Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:39 AM - WLAS [Please Read] (Matt Dralle)
1. 01:08 AM - Re: Re: Garmin manuals on PDF file (Gilles Thesee)
2. 03:45 AM - Re: Garmin manuals on PDF file (Dave)
3. 04:59 AM - alternator woes (Collin Campbell)
4. 05:16 AM - Re: alternator woes (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 05:27 AM - Re: alternator woes (Bill Boyd)
6. 05:41 AM - Re: Transistorture (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 05:51 AM - Re: Grounding lugs (belated response) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 06:26 AM - Joining copper wire to aluminum tube (Ernest Christley)
9. 07:03 AM - Re: Joining copper wire to aluminum tube (Bill Boyd)
10. 09:40 AM - Re: Transistorture (Don Vs)
11. 10:08 AM - Re: Joining copper wire to aluminum tube ()
12. 10:11 AM - Re: Grounding lugs (belated response) (John McMahon)
13. 01:06 PM - homebuilder's kit plane database (Brian Meyette)
14. 02:11 PM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 11/12/06 (Ron Cox)
15. 02:46 PM - Re: alternator woes (Collin Campbell)
16. 05:25 PM - Re: alternator woes (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 07:28 PM - ring terminal (N777TY)
18. 07:37 PM - Re: alternator woes (Bill Boyd)
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| Subject: | WLAS [Please Read] |
Dear Listers,
I sat down at the 'ol computer tonight to have a look at a few of the nice comments
List Members have been including along with their Contributions this year.
I was amazed at how many I found and even more amazed at some of the very nice
things Listers have been saying about the Lists and how valuable the they
are to them.
I've included quite a few of these nice comments below. Please read over some
of this great Lister feedback. No doubt you will find that you agree with at
least one or two of those comments - maybe all of them! If you find that do,
won't you please make a Contribution to support these Lists today!! Its fast
and easy with the Matronics List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Don't forget that I've now fully implemented the new *List Fund Raiser Squelch*
feature that will automatically intercept any future iterations of my "Please
Contribute" messages -- that is, *once you've made YOUR Contribution*! How cool
is that? (Make sure the email address you enter along with your Contribution
matches exactly your subscribed List email address. An exact match is how
it works.)
Thank you for your generous Contributions this year and for all the wonderful comments!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
================= What Listers Are Saying (WLAS) ================
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The features you have implemented recently have you poised
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================= What Listers Are Saying (WLAS) ================
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: re: Garmin manuals on PDF file |
>
>
> Try this:
>
> http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/Downloads/howtogetagarminmanual.htm
>
Or that :
http://contrails.free.fr/gps_manuels.php
Regards,
Gilles Thesee
Grenoble, France
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin manuals on PDF file |
This site is generally helpful
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/Downloads/howtogetagarminmanual.htm.
GMA340 is at
http://www.garmin.com/manuals/GMA340AudioPanel_InstallationManual.pdf
GNS430 http://www.garmin.com/manuals/143_InstallationManual.pdf
GTX330 http://www.garmin.com/manuals/GTX330Transponder_InstallationManual.pdf
Message 3
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I am still trying to solve the problem with my alternator. I have read
the troubleshooting suggestions in Appendix Z (note 8). I made up the
test cable to the alternator field as suggested and tested in flight.
As I mentioned earlier, the problem is intermittent, the volts usually
go away once or twice in an hour or so of flying. The test shows some
healthy voltage (12+) on the field when the output is 0. According to
the appendix, this suggests the alternator has failed.
But the intermittent thing is driving my nuts. Why does it work most of
the time? It begins to work immediately when I recycle the field
breaker. My voltage regulator has ground fault protection, could it be
that I have a nuisance problem that is tripping it? I have checked and
rechecked all wiring connections and they seem fine. Some have
suggested that I may have a "flying short" in the alternator itself.
This would explain the intermittent thing.
Just needed some advice before I resort to tearing into and replacing
things.
Collin
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: alternator woes |
Subject: AeroElectric-List: alternator woes
I am still trying to solve the problem with my alternator. I have read
the troubleshooting suggestions in Appendix Z (note 8). I made up the
test cable to the alternator field as suggested and tested in flight. As I
mentioned earlier, the problem is intermittent, the volts usually go away
once or twice in an hour or so of flying. The test shows some healthy
voltage (12+) on the field when the output is 0. According to the
appendix, this suggests the alternator has failed.
More than a suggestion, it's an accusing finger.
There is no way a functioning alternator can be
at zero output while the field voltage is so
high.
But the intermittent thing is driving my nuts. Why does it work most of
the time? It begins to work immediately when I recycle the field
breaker. My voltage regulator has ground fault protection, could it be
that I have a nuisance problem that is tripping it? I have checked and
rechecked all wiring connections and they seem fine. Some have suggested
that I may have a "flying short" in the alternator itself. This would
explain the intermittent thing.
It's probably slip ring brushes. These can become
flakey for a variety of ills including loss of spring
tension, contamination causing hang-ups in the holders,
worn out, etc.
It's a 99.9% bet that the problem is downstream of the
field terminal on the back of the alternator . . . and
all the likely suspects reside inside the alternator.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: alternator woes |
Let me jump in here and address a quick aside to Bob: my replacement
Hyundai 95 amp alternator appears to have solved the car's electrical
issues completely. At 500 bucks for the job, including core charge of
$75, I should hope it would! (Leaves me wondering what hardware on
that little Sonata requires a 95 amp current budget!) So, I have the
failed alternator core if you are interested in putting it on your
test stand. Please advise.
Thanks,
Bill B
On 11/13/06, Collin Campbell <collinc@alltel.net> wrote:
>
>
> I am still trying to solve the problem with my alternator.
Message 6
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At 09:14 PM 11/11/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>I would like to use a transistor to convert a normally open switch to
>normally closed. I need to switch a circut ground off. This would be very
>simple with a relay, but, I would like to use a transistor if this can be
>done. Is this a reasonable approach? If yes can you draw me a diagrtam?
>Thanks.
Can you sketch the surrounding circuitry? Do you have access to
both ends of "the switch" or is one end already connected to
ground . . . or perhaps 12v? What do you what the output to control?
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Grounding lugs (belated response) |
At 02:10 PM 7/16/2006 -0700, you wrote:
>Ok, got the transponder info, now...
>
>I am still wondering if I need to change out the 1/4" brass thru firewall
>studs put in by Lancair. I am using #2 welding cable for the
>batteries. If I've done the calculations correctly the diameter of AWG2
>is .27", just slightly more than 1/4". Would that .02 require going to
>5/16" studs?
.25 in threaded brass is pretty light mechanically. The minor diameter
of the threads is 0.2" Given our interest in gas-tight joints it's
nice to have enough strength to put some pressure on the terminals
when torqued to near max value for the fastener.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 8
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| Subject: | Joining copper wire to aluminum tube |
I'm attempting to use my pitot tube for an antennae as described here:
http://contrails.free.fr/instruments_ant_sonex.php
I'm looking for a way to reliably attach a BNC connector to the 3/16"
aluminum tube with a short jumper wire. It's to small to rivet, and I
can't crush it as it still has to operate as a pitot tube. The only
viable alternative I've identified to date is aluminum brazing rod.
--
,|"|"|, Ernest Christley |
----===<{{(oQo)}}>===---- Dyke Delta Builder |
o| d |o http://ernest.isa-geek.org |
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Joining copper wire to aluminum tube |
You might try the flux paste for aluminum made by Solder-It company.
I've torch-soldered to aluminum wwith fair success using this. Once
the flux/solder paste adheres to the aluminum, you can pretty much
join any other solderable metal to it at that one spot.
I bought mine online from the company, but I've since seen it at
Lowe's. Can't recall if Lowe's had only the silver solder paste,
which won;t help you, or the aluminum paste, which is what you need.
-Bill B
On 11/13/06, Ernest Christley <echristley@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
> I'm attempting to use my pitot tube for an antennae as described here:
>
> http://contrails.free.fr/instruments_ant_sonex.php
>
> I'm looking for a way to reliably attach a BNC connector to the 3/16"
> aluminum tube with a short jumper wire. It's to small to rivet, and I
> can't crush it as it still has to operate as a pitot tube. The only
> viable alternative I've identified to date is aluminum brazing rod.
>
> --
> ,|"|"|, Ernest Christley |
> ----===<{{(oQo)}}>===---- Dyke Delta Builder |
> o| d |o http://ernest.isa-geek.org |
>
>
Message 10
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The circuit is just a ground to tell my TCAD that it is on the ground. A
pressure switch ( I can only find NO in the range I need) is in the pitot
system. The switch closes at roughly 50 knots. I have access to both ends
of the switch. The switch is a micro pneumatic logic 503. Maybe you know a
supplier that would sell me one that is NC.The closing of the switch is
supposed to open the ground on the TCAD. I can easily convert the no to nc
by using a relay, but, I thought a transistor may also work?? Just making
an attempt to learn more electric stuff. I hope that this explanation
works.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 5:40 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Transistorture
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 09:14 PM 11/11/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>I would like to use a transistor to convert a normally open switch to
>normally closed. I need to switch a circut ground off. This would be very
>simple with a relay, but, I would like to use a transistor if this can be
>done. Is this a reasonable approach? If yes can you draw me a diagrtam?
>Thanks.
Can you sketch the surrounding circuitry? Do you have access to
both ends of "the switch" or is one end already connected to
ground . . . or perhaps 12v? What do you what the output to control?
Bob . . .
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Joining copper wire to aluminum tube |
Hello Ernest
A few ideas that fell out of my head:
Use a copper pitot tube if you can
www.McMaster.com sells conductive epoxy (ain't cheap)
Buy 1 foot of Erics Copper coated aluminium wire (get both sizes if strand
sizes are different) and sand off copper so you have an aluminium to
aluminium joint, the other end you can crimp or solder, see if you can
clamp with a few aluminium clamps like adel or make some, could also put 4
strands, with lets say 1 inch contact at 12,3,6 and 9 O-Clock and wrap
with Spectra fishing line, or Size E Dacron thread, or probably even
cotton sewing thread and put a drop of Model thin CA to hold in place.
Better? Do the 4 strands of Eric aluminium wire with 1.5" contact area.
Heat shrink a 1/4" band on each end and one in the middle to hold in
position for wrap. After wrap is complete heat shrink the whole thing
(adhesive lined for good seal) or paint with something as CA is not
waterproof.
Ron Parigoris
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Grounding lugs (belated response) |
Bob, I changed out the 1/4" brass studs for 5/16" brass as you suggest for
the positive and negative thru the firewall. Thanks for the answer.
On 11/13/06, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckollsr@cox.net> wrote:
>
> nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
> At 02:10 PM 7/16/2006 -0700, you wrote:
> >....wondering if I need to change out the 1/4" brass thru firewall
> >studs put in by Lancair. I am using #2 welding cable for the
> >batteries. If I've done the calculations correctly the diameter of AWG2
> >is .27", just slightly more than 1/4". Would that .02 require going to
> >5/16" studs?
>
>
> .25 in threaded brass is pretty light mechanically. The minor diameter
> of the threads is 0.2" Given our interest in gas-tight joints it's
> nice to have enough strength to put some pressure on the terminals
> when torqued to near max value for the fastener.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
--
John McMahon
Lancair Super ES, N9637M
Message 13
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| Subject: | homebuilder's kit plane database |
I've made an Excel spreadsheet of kit aircraft data, and put it up on my web
site. I'm sure it still contains lots of errors and omissions, but I
thought I'd get it out to people while I continue to perfect it. Please let
me know of any errors or omissions, and I'll keep it updated on an ongoing
basis for the benefit of all homebuilders. Feel free to copy this link &
info to other homebuilders' lists.
brian
http://brian76.mystarband.net/misc.htm#directory
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
7:34 PM
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 11/12/06 |
John,
If your A&P has the authority to do it himself, he can sign it off if you do
it. You'll just have to make sure he is satisfied with your plan and
execution before expecting him to sign it off. He will have to inspect the
work to make sure he'd be satisfied.
You don't need an A&P to DO anything on the airplane, only to sign it off as
airworthy.
Ron
> If I install an ICOM A-200 in my Aeronca Champ can I legally have an A&P
> sign off
> the installation??
> I am not an A&P but have done many radios installations in experimentals.
>
> John
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: alternator woes |
Thanks for the input. New alternator is on the way.
Collin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 7:15 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: alternator woes
> <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: alternator woes
>
>
> I am still trying to solve the problem with my alternator. I have read
> the troubleshooting suggestions in Appendix Z (note 8). I made up the
> test cable to the alternator field as suggested and tested in flight. As
> I mentioned earlier, the problem is intermittent, the volts usually go
> away once or twice in an hour or so of flying. The test shows some
> healthy voltage (12+) on the field when the output is 0. According to the
> appendix, this suggests the alternator has failed.
>
> More than a suggestion, it's an accusing finger.
> There is no way a functioning alternator can be
> at zero output while the field voltage is so
> high.
>
> But the intermittent thing is driving my nuts. Why does it work most of
> the time? It begins to work immediately when I recycle the field breaker.
> My voltage regulator has ground fault protection, could it be that I have
> a nuisance problem that is tripping it? I have checked and rechecked all
> wiring connections and they seem fine. Some have suggested that I may
> have a "flying short" in the alternator itself. This would explain the
> intermittent thing.
>
> It's probably slip ring brushes. These can become
> flakey for a variety of ills including loss of spring
> tension, contamination causing hang-ups in the holders,
> worn out, etc.
>
> It's a 99.9% bet that the problem is downstream of the
> field terminal on the back of the alternator . . . and
> all the likely suspects reside inside the alternator.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: alternator woes |
At 08:26 AM 11/13/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Let me jump in here and address a quick aside to Bob: my replacement
>Hyundai 95 amp alternator appears to have solved the car's electrical
>issues completely. At 500 bucks for the job, including core charge of
>$75, I should hope it would! (Leaves me wondering what hardware on
>that little Sonata requires a 95 amp current budget!) So, I have the
>failed alternator core if you are interested in putting it on your
>test stand. Please advise.
Hmmm . . . okay. That's a bit more than I hand hopped. Go ahead
and turn it in for the core credit. I've got about $700 worth
of materials to buy to get the alternator stand running and
there's no dearth of alternators already here to run on it!
Thanks for considering me.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 17
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Any thoughts about putting a 1/4" ring terminal (for 8 awg wire) onto a #10 (approx
3/16" dia.) stud on the fuse box? Is that a no-no?
Thanks!
--------
RV-7A
N777TY (res)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=74425#74425
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: alternator woes |
Will do. Thanks for your help with the problem.
Any thoughts on what a compact car needs with 95 amps?!
-Bill
On 11/13/06, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckollsr@cox.net> wrote:
>
> At 08:26 AM 11/13/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >
> >Let me jump in here and address a quick aside to Bob: my replacement
> >Hyundai 95 amp alternator appears to have solved the car's electrical
> >issues completely. At 500 bucks for the job, including core charge of
> >$75, I should hope it would! (Leaves me wondering what hardware on
> >that little Sonata requires a 95 amp current budget!) So, I have the
> >failed alternator core if you are interested in putting it on your
> >test stand. Please advise.
>
> Hmmm . . . okay. That's a bit more than I hand hopped. Go ahead
> and turn it in for the core credit. I've got about $700 worth
> of materials to buy to get the alternator stand running and
> there's no dearth of alternators already here to run on it!
>
> Thanks for considering me.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> < What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
> < the authority which determines whether there can be >
> < debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
> < scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
> < with experiment. >
> < --Lawrence M. Krauss >
> ---------------------------------------------------------
>
>
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