Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:26 AM - Aural warning box (Richard Girard)
2. 04:47 AM - Re: Aural warning box (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 05:53 AM - Re: Aux Altenator switching. (Ken)
4. 06:03 AM - Re: Aural warning box (Ken)
5. 06:31 AM - In line fuses - when to use (Terry Miles)
6. 06:34 AM - Re: Questions?? (Ken)
7. 07:29 AM - Re: Aural warning box (Richard Girard)
8. 10:50 AM - Re: Aux Altenator switching. ()
9. 11:46 AM - AEC9005-301-1A Module (Bill Bradburry)
10. 12:35 PM - AW: AEC9005-301-1A Module (Ing. Gottfried Komaier)
11. 12:53 PM - Rotax Aux Altenator switching. (James H Nelson)
12. 05:59 PM - Re: Pitot Current Draw (Speedy11@aol.com)
13. 06:17 PM - Re: Pitot Current Draw (Speedy11@aol.com)
14. 06:25 PM - Re: Pitot Current Draw (Speedy11@aol.com)
15. 06:48 PM - Re: Re: Pitot Current Draw (Mike)
16. 06:49 PM - Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid (Matt & Jo)
17. 07:06 PM - GPS Antenna (Michel Creek)
18. 07:42 PM - Re: Re: Pitot Current Draw (Matt Prather)
19. 07:55 PM - Re: Re: Pitot Current Draw (Rob Wright)
20. 09:14 PM - Re: Rotax Aux Altenator switching. ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Aural warning box |
I just took delivery of a new Trike with an EIS. It has one warning light
located so far out of my line of sight I'm thinking it will be virtually
worthless. Has anyone got any ideas, or better yet built something that
provides an aural warning through the intercom system? I'm thinking of
something more than just a warning horn.
And, as long as I'm here, the trike is powered by an HKS700E 4 stroke engine
that has dual electronic ignitions. According to the manual, and experience
in the field, the ignition systems drop off line when input power drops
below 10 volts. I'd like to add an emergency backup battery for the ignition
system and electric fuel boost pump only. What I'd like is a device that
seamlessly cuts in the backup and warns me so I can get down. A Powersonic
PS 1270 for a battery looks like a good fit, but doesn't allow enough for a
latching relay, too. Is there a circuit that will do what I want with
minimal current draw, too?
Have the moon, wanting the stars, too,
Rick
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Aural warning box |
At 06:25 AM 12/6/2006 -0600, you wrote:
>I just took delivery of a new Trike with an EIS. It has one warning light
>located so far out of my line of sight I'm thinking it will be virtually
>worthless. Has anyone got any ideas, or better yet built something that
>provides an aural warning through the intercom system? I'm thinking of
>something more than just a warning horn.
>And, as long as I'm here, the trike is powered by an HKS700E 4 stroke
>engine that has dual electronic ignitions. According to the manual, and
>experience in the field, the ignition systems drop off line when input
>power drops below 10 volts. I'd like to add an emergency backup battery
>for the ignition system and electric fuel boost pump only. What I'd like
>is a device that seamlessly cuts in the backup and warns me so I can get
>down. A Powersonic PS 1270 for a battery looks like a good fit, but
>doesn't allow enough for a latching relay, too. Is there a circuit that
>will do what I want with minimal current draw, too?
How big is your existing battery. How much current does
the ignition system draw? What kind of alternator and
regulator is installed?
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Aux Altenator switching. |
Weight difference? The JD 20 amp PM is about 2 lb lighter than the 40
amp ND. That could rise to about 2.5 lb if one adds a OV contactor to
the ND. The new ND was cheaper than the JD + regulator though for me.
Theoretically the ND should have a cleaner (less noise) output although
that made no noticeable difference for my system.
I actually agree with Bob's post but I did not have an accessory pad for
a SD-8 and chose a JD rather than a 40 amp ND as a second alternator for
OV considerations as well as the 2.5 lb saving. Perhaps I'm wrong, but I
had more confidence that a small relay would interupt the 20 amp ac
output than I have that a cheap contactor will interupt the 40 amp dc
output. The expensive OV contactor would have cost me more than an ND
alternator and replacing/servicing it would have been more difficult.
Also I prefer not to have excessively large alternators since a small
alternator that is running full on with a failed regulator will cause
the voltage to rise slower than a large unit and it will take longer to
"cook" a battery since less amps are available. With OVM protection most
of that wouldn't matter. However I have an electrically dependant
engine. Many years ago I was in a position of having to cycle a
generator on and off to get out of clouds largely based on how bad the
battery smelled between cycles. As it boiled and melted, the liquid
electrolyte battery absorbed a lot more excess energy than my RG
batteries will. Since there was no low or high voltage warning, the
smell from the battery was the first indication of a problem back then.
Anyway with the JD I know that even worst case I can fairly easilly load
the thing to capacity and manually keep the voltage nominal and that was
attractive to me.
Ken
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
> At 01:03 PM 12/5/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>
>>
>> Yes, the small ND sure has merits and probably had the same issues as
>> any add on alternator for the Rotax. I wont need 40a but 25 or 30
>> would be nice to simplify my electrical system. Then the Rotax
>> marginal unit would just be a backup.
>
>
> Keep in mind that your alternator has two functions: (1) carry the
> max running load for equipment on board and (2) recharge the battery.
> (Battery charging energy) = (alternator energy) - (running loads).
> Just because your alternator is 'oversized' is not necessarily a
> bad or even undesirable thing. If you had a hard time getting the
> engine started or want to go flying after extended ground maintenance
> ops from the battery, then being able to reload the battery quickly
> with just your alternator output is a pretty nifty thing.
>
> What's the weight difference? A 40A ND alternator compared to
> the JD PM alternator + rectifier/regulator? I'll bet it's about
> a wash and for my money, I'd take the 40A ND over a 20A JD
> machine any day.
>
> The SD-8 at 3.5 pounds and its compatibility with the AND20000
> pad on the back of the engine is the recipe for success . . . but
> I've never understood the perceived allure for the larger PM
> alternators as compared to the smaller wound-field devices.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Aural warning box |
Rick
The aural warning part should be easy as I believe all the GRT EIS units
have that feature. In fact I believe mine is a 12 volt square wave
output tone that goes on and off with the warning light. It required
considerable reducing to feed it into the intercom and is pretty loud
even with a 470k resistor between it and my intercom input. Even with a
good light location, it is always the intercom tone that gets my
immediate attention.
Ken
Richard Girard wrote:
> I just took delivery of a new Trike with an EIS. It has one warning
> light located so far out of my line of sight I'm thinking it will be
> virtually worthless. Has anyone got any ideas, or better yet built
> something that provides an aural warning through the intercom system?
> I'm thinking of something more than just a warning horn.
> And, as long as I'm here, the trike is powered by an HKS700E 4 stroke
> engine that has dual electronic ignitions. According to the manual,
> and experience in the field, the ignition systems drop off line when
> input power drops below 10 volts. I'd like to add an emergency backup
> battery for the ignition system and electric fuel boost pump only.
> What I'd like is a device that seamlessly cuts in the backup and warns
> me so I can get down. A Powersonic PS 1270 for a battery looks like a
> good fit, but doesn't allow enough for a latching relay, too. Is there
> a circuit that will do what I want with minimal current draw, too?
>
> Have the moon, wanting the stars, too,
> Rick
>
> --
> Rick Girard
> "Ya'll drop on in"
> takes on a whole new meaning
> when you live at the airport.
Message 5
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| Subject: | In line fuses - when to use |
Hi Bob,
I went to your seminar back about two years ago now at Wicks. I am actively
wiring a Velocity. This is not a theory-like query, I have the wire on the
table and trying to make my drawings work!! Here's the situation:
Due to my size at 150 lbs and the pusher widedeck IO540 hanging off the
end...I will clearly need some ballast in the nose. My decision was a 2nd
battery. I will have two 55 amp hour Optima batteries.
Here's the basic structure:
BATTERY ONE
Thru a dedicated 700 1-2 I will connect the BATT DC1 solenoid output to the
main bus. I will wire the alternator output back to the ship's side of that
same battery contactor to be my distribution line and as a charge wire.
(This same wire will carry the current limiter.)
BATTERY TWO
Thru a dedicated 700 1-2 I will deploy the BATT DC2 solenoid output via an
unfused #8 awg as a dedicated distribution wire to the avionic/critical bus.
There will be no hard wiring between alternator output and my DC2 system
until I close the link between main and avionics busses. I will not wire
the alternator output back to the DC2 battery. The DC2-to-alternator link
will only come thru the commonly accepted main-to-avionics diode logic.
Only after the engine is started will I put the alternator on line, and only
after that will I tie the isolated buses and batteries together thru the
Main to Avionic link. So my question is about when I need in-line current
limiters. Given this design, and with only one alternator, I only need one
in-line current limiter, right? Is it acceptable for me NOT to fuse my
DC2-to-Avionics distribution wire? I will of course fuse all the users
downstream of that.
Thanks for the ear.and the help
Terry Miles
Velocity XL-RG-5
Wiring
Message 6
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Cleones wrote:
>
> At 05:27 PM 12/2/2006, you wrote:
>
>>
>> Cleones wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Hi Bob, In the John Deere alternator and regulator frequently
>>> talked about here is the rectifier in the regulator?
>>
>>
>> Yes.
>>
>>> And, Is the alternator generating 3 phase AC ?
>>
>>
>> No. It is single phase AC. There are only two wires coming out of it.
>>
>>> And, about what voltage is the output of the alternator.
>>
>>
>> It will go up to about 200 volts open circuit but when loaded it will
>> be in the vicinity of 15 volts depending on how you measure it.
>>
>>> Also, since we know that the # 5 terminal must be connected to
>>> voltage or the alternator doesn't work. I have tried this and it is
>>> true. Then what is the circuit like? And would it be a good place
>>> to connect the overvoltage crowbar to? Enjoyed your lectures at
>>> Bloomington recently. Cleone
>>
>>
>> I interupt the wires into the regulator. In the past Bob has said
>> that either into or out of the regulator will do the job but I wanted
>> to be able to cut power to the regulator in case it was overheating
>> or internally shorted.
>
>
>> The regulator uses the battery connection to turn itself on and to
>> sense the battery voltage so that it can regulate to 14.4 volts
>> nominal output.
>>
>> Ken
>
>
> Ken,
>
>> Thanks. Let me consider this. So.. doesn't this indicate
>> using a NO relay? This circuit might be carring very high current at
>> the time the relay opened. Hopefully the contacts would not be
>> welded closed and the spinning alternator would not be delivering
>> current to the regulator and we would achieve the desired results. I
>> don't know if an attempt to fuse the AC output at a little more than
>> the rated current of the alternator is called for or not. This might
>> not be advisable because it might cause the charging to be shut down
>> unnecesarily. Do you agree with my thoughts? Also regarding the # 5
>> connection of the regulator. I started the engine and made sure the
>> alternator was working with the wire connected and then redid this
>> with the wire off. The first time the voltage was about 14 volts and
>> the second time it was just a little over 12. Thanks again.
>
> Cleone
Cleone
Yes I use a NO relay. My alternator switch applies power to the
"Battery" connection on the regulator and to the OVM module and it
closes the NO relay. Your voltage readings are indeed what I would
expect to see.
Fusing the output of an alternator won't provide Over Voltage
protection. It is done to simply to protect the wire from battery
current if the alternator should short out. So in this case my fuse or
circuit breaker is between the battery and the regulator to protect the
wire from overheating because of battery supplied current if there is a
short in the regulator or the alternator. I think I had a 30 amp CB on
hand and used that.
I hope I'm not muddying this for you. My wires from the alternator to
the regulator are sized at 12 awg to handle the 20 amp max output so
they are not at risk from the alternator if the regulator shorts.
Putting the OV relay in those ac wires would provide a means of
disconnecting the supply to the regulator though which is what I did.
Ken
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Aural warning box |
Bob, Good morning. The alternator is a PM type that puts out 210 watts above
4000 RPM. The regulator is a zener diode unit supplied with the engine. The
only information I can find on current draw for the ignition is that the
CDI's require 3 amp fuses. The battery is an 18ah AGM type.
I searched the online manuals for any revisions to the ones supplied with
the engine and this is all the info I can find.
Rick
On 12/6/06, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckollsr@cox.net> wrote:
>
> nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
> At 06:25 AM 12/6/2006 -0600, you wrote:
>
> >I just took delivery of a new Trike with an EIS. It has one warning light
> >located so far out of my line of sight I'm thinking it will be virtually
> >worthless. Has anyone got any ideas, or better yet built something that
> >provides an aural warning through the intercom system? I'm thinking of
> >something more than just a warning horn.
> >And, as long as I'm here, the trike is powered by an HKS700E 4 stroke
> >engine that has dual electronic ignitions. According to the manual, and
> >experience in the field, the ignition systems drop off line when input
> >power drops below 10 volts. I'd like to add an emergency backup battery
> >for the ignition system and electric fuel boost pump only. What I'd like
> >is a device that seamlessly cuts in the backup and warns me so I can get
> >down. A Powersonic PS 1270 for a battery looks like a good fit, but
> >doesn't allow enough for a latching relay, too. Is there a circuit that
> >will do what I want with minimal current draw, too?
>
> How big is your existing battery. How much current does
> the ignition system draw? What kind of alternator and
> regulator is installed?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> < What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
> < the authority which determines whether there can be >
> < debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
> < scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
> < with experiment. >
> < --Lawrence M. Krauss >
> ---------------------------------------------------------
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Aux Altenator switching. |
With regard to installing an additional charging devise on a Rotax 91X
four stroke, the vacuum pad spins slower than a Lyc. or Cont.
I know of no alternator larger than the SD20S that will fit on the vacuum
pad, with the SD20S being of the very best quality. I forget the exact
output of the SD20S using a LR3C (that eats a bit of power compared to a
switcher) but at cruise ~ 18 amps sounds correct on a 12 volt system.
You need the short nose SD20S (not SD20) to fit the Rotax. If you look on
B+Cs website under Cessna 210 for the SD20S. The output is identical to
the SD20, just the shorter nose. Actual it is a beautiful custom casting
drive side half of the alternator, the drive coupling is awful nice as
well.
If anyone knows of a 40 amp alternator that will put out above 30 amps on
a Rotax vacuum, I am all ears.
Some have taken a 40 amp alternator and drive it direct off the crankshaft
with a flex coupling and bracket it off the engine mount.
A bit off topic but semi pertinent:
Keep your Ducati Rotax regulator as cool as you can
If you ask more than 12 amps continuous from the Rotax generator the
regulator will fail in short order. If you keep changing regulators the
windings supposedly fail on the generator
SD20S with a LR3C is probably more robust at 18 amps than the supposedly
18 or 20 amp internal generator is at 12 amps.
I plan to limit continuous of the SD20S to ~15 amps
I forget exact set point of Ducati, think 13.6 or 13.7 volts, the LR3C
comes with ~14.4 but is adjustable. If you have both chargers on line, the
SD20S will do for the most part most of the work if setpoint is above the
Rotax generator. At less than cruise RPM the SD20S will not put out 18
amps, at taxi RPM not even close, I am not flying yet, but I believe that
the Rotax generator will help out a little at this time if the SD20S is
slumping voltage down to Ducati setpoint.
If you do use a SD20S, make sure you use one vacuum pad gasket, but be
sure to measure that the male driven spline on the SD20S is not bottomed
inside the female drive spline. (No big deal if it is, a few strokes on
the plastic male spline with a file rectifies (the fit) on the alternator!
Perhaps there is .750" of engagement, I needed to remove on my 914 .070",
not even up to the edge of the chamfer)
Ron Parigoris
Message 9
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| Subject: | AEC9005-301-1A Module |
Bob,
I intended to set my plane up following the Z-19 drawing. It appears
that the Over/under voltage monitor module is no longer available. I
can find no link to the instructions for building one?? Are the boards
you were selling still available or are they gone?
How should I reconfigure the Aux battery switch if the "auto" capability
is no longer available?
Thanks for your excellent support and assistance for the OBAM group.
I notice that most of your daily responses start at around 3:00-3:30
AM!!! When,(if??) do you sleep??!!
Bill B
Message 10
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| Subject: | AEC9005-301-1A Module |
Bill,
if you are searching only for an Over/Under Voltage Sensor: "BC207-1" is
what you will need . Have a look at:
www.bandcspecialty.com/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?6X358218
Gottfried
Vienna/Austria
-----Ursprngliche Nachricht-----
Von: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] Im Auftrag von Bill
Bradburry
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 06. Dezember 2006 20:46
An: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Betreff: AeroElectric-List: AEC9005-301-1A Module
--> <bbradburry@allvantage.com>
Bob,
I intended to set my plane up following the Z-19 drawing. It appears that
the Over/under voltage monitor module is no longer available. I
can find no link to the instructions for building one?? Are the boards
you were selling still available or are they gone?
How should I reconfigure the Aux battery switch if the "auto" capability is
no longer available?
Thanks for your excellent support and assistance for the OBAM group.
I notice that most of your daily responses start at around 3:00-3:30 AM!!!
When,(if??) do you sleep??!!
Bill B
Message 11
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| Subject: | Rotax Aux Altenator switching. |
Hi Ron
Yup! I'm the origional designer and buillder of the 40A
alternator off the crankshaft. The Rotax series engine is just not
capable of anything approaching what we want for electrical power. We
are all electrical hogs in our wants on the panel. I'm guilty as I now
have a Lycosoris with a 60A alternator and a back up of 8A on the vac.
pad. on my new build. We just have to reconcile our "needs" with what we
"want". Its the same as my new build for the emergency or just to get by
power source of 8A. What do you not "need". Part of the thoughts are
what will you need that requires so much power. I went with LED running
lights to reduce the power req. for night flight. Plus, landing lights
are needed for only a short time and thus can run off the battery for the
short time in the pattern. The game for Rotax drivers is to minimise the
electrical loads and still get the stuff you really "need" and have your
"AA" batterys for back up for the hand held transmitter and GPS. What
else do you really need? I know- just look at my new panel and see how
the pot is calling the kettle black! But I've been there with my Europa
and I used the 40A alt and used about 18 to 20 but it was because of the
strobe light system requirements. It would really hog the power when
charging the capacitors for the next pulse. The real key would be a
maker of strobes that used less power.
Jim Nelson
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot Current Draw |
Chuck,
You have just experienced the main thing I dislike about this forum. When
you ask for advice or assistance, you will commonly get critique on why you
should not do what it is you want to do. It takes several attempts at explaining
that you don't care about opinions - you simply want assistance. For example,
I've asked how to sample volts and amps in multiple places in my electrical
system. I got "you don't need to know that info while you're flying."
Regardless, I want to be able to do that so how can I do it? Answer: since I don't
think you should do that I'm not going to tell you how to do it.
As you've discovered, getting an answer can be very frustrating.
Still, I've learned a lot about electrical stuff here and I continue to
learn. So, I still find the forum of value.
I wish I had the answer for you - I would provide it. But, I don't.
Hopefully, you will get an acceptable answer.
Stan Sutterfield
Okay, I appreciate everyone holding forth that it's stupid to fly in
ice....I'm not that dumb, I only look it. However, the question stands,
how does one knock down the heat and current draw. Richard mentioned a
'strut switch'....whoever that is. Can someone enlighten us
non-electrical types. What I'm concerned about is being in the clouds,
close to freezing and loose electrical--I'd just as soon not have to
turn off the pitot heat because it's sucking the battery dry in short
order; I'd rather it be in long order.
Chuck Jensen
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot Current Draw |
Ernest,
Please explain what you mean by a cockpit referenced backup altimeter. I
don't think I've ever heard of any thing like that. And how would it help keep
you from hitting the ground?
Maybe you're referring to alternate static air. But the question wasn't on
heating the static port - it was on losing pitot ram air to ice.
Personally, I'll take the heated pitot.
Stan Sutterfield
A cockpit referenced backup altimeter would seem to give the best bang for
the $
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot Current Draw |
Bret,
Chuck is not suggesting he would continue flying in IMC in icing conditions.
In fact, he hasn't suggested he would even let himself get into that
situation. He simply wants to know how to wire his airplane to accomplish two
pitot
heat settings - low and high.
I surmise from your comments, since you said "icing or not" that you believe
the loss of main alternator in IMC with the potential for icing (less than 10
degrees Celsius) is not an emergency situation. I would classify that as a
emergency, whether I'm in a C-172 or a whiz-bang OBAM aircraft.
Stan Sutterfield
As for me, icing or not, if I lose my main alternator, I would
switch on Endurance mode (which is only 8 amps...thus, no pitot) and land
that puppy ASAP. This is not an emergent situation. Not so with your stock
Cessna.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot Current Draw |
The only way I can answer this question is to tell a story. First,
flying in the ice is something many pilot do every year and sometimes
often. If you know what you=92re doing and are prepared then the risks
are minimal. I have been flying in ice with airplanes that are able to
handle it for better then 20 years. It=92s not like flying on a sunny
day. But once you get use to it and prepare for it, it=92s not that big
of a deal. A few words of advice, no two icing days are the same. Only
experience will help you here. My personal feeling on ice in piston
powered planes, you don=92t have many out when the weather gets bad.
When
in ice greater then light find a place to land ASAP.
As for you electric question; First the easy answer is to put a bigger
battery in the airplane. Second, why would you think that using less
power for pitot heat is going to be any better then turning the pitot
heat off all together? Unless you run a thermal equation on the speed,
temperature, and heat (layman=92s terms) required to guarantee the
anti-ice properties needed, then everything your doing is just a big
guess anyway. And I guessing that since I have to go to the book to do
said equation thoroughly, I would guess the electrical formula by
comparison would be a piece of cake. I know this is not what you want
to hear but the facts are the facts. The reason that the pitot uses so
much power (in general) is that is what it takes to keep ice off the
probe in 100% humidity at temperatures < 10dec C.
Sorry for the poor and somewhat sarcastic answer, but I think Chuck
brought it out in me.
Regards,
Mike Larkin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Speedy11@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 6:57 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Pitot Current Draw
Chuck,
You have just experienced the main thing I dislike about this forum.
When you ask for advice or assistance, you will commonly get critique on
why you should not do what it is you want to do. It takes several
attempts at explaining that you don't care about opinions - you simply
want assistance. For example, I've asked how to sample volts and amps
in multiple places in my electrical system. I got "you don't need to
know that info while you're flying." Regardless, I want to be able to
do that so how can I do it? Answer: since I don't think you should do
that I'm not going to tell you how to do it.
As you've discovered, getting an answer can be very frustrating.
Still, I've learned a lot about electrical stuff here and I continue to
learn. So, I still find the forum of value.
I wish I had the answer for you - I would provide it. But, I don't.
Hopefully, you will get an acceptable answer.
Stan Sutterfield
Okay, I appreciate everyone holding forth that it's stupid to fly in
ice....I'm not that dumb, I only look it. However, the question stands,
how does one knock down the heat and current draw. Richard mentioned a
'strut switch'....whoever that is. Can someone enlighten us
non-electrical types. What I'm concerned about is being in the clouds,
close to freezing and loose electrical--I'd just as soon not have to
turn off the pitot heat because it's sucking the battery dry in short
order; I'd rather it be in long order.
Chuck Jensen
"http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
"http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
"http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com
"http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribu
tion
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List"http://www.matroni
cs.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
--
11/22/2006
--
11/22/2006
Message 16
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| Subject: | Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid |
I have a Jabiru 3300 and have a 702-1 starter contactor from B&C.
Looking at Z-20, from aeroelectric, they are running the 4 AWG wire to
the starter solenoid. It looks like the "solenoid" supplied by Jabiru
is really just another contactor. It is wired and works the same as the
702-1 but with out the diode. If I hook it up as depicted in Z-20 all
I will be doing is to energize the coil on the Jabiru supplied solenoid
with the 4 AWG wire from the 702-1. It sure looks to me that all I will
be doing is putting two contactors in series. I am not sure of the
value in this. I am considering just leaving off the Jabiru solenoid
and connecting the 702-1 directly to the starter.
Is this smart or is there something I am missing?
Thanks
Matt
www.zodiacxl.com
Message 17
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Are GPS antennas generic so they can be hooked up to any receiver? A
friend of mine has a L1/L2 antenna manufactured by Sensor Systems and wants
to hook it up to a handheld Lowrance.
Mike C.
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot Current Draw |
Here's an idea that may draw snickers, jeers, and possibly gasps of
horror. My sister (like lots of peoples' sisters) has a curling iron
heated by butane.. Why doesn't anyone have a pitot tube heated directly
by the combustion of a hydrocarbon (gasoline/jetA might be problematic
without a pump). It would be tremendously efficient compared to hauling
around a gigantic alternator. It would run for hours on a tiny amount of
fuel. It could be thermostatically controlled, and be amazingly light
weight.
I know, it's not an "electric" idea...
Matt-
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot Current Draw |
For developing your own answer based upon your stated needs, I'll defer to
Bob N. and the other smart aeroelectric types. For an off-the-shelf
solution that may also fit your needs, have you looked at
http://www.gretzaero.com/ga1000.html?
Rob Wright
RV-10 with Gretz Aero
Fuselage
~snip~
The GA-1000 is Gretz Aero's totally new design of a heated Pitot tube. It is
molded from a very high-tech Polymer material that has nearly the same
thermal conductivity as
metal. This new design has electronics embedded in the Pitot tube. It also
comes with a small electronic control module that will mount close to the
Pitot tube in the wing. This electronic control module controls the heat of
the Pitot and provides information to the pilot regarding thermal and heater
performance of the Pitot tube. This information is presented by way of a
3/16 inch diameter multi-conductor cable that has a very small circuit board
with three LED's on it. This LED circuit board is already attached to the
cable. The LED circuit board is designed to be placed behind the panel and
allow the LED's to protrude through the panel at a convenient location to
the pilot.
The three LED's are: Green = circuits are working and temperature of Pitot
tube is well above freezing: Yellow = current is being provided to the
heater due to low temperature: Red = temperature is low at the Pitot tube
and needs heat. There will be times when one or two LED's will be lit. If no
LED's are lit, there is a problem with power getting to the Pitot tube.
The GA-1000 is great for small electrical generating systems in light
aircraft. The heater in the Pitot draws 7 Amps, and that is only when the
electronic control module calls for heat. The heater will cycle on and off
as needed to maintain the proper temperature. During the times when heat is
not needed or called for, the electronic control module draws less than .1
Amp.
The Gretz Aero GA-1000 heated Pitot tube comes complete with: GA-1000 heated
Pitot tube, electronic control module, LED circuit board and cable, screws
for Pitot tube to mounting bracket installation, mounting hardware for
mounting the electronic control module, and of course, complete
instructions. The complete weight of the entire kit is 397 grams or 14.0
oz.
The GA-1000 Pitot tube has a very sleek and modern shape that is pleasing to
the eye. It is very dark gray to black in color. If the builder feels the
need, it can be painted with automotive high temperature engine paint. This
is available at most auto parts stores. The GA-1000 will fit the standard
Gretz Aero Pitot Tube <http://www.gretzaero.com/mountbracket.html> Mounting
Bracket Kits.
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Speedy11@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 7:57 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Pitot Current Draw
Chuck,
You have just experienced the main thing I dislike about this forum. When
you ask for advice or assistance, you will commonly get critique on why you
should not do what it is you want to do. It takes several attempts at
explaining that you don't care about opinions - you simply want assistance.
For example, I've asked how to sample volts and amps in multiple places in
my electrical system. I got "you don't need to know that info while you're
flying." Regardless, I want to be able to do that so how can I do it?
Answer: since I don't think you should do that I'm not going to tell you how
to do it.
As you've discovered, getting an answer can be very frustrating.
Still, I've learned a lot about electrical stuff here and I continue to
learn. So, I still find the forum of value.
I wish I had the answer for you - I would provide it. But, I don't.
Hopefully, you will get an acceptable answer.
Stan Sutterfield
Okay, I appreciate everyone holding forth that it's stupid to fly in
ice....I'm not that dumb, I only look it. However, the question stands,
how does one knock down the heat and current draw. Richard mentioned a
'strut switch'....whoever that is. Can someone enlighten us
non-electrical types. What I'm concerned about is being in the clouds,
close to freezing and loose electrical--I'd just as soon not have to
turn off the pitot heat because it's sucking the battery dry in short
order; I'd rather it be in long order.
Chuck Jensen
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Aux Altenator switching. |
Hello Jim
"The real key would be a maker of strobes that used less power."
I am using Kunzleman strobes with a combo head. The 2 strobes I think draw
2 amps, and the LED position draws not much.
Ron Parigoris
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