Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:18 AM - Experimental conversion (Jim Duckett)
2. 12:44 AM - Re: DYMO RhinoPRO3000 label writer (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mich=E8le_Delsol?=)
3. 04:48 AM - Re: Safe cabin heater (glen matejcek)
4. 05:55 AM - Re: DYMO RhinoPRO3000 label writer (rtitsworth)
5. 06:04 AM - Re: Conversion to Experimental (Chuck Jensen)
6. 07:47 AM - Re: Re: Safe cabin heater (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 08:05 AM - Re: Re: Safe cabin heater (Ralph E. Capen)
8. 08:40 AM - Alternate feed to Lightspeed (Charles Kaluza)
9. 09:39 AM - Re: Safe cabin heater (Cleones)
10. 09:42 AM - Re: DYMO RhinoPRO3000 label writer (springcanyon)
11. 10:11 AM - Re: Alternate feed to Lightspeed (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 10:16 AM - Re: Z-13 v. SD-8 distribution Diagrams (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 10:52 AM - Re: GNS430 VLOC/GPS wiring (Eric Parlow)
14. 03:06 PM - Elect. map guage (Bill and Marsha)
15. 04:02 PM - Re: DYMO RhinoPRO3000 label writer (Jae Chang)
16. 04:39 PM - Re: DYMO RhinoPRO3000 label writer (Bill Boyd)
17. 05:31 PM - Annunciator Panel Update? (bcondrey)
18. 06:00 PM - Re: GNS430 VLOC/GPS wiring (Kevin Horton)
19. 07:18 PM - Re: Conversion to Experimental (Kelly McMullen)
20. 07:18 PM - Re: DYMO RhinoPRO3000 label writer (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
21. 10:10 PM - Re: Heat shrink labelling (Carl Morgan)
Message 1
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Subject: | Experimental conversion |
Case in point as to what Dan Lloyd said, after selling my -6 and
starting my -7a I bought a Teenie 2 to stay in the air. After the
recnet rule changes the Teenie 2 now falls under the LSA rules but, only
IF you are the builder, I'm not. Because I am not the orginal builder,
it is, and will always be registered as an "Eperimental", and because I
do not hold a Repairmans Cert. for it, must always have the annual done
by an A&P.
>From what I have found out in this cases anyway, I can not convert it to
a LSA (if I wanted to) unless I build a new ship (look Horton, no holes)
and register it under the LSA rules.
As with any "Experimental" I can add modify, upgrade, repair, etc.
nearly anything I want to as long as the aircraft remains (performs)
within it's category limitations and meets the intention of the AW Cert.
Just my two cents
Jim D.
Do Not Archive
Message 2
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Subject: | DYMO RhinoPRO3000 label writer |
You have to use the Rhyno 5000 cartridges - they come as yellow tubing which
has been flatened in several sizes.
Michele
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of sarg314
Sent: mercredi 13 dcembre 2006 02:01
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: DYMO RhinoPRO3000 label writer
Michele:
Do you have to use a special type of heat shrink, or will any old
type work?
Michle Delsol wrote:
<michele.delsol@microsigma.fr>
>
>I've been using the Rhyno 5000 - I find that I have to be really careful on
>printing the labels - many in a single pass so as not to minimize waste.
The
>yellow heat shrink tubes are really expensive and if not careful, one can
go
>through them at a pace which makes the labels a significant cost item. For
>that matter, it is much like colour printers - cheap printer but you get
>whacked on the cartridges. This being said, I find the Rhyno a great
product
>and time saver.
>
>Michele
>RV8 - Finishing
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | RE: Safe cabin heater |
Hi All-
>It wouldn't even "work" in your airplane because it requires 120V, not 12V.
IIRC, the Vari-eze crowd was installing 12V ceramic heaters to keep their
toes alive in the winter. Sorry, I don't recall any specifics, but I think
that those who employed this technology were happy with it. Then again,
they WERE in plastic airplanes... ; - )
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 4
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Subject: | DYMO RhinoPRO3000 label writer |
Just curious...
Does the 3000/5000 shrink tubing come rolled up into a special cartridge
along with an ink tape - or do you feed the flattened tubing in separately?
Has anyone experimented with flattening "regular" heat shrink tubing and
then trying to print/label on it? I think I even have some white "regular"
tubing that came flattened. Does anyone with a 3000 or 5000 have a picture
of the tubing before printing/cutting? How long is the flattened tubing
before printing/cutting? Is there any "leader" on it? Is there any waste
at the ends when printing? How do the small sizes stay centered when
printing?
Rick
Message 5
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Subject: | Conversion to Experimental |
Given the many postings about all the hurdles to conversions, one comes
away with the over-mastering impression that the FAA is THE hurdle. Not
that it's unsafe, unwise or stupid, but it's a bad idea because the FAA
says so. I can understand the FAA being control freaks for commercial
aviation--a lot of traveling people are involunatarily putting
themselves in situation out of their control and they deserve protection
from unscrupulous, unsafe operators. Whether the FAA accomplishes that
or not, some may argue with, but the intent is clear.
But as we step down the aviation food chain, why the FAA feels the need
to obsess over control of personal aircraft is less understandable. Is
it so outrageous an idea that if someone wants to put 6" letters
EXPERIMENTAL on an aircraft, that they shouldn't have great leeway in
what they do...much as the OBAM does? Owning a C150 that was not owner
built and is subsequently converted to Experimental is no different than
owning an RV that was built by someone else. Both have to be inspected
by an A&P. How is one more, or less, safe than the other?
With that said, and given the personality of the FAA, I stand amazed
(and thankful) that the 51% rule was reviewed and the repercussions seem
to have been minimal--to date. This initially looked very much like the
proverbial 'camel's nose under the tent' problem, but the FAA seemed to
show considerable restraint in reining in the most egregious examples
that were pushing the boundaries without going on a boundless witch
hunt.
Gads, if only the world were perfect!!
Chuck Jensen
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: RE: Safe cabin heater |
The only 28v VariEz I worked on was for a builder in Canada who
wanted to fly in the wintertime . . . and wanted to use all-electric
heat. We put a 28v, 100A alternator on the airplane. About 5A of
that was used to run the airplane, 80+ amps were used to heat the
cabin. Most of the "toe warmers" offered by suppliers to OBAM aircraft
were selling 300W fan-heaters. This guy built a 2200 watt fan heater
and reported "usable" performance for all but the coldest days but
even this boss hog heater was too small until he spent a lot of time
sealing the cockpit.
Bob . . .
At 07:45 AM 12/13/2006 -0500, you wrote:
><aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
>
>Hi All-
>
> >It wouldn't even "work" in your airplane because it requires 120V, not 12V.
>
>IIRC, the Vari-eze crowd was installing 12V ceramic heaters to keep their
>toes alive in the winter. Sorry, I don't recall any specifics, but I think
>that those who employed this technology were happy with it. Then again,
>they WERE in plastic airplanes... ; - )
>
>glen matejcek
>aerobubba@earthlink.net
>
>
>--
>12/11/2006 4:32 PM
>
>
>-- incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: RE: Safe cabin heater |
Can't you still buy 12V hair dryers that the trailer campers used to use...?
Obviously, sealing the airframe is a prerequisite.......
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>Sent: Dec 13, 2006 9:46 AM
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RE: Safe cabin heater
>
>
>The only 28v VariEz I worked on was for a builder in Canada who
>wanted to fly in the wintertime . . . and wanted to use all-electric
>heat. We put a 28v, 100A alternator on the airplane. About 5A of
>that was used to run the airplane, 80+ amps were used to heat the
>cabin. Most of the "toe warmers" offered by suppliers to OBAM aircraft
>were selling 300W fan-heaters. This guy built a 2200 watt fan heater
>and reported "usable" performance for all but the coldest days but
>even this boss hog heater was too small until he spent a lot of time
>sealing the cockpit.
>
>Bob . . .
>
>At 07:45 AM 12/13/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>
>><aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>>
>>
>>Hi All-
>>
>> >It wouldn't even "work" in your airplane because it requires 120V, not 12V.
>>
>>IIRC, the Vari-eze crowd was installing 12V ceramic heaters to keep their
>>toes alive in the winter. Sorry, I don't recall any specifics, but I think
>>that those who employed this technology were happy with it. Then again,
>>they WERE in plastic airplanes... ; - )
>>
>>glen matejcek
>>aerobubba@earthlink.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>--
>>12/11/2006 4:32 PM
>>
>>
>>
>>-- incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>>Checked by AVG.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> < What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
> < the authority which determines whether there can be >
> < debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
> < scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
> < with experiment. >
> < --Lawrence M. Krauss >
> ---------------------------------------------------------
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Alternate feed to Lightspeed |
We have 360 hours on our RV6A with one mag and the Lightspeed II unit
which has worked well. We have had one kickback when starting on the
Lightspeed with a low battery. Spoke with Klaus about using my backup
battery as an additional power source for the unit. He thought it would
be fine as long as I used a Shottky diode (90SQ030) to prevent back feed
from the auxiliary battery to the main. The engine starts better on the
Lightspeed but we have been starting on the mag since the kickback.
I am debating using power from the E-Bus which I have activated during
start vs. running the Aux. power direct from the Aux. battery. The
second option would allow better charging of the Aux. battery. I worry
about excess current flow if the Aux. battery is low causing the 5 amp
fuse on the Lightspeed to blow. Any advice?
The Aux. battery is currently charged through my Rocky Mountain monitor.
Thanks for the help.
Kaluza
Message 9
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Subject: | Safe cabin heater |
At 12:43 AM 12/13/2006, you wrote:
>
>Or look at heated seat inserts here
>http://www.classicaerodesigns.com/web/public/Products/ProductDetail.asp?Prod
>uctID=37&ProductCategory=Accessories&ProductCategoryID=1
>
>Or use motorcycle clothes that plug into 12 volt accessory outlet, very
>warm. Very low power consumption because its close to your skin and covered
>by your outer clothes.
>
>Bevan
>Thanks to all who have made comments. I will stop in a motorcycle
>shop and see just what the power consumption is at the first
>opportunity. If they can keep their toes from getting frostbitten I
>won't make a heoric effort to close up every leak in the
>cabin. Ha. Cleone PS; Wonder what an 82 year old would look like
>in leather.?
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard
>Riley
>Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 9:27 PM
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Safe cabin heater
>
>--> <richard@riley.net>
>
>At 08:21 PM 12/12/2006, you wrote:
>
> ><retasker@optonline.net>
> >
> >And I live in New Jersey and have a bridge for sale cheap near New York...
> >Does this "work"? Yes, it puts out heat - the exact same amount any
> >other electric heater of the same wattage does. It might be safer than
> >other heaters if it really operates at a lower temperature, but a watt
> >is a watt.
> >
> >It wouldn't even "work" in your airplane because it requires 120V, not 12V.
>
>If you want to stay warm with a 12v electrical system, look into electric
>snowmobile pants and jackets.
>
>
>--
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | DYMO RhinoPRO3000 label writer |
And furthermore, is there a better printer out there that some are using to
mark shrink tubing?
Don Owens
Just curious...
Does the 3000/5000 shrink tubing come rolled up into a special cartridge
along with an ink tape - or do you feed the flattened tubing in separately?
Has anyone experimented with flattening "regular" heat shrink tubing and
then trying to print/label on it? I think I even have some white "regular"
tubing that came flattened. Does anyone with a 3000 or 5000 have a picture
of the tubing before printing/cutting? How long is the flattened tubing
before printing/cutting? Is there any "leader" on it? Is there any waste
at the ends when printing? How do the small sizes stay centered when
printing?
Rick
--
11:49 AM
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Alternate feed to Lightspeed |
At 08:31 AM 12/13/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>We have 360 hours on our RV6A with one mag and the Lightspeed II unit
>which has worked well. We have had one kickback when starting on the
>Lightspeed with a low battery. Spoke with Klaus about using my backup
>battery as an additional power source for the unit. He thought it would
>be fine as long as I used a Shottky diode (90SQ030) to prevent back feed
>from the auxiliary battery to the main. The engine starts better on the
>Lightspeed but we have been starting on the mag since the kickback.
>
>I am debating using power from the E-Bus which I have activated during
>start vs. running the Aux. power direct from the Aux. battery. The second
>option would allow better charging of the Aux. battery. I worry about
>excess current flow if the Aux. battery is low causing the 5 amp fuse on
>the Lightspeed to blow. Any advice?
>
>The Aux. battery is currently charged through my Rocky Mountain monitor.
This issue (and others like it) have surfaced dozens of times
over the past 15 years. There are some products not designed to
work in the real world of airplanes. In this case, a software
fix to the product in question would prevent inadvertent kick-backs
due to low bus voltage or any other stimulus.
Adding an aux battery per Z-30 has always been the universal
Band-Aid for this phenomenon. Further, it offers an opportunity
to run other electrically-dependent engine accessories from
a "protected" supply.
No diodes needed (therefore no charging issues). Battery may
be any practical size needed to address your endurance needs.
Closing the contactor may be automatic . . .
See: http://aeroelectric.com/articles/lvwarn/LVWarn-ABMM.pdf
or manual or manual with warnings . . .
See: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9011/9011-700-1C.pdf
Any item needed to keep an engine running should be operated
from an always-hot battery bus . . . if you got bad smells in
the cockpit, you need to be able to shut EVERYTHING down
without having the engine quit.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Z-13 v. SD-8 distribution Diagrams |
At 02:38 PM 12/11/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>I m in the process of wiring up the SB005-1 (S704-1?) relay with the SD-8
>volt regulator and the OVM. The SD-8 distribution diagram (Dwg 504-500 rev
>E, 9/29/04) seems to differ from the Z-13 diagram and I m wondering which
>to follow. Dwg. 504-500 refers to the relay as SB005-1, and elsewhere, it
>looks like the part number is S704-1. I m not sure if these are one in the
>same or not.
>
>
>The photo at
><http://www.bandc.biz/S704-1_tips.html>http://www.bandc.biz/S704-1_tips.html
>is even different and includes an additional diode installed where the
>OVM-14 should be installed.
>
>
>Anyone have a good diagram or guidance on which drawing is correct? I m
>thinking that Z-13 may be the correct drawing for the application.
Both are.
The S704-1 and similar relays (like eggs, flour and milk)
are used in a variety of recipes and each recipe may treat
that ingredient in a manner that is not consistent elsewhere.
When you're baking a cake, you don't take a handful of recipes
from multiple sources and then attempt to resolve differences
between them. When someone publishes a recipe, you need
to know if it's from a credible source and if the recipe is
a demonstrated pathway to success. If those conditions are
satisfied, then run with it.
Bob . . .
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: GNS430 VLOC/GPS wiring |
The HSI is a Century NSD-1000(Electric)
Is there a unique config in the 430 for this HSI?
>
>A friend has a GNS430 with an HSI in his RV8A.
>He's starting to train for IFR in it.
>
>When he switches from VLOC to GPS tracking the HSI does not switch to
>track the GPS waypoint.
>It continues to track the VOR or Localizer.
>Is this a wiring issue?
Which make and model HSI? Is this one of the HSIs that is covered in the
GNS400 Series Installation Manual?
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 14
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Subject: | Elect. map guage |
I am wiring up my Grand Rapids EIS and found out that the model that I
have only has one aux input. I had planed on useing one input for Fuel
press. and the second for Manifold pressure. With only one aux input
available on my unit, I've decided to use it for fuel press. which
allows for a low press warning. MAP doesn't need a warning so I will
use a guage. I already have a Grand Rapids Manifold press sensor output
0 to 5volts. Does anyone know whair I can get an electric 2-1/4"
0-5volt map guage? Thanks Bill S.
Message 15
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Subject: | DYMO RhinoPRO3000 label writer |
Here is a P-touch labeller on sale for $68.43 at buy.com with free shipping.
http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=10372536&loc=101&sp=1&adid=17662
I don't have one, but just noticed it and remembered the discussion on this
list. It piqued my curiosity. I wanted to know what these labels actually looked
like, since I have never seen one.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0002AZ2RY/pricegrabbercpc11-20/ref=nosim
The link on amazon.com has a better picture. It actually shows a few sample
wires with wire labels attached. It sure does look nice for labelling wires.
One comment on here, though, mentions that he thought quite a bit of the labels
were wasted.
I am probably years away from needing one.
Jae
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: DYMO RhinoPRO3000 label writer |
Seems like a golden business opportunity for someone with a deluxe-o
labelling set-up: market a kit of pre-printed heat shrink wire labels
in various alpha and numeric combinations as well as commonly used
words, like comm1, nav2, audio in, etc. Printed in bulk, they're
bound to be more cost-effective than wasting alot of $5 / foot heat
shrink in your own home ;-)
-Bill B
On 12/13/06, Jae Chang <jc-matronics_aeroelectric@jline.com> wrote:
>
> Here is a P-touch labeller on sale for $68.43 at buy.com with free shipping.
>
> http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=10372536&loc=101&sp=1&adid=17662
>
> I don't have one, but just noticed it and remembered the discussion on this
> list. It piqued my curiosity. I wanted to know what these labels actually looked
> like, since I have never seen one.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0002AZ2RY/pricegrabbercpc11-20/ref=nosim
>
> The link on amazon.com has a better picture. It actually shows a few sample
> wires with wire labels attached. It sure does look nice for labelling wires.
>
> One comment on here, though, mentions that he thought quite a bit of the labels
> were wasted.
>
> I am probably years away from needing one.
>
> Jae
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Annunciator Panel Update? |
Anybody got an update on the potential annunciator panel that was being discussed
several months ago?
Thanks
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81412#81412
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: GNS430 VLOC/GPS wiring |
My old copy of the Garmin Installation Manual shows how to wire the
NSD-1000 HSI, and there is no mention of any special issues. I
looked at the list of configuration menu items, and didn't see any
that were obviously relevant to your problem.
My installation manual shows a possible cause. The HSI lateral and
vertical deviations are supposed to be wired to pins on connector
4001. These pins send either VLOC or GPS deviations, depending on
what is selected. But, there are VLOC only lateral and vertical
deviation pins on connector 4006. I can't find a description of what
comes out of those pins if the GNS 430 is selected to GPS, but it is
possible that they would continue to send VLOC data. Maybe your
friend's HSI is connected to those pins rather than the ones on
connector 4001.
Who did the wiring?
Kevin Horton
On 13 Dec 2006, at 13:49, Eric Parlow wrote:
> <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
>
> The HSI is a Century NSD-1000(Electric)
> Is there a unique config in the 430 for this HSI?
>
>>
>> A friend has a GNS430 with an HSI in his RV8A.
>> He's starting to train for IFR in it.
>>
>> When he switches from VLOC to GPS tracking the HSI does not
>> switch to track the GPS waypoint.
>> It continues to track the VOR or Localizer.
>> Is this a wiring issue?
>
> Which make and model HSI? Is this one of the HSIs that is covered
> in the GNS400 Series Installation Manual?
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Conversion to Experimental |
Well, a TC aircraft has to be inspected by an A&P?IA annually, unlike an
OBAM.
Chuck Jensen wrote:
> Owning a C150 that was not owner
> built and is subsequently converted to Experimental is no different than
> owning an RV that was built by someone else. Both have to be inspected
> by an A&P. How is one more, or less, safe than the other?
>
> W
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: DYMO RhinoPRO3000 label writer |
Since I started this discussion, thought I'd chime in on my purchase
decision. I've opted for a Brady ID Pal, for about $100. It doesn't print
heat-shrink tubing, but the Dymo Rhyno cartridges are pretty pricey for only 5
feet of
tube. The standard cartridges are smaller (less total length) on the Dymos,
and Brady claims there is less waste (margin) on their labels. We'll see..
My thinking is that if I really NEED a heat-shrink tube label, I'll make a
standard label and apply a clear shrink-tube around it. Usual suspects might be
anything FWF. But the MAJOR factor was that using the wrap-around labels,
you can print up to 4 (I think) lines of text on each label- a no-brainer since
this kind of label is vastly easier to read when you are standing on your head
with a maglite in your teeth trying to find the "E1-26A" wire in that bundle
going to the audio panel. Whatever. My best investigations indicate that the
heat-shrink tubes only get one line of text- not too handy, IMHO...
Will produce a "product evaluation report" upon reciept and use of Brady
label machine...
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
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Subject: | Heat shrink labelling |
Just another approach.
We got 400 pairs of numbered heat shrink, 300 pairs of 3/32" and 100 pairs
of 1/4" - Each label being 3/4" long, www.merithian.com - total cost was
about US$60.
Every wire / cable then has one label on each end and a spreadsheet for look
up for wire size / termination / routing / function.
So far has worked really well.
Carl
--
ZK-VII - RV 7A QB - finishing? - New Zealand
http://www.rvproject.gen.nz/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Fiveonepw@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, 14 December 2006 4:17 p.m.
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: DYMO RhinoPRO3000 label writer
Since I started this discussion, thought I'd chime in on my purchase
decision. I've opted for a Brady ID Pal, for about $100. It doesn't print
heat-shrink tubing, but the Dymo Rhyno cartridges are pretty pricey for only
5 feet of tube. The standard cartridges are smaller (less total length) on
the Dymos, and Brady claims there is less waste (margin) on their labels.
We'll see..
My thinking is that if I really NEED a heat-shrink tube label, I'll make a
standard label and apply a clear shrink-tube around it. Usual suspects
might be anything FWF. But the MAJOR factor was that using the wrap-around
labels, you can print up to 4 (I think) lines of text on each label- a
no-brainer since this kind of label is vastly easier to read when you are
standing on your head with a maglite in your teeth trying to find the
"E1-26A" wire in that bundle going to the audio panel. Whatever. My best
investigations indicate that the heat-shrink tubes only get one line of
text- not too handy, IMHO...
Will produce a "product evaluation report" upon reciept and use of Brady
label machine...
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
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