Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:41 AM - Antenna Polarity?? (Bill Bradburry)
2. 07:04 AM - Re: Antenna Polarity?? (Dave N6030X)
3. 08:49 AM - Re: Re: Using D-Sub extract tool (Larry L. Tompkins, P.E.)
4. 09:47 AM - Sorry!! (lee.logan@gulfstream.com)
5. 10:21 AM - Substituting fastons for connectors? (Dr. Andrew Elliott)
6. 11:05 AM - Rotax 582 Start Current (Guy Buchanan)
7. 11:29 AM - Re: Rotax 582 Start Current (Bill Denton)
8. 11:34 AM - Re: Rotax 582 Start Current (Dave N6030X)
9. 12:26 PM - (no subject) (TSaccio@aol.com)
10. 01:04 PM - Antennas (TSaccio@aol.com)
11. 01:19 PM - Re: Rotax 582 Start Current (Gilles Thesee)
12. 01:48 PM - Re: (no subject) (Matt Prather)
13. 06:38 PM - ELT Antenna (Jerry Isler)
Message 1
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Subject: | Antenna Polarity?? |
OK, here is an update...
This plane is a Lancair Legacy, so I got in touch with the Lancair
avionics department. They were able to help me to the point where I was
able to determine which on the two screws should be attached to the
center conductor and which to the shield. So, initial polarization
question/problem solved.
However,...
I noticed in their parts catalog that this antenna is designed (as Bob
remarked) for install in a metal aircraft (Vans RV ??)
However,...
This antenna was glassed in by the Lancair factory when the wing parts
were built, so it was provided by Lancair???? DUH! WHY??
The avionics guy I talked with assured me that the antenna works fine in
the Legacy....
I assume that if I can figure out some way to get the SWR checked on the
antenna and if the SWR is below 2.0, it will work ok??
Thanks for the assistance.
Bill B
Time: 04:28:27 PM PST US
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Antenna Polarity??
At 06:33 PM 2/6/2007 -0500, you wrote:
> ><bbradburry@allvantage.com>
> >
> >Hmmm...I don't think that I made myself clear. This antenna is
glassed in
> >the end of the fiberglas wing. It is not connected to anything.
From the
> >antenna's perspective, it is floating in space. I am attempting to
attach
> >the coax to the antenna. All I have available are the two screws
sticking
> >up to attach the coax. Is there any way that I can determine which
of the
> >two screws should have the center conductor and which should have
the shield?
Hmmmm . . . that antenna was designed to work against
metalic structure of a metal wing for "ground". Is there
even a metal sheet over the tip closeout rib? If there's
no metal used to provide the other "half" of the antenna,
then you're going to realize only a small fraction of
the antenna's already compromised performance by tucking
it under a tip fairing?
How did this particular antenna find its way onto the
airplane? It was originally designed for RVs and could
probably be adapted to other metal wing aircraft with
plastic tip fairings.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Antenna Polarity?? |
I just read something by Bob Archer that said he sold more of his
wingtip antennas to Lancair owners than to any other airplane. The
document is undated (a horrible problem with most Internet documents)
and is here: http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/tvrvbg/Tip6a.doc
Dave Morris
At 07:43 AM 2/8/2007, you wrote:
><bbradburry@allvantage.com>
>
>OK, here is an update...
>This plane is a Lancair Legacy, so I got in touch with the Lancair
>avionics department. They were able to help me to the point where I
>was able to determine which on the two screws should be attached to
>the center conductor and which to the shield. So, initial
>polarization question/problem solved.
>However,...
>I noticed in their parts catalog that this antenna is designed (as
>Bob remarked) for install in a metal aircraft (Vans RV ??)
>However,...
>This antenna was glassed in by the Lancair factory when the wing
>parts were built, so it was provided by Lancair???? DUH! WHY??
>The avionics guy I talked with assured me that the antenna works
>fine in the Legacy....
>I assume that if I can figure out some way to get the SWR checked on
>the antenna and if the SWR is below 2.0, it will work ok??
>
>Thanks for the assistance.
>
>Bill B
>
>
>Time: 04:28:27 PM PST US
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Antenna Polarity??
>
>
>At 06:33 PM 2/6/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
> > ><bbradburry@allvantage.com>
> > >
> > >Hmmm...I don't think that I made myself clear. This antenna is glassed in
> > >the end of the fiberglas wing. It is not connected to anything. From the
> > >antenna's perspective, it is floating in space. I am attempting to attach
> > >the coax to the antenna. All I have available are the two screws sticking
> > >up to attach the coax. Is there any way that I can determine which of the
> > >two screws should have the center conductor and which should
> have the shield?
>
> Hmmmm . . . that antenna was designed to work against
> metalic structure of a metal wing for "ground". Is there
> even a metal sheet over the tip closeout rib? If there's
> no metal used to provide the other "half" of the antenna,
> then you're going to realize only a small fraction of
> the antenna's already compromised performance by tucking
> it under a tip fairing?
>
> How did this particular antenna find its way onto the
> airplane? It was originally designed for RVs and could
> probably be adapted to other metal wing aircraft with
> plastic tip fairings.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Using D-Sub extract tool |
"Ignorance can be fixed, stupid is forever." I don't remember the
author.
Larry
Message 4
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Sorry, I keep forgetting about no pix on the Matronics list. I'm on too
many lists!!
Email me offline and I'll send them to anyone who wants a look...
Lee...
Lee Logan
Government Programs and Sales Support
Gulfstream Aerospace Corporation
Savannah, Georgia
This e-mail message, including all attachments, is for the sole use of the
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received this message in error, please contact the sender by reply e-mail
and destroy all copies of the original message.
Message 5
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Subject: | Substituting fastons for connectors? |
Folks:
I have an ARC 459 transponder which uses a backplane connector which is
no apparently longer made, and for which sockets are only available
through a few sources at high cost. It appears to me that the .110 x
.020 size faston receptacles would fit quite nicely on the existing
pins. I would like to wire a DB-25 connector to the transponder using
such fastons to make wiring it into rest of the plane a snap.
Anyone ever tried this before? If acceptable, the faston approach
should also work nicely for the 359 and thereby open up a good source of
inexpensive used transponders.
(I previously had a response suggesting that I wire the d-subconnector
directly to the transponder circuit board. This seems less desirable to
me.)
Thanks,
Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
N601GE (reserved)
601XL/TD/QB, Corvair, building...
Message 6
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Subject: | Rotax 582 Start Current |
The short question is: What is the approximate start current for a Rotax 582?
Why do I ask? Because today I fried the shunt on my 30A ammeter. This
shunt operates in line between the battery and starter.
I've noticed lately that starting has been slower and I attributed it
to lower battery capacity. Today I checked the voltage at 13.1V, then
tried starting. I got three very slow turn-overs followed by a click,
then nothing. It turns out the click was the shunt separating. I've
got probably 100 starts on this system over the last year. I did a
resistance check of the starter across the "big" wires and got only
0.3 ohms. Is it possible the starter is shorted? How can I tell if
the starter is bad? Do I dare simply attach the battery to the
starter directly to see if it works? I could also simply by-pass the
shunt to see if it works, then I could use the start switch. I'm
concerned, however, that if the starter is shorted I could blow the
battery. Is that a possibility?
Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 7
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Subject: | Rotax 582 Start Current |
>From what I have read, you shouldn't run starter current through the shunt.
If you want to measure current going into and out of the battery, the shunt
should be installed between the battery and the alternator.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Guy
Buchanan
Sent: Thursday, February 8, 2007 1:04 PM
rotaxengines-list@matronics.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Rotax 582 Start Current
The short question is: What is the approximate start current for a Rotax
582?
Why do I ask? Because today I fried the shunt on my 30A ammeter. This
shunt operates in line between the battery and starter.
I've noticed lately that starting has been slower and I attributed it
to lower battery capacity. Today I checked the voltage at 13.1V, then
tried starting. I got three very slow turn-overs followed by a click,
then nothing. It turns out the click was the shunt separating. I've
got probably 100 starts on this system over the last year. I did a
resistance check of the starter across the "big" wires and got only
0.3 ohms. Is it possible the starter is shorted? How can I tell if
the starter is bad? Do I dare simply attach the battery to the
starter directly to see if it works? I could also simply by-pass the
shunt to see if it works, then I could use the start switch. I'm
concerned, however, that if the starter is shorted I could blow the
battery. Is that a possibility?
Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 Start Current |
1. The shunt shouldn't be between the battery and starter. That will
fry the shunt for sure. You're talking hundreds of amps on the
starter. I'm surprised the shunt lasted this long. Did your ammeter
always get pegged when you cranked the starter? The shunt should be
either between the battery and the bus if you want to monitor your
loads in an alternator-out situation, or the alternator and bus if
you want to monitor the loads during normal operation.
2. The 0.3 ohms in the starter is probably correct or even high,
because the starter draws a LOT of current. Amps = Voltage / Resistance.
Dave Morris
At 01:04 PM 2/8/2007, you wrote:
>
>The short question is: What is the approximate start current for a Rotax 582?
>
>Why do I ask? Because today I fried the shunt on my 30A ammeter.
>This shunt operates in line between the battery and starter.
>
>I've noticed lately that starting has been slower and I attributed
>it to lower battery capacity. Today I checked the voltage at 13.1V,
>then tried starting. I got three very slow turn-overs followed by a
>click, then nothing. It turns out the click was the shunt
>separating. I've got probably 100 starts on this system over the
>last year. I did a resistance check of the starter across the "big"
>wires and got only 0.3 ohms. Is it possible the starter is shorted?
>How can I tell if the starter is bad? Do I dare simply attach the
>battery to the starter directly to see if it works? I could also
>simply by-pass the shunt to see if it works, then I could use the
>start switch. I'm concerned, however, that if the starter is shorted
>I could blow the battery. Is that a possibility?
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Guy Buchanan
>K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
>
Message 9
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My names Tom Saccio and I have a question about antennas. When my panel was
built the Avionics shop ran RG 400 cable from the instrument panel. All of the
antennas that I installed are RG 58. The leads coming from the panel are
only about 3' long. My question is do I run the RG 58 to the panel and connect
to the short RG 400 or can I add on to the RG 400 and connect them to the RG
58 in the rear of the plane as I would like to do. The RG 58 that I hooked up
is long enough to reach the panel without additional connectors. Any
responses to this question would be greatly appreciated. The plane that this is
going in is a Seawind.
Thank you,
Tom Saccio
_tsaccio@aol.com_ (mailto:tsaccio@aol.com)
Message 10
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My names Tom Saccio and I have a question about antennas. When my panel was
built the Avionics shop ran RG 400 cable from the instrument panel. All of the
antennas that I installed are RG 58. The leads coming from the panel are
only about 3' long. My question is do I run the RG 58 to the panel and connect
to the short RG 400 or can I add on to the RG 400 and connect them to the RG
58 in the rear of the plane as I would like to do. The RG 58 that I hooked up
is long enough to reach the panel without additional connectors. Any
responses to this question would be greatly appreciated. The plane that this is
going in is a Seawind.
Thank you,
Tom Saccio
_tsaccio@aol.com_ (mailto:tsaccio@aol.com)
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 Start Current |
Dave N6030X a crit :
> 2. The 0.3 ohms in the starter is probably correct or even high,
> because the starter draws a LOT of current. Amps = Voltage / Resistance.
>
FWIW, a buddy measured a 110 amp starting current, with a peak at 130
amps on his Rotax 912S.
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
RG58 and RG400 can be used interchangeably in this application. RG400 is
slightly lower loss (more efficient) at higher frequency, and has better
thermal characteristics (only important when running it through the engine
compartment). If you already have enough RG58 to reach the panel, use
that. You can either remove the existing RG400 pieces or add couplings
to connect the RG58 to the RG400. The workmanship used in installing the
connectors is more important than having RG400 vs. RG58.
Regards,
Matt-
> My names Tom Saccio and I have a question about antennas. When my panel
> was
> built the Avionics shop ran RG 400 cable from the instrument panel. All of
> the
> antennas that I installed are RG 58. The leads coming from the panel are
> only about 3' long. My question is do I run the RG 58 to the panel and
> connect
> to the short RG 400 or can I add on to the RG 400 and connect them to
> the RG
> 58 in the rear of the plane as I would like to do. The RG 58 that I
> hooked up
> is long enough to reach the panel without additional connectors. Any
> responses to this question would be greatly appreciated. The plane that
> this is
> going in is a Seawind.
>
> Thank you,
> Tom Saccio
> _tsaccio@aol.com_ (mailto:tsaccio@aol.com)
>
Message 13
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What is your current opinion of where the ELT antenna should be installed on
an RV-4? My ACK ELT is mounted on the upper shelf of the baggage
compartment. I am leaning toward mounting the antenna on the topside of the
turtle deck right behind the canopy. If you have a snappy location that is
better concealed I would like to know. The airplane is finished and this is
one of the small details I have left to complete.
Also, what does the large molded rubber base do on the ELT antenna? Is it a
strain relief to keep the antenna from snapping off in the breeze at 200+
MPH? Does it cover something up like a coil or what ever? I want to be able
to trim this rubber off so I can possibly mount the antenna inside the
cabin. However I do not want to destroy the antenna by sawing off something
important.
Jerry Isler
Donalsonville, GA
RV4 N455J
Cessna C140A N9641A
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