Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:59 AM - Re: Alternator Recommendations (Wingrider)
2. 05:25 AM - Re: Switch source (Carlos Trigo)
3. 06:45 AM - Re: Continental IO-240: Alternator quit working (FlyboyTR)
4. 10:46 AM - Re: Switch source (Pascal GROELL)
5. 11:53 AM - Re: Switch source (Carlos Trigo)
6. 01:12 PM - Questions?? (Cleones)
7. 01:18 PM - Tach pickup (N777TY)
8. 02:12 PM - Re: VOR antenna splitter? (John Erickson)
9. 02:35 PM - Re: VOR antenna splitter? (Bill Denton)
10. 02:44 PM - Re: Tach pickup (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 03:23 PM - Re: Tach pickup (N777TY)
12. 03:24 PM - Re: Questions?? (Ken)
13. 03:29 PM - Re: Tach pickup (Ken)
14. 03:40 PM - Re: Tach pickup (N777TY)
15. 04:06 PM - Re: Tach pickup (Bob White)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Alternator Recommendations |
AutoZone lists the 1987 Suzuki Samurai for $96 with a limited lifetime warranty
and show it to weight 7.7 lbs.
Now if I could find someone in southern Tennessee or northern Alabama with a Corvair
in a Zenith 601 I'd like to have a look at how much room is available to
mount this alternator.
--------
Rich Whittington
Tullahoma, TN
Zenith 601HDS Under Construction
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78614#78614
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Switch source |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pascal GROELL" <pgroell@yahoo.fr>
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 3:43 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch source
> Carlos,
>
> I will be using the same system and have pretty much decided to delete all
> the optional switches.
> I think if the Flaps Positioning System fails, well I'll consider the
> flaps have failed.
> I consider that if you have electric flaps on an aircraft you have to be
> trained to use your machine without flaps.
> I think adding all backup hardware is looking for more trouble.
> My 0.02 cents,
>
> Pascal GROELL
> RV-7A #72588
> www.notreavion.net
>
Bonjour Pascal
C'est toujous agrable de trouver quelq'un de ce cot de l'Atlantique.
Well, it is really your choice to not use the optional switches, and not
having the back-up/emergency functionality. However, on one hand, that's not
what the factory (Aircraft Extras) recommend. On the other hand, have you
considered what will you do in the following occasions?:
- you are doing or practicing slow flight, with your flaps at the
maximum deployment, and the FPS-Plus fails. If you are somewhere far from a
landing point, you will have to go there very slowly...
- you are flying towards a short runway airfield, and before
landing your Flap Posit. system fails. How are you going to land without
some amount of flaps deployed?
- You are in short final to any kind of airfield, with your flaps
deployed at maximum, and suddenly some obstacle occupies your runway. If
your FPS fails, how are you going to go-around?
Although I'm aware these are low probability situations, they are
nevertheless some reasons why I want to have back-up/emergency manual
control of my flaps
Amicalement
Carlos
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Continental IO-240: Alternator quit working |
I wanted to bring closure to this issue. Please accept my sincere appreciation
to all those that provided a wealth of information. The elastomeric puck was
the failed part. I sent Drake Air my old part so it could be rebuilt. They
charge $450 for this service. Aircraft Spruce does NOT carry this part. They
carry the rebuild parts for a different drive coupling. I have attached some
pictures showing the coupling and the engine removal. Again, Thanks to everyone
for your help and support.
Travis :)
--------
Travis Rayner
Mobile, AL
Skystar Vixen
N-789DF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78625#78625
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/vixen_engine_alternator_removal16_609.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/vixen_engine_alternator_removal18_202.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/vixen_alternator_drive_coupling6_144.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/vixen_alternator_drive_coupling5_170.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/vixen_alternator_drive_coupling1_911.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/vixen_alternator_drive_coupling3_105.jpg
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Switch source |
Carlos Trigo a crit :
> <trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pascal GROELL" <pgroell@yahoo.fr>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 3:43 PM
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch source
>
>> Carlos,
>>
>> I will be using the same system and have pretty much decided to
>> delete all the optional switches.
>> I think if the Flaps Positioning System fails, well I'll consider the
>> flaps have failed.
>> I consider that if you have electric flaps on an aircraft you have to
>> be trained to use your machine without flaps.
>> I think adding all backup hardware is looking for more trouble.
>> My 0.02 cents,
>>
>> Pascal GROELL
>> RV-7A #72588
>> www.notreavion.net
>>
>
> Bonjour Pascal
>
> C'est toujous agrable de trouver quelq'un de ce cot de l'Atlantique.
>
> Well, it is really your choice to not use the optional switches, and
> not having the back-up/emergency functionality. However, on one hand,
> that's not what the factory (Aircraft Extras) recommend. On the other
> hand, have you considered what will you do in the following occasions?:
> - you are doing or practicing slow flight, with your flaps at
> the maximum deployment, and the FPS-Plus fails. If you are somewhere
> far from a landing point, you will have to go there very slowly...
> - you are flying towards a short runway airfield, and before
> landing your Flap Posit. system fails. How are you going to land
> without some amount of flaps deployed?
> - You are in short final to any kind of airfield, with your
> flaps deployed at maximum, and suddenly some obstacle occupies your
> runway. If your FPS fails, how are you going to go-around?
>
> Although I'm aware these are low probability situations, they are
> nevertheless some reasons why I want to have back-up/emergency manual
> control of my flaps
>
> Amicalement
> Carlos
Bonjour Carlos,
I would do the same I would do if my flap switch or flap motor would
fail in these situations.
I see no differences.
But that's each builders choice, and I respect yours.
Hope I we can meet one day on this side of the Atlantic.
Happy building.
Pascal
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Switch source |
> Hope I we can meet one day on this side of the Atlantic.
>
> Pascal
And where exactly are you building ?
Next January I will go to Barcelona and do some skiing in the Pyrines, so
if you are in south of France ....
Carlos
Message 6
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Hi Bob, In the John Deere alternator and regulator frequently talked
about here is the rectifier in the regulator? And, Is the
alternator generating 3 phase AC ? And, about what voltage is the
output of the alternator. Also, since we know that the # 5 terminal
must be connected to voltage or the alternator doesn't work. I have
tried this and it is true. Then what is the circuit like? And would
it be a good place to connect the overvoltage crowbar to? Enjoyed
your lectures at Bloomington recently. Cleone
Message 7
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I'm wiring tach pickup wires to a switch that selects which mags gives the tach
signal. This switch is right above the two mag toggle switches. Since I'm using
EIS 4000, they say to wire from the P-lead through a 27k resistor to the
tach selector switch.
Any concerns with just using a small pigtail off of the P-lead wire at the mag
switch (going into the tach selector switch)? I'd prefer not to run another wire
all the way to the mag itself just for tach signal. My concerns here are
noise and functionality (eg. to ensure it works as wired up).
Also, any concerns with running the P-lead shielded wire together with the rest
of wires, or should I find a separate path and firewall penetration just for
these two wires?
PS. Why does 20AWG shielded wire's inner conductor appear to be thinner than regular
20AWG tefzel wire (measured diameter including insulation)? It looks the
same to me as 22AWG tefzel wrapped in shielding (and my stripper won't strip
it at 20AWG setting).
Thanks!
Radomir
--------
RV-7A
N777TY (res)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78685#78685
Message 8
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Subject: | VOR antenna splitter? |
Resurrecting an old thread here. I'm working on building a new panel with a
GNS 430 (needs separate VOR and GS inputs) and a SL-30 (internal diplexer so
needs GS and VOR on same coax). My question is, with the referenced
splitters/couplers, does the glideslope freq range get stripped off of the
VOR outputs? (Real question, if I use the CI-505, will my SL-30 see the GS
freqs from one of the VOR outputs?) I understand I'm getting less energy to
the receivers, but I want to give a single antenna a try before I add a
second during this retrofit.
Thanks much,
John
RV-8 94DW
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2005 5:55 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: VOR antenna splitter?
--> <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:01 PM 4/6/2005 -0400, you wrote:
><mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
>
>I am thinking of adding a Garmin AT SL 30 NavCom to the CNX 80
>
>Both have internal splitters for the localizer and the glide slope. It
>OK to use ONE VOR antenna for both boxes? I recognize I would be
>introducing a single point failure but it seems sufficiently remote. I
>am concerned that both would have adequate signal levels.
>
>An archives search on antenna splitter gave no guidance.
See http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/com_couplers3.php
These work good and last a long time.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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Subject: | VOR antenna splitter? |
This exchange might be helpful...
No. It only passes VOR frequencies. Use our new CI 5120 instead.
Don Jeckell
Comant Industries
Tel (714) 870-2420
Fax (714) 870-5133 x546
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Denton [mailto:bdenton@bdenton.com]
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 2:34 PM
Subject: Question RE: CI-502
Hello!
Does the CI-502 Dual VOR Splitter allow glideslope signals to pass
through
it to the receivers?
Thank you!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John
Erickson
Sent: Saturday, December 2, 2006 4:10 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: VOR antenna splitter?
<john.erickson@cox.net>
Resurrecting an old thread here. I'm working on building a new panel with a
GNS 430 (needs separate VOR and GS inputs) and a SL-30 (internal diplexer so
needs GS and VOR on same coax). My question is, with the referenced
splitters/couplers, does the glideslope freq range get stripped off of the
VOR outputs? (Real question, if I use the CI-505, will my SL-30 see the GS
freqs from one of the VOR outputs?) I understand I'm getting less energy to
the receivers, but I want to give a single antenna a try before I add a
second during this retrofit.
Thanks much,
John
RV-8 94DW
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2005 5:55 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: VOR antenna splitter?
--> <b.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:01 PM 4/6/2005 -0400, you wrote:
><mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
>
>I am thinking of adding a Garmin AT SL 30 NavCom to the CNX 80
>
>Both have internal splitters for the localizer and the glide slope. It
>OK to use ONE VOR antenna for both boxes? I recognize I would be
>introducing a single point failure but it seems sufficiently remote. I
>am concerned that both would have adequate signal levels.
>
>An archives search on antenna splitter gave no guidance.
See http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/com_couplers3.php
These work good and last a long time.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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At 01:18 PM 12/2/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>
>I'm wiring tach pickup wires to a switch that selects which mags gives the
>tach signal. This switch is right above the two mag toggle
>switches. Since I'm using EIS 4000, they say to wire from the P-lead
>through a 27k resistor to the tach selector switch.
>
>Any concerns with just using a small pigtail off of the P-lead wire at the
>mag switch (going into the tach selector switch)? I'd prefer not to run
>another wire all the way to the mag itself just for tach signal. My
>concerns here are noise and functionality (eg. to ensure it works as wired up).
. . . suggest you wire as shown in
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Engine/Ignition/Mags_with_Electronic_Tach_A.pdf
>Also, any concerns with running the P-lead shielded wire together with the
>rest of wires, or should I find a separate path and firewall penetration
>just for these two wires?
No. Run them together with other stuff as long as shields
are grounded as shown above.
>PS. Why does 20AWG shielded wire's inner conductor appear to be thinner
>than regular 20AWG tefzel wire (measured diameter including
>insulation)? It looks the same to me as 22AWG tefzel wrapped in shielding
>(and my stripper won't strip it at 20AWG setting).
Maybe because it's not 20AWG wire but 22AWG.
How do you come to believe that it's actually
20AWG wire. If there's a mil number on the wire
it will looke somethign like 22759/16-20-9 where
22759 is the base spec. Slash 16 is the sub spec.
20 is the AWG and 9 is color. If there's a third
dash number then it's the stripe color.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 11
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Bob, many thanks for the suggestion. I like the simplicity of it very much! :)
Wish I found this drawing before drilling a hole for the selector switch...
but no biggie, the hole can be filled.
I do have a quick follow-up question -- the drawing I was using (toggle mag switches
with start button) call out for 20 AWG shielded wire for P-leads... This
drawing calls out for 18AWG shielded... Any concerns with using 20, which I have
on hand? Or should I be ordering 18?
As for size of the wire.. I got the 20AWG shielded from B&C... Found the numbers
on it and they read: M27500-20 TG1T14 So I guess it is 20AWG.. but again..
I gotta use 22 setting on the stripper to strip it..
Thanks again!
Radomir
--------
RV-7A
N777TY (res)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78713#78713
Message 12
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Cleones wrote:
>
> Hi Bob, In the John Deere alternator and regulator frequently talked
> about here is the rectifier in the regulator?
Yes.
> And, Is the alternator generating 3 phase AC ?
No. It is single phase AC. There are only two wires coming out of it.
> And, about what voltage is the output of the alternator.
It will go up to about 200 volts open circuit but when loaded it will be
in the vicinity of 15 volts depending on how you measure it.
> Also, since we know that the # 5 terminal must be connected to
> voltage or the alternator doesn't work. I have tried this and it is
> true. Then what is the circuit like? And would it be a good place to
> connect the overvoltage crowbar to? Enjoyed your lectures at
> Bloomington recently. Cleone
I interupt the wires into the regulator. In the past Bob has said that
either into or out of the regulator will do the job but I wanted to be
able to cut power to the regulator in case it was overheating or
internally shorted. The regulator uses the battery connection to turn
itself on and to sense the battery voltage so that it can regulate to
14.4 volts nominal output.
Ken
Message 13
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Ummm
Is this a test ;) ?
Why wouldn't 20 awg shielded wire have a 20awg center wire??
Ken
snip
>
>> PS. Why does 20AWG shielded wire's inner conductor appear to be
>> thinner than regular 20AWG tefzel wire (measured diameter including
>> insulation)? It looks the same to me as 22AWG tefzel wrapped in
>> shielding (and my stripper won't strip it at 20AWG setting).
>
>
> Maybe because it's not 20AWG wire but 22AWG.
> How do you come to believe that it's actually
> 20AWG wire. If there's a mil number on the wire
> it will looke somethign like 22759/16-20-9 where
> 22759 is the base spec. Slash 16 is the sub spec.
> 20 is the AWG and 9 is color. If there's a third
> dash number then it's the stripe color.
>
> Bob . . .
Message 14
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Hmm.. but this makes the start button "live" when both mags are off... Is this
a big concern in "real life?" I did like the other drawing a bit better when
the button was live only when left was on and right off.. I guess can't have
it all? :)
--------
RV-7A
N777TY (res)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78721#78721
Message 15
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On Sat, 02 Dec 2006 16:44:14 -0600
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> wrote:
>
> >PS. Why does 20AWG shielded wire's inner conductor appear to be thinner
> >than regular 20AWG tefzel wire (measured diameter including
> >insulation)? It looks the same to me as 22AWG tefzel wrapped in shielding
> >(and my stripper won't strip it at 20AWG setting).
>
> Maybe because it's not 20AWG wire but 22AWG.
> How do you come to believe that it's actually
> 20AWG wire. If there's a mil number on the wire
> it will looke somethign like 22759/16-20-9 where
> 22759 is the base spec. Slash 16 is the sub spec.
> 20 is the AWG and 9 is color. If there's a third
> dash number then it's the stripe color.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
I use quite a bit of the 22 AWG shielded wire. The MIL spec for the
shielded wire I've been using and which seems to be commonly available
is M27500. The insulation is thinner than 22750/16. I haven't seen
shielded wire with 22750/16 conductors.
Bob W.
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
First Flight: 11/23/2006 7:50AM - 0.4 Hours Total Time
Cables for your rotary installation - http://www.roblinphoto.com/shop/
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