Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:48 AM - Re: Homemade Audio Panel (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 06:41 AM - Ohm drop for welder's cable (Terry Miles)
3. 06:41 AM - The problem with George (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 07:16 AM - Re: Ohm drop for welder's cable (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 08:30 AM - Re: Homemade Audio Panel (John Coloccia)
6. 09:02 AM - Re: Homemade Audio Panel (Ron Shannon)
7. 09:11 AM - Re: SD-8 Alternator Wiring (Valovich, Paul)
8. 09:20 AM - Re: Homemade Audio Panel (Dan Morrow)
9. 09:58 AM - Is garbage picked SWR meter useful? ()
10. 10:16 AM - Solder tab connectors (Greg Young)
11. 10:35 AM - Re: Is garbage picked SWR meter useful? (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
12. 10:40 AM - Re: Is garbage picked SWR meter useful? (Bill Boyd)
13. 10:59 AM - Re: Is garbage picked SWR meter useful? (Dave N6030X)
14. 10:59 AM - Re: Is garbage picked SWR meter useful? (Matt Prather)
15. 11:12 AM - Re: Is garbage picked SWR meter useful? (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
16. 11:34 AM - Re: Is garbage picked SWR meter useful? ()
17. 11:39 AM - Re: IR alternators in airplanes (JUST say NO to OV relays) ()
18. 04:18 PM - Re: Solder tab connectors (Rodney Dunham)
19. 05:19 PM - Re: Solder tab connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 05:20 PM - Re: Solder tab connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 06:52 PM - Re: Ohm drop for welder's cable (Terry Miles)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Homemade Audio Panel |
At 12:57 PM 1/25/2007 -0600, you wrote:
>
>Hi All,
>
>I have an experimental aircraft I built. It currently has one comm
>radio. I am
>interested in adding a second comm radio. To do this, one must be able to
>switch between the radios. The common method for this is to install in audio
>panel of which there are many versions on the market. The problem with these
>solutions is that they have lots of switches such as nav radios, dme, adf,
>etc.
> Does anyone know if a unit that only has switches for 2 comm radios? The
>closest I can find is the PMA-4000 which also includes an intercom and 2 nav
>inputs. I already have an intercom which handles my needs fine. I was
>thinking of adding a 2 position, 3 circuit switch for radio selection. The 3
>circuits would be for audio, mic, and ptt. If I wanted to expand this system,
>I could add a pair of 2 position, 1 circuit switches to allow the radio
>that is
>not selected with the first 3 circuit switch.
>
>Any thoughts/comments would be appreciated.
Suggest you review . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev11/18Audio_R11.pdf
and stir the concepts discussed into your deliberations
and design plans. Also see . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/DIY/Audio_Isolation_Amplifier.pdf
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 2
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Subject: | Ohm drop for welder's cable |
Does anybody know the ohm drop per 1000 feet for welder's cable? Or failing
that number....is welders cable likely to have more (or have less) line
resistance than Tefzel 2awg would have?
Thanks
Terry
Message 3
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Subject: | The problem with George |
George, you've been asked politely before to
cease your disruptive behaviors in this classroom.
If we're to interpret your latest rants as an
unwillingness to comply with a simple-request,
I'll have to make sure new-comers to the List
are aware of your track record.
I'm not going to respond to the lack of understanding
and substance in your last postings. Instead,
I've published a small excerpt from our past
conversations at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/gmcjetpilot.html
I considered posting it at the time you were asked
to leave some months ago but held off after you
appeared to honor my request. Since you've chosen
to resume your old counter productive and disruptive
habits, it seems prudent to let everyone know what
you're about and share a snapshot of what we've already
experienced with your unwelcome activities here on
the List.
Do the honorable thing sir.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Ohm drop for welder's cable |
At 09:40 AM 1/26/2007 -0500, you wrote:
><terrence_miles@hotmail.com>
>
>
>Does anybody know the ohm drop per 1000 feet for welder's cable? Or failing
>that number....is welders cable likely to have more (or have less) line
>resistance than Tefzel 2awg would have?
Assuming that the manufacturer of any kind of wire understands
the various standards for specifying the makeup and performance of
wire, then you're on solid ground to compare the resistance values
of anyone's 2AWG, 4AWG etc wire irrespective of type or intended use.
You used the phrase "welders cable" . . . know that it comes in
a variety of sizes including 0, 2, 4 and 6AWG. If you purchase
2AWG welding cable, it's a fair bet that the resistance is the
same as M22759 2AWG cable.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Homemade Audio Panel |
Neat, Bob. Do you happen to have a design for a Marker Beacon receiver
kicking around anywhere?
-John
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
> At 12:57 PM 1/25/2007 -0600, you wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I have an experimental aircraft I built. It currently has one comm
>> radio. I am
>> interested in adding a second comm radio. To do this, one must be
>> able to
>> switch between the radios. The common method for this is to install
>> in audio
>> panel of which there are many versions on the market. The problem
>> with these
>> solutions is that they have lots of switches such as nav radios, dme,
>> adf, etc.
>> Does anyone know if a unit that only has switches for 2 comm
>> radios? The
>> closest I can find is the PMA-4000 which also includes an intercom
>> and 2 nav
>> inputs. I already have an intercom which handles my needs fine. I was
>> thinking of adding a 2 position, 3 circuit switch for radio
>> selection. The 3
>> circuits would be for audio, mic, and ptt. If I wanted to expand
>> this system,
>> I could add a pair of 2 position, 1 circuit switches to allow the
>> radio that is
>> not selected with the first 3 circuit switch.
>>
>> Any thoughts/comments would be appreciated.
>
> Suggest you review . . .
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev11/18Audio_R11.pdf
>
> and stir the concepts discussed into your deliberations
> and design plans. Also see . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/DIY/Audio_Isolation_Amplifier.pdf
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------
> ( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
> ( what ever you do must be exercised )
> ( EVERY day . . . )
> ( R. L. Nuckolls III )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Homemade Audio Panel |
For a marker beacon receiver kit, see http://rstengineering.com
Ron
John Coloccia wrote:
> <john@ballofshame.com>
>
> Neat, Bob. Do you happen to have a design for a Marker Beacon receiver
> kicking around anywhere?
>
> -John
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: SD-8 Alternator Wiring |
Life is indeed harder when you're stupid. I submitted the above from
memory while on the road. What I really meant to say was Z-13 / 8.
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Homemade Audio Panel |
>>When I transmit on one, I turn the volume down on the other so as not to
>>hear the squeal. It's not the best way, but it's definitely the cheapest
>>way.
I believe most com radios have a suppressor line output. They can be wired
so that when one is transmitting the other's receiver is turned off.
Message 9
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Subject: | Is garbage picked SWR meter useful? |
I acquired form a garbage pick (Ham gave it to me some years back) a
Micronta Field Strength / SWR Tester
On bottom it says MFGed for Rat Shack with a CAT# 21-525B
The connectors in the backfor ANT and TRANS have a serrated crown, are
610" in diameter and the center hole looks like it takes a pin .150" in
diameter.
The SWR goes from 1 to 3 and a red area from bout 3 to 4 that says CAL
Also below that scale is a scale (%)REF POWER and ranges from 0 to 5
There is a switch that has a setting for REF and FWD and an adjustable
knob that is labeled CAL
One more thing, a small hole in the top that looks like you plug into that
is labeled FS ANT and is ~ .077" in diameter.
Sorry bout these Newbie questions:
Could I use this meter to test my Becker Mode C Transponder and Com.?
What settings and scale would I use and what am I looking for?
If this is unusable, any recommendations on what would be a good tool for
the job?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 10
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Subject: | Solder tab connectors |
I find myself with a raft of switches that have solder tab connectors (no
fastons available) and must confess to ignorance of the accepted wiring
technique for them. The only picture book I could find was for a rotary
switch and that showed the wire soldered flat to the tab without any
mechanical connection thru the hole. Is this the norm for all solder tabs or
just due to the nature of the rotary switch? If a mechanical connection
before soldering is desirable I can envision several ways of doing it and
have probably used them all on the occasional connector I've encountered in
the past. This time I have a panel full of them and would like to make it as
neat and tidy as possible. Is there a best or accepted method or does it not
really matter in our applications? Thanks.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Is garbage picked SWR meter useful? |
http://www.flycom.co.uk/antenna_swr.htm
http://www.bellscb.com/cb_radio_hobby/swr.html
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
From: <rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US>
>
> I acquired form a garbage pick (Ham gave it to me some years back) a
> Micronta Field Strength / SWR Tester
>
> On bottom it says MFGed for Rat Shack with a CAT# 21-525B
>
> The connectors in the backfor ANT and TRANS have a serrated crown, are
> 610" in diameter and the center hole looks like it takes a pin .150" in
> diameter.
>
> The SWR goes from 1 to 3 and a red area from bout 3 to 4 that says CAL
>
> Also below that scale is a scale (%)REF POWER and ranges from 0 to 5
>
> There is a switch that has a setting for REF and FWD and an adjustable
> knob that is labeled CAL
>
> One more thing, a small hole in the top that looks like you plug into that
> is labeled FS ANT and is ~ .077" in diameter.
>
>
> Sorry bout these Newbie questions:
>
> Could I use this meter to test my Becker Mode C Transponder and Com.?
>
> What settings and scale would I use and what am I looking for?
>
> If this is unusable, any recommendations on what would be a good tool for
> the job?
>
> Thx.
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
<html><body>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><A href="http://www.flycom.co.uk/antenna_swr.htm">http://www.flycom.co.uk/antenna_swr.htm</A></DIV>
<DIV><A href="http://www.bellscb.com/cb_radio_hobby/swr.html">http://www.bellscb.com/cb_radio_hobby/swr.html</A></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>lucky</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: <rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US>
<BR><BR>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by:
<RPARIGOR@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US><BR>> <BR>> I acquired form a garbage pick
(Ham gave it to me some years back) a <BR>> Micronta Field Strength / SWR
Tester <BR>> <BR>> On bottom it says MFGed for Rat Shack with a CAT# 21-525B
<BR>> <BR>> The connectors in the backfor ANT and TRANS have a serrated
crown, are <BR>> 610" in diameter and the center hole looks like it takes
a pin .150" in <BR>> diameter. <BR>> <BR>> The SWR goes from 1 to
3 and a red area from bout 3 to 4 that says CAL <BR>> <BR>> Also below
that scale is a scale (%)REF POWER and ranges from 0 to 5 <BR>> <BR>> There
is a switch that has a setting for REF and FWD and an adjustable <BR>>
knob that is labeled CAL <BR>> <BR>> One more t
hing,
AeroEl
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 12
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|
Subject: | Re: Is garbage picked SWR meter useful? |
That's a "CB" style meter good through perhaps 50 MHz. Not reliable
(not properly calibrated) at VHF comm frequencies and certainly not at
transponder ones. Connectors are UHF-style coax (SO-239) and won't
fit anything on your plane, most likely.
Tell us what kind of "testing" you had in mind. Transmitting into a
poorly matched load might damage what you are trying to "test."
-Bill B
On 1/26/07, rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us> wrote:
>
> I acquired form a garbage pick (Ham gave it to me some years back) a
> Micronta Field Strength / SWR Tester
>
> On bottom it says MFGed for Rat Shack with a CAT# 21-525B
>
> The connectors in the backfor ANT and TRANS have a serrated crown, are
> 610" in diameter and the center hole looks like it takes a pin .150" in
> diameter.
>
> The SWR goes from 1 to 3 and a red area from bout 3 to 4 that says CAL
>
> Also below that scale is a scale (%)REF POWER and ranges from 0 to 5
>
> There is a switch that has a setting for REF and FWD and an adjustable
> knob that is labeled CAL
>
> One more thing, a small hole in the top that looks like you plug into that
> is labeled FS ANT and is ~ .077" in diameter.
>
>
> Sorry bout these Newbie questions:
>
> Could I use this meter to test my Becker Mode C Transponder and Com.?
>
> What settings and scale would I use and what am I looking for?
>
> If this is unusable, any recommendations on what would be a good tool for
> the job?
>
> Thx.
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Is garbage picked SWR meter useful? |
Ron, a lot of the SWR meters are designed for HF and won't work worth
crap at VHF (your Com) or UHF (your transponder). You'll need to
check that particular model and find out if it is designed to work at
VHF, but a quick Google search here makes me believe it is for HF
only. The serrated crown connectors are called SO-239 and are
designed to mate with PL-259 plugs on coax that are most common for
HF antennas.
Dave Morris
N5UP
At 10:57 AM 1/26/2007, you wrote:
>
>I acquired form a garbage pick (Ham gave it to me some years back) a
>Micronta Field Strength / SWR Tester
>
>On bottom it says MFGed for Rat Shack with a CAT# 21-525B
>
>The connectors in the backfor ANT and TRANS have a serrated crown, are
>610" in diameter and the center hole looks like it takes a pin .150" in
>diameter.
>
>The SWR goes from 1 to 3 and a red area from bout 3 to 4 that says CAL
>
>Also below that scale is a scale (%)REF POWER and ranges from 0 to 5
>
>There is a switch that has a setting for REF and FWD and an adjustable
>knob that is labeled CAL
>
>One more thing, a small hole in the top that looks like you plug into that
>is labeled FS ANT and is ~ .077" in diameter.
>
>
>Sorry bout these Newbie questions:
>
>Could I use this meter to test my Becker Mode C Transponder and Com.?
>
>What settings and scale would I use and what am I looking for?
>
>If this is unusable, any recommendations on what would be a good tool for
>the job?
>
>Thx.
>Ron Parigoris
>
>
Message 14
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|
Subject: | Re: Is garbage picked SWR meter useful? |
I believe that SWR meter was designed for CB frequency - something around
10meter band ~30MHz. Your com is VHF, around 118-136MHz. The meter won't
be very accurate at giving absolute SWR readings in the VHF band, but
should be able to tell you some information about relative
feedline/antenna efficiency. Lower readings are better. "1" is ideal.
The transponder runs closer to 1GHz frequency range. Your meter will be
even less efficient in that band. Plus, the meter is designed to work
with the transmitter putting out power continuously. With the comm you
can force that condition just be holding down the PTT key. On a
transponder that would be tougher to accomplish - probably requires a test
harness.
I think what you need is an antenna tester designed for the proper
frequency range. Something like this would work for the comm:
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/products.php?prodid=MFJ-269
I believe you would need something more $ophi$ticated for testing the
transponder. Probably something specifically designed for testing
transponders would be the most cost effective.
Your meter probably has PL-259 connectors on it...
http://www.seed-solutions.com/gregordy/images/pl259n01.jpg
They can be attached to RG-58 cable and that can be connected to BNC
fittings..
Regards,
Matt-
>
> I acquired form a garbage pick (Ham gave it to me some years back) a
> Micronta Field Strength / SWR Tester
>
> On bottom it says MFGed for Rat Shack with a CAT# 21-525B
>
> The connectors in the backfor ANT and TRANS have a serrated crown, are
> 610" in diameter and the center hole looks like it takes a pin .150" in
> diameter.
>
> The SWR goes from 1 to 3 and a red area from bout 3 to 4 that says CAL
>
> Also below that scale is a scale (%)REF POWER and ranges from 0 to 5
>
> There is a switch that has a setting for REF and FWD and an adjustable
> knob that is labeled CAL
>
> One more thing, a small hole in the top that looks like you plug into that
> is labeled FS ANT and is ~ .077" in diameter.
>
>
> Sorry bout these Newbie questions:
>
> Could I use this meter to test my Becker Mode C Transponder and Com.?
>
> What settings and scale would I use and what am I looking for?
>
> If this is unusable, any recommendations on what would be a good tool for
> the job?
>
> Thx.
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Is garbage picked SWR meter useful? |
Guess I should mention that from what I found a CB SWR was better than nothing
for the VHF frequencies in aviation. You can get BNC to p259 adapters at radio
shack for about $6 each. You'll probably need 2 of them. Secondly, though
the absolute value read on the meter won't likely be "actual" value, the trend
will still be reliable. In otherwords, if you have a real bad connector and
are getting a lot of reflection, the meter isn't going to move much towards the1.0
value on the meter regardless of whether it's a CB band SWR or VHF fre SWR.
If it's a really good antenna "system" the meter will move towards 1.0 anyway
regardless of meter type even if it's not an "exact" correct value.
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
From: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
http://www.flycom.co.uk/antenna_swr.htm
http://www.bellscb.com/cb_radio_hobby/swr.html
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
From: <rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US>
>
> I acquired form a garbage pick (Ham gave it to me some years back) a
> Micronta Field Strength / SWR Tester
>
> On bottom it says MFGed for Rat Shack with a CAT# 21-525B
>
> The connectors in the backfor ANT and TRANS have a serrated crown, are
> 610" in diameter and the center hole looks like it takes a pin .150" in
> diameter.
>
> The SWR goes from 1 to 3 and a red area from bout 3 to 4 that says CAL
>
> Also below that scale is a scale (%)REF POWER and ranges from 0 to 5
>
> There is a switch that has a setting for REF and FWD and an adjustable
> knob that is labeled CAL
>
> One more t hing, AeroEl
<html><body>
<DIV>Guess I should mention that from what I found a CB SWR was better than nothing
for the VHF frequencies in aviation. You can get BNC to p259 adapters
at radio shack for about $6 each. You'll probably need 2 of them.
Secondly, though the absolute value read on the meter won't likely be "actual"
value, the trend will still be reliable. In otherwords, if you have
a real bad connector and are getting a lot of reflection, the meter isn't going
to move much towards the1.0 value on the meter regardless of whether it's a
CB band SWR or VHF fre SWR. If it's a really good antenna "system" the meter
will move towards 1.0 anyway regardless of meter type even if it's not an
"exact" correct value.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>lucky</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: luckymacy@comcast.net
(lucky) <BR>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><A href="http://www.flycom.co.uk/antenna_swr.htm">http://www.flycom.co.uk/antenna_swr.htm</A></DIV>
<DIV><A href="http://www.bellscb.com/cb_radio_hobby/swr.html">http://www.bellscb.com/cb_radio_hobby/swr.html</A></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>lucky</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: <rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US>
<BR><BR>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by:
<RPARIGOR@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US><BR>> <BR>> I acquired form a garbage pick
(Ham gave it to me some years back) a <BR>> Micronta Field Strength / SWR
Tester <BR>> <BR>> On bottom it says MFGed for Rat Shack with a CAT# 21-525B
<BR>> <BR>> The connectors in the backfor ANT and TRANS have a serrated
crown, are <BR>> 610" in diameter and the center hole looks like it takes
a pin .150" in <BR>> diameter. <BR>> <BR>> The SWR goes from 1 to
3 and a red area from bout 3 to 4 that says CAL <BR>> <BR>> Also below
that scale is a scale (%)REF POWER and ranges from 0 to 5 <BR>> <BR>> There
is a switch that has a setting for REF and FWD and an adjustable <BR>>
knob that is labeled CAL <BR>> <BR>> One more t
hing,
AeroEl <PRE><B><FONT face="courier new,courier" color=#000000 size=2>
</B></FONT></PRE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Is garbage picked SWR meter useful? |
Hello Bill
Thx. for the reply.
"Tell us what kind of "testing" you had in mind."
Testing would be to find optimum antenna location and or wire routing to
make radios function best.
Vertex Handheld VX700 driven by a Advanced Aircraft bent in half (or
not)(that is one of the tests)
Becker Com driven by a Bob Archer antenna in top of tail, need to test
locations and orientations and play with bending part of the top swept
back a little for an easier fit
Becker 250 watt mode C transponder driven by a Advanced Aircraft antenna,
want to fool with location (pitch tube and cables)
It would be very nice to see how all 3 antenna is propagate signal,
somehow walk around and see just how much that motor and gear is
blanketing??
Ron Parigoris
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: IR alternators in airplanes (JUST say NO to OV |
relays)
>From: john@ballofshame.com
>
>External OV protection with an external regulator is solid state.
>When the crowbar trips, the field is grounded, thus driving the
>alternator output to 0. The fact that the field circuit breaker pops
>some time later is beside the point. If you wanted to you could
>wire the the field with a massive bus bar and leave the circuit
>breaker out completely. The field wire will be at 0 potential going
>into the regulator because it's grounded. Of course, doing this
>would destroy your battery in short order.
>
>Putting OV protection on internal regulators requires the relay
>to work and is much kludgier. Though the module might be the
>same, they function COMPLETELY differently and shouldn't be
>confused.
>
>-John
>www.ballofshame.com
John I'm aware how the OV relay / crow bar combo works on
an I-VR, and I know how a crow bar works on an E-VR.
Yes, they are different.
With the E-VR you kill the FIELD. Great! I understand you think
the crow bar will short the field to ground. Well from what I've
seen it removes power to the VR that collapses the FIELD.
It depends how you wire the crow bar, and according to Bob's
schematics the crow bar goes right on the CB not the field
terminal of the VR. Whether it shorts the field or shorts the
CB removing power to the FIELD, it's no matter; the real key
is the alternator FIELD collapses and power is not produced
by the alternator.
On the "Kludgier" OV relay for a I-VR, I agree it works different
and is a "Kludgier". That is my point.
You make a point I've made many times, I-VR and E-VR are
completely different and should not be confused. Trying to
use OLD technology originally made for E-VR, like the OV
relay, is not the way to go today.
Bob's new module will open an OV relay by removing
power to the relay. It may be an improvement to the original
crow bar, which was kind of unstable, but the concept is the
same, a BIG OLD OV RELAY.
My point is LEAVE the I-VR alternator alone and don't
mess with it. Wire it properly and operate it properly.
If you can't stand it and are in fear of OV do something
else.
The best on the market for I-VR are the Plane Power units,
where the I-VR has an integrated OV module that does
turn the power off to the VR and FIELD, verses an OV relay
which just cuts the out put with the FIELD still energized.
It should give peace of mind to those who are afraid of OV.
It does it elegantly with out a BIG OV RELAY.
John I basically agree with everything you said, but a typical
E-VR is stuck in the 70's. The $10 Ford alternator people use
has about 3 transistors and a diode voltage reference. Yes it
is solid state but OLD solid state. Even the B&C LR3C
that sells for $230 is really a three transistor old design. It
does have a crow bar in it, but that crow bar is an old idea.
The new stuff has solid state power switching. Short circuiting
CB's to trip/short them internally to remove power to the
FIELD (or shorting the field as you like) is really NOT the way
to go in the year 2000's.
I-VR's have more technology and have been the focus of
technological improvement, since most small alternators
made since the early 80's are all internally regulated. If you
are tempted to add a OV relay for peace of mind consider
NOT doing it, and if you really are worried, get a Plane
Power unit.
If you do have an E-VR alternator the $70 Transpo V1200
is a modern E-VR that uses technology that I-VR's have,
as well as OV protection. With the Transpo V1200, an OV
condition is shut down by removing power to the FIELD. It
does not short anything to ground like a crow bar.
Cheers George
---------------------------------
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in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
Message 18
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Subject: | Solder tab connectors |
Greg,
Try this link...
www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Jack_Tab_Soldering/Jack_Tab_Soldering.html
Rod
DO NOT ARCHIVE
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Subject: | Re: Solder tab connectors |
At 12:10 PM 1/26/2007 -0600, you wrote:
>I find myself with a raft of switches that have solder tab connectors (no
>fastons available) and must confess to ignorance of the accepted wiring
>technique for them. The only picture book I could find was for a rotary
>switch and that showed the wire soldered flat to the tab without any
>mechanical connection thru the hole. Is this the norm for all solder tabs
>or just due to the nature of the rotary switch?
Depends on who is defining "norm" . . . There are many a folk who
would roll their eyes and pronounce the speaker short on sanity
for suggesting that wires be "tacked" into place with solder.
But skillfully lapped joints are done every day and produce
conductors that run the lifetime of the vehicle. See:
Go to my homepage and do a search on "solder sleeve". You'll
get 7 hits on articles that discuss the joining of wires with
nothing more than lapped, tack-soldered joints covered with
heat shrink. See also . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Solder_Lap_Splicing/Solder_Lap_Splices.html
> If a mechanical connection before soldering is desirable I can envision
> several ways of doing it and have probably used them all on the
> occasional connector I've encountered in the past. This time I have a
> panel full of them and would like to make it as neat and tidy as
> possible. Is there a best or accepted method or does it not really matter
> in our applications? Thanks.
I would stick the stripped wire through the hole and
solder it without "hooking" the wire onto the terminal.
This is done for one good reason only . . . ease of
repair. When it comes time to replace a switch, heat the
joint and the wire comes right out . . . stripped, tinned
and ready for installation on the new switch. Of course the
finished joints will enjoy the benefits of one to two layers
of heat shrink . . . and this is true whether you make joints
that are easy to open later . . . or difficult.
Find some 63/37 solder. Just about anyone who bothers
to even offer such a finely tuned ratio will be a good
source.
http://www.action-electronics.com/kester.htm
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 20
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Subject: | Solder tab connectors |
At 07:12 PM 1/26/2007 -0500, you wrote:
><rdunhamtn@hotmail.com>
>
>Greg,
>
>Try this link...
>
>www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Jack_Tab_Soldering/Jack_Tab_Soldering.html
>
>Rod
Yeah, this one works too . . . just harder to replace. Leave some
service loop wire at the end . . . say 2" extra or so such that
a damaged or worn jack can be simply cut off and there's enough
slack to install a new jack.
Bob . . .
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Subject: | Ohm drop for welder's cable |
Thank you, Bob. I have #2. I have a Velocity I am wiring and decided to
follow your suggestion in Chapter 7 on using my long run of #2awg starter
(+) wire as my charge wire too. Thanks for that. I am figuring a 1.5 v drop
for 300 amps in a 2awg wire running about 30 feet. I am using a Skytec LS
starter. They told me to have 10v at the starter and I am using their
figures for the 300amps.
Regards,
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ohm drop for welder's cable
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 09:40 AM 1/26/2007 -0500, you wrote:
><terrence_miles@hotmail.com>
>
>
>Does anybody know the ohm drop per 1000 feet for welder's cable? Or
failing
>that number....is welders cable likely to have more (or have less) line
>resistance than Tefzel 2awg would have?
Assuming that the manufacturer of any kind of wire understands
the various standards for specifying the makeup and performance of
wire, then you're on solid ground to compare the resistance values
of anyone's 2AWG, 4AWG etc wire irrespective of type or intended use.
You used the phrase "welders cable" . . . know that it comes in
a variety of sizes including 0, 2, 4 and 6AWG. If you purchase
2AWG welding cable, it's a fair bet that the resistance is the
same as M22759 2AWG cable.
Bob . . .
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