Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:31 AM - Wiring a MAG Toggle Switch ()
2. 05:42 AM - Re: Sharing ship's COMM antenna with the hand-held (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 06:17 AM - Re: Handheld Radios (John and Kim Lumkes)
4. 06:22 AM - Re: Handheld Radios (Milton Bland)
5. 06:56 AM - Re: Handheld Radios (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 07:31 AM - Re: Wiring a MAG Toggle Switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 08:14 AM - Re: Handheld Radios (BobsV35B@aol.com)
8. 08:37 AM - I-Com Radio and Battery packs (BobsV35B@aol.com)
9. 08:57 AM - AUDIO ISOLATION AMP (Sam Marlow)
10. 09:16 AM - Re: I-Com Radio and Battery packs (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 09:25 AM - Re: I-Com Radio and Battery packs (Ralph E. Capen)
12. 09:26 AM - Re: intercom & headset kits (Ernest Christley)
13. 09:35 AM - Re: AUDIO ISOLATION AMP (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 09:35 AM - Re: AUDIO ISOLATION AMP (Carlos Trigo)
15. 09:45 AM - Re: I-Com Radio and Battery packs (Ernest Christley)
16. 09:48 AM - Re: I-Com Radio and Battery packs (George, Neal E Capt MIL USAF 605TES/TSI)
17. 10:08 AM - Re: AUDIO ISOLATION AMP (Dave N6030X)
18. 10:44 AM - Re: Wiring a MAG Toggle Switch ()
19. 11:10 AM - Re: Re: Wiring a MAG Toggle Switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 11:10 AM - Re: AUDIO ISOLATION AMP (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 11:32 AM - Re: Elegant solutions for storage of junque? (bob noffs)
22. 12:02 PM - Re: Re: Wiring a MAG Toggle Switch (Matt Prather)
23. 08:07 PM - Re: Sharing ship's COMM antenna with the hand-held (Richard E. Tasker)
24. 08:12 PM - Re: Elegant solutions for storage of junque? (BobsV35B@aol.com)
25. 08:45 PM - Re: Elegant solutions for storage of junque? (Speedy11@aol.com)
26. 10:13 PM - Re: I-Com Radio and Battery packs (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
27. 11:41 PM - Official AeroElectric-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) (Matt Dralle)
28. 11:42 PM - Official AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines (Matt Dralle)
29. 11:50 PM - Re: intercom & headset kits (Bob Verwey)
Message 1
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Subject: | Wiring a MAG Toggle Switch |
Bob,
I am using your Dual Alt & Dual Buss setup in my RV10 with one mag
(Left)and the lightspeed ignition system. I bought a switch from B&C
it's a on and off switch, (2 terminal).
I am confused on wiring the toggle switch.
Based on your the diagrams, I belive that I install the switch with the
keyway up and the wire runs between the switch (terminal 1) and MAG, the
shielding is attached to the other terminal (#2) on the switch and a
grounding screw on the MAG.
As I understand, the MAG live when the switch in open and it's dead when
the switch is to ground.
Please advise as I don't want the MAG live when I think it's dead.
Thanks....Mark Steffensen
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Sharing ship's COMM antenna with the hand-held |
At 09:56 PM 1/31/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>1/31/2007
>
>It will cost more and you won't have as much "roll your own satisfaction",
>but the IC-ANT-SB from ICOM is another way to skin this cat. See this web page.
>
>http://www.edmo.com/index.php?module=products&func=display&prod_id=19280&cat_id
>
>This has been mentioned previously on the list. Check with a local
>avionics shop to purchase or GOOGLE IC-ANT-SB for a catalog seller.
>
>OC -- The best investment we will ever make is in gathering knowledge.
You got that right! I'd forgotten about that product.
Thanks for reminding me.
I wish I knew more about how it works. I'm still a registered
dealer with Edmo from my Micorair adventure of several years
ago. That coupler is $60 dealer net. If anyone would like to
try it, enter an order on my website at:
http://aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AECcatalog.html
Put "ANTENNA SWITCHBOX (IC-ANT-SB)" in the comments box
at the bottom of the page. I'll get you one for costs.
Let's see what this little critter does and how well
it does it. Just the fact that it bears ICOM's label already
bodes well . . . assuming they're still the company I
knew 30 years ago as a supplier of exemplary ham radio
equipment.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Handheld Radios |
Thank you everyone for the excellent feedback! I am reconsidering the NAV
portion and may rethink a panel mount with dual frequency inputs if I think
that I might be in busier airspace. If I had to purchase right now I think
that I would stay with the plan to use a "mounted" handheld; there seems to
be many satisfied people with this arrangement. I was already planning for a
gps moving map and a handheld gps backup.
Have a great day,
John
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Handheld Radios |
About a year ago I decided to "install" a handheld com radio in my Ercoupe.
My decision was based on a friend who has dual Icom A3's in his Luscombe. I
found a good deal on a new Vertex 210 Pilot. It worked great on the ground
and ok in the air with the "rubber ducky" antenna. But range with that
antenna was limited to about 5 miles or so. It had a SMA antenna fitting so
I ordered an adapter and hooked up the old com antenna that was still on the
airplane. That's when the problems really began. Everything seemed good on
the ground but at about 150 feet in the air the radio would not break
squelch. Also I picked up interference from FM radio stations, loud but not
always clear. Basically the radio was useless in the air with the aircraft
antenna. I called Vertex and they told me the radio was not engineered for
use in an airplane! I asked them why their manual suggests otherwise and
they told me that was a marketing error! So much for customer support.
I now have an Icom A6 but I have not had an opportunity to try it in the
air. I am hoping it will work as well as the old A3's. I have noticed the
A3's seem to really hold their value on eBay. Maybe that is because they
work well as a primary light sport radio.
--
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Handheld Radios |
At 08:23 AM 2/1/2007 -0600, you wrote:
>About a year ago I decided to "install" a handheld com radio in my
>Ercoupe. My decision was based on a friend who has dual Icom A3's in his
>Luscombe. I found a good deal on a new Vertex 210 Pilot. It worked great
>on the ground and ok in the air with the "rubber ducky" antenna. But
>range with that antenna was limited to about 5 miles or so. It had a SMA
>antenna fitting so I ordered an adapter and hooked up the old com antenna
>that was still on the airplane. That's when the problems really
>began. Everything seemed good on the ground but at about 150 feet in the
>air the radio would not break squelch. Also I picked up interference from
>FM radio stations, loud but not always clear. Basically the radio was
>useless in the air with the aircraft antenna. I called Vertex and they
>told me the radio was not engineered for use in an airplane! I asked them
>why their manual suggests otherwise and they told me that was a marketing
>error! So much for customer support.
>
>I now have an Icom A6 but I have not had an opportunity to try it in the
>air. I am hoping it will work as well as the old A3's. I have noticed
>the A3's seem to really hold their value on eBay. Maybe that is because
>they work well as a primary light sport radio.
ICOM has, in my estimation, been at the top of
the mountain for technical excellence in radio
manufacturing. The problem you were experiencing
with FM stations on the other hand-held was due
to inadequate control of band-pass filtering -
keeping signals of no interest from getting
into the receiver's vulnerable "front end".
This is no mean task . . . especially in miniature
radios. The FM broadcast band is located just below
the aircraft band. The broadcast stations are on
tall towers with effective radiated powers in the
tens of kilowatts. Your stations of interest in
aviation are all on short towers with ERP's in the
tens of watts. So while the hand-held receiver is
working diligently to decode microvolt intelligence,
it has to contend with millivolt level antagonists
located right next door.
My experience with ICOM many years past is that they
are demonstrated masters at controlling front end
pass-band characteristics. I'll have to tell you guys
about a "hidden transmitter hunt" I participated in
about 25 years ago where only an ICOM receiver would
do the job. If anyone has more recent experience that
argues with this assessment, I'd be pleased to hear
about it.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Wiring a MAG Toggle Switch |
At 07:24 AM 2/1/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>I am using your Dual Alt & Dual Buss setup in my RV10 with one mag
>(Left)and the lightspeed ignition system. I bought a switch from B&C
>it's a on and off switch, (2 terminal).
>
>I am confused on wiring the toggle switch.
>
>Based on your the diagrams, I belive that I install the switch with the
>keyway up and the wire runs between the switch (terminal 1) and MAG, the
>shielding is attached to the other terminal (#2) on the switch and a
>grounding screw on the MAG.
>
>As I understand, the MAG live when the switch in open and it's dead when
>the switch is to ground.
>
>Please advise as I don't want the MAG live when I think it's dead.
Yes . . . to turn OFF a magneto, you CLOSE a switch to make
a connection that kills the mag.
So check your switch with an ohmmeter and orient it in
the panel such that it is CLOSED with the toggle in the
down position.
I didn't know B&C was selling any two-terminal switches.
When I sold them that part of my business, I carried only
the three-terminal, SPDT style switches so that ANY function
could be achieved irrespective of the keyway position. This
allowed a builder to install keyway lock washers all facing in
the same direction. In this case, you MIGHT find that the
switch you purchased will be "upside down" compared to other
switches on the panel.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Handheld Radios |
Good Morning John,
I don't have one, but I do believe the newest I-Com has a flip flop
frequency capability. My only recommendation would be to buy the double A battery
pack as well as the pack with a more modern battery that can be recharged from
ship's power. I think they still have that available.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
In a message dated 2/1/2007 8:19:57 A.M. Central Standard Time,
lumkes@msoe.edu writes:
Thank you everyone for the excellent feedback! I am reconsidering the NAV
portion and may rethink a panel mount with dual frequency inputs if I think
that I might be in busier airspace. If I had to purchase right now I think that
I would stay with the plan to use a "mounted" handheld; there seems to be
many satisfied people with this arrangement. I was already planning for a gps
moving map and a handheld gps backup.
Have a great day,
John
Message 8
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Subject: | I-Com Radio and Battery packs |
Good Morning All,
I checked the I-Com web site and found that they do offer the flip/flop
version. It is the IC-A6.
Now, a question for the group!
I-Com offers the following list of optional batteries.
* BP-208N BATTERY CASE
6 =D7 AA (LR6) alkaline cells.
* BP-209N BATTERY PACK
Ni-Cd: 7.2V/1100mAh
* BP-210N BATTERY PACK
Ni-MH: 7.2V/1650mAh
* BP-211N BATTERY PACK
Li-Ion: 7.4V/1800mAh
The case that has the capability of using six alkaline's is like one of the
cases I have for my older I-Com. I am not sure which of the other three I
have for the "permanent" battery case. Can anyone tell me what the advantag
es
and disadvantages are of the other battery styles?
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
Message 9
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Subject: | AUDIO ISOLATION AMP |
I'm looking to install an audio Isolation amp in my RV10, does anyone
have a source?
Thanks,
Sam Marlow
RV10 Wiring
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: I-Com Radio and Battery packs |
At 11:36 AM 2/1/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>Good Morning All,
>
>I checked the I-Com web site and found that they do offer the flip/flop
>version. It is the IC-A6.
>
>Now, a question for the group!
>
>I-Com offers the following list of optional batteries.
>
> * BP-208N BATTERY CASE
> * 6 AA (LR6) alkaline cells.
> * BP-209N BATTERY PACK
> * Ni-Cd: 7.2V/1100mAh
> * BP-210N BATTERY PACK
> * Ni-MH: 7.2V/1650mAh
> * BP-211N BATTERY PACK
> * Li-Ion: 7.4V/1800mAh
>The case that has the capability of using six alkaline's is like one of
>the cases I have for my older I-Com. I am not sure which of the other
>three I have for the "permanent" battery case. Can anyone tell me what the
>advantages and disadvantages are of the other battery styles?
Depends on your goals. When I did the article at:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/AA_Bat_Test.pdf
I was exploring the economics of AA-alkaline cells
in various operating scenarios and brands of cells.
Since I did that article, one may no purchase Ni-Mh
cells with energy content in the ballpark with
alkaline cells . . . 2200 mAh +
The loose-cell battery pack offers some attractive
features. (1) you can "renew" the cells from a variety
of technologies and local sources. (2) you can choose
to throw-away alkaline cells or recharge Ni-Mh cells.
(3) the loose cell pack contains more energy for radio
operation than any of the proprietary packs offered.
Based on these features, I'll always go for the loose-
cell pack when ever they're available.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: I-Com Radio and Battery packs |
My understanding and part experience.....
The NiCd battery pack can develop a memory based on partial discharge state.
The 1800mAh pack will last longer and will take longer to charge.
For my handheld, I have the largest mAh pack available and one of the packs that
allows the use of alkaline batteries.
Ralph Capen
-----Original Message-----
>From: BobsV35B@aol.com
>Sent: Feb 1, 2007 11:36 AM
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: I-Com Radio and Battery packs
>
>Good Morning All,
>
>I checked the I-Com web site and found that they do offer the flip/flop
>version. It is the IC-A6.
>
>Now, a question for the group!
>
>I-Com offers the following list of optional batteries.
>
> * BP-208N BATTERY CASE
>6 AA (LR6) alkaline cells.
> * BP-209N BATTERY PACK
>Ni-Cd: 7.2V/1100mAh
> * BP-210N BATTERY PACK
>Ni-MH: 7.2V/1650mAh
> * BP-211N BATTERY PACK
>Li-Ion: 7.4V/1800mAh
>The case that has the capability of using six alkaline's is like one of the
>cases I have for my older I-Com. I am not sure which of the other three I
>have for the "permanent" battery case. Can anyone tell me what the advantages
>and disadvantages are of the other battery styles?
>
>Happy Skies,
>
>Old Bob
>AKA
>Bob Siegfried
>Ancient Aviator
>Stearman N3977A
>Brookeridge Air Park LL22
>Downers Grove, IL 60516
>630 985-8503
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: intercom & headset kits |
Ron Shannon wrote:
>
>I am building the RST Engineering audio panel/intercom now. The kit is
>well organized and perhaps more important, the documentation is super.
>
>Ron
>
>
>
I'd like to emphasize what Ron said. If you read the manuals carefully
as you build it, you'll finish with not only an intercom, but knowledge
of exactly how it works. I built one last spring. I had some problems
with incorrect parts, but Jim dealt with them personally. No company is
perfect. It's how they deal with problems that seperate the sheep from
the goats. I don't think you're going to find a better company to work
with than RST. If you place any value on knowing how things work, or
any pride in being able to say, "I built that", I don't think you will
find any better value than RST's kits.
>paul wilson wrote:
>
>
>>
>>I am interested in any evaluation of the Jim Wier kits. www.rst-engr.com. Has anybody used them?
>>
--
,|"|"|, Ernest Christley |
----===<{{(oQo)}}>===---- Dyke Delta Builder |
o| d |o http://ernest.isa-geek.org |
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: AUDIO ISOLATION AMP |
At 11:55 AM 2/1/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>I'm looking to install an audio Isolation amp in my RV10, does anyone have
>a source?
>Thanks,
>Sam Marlow
>RV10 Wiring
You can build one. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/DIY/Audio_Isolation_Amplifier.pdf
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: AUDIO ISOLATION AMP |
Please forgive my technical English question but, what is exactly an "AUDIO
ISOLATION AMP" ?
Carlos
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Marlow" <sam@fr8dog.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 4:55 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: AUDIO ISOLATION AMP
>
> I'm looking to install an audio Isolation amp in my RV10, does anyone have
> a source?
> Thanks,
> Sam Marlow
> RV10 Wiring
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: I-Com Radio and Battery packs |
BobsV35B@aol.com wrote:
> Good Morning All,
>
> I checked the I-Com web site and found that they do offer the
> flip/flop version. It is the IC-A6.
>
> Now, a question for the group!
>
> I-Com offers the following list of optional batteries.
>
>
> * *BP-208N* BATTERY CASE
> 6 AA (LR6) alkaline cells.
> * *BP-209N* BATTERY PACK
> Ni-Cd: 7.2V/1100mAh
> * *BP-210N* BATTERY PACK
> Ni-MH: 7.2V/1650mAh
> * *BP-211N* BATTERY PACK
> Li-Ion: 7.4V/1800mAh
>
> The case that has the capability of using six alkaline's is like one
> of the cases I have for my older I-Com. I am not sure which of the
> other three I have for the "permanent" battery case. Can anyone tell
> me what the advantages and disadvantages are of the other battery styles?
>
The first is the mAh ratings. The higher the number, the longer you can
expect the battery to last. It will have more juice in it.
The second is the type of battery. Alkaline cells have a long shelf
life. Ni-Cd are rechargeable, but tend to leak down fairly fast. Ni-MH
and Li-Ion, not so much.
The other big differientator is cost.
If you only plan to use the unit in case of emergency, go for the
alkaline. If you're strapped for cash, go for the Ni-Cd, but be aware
that you will be replacing them in two years or so. If you want to use
it as a daily unit, spring for the Li-Ion.
--
,|"|"|, Ernest Christley |
----===<{{(oQo)}}>===---- Dyke Delta Builder |
o| d |o http://ernest.isa-geek.org |
Message 16
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Subject: | I-Com Radio and Battery packs |
Bob -
Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cd) is the oldest of the three rechargeable technologies. It
offers reasonable energy density, lower cost. It is capable of supplying higher
currents (energy delivery) that the other chemistries (not an issue in HT
radios). It's rather sensitive to overcharging /overheating, and has the highest
leakage or idle-discharge rate (about 10% per month just sitting on the shelf).
Nickel Metal Hydride is a newer technology, offers higher energy density than NiCd
and (if memory serves) is more tolerant of over-charging. It's leakage rate
is lower than Ni-Cd. Lower energy delivery capabilities than Ni-Cd (again,
not an issue with handhelds). Costs more than Ni-Cd.
Lithium-Ion is the newer of the three chemistries, offers the highest energy density,
and the highest cost. I believe it has the lowest idle-discharge rate
of the three.
An example - My cordless drill came with NiCd batteries and a charger placarded
as compatible with either NiCd or NiMh. NiCd batteries are probably best for
folks who would use the drill a lot every day, but I may go weeks between small
projects that entail 5 or 6 screws. The original batteries lasted less than
a year, and were often all but dead when I needed it for the occasional household
project. I rebuilt the battery packs with NiMh cells from AllBattery.com
four years ago and it still performs very well. It won't deliver the torque
that it did with the NiCd batteries, but it has a much better shelf-life.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (wiring - again)
Navarre, FL
I-Com offers the following list of optional batteries.
* BP-208N BATTERY CASE
6 AA (LR6) alkaline cells.
* BP-209N BATTERY PACK
Ni-Cd: 7.2V/1100mAh
* BP-210N BATTERY PACK
Ni-MH: 7.2V/1650mAh
* BP-211N BATTERY PACK
Li-Ion: 7.4V/1800mAh
The case that has the capability of using six alkaline's is like one of the cases
I have for my older I-Com. I am not sure which of the other three I have for
the "permanent" battery case. Can anyone tell me what the advantages and disadvantages
are of the other battery styles?
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: AUDIO ISOLATION AMP |
Man, was that a nice setup, or what.
At 11:34 AM 2/1/2007, you wrote:
><nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
>At 11:55 AM 2/1/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>
>>I'm looking to install an audio Isolation amp in my RV10, does
>>anyone have a source?
>>Thanks,
>>Sam Marlow
>>RV10 Wiring
>
>
> You can build one. See:
>
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/DIY/Audio_Isolation_Amplifier.pdf
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------
> ( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
> ( what ever you do must be exercised )
> ( EVERY day . . . )
> ( R. L. Nuckolls III )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
Message 18
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Subject: | RE: Wiring a MAG Toggle Switch |
Bob,
Do I need to take one of the terminals of the switch to a firewall
ground so that when the switch in open the MAG is grounded and when the
switch is closed the MAG is not grounded or does the switch have this
function without taking a terminal to a grounding point?
Subject: Re: Wiring a MAG Toggle Switch
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III (nuckollsr@cox.net)
At 07:24 AM 2/1/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>I am using your Dual Alt & Dual Buss setup in my RV10 with one mag
>(Left)and the lightspeed ignition system. I bought a switch from B&C
>it's a on and off switch, (2 terminal).
>
>I am confused on wiring the toggle switch.
>
>Based on your the diagrams, I belive that I install the switch with the
>keyway up and the wire runs between the switch (terminal 1) and MAG,
the
>shielding is attached to the other terminal (#2) on the switch and a
>grounding screw on the MAG.
>
>As I understand, the MAG live when the switch in open and it's dead
when
>the switch is to ground.
>
>Please advise as I don't want the MAG live when I think it's dead.
Yes . . . to turn OFF a magneto, you CLOSE a switch to make
a connection that kills the mag.
So check your switch with an ohmmeter and orient it in
the panel such that it is CLOSED with the toggle in the
down position.
I didn't know B&C was selling any two-terminal switches.
When I sold them that part of my business, I carried only
the three-terminal, SPDT style switches so that ANY function
could be achieved irrespective of the keyway position. This
allowed a builder to install keyway lock washers all facing in
the same direction. In this case, you MIGHT find that the
switch you purchased will be "upside down" compared to other
switches on the panel.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
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Subject: | Re: RE: Wiring a MAG Toggle Switch |
At 01:42 PM 2/1/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>Do I need to take one of the terminals of the switch to a firewall
>ground so that when the switch in open the MAG is grounded and when the
>switch is closed the MAG is not grounded or does the switch have this
>function without taking a terminal to a grounding point?
You wire it per the diagrams where p-lead shields are
grounded to the mag or engine under the cowl. The switch
USES the shield to provide a ground at the panel. The diagram
is explicit as to how shields are handled and grounds supplied.
Bob . . .
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: AUDIO ISOLATION AMP |
At 05:31 PM 2/1/2007 +0000, you wrote:
><trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
>
>Please forgive my technical English question but, what is exactly an
>"AUDIO ISOLATION AMP" ?
>
>Carlos
See:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev11/18Audio_R11.pdf
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: Elegant solutions for storage of junque? |
hi all,
an easy, quick, and fairly cheap way to build shelving goes like this;
both ends of plywood shelves are supported by a ''ladder like'' thing you
can build out of 2x4's. one of these ladders must be firmly anchored to a
wall or something. the other ladder should at least be anchored top or
bottom. now put in your shelves , lying on the ''rungs'' of the ladders. the
shelves are about as stiff as wet noodles like this. here's the time and
money saver; cut pieces of 2x4 or even 2x2 the length of the distance
between shelves. start on the floor and slip the pieces of 2x4 between the
shelves going up and keeping each piece over the one below it. as many as
needed to keep your shelves stiff. this is by far the most brainlessly easy
way to make strong shelves. i have rows of them in the storage end of my
basement. bob noffs
----- Original M essage -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 10:59 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Elegant solutions for storage of junque?
> <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
> At 10:34 AM 1/31/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>Hey Dave,
>>
>>Perhaps you were not aware, but the real name of this list is the
>>"Scavengers Anonymous Society". The rest of us really appreciate you
>>finally coming out of the closet {:>) - we had long suspected, but
>>'fessing up is good for you. Actually, I'm a little envious of your
>>location - but, then on the other hand, I really don't have any spare room
>>in my work shop and sheds - so its just as well.
>
>
> I've often suggested to my managers that resume's are way
> down on the list of useful things to see when considering
> a prospective new hire. I've always advised, "Go look at
> their workshop."
>
> Here are couple of shots of my downstairs shop. Got
> another "hammer-n-tongs" shop in the garage. Right
> next to the downstairs shop is the office with all
> the computers, printers, copy machine, and closet
> that houses the telephone and CAT5 networking hardware.
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/Shop.jpg
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/Shop_2.jpg
>
> The second photo illustrates and experiment that I'm
> going to refine this summer. The shelves are low cost
> products from Sam's. The bins are plastic "shoe boxes"
> available about everywhere for about $1. I can't build
> a robust drawer/bin for a buck.
>
> The arrangement you see in the picture is not space
> efficient but it validated the idea. This summer, I'm
> going to have a grandson join me for a few days of
> making piles of sawdust (table saw is in upstairs shop)
> to build shelves specifically fitted to the shoe-box
> bins. My trusty AutoCAD drawing tells me that we'll
> fit 190 bins into the wall space presently occupied
> by the storage in the photo. I'll publish a picture
> of the finished project.
>
> If this works as planned, it will be repeated at
> work if and when I get the IR&D facility project launched.
> Does anyone else have examples of storage management
> solutions for that valuable junque?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: RE: Wiring a MAG Toggle Switch |
No 'grounding' of the mag system is required. Closing the mag switch
causes one end of the p-lead winding to be connected to the other end of
the p-lead winding (in a slightly roundabout way) which disables the
magneto from sparking.. From the standpoint of wiring the switch, it's
only a bit of a coincidence that one end of the p-lead winding is also
connected to the magneto body which is bolted to the engine case which on
most airplanes is known as 'ground'..
So, the closed switch should connect the p-lead (the 'free end' of the
'primary' winding) to the body of the magneto. No additional connections
required. And, this method of wiring offers the lowest risk of p-lead
noise to other electronics in the airplane..
Regards,
Matt-
>
> Bob,
>
> Do I need to take one of the terminals of the switch to a firewall
> ground so that when the switch in open the MAG is grounded and when the
> switch is closed the MAG is not grounded or does the switch have this
> function without taking a terminal to a grounding point?
>
>
> Subject: Re: Wiring a MAG Toggle Switch
> From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III (nuckollsr@cox.net)
> Date: Thu Feb 01 - 7:31 AM
>
> At 07:24 AM 2/1/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>
>>Bob,
>>
>>I am using your Dual Alt & Dual Buss setup in my RV10 with one mag
>>(Left)and the lightspeed ignition system. I bought a switch from B&C
>>it's a on and off switch, (2 terminal).
>>
>>I am confused on wiring the toggle switch.
>>
>>Based on your the diagrams, I belive that I install the switch with the
>>keyway up and the wire runs between the switch (terminal 1) and MAG,
> the
>>shielding is attached to the other terminal (#2) on the switch and a
>>grounding screw on the MAG.
>>
>>As I understand, the MAG live when the switch in open and it's dead
> when
>>the switch is to ground.
>>
>>Please advise as I don't want the MAG live when I think it's dead.
>
> Yes . . . to turn OFF a magneto, you CLOSE a switch to make
> a connection that kills the mag.
>
> So check your switch with an ohmmeter and orient it in
> the panel such that it is CLOSED with the toggle in the
> down position.
>
> I didn't know B&C was selling any two-terminal switches.
> When I sold them that part of my business, I carried only
> the three-terminal, SPDT style switches so that ANY function
> could be achieved irrespective of the keyway position. This
> allowed a builder to install keyway lock washers all facing in
> the same direction. In this case, you MIGHT find that the
> switch you purchased will be "upside down" compared to other
> switches on the panel.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------
> ( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
> ( what ever you do must be exercised )
> ( EVERY day . . . )
> ( R. L. Nuckolls III )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: Sharing ship's COMM antenna with the hand-held |
Bob, Now you are confusing us! In one email you say that this method of switching
from the internal radio to the handheld is not so good and you are going to
take it off your web site and the next email you are saying that the one ICOM
has their name on seems a viable option and offer to sell it to anyone who wants
one. What gives??? This product does exactly what the one on your web site
does!
Confused...
Dick Tasker
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
> At 09:56 PM 1/31/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>
>> 1/31/2007
>>
>> It will cost more and you won't have as much "roll your own
>> satisfaction", but the IC-ANT-SB from ICOM is another way to skin
>> this cat. See this web page.
>>
>> http://www.edmo.com/index.php?module=products&func=display&prod_id=19280&cat_id=
>>
>>
>> This has been mentioned previously on the list. Check with a local
>> avionics shop to purchase or GOOGLE IC-ANT-SB for a catalog seller.
>>
>> OC -- The best investment we will ever make is in gathering knowledge.
>
>
> You got that right! I'd forgotten about that product.
> Thanks for reminding me.
>
> I wish I knew more about how it works. I'm still a registered
> dealer with Edmo from my Micorair adventure of several years
> ago. That coupler is $60 dealer net. If anyone would like to
> try it, enter an order on my website at:
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AECcatalog.html
>
> Put "ANTENNA SWITCHBOX (IC-ANT-SB)" in the comments box
> at the bottom of the page. I'll get you one for costs.
> Let's see what this little critter does and how well
> it does it. Just the fact that it bears ICOM's label already
> bodes well . . . assuming they're still the company I
> knew 30 years ago as a supplier of exemplary ham radio
> equipment.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
--
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Subject: | Re: Elegant solutions for storage of junque? |
In a message dated 2/1/2007 1:37:00 P.M. Central Standard Time,
icubob@newnorth.net writes:
start on the floor and slip the pieces of 2x4 between the
shelves going up and keeping each piece over the one below it. as many as
needed to keep your shelves stiff. this is by far the most brainlessly easy
way to make strong shelves. I have rows of them in the storage end of my
basement. bob noffs
Good Evening Bob,
Any dimensions on the thickness of the plywood, quality used and placement
of the braces?
Any photos available?
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
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Subject: | Re: Elegant solutions for storage of junque? |
Does anyone else have examples of storage management
solutions for that valuable junque?
Bob,
I built storage space above the garage doors that has proven to be useful. I
planned it around 4x8 sheets of plywood and it is very sturdy. As my storage
needs diminish, my wife is making good use of the shelves. Photos are at the
bottom of this page http://www.rv-8a.net/thebeginning.htm. I have a broken
link on the large photos, so if anyone wants more detailed photos, contact me
off the list.
Stan Sutterfield
Do not archive
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Subject: | Re: I-Com Radio and Battery packs |
A follow-up on rechargeable, specifically Ni-Cad cells.
I dug through some materials I've captured off the 'net written
by "Mr. Battery" hisself, Isador Buchmann. Here's an excerpt
from his book on batteries.
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Ni-Cd_Memory.pdf
Do a Google search on this guy . . . he's done a lot of good
work and is graciously willing to share. I spent some time
talking with him on the phone several years ago. During
that conversation he told me that any of his work found in
the wild on the 'net could be passed on to you folks.
Bob . . .
Message 27
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Subject: | Official AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines |
Dear Listers,
Please read over the AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
AeroElectric-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/AeroElectric-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
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AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines
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The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the AeroElectric-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the AeroElectric-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
AeroElectric-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the AeroElectric-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
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will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occassional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularyly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
do not archive
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|
Subject: | intercom & headset kits |
Paul,
I'm particularly interested in the functionality of the 4 place intercom and
the squelch settings. What has been your experience with this aspect?
Bob Verwey
A35 Bonanza
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernest
Christley
Sent: 01 Feb 2007 07:25 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: intercom & headset kits
--> <echristley@nc.rr.com>
Ron Shannon wrote:
>--> <rshannon@cruzcom.com>
>
>I am building the RST Engineering audio panel/intercom now. The kit is
>well organized and perhaps more important, the documentation is super.
>
>Ron
>
>
>
I'd like to emphasize what Ron said. If you read the manuals carefully as
you build it, you'll finish with not only an intercom, but knowledge of
exactly how it works. I built one last spring. I had some problems with
incorrect parts, but Jim dealt with them personally. No company is perfect.
It's how they deal with problems that seperate the sheep from the goats. I
don't think you're going to find a better company to work with than RST. If
you place any value on knowing how things work, or any pride in being able
to say, "I built that", I don't think you will find any better value than
RST's kits.
>paul wilson wrote:
>
>
>>--> <pwmac@sisna.com>
>>
>>I am interested in any evaluation of the Jim Wier kits. www.rst-engr.com.
Has anybody used them?
>>
--
,|"|"|, Ernest Christley |
----===<{{(oQo)}}>===---- Dyke Delta Builder |
o| d |o http://ernest.isa-geek.org |
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