AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Tue 10/03/06


Total Messages Posted: 27



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:34 AM - Re: Garmin 396/496 Connections (MikeEasley@aol.com)
     2. 04:57 AM - Re:Relays 'G's" skunk stink (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     3. 04:58 AM - Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     4. 07:16 AM - Re: Alternator test lead (Greg Campbell)
     5. 07:42 AM - Re: Connectors vs. Straight Wire (Jim Baker)
     6. 07:49 AM - Re: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION) (Jim Oke)
     7. 09:35 AM - vhf antennas ()
     8. 10:10 AM - Re: vhf antennas (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     9. 10:11 AM - Re: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    10. 10:28 AM - Re: Connectors vs. Straight Wire (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    11. 10:58 AM - Re: Re: vhf antennas ()
    12. 12:19 PM - Strobe Wiring (Jeff Moreau)
    13. 12:38 PM - Re: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION) (Jim Oke)
    14. 01:10 PM - Re: Strobe Wiring (LarryMcFarland)
    15. 01:38 PM - Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (Eric M. Jones)
    16. 02:08 PM - Re: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (Dave N6030X)
    17. 02:55 PM - Pull to low (N395V)
    18. 03:52 PM - Re: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION) (raymondj)
    19. 04:23 PM - Re: Pull to low (Matt Prather)
    20. 06:56 PM - Re: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION) (Dave N6030X)
    21. 07:01 PM - Re: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    22. 07:33 PM - Re: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    23. 07:48 PM - [ Larry Rosen ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
    24. 08:48 PM - Modified Z13-20 for Peer Review (Larry Rosen)
    25. 10:03 PM - Re: [ Larry Rosen ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Bob McCallum)
    26. 10:12 PM - Re: Modified Z13-20 for Peer Review (Bob McCallum)
    27. 11:45 PM - Re: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION) (raymondj)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:34:56 AM PST US
    From: MikeEasley@aol.com
    Subject: RE: Garmin 396/496 Connections
    The power data cable only has mono audio output. You need to wire the mini phone jack into your audio panel, one of the entertainment inputs. I bought a 15' extension cable for the audio connection. You can also drive most autopilots from the 396/496 also. So in my installation I only used the power and ground wires in the power data cable. I've contemplated cutting the XM antenna wire at the antenna and making a short pigtail so I can route wire to the XM antenna location and just plug in the antenna before flight. Just haven't got up the nerve to cut and splice the wires yet. Mike Easley Colorado Springs Lancair ES


    Message 2


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    Time: 04:57:36 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re:Relays 'G's" skunk stink
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 08:07 AM 10/2/2006 -0700, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net> > >I think it is time for someone with a little authority to clear this up. >My authority is so little that I have hidden it under one of the periods >in this posting. A prize awaits the one who finds it. > >1) Relay mounting. Type 70 Stancor Rodgers White Emerson Tyco. See: > >http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Products/Datasheets/BM/STANCOR/Stancor_Industrial-Control_5760005.pdf > >So the manufacturer says, "mount plunger vertical, cap down". I checked >into the engineering data on this part and of course the corporate >conglomeratization has destroyed the engineering knowledge that built the >part. The manufacturer PROMISED they'd get back to me.....It's not DO-160 >bubela. And it's only 122 deg F max operating temp. Etc. etc. Why would you suppose they would make this recommendation? Is the engineering knowledge behind the recommendation so esoteric that we cannot deduce it for ourselves? > Use the Kilovac EV200 part if you can. Of course everyone CAN . . . it's a matter of trades. What is the return on investment for the trade . . . and is there more than one trade? <snip> >"Everything you've learned in school as "obvious" becomes less and less >obvious as you begin to study the universe. For example, there are no >solids in the universe. There's not even a suggestion of a solid. There >are no absolute continuums. There are no surfaces. There are no straight >lines." > - R. Buckminster Fuller Interesting quotation . . . I'm fond of quotations that offer simple-ideas of easily discovered utility. How would you propose we use the learned gentleman's to guide our deliberations? Bob . . . --------------------------------------------------------- < You can never learn less, you can only learn more. > < R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------------------------------------


    Message 3


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    Time: 04:58:44 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION)
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 11:12 PM 10/2/2006 -0500, you wrote: --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 10:59 AM 10/2/2006 -0500, you wrote: --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave N6030X <N6030X@DaveMorris.com> Anybody have a centrifuge with accelerometer and want to conduct a little experiment? Dave Morris I've done this already . . . but the rationale for mounting the contactor in any particular orientation has yet to be supported by the underlying simple-ideas. Yes, that's what the data sheet says but fails to explain why. An there's a famous Tyco white paper that makes some perfectly good measurements from which the authors then infer but never demonstrate deleterious effects that are not driven by the same science. There IS a reason why mounting the contactor under discussion cap down is a good idea and we've already hat-danced around it . . . and it's NOT for consideration of g-forces. Bob . . .


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:16:55 AM PST US
    From: "Greg Campbell" <gregcampbellusa@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Alternator test lead
    This has already been answered, but to add a little perspective and some math to the answer... 1) What is the purpose of the resistor in the voltage sense line? To prevent bad things from happening if the other end of the voltage sense line (or some point in the middle) accidentally shorts to ground, or in the case of a alternator field, shorts to positive. 2) What's the "worst case" scenario for the particular application? If you had a voltage sense lead running to say a battery, and the other end shorts to ground - it would try and draw hundreds of amps through a tiny sense wire. If the sense wire is small, it might act like a fusible link and go poof. (Good!) If it is big wire (you used some spare #10 wire for "sturdiness"), then it might act like a dandy heater and fire starter. (Bad!) 3) What's the "cure" ? Add a resistor in line with the voltage test point that's suitable for the "worst case". So even if you used some spare #8 wire for your voltage sense wire, but - at the battery end - you added a 1000 ohm resistor, then in a 14v system (with the alternator ON), a short would produce a maximum of 0.014 Amps or 0.196 Watts. Not much of a heater or a fire starter. (Good!) And at 0.196 Watts, a quarter Watt 1000 ohm resistor could happily dissipate that heat all day long without getting too hot. 4) What if it's a 28v system? At 28volts, a 1000 ohm resistor will draw 0.028Amps, and since Watts = Volts * Amps, or Amps^2 * Resistance, a paltry 0.784 Watts. A quarter watt resistor will get extremely hot and may even fail open. A larger 1/2 Watt resistor will get nasty hot. A 1 Watt resistor will get toasty warm, but can handle that load all day long depending on how it's mounted. (The Watt rating is almost always about surface area and ventilation.) Arguably, you might prefer the resistor to act as a fusible link in a situation like that. So a 1/8 Watt resistor might be the resistor of choice. One good overload and "poof", no more resistor. Of course, no more voltage sensing either - leading to erroneous conclusions as to the nature of the problem. The best way to tell what your resistor will behave like is to short it out and see how hot it gets. If it's going to be bundled with other wires, covered with a boot, etc.. it's best to simulate those conditions as well. 5) In the case of a voltage sense wire on an alternator field, you also have to be concerned about what happens if the voltage sense wire shorts out to positive. If the sense wire were capable of supplying several amps to the alternator field, you could get a runaway alternator over voltage. By adding the resistor, you prevent it from supplying more than a few tenths of an amp to the field. 6) Doing the math backwards on a 28volt system: a one Watt resistor of 784 ohms or higher will be fine all day long a 1/2 Watt resistor of 1,568 ohms or higher will be fine all day long a 1/4 Watt resistor of 3,136 ohms or higher will be fine all day long... For a 14 volts system, divide all the Ohms by 4... a one Watt resistor of 196 ohms will handle 1 Watt all day long (with proper ventilation) a 1/2 Watt resistor of 392 ohms will handle 1/2 Watt all day long a 1/4 Watt resistor of 784 ohms will handle 1/4 Watt all day long 7) Don't fall for the common mistake of trying to "double up" resistors in parallel to get the "required" 1 Watt rating. If you take two 1000 Ohm 1/2 Watt resistors (more readily available than 1 Watt resistors, plus they come two to the pack.) and put them in parallel you won't be happy with the results because... You've created a 500 ohm "resistor network" (use your ohmmeter and you'll see)... So on a 28v system it will draw MORE amps and MORE Watts, and each of your 1/2 resistors will be trying to dissipate 0.784 Watts and not very happy about it. So... if you're rooting through the parts bins and all you can find are 1/4 or 1/2 Watt resistors, then use the larger ohm values. Double the resistance value if necessary. It won't make a difference to your voltmeter, and if you accidentally short things out - it won't create smoke & funny smells where you don't want it to. If all you can find are two 1000 Ohm 1/4 Watt Resistors, I'd be more inclined to put them in series for an effective resistance of 2000 ohms. This would dissipate 0.098 Watts in a 14v system, and 0.392 Watts (total) in a 28v system. The heat dissipated by each resistor would be half that, well within the limits of a 1/4 Watt resistor. Bob's probably right - any resistor in the 200 to 2000 ohm range will do, especially in the 1 Watt size. I prefer to use resistors in the 1000 to 3000 ohm range in the more common 1/4 or 1/2 Watt sizes. If you have a 28v System, I'd use the higher resistance values, but you can do the math. The really important thing is that you put the resistor close to the "source", not at the measuring end of the "sense wire". It's kind of like a fuse - you want it to protect the entire run of the wire, not the "end device" which is your voltmeter. Greg


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:42:29 AM PST US
    From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker@msbit.net>
    Subject: Connectors vs. Straight Wire
    X-mailer: Pegasus Mail for Windows (4.41) --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker@msbit.net> > There ARE wire bails for keeping d-subs together. My favorite for > cable-to-cable d-subs is remove the jack-screw hardware and use > tye-wraps to keep them together. Must be rarer than hens teeth....all I can find is the IDC D-sub w/bail locks. Did find a bail lock kit...going price was $7 a pop with one vendor down to $3. Your Ty Wraps look better all the time. Jim Baker 580.788.2779 Elmore City, OK


    Message 6


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    Time: 07:49:12 AM PST US
    From: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
    Subject: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION)
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca> I'll take a stab. Mounting "cap down" means that gravity (and a bit of engine vibration) will separate the main current contacts after the coil is de-energized should the internal compression spring fail. Mounting the other way would have the contacts potentially closing due gravity if the spring failed with potential for all sorts of unhappy results. Thanks to Bob for the nice internal pictures of this style of contactor. (I seem to have several of them in use personally). Jim Oke Wpg., MB RV-6A & RV-3 Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" > <nuckollsr@cox.net> > > At 11:12 PM 10/2/2006 -0500, you wrote: > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" > <nuckollsr@cox.net> > > At 10:59 AM 10/2/2006 -0500, you wrote: > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave N6030X > <N6030X@DaveMorris.com> > > Anybody have a centrifuge with accelerometer and want to conduct a > little experiment? > > Dave Morris > > I've done this already . . . but the rationale for mounting > the contactor in any particular orientation has yet to be > supported by the underlying simple-ideas. > > Yes, that's what the data sheet says but fails to explain > why. An there's a famous Tyco white paper that makes some > perfectly good measurements from which the authors then > infer but never demonstrate deleterious effects that > are not driven by the same science. > > There IS a reason why mounting the contactor under > discussion cap down is a good idea and we've already > hat-danced around it . . . and it's NOT for consideration > of g-forces. > > Bob . . . >


    Message 7


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    Time: 09:35:39 AM PST US
    From: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: vhf antennas
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net> Hi ,I'm building an rv10,and I have contradictories informations about how install the antennas,the counselor and a couple of "masters" say clean the metal from any paint and install the antenna,but the manufacturer send it with a cork gasket(one of the best insulation ),to install . any logical for this. Thanks. Hugo


    Message 8


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    Time: 10:10:13 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: vhf antennas
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 12:33 PM 10/3/2006 -0400, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net> > >Hi ,I'm building an rv10,and I have contradictories informations about how >install the antennas,the counselor and a couple of "masters" say clean the >metal from any paint and install the antenna,but the manufacturer send it >with a cork gasket(one of the best insulation ),to install . >any logical for this. >Thanks. >Hugo See: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Antenna/Antenna_Installation.gif From some earlier posts: >A while back you had some words of wisdom for a person who'd asked about >getting enough metal to metal contact for ground plane purposes with his >comm antenna. You mentioned to him that riveting his doubler plates to the >skin would provide plenty of contact when paint and other debris was >squeezed out during the riveting process. I have a little different twist >on this question. I made doubler plates to go inside the fuselage but don't >really want to rivet them on. The number of fasteners that hold the >antennas to the airplane will hold doublers to the skin and I don't see a >need to rivet the doublers on. This however, could cause trouble. Since >I've already primed the inside of the aluminum fuselage skin, would like to >prime the doublers so they don't corrode when water gets between them and >the fuselage skin and don't want to remove the primer from the skin......I >fear I will have insufficient connection to get good ground plane action. >The comm antennas come with a cork gasket that's supposed to go between the >outside skin and the antenna so that limits ground plane connection on the >outside skin (presently bare aluminum). Am I gonna have to bite the bullet >and rivet the doublers to get some connection or ????(the doublers have >nutplates riveted to them to accept the antenna fasteners). Any words of >wisdom here? The antennas are the standard store bought COMANT bent whips. >Thanks. Welcome to the club. When somebody decides to design a new airplane, they start with aero and power plant guys. Then come the structures and processes folks. After awhile the systems folks put in fuel, hydraulics and flight controls. When the 'airplane' is done, some guy with radios, cabin entertainment systems, etc is told, "Okay, you can have whatever space is left over . . . but don't CHANGE anything." This approach to an HF antenna installation (without CHANGING anything) has resulted in a situation where other equipment items inside the all metal airplane are suffering huge interfering energies from the HF transmitter. Had the structures and processes guys been involved since day-one to make the metal serve as both airplane and antenna, we'd have several $millions$ still in the corporate pockets instead of blowing that cash on band-aid fixes to delivered aircraft. Now, on a much smaller scale, you're presented with the same kind of problem. The laws of physics are immutable. The primary, long term, gas-tight connections between your antenna base and airframe happen right under the head and nut of the fasteners. If you need a doubler, then it needs to be well bonded to the airframe . . . and that means rivets or high pressure joints between ground conductors. If you choose not to rivet the doubler, you need to clean 2 extra surfaces before installation. See: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Antenna/Antenna_Installation.gif If the doubler is riveted, then surfaces between doubler and skin can be left as-manufactured but it wouldn't hurt to clean these too. I'd pitch the cork gasket and go for a thin bead of moisture sealant around outside edge of antenna base that extrudes out to zero-thickness at time of installation. PRESSURE and CLEANLINESS around the immediate circumference of the mounting screws is where it all happens. >Bob, >Speaking of the magic (grounding the base) - looking at the >Antenna_Installation.gif , >I have seen toothed lock washers used between the doubler plate and skin. >This was on a Cessna. The doubler plate was not riveted to the skin (it >came with with the antenna replacement kit). The lock washer assured better >el contact (grounding). They used externally toothed lock washers, as per >attached. Maybe a better idea would be to use the external-internal toothed >type washers (also attached). Opinions? We're really slice'n and dice'n mouse hairs here. Obviously the goal is to get a low ohms connection between the antenna base and the skin that is as good 10 years from now as it is the day we bolt it on. This comes down to a few simple-ideas: (1) pressure high enough to bring two clean surfaces into intimate gas tight contact with each other and (2) exclusion of environmental effects that include (a) contaminants and (b) loosening that work against condition (1). Some designers embrace the idea that the toothed lockwashers provide a multitude of very high pressure points . . . even to the point of upsetting metal at the points of contact to achieve (1). My concerns are that a toothed washer is a spacer between the two surfaces that may contribute to initial joint quality (1) but leaves the gap "open" for ingress of (a). In all of our bonding specs at RAC, the use of lockwashers is never suggested. Self locking all metal nuts are the preferred anti-loosening technology. In the sketch I published, 99% of the magic needs to happen in the area just around the screw hole and between skin and antenna base. All other "prepared" areas add only marginally to the quality of the joint. Obviously, the "99% conductivity area" is of very small gap and the only thing one might add is sealant or anti-moisture guckum (Like silocone grease) to fill the tiny void around the periphery of the 99% area to prevent entry of oxidizing agents. Beyond that, maintainance of pressure over time is enhanced by use of largest practical hardware torqued to upper limits and secured with some form of locking technology . . . all metal locknuts being the technology of choice. When we were selling contactors with treaded studs for fat wires, the split-ring, steel washers supplied were discarded and replaced with internal tooth, phosphor bronze lockwashers. The supplied steel nuts were replaced with brass. Again, the lion's share of conductive magic happens were the terminal comes down against the bottom nut. The lockwasher and nut on top contributes to conductivity but only a tiny fraction of the total. Bob. . .


    Message 9


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    Time: 10:11:28 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION)
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 09:48 AM 10/3/2006 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca> > >I'll take a stab. Mounting "cap down" means that gravity (and a bit of >engine vibration) will separate the main current contacts after the coil >is de-energized should the internal compression spring fail. Mounting the >other way would have the contacts potentially closing due gravity if the >spring failed with potential for all sorts of unhappy results. Okay, gravity is a player here (my earlier post spoke of g-forces which should have been qualified further to aerodynamic g-forces). Suppose we hypothesize that the spring is not going to fail. Now how does orientation affect operation? Bob . . . --------------------------------------------------------- < What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that > < the authority which determines whether there can be > < debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of > < scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests > < with experiment. > < --Lawrence M. Krauss > ---------------------------------------------------------


    Message 10


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    Time: 10:28:48 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Connectors vs. Straight Wire
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 09:40 AM 10/3/2006 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker@msbit.net> > > > There ARE wire bails for keeping d-subs together. My favorite for > > cable-to-cable d-subs is remove the jack-screw hardware and use > > tye-wraps to keep them together. > >Must be rarer than hens teeth....all I can find is the IDC D-sub >w/bail locks. Did find a bail lock kit...going price was $7 a pop >with one vendor down to $3. Your Ty Wraps look better all the >time. Take a look at page 17 of: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Connectors/ITT_Cannon/dsub_accessories.pdf The next greatest thing are Positronic's V series spring loaded slide latches. See page 10 of: http://www.connectpositronic.com/pdf/SubDAccess_C007RevB1.pdf Bob . . . --------------------------------------------------------- < What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that > < the authority which determines whether there can be > < debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of > < scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests > < with experiment. > < --Lawrence M. Krauss > ---------------------------------------------------------


    Message 11


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    Time: 10:58:11 AM PST US
    From: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: vhf antennas
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net> Ok, thats made everybody against the manufacturers,I will follow the mass. Thanks > > From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> > Date: 2006/10/03 Tue PM 01:08:28 EDT > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: vhf antennas > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> > > At 12:33 PM 10/3/2006 -0400, you wrote: > > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net> > > > >Hi ,I'm building an rv10,and I have contradictories informations about how > >install the antennas,the counselor and a couple of "masters" say clean the > >metal from any paint and install the antenna,but the manufacturer send it > >with a cork gasket(one of the best insulation ),to install . > >any logical for this. > >Thanks. > >Hugo > > > See: > > http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Antenna/Antenna_Installation.gif > > From some earlier posts: > > >A while back you had some words of wisdom for a person who'd asked about > >getting enough metal to metal contact for ground plane purposes with his > >comm antenna. You mentioned to him that riveting his doubler plates to the > >skin would provide plenty of contact when paint and other debris was > >squeezed out during the riveting process. I have a little different twist > >on this question. I made doubler plates to go inside the fuselage but don't > >really want to rivet them on. The number of fasteners that hold the > >antennas to the airplane will hold doublers to the skin and I don't see a > >need to rivet the doublers on. This however, could cause trouble. Since > >I've already primed the inside of the aluminum fuselage skin, would like to > >prime the doublers so they don't corrode when water gets between them and > >the fuselage skin and don't want to remove the primer from the skin......I > >fear I will have insufficient connection to get good ground plane action. > >The comm antennas come with a cork gasket that's supposed to go between the > >outside skin and the antenna so that limits ground plane connection on the > >outside skin (presently bare aluminum). Am I gonna have to bite the bullet > >and rivet the doublers to get some connection or ????(the doublers have > >nutplates riveted to them to accept the antenna fasteners). Any words of > >wisdom here? The antennas are the standard store bought COMANT bent whips. > >Thanks. > > > Welcome to the club. When somebody decides to design a new airplane, > they start with aero and power plant guys. Then come the structures > and processes folks. After awhile the systems folks put in fuel, > hydraulics and flight controls. When the 'airplane' is done, some > guy with radios, cabin entertainment systems, etc is told, "Okay, > you can have whatever space is left over . . . but don't CHANGE > anything." > > This approach to an HF antenna installation (without CHANGING > anything) has resulted in a situation where other equipment items > inside the all metal airplane are suffering huge interfering > energies from the HF transmitter. Had the structures and processes > guys been involved since day-one to make the metal serve as both > airplane and antenna, we'd have several $millions$ still in the > corporate pockets instead of blowing that cash on band-aid > fixes to delivered aircraft. > > Now, on a much smaller scale, you're presented with the same > kind of problem. The laws of physics are immutable. The primary, > long term, gas-tight connections between your antenna base and > airframe happen right under the head and nut of the fasteners. > > If you need a doubler, then it needs to be well bonded > to the airframe . . . and that means rivets or high pressure > joints between ground conductors. If you choose not to > rivet the doubler, you need to clean 2 extra surfaces before > installation. See: > > http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Antenna/Antenna_Installation.gif > > > If the doubler is riveted, then surfaces between doubler > and skin can be left as-manufactured but it wouldn't hurt > to clean these too. I'd pitch the cork gasket and go for a > thin bead of moisture sealant around outside edge of antenna > base that extrudes out to zero-thickness at time of > installation. PRESSURE and CLEANLINESS around the immediate > circumference of the mounting screws is where it all happens. > > > >Bob, > >Speaking of the magic (grounding the base) - looking at the > >Antenna_Installation.gif , > >I have seen toothed lock washers used between the doubler plate and skin. > >This was on a Cessna. The doubler plate was not riveted to the skin (it > >came with with the antenna replacement kit). The lock washer assured better > >el contact (grounding). They used externally toothed lock washers, as per > >attached. Maybe a better idea would be to use the external-internal toothed > >type washers (also attached). Opinions? > > We're really slice'n and dice'n mouse hairs here. Obviously > the goal is to get a low ohms connection between the antenna > base and the skin that is as good 10 years from now as it is > the day we bolt it on. This comes down to a few simple-ideas: > (1) pressure high enough to bring two clean surfaces into intimate > gas tight contact with each other and (2) exclusion of environmental > effects that include (a) contaminants and (b) loosening that work > against condition (1). > > Some designers embrace the idea that the toothed lockwashers > provide a multitude of very high pressure points . . . even to > the point of upsetting metal at the points of contact to achieve > (1). My concerns are that a toothed washer is a spacer between > the two surfaces that may contribute to initial joint quality (1) > but leaves the gap "open" for ingress of (a). > > In all of our bonding specs at RAC, the use of lockwashers is > never suggested. Self locking all metal nuts are the preferred > anti-loosening technology. In the sketch I published, 99% of the > magic needs to happen in the area just around the screw hole and > between skin and antenna base. All other "prepared" areas add > only marginally to the quality of the joint. > > Obviously, the "99% conductivity area" is of very small gap and > the only thing one might add is sealant or anti-moisture guckum (Like > silocone grease) to fill the tiny void around the periphery > of the 99% area to prevent entry of oxidizing agents. Beyond > that, maintainance of pressure over time is enhanced by use > of largest practical hardware torqued to upper limits and > secured with some form of locking technology . . . all metal > locknuts being the technology of choice. > > When we were selling contactors with treaded studs for fat wires, > the split-ring, steel washers supplied were discarded and replaced with > internal tooth, phosphor bronze lockwashers. The supplied steel > nuts were replaced with brass. Again, the lion's share of conductive > magic happens were the terminal comes down against the bottom nut. > The lockwasher and nut on top contributes to conductivity but > only a tiny fraction of the total. > > Bob. . . > > > > > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 12:19:31 PM PST US
    Subject: Strobe Wiring
    From: "Jeff Moreau" <jmoreau2@cox.net>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeff Moreau" <jmoreau2@cox.net> I am installing Whelen wingtip strobes on my RV8. I have installed a molex multi-pin plug at the wing root in the event that I ever have to remove the wings. Does anyone feel that this is inviting a problem with electrial "noise" in my system. I know that this is a shielded cable. I am a novice and would welcome any comments or suggestions. Jeff -------- Jeff Moreau RV8A Virginia Beach, VA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=65535#65535


    Message 13


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    Time: 12:38:50 PM PST US
    From: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
    Subject: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION)
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca> Well, "cap down" means that gravity (in the usual aerodynamic sense of positive G maneuvering loads) will assist the internal spring in separating the high current contacts when the coil energizing current is removed. This would help in opening sticking contacts due to dirt, deteriorated contact surfaces, and the like. Jim Oke Wpg., MB Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" > <nuckollsr@cox.net> > > At 09:48 AM 10/3/2006 -0500, you wrote: > >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca> >> >> I'll take a stab. Mounting "cap down" means that gravity (and a bit >> of engine vibration) will separate the main current contacts after >> the coil is de-energized should the internal compression spring fail. >> Mounting the other way would have the contacts potentially closing >> due gravity if the spring failed with potential for all sorts of >> unhappy results. > > Okay, gravity is a player here (my earlier post spoke of > g-forces which should have been qualified further to > aerodynamic g-forces). Suppose we hypothesize that the > spring is not going to fail. Now how does orientation > affect operation? > > Bob . . . >


    Message 14


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    Time: 01:10:27 PM PST US
    From: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
    Subject: Re: Strobe Wiring
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com> Jeff, Having installed a system with similar plugs etc, I could only say that I've never experienced electrical noise with the strobes active or not. They've been unplugged several times. Good plugs........ Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com Jeff Moreau wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeff Moreau" <jmoreau2@cox.net> > >I am installing Whelen wingtip strobes on my RV8. I have installed a molex multi-pin plug at the wing root in the event that I ever have to remove the wings. >Does anyone feel that this is inviting a problem with electrial "noise" in my system. I know that this is a shielded cable. I am a novice and would welcome any comments or suggestions. >Jeff > >-------- >Jeff Moreau >RV8A >Virginia Beach, VA > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=65535#65535 > > > >


    Message 15


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    Time: 01:38:59 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink
    From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net> Eric said: > I think it is time for someone with a little authority to clear this up. > My authority is so little that I have hidden it under one of the periods > in this posting. A prize awaits the one who finds it. > > 1) Relay mounting. Type 70 Stancor Rodgers White Emerson Tyco. See: > > http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Products/Datasheets/BM/STANCOR/Stancor_Industrial-Control_5760005.pdf > > So the manufacturer says, "mount plunger vertical, cap down". I checked > into the engineering data on this part and of course the corporate > conglomeratization has destroyed the engineering knowledge that built the > part. The manufacturer PROMISED they'd get back to me.....It's not DO-160 bubela. And it's only 122 deg F max operating temp. Etc. etc. Bob replied: > Why would you suppose they would make this recommendation? Is the engineering knowledge behind the recommendation so esoteric that we cannot deduce it for ourselves? I assume we can figure it out. My analysis is that the type-70 contactor has poor water-tightness (especially around the electrical terminals). This is a bit less of a problem with the cap down. Also, when energized the plunger contacts an iron stop that is part of the magnetic circuit when closed. There is no room in the space and the plunger MUST be allowed to contact the stop or the coil will draw excessive current, etc.--The cap-down orientation prevents accumulation of debris in the plunger-stop space. So my vote is that gravity is the lesser issue. On the other hand the contactor was designed for cars, not airplanes--so who knows what they considered. > > "Everything you've learned in school as "obvious" becomes less and less > obvious as you begin to study the universe. For example, there are no > solids in the universe. There's not even a suggestion of a solid. There > are no absolute continuums. There are no surfaces. There are no straight > lines." > - R. Buckminster Fuller Bob . . . > Interesting quotation . . . I'm fond of quotations > that offer simple-ideas of easily discovered utility. > How would you propose we use the learned gentleman's > to guide our deliberations? > Bob, I like this quotation because Fuller suggests casting out "learned" assumptions and looking at problems without preconceptions. This is more philosophical than practical of course, but I like the idea that what we should begin by assuming everything we know is wrong. -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones@charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=65550#65550


    Message 16


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    Time: 02:08:55 PM PST US
    From: Dave N6030X <N6030X@DaveMorris.com>
    Subject: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave N6030X <N6030X@DaveMorris.com> At 03:37 PM 10/3/2006, you wrote: >Bob, I like this quotation because Fuller suggests casting out >"learned" assumptions and looking at problems without >preconceptions. This is more philosophical than practical of course, >but I like the idea that what we should begin by assuming everything >we know is wrong. Or at least more complicated than we were first taught. For instance in that Physics 101 class when the teacher (foolishly) said "assume this is done in a vacuum and there is no drag". Then you find out the earth is not a perfect sphere, the adiabatic lapse rate is not uniform, electrons do not flow from positive to negative, and so on. It's really depressing ;) Dave Morris


    Message 17


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    Time: 02:55:06 PM PST US
    Subject: Pull to low
    From: "N395V" <n395v@hughes.net>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "N395V" <n395v@hughes.net> Is the term "pull to low" synonomous with connect to ground? -------- Milt N395V F1 Rocket Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=65568#65568


    Message 18


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    Time: 03:52:37 PM PST US
    From: "raymondj" <raymondj@frontiernet.net>
    Subject: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION)
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "raymondj" <raymondj@frontiernet.net> Mr. Nuckolls, I am disappointed and saddened to see you engaging in the "I've got a secret" style of information dissemination. If it is in the archive, please say so. If you have the answer, please give it. Cordially, Raymond Julian -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 12:11 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION) --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 09:48 AM 10/3/2006 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca> > >I'll take a stab. Mounting "cap down" means that gravity (and a bit of >engine vibration) will separate the main current contacts after the coil >is de-energized should the internal compression spring fail. Mounting the >other way would have the contacts potentially closing due gravity if the >spring failed with potential for all sorts of unhappy results. Okay, gravity is a player here (my earlier post spoke of g-forces which should have been qualified further to aerodynamic g-forces). Suppose we hypothesize that the spring is not going to fail. Now how does orientation affect operation? Bob . . . --------------------------------------------------------- < What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that > < the authority which determines whether there can be > < debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of > < scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests > < with experiment. > < --Lawrence M. Krauss > ---------------------------------------------------------


    Message 19


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    Time: 04:23:41 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Pull to low
    From: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net> That's probably a safe way to interpret that direction.. As a point of note, there are several different specification standards for the digital electrical signaling that is used to make one device communicate with another. Some examples are TTL, LVTTL, SSTL.. Each one may have a somewhat different definition for what voltage level is required on an input for the device to interpret the signal as a logic "low" (or zero). For many (most) applications, grounding an input will be interpreted as a logic low signal. Some interfaces allow an input to float up to 600mV (or higher) and still be interpreted as a low. Hope that helps.. Regards, Matt- > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "N395V" <n395v@hughes.net> > > Is the term "pull to low" synonomous with connect to ground? > > -------- > Milt > N395V > F1 Rocket > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=65568#65568 > >


    Message 20


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    Time: 06:56:31 PM PST US
    From: Dave N6030X <N6030X@DaveMorris.com>
    Subject: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION)
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave N6030X <N6030X@DaveMorris.com> It's a paedagogic style. One that has fallen out of favor recently and has been replaced with "when you take the test, the answer will be ...." I was trained old-school, and I like the way Bob teaches. It encourages independent thought. Dave Morris At 05:51 PM 10/3/2006, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "raymondj" <raymondj@frontiernet.net> > >Mr. Nuckolls, > > I am disappointed and saddened to see you engaging in the "I've got a >secret" style of information dissemination. > > If it is in the archive, please say so. > > If you have the answer, please give it. > >Cordially, >Raymond Julian > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert >L. Nuckolls, III >Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 12:11 PM >To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink >(CORRECTION) > > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" ><nuckollsr@cox.net> > >At 09:48 AM 10/3/2006 -0500, you wrote: > > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca> > > > >I'll take a stab. Mounting "cap down" means that gravity (and a bit of > >engine vibration) will separate the main current contacts after the coil > >is de-energized should the internal compression spring fail. Mounting the > >other way would have the contacts potentially closing due gravity if the > >spring failed with potential for all sorts of unhappy results. > > Okay, gravity is a player here (my earlier post spoke of > g-forces which should have been qualified further to > aerodynamic g-forces). Suppose we hypothesize that the > spring is not going to fail. Now how does orientation > affect operation? > > Bob . . . > > > --------------------------------------------------------- > < What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that > > < the authority which determines whether there can be > > < debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of > > < scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests > > < with experiment. > > < --Lawrence M. Krauss > > --------------------------------------------------------- > >


    Message 21


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    Time: 07:01:09 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 01:37 PM 10/3/2006 -0700, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net> > >Eric said: > <snip> > > So the manufacturer says, "mount plunger vertical, cap down". I checked > > into the engineering data on this part and of course the corporate > > conglomeratization has destroyed the engineering knowledge that built the > > part. The manufacturer PROMISED they'd get back to me.....It's not > DO-160 bubela. And it's only 122 deg F max operating temp. Etc. etc. > > >Bob replied: > > Why would you suppose they would make this recommendation? Is the > engineering knowledge behind the recommendation so esoteric that we > cannot deduce it for ourselves? > > >I assume we can figure it out. My analysis is that the type-70 contactor >has poor water-tightness (especially around the electrical terminals). >This is a bit less of a problem with the cap down. Agreed > Also, when energized the plunger contacts an iron stop that is part of > the magnetic circuit when closed. There is no room in the space and the > plunger MUST be allowed to contact the stop or the coil will draw > excessive current, etc. Plunger position or even the presence of a plunger does not influence static coil current. >--The cap-down orientation prevents accumulation of debris in the >plunger-stop space. So my vote is that gravity is the lesser issue. On the >other hand the contactor was designed for cars, not airplanes--so who >knows what they considered. Having disassembled more than a dozen of these devices over the years, I think we can make a pretty good guess. The springs are not real strong so the force of gravity would add a significant aiding or opposing force depending on orientation. This wouldn't be much of a concern for getting the critter closed . . . but contact spreading velocity would probably see a larger delta due to orientation than for decay rates of the magnetic field in the coil. I'll see if I can figure out a way to go measure that sometime. Also, the bore of the coil bobbin is plastic. More than one solenoid has become erratic due to erosion of bobbin interior due to a horizontal sliding core. In the case of contact spreading velocity for improved contact life, cap-down helps. For bobbin erosion, either vertical orientation would be okay. It MIGHT be that they considered moisture effects . . . it's NOT a sealed relay and a non-sealed housing hit with cool splash WILL suck in water. Better that it's pooled in the cap than allowed to drip down over contacts, spring and plunger. If we were using these devices in an industrial control situation with hundreds of operations per day (with expectation for achieving a HIGH percentage of rated life), then religious observance of orientation cap-down would probably yield an increase in service life. Given that these devices in light aircraft operate perhaps a couple hundred times per year (and at loads much lighter than rated) the probability is that most of us will experience a maintenance event on these contactors due to environmental effects as opposed to wearing effects. > > > > "Everything you've learned in school as "obvious" becomes less and less > > obvious as you begin to study the universe. For example, there are no > > solids in the universe. There's not even a suggestion of a solid. There > > are no absolute continuums. There are no surfaces. There are no straight > > lines." > > - R. Buckminster Fuller > > >Bob . . . > > > Interesting quotation . . . I'm fond of quotations > > that offer simple-ideas of easily discovered utility. > > How would you propose we use the learned gentleman's > > to guide our deliberations? > > > > >Bob, I like this quotation because Fuller suggests casting out "learned" >assumptions and looking at problems without preconceptions. This is more >philosophical than practical of course, but I like the idea that what we >should begin by assuming everything we know is wrong. Agreed . . . and according to some demonstrably practical folks like Dr. Virgil Elings, one should always proceed forward with a fine attunement to actions that are not helping or even worse, going in the wrong direction. I made his one-sided and limited acquaintance when a reader pointed me to this interview of Dr. Elings at: http://webcast.ucsd.edu:8080/ramgen/UCSD_TV/11762.rm the audio on this presentation was pretty poor. I've done some post processing on it and placed a temporary copy at: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Temp/Virgil_Elings-Look_at_the_Big_Picture.mp3 I believe both Fuller and Elings would agree that one of mankind's biggest impediments to progress is the blind acceptance of preconceptions coupled with equally blind obedience to those who would hand out pre-conceptions be they in the form of bad science or bad plans. There is risk that some folks grab onto an idea like the Fuller quotation with a liberal dose of fundamental attribution error. Like: "Nothing is real, nothing is what it seems to be. Everything is irrelevant. Everything I do is irrelevant. I am irrelevant. Mr. Fuller said so." That's why I gravitate more toward folks like Kettering, Kelvin, and most recently Elings. Their ideas don't take much interpretation. They really jump out at you. They encourage healthy skepticism and stand up well to the repeatable experiment. Bob . . .


    Message 22


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    Time: 07:33:51 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION)
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 05:51 PM 10/3/2006 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "raymondj" <raymondj@frontiernet.net> > >Mr. Nuckolls, > > I am disappointed and saddened to see you engaging in the "I've got a >secret" style of information dissemination. > > If it is in the archive, please say so. > > If you have the answer, please give it. I'm disappointed that you're disappointed. When was the last time you sat down in a class where the instructor walks in and says, "We have a test next Friday, the answers are on the board. Class dismissed." If there is no discussion, then there's no measure of the exchange and retention of ideas. My first teaching job was at Great Lakes Naval Training Base 40 years ago. Instructors I worked with habitually taught to the test questions. I refused to do it then and I'm not going to start now. Patience my friend. It's not my intent to be secretive or obtuse. Bob . . .


    Message 23


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    Time: 07:48:52 PM PST US
    Subject: [ Larry Rosen ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
    From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com> A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> Lists: AeroElectric-List Subject: Modified Z13-20 for Peer Review http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/LarryRosen@comcast.net.10.03.2006/index.html ---------------------------------------------------------- o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures@matronics.com ----------------------------------------------------------


    Message 24


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    Time: 08:48:04 PM PST US
    From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
    Subject: Modified Z13-20 for Peer Review
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> I am currently building a Vans RV-10 and I am to the point where I will soon need to start the electrical wiring. After thinking through the various options for the electrical configuration, I decided a single battery dual alternator design based on Z-13/20 is what I am going to put into my airplane. Some of the factors into the decision is redundancy and reliability for my all electric panel, along with my analysis of the loads for everything I "want" on the e-bus. My load analysis shows a continuous load of 12 amps with a maximum load (no diversity) of 25 amps. I modified the base Z diagram to accommodate a battery that will be mounted in the tail cone. If you would take a look at my modified Z-13/20 design and comment back it would be greatly appreciated. Modifications to the base diagram are highlighted in yellow. The drawing is in pdf format and you can find it here <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Electic/Elect_R1.pdf> or a write up and link can be found here <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Electic/index.html> Thanks -- Larry Rosen RV-10 #356 http://lrosen.nerv10.com


    Message 25


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    Time: 10:03:54 PM PST US
    From: "Bob McCallum" <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
    Subject: Re: [ Larry Rosen ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob McCallum" <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca> The first thing that jumps out Larry is that the starter contactor is unlikely to ever pull in with the warning light connected in series with the start button and the coil. Bob McC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Email List Photo Shares" <pictures@matronics.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 10:47 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: [ Larry Rosen ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com> > > > A new Email List Photo Share is available: > > Poster: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> > > Lists: AeroElectric-List > > Subject: Modified Z13-20 for Peer Review > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/LarryRosen@comcast.net.10.03.2006/index.html > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > o Main Photo Share Index > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > > o Submitting a Photo Share > > If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the > following information along with your email message and files: > > 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: > 2) Your Full Name: > 3) Your Email Address: > 4) One line Subject description: > 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: > 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: > > Email the information above and your files and photos to: > > pictures@matronics.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > >


    Message 26


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    Time: 10:12:38 PM PST US
    From: "Bob McCallum" <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
    Subject: Re: Modified Z13-20 for Peer Review
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob McCallum" <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca> Ooops pushed send too quickly. The first thing that jumps out Larry is that the starter contactor is unlikely to ever pull in with the warning light connected in series with the start button and the coil. Same comment applies to contactor used to engage "E" bus in series with its warning light. The warning lights need to be from the switch/coil junctions to ground and the switches need to apply voltage directly to the coils. Bob McC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Rosen" <LarryRosen@comcast.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 11:47 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Modified Z13-20 for Peer Review > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> > > I am currently building a Vans RV-10 and I am to the point where I will > soon need to start the electrical wiring. After thinking through the > various options for the electrical configuration, I decided a single > battery dual alternator design based on Z-13/20 is what I am going to > put into my airplane. Some of the factors into the decision is > redundancy and reliability for my all electric panel, along with my > analysis of the loads for everything I "want" on the e-bus. My load > analysis shows a continuous load of 12 amps with a maximum load (no > diversity) of 25 amps. I modified the base Z diagram to accommodate a > battery that will be mounted in the tail cone. > > If you would take a look at my modified Z-13/20 design and comment back > it would be greatly appreciated. > Modifications to the base diagram are highlighted in yellow. > The drawing is in pdf format and you can find it here > <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Electic/Elect_R1.pdf> > or a write up and link can be found here > <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Electic/index.html> > > Thanks > > -- > > Larry Rosen > RV-10 #356 > http://lrosen.nerv10.com > >


    Message 27


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    Time: 11:45:02 PM PST US
    From: "raymondj" <raymondj@frontiernet.net>
    Subject: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION)
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "raymondj" <raymondj@frontiernet.net> Mr. Nuckolls, It is my opinion that your particular style of teaching is appropriate for students that are only marginally interested in the question and in seeking the solutions. I make the assumption that those who subscribe to the list and take the time to read and reply to the list have a high level of motivation. I would be served better by the presentation of as much of the available data as practical at the beginning of the solution process. Thank you for taking the time to respond. Cordially, Raymond Julian -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 9:08 PM Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Relays 'G's" skunk stink (CORRECTION) --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 05:51 PM 10/3/2006 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "raymondj" <raymondj@frontiernet.net> > >Mr. Nuckolls, > > I am disappointed and saddened to see you engaging in the "I've got a >secret" style of information dissemination. > > If it is in the archive, please say so. > > If you have the answer, please give it. I'm disappointed that you're disappointed. When was the last time you sat down in a class where the instructor walks in and says, "We have a test next Friday, the answers are on the board. Class dismissed." If there is no discussion, then there's no measure of the exchange and retention of ideas. My first teaching job was at Great Lakes Naval Training Base 40 years ago. Instructors I worked with habitually taught to the test questions. I refused to do it then and I'm not going to start now. Patience my friend. It's not my intent to be secretive or obtuse. Bob . . .




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