AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Wed 12/27/06


Total Messages Posted: 7



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:51 AM - Re: Z14 contactor(s) circuit question (Ken)
     2. 07:55 AM - Re: Avionics Switch (Roger Bentlage)
     3. 09:57 AM - "Broken and Garbled" (Ron Patterson)
     4. 12:10 PM - Re: Z14 contactor(s) circuit question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     5. 03:34 PM - Re: Homemade Avionics/Electrical component bench tester (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     6. 04:21 PM - Re: Homemade Avionics/Electrical component bench tester (Ernest Christley)
     7. 06:44 PM - Re: Back-Up Battery ground (Speedy11@aol.com)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:51:04 AM PST US
    From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
    Subject: Re: Z14 contactor(s) circuit question
    Hi Rick FWIW I believe I added a fuse link (about two inches of 26awg wire inside glass sphaghetti as per the B&C kit) anywhere that I reduced wiring size to 22awg from a heavier than 5 amp protected circuit. As you say, the risk of the specific failure that you describe has to be very low so I think a fuse link makes more sense than a fuse. They don't really take up space and I would expect no corrosion or maintanance issues within a couple of lifetimes... Ken rtitsworth wrote: > >Bob, etal, > >I noticed on the Z-14 schematic there is not a breaker, nor fuse, nor >fuseable link, anywhere along the current path from the battery(s) to the >battery contactor master switch(es) on the panel (and then to ground). > >A short (wire failed to ground) between the contactor and the switch would >just keep the contactor closed (the same as the switch being on) and thus no >risk of additional damage, fire, etc. (due to the resistance of the >contactor coil). > >However, if the contactor itself failed internally and shorted the power >terminal to the switch/coil terminal, it seems the 22AWG switch wire would >fry. > >Perhaps the likelihood of that is so remote as to outweigh the complexity/ >risk of an additional component in the circuit. However, breakers and fuses >are pretty reliable and with Z14 there is Bus#2 and the cross tie, which >could be used if the #1 master breaker/fuse failed and caused the #1 >contactor to open (and/or vise versa). > >Thus, I am thinking of perhaps putting a fuse(s) in-line with the master >switch(es). Thoughts? > >Rick > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:55:21 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Avionics Switch
    From: "Roger Bentlage" <bentlage@sbcglobal.net>
    Steve, I have completed the electrical/avionics portion of a RV-7. It's a dual batt, dual alt, dual electronic ignition, all glass panel, etc. I opted for avionics master (2) switches although there seem to be arguments against their necessity. I will attempt to attach a .DXF file of the electrical schematic and pic of the panel. If that doesn't work I'll be glad to send them seperately if you're interested. Roger RV-7 finishing (at last) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83764#83764 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/instrument_panel_2_1_186.jpg


    Message 3


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    Time: 09:57:24 AM PST US
    From: Ron Patterson <scc_ron@yahoo.com>
    Subject: "Broken and Garbled"
    I have had poor reception from towered airports with my XCOM and now that my radio is out for repair, poorly received transmissions with my ICOM handheld A5. I've even tried hooking up my aircraft Comant antenna to the ICOM but it didn't improve how others hear me (or don't). Could I need some filter or something? This seriously limits my entry into controlled airspace so any fix ideas are appreciated. Ron - RV-4 N8ZD@yahoo.com


    Message 4


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    Time: 12:10:48 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Z14 contactor(s) circuit question
    At 10:06 PM 12/26/2006 -0500, you wrote: ><rtitsworth@mindspring.com> > >Bob, etal, > >I noticed on the Z-14 schematic there is not a breaker, nor fuse, nor >fuseable link, anywhere along the current path from the battery(s) to the >battery contactor master switch(es) on the panel (and then to ground). > >A short (wire failed to ground) between the contactor and the switch would >just keep the contactor closed (the same as the switch being on) and thus no >risk of additional damage, fire, etc. (due to the resistance of the >contactor coil). > >However, if the contactor itself failed internally and shorted the power >terminal to the switch/coil terminal, it seems the 22AWG switch wire would >fry. > >Perhaps the likelihood of that is so remote as to outweigh the complexity/ >risk of an additional component in the circuit. However, breakers and fuses >are pretty reliable and with Z14 there is Bus#2 and the cross tie, which >could be used if the #1 master breaker/fuse failed and caused the #1 >contactor to open (and/or vise versa). > >Thus, I am thinking of perhaps putting a fuse(s) in-line with the master >switch(es). Thoughts? Your hypothesized failure is somewhere on the same order of probability as being hit by a meteor while on short final. The published configurations have been evaluated MANY times for nearly a century but have remained unchanged. I can see no return on investment for adding this feature. Bob . . . --------------------------------------------------------- < What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that > < the authority which determines whether there can be > < debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of > < scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests > < with experiment. > < --Lawrence M. Krauss > ---------------------------------------------------------


    Message 5


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    Time: 03:34:34 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Homemade Avionics/Electrical component bench
    tester At 09:19 PM 12/26/2006 -0800, you wrote: > >Anybody have a lead on plans/instructions for a simple homemade avionics >bench tester? One that would include a 12V battery, batter charger, and a >box with a couple of switches and 3-4 different amp circuits protected by >fuses? The idea would be to drive the various electonic components simply >by hooking them into the correct circuit, based on its current draw; >thinks like lights, flashers, servos, etc.. Your words don't paint a lucid image of your request. "Bench testing" is generally the simplest combination of power supply, input-output simulation and interconnections to allow a technician to exercise and/or troubleshoot any given device's capabilities. This isn't so much a "tester" as a combination of tools chosen and assembled for a specific task. At the other extreme, one might consider bench top simulators where ALL the components of a proposed system may be operated together and exercised to explore and prove functionality of each system's features and inter-system integration issues. I'd suggest you begin by acquiring the rudimentary test tools. Multimeter and power supply. There are some excellent buys on the 'net. We have perhaps a dozen power supplies in our shop of all sizes but one of my favorites is similar to this one: http://tinyurl.com/ycj6wu Many accessories can be powered up with just a bench supply. This particular supply will allow you to adjust voltage and measure the appliance's current draw. Each appliance calls for its own "test fixture" . . . the connectors, wires, controls and input/output ports needed to exercise that particular appliance. Here . . . http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Test_Fixtures.jpg is but a handful of hundreds of fixtures that I've crafted over the years to exercise various pieces of airplane hardware on the bench. This is why your request for A schematic for A test fixture didn't ring any bells as to a simple answer. Perhaps I mis-understood your question and you can elaborate further? Bob . . .


    Message 6


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    Time: 04:21:44 PM PST US
    From: Ernest Christley <echristley@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Homemade Avionics/Electrical component bench
    tester Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > I'd suggest you begin by acquiring the rudimentary > test tools. Multimeter and power supply. This is for the true, die-hard, born'n'bread cheapskates, like myself. Harbor Freight has multimeters for $3 nearly all the time. That's cheap enough that I don't have to waste time wondering where I put my meter. I just sprinkle the shop with a liberal supply. A 12V power supply can be had for nothing by grabbing the next ATX computer you see someone throwing out. Scavenge the power supply. It will give you a steady 12V if you connect the GREEN wire to one of the BLACK wires. It won't turn on otherwise. It also has a range of other voltages, usually printed on the side of the power supply. I have one installed placed where my battery will go, allowing me to test things as they're installed. It's only good for a few amps, but the price is right.


    Message 7


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    Time: 06:44:02 PM PST US
    From: Speedy11@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Back-Up Battery ground
    Carlos, Good luck getting a helpful answer on this list. You can normally get little more than criticism and ridicule. It sounds as though you have a ground wire running from your main battery to the aft portion of the fuselage and you want to know if connecting your back-up battery in the aft fuselage to that same ground wire will cause any problems. Is that correct? Stan Sutterfield Do not archive Please forget the reason why I may want to put the Avionics Back-Up battery in the tail, and please answer the electric questions: - Can I connect the (-) terminal of that battery to the tail's ground lug, which is isolated from the fuselage and is directly connected to the (-) terminal of the "Main" battery ? - Can I continue to use that same ground lug to connect the other grounds ( from the tail light, the strobe beacon, and the elevator trim motor) there? - Isn't there any possibility of "ground loop"? Carlos




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