Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:57 AM - Re: Dead Horses......Split Rockers (Dustin Paulson)
2. 05:52 AM - Re: Dynon - hall effect sensor issue (Eric Newton)
3. 07:29 AM - Re: hot heatsinks (Tim & Diane Shankland)
4. 02:37 PM - Back-up Alternator (JACK LOCKAMY)
5. 03:20 PM - Re:Microair 769 (ron dewees)
6. 06:35 PM - Re: Back-up Alternator (Robert Sultzbach)
7. 06:37 PM - Re: Back-up Alternator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 07:56 PM - Re: Re:Microair 769 (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
9. 09:49 PM - Re: Re:Microair 769 (jerb)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Dead Horses......Split Rockers |
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Dynon - hall effect sensor issue |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric Newton" <enewton57@cableone.net>
I don't have an answer but have a question for you- I getting ready to start
my wiring and was wondering exactly how you mount the Hall effect sensor.
Thanks for any advise.
Eric Newton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 10:57 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dynon - hall effect sensor issue
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Pete Howell"
> <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>
> Hello,
>
> I have a Dynon EMS-D10 unit in my RV-9A. I am using a hall effect sensor
> from a GRT EIS to measure current in the main wire from the battery to the
> main bus. This sensor is supported by Dynon and it works well with one
> glitch. Every 10 seconds (like clockwork), the amps reading shoots up to
> +99 amps for 1 second and then drifts back down to the correct value. In
> the 10 seconds that the correct value is displayed, I can vary the load
> and
> see accurate results on the meter. Any thoughts? There should be
> nothing
> that is sending a high current spike thru the cable.
>
> I have a message into Dynon, but thought I would try here, too. - Thanks
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: hot heatsinks |
Brian,
I had the same concern, attached is a picture of my solution. I would be
concerned if you are covering the heat sink with a rubber boot or
insulation because that would greatly reduce its effectiveness. The
picture is of a plastic cover that protects both the heat sink and the
connections from accidental contact with other conductors.
Tim Shankland
Brian Meyette wrote:
> I have a couple schottky diodes with heatsinks. Due to the diode
> package design, the base is the cathode. This in turn means that the
> heatsink is electrically hot. For all my other exposed +12v
> connections, I have covered them either with a rubber boot or multiple
> layers of liquid insulation. I am concerned about these heatsinks,
> and the +12v passing through them, being exposed. It would defeat the
> purpose of the heatsink if I cover them with liquid insulation. I
> was thinking perhaps I could build a perforated Plexiglas or
> fiberglass box to put over them. What do you electrical gurus think
> about this situation with exposed heatsinks that are +12v?
>
> brian
>
> http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Back-up Alternator |
Last Thursday, after 245 hours on my RV-7A (0-320/160 HP), I suffered my
SECOND, Van's 60-AMP, internally regulated alternator, failure! (The
first alternator failed at 160 hrs!) I have a cooling blast tube aimed
at the rear of the alternator and still don't know why these alternators
keep failing. Since it was a NAPA rebuilt, Lester alternator #14684
with a three-year warranty, I was able to get the alternator replaced
today for FREE!
I fly over mountainous terrain, IFR and occasionally at night, For this
reason, I am concerned with alternator failures and have decided to
install a back-up alternator on the un-used vacuum pump pad on my
Lycoming 0-320/conical mount engine....
Question: How much does the B&C SD-20 weigh? I normally run with about
14-18 AMP loads and figure I need the SD-20 instead of the SD-8 (8-10
AMPS but lighter weight?) to have a reliable back-up alternator for my
electrical load during night/IFR flight.
Question: I have my -7A wired using Bob's Z-11 architecture with a
Van's 60-AMP internally regulated alternator. If I purchase and
install the B&C SD-20 alternator, do I connect it to the Dynon EMS-10
firewall mounted shunt or connect the SD-20 to the Odyssey PC-680
battery directly in case the Van's recommended alternator takes another
crap? Spoke with Gus at Van's on Thursday and wasn't able to determine
if there was a problem with their wiring directions or if the #14684
alternators were the problem here.
BTW.... the Odyssey PC-680 battery kept me flying for approx. 1:45
minutes after the alternator failed. I was using flight following as
usual and informed them that I had an alternator failure and would
prefer to use the IDENT button on my King KT-76A transponder to
acknowledge freq changes and/or traffic calls rather than use the juice
in the battery when transmitting on the Comm-1 radio. This worked
extremely well and I wasn't forced to use un-necessary volts using my
transmit button on Comm-1. Using this method of acknowledgement, I
was able to conserve valuable battery voltage for almost 2-hours and I
landed with 11.5 volts in the PC-680. NOTE: I was prepared to squawk
7600 and had informed 'Center' that if I went NORDO (No Radio), I would
squawk 7600, and would be expecting light signals (flashing green
light?) from Camarillo Tower for landing permission. If you inform
Center of your problem, they will assist. When I first informed
Albuquerque Center of my alternator problem, the controller asked if I
was declaring an emergency. My reply was "No... I have enough battery
voltage to maintain flight (dual Slick Magnetos) and MONITOR Comm-1". I
was switched to more than 6-7 different sector controllers and not once
was I required to key the radio... just hit the IDENT button on the
transponder and each controller acknowledged.... "Ident observed".
Saves the juice.... I had the TRIO Avionics A/P, ALTRAK ALT-HOLD A/P,
ICOM-A200 VHF Transceiver, DYNON EFIS-D10, DYNON EMS-D10 Engine monitor,
King KT-76A Transponder and AvMAP EKP-IV Moving map GPS running the
entire time....
Bottom Line: Use the IDENT button on your transponder to acknowledge
radio calls rather than transmit on the radio and use valuable battery
reserves.
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
RV-7A N174JL 245 hrs
www.jacklockamy.com
jacklockamy@verizon,net
Message 5
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ron dewees <rdewees@mindspring.com>
I have had my Microair 760 installed and running for almost two years
and concur with several of the results others have mentioned-- The
transmitter seems to function adequately with it's 5 or 7 watts and I
have no complaints with it. The receiver audio appears to be very
selective though. Many signals are clear and easily understandable,
while others-- towers and ATC are often distorted and difficult to
understand. I have tried various headsets and my Lightspeed ANR is the
best but there are still 30 percent of signals that are very difficult
to understand. I wonder if the percent of distortion in the audio
amplifier is high or there is an overdriven stage in the receiver
causing problems. I read a great review of the radio before I bought it
but nothing in the last few years. I did notice that when I was trying
it out on the ground without the engine running it was very voltage
sensitive. If the input voltage was less than 12 or so the receiver
volume was very low to almost unaudable. It seems almost linear in it's
volume to voltage response between 12 and 14 volts. In the plane the
panel voltmeter reads 14 so low voltage is no issue. Wonder if anyone
has ideas on distorted audio. The open-mike intercom is a whole other
issue. If both headsets aren't the same impedance one hears loud audio
and the other can't hear well at all. Guess it's one of the compromises
of a cheap integrated intecom.
Thanks
Ron
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Back-up Alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Sultzbach <endspeed@yahoo.com>
Hi Jack,
The SD-20 weighs 5.72 lbs. according to the B&C
drawing SD20 last revised 2/24/03.
Bob Sultzbach
--- JACK LOCKAMY <jacklockamy@verizon.net> wrote:
> Last Thursday, after 245 hours on my RV-7A
> (0-320/160 HP), I suffered my SECOND, Van's 60-AMP,
> internally regulated alternator, failure! (The
> first alternator failed at 160 hrs!) I have a
> cooling blast tube aimed at the rear of the
> alternator and still don't know why these
> alternators keep failing. Since it was a NAPA
> rebuilt, Lester alternator #14684 with a three-year
> warranty, I was able to get the alternator replaced
> today for FREE!
>
> I fly over mountainous terrain, IFR and occasionally
> at night, For this reason, I am concerned with
> alternator failures and have decided to install a
> back-up alternator on the un-used vacuum pump pad on
> my Lycoming 0-320/conical mount engine....
>
> Question: How much does the B&C SD-20 weigh? I
> normally run with about 14-18 AMP loads and figure I
> need the SD-20 instead of the SD-8 (8-10 AMPS but
> lighter weight?) to have a reliable back-up
> alternator for my electrical load during night/IFR
> flight.
>
> Question: I have my -7A wired using Bob's Z-11
> architecture with a Van's 60-AMP internally
> regulated alternator. If I purchase and install
> the B&C SD-20 alternator, do I connect it to the
> Dynon EMS-10 firewall mounted shunt or connect the
> SD-20 to the Odyssey PC-680 battery directly in case
> the Van's recommended alternator takes another crap?
> Spoke with Gus at Van's on Thursday and wasn't able
> to determine if there was a problem with their
> wiring directions or if the #14684 alternators were
> the problem here.
>
> BTW.... the Odyssey PC-680 battery kept me flying
> for approx. 1:45 minutes after the alternator
> failed. I was using flight following as usual and
> informed them that I had an alternator failure and
> would prefer to use the IDENT button on my King
> KT-76A transponder to acknowledge freq changes
> and/or traffic calls rather than use the juice in
> the battery when transmitting on the Comm-1 radio.
> This worked extremely well and I wasn't forced to
> use un-necessary volts using my transmit button on
> Comm-1. Using this method of acknowledgement, I
> was able to conserve valuable battery voltage for
> almost 2-hours and I landed with 11.5 volts in the
> PC-680. NOTE: I was prepared to squawk 7600 and
> had informed 'Center' that if I went NORDO (No
> Radio), I would squawk 7600, and would be expecting
> light signals (flashing green light?) from Camarillo
> Tower for landing permission. If you inform Center
> of your problem, they will assist. When I first
> informed Albuquerque Center of my alternator
> problem, the controller asked if I was declaring an
> emergency. My reply was "No... I have enough
> battery voltage to maintain flight (dual Slick
> Magnetos) and MONITOR Comm-1". I was switched to
> more than 6-7 different sector controllers and not
> once was I required to key the radio... just hit the
> IDENT button on the transponder and each controller
> acknowledged.... "Ident observed". Saves the
> juice.... I had the TRIO Avionics A/P, ALTRAK
> ALT-HOLD A/P, ICOM-A200 VHF Transceiver, DYNON
> EFIS-D10, DYNON EMS-D10 Engine monitor, King KT-76A
> Transponder and AvMAP EKP-IV Moving map GPS running
> the entire time....
>
> Bottom Line: Use the IDENT button on your
> transponder to acknowledge radio calls rather than
> transmit on the radio and use valuable battery
> reserves.
>
> Jack Lockamy
> Camarillo, CA
> RV-7A N174JL 245 hrs
> www.jacklockamy.com
> jacklockamy@verizon,net
Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low
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Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Back-up Alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Back-up Alternator
Last Thursday, after 245 hours on my RV-7A (0-320/160 HP), I suffered my
SECOND, Van's 60-AMP, internally regulated alternator, failure! (The first
alternator failed at 160 hrs!) I have a cooling blast tube aimed at the
rear of the alternator and still don't know why these alternators keep
failing. Since it was a NAPA rebuilt, Lester alternator #14684 with a
three-year warranty, I was able to get the alternator replaced today for FREE!
It's nice that the expense is so accommodating . . . but
a boat-load of no-cost alternators may well forever fall
short of design goals.
I fly over mountainous terrain, IFR and occasionally at night, For this
reason, I am concerned with alternator failures and have decided to install
a back-up alternator on the un-used vacuum pump pad on my Lycoming
0-320/conical mount engine....
It's been a perennial recommendation here on the List
that no vacuum pump pad should go wasting with a cover
plate on it.
Question: How much does the B&C SD-20 weigh? I normally run with about
14-18 AMP loads and figure I need the SD-20 instead of the SD-8 (8-10 AMPS
but lighter weight?) to have a reliable back-up alternator for my
electrical load during night/IFR flight.
. . . but why support "normal" loads? How much stuff do you
really need during the en route phase of flight to get airport
of intended destination in sight with a fully charged battery
to assist the standby alternator in running whatever electro-whizzies
you wish for descent and approach to landing?
Question: I have my -7A wired using Bob's Z-11 architecture with a Van's
60-AMP internally regulated alternator. If I purchase and install the B&C
SD-20 alternator, do I connect it to the Dynon EMS-10 firewall mounted
shunt or connect the SD-20 to the Odyssey PC-680 battery directly in case
the Van's recommended alternator takes another crap? Spoke with Gus at
Van's on Thursday and wasn't able to determine if there was a problem with
their wiring directions or if the #14684 alternators were the problem here.
Why are you choosing to stay with the brand/model of alternator
sold/recommended by Van's? We KNOW that other brands bolted to
Lycoming engines have produced exemplary service records. Aside
from weak design and/or poor workmanship, there no reason that
an alternator should not run for TBO on the engine. It would seem
prudent that the first order of the day is to replace a demonstrably
poor performing alternator.
BTW.... the Odyssey PC-680 battery kept me flying for approx. 1:45 minutes
after the alternator failed. I was using flight following as usual and
informed them that I had an alternator failure and would prefer to use the
IDENT button on my King KT-76A transponder to acknowledge freq changes
and/or traffic calls rather than use the juice in the battery when
transmitting on the Comm-1 radio. This worked extremely well and I wasn't
forced to use un-necessary volts using my transmit button on
Comm-1. Using this method of acknowledgement, I was able to conserve
valuable battery voltage for almost 2-hours and I landed with 11.5 volts in
the PC-680.
The energy needed to occasionally transmit is a trivial
part of the total required for comfortable continuation
of flight. While "helpful" to a tiny degree it was not
necessary.
If you are running Z-11, what was your predicted battery
only endurance value?
NOTE: I was prepared to squawk 7600 and had informed 'Center' that if I
went NORDO (No Radio), I would squawk 7600, and would be expecting light
signals (flashing green light?) from Camarillo Tower for landing
permission. If you inform Center of your problem, they will assist. When
I first informed Albuquerque Center of my alternator problem, the
controller asked if I was declaring an emergency. My reply was "No... I
have enough battery voltage to maintain flight (dual Slick Magnetos) and
MONITOR Comm-1". I was switched to more than 6-7 different sector
controllers and not once was I required to key the radio... just hit the
IDENT button on the transponder and each controller acknowledged.... "Ident
observed". Saves the juice.... I had the TRIO Avionics A/P, ALTRAK
ALT-HOLD A/P, ICOM-A200 VHF Transceiver, DYNON EFIS-D10, DYNON EMS-D10
Engine monitor, King KT-76A Transponder and AvMAP EKP-IV Moving map GPS
running the entire time....
Bottom Line: Use the IDENT button on your transponder to acknowledge radio
calls rather than transmit on the radio and use valuable battery reserves.
Your experience was much more tense than it needed
to be. You have too much electro-stuff running in the
endurance mode. Your choice to use IDENT for
communication with the ground was immaterial to the
outcome of your experience. The fact that you were
so worried about outcome that you felt compelled to save a
few watt-minutes of energy suggests that the outcome
was not a sure bet in your own mind . . . i.e. you were
not sure by reason of satisfied design goals that the
battery would get you there sans alternator.
I respectfully suggest that a killobuck SD-20 installation
that adds about 8# to the airplane is not as practical as
spending a similar amount of money for a main alternator
with an exemplary track record (no or small weigh penalty).
Back it up with an 8A alternator (also exemplary track
record) for a 3.5# weight penalty. Tailor loads
on the endurance bus so in the now unlikely event that
the main alternator craps, you have proven, designed-in
capabilities to get where you want to go with nary
second thought about punching the MIC button to tell
the ground, "everything is cool."
Main alternator performance is fundamental to the "no-
sweat design" along with a well maintained RG battery. Piling
a high dollar BandAid on a system with demonstrably
flawed fundamentals is only going to have you flying along
wondering when the "next interesting flight" is going to
happen. How about designing for "never"?
Bob . . .
Message 8
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In a message dated 10/28/2006 5:23:53 PM Central Daylight Time,
rdewees@mindspring.com writes:
If the input voltage was less than 12 or so the receiver
volume was very low to almost unaudable. It seems almost linear in it's
volume to voltage response between 12 and 14 volts. In the plane the
panel voltmeter reads 14 so low voltage is no issue.
>>>
Now THAT is very interesting- since my 760 is on the E-bus, it's normal
supply voltage is typically 12.5 volts. Next time I'm trying to communicate with
another plane and the reception is crappy, I'll flip the e-bus switch and see
if things improve- good observation!
Mark
Message 9
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: jerb <ulflyer@verizon.net>
Unplug the mikes of your head sets, see if it makes any
difference. Many intercoms VOX turn the audio input on for both
mikes at the same time rather than just the one activating the
VOX. The makes the background noise floor twice as high. Using a
head set with a dynamic mikes will substantially increase the
noise, headsets the electret mike made a world of
difference. Wonder how I learned this....
jerb
At 05:19 PM 10/28/2006, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ron dewees <rdewees@mindspring.com>
>
>I have had my Microair 760 installed and running for almost two
>years and concur with several of the results others have mentioned--
>The transmitter seems to function adequately with it's 5 or 7 watts
>and I have no complaints with it. The receiver audio appears to be
>very selective though. Many signals are clear and easily
>understandable, while others-- towers and ATC are often distorted
>and difficult to understand. I have tried various headsets and my
>Lightspeed ANR is the best but there are still 30 percent of signals
>that are very difficult to understand. I wonder if the percent of
>distortion in the audio amplifier is high or there is an overdriven
>stage in the receiver causing problems. I read a great review of
>the radio before I bought it but nothing in the last few years. I
>did notice that when I was trying it out on the ground without the
>engine running it was very voltage sensitive. If the input voltage
>was less than 12 or so the receiver volume was very low to almost
>unaudable. It seems almost linear in it's volume to voltage
>response between 12 and 14 volts. In the plane the panel voltmeter
>reads 14 so low voltage is no issue. Wonder if anyone has ideas on
>distorted audio. The open-mike intercom is a whole other
>issue. If both headsets aren't the same impedance one hears loud
>audio and the other can't hear well at all. Guess it's one of the
>compromises of a cheap integrated intecom. Thanks
>Ron
>
>>
>
>
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