > doesn't look like a very mechanically strong connection. Especially > since some of the braid bunched up when I pushed it into the > connector. I also had trouble getting enough heat on the connector to > flow solder without barbequing the connector. > > Any suggestions, tips or tricks to get a sound electrical and > mechanical connection? How close to the connector do you need to have > your first mechanical support for the coax? > > Bob > GlaStar > >* >* >


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:29:18 AM PST US
    From: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
    Subject: Re: charging system problems
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com In a message dated 9/19/06 8:26:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time, collinc@alltel.net writes: > Hi, > > I am new to this list, but I am seeking some help with a charging system > problem on my "Bearhawk". > Let me try to describe the problem as best I can. I am using a Van's 35 amp > alt. a VR-371 voltage/over-voltage protector, and a Electronics > International (VA-1) guage installed in the alt lead. Also using a Odyssey > 680 battery. > > The problem is this: Everything seems to work just fine until maybe 10-15 > minutes into the flight when the discharge light on the VA-1 comes on. I can > reset the system by recyling the field breaker and everything goes back to > normal--charging again. This will last maybe another 10-15 minutes and the > whole process repeats itself. I have checked all my conections, replaced the > battery, and now am beginning to suspect the alternator or even the regulator. > But I need some advice before I go replacing stuff that doesn't need > replacing. (been there done that before!) > > Any advice would be appreciated, > > Collin ======================== Collin: Keeping things simple ... You did not mention what plane the alternator is in? But, from your explanation since TIME is function of failure I would also surmise that TEMPERATURE is a function of failure. Do you have a cooling tube blowing on the alternator? I have found on two RV-6's with the SAME alternator that COOLING is a MUST! I installed a smooth flowing cooling tube and have NOT seen the tripping problem in years. Also, a bit of cool air blowing on the front bearing goes a long way to longevity of the alternator. Now, after you cool things off, then start electron chasing. Barry "Chop'd Liver" "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third time." Yamashiada


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:38:23 AM PST US
    From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
    Subject: Re: BNC "Blindmate" Coax Connector
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ken <klehman@albedo.net> My old 140 watt Weller solder gun also works fine on these Bob. Those (or an imported knockoff) are pretty cheap and they heat up quickly for occasional use. http://www.lashen.com/vendors/CooperTools/Weller_soldering_guns.asp Ken L. Richard Tasker wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker > <retasker@optonline.net> > > I don't know what a "Blindmate" connector is, but if it is the same as > or similar to the right angle one used on the back of the SL-70 the > method is basically the same. However, on the SL-70 connector the > braid is slid onto the outside of the connector. Are you sure yours > says to slide it into the connector? > > As far as getting enough heat, you will need a good 50-60 watt > soldering iron with a large tip and be patient. I used my Weller > temperature controlled iron and it works fine - just take a bit longer > than a normal solder joint. A larger iron would work better or if you > have a heat-shrink hot air gun, you can preheat the assembly to speed > things up. The RG-400 coax and the connector use only metal and > teflon, so there is little problem with harming either unless you go > way overboard with higher temperature than any reasonable soldering iron. > > As far as mechanical strength, this is as strong as you are going to > get if you have a good solder joint. > > Dick Tasker > > r falstad wrote: > >> I'm installing a Garmin transponder in my "OBAM". The installation >> calls for the coax (RG-400) to go into a BNC "Blindmate" connector. >> The instructions call for the exposed braid to be pushed into the >> connector shell and solder melted in to attach it (in addition to >> soldering the center conductor on the inside of the connector). This >> doesn't look like a very mechanically strong connection. Especially >> since some of the braid bunched up when I pushed it into the >> connector. I also had trouble getting enough heat on the connector >> to flow solder without barbequing the connector. >> Any suggestions, tips or tricks to get a sound electrical and >> mechanical connection? How close to the connector do you need to >> have your first mechanical support for the coax? >> >> Bob >> GlaStar >> * >> * >


    Message 9


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    Time: 01:21:38 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: charging system problems
    From: "collin" <collinc@alltel.net>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "collin" <collinc@alltel.net> The Van's 35 amp alt requires a regulator. (at least according to their website: ES 14184 W/O FAN: A small lightweight alternator that develops a maximum of 35 amperes (12 volt DC) and is usually enough for most RV's. This unit requires the use of an external voltage regulator. I don't know what the amp load is on the bus bar. I will try to check on my next flight. I am still in the test phase of a new aircraft and there are a lot ot things to pay attention to. Collin Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62576#62576


    Message 10


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    Time: 08:34:11 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: charging system problems
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 07:14 AM 9/19/2006 -0500, you wrote: >Hi, > >I am new to this list, but I am seeking some help with a charging system >problem on my "Bearhawk". >Let me try to describe the problem as best I can. I am using a Van's 35 >amp alt. a VR-371 voltage/over-voltage protector, and a Electronics >International (VA-1) guage installed in the alt lead. Also using a Odyssey >680 battery. > >The problem is this: Everything seems to work just fine until maybe 10-15 >minutes into the flight when the discharge light on the VA-1 comes on. I >can reset the system by recyling the field breaker and everything goes >back to normal--charging again. This will last maybe another 10-15 >minutes and the whole process repeats itself. I have checked all my >conections, replaced the battery, and now am beginning to suspect the >alternator or even the regulator. But I need some advice before I go >replacing stuff that doesn't need replacing. (been there done that before!) > >Any advice would be appreciated, Okay. Understand that the alternator you have is externally regulated. I wasn't aware that Van's was offering one. I acquired the envelope and spec drawing for the voltage regulator. You can get a copy at: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Regulators/Electrosystems/VR371.pdf I'm disappointed that the data sheet doesn't tell us anything useful about the OV protection features. They've cited DO-160C, Section 16, Category B which makes no sense at all. DO-160 does not apply to the generation and control of DC power systems. Mil-STD-704 does. So we can deduce nothing about the trip dynamics of their OV protection system from the data supplied. I'm tracking down an acceptance test procedure from an overhaul shop to see if there's more to be learned. In the mean time, since you DO have access to the alternator's field voltage, there's a troubleshooting guide in Note 8 of: http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev11/AppZ_R11J.pdf Getting some numbers about system performance as described in the procedure will help us help you figure out where the electrons fell into the mud. Bob . . .


    Message 11


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    Time: 10:42:08 PM PST US
    Subject: Transponder
    From: "Dennis Jones" <djones@northboone.net>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dennis Jones" <djones@northboone.net> What is a strobe output/input for a transponder/encoder? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62691#62691




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