Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:48 AM - Re: Van's copper foil NAV antenna (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 04:52 AM - Re: Re: RF ground (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 05:44 AM - Re: Transorb voltage for 14V system (Peter Mather)
4. 11:38 AM - Who's The Buzz Box Producer (Jerry Grimmonpre)
5. 11:47 AM - LED extension (Carlos Trigo)
6. 11:53 AM - Re: Who's The Buzz Box Producer (Dj Merrill)
7. 12:15 PM - Re: Who's The Buzz Box Producer (Tim Olson)
8. 03:40 PM - Definition of Alternator B-lead? (John Swartout)
9. 04:45 PM - Re: Definition of Alternator B-lead? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 05:20 PM - Re: Definition of Alternator B-lead? (Matt Prather)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Van's copper foil NAV antenna |
At 04:03 PM 11/6/2006 -0600, you wrote:
><frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> I also posted in the Vanairforce.
>
>I installed the Van's NAV antenna which is a 24" *0.5 strip of copper
>foil glued to the bottom surface of the right wingtip.
>
>I installed my GNS 430 but could not hear the NAV on the ground with the
>VOR beacon about a mile away.
>
>Apparently the beacon should have been easy to pick up. I have a
>splitter to generate the G/S from the same antenna.
>
>Do these antenna's actually work????
>
>I should have checked continuity from the radio to antenna but of course
>I did'nt!
A wet string will "work" . . . the operative consideration
is "how well" fir the missions in which you plan to
use your airplane. For users who fly in densely populated
VOR environments, perhaps a wet string works "great" . . . for
folks that fly the long stretch Victor airways and
need optimized fore/aft response patterns from their
VOR antennas, it's another matter.
If Van offers the antenna, it's likely that a number of
folks have installed it and found it "useful" for the
flying they do.
If it were my airplane, I'm not sure I even have
VOR capability on board other than to meet some
regulatory requirements for certain types of flight.
In this case, the wet string (or perhaps Van's less
than optimum antenna) would suffice. GPS would most
certainly be my primary and backup radio navigation
systems.
Bottom line is that you'll have to try it and see
what it does for you.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 2
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At 05:34 PM 11/6/2006 -0500, you wrote:
><rdunhamtn@hotmail.com>
>
>Sorry for the confusion.
>
>I'm not trying to solve an RFI problem. I'm setting up the radios and want
>maxiumum transmit and receive abilities and clear audio on both ends. I
>was thinking that RF grounds might make the "system" (XCOM/Sonex or
>CB/F150) more effecient. I was wondering if braided wire bonding straps
>were really better than stranded wire... and if so, why??? And what's the
>difference in bonding between VHF (air) versus HF (truck) as far as
>technic is concerned. I'm just one of those wierdos that thinks it's cool
>to hear a guy in the pattern in Fort Payne, Alabama when I'm in the
>pattern in Sweetwater, Tennessee :O)
What are you going to "bond" and to "where"?
When we qualify various appliances both for their
potential roles as antagonists and as victims
the equipment is tested "as installed" in the
airplane.
If you find that there is value in adding a bonding
strap to cure a problem, then this is indicative of
poor appliance design and deficient testing.
Unless the manufacturer's installation instructions
call for extra-ordinary additions of RF bonding
leads, then adding them just for the heck of it
(or in hopes of achieving performance nobody else
has) is wishful thinking.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Transorb voltage for 14V system |
Bob
I didn't measure the voltage the transorb opened but it was clearly enough
open at 12.5 volts which was the battery voltage to blow a 25amp fuse.
I'm using a prestolite externally regulated 60amp alternator with a
Zeftronics regulator.
I don't know if there are any transients that a transorb might solve but I'm
only intending to put one across the power panel and at $10 it seems like
cheap insurance with no obvious downside
Best regards
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 4:32 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Transorb voltage for 14V system
> <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
> At 04:16 PM 11/6/2006 +0000, you wrote:
>
>>
>>Bob
>>
>>I'm building a RV9A and using a variant of Z-11 as the electrical system.
>>Basically the endurance bus is provided by a composite design mini-power
>>panel http://www.compositedesigninc.com/Mini_Power.htm except that this
>>has all the electrics connected to it except the alternator field,
>>Critically, the non-switchable load is only a measured 0.8amp for a Dynon
>>D10A and engine instruments.
>>I'm using a IR 125NQ015 diode mounted directly onto the power panel
>>positive bus (this is a great device with 1/4" screw terminal for the
>>incoming feed and its case as the output. This has a VF of only 0.33V so
>>at my full load is only dissipating about 8 Watts.
>>I'm intending to use a 5000W axial transorb across the terminals of the
>>power panel to provide both a level of spike protection . . .
>
>
> From what spikes?
>
>> . . . but also overvoltage protection. I've conducted experiments with
>> a 9V version of the transorb and demonstrated that I can blow either my
>> endurance bus fuse or my alternator current limiter without damage to the
>> transorb. In other words an overvoltage on the alternator should blow its
>> own fuse and if any transients exist they would also be mopped up. The
>> transorb voltage is obviously critical in this. I don't want it
>> conducting in any normal situation, but do want it to let go as soon as
>> any significant overvoltage condition exists.
>>
>>Without wishing to start any further spike protection or alternator
>>overvoltage wars, I'm very interested in your views on this approach.
>
> What kind of alternator? And did you measure the voltage
> across the transorb just prior to fuse opening and bringing
> an ov event to heel?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Who's The Buzz Box Producer |
Please, someone, post the name/email of the gent who produces the kits and
the already made-up buzz boxes for mag timing. It's the one with three
leads and red and green LED's to time both mags and is built into a thermo
formed black ABS plastic box.
Many thanks ...
Jerry Grimmonpre' jerry@mc.net
RV4 Flying
RV8A Electrical
Message 5
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Bob and listers
I am installing an electronic circuit (Flap Positioning System) which has a
3 colour LED on it. I am puting this box inside the flap enclosure of my
RV,
thus hiden in a place out of sight.
Since I need, for some operations, to see the LED, I am thinking in puting
another 3 colour LED somewhere in the panel. How should I connect the
pannel
LED to the circuit LED? Is it just a 3 wire connection? And both LED's
would
show the same?
TIA
Carlos
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Who's The Buzz Box Producer |
Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
> <jerry@mc.net>
>
> Please, someone, post the name/email of the gent who produces the kits
> and the already made-up buzz boxes for mag timing. It's the one with
> three leads and red and green LED's to time both mags and is built
> into a thermo formed black ABS plastic box.
I think this is what you are looking for:
http://www.magnetotimer.com/
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118
http://econ.duke.edu/~deej/sportsman/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Who's The Buzz Box Producer |
Here you go: http://www.magnetotimer.com/
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
>
> Please, someone, post the name/email of the gent who produces the kits
> and the already made-up buzz boxes for mag timing. It's the one with
> three leads and red and green LED's to time both mags and is built into
> a thermo formed black ABS plastic box.
> Many thanks ...
> Jerry Grimmonpre' jerry@mc.net
> RV4 Flying
> RV8A Electrical
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Definition of Alternator B-lead? |
Bob has recommended keeping the B-lead out of the cockpit to avoid
electromagnetic interference with instruments & radios. How much of the
B-lead are we concerned about? Looking at Z-13/8, it seems to me that
all
five wires connected to the battery contactor (except the master switch
wire), plus the E-bus main feed path, are all electrically equivalent to
the
B-lead. Does that mean, if the goal is to keep the B-lead out of the
cockpit, that the battery, the battery contactor, and the three power
busses must be forward of the firewall too? If not, where do you draw
the
line? What's the ideal, and if one must compromise, how should one
prioritize component location?
Thanks.
John
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Definition of Alternator B-lead? |
At 06:36 PM 11/7/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>Bob has recommended keeping the B-lead out of the cockpit to avoid
>electromagnetic interference with instruments & radios. How much of the
>B-lead are we concerned about? Looking at Z-13/8, it seems to me that all
>five wires connected to the battery contactor (except the master switch
>wire), plus the E-bus main feed path, are all electrically equivalent to
>the B-lead. Does that mean, if the goal is to keep the B-lead out of the
>cockpit, that the battery, the battery contactor, and the three power
>busses must be forward of the firewall too? If not, where do you draw the
>line? What s the ideal, and if one must compromise, how should one
>prioritize component location?
The "b-lead" is limited to that hunk of wire that
runs from the alternator to the circuit protection
(classically a breaker on the panel).
The b-lead has strong magnetic fields modulated
with alternator ripple. It's useful to keep this
(and all other FAT wires) as far from potential
victims as practical . . . if everything BUT the
bus feeders could be kept forward of the firewall,
super. Depart from this 'ideal' as needed but make
all practical efforts to maintain separation.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Definition of Alternator B-lead? |
I just looked at the latest z13/8 and noticed something interesting about
the drawing.. The B-lead coming from the alternator to the starter
contactor is listed as 4g. I think that might be overkill for that
portion of the circuit, as something as small as 10g (8g to be
conservative) would do for a 60A alternator.
The output of the alternator is noisy. Using the fatest wire to connect
the alternator to the battery provides the best filtering. Making the
wire between the starter contactor and battery contactor perform double
duty allows using a much fatter wire for the alternator without any
penalty (for many architectures).
The RI noise will be worst on the starter end of the wire between the
starter contactor and the battery contactor. Ideally the system
architecture would allow making the connection between the battery and
battery contactor short as compared to the connection between the battery
contactor and the starter contactor. This will minimize the noise on the
remaining connections to the battery contactor. Keeping the wire between
the battery contactor and the battery short also makes the contactor
perform as it's intended - to de-energize the majority of the electrical
system.
I believe there have been system architectures that routed the b-lead
directly to an ammeter on the panel, and then to the battery, with a
totally seperate wire used to power the starter. Using a remote shunt in
line with the b-lead, as in the Z-drawing eliminates any need for such
nonsense.
If the engine is in the nose, and the battery is behind the cockpit,
obviously, the B-lead/starter_feed will go through the cockpit.. If you
have a choice, keep that wire further from the panel than you would other
wiring. Don't use the starter end of that wire to power anything else -
make all connections as close to the battery contactor as possible.
Sorry if that seems like an indirect answer to your query...
Regards,
Matt-
> Bob has recommended keeping the B-lead out of the cockpit to avoid
> electromagnetic interference with instruments & radios. How much of the
> B-lead are we concerned about? Looking at Z-13/8, it seems to me that all
> five wires connected to the battery contactor (except the master switch
> wire), plus the E-bus main feed path, are all electrically equivalent to
> the
> B-lead. Does that mean, if the goal is to keep the B-lead out of the
> cockpit, that the battery, the battery contactor, and the three power
> busses must be forward of the firewall too? If not, where do you draw the
> line? What's the ideal, and if one must compromise, how should one
> prioritize component location?
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> John
>
>
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