Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:20 AM - Re: Hugo's antenna questions (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 07:27 AM - Re: Re: Hugo's antenna questions (Deems Davis)
3. 09:57 AM - Re: Re: Hugo's antenna questions ()
4. 10:30 AM - Re: Re: Hugo's antenna questions ()
5. 10:35 AM - Re: : Hugo Rv10#40456 (Tim Olson)
6. 11:15 AM - Re: Re: Hugo's antenna questions (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 11:45 AM - Re: Antennaes and primer (N395V)
8. 01:08 PM - Re: Fw: Ampmeter reading (Carlos Trigo)
9. 01:48 PM - Direct e-mails to Bob . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 03:54 PM - Re: Auto-pilots (Kevin Horton)
11. 05:28 PM - 275-218 DPDT relay wiring (N777TY)
12. 05:35 PM - Battery Sizing (Ralph Hardin)
13. 06:18 PM - Foil Shielding (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 07:30 PM - Re: 275-218 DPDT relay wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 08:16 PM - Re: 275-218 DPDT relay wiring (N777TY)
16. 09:11 PM - Re: Re: 275-218 DPDT relay wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 09:21 PM - Re: Battery Sizing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 09:56 PM - Re: 275-218 DPDT relay wiring (N777TY)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Hugo's antenna questions |
At 09:08 PM 11/25/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Hi All,
>I 'm installing a Comant antenna in the top cabin of my RV10(composite)it
>is a VHF-GPS-Weather data, while I have no problem in doing so in the
>metal part ,in the cabin(after I read Bob Nicklaus booK) it looks like I
>must install a ground plane inside the cabin.
>The book is very fast in explaining,(cut a one inch cooper and weld )
>(call 3m for materials) and so on,it does not mention the lengths of each
>leg nor the diameter of the round plate, does it need to be aluminum or
>copper?
Radials under an antenna should be the same length as the
antenna itself. For example, If the comm antenna is
23" in height above the skin, the radials under it should
describe a circle (or skeleton of a circle) that has
a radius of 23". Therefore the disk may be of any size
and the radials of any length as long as distance from
tip of a radial measured to the center of the disk is
the same as the height of the antenna.
The disk serves two purposes: Provide a doubler under the
antenna and an radio frequency ground for the antenna. You
can make the disk and radials out of aluminum but you'd
have to rivet the ends of the radials to the disk to get
a good electrical connection. I prefer to use copper or brass.
If you don't need to add structural doubler, the disk
may be quite thin . . . .005" brass shim stock would
work.
When you use copper or brass and make the radials
from copper or brass, one may attach the radials to
the disk by soldering which provides an electrical
connection with great longevity.
In cases were the radials are short (2.6" under
a transponder antenna) then the entire ground plane
can be one solid disk. Here the disk may be aluminum,
brass or copper.
>Thanks
>The book is very good ,but its still way beyoong me since I don't want to
>became an electronic engineer before learning how to build an airplane,
>I'm still thinking many builders want to learn how to build a panel
>without the necessity of knowing how an alternator is built ,or how many
>inches are the quarter wave(watever that means)I thinks the first
>technician who will be able to show pictures at what a diode look like and
>wich point needs to be solder ,will sale a tons of books,and don't try to
>convert every body in master panel designers.
The AeroElectric Connection is not an attempt to
convert anyone to anything. It's simply a collection
of simple ideas that offers more than the traditional
"cook books" bur falls far short of making an engineer
out of anyone.
It was crafted with the idea that the informed builder
is the most confident builder both in terms of building
and operating his/her airplane. A great many of our
fellow pilots operate their airplanes much as they do
their cars. The machines are just appliances with knobs,
levers, and fuel tanks. They are competent enough in
operating the machine to get a license but have little
if any knowledge about how it works (and perhaps don't
care).
>Its my personal opinion only.
If you don't believe you received fair value for
your purchase, just let me know and I'll refund your
money.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Hugo's antenna questions |
Hugo, why have you decided to mount the Com antenna on the top? most of
the transmissions will be between the aircraft and ground based
stations, I believe that most of the RV-10 builders are mounting their
Com antennas on the bottom of the aircraft where they also have the
advantage of the metal skin. FWIW
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Hugo's antenna questions |
> The commant in the roof is a triple in one ,is my 2nd VHF(#1 is at the bottom
,bend commant),is my GPS and because soon or later I will need WX data it does
to.It is very expensive about 750.00 ,but still cheaper if purchase separate
,I was tinking with one in the cabin I will reduce some drag,plus in some unfortunate
event something hits the bottom,still have the top one.
hugo
> From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
> Date: 2006/11/26 Sun AM 10:26:01 EST
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Hugo's antenna questions
>
>
>
> Hugo, why have you decided to mount the Com antenna on the top? most of
> the transmissions will be between the aircraft and ground based
> stations, I believe that most of the RV-10 builders are mounting their
> Com antennas on the bottom of the aircraft where they also have the
> advantage of the metal skin. FWIW
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Hugo's antenna questions |
Thanks for the answer.
Please don't misunderstend me,
the book is great, and I still think you are a real gentleman, the same opinion
I have when I talked to you at the time I ordered the book, even if I sound sarcastic
(I have the same problem at home with my kids,it runs in my family blood.)
You still answered properly ,like every time somebody in the list tries
to make you loose yor temper. My only purpose is the positive criticism,I think
it is never too late to learn from others,I'm 50 and still probably do not know
anything. Being very knowledgeable in some profession does not mean it is
easy to be a teacher,you see ,in my opinion when you try to teach somebody with
no notion of the subject matter ,you must to go down to their level and start
from there ,I hope you don't still missunderstand me ,I wish I can help you
in improve the manual, so that the common mortals guys ,who one day decided to
build an airplane will be able to manufacture their panels,and I thinks is very
easy
Thanks for the help.
Hugo Terrosa
Ps. If you need a manual ,you must purchase one,because I don't think I'll be sending
mine back.
>
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
> Date: 2006/11/26 Sun AM 09:19:15 EST
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Hugo's antenna questions
>
>
> At 09:08 PM 11/25/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >
> >Hi All,
> >I 'm installing a Comant antenna in the top cabin of my RV10(composite)it
> >is a VHF-GPS-Weather data, while I have no problem in doing so in the
> >metal part ,in the cabin(after I read Bob Nicklaus booK) it looks like I
> >must install a ground plane inside the cabin.
> >The book is very fast in explaining,(cut a one inch cooper and weld )
> >(call 3m for materials) and so on,it does not mention the lengths of each
> >leg nor the diameter of the round plate, does it need to be aluminum or
> >copper?
>
> Radials under an antenna should be the same length as the
> antenna itself. For example, If the comm antenna is
> 23" in height above the skin, the radials under it should
> describe a circle (or skeleton of a circle) that has
> a radius of 23". Therefore the disk may be of any size
> and the radials of any length as long as distance from
> tip of a radial measured to the center of the disk is
> the same as the height of the antenna.
>
> The disk serves two purposes: Provide a doubler under the
> antenna and an radio frequency ground for the antenna. You
> can make the disk and radials out of aluminum but you'd
> have to rivet the ends of the radials to the disk to get
> a good electrical connection. I prefer to use copper or brass.
> If you don't need to add structural doubler, the disk
> may be quite thin . . . .005" brass shim stock would
> work.
>
> When you use copper or brass and make the radials
> from copper or brass, one may attach the radials to
> the disk by soldering which provides an electrical
> connection with great longevity.
>
> In cases were the radials are short (2.6" under
> a transponder antenna) then the entire ground plane
> can be one solid disk. Here the disk may be aluminum,
> brass or copper.
>
> >Thanks
> >The book is very good ,but its still way beyoong me since I don't want to
> >became an electronic engineer before learning how to build an airplane,
> >I'm still thinking many builders want to learn how to build a panel
> >without the necessity of knowing how an alternator is built ,or how many
> >inches are the quarter wave(watever that means)I thinks the first
> >technician who will be able to show pictures at what a diode look like and
> >wich point needs to be solder ,will sale a tons of books,and don't try to
> >convert every body in master panel designers.
>
> The AeroElectric Connection is not an attempt to
> convert anyone to anything. It's simply a collection
> of simple ideas that offers more than the traditional
> "cook books" bur falls far short of making an engineer
> out of anyone.
>
> It was crafted with the idea that the informed builder
> is the most confident builder both in terms of building
> and operating his/her airplane. A great many of our
> fellow pilots operate their airplanes much as they do
> their cars. The machines are just appliances with knobs,
> levers, and fuel tanks. They are competent enough in
> operating the machine to get a license but have little
> if any knowledge about how it works (and perhaps don't
> care).
>
> >Its my personal opinion only.
>
> If you don't believe you received fair value for
> your purchase, just let me know and I'll refund your
> money.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: : Hugo Rv10#40456 |
Hugo,
Which weather are you looking at? If WSI, you'll need a new antenna
in early 2007 when you get the new receiver. If XM, it'll probably
stay the same for now. You never know though, when looking down the
road, so that's why I kept my Comm at least separate....I don't plan
to do any upgrades that would require me to get new Com antennas.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
>
> Hi All, I 'm installing a Comant antenna in the top cabin of my
> RV10(composite)it is a VHF-GPS-Weather data, while I have no problem
> in doing so in the metal part ,in the cabin(after I read Bob Nicklaus
> booK) it looks like I must install a ground plane inside the cabin.
> The book is very fast in explaining,(cut a one inch cooper and weld )
> (call 3m for materials) and so on,it does not mention the lengths of
> each leg nor the diameter of the round plate, does it need to be
> aluminum or copper? any help (and not the typical "go and ask your
> local avionic shop", it must to be a joke. Can you imagine how youd
> ask the jedi's for help ,after you purchased all of your stuff from
> the net,wholesale,and any place you can save a buck,for suggestions
> in how do the job for your self .will be a nice answer ,I suspect.)
>
> Thanks The book is very good ,but its still way beyoong me since I
> don't want to became an electronic engineer before learning how to
> build an airplane, I'm still thinking many builders want to learn how
> to build a panel without the necessity of knowing how an alternator
> is built ,or how many inches are the quarter wave(watever that
> means)I thinks the first technician who will be able to show pictures
> at what a diode look like and wich point needs to be solder ,will
> sale a tons of books,and don't try to convert every body in master
> panel designers. Its my personal opinion only. Hugo do not archive
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Hugo's antenna questions |
At 01:30 PM 11/26/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Thanks for the answer.
>Please don't misunderstend me,
>the book is great, and I still think you are a real gentleman, the same
>opinion I have when I talked to you at the time I ordered the book, even
>if I sound sarcastic (I have the same problem at home with my kids,it runs
>in my family blood.) You still answered properly ,like every time somebody
>in the list tries to make you loose yor temper. My only purpose is the
>positive criticism,I think it is never too late to learn from others,I'm
>50 and still probably do not know anything. Being very knowledgeable in
>some profession does not mean it is easy to be a teacher,you see ,in my
>opinion when you try to teach somebody with no notion of the subject
>matter ,you must to go down to their level and start from there ,I hope
>you don't still missunderstand me ,I wish I can help you in improve the
>manual, so that the common mortals guys ,who one day decided to build an
>airplane will be able to manufacture their panels,and I thinks is very easy
>Thanks for the help.
>Hugo Terrosa
Not at all sir. I'm just making sure that 1300 or so other folks
on the List understand too!
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Antennaes and primer |
Well for the most part it wasn't the primer. Sanded the primer of and the GPSs
got a little better but com nav stil were pretty much TU.
Replaced all the coax connectors I had put in, still no joy. Hooked up my portable
nav/com to the antenna cables and it worked great.Bench checked th com/nav...
no problems. Must be the tray...not quite. When I purchased the units Garmin
compels their suppliers to wire the trays with pigtails including antennaes.
You guessed it the pigtail coaxs were poorly assembled with the inner insulator
melted. The com had 2 shield whiskers touching the center conductor. The
nav was a dead short.
Thanks to all for the input.
--------
Milt
N395V
F1 Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=77086#77086
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Ampmeter reading |
Dale
Thanks for the tip. I'll try your suggestion and report back.
Carlos
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Ensing
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 11:07 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: AeroElectric-List: Ampmeter reading
Carlos,
Only similarity to my system is the EXP bus and the location of the
sensor in the line, so therefore not much to go on, but mine does not
show any fluctuation as you describe.
You do not indicate any load on the EXP bus when you are running the
engine. Try putting about a 10 amp load on the system and let us know
results.
Dale Ensing
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Carlos Trigo
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.csom
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2006 7:14 PM
Subject: Fw: AeroElectric-List: Ampmeter reading
Since I only got 1 answer (thanks Tim), here it goes again:
Bob et all
I installed a digital Ampmeter, connected to a 50mV Shunt which is
installed in the #6 cable which comes from the alternator (Subaru
engine) to my Exp Bus board.
I assume that this ampmeter indicates the current being produced by
the alternator, obviously with the engine running.
But, every time I run the engine (stil at my garage, not yet
flying), the ampmeter indication runs very quickly from, let's say 13.7
down to 8.2, then up to 14,6, again down and again up, very quickly.
Why am I geting this kind of reading?
Anything wrong or it's just indicating what it shoud?
Carlos
Message 9
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| Subject: | Direct e-mails to Bob . . . |
I just "cleaned" the in-basket for the personal e-mail
account going back to June. I note that I had to "dump"
about 200 direct e-mails where individuals were seeking
one-on-one attention . . . mostly on topics that have been
or should be discussed here on the List.
I do answer a goodly number of direct e-mails but I encourage
everyone to post their questions on the List . . . for several
reasons. First is sharing the conversation with a whole lot of
builders who find value in watching these exchanges go by. Second,
there may be multiple individuals with good answers too . . . if
the exchange happens in my personal e-mail "closet", the benefits
of community wisdom are lost.
Finally, because I believe the List is so important, I put
any available time on the List first. Direct e-mails on airplane
building take a back seat and once they're more than a week old,
they're quite likely to drop entirely off my radar screen.
I'm sure that some of those 200 odd folks are disappointed but
if any of you didn't hear from me, it's not out of disrespect
or even an unwillingness to be helpful. There are only so many
hours in the day.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 10
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Stein,
Thanks for the additional info. I am pondering eventually replacing
my Navaid wing-leveler with a more capable two-axis autopilot, so
this info is useful.
Kevin
do not archive
On 25 Nov 2006, at 21:56, Stein Bruch wrote:
> <stein@steinair.com>
>
> As usual you are wise beyone your years! It's only a very basic
> magnetic
> heading...you have to 'point' the airplane to a specific heading of
> sorts,
> and once engaged a click of the knob or turn of the wheel (on my
> pic/pilot)
> moves you one degree. You can't tell it to go to a specific heading
> without a known starting point....hopefully referenced to your
> compass or
> something. It's mainly a backup thing in case everything else in your
> airplane fails (or you're me and you forgot to plug in the GPS then
> the
> batteries go dead)! To use it with the GPS functional and
> installed, you
> need to remove the GPS data feed, either by shutting the GPS off or
> turning
> of the NMEA data stream.
>
> Hope that clears things up. Like I said....you were kind of right -
> I just
> had to point out that one little bit. Of course it's not the most
> powerful
> bit of functionality in the world, but then it's not meant to be.
> It's
> supposed to cover your rear in the case of other things failing.
> Like I
> said, I'm not 100% sure about the Trio, and really not sure about
> how the
> BMA in reality actually provides that info (and if it even really
> does or
> still uses some GPS input), but I do know more about the TTAP's.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> Kevin
> Horton
> Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 8:05 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Auto-pilots
>
>
> <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
> Stein,
>
> I did look at the TruTrak web site before posting, and found no
> mention of a heading select mode, but digging deeper now I see some
> mention in the Quick Reference Guide for the DigiTrak. The info in
> the Quick Reference Guide is a bit spartan though. If you want to
> fly a particular heading (vice a track), how do you tell the
> autopilot to turn to that heading? Can the heading mode be used if
> the GPS is functional?
>
> Kevin
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | 275-218 DPDT relay wiring |
Anyone has wiring diagram for wiring up Radio Shack 275-218 DPDT relay to a coolie
hat switch used for trim?
There are two coil terminals.. I assumed one for each switch position (eg. up/down)..
but do they need to be "energized" (feeding it +12V)? Both? Only one?
I could try a few different things, but would rather ask before I start making
smoke in the garage :)
What I've got so far is: 1 & 2 are jumpered together and go to ground. 3 & 4
jumpered together and go to +12. 5 & 6 are outputs that go to the motor.. just
not sure about these two coil terminals (7 & 8).
Thanks!
Radomir
--------
RV-7A
N777TY (res)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=77135#77135
Message 12
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Greetings Fellow Builders,
Have couple straight forward questions on sizing for a duel battery set
up in a F1 Rocket with high compression (10 to 1) AEIO540 Lycoming, duel
Plasma III Ignitions, duel B&C alternators a 60 amp and a 20 amp.
Right now for electical I'm just building the battery box which will be
slightly different that the plans since I want to go with (2) B&C 12V 16
A.H. batteries rather than the single 35 A.H. battery the plans call
for. I plan on building the (Z-14) Dual Battery, Duel Alternator, Split
Bus type system out of Bob's book down the road in 6 months or so.
Questions:
1) will the duel battery set up 32 A.H. total still be enough in most
cold weather conditions maybe down below freezing 15 or 20 flights a
year? I'm running a B & C NCS206-149-12 starter.
2) Any special mounting tips two be aware of with two batteries? Keep a
space between them?
Thanks
Ralph Hardin Seattle Wa.
Message 13
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>Bob..
>Can you suggest a good way to ground shielded wires that use foil for
>shielding? I like your method for the braided wire, can find no reference
>for foil shielding. Thanks.
As you've observed, wires may be "shielded" by a variety
of techniques. The earliest shielding was accomplished with
an over-braid of fine wires. Obviously, braided wires cannot
offer 100% coverage for shielding effectiveness. Know that for
the vast majority of things we do in airplanes requiring
shielded conductors, one layer of tightly overbraided wires
will achieve 80% or better coverage and is just fine.
I think back in 60' or early 70's, Belden Wire and cable
figured out a simpler way to increase shielding coverage
and simplify construction by using thin aluminum foil to
instead of overbraid. One problem was that the aluminum
foil was a muther-bear to make connections so a "drain wire"
was added to the stranding makeup of the cable. The drain wire
may be inside or outside the foil and is always uninsulated
so that it makes contact with the foil over length of the cable.
See a couple of documents on my website at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Wire/Belden
The short answer to your question is, "Don't try to
mess with the aluminum foil as a conductor. Find the
Drain Wire and use it to achieve connection to the
foil."
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: 275-218 DPDT relay wiring |
At 05:27 PM 11/26/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>
>Anyone has wiring diagram for wiring up Radio Shack 275-218 DPDT relay to
>a coolie hat switch used for trim?
>
>There are two coil terminals.. I assumed one for each switch position (eg.
>up/down).. but do they need to be "energized" (feeding it +12V)? Both?
>Only one? I could try a few different things, but would rather ask before
>I start making smoke in the garage :)
>
>What I've got so far is: 1 & 2 are jumpered together and go to ground. 3
>& 4 jumpered together and go to +12. 5 & 6 are outputs that go to the
>motor.. just not sure about these two coil terminals (7 & 8).
See
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Flight/Trim/trim2.pdf
You need two relays to do the architecture above.
Use 1/2 (one pole) of each relay to control the +
up and + down side of the trim actuator.
Bob . . .
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: 275-218 DPDT relay wiring |
Thanks.. apparently, can be done by doing this, which avoids using 2 relays:
http://www.infinityaerospace.com/Flap.pdf
that's what I was looking for exactly.
PS. Bob, it'd be very helpful to add this to the PPS drawings... beats buying/using
2 relays.
--------
RV-7A
N777TY (res)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=77175#77175
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: 275-218 DPDT relay wiring |
At 08:15 PM 11/26/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>
>Thanks.. apparently, can be done by doing this, which avoids using 2 relays:
>
> http://www.infinityaerospace.com/Flap.pdf
>
>
>that's what I was looking for exactly.
>
>
>PS. Bob, it'd be very helpful to add this to the PPS drawings... beats
>buying/using 2 relays.
Not if you want to use the coolie hat switch. The
single relay circuit runs motor current through the
pilot's control switch. The coolie hat switch would
certainly not withstand the current required to run
a flap motor. It might be okay with the current to
run a Ray-Allen actuator but one would have to publish
that caveat on any drawing of this architecture to
warn the builder that not only the relay but the switch
needs to be rated for motor load currents.
This is why I publish the generic 2-relay drawings you see
on the website. This architecture ALWAYS works with
ANY motor and switch combination because the switch
handles relay coil currents only. The 2-relay architecture
also provides dynamic braking by putting a dead short
across a spinning motor when the motor is de-energized.
Reduces coast against the limit switches.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Sizing |
At 05:34 PM 11/26/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>Greetings Fellow Builders,
>
>Have couple straight forward questions on sizing for a duel battery set up
>in a F1 Rocket with high compression (10 to 1) AEIO540 Lycoming, duel
>Plasma III Ignitions, duel B&C alternators a 60 amp and a 20 amp.
>
>Right now for electical I'm just building the battery box which will be
>slightly different that the plans since I want to go with (2) B&C 12V 16
>A.H. batteries rather than the single 35 A.H. battery the plans call for.
>I plan on building the (Z-14) Dual Battery, Duel Alternator, Split Bus
>type system out of Bob's book down the road in 6 months or so.
>
>Questions:
>1) will the duel battery set up 32 A.H. total still be enough in most cold
>weather conditions maybe down below freezing 15 or 20 flights a year? I'm
>running a B & C NCS206-149-12 starter.
If the batteries are up front and you plan to use
both batteries for cranking, then there's zero risk
of problems. Actually, one of those batteries will
crank the engine nicely. It's wire size/lengths that
will cripple an otherwise capable battery.
>2) Any special mounting tips two be aware of with two batteries? Keep a
>space between them?
They can mount tight. If they have lead posts, be sure
to use nice soft connecting wires . . . like 4AWG welding
cable irrespective of what size/style of fat wire is used
elsewhere.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: 275-218 DPDT relay wiring |
Thanks.. that makes sense.. I'm using this for trim (Ray Allen).. not flaps..
--------
RV-7A
N777TY (res)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=77191#77191
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