AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Wed 02/28/07


Total Messages Posted: 23



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:49 AM - Re: Hi-V/Lo-V Monitor (Rodney Dunham)
     2. 05:41 AM - Re: BMA Power Board? (Mark Banus)
     3. 07:17 AM - Test (Bruce Bell)
     4. 07:54 AM - Re: Hi-V/Lo-V Monitor (Dave N6030X)
     5. 09:46 AM - Baluns and contactors . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     6. 10:06 AM - Re: Full Auto (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     7. 10:42 AM - Re: 2 Grounds (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     8. 10:44 AM - Re: Larger fuse link (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     9. 10:52 AM - Re: Bob, Can you put Commtap back up? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    10. 10:58 AM - Re: Hi-V/Lo-V Monitor (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    11. 10:59 AM - Re: Re: BMA Power Board? (Dave N6030X)
    12. 11:36 AM - Re: Re: BMA Power Board? (Eric Parlow)
    13. 11:42 AM - Details of BMA Power Board (Eric Parlow)
    14. 11:44 AM - Garmin 430W manual (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
    15. 12:31 PM - Re: Garmin 430W manual (Bill Denton)
    16. 12:40 PM - Fw: Pulse width modulation on linear actuators (Bill and Marsha)
    17. 02:16 PM - Re: BMA Power Board? (h&jeuropa)
    18. 02:20 PM - Re: Fw: Pulse width modulation on linear actuators (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    19. 03:50 PM - Re: Garmin 430W manual (Kevin Horton)
    20. 05:31 PM - Van's Ammeter (Richard Dudley)
    21. 06:02 PM - Re: 2 Grounds (Larry Rosen)
    22. 06:15 PM - Re: Van's Ammeter (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    23. 07:21 PM - 2 1/4 inch transponder (B Tomm)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:49:33 AM PST US
    From: "Rodney Dunham" <rdunhamtn@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Hi-V/Lo-V Monitor
    David, Don't know if it's the same, but B&C Specialty sells one for $75. That includes the push-to-test button, the warning lamp and heat shrink for both. Such a deal! Rod do not archive >From: "David Lamphere" <lamphere@earthlink.net> >To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com> >Subject: AeroElectric-List: Hi-V/Lo-V Monitor >Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2007 14:26:09 -0500 > ><lamphere@earthlink.net> > >I've tried calling the 316-685-8617 number for AEC a couple of days now - >no answer. >Does anyone know what the AEC 9005-101 Hi-V/Lo-V monitor costs? Unless I >have missed it, the website doesn't give a price. Just the bare-bones PC >card for a DIY version. > >Dave > > _________________________________________________________________ Play Flexicon: the crossword game that feeds your brain. PLAY now for FREE. http://zone.msn.com/en/flexicon/default.htm?icid=flexicon_hmtagline


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:41:40 AM PST US
    From: "Mark Banus" <mbanus@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Re: BMA Power Board?
    Eric, I have a powerboard I'm using with a duel battery electrical system (Z-X) with a Subaru in a Glasair II. As I'm not flying yet I can't give a performance assessment. But it has made it very easy to install the electrical system. I like the idea of the "polyswitches". I have also developed a circuit that lights a green LED above each switch when the switch is on and circuit closed. The LED turns red if the circuit opens with the switch on so I know if power is lost to a circuit. Mark Banus


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:17:01 AM PST US
    From: Bruce Bell <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Test
    Test


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:54:44 AM PST US
    From: Dave N6030X <N6030X@DaveMorris.com>
    Subject: Re: Hi-V/Lo-V Monitor
    I don't know, but for $285, you can have a Hi-Lo voltage monitor and 16 additional voice warnings in your headset. "Check Bus Voltage", "Check Airspeed", "Check Fuel Pressure", etc. Very slick. http://www.buy-ei.com/Voice%20Annunciator%20AV-17.htm Dave Morris At 01:26 PM 2/27/2007, you wrote: ><lamphere@earthlink.net> > >I've tried calling the 316-685-8617 number for AEC a couple of days >now - no answer. >Does anyone know what the AEC 9005-101 Hi-V/Lo-V monitor costs? >Unless I have missed it, the website doesn't give a price. Just the >bare-bones PC card for a DIY version. > >Dave > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 09:46:31 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Baluns and contactors . . .
    >Hi Bob, > >I found your comment about the difference between a coax balun performance >vs. ferrite core balun somewhat contrary to my experience. I am building a >Long EZ and the port rudder has a coax balun (RG58) and the starboard side >has a ferrite balun. The side by side performance (before they were >mounted to the wings) difference between the two antennas is remarkable. By what means of measurement? Recall that thousands of airplanes are flying without benefit of a BALUN and the owners report "no problems" . . . The article wasn't intended to persuade anyone to adopt any particular configuration but was only ONE example of an easy way to go about it. Figures of merit between configurations are often so small that they cannot be deduced by operator observations and yield only to analysis by laboratory measurement. > >The drawing you have for the balun is not like the balun I built. My >design came from an old navy electronics manual and is significantly >different than what you have shown. In my schematic, the center conductor >between the two elements in the shrink wrap are tied together (actually >never broken), I'll send you a copy of the schematic if I can find it. There are a number of ways to make a useful connection between a feedline and an antenna . . . and a variety of ways that BALUNS can be fabricated. Each configuration has characteristics defined by the physics and performance defined by measurement. But it's unlikely that even side-by-side comparison by operator observation will produce a clear "winner". The point of the article was to offer an alternative to manufactured antennas (whether or not the BALUN is ferrite or even present) that tend to be pretty expensive. > >Different question. Master Contactor. Is the Cessna Contactor sufficient >for running start power through it ( I don't know how the Cessna is >wired)? Some folks on the web are saying no, that you need something that >will handle 300 amps. I have found some TYCO contactors rated that way - >but they are $90 vs $20 at ACS. There are "ratings" and then there are "ratings". Take a peek at the article on switches at: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/swtchrat.pdf Relays and contactors are but remotely operated switches. In addition to make-break contacts, a relay or contactor has additional considerations concerning its solenoid or coils. There have been hundreds of thousands of airplanes built wherein the 70A "rated" RBMC/White-Rogers/Stancor contactors have offered satisfactory service life as a battery master relay even though it's routinely 'overloaded' during engine cranking. The ability of a device to "carry" current is several times better than the device's ability to 'switch' current . . . this is why starter contactors and battery contactors are built differently. See chapter in the 'Connection about continuous and intermittent duty contactors. Bob . . . ---------------------------------------- ( IF one aspires to be "world class", ) ( what ever you do must be exercised ) ( EVERY day . . . ) ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 6


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    Time: 10:06:27 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Full Auto
    At 11:03 AM 2/26/2007 -0500, you wrote: >I checked out that figure, and all the others as well, but It requires >tripping the battery switch and a 1-3 E-Bus Alternate feed switch. It's >not full auto switching. Isn't there something simpler? What is the design goal? What is the investment in $time$ needed to meet those goals? What is your perceived return on investment for having spent the $time$? The term "full auto" doesn't paint a lucid picture of the operation desired nor does it help us understand the goal. What kind of failure are you contemplating will benefit from the $time$ spent to achieve totally hands-off mitigation? When you have an alternator failure, how do you expect the outcome of flight to be significantly altered because you've added hardware to do it automatically as opposed to the repositioning of couple of switches in response to a low voltage warning light? If KISS is your true goal, the start with any activities that reduce parts count, weight, wiring complexity and cost of ownership. The Z-figures are purposely devoid of much in the way of automation because I can deduce no additional features that offer real return on investment. Bob . . . Bob . . . ---------------------------------------- ( IF one aspires to be "world class", ) ( what ever you do must be exercised ) ( EVERY day . . . ) ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 7


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    Time: 10:42:33 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: 2 Grounds
    At 11:32 AM 2/26/2007 -0500, you wrote: > >Do I need a separate ground for the Avionics, including the phones. Or >will the ganged firewall (cool side) ground block be satisfactory for all >my grounds? I think the audio panel (GMA 340) has a ground block. >Thanks, >Sam Marlow See chapter on Grounds in the 'Connection and in particular the suggested architectures illustrated in Figure Z-15 in . . . http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev11/AppZ_R11J.pdf The term "need" is not quantifiable. There are tens of thousands of vehicles including airplanes where various systems in power distribution and signal handling are "grounded" willy-nilly without consideration for the physics For every builder that touts a "need" there will be a half dozen who cite observations based on their own experiences that contradict the notion of "need". Bottom line is that there are reasons based in physics that show now potential for noise and/or degraded operation can be elevated by inattention to grounding. It's easy to do but if you don't wish to do it, probability of a PERCEIVED degradation of performance is low. HOWEVER when a build comes on the list citing some anomalous or noisy behavior, the first question that enters my mind is, "How are your grounds architectured?". If things are stuck down to the airframe without regard to practices and principles KNOWN to reduce risk, then identifying and fixing the problem can be much harder. None of us can tell you that you NEED to do anything but plenty of us who will sympathize with you should some noise problem present itself at some time in the future. Bob . . . ---------------------------------------- ( IF one aspires to be "world class", ) ( what ever you do must be exercised ) ( EVERY day . . . ) ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 8


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    Time: 10:44:35 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Larger fuse link
    At 05:56 PM 2/26/2007 -0500, you wrote: > >Hi, Bob. I need to put a fuse link in a 14 AWG wire - the endurance buss >feed in Z-1. The fuselink article on your site says to contact you if >fuse links larger than 22 AWG are needed. Is there an article for the >larger fuse link? > >Thanks very much for your help. No . . . larger fuse links are not recommended except in those few places where they're illustrated in the Z-figurs. An e-bus feeder of that size should come through a relay (mini-contactor) tapped off a fused slot on the battery bus a illustrated in: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/E-BusFatFeed.gif Bob . . . ---------------------------------------- ( IF one aspires to be "world class", ) ( what ever you do must be exercised ) ( EVERY day . . . ) ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 9


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    Time: 10:52:44 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Bob, Can you put Commtap back up?
    At 08:19 AM 2/27/2007 -0800, you wrote: > >http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/commtap/commtap.html > >The link above to the roll your own comm tap doesn't work and I was hoping >you could reload it. Several Fellow Grumman owners are wanting to tie in >their handhelds and I wanted them to consider how to DIY > >Thanks Bob That comic book was crafted as a quick-n-dirty solution but upon later reflection, was not the best we know how to do. There are equivalent products on the market not the least of which is: http://www.tagpilotsupply.com/browseproducts/Antenna-Switchbox-(IC-ANT-SB).html I've got some ideas about a better way to go about it that will become a product this summer. If you'd like to pursue the original design, see these photos for guidance: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Antenna/ICOM_HH_Adapter_1.jpg http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Antenna/ICOM_HH_Adapter_2.jpg Bob . . . ---------------------------------------- ( IF one aspires to be "world class", ) ( what ever you do must be exercised ) ( EVERY day . . . ) ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 10


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    Time: 10:58:11 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Hi-V/Lo-V Monitor
    At 02:26 PM 2/27/2007 -0500, you wrote: ><lamphere@earthlink.net> > >I've tried calling the 316-685-8617 number for AEC a couple of days now - >no answer. That's my home office phone and there's generally nobody here during the day to answer it. I've got a daytime job too! Just got back about 4:00 this morning from a trip to Dayton on a noise filter design task for the boss. Was a VERY good trip. Took a lot of weight and cost out of fixing a noise problem on some really expensive airplanes! >Does anyone know what the AEC 9005-101 Hi-V/Lo-V monitor costs? Unless I >have missed it, the website doesn't give a price. Just the bare-bones PC >card for a DIY version. The bare boards are still available but the product is going to be replaced by this device: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9011/9011-700-1C.pdf One of these is flying and we're going to get a few more installed and flying before they go up on the website. This three channel device will sell for $60 to $80 depending on what options are desired. Bob . . . ---------------------------------------- ( IF one aspires to be "world class", ) ( what ever you do must be exercised ) ( EVERY day . . . ) ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 11


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    Time: 10:59:38 AM PST US
    From: Dave N6030X <N6030X@DaveMorris.com>
    Subject: Re: BMA Power Board?
    LED indicators above switches makes the panel look very cool. I thought about that for my airplane, too. But once you fly a while, you realize that most switches control things that you will know right away either have power or don't have power. The fuel pump makes a nice thumping noise when it's got voltage. And it shows up on the fuel pressure gauge. It's pretty obvious when the instrument lights have power. The landing light in daylight might not be obvious, and neither are the strobes, but at night, there's no doubt whether they have voltage. The pitot heat when kicked on will make a nice jump in the voltmeter or ammeter. That really only leaves the "arm nukes" switch that I would need an LED indicator for. Don't make things too complicated or expensive for yourself. Dave Morris At 07:37 AM 2/28/2007, you wrote: >Eric, > > > I have a powerboard I'm using with a duel battery electrical > system (Z-X) with a Subaru in a Glasair II. As I'm not flying yet > I can't give a performance assessment. But it has made it very easy > to install the electrical system. I like the idea of the > "polyswitches". I have also developed a circuit that lights a green > LED above each switch when the switch is on and circuit closed. The > LED turns red if the circuit opens with the switch on so I know if > power is lost to a circuit. > > >Mark Banus >


    Message 12


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    Time: 11:36:29 AM PST US
    From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Re: BMA Power Board?
    Mark, I also have the BMA Power Board (and EFIS/One) which is installed in my "not flying yet" RV-10. And it has made the installation much simpler and easier. My question was intended to get thoughts on the reliability/durability of the Power Board. It looks to have several single point failure modes. What back-up system are you using for when the Power Board malfunctions? I'd be very interested to see your wiring schematic as I'm working to finish mine before any final wiring starts. I plan to have all the essential components for safe IFR flight also powered thru a second bus independent of the Power Board. ERic-- RV-10 N104EP


    Message 13


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    Time: 11:42:01 AM PST US
    From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Details of BMA Power Board
    Here's more details on the BMA Power Board. http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/download_powerboard/power_board_installation_2_51.doc ERic-- RV-10 N104EP


    Message 14


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    Time: 11:44:12 AM PST US
    Subject: Garmin 430W manual
    From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mike.stewart@us.ibm.com>
    Know where I can get my hands on one of these? There are some new annunciator installation requirements I would like to review. Thanks Mike Do not archive


    Message 15


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    Time: 12:31:55 PM PST US
    From: "Bill Denton" <bdenton@bdenton.com>
    Subject: Garmin 430W manual
    Ask here and ye shall receive...maybe... Turns out the 430W manual is too big to send through the Matronics system... If you'll reply to bdenton AT bdenton DOT com with your email address I'll be happy to forward it to you -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 1:37 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Garmin 430W manual <mike.stewart@us.ibm.com> Know where I can get my hands on one of these? There are some new annunciator installation requirements I would like to review. Thanks Mike Do not archive


    Message 16


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    Time: 12:40:29 PM PST US
    From: "Bill and Marsha" <docyukon@ptcnet.net>
    Subject: Pulse width modulation on linear actuators
    Bob I also am in need of a speed controller to slow down a linear actuator that I intend to use for my manually in-flight adjustable prop. I have a Werner Electric actuator rated at 1.3a no load and 5.9a full load (75 lbs) Full load speed .6 in. sec. no-load speed. 1 in sec.I should need only about 25 lbs force. My question is, If I use your Dimmer ckt, as shown in the earlier attached PDF link, What are the component values that should be used to build it. And can I expect app 1/3 force at 1/3 speed? Bill S. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> > To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 1:38 AM > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Pulse width modulation on linear actuators > > >> <nuckollsr@cox.net> >> >> At 09:55 PM 2/15/2007 -0800, you wrote: >> >>><tim2542@sbcglobal.net> >>> >>>Can any one tell if the duty cycle on a PWM will equate at least roughly >>>with motor speed? ie will a 20% duty cycle slow the motor down to >>>approximately %20 or does it not work that way? I have a linear actuator >>>for >>>pitch trim that that travels 2"/sec, I need about .5"/sec. >> >> >> Probably. PM motors have field fields which makes >> RPM proportional to applied voltage. The RMS (power) >> available from any source is also proportional >> to duty cycle for a non-continuous flow. In any >> case, I presume you're going to make the duty cycle >> adjustable so whether it takes 25% duty cycle >> or 27% duty cycle to achieve exactly the speed you >> want is irrelevant. >> >> You can also use linear techniques. An adjustable >> but regulated voltage source not unlike the dimmers >> described in . . . >> >> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles//DimmerFabrication.pdf >> >> . . . may be considered also. How much current does >> your motor draw at full speed? >> >> Bob . . . >> >> ---------------------------------------- >> ( IF one aspires to be "world class", ) >> ( what ever you do must be exercised ) >> ( EVERY day . . . ) >> ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) >> ---------------------------------------- >> >> >> >> >> >


    Message 17


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    Time: 02:16:42 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: BMA Power Board?
    From: "h&amp;jeuropa" <europa@triton.net>
    I have the BMA power board in our Europa (flying). It was primarily installed because of the PTC protection. The big drawback, is that the entire board is protected by a single fuse, 35A. I attempted to use the cool MOSFET switching transistors and make everything go thru the board. However, with nav lights, landing lite and strobes on, hitting transmit on the com blew the fuse. I moved many items to conventional fuses at that time. Now I am about to remove the BMA board. Using simple faston connectors I can make a board with all the PTC's I want and split them into the various busses too. I used Tyco 164 switches like BMA uses. They are available with up to 3 sets of contacts, 5A each so you can control most things with them. Use a simple relay for others (pitot heat etc). If you need the coolie hat stuff, I think that's available from Ray Allen - I'm not using that. Jim Butcher Europa N241BW Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97994#97994


    Message 18


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    Time: 02:20:53 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Pulse width modulation on linear actuators
    At 02:39 PM 2/28/2007 -0600, you wrote: ><docyukon@ptcnet.net> > > >Bob I also am in need of a speed controller to slow down a linear >actuator that I intend to use for my manually in-flight adjustable prop. I >have a Werner Electric actuator rated at 1.3a no load and 5.9a full load >(75 lbs) Full load speed .6 in. sec. no-load speed. 1 in sec.I should need >only about 25 lbs force. My question is, If I use your Dimmer ckt, as shown >in the earlier attached PDF link, What are the component values that should >be used to build it. And can I expect app 1/3 force at 1/3 speed? There's a LOT of misconceptions about speed controllers for motors and their effects on performance . . . particularly under varying loads. A dropping resistor tends to be a constant current source and will it does slow the motor down, it also limits stall torque. A REGULATING adjustable voltage source such as the linear regulators (described on my website) will hold constant voltage irrespective of actuator load and therefore does not seriously limit the actuator's torque. Duty cycle (pulse width) controllers behave similarly. I think the dimmer circuit fabricated with an LM338K (5A regulator) will do what you want done. The values of components are probalby in the ball park for the voltage range you need too. Bob . . .


    Message 19


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    Time: 03:50:19 PM PST US
    From: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
    Subject: Re: Garmin 430W manual
    I need a 430W Installation Manual too, as I want to make any wiring changes now, before the aircraft leaves the garage. Thanks, Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 khorton01@rogers.com


    Message 20


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    Time: 05:31:41 PM PST US
    From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley1@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Van's Ammeter
    Listers, I have a Van's - 0 + ammeter. It is very sensitive to rapidly changing loads, especially to the strobe load. The needle is in constant vibration while the strobes are on and/or the landing/taxi light wig-wag is wig-wagging . Is there a reasonable means (preferably connected externally) for increasing its response time. Its external connections are gnd, power, and two terminals to the shunt. Thanks in advance for suggestions. Richard Dudley RV-6A flying


    Message 21


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    Time: 06:02:42 PM PST US
    From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: 2 Grounds
    Bob, To quote you, chapter 18 page 11 of the connection (hope I am not violating your copy write) "The forest-of-ground-tabs technique described in Chapter 5 is entirely suitable and convenient for most equipment in the electrical system. However, while it is electrically correct to wire all the panel mounted equipment to the same ground block the total number of wires can be significant. Further, given that there are a number of small signal systems vulnerable to noise concentrated on the panel, it makes sense to create separate and co-located ground system for these potential victims. ..." Are you saying that the separate and co-located avionics ground system is acceptable because the potential for noise from this design is minimal, and the advantage of not running many separate grounds from all the avionics to the ground bus outweighs the minimal noise potential. Can I then make the conclusion, that if the ground bus were near the avionics, running the wires a single bus would be minimally superior? Larry Rosen Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > <nuckollsr@cox.net> > > At 11:32 AM 2/26/2007 -0500, you wrote: > >> >> Do I need a separate ground for the Avionics, including the phones. >> Or will the ganged firewall (cool side) ground block be satisfactory >> for all my grounds? I think the audio panel (GMA 340) has a ground >> block. >> Thanks, >> Sam Marlow > > See chapter on Grounds in the 'Connection and in > particular the suggested architectures illustrated > in Figure Z-15 in . . . > > http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev11/AppZ_R11J.pdf > > The term "need" is not quantifiable. There are tens > of thousands of vehicles including airplanes where > various systems in power distribution and signal > handling are "grounded" willy-nilly without consideration > for the physics > > For every builder that touts a "need" there will be > a half dozen who cite observations based on their > own experiences that contradict the notion of "need". > > Bottom line is that there are reasons based in physics > that show now potential for noise and/or degraded operation > can be elevated by inattention to grounding. It's easy > to do but if you don't wish to do it, probability of > a PERCEIVED degradation of performance is low. HOWEVER > when a build comes on the list citing some anomalous or > noisy behavior, the first question that enters my mind > is, "How are your grounds architectured?". > > If things are stuck down to the airframe without regard > to practices and principles KNOWN to reduce risk, then > identifying and fixing the problem can be much harder. > > None of us can tell you that you NEED to do anything > but plenty of us who will sympathize with you should > some noise problem present itself at some time in the > future. > > Bob . . . > > > ---------------------------------------- > ( IF one aspires to be "world class", ) > ( what ever you do must be exercised ) > ( EVERY day . . . ) > ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) > ---------------------------------------- > >


    Message 22


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    Time: 06:15:34 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Van's Ammeter
    At 08:30 PM 2/28/2007 -0500, you wrote: ><rhdudley1@bellsouth.net> > >Listers, >I have a Van's - 0 + ammeter. It is very sensitive to rapidly changing >loads, especially to the strobe load. The needle is in constant vibration >while the strobes are on and/or the landing/taxi light wig-wag is >wig-wagging . Is there a reasonable means (preferably connected >externally) for increasing its response time. Its external connections >are gnd, power, and two terminals to the shunt. > >Thanks in advance for suggestions. > >Richard Dudley >RV-6A flying This instrument is a very low-impedance device (40mv full scale as I recall) in terms of adding damping. The really slick way to damp these devices is to put a drop of hi-viscosity silicone oil in the pivot bearings. We experimented with this at Cessna about 1965 . . . it worked really well. I think we had Stewart-Warner do that mod on future units but I don't recall now. There's a 50,000 cts "differential lock" oil that's popular with the electric race car crowd that costs about $5.00 for a 1 oz bottle. One drop on each bearing would damp it very nicely. The problem with doing the job electrically is that the source impedance for the driving signal is VERY low . . . like a few milliohms. It takes a whopping capacitor to add much time-constant at this low level. Try putting say a 10 ohm resistor in series with one of the shunt leads and the parallel the instrument with the biggest capacitor you can find. I've got some 330uf/6v tantalums you could try. About three of those in parallel would get 1000uF. This MIGHT be useful to try. Bob . . . ---------------------------------------- ( IF one aspires to be "world class", ) ( what ever you do must be exercised ) ( EVERY day . . . ) ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 23


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    Time: 07:21:13 PM PST US
    From: "B Tomm" <fvalarm@rapidnet.net>
    Subject: 2 1/4 inch transponder
    I'm considering on using a 2 1/4 inch transponder such as Becker or Microair to free up space in my vertical stack. Does anyone have any experience, cautions or other advice regarding these "round" transponders? They are not as common as the Garmin but any good? Thanks Bevan RV7A finishing kit




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