Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:10 AM - affordable panels (Dennis Jones)
2. 03:57 AM - Re: affordable panels (eddyfernan@aol.com)
3. 04:10 AM - Re: affordable panels (Bobby Hester)
4. 04:26 AM - Re: GPS Antenna? (Bill Denton)
5. 06:16 AM - 2 Grounds (James H Nelson)
6. 06:31 AM - Affordable Panels (James H Nelson)
7. 06:53 AM - Re: 2 Grounds (Ken)
8. 07:32 AM - batteries (Peter C)
9. 09:27 AM - Splitters for Sale (Richard Dudley)
10. 10:11 AM - Re: batteries (Doug Windhorn)
11. 11:36 AM - Re: batteries (Peter C)
12. 12:13 PM - Battery Tenders as recharging tools . . . (James H Nelson)
13. 12:17 PM - Backup Electric Vacuum Pump (steveadams)
14. 12:58 PM - Re: Battery Tenders as recharging tools . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 01:02 PM - Re: 2 Grounds (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 01:12 PM - Re: Switch drilling template (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 01:23 PM - Battery Tenders as recharging tools . . . (James H Nelson)
18. 02:02 PM - Backup Electric Vacuum Pump (BobsV35B@aol.com)
19. 02:03 PM - Re: Backup Electric Vacuum Pump (Ken)
20. 02:46 PM - Re: Backup Electric Vacuum Pump (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 02:49 PM - Re: batteries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
22. 02:50 PM - Re: Switch drilling template (Gilles Thesee)
23. 03:07 PM - Re: Battery Tenders as recharging tools . (paul wilson)
24. 04:25 PM - Re: Backup Electric Vacuum Pump (Bob White)
25. 05:02 PM - Re: affordable panels (Mark/Kara Phillips)
26. 05:29 PM - Re: batteries (europa flugzeug fabrik)
27. 05:51 PM - Re: affordable panels (John Morgensen)
28. 06:28 PM - Re: Battery Tenders (William Slaughter)
29. 08:04 PM - Re: Battery Tenders (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
30. 09:05 PM - Re: Battery Tenders as recharging tools . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
31. 10:46 PM - Stereo Input Jack (Chris Byrne)
32. 11:29 PM - Re: Stereo Input Jack (Carl Morgan)
Message 1
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| Subject: | affordable panels |
Any one have feed back on there experience with Affordable Panels service or product?
Thanks
Jonsey
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98264#98264
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: affordable panels |
I have a complete modular panel from Affordable panels and would recomend them
as the way to go for your project.
You can contact me off the list if you have any questions.
Eddy
RV9A 95 hours and loving it!
-----Original Message-----
From: djones@northboone.net
Sent: Fri, 2 Mar 2007 3:05 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: affordable panels
Any one have feed back on there experience with Affordable Panels service or
product?
Thanks
Jonsey
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98264#98264
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL
at AOL.com.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: affordable panels |
I have one in my plane and love it! Great service when I ordered mine
about 3-4 yrs ago!
There are pictures on my web site below :-) Click on them to enlarge.
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
My RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Dennis Jones wrote:
>
>Any one have feed back on there experience with Affordable Panels service or product?
>
>Thanks
>Jonsey
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98264#98264
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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At one time 3M owned Stormscope. Could it be an antenna for that product?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
bakerocb@cox.net
Sent: Thursday, March 1, 2007 10:11 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: GPS Antenna?
3/1/2006
Hello Fellow Listers, I am trying to identify an object on the bottom of the
fuselage of a Beech Sierra airplane. It is black plastic about the size of a
cigar box. Embossed on the bottom of the box is an arrow pointing forward
and the letters 3M.
It was described at one time as a GPS antenna, but that does not make much
sense to me. Why would a GPS antenna be on the bottom of the fuselage? I
also am not able to locate any antenna created by 3M.
Any good ideas? Many thanks.
OC -- The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and understand
knowledge.
Message 5
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Yup! That is what I did. Just get a large enough ground tab block. I
had to run several wires thru the fire wall pass thru and use the ground
tabs on the fire wall side. That is OK as there was a lot of unused tabs
on that side anyway. I think I got the 24/24 block. Working out fine
and I still have about a dozen empty tabs on the fire wall side to be
used as necessary.
Jim
RV9-A QB (FWF bout done)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Affordable Panels |
Hi Dennis,
You will like working with Fabian. He does a quality job and it
is worth it. If you have to go behind your panel you will be very happy
you put in the three piece unit. I bought the "tall" panel and I have
GRT dual screens that fit nicely. I surrounded them with the A/S, Alt,
VSI and TT Pictoral Pilot as my T&B / wing leveler. You can see my
layout at www.websites.expercraft.com/jimn I'm about finished with the
panel wiring and getting ready to put on the top skin. Fabian's pricing
is also good. He sent me a CD for the large panel which I could go to my
local Kinko's and have a full size print out of the panel. With that,
you can use your cut outs to put items where you want. I literally used
my caliper to fit things with in .025". He cut it exactly as I wanted
and every thing fit. Its the way to go IMHO.
Jim Nelson
RV9-A
Message 7
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Me too however the radio, intercom, and my strobe power supplies are all
also grounded to their respective cases (as well as their ground pins)
and therefore to the metal airframe. I can not hear the strobe whine in
flight but it is obvious on the ground. Since various capacitors and
chokes on the 12v strobe power supply did not help, I decided that this
was a "feature" to remind me to turn them off after landing ;)
Fortunately there is no transponder reply noise which has annoyed me on
some other airplanes.
Ken
Doug Windhorn wrote:
> Eric,
>
> Certainly a way that I could feel comfortable with (and the way I did
> mine).
>
> Doug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Eric Newton <mailto:enewton57@cableone.net>
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> <mailto:aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, 01 March, 2007 16:31
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: 2 Grounds
>
> I have a decidedly small and low tech avionics system. A single
> radio (ICOM A200) a single transponder (Colllins) and a single
> intercom (PS 1000). So with that simple of a system, I'll
> probably just run the ground wire from each component to the
> forest of tabs on the firewall. If I'm reading your post right,
> that's perfectly acceptable, right?
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
> BH #682
> http://mybearhawk.com
>
Message 8
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Bob would you mind commenting on this?
First battery selection. I can understand that AH capacity is a good
measurement for people with "electric" airplanes that need emergency
capacity but suppose your prime concern is cranking ability (amps/speed)
as may be the case for those of us flying Rotax "magneto" engines. What
specs should we be using to compare batteries or is it even possible
considering the variation in how the numbers are derived between
manufacturers? Don't I want something like a max cold cranking amps
number (which also seems to be calculated differently between
manufacturers)?
Next, your Rotax diagram shows #4 wire. Would I get any noticeable
benefit going to #2 if my runs are less than 3 feet?
Finally, since cranking is my priority I plan to take a ground run
directly from battery to starter then back to your style firewall
ground. Worthwhile?
My battery is on the floor between the rudder pedals. The starter
solenoid has its battery post bolted right to the + battery post; a
manual Hella switch is mounted with a short plate right on the neg
battery post so there are only two cables + and - to starter with a
third from starter to ground bolt on firewall.
Like it?
Thanks
Peter
Message 9
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| Subject: | Splitters for Sale |
Listers,
I have two different splitters that I do not need and would like to
sell. They are:
1. DIM Antenna Technologies Type DM H22-1 Diplexer. From the Chief
Aircraft catalog: "Single VOR and single GS. Will permit operation of
one NAV and one glide slope receiver from one VOR antenna. VSWR 1.5:1.
Weight 0.25 lbs." Has one BNC input and two BNC outputs. $45.00
2. Comant Industries CI 5120 Dual VOR/GS Splitter. Distributes input
from one VOR/LOC/GS antenna to two VOR/LOC/GS receivers. BNC input and
outputs. $30.00
I'll pay the shipping.
Richard Dudley
RV-6A flying
Message 10
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Peter, I have some comments for you to consider.
Battery and wire size selection: Look for a battery, regardless of
size, that has low internal resistance (such as the Odyssey brand) RG
battery - that will likely have a bigger impact on starting than
anything else in your circuit. What is the voltage drop you expect in
#4 vs. #2 wire for a 6' run (out and back) while flowing about 250 amps?
If you determine that, then you can answer your own question on wire
size.
Ground routing: Makes sense. The return wire from the starter ground to
the firewall then could be much smaller, sized to handle the other loads
that you might have and same as battery to fuse block/breaker bus for
the positive side.
Solenoid mounting: I think mounting anything to the battery posts other
than a connector wire is asking for trouble. Vibration will tend to
cause the solenoid weight to eventually work harden and break the
battery post. Would recommend a much different approach here.
Doug Windhorn
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter C
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, 02 March, 2007 7:30
Subject: AeroElectric-List: batteries
Bob would you mind commenting on this?
First battery selection. I can understand that AH capacity is a good
measurement for people with "electric" airplanes that need emergency
capacity but suppose your prime concern is cranking ability (amps/speed)
as may be the case for those of us flying Rotax "magneto" engines. What
specs should we be using to compare batteries or is it even possible
considering the variation in how the numbers are derived between
manufacturers? Don't I want something like a max cold cranking amps
number (which also seems to be calculated differently between
manufacturers)?
Next, your Rotax diagram shows #4 wire. Would I get any noticeable
benefit going to #2 if my runs are less than 3 feet?
Finally, since cranking is my priority I plan to take a ground run
directly from battery to starter then back to your style firewall
ground. Worthwhile?
My battery is on the floor between the rudder pedals. The starter
solenoid has its battery post bolted right to the + battery post; a
manual Hella switch is mounted with a short plate right on the neg
battery post so there are only two cables + and - to starter with a
third from starter to ground bolt on firewall.
Like it?
Thanks
Peter
Message 11
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Doug, thanks for your comments.
OK, so I did the calculation and the difference in voltage drop is .34
volts between using 2 vs 4. I'd guess that this isn't significant but is
it in cold temps?
With regard to bolting to the battery lugs, I've also modified the
battery case to provide additional support to the switch and solonoid.
Peter
Message 12
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| Subject: | Battery Tenders as recharging tools . . . |
Where is a good place to buy the Schumacher chargers?
Jim Nelson
Message 13
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| Subject: | Backup Electric Vacuum Pump |
I know the trend is toward glass, however that can be a major project and expense
for those of us with steam gauges. A backup electric AI costs about the same
as a Dynon. I was wondering if anyone has tried putting in a simple electric
vacuum pump as a backup to the engine driven pump. I don't know what kind of
flow you would need to reliably power the gyros, but it seems it would be a relatively
inexpensive and simple retrofit that could even be tied in to a switch
to automatically power the pump when the vacuum pressure drops. I guess it would
also be useful for those converting to glass, who could keep their old gyros
as backup, and still get rid of the engine driven vacuum pump. I know there
is a certified electric pump that costs over $1000, but there are a lot of non-aircraft
air pumps that could probably do the job for a lot less. Any suggestions
or experience with this?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98343#98343
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Tenders as recharging tools . . . |
At 03:09 PM 3/2/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Where is a good place to buy the Schumacher chargers?
>
>Jim Nelson
Walmart automotive department.
Bob . . .
Message 15
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At 06:31 PM 3/1/2007 -0600, you wrote:
>I have a decidedly small and low tech avionics system. A single radio
>(ICOM A200) a single transponder (Colllins) and a single intercom (PS
>1000). So with that simple of a system, I'll probably just run the ground
>wire from each component to the forest of tabs on the firewall. If I'm
>reading your post right, that's perfectly acceptable, right?
Yes. Taking all wires to the single point is
a perfectly good thing to do. Extending the
ground system up to the panel is useful for
more complex installation where the total number
of grounds gets up to a dozen or more.
Bob .. .
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Switch drilling template |
At 07:45 PM 3/1/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>There's one on page 11-16 of Bob's book. It's Figure 11-12. That's
>assuming the switches you mention are the same as the Carling switches
>described in the book. The 15/32 diameter is the same.
>
>Bill
>
>>Anyone can direct me to a drilling drawing or template I could print for
>>a buddy to install his Otto T7 15/32 switches ?
>>I remember seeing such a drawing, but can't remember where.
There's also a suggested set of layouts at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Mechanical/Switches.pdf
The standard toggles mount nicely on 0.8" centers. I'm
going to be adding a drill fixture to the products on
the website in about a week that will assist in drilling
precision spaced and properly aligned holes at 0.7, 0.8 and
0.9 inch intervals.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 17
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| Subject: | Battery Tenders as recharging tools . . . |
Many thanks Bob. My charger from Napa does not seem to bring the charge
up beyond 12.5v even when the charger has been on the battery for 5
days.
Jim Nelson
Message 18
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| Subject: | Backup Electric Vacuum Pump |
Good Afternoon Steve,
What I don't understand is why more folks don't use venturi's. They work
well, are cheap and are very reliable. If they are mounted on the belly in the
path of the airflow from the engine, they even have reasonable protection
from ice.
Many airplanes flew in heavy IFR weather for many years using nothing but a
venturi to power all of the instruments. What gave venturi's a bad name was
when foolish people started to mount them on the side of the fuselage instead
in the airstream behind the engine. I have a small venturi powering a single
T&B. If all else fails, I can easily control the airplane with just that one
T&B. If I have any altitude information at all it is easy. Add a handheld
GPS and I have more than the fanciest airplanes had in the thirties.
I will say that very few people receive as much training as they should in
the use of partial panel.
Along that line, it is a LOT cheaper to take twenty hours of dual in partial
panel operations than it is to buy any standby horizon. And the training
will help in any airplane. One point though. Partial panel can be done with a
turn coordinator, but I much prefer the classic T&B. It is about the most
reliable mechanical instrument we have ever had. Some day, I am sure there will
be a solid state turn indicator that will replace the T&B. However, until that
time. Get a T&B, power it with a small venturi and spend a thousand bucks on
dual training getting thoroughly familiar with using the T&B to control the
airplane.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
In a message dated 3/2/2007 2:19:29 P.M. Central Standard Time,
dr_steve_adams@yahoo.com writes:
I know the trend is toward glass, however that can be a major project and
expense for those of us with steam gauges. A backup electric AI costs about the
same as a Dynon. I was wondering if anyone has tried putting in a simple
electric vacuum pump as a backup to the engine drove pump. I don't know what
kind of flow you would need to reliably power the gyros, but it seems it would
be a relatively inexpensive and simple retrofit that could even be tied in to
a switch to automatically power the pump when the vacuum pressure drops. I
guess it would also be useful for those converting to glass, who could keep
their old gyros as backup, and still get rid of the engine driven vacuum pump.
I
know there is a certified electric pump that costs over $1000, but there are
a lot of non-aircraft air pumps that could probably do the job for a lot
less. Any suggestions or experience with this?
<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Backup Electric Vacuum Pump |
The engine intake manifold works fine anytime you are not at full power.
With some partial panel practice, an electric Turn & Bank is also a
sufficient backup for most aircraft.
Some folks like 3 items so you have a tie breaker when one goes wonky.
I have a vacuum and an electric T&B plus a low vacuum warning from the EIS.
Ken
steveadams wrote:
>
>I know the trend is toward glass, however that can be a major project and expense
for those of us with steam gauges. A backup electric AI costs about the same
as a Dynon. I was wondering if anyone has tried putting in a simple electric
vacuum pump as a backup to the engine driven pump. I don't know what kind of
flow you would need to reliably power the gyros, but it seems it would be a relatively
inexpensive and simple retrofit that could even be tied in to a switch
to automatically power the pump when the vacuum pressure drops. I guess it
would also be useful for those converting to glass, who could keep their old gyros
as backup, and still get rid of the engine driven vacuum pump. I know there
is a certified electric pump that costs over $1000, but there are a lot of
non-aircraft air pumps that could probably do the job for a lot less. Any suggestions
or experience with this?
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Backup Electric Vacuum Pump |
At 12:16 PM 3/2/2007 -0800, you wrote:
><dr_steve_adams@yahoo.com>
>
>I know the trend is toward glass, however that can be a major project and
>expense for those of us with steam gauges. A backup electric AI costs
>about the same as a Dynon. I was wondering if anyone has tried putting in
>a simple electric vacuum pump as a backup to the engine driven pump. I
>don't know what kind of flow you would need to reliably power the gyros,
>but it seems it would be a relatively inexpensive and simple retrofit that
>could even be tied in to a switch to automatically power the pump when the
>vacuum pressure drops. I guess it would also be useful for those
>converting to glass, who could keep their old gyros as backup, and still
>get rid of the engine driven vacuum pump. I know there is a certified
>electric pump that costs over $1000, but there are a lot of non-aircraft
>air pumps that could probably do the job for a lot less. Any suggestions
>or experience with this?
While in the employ of Electro-Mech in the early 80s we
were among the several companies that brought electrically
driven, stand-by vacuum pumps to the GA market. First,
know that the energy required is not insubstantial. As
I recall, our 28 volt offering drew about 6 amps of current.
A 14 volt would be about twice that much. Second, you'll need
to supply some sort of transfer valve in the plumbing.
Be wary of automatic valves . . . a stuck transfer
valve contributed to the sad outcome of this event:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/N79NL.pdf
Then there's the weight. I'm thinking that the
s/b vacuum system adds about 6 pounds of weight.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 21
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At 10:30 AM 3/2/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>Bob would you mind commenting on this?
>
>First battery selection. I can understand that AH capacity is a good
>measurement for people with "electric" airplanes that need emergency
>capacity but suppose your prime concern is cranking ability (amps/speed)
>as may be the case for those of us flying Rotax "magneto" engines. What
>specs should we be using to compare batteries or is it even possible
>considering the variation in how the numbers are derived between
>manufacturers? Don't I want something like a max cold cranking amps
>number (which also seems to be calculated differently between manufacturers)?
>
>Next, your Rotax diagram shows #4 wire. Would I get any noticeable benefit
>going to #2 if my runs are less than 3 feet?
No
>
>Finally, since cranking is my priority I plan to take a ground run
>directly from battery to starter then back to your style firewall ground.
>Worthwhile?
Probably not.
>
>My battery is on the floor between the rudder pedals. The starter solenoid
>has its battery post bolted right to the + battery post; a manual Hella
>switch is mounted with a short plate right on the neg battery post so
>there are only two cables + and - to starter with a third from starter to
>ground bolt on firewall.
Please don't mount hardware directly to any battery post.
4AWG SOFT jumpers fabricated from welding cable are recommended.
The only two in-flight failures of batteries I've encountered
were broken off connection posts precipitated by too much
mass mounted too rigidly to the posts.
For the distances you're talking about, 4AWG will be fine.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Switch drilling template |
Robert L. Nuckolls, III a crit :
> <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>> <steerr@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> There's one on page 11-16 of Bob's book. It's Figure 11-12. That's
>> assuming the switches you mention are the same as the Carling
>> switches described in the book. The 15/32 diameter is the same.
> There's also a suggested set of layouts at:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Mechanical/Switches.pdf
Bill and Bob,
Thank you. I knew it was there, but memory is failing.
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Tenders as recharging tools . |
I have a Black Decker version of the maintainer. Seems to work just like my two
different Schumachers'. Now I see both in the local WalMart. Either are under
$18.
The Schumacher 1.5a has a 12/6v switch. It holds the batt at 13.2+v. The other
Schumacher is a 12v only 1.0a unit and works the same way. Neither of these units
like a significantly discharged batt. They just shut off.
The B&D is 12v only has a 1a/2a switch & holds the batt at 12.9+v. All 3 units
behave the same in that when they see less than the min setting they go into the
charge mode to a voltage somewhat above 14v the shutoff until the batt discharges
to the min values noted above.
Paul
=========
At 12:57 PM 3/2/2007, you wrote:
At 03:09 PM 3/2/2007 -0500, you wrote:
Where is a good place to buy the Schumacher chargers?
Jim Nelson
Walmart automotive department.
Bob . . .
_________________________________
SISNA...more service, less money.
http://www.sisna.com/exclusive/
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Backup Electric Vacuum Pump |
Hi Steve,
I looked at a couple of things to generate a vacuum. Some cars in the
early 90's had an electric smog pump. I bought one on ebay for about
$100 and found that it pulled over 10 amps at 13 V and connecting it to
the vacuum system left over from the removal of a Lycoming didn't
provide enough vacuum to run a DG and an artificial horizon. There are
vacuum pumps used to provide a vacuum in electric cars but they were
more like $200-$300 and I wasn't willing to spend that much to
experiment. There may be a setup that works but it isn't trivial.
I bought a TruTrak ADI and it seems to work well. Unfortunately the
heading info is GPS based so if you don't have a good GPS signal you
don't have heading (actually track).
If you must have a vacuum instrument, I think Old Bob's advice is good.
Use a venturi to run a T&B
Bob W.
On Fri, 2 Mar 2007 12:16:54 -0800
"steveadams" <dr_steve_adams@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> I know the trend is toward glass, however that can be a major project and expense
for those of us with steam gauges. A backup electric AI costs about the same
as a Dynon. I was wondering if anyone has tried putting in a simple electric
vacuum pump as a backup to the engine driven pump. I don't know what kind of
flow you would need to reliably power the gyros, but it seems it would be a
relatively inexpensive and simple retrofit that could even be tied in to a switch
to automatically power the pump when the vacuum pressure drops. I guess it
would also be useful for those converting to glass, who could keep their old
gyros as backup, and still get rid of the engine driven vacuum pump. I know there
is a certified electric pump that costs over $1000, but there are a lot of
non-aircraft air pumps that could probably do the job for a lot less. Any suggestions
or experience with this?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98343#98343
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
First Flight: 11/23/2006 7:50AM - 3.3 Hours Total Time
Cables for your rotary installation - http://www.roblinphoto.com/shop/
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: affordable panels |
Fabian is very knowledgeable about his product and will go out of his way to
help you. Very positive experience.
Mark Phillips
Williamsville Illinois
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Jones" <djones@northboone.net>
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 2:05 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: affordable panels
> <djones@northboone.net>
>
> Any one have feed back on there experience with Affordable Panels service
> or product?
>
> Thanks
> Jonsey
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98264#98264
>
>
>
Message 26
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N1DeltaWhiskey(at)comcast wrote:
> What is the voltage drop you expect in #4 vs. #2 wire for a 6' run (out and
back) while flowing about 250 amps?
This is apparently about a Rotax 91x engine, though? The starter relay supplied
with my kitplane for a 912/914 is 70A. More consistent with the kW spec of
the starter motor. Maybe 50A average?
Fred F.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98404#98404
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: affordable panels |
I am still designing my panel but let me make a few points anyway:
1. The modular panel does cost some panel space and flexibility. That
may or may not be significant.
2. If you have 2 big screens in your panel, then you have 2 large access
holes for maintenance.
I am leaning toward Van's standard panel.
John Morgensen RV9A
Mark/Kara Phillips wrote:
> <mphill@gcctv.com>
>
> Fabian is very knowledgeable about his product and will go out of his
> way to help you. Very positive experience.
>
> Mark Phillips
> Williamsville Illinois
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis Jones" <djones@northboone.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 2:05 AM
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: affordable panels
>
>
>> <djones@northboone.net>
>>
>> Any one have feed back on there experience with Affordable Panels
>> service or product?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Jonsey
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98264#98264
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 28
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Bob,
Speaking of Battery Tenders... I sent my Battery Tender Plus off to you via
UPS on 2/22/07. Please let me know if you've received it or if I need to
start tracking.
William Slaughter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Battery Tenders as recharging tools . . .
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 03:09 PM 3/2/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Where is a good place to buy the Schumacher chargers?
>
>Jim Nelson
Walmart automotive department.
Bob . . .
Message 29
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At 08:27 PM 3/2/2007 -0600, you wrote:
><wslaughter@houston.rr.com>
>
>Bob,
>Speaking of Battery Tenders... I sent my Battery Tender Plus off to you via
>UPS on 2/22/07. Please let me know if you've received it or if I need to
>start tracking.
I received it, did a test with it and put it back into
the mail today. I published a plot on a Battery Minder
some months ago at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/Battery_Minder_Recharge.pdf
Your Battery Tender did this recharge profile.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/Battery_Tender_Recharge.pdf
We can deduce that both of these products service the "top off"
protocols and then drop to similar sustaining voltages.
Thank you for donating the use of your charger for this experiment.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Tenders as recharging tools . |
At 04:06 PM 3/2/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>
>I have a Black Decker version of the maintainer. Seems to work just like
>my two different Schumachers'. Now I see both in the local WalMart. Either
>are under $18.
>The Schumacher 1.5a has a 12/6v switch. It holds the batt at 13.2+v. The
>other Schumacher is a 12v only 1.0a unit and works the same way. Neither
>of these units like a significantly discharged batt. They just shut off.
This is "short circuit" protection kicking in. If you have
a battery pulled lower than 5% of capacity (about 11 volts
under moderate load) then the initial recharge current may
convince some battery charging products that you've connected
a 12 charger to a 6v battery . . . or a shorted battery.
If you have a REALLY dead battery, hook a 12v/1A lightbulb in series
with your charger for an hour or so. Like a #912 . . .
http://tinyurl.com/yorhw3
. . . . As soon as the battery recovers
enough that it doesn't fool the charger into a self-protective
shutdown (anything above 10v or so) then the lamp can be removed
so recharging/sustaining may be allowed to progress normally.
>The B&D is 12v only has a 1a/2a switch & holds the batt at 12.9+v. All 3
>units behave the same in that when they see less than the min setting they
>go into the charge mode to a voltage somewhat above 14v the shutoff until
>the batt discharges to the min values noted above.
Yup, that's how they're supposed to work.
Bob . . .
Message 31
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| Subject: | Stereo Input Jack |
I have a stereo jack to install for input to a GMA 340.
The jack has one long lug which I will attach the white wire to.
The jack has 2 shorter lugs, a bronze colour and a silver colour. I have
a 3 wire cable from the GMA340 wired by the supplier. Which lug should
the white/blue wire and the white/orange wire go to or dosnt it matter.
The logic to the earphone jack is white/blue to tip and white/ orange to
the ring if that helps.
Thanks
Chris Byrne
SYDNEY
Message 32
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| Subject: | Stereo Input Jack |
Hi Chris,
Assuming your harness was made be Stark (which I think it was) and it is the
same as mine....
DB44-340-J2:23 - Music 1 L In Audio In - White
DB44-340-J2:24 - Music 1 R In Audio In - White/Orange
DB44-340-J2:25 - Music 1 Return Audio In - White/Blue
Standard 3.5 mm music jack
Tip - Left Channel
Ring - Right Channel
Sleeve - Ground / Common
HTH,
Carl
--
ZK-VII - RV 7A QB - finishing? - New Zealand
http://www.rvproject.gen.nz/
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Byrne [mailto:jack.byrne@bigpond.com]
Sent: Saturday, 3 March 2007 7:45 p.m.
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Stereo Input Jack
I have a stereo jack to install for input to a GMA 340.
The jack has one long lug which I will attach the white wire to.
The jack has 2 shorter lugs, a bronze colour and a silver colour. I have a
3 wire cable from the GMA340 wired by the supplier. Which lug should the
white/blue wire and the white/orange wire go to or dosnt it matter.
The logic to the earphone jack is white/blue to tip and white/ orange to
the ring if that helps.
Thanks
Chris Byrne
SYDNEY
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