Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:06 AM - Dragging certified aircraft screaming and kicking into (Mark Banus)
2. 06:22 AM - Re: Dragging certified aircraft screaming and kicking into (rd2@evenlink.com)
3. 07:21 AM - Re: Non coax to BNC connector. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 07:27 AM - Re: Rheostat Diagrams (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:50 AM - Re: Popped CB (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 08:15 AM - Re: Dragging certified aircraft screaming and kicking into the 21st Century (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 01:28 PM - BNC connector (Dennis Jones)
8. 02:29 PM - Re: BNC connector (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 02:43 PM - An extra credit quiz . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 04:50 PM - Re: Popped CB ()
11. 06:21 PM - Re: How reliable is reliable (ryan42)
12. 08:02 PM - Re: BNC connector (Dennis Jones)
13. 08:49 PM - Re: Re: How reliable is reliable (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 08:54 PM - Re: BNC connector (Dennis Jones)
15. 09:22 PM - Will steel affect antenna operation? ()
16. 10:00 PM - Re: Will steel affect antenna operation? (Matt Prather)
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Subject: | Dragging certified aircraft screaming and kicking into |
Dave,
Do you have a link to the EI voice annunciator?
Thanks
Mark Banus
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Subject: | Re: Dragging certified aircraft screaming and kicking |
into
Hi Mark,
I am not Dave, but happened to be reading about the annunciator - here is
the URL:
http://www.buy-ei.com/Voice%20Annunciator%20AV-17.htm
You can download the manual and instal instructions at:
http://www.buy-ei.com/Voice%20Annunciator%20AV-17.htm
Select AV-17 in the right column.
Best
Rumen
do not archive
_____________________Original message __________________________
(received from Mark Banus; Date: 09:04 AM 3/18/2007
-0400)
________________________________________________________________
Dave, Do you have a link to the EI voice annunciator? Thanks
Mark Banus
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Non coax to BNC connector. |
At 12:33 AM 3/18/2007 -0400, you wrote:
><dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
>Have an Electronics International Capacitive Fuel Gauge for Van's capacitive
>senders in my RV-6 fuel tanks. Van's sender kit included female BNC
>connectors that are pro-sealed right into the tank. Fuel gauge comes with
>harness and two sets of short cables (that include converter circuit cards
>molded into them) that takes two wires out of the tank and converts to three
>wires for connection to the gauge. The converter cable assemblies have two
>AWG20 wires going in and three AWG20 wires that connect to the gauge. I
>need to somehow hook the two AWG20 wires to a BNC male connector to mate
>with the connector on each tank. The center conductor is a no brainer but
>what would be the best way to hook the other wire to what would normally be
>the shield of the coax crimped under the cylindrical cover (on the outside
>of the coax)? Thanks.
Do you know where I can download the installation manual
for your system . . . or do you have it in .pdf form that
you can e-mail to me?
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
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Subject: | Re: Rheostat Diagrams |
At 11:44 PM 3/17/2007 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi Bob,
>
>I have your book but am looking for proper use of a rheostat to dim the
>annuciators on a KLN 90-B. I have ground plus the annunciator light
>wires. I am having a brain dump on this one. Any suggestions??
>
>Thanks, Mark
A simple series rheostat may not be what you want. Do
you know if the lighting is incandescent lamps or LEDs?
How much current does the lighting input draw? The pinout
data I have for the KLN90 reads like there are two 14v
lamp strings that are hooked in series for 28v and parallel
for 14v systems. A voltage regulating dimmer like
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles//DimmerFabrication.pdf
will always work.
A rheostat's resistance and wattage needs to be sized to
the total load while the voltage regulating dimmer's control
functionality is relatively independent of total load and
needs only sizing for total load. Is the KLN90 the ONLY circuit
you plan to tie onto your dimmer control?
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
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At 10:33 PM 3/17/2007 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>It looks (in the wiring diagram) like the starter contactor diode is
>internal. Do I need to purchase another contactor with the diode across
>the coil or is there a way to add it externally?
The diode can be inside or outside . . . some of my drawings
show it inside because the starter contactor I used to sell
had it built in . . . but you can put one on the outside.
>Re the alternator not charging. This is a new engine with first starts
>so there's no history--hasn't worked from the beginning. I've
>re-checked the wiring and it seems to be connected properly but . . .
>still not showing a charge.
How do you deduce whether or not it's charging? What
kind of instrumentation do you have?
Bob . . .
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Subject: | Re: Dragging certified aircraft screaming and kicking |
into the 21st Century
At 07:26 PM 3/17/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Bob, for those of us who have certified airplanes and want active
>notification of low voltage, EI sells a cheap ($285) voice annunciator
>that will say "Check Bus Voltage" in a soft female voice right into your
>headset if the voltage drops below 13V, without being hooked to anything
>but power. (She'll say 16 other things, too, if hooked up to various
>instruments' alarm outputs). It certainly always gets my attention when I
>chop the power on approach and switch on the landing light and she reminds
>me that I'm now sucking some battery power.
>
>Also there may be some people who think the annual battery condition test
>is a complicated process that requires construction of devices with light
>bulbs and timers and things.
<snip>
>I also keep in my flight bag a handheld comm radio with a rechargeable
>battery pack and a separate alkaline battery pack.
>
>Zeftronics makes a line of modern voltage regulators to replace the
>horrible Delco Remy mechanical gizmo from the 60's with a nice device that
>features OV and LV lights as well as Overvoltage protection using an
>external relay.
>
>Those are just some of the things I have discovered that hopefully some of
>the certified people on this list might find useful.
As you've illustrated, there are several ways
to skin this cat . . . have a plan-b. It does
take some consideration and PERIODIC verification
but there are a variety of ways to do it. Thanks
for sharing this with us!
Bob . . .
Message 7
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Bob
Help. I can't seem to get a quaility crimp on B and C electrics' BNC male connectors.
I have followed your instructions using the RCT crimping tool also from
B and C. I used the .213 hex die. I have crimped twice and both times I have
come up with a crimped ferrule that has a set of flanges on two sides and some
of the flats have a dimple in them. I made sure the round end of the die is facing
toward the coax cable. I know the end product is not correct. Could the
tool be out of calabration? This is the first time the tool has ever been used.
I'am sure it's operator error. What am I to do?
Thanks
Jonsey
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101464#101464
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: BNC connector |
At 01:27 PM 3/18/2007 -0700, you wrote:
><djones@northboone.net>
>
>Bob
>
>Help. I can't seem to get a quaility crimp on B and C electrics' BNC male
>connectors. I have followed your instructions using the RCT crimping tool
>also from B and C. I used the .213 hex die. I have crimped twice and both
>times I have come up with a crimped ferrule that has a set of flanges on
>two sides and some of the flats have a dimple in them. I made sure the
>round end of the die is facing toward the coax cable. I know the end
>product is not correct. Could the tool be out of calabration? This is the
>first time the tool has ever been used. I'am sure it's operator error.
>What am I to do?
Hmmmm . . . I have encountered tools where the ".213" die
was undersized . . . also other brands of connectors that
were oversized and would produce the effects you've cited.
I used to fit check batches of tools I sold with connectors
I sold so as to avoid this situation but I can't speak for
B&C's policies on this. Does your tool have a "jam release"
lever? If so, don't close the tool down all the way. In fact,
when I had a bunch of slightly mis-matched connectors to install
I found combination of shim stock pieces that I could close the
tool down on to set the crimp and then use the jam-release to
get the connector out. If you had a lot of connectors to install,
it might be worth the trouble to get a better match but I think
I'd just explore the incomplete-closure approach and truck on.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
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Subject: | An extra credit quiz . . . |
A writer for Kitplanes attended my seminar in Grass
Valley, CA last year and promised to do an aricle about
the 'Connection and my seminars. The article appeared
in the April issue and I just downloaded a copy. I'd
offered to proof it for him last year but he seemed to
dismiss the value for doing so. Anyhow, Kitplanes readers
here on the List are invited to do a critical review of
the article and submit their findings here.
For the most part the article was fair and accurate but it does
have a few toe-snaggers in it.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 10
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>
>Bob,
>It looks (in the wiring diagram) like the starter contactor diode is
>internal. Do I need to purchase another contactor with the diode
across
>the coil or is there a way to add it externally?
The diode can be inside or outside . . . some of my drawings
show it inside because the starter contactor I used to sell
had it built in . . . but you can put one on the outside.
Is it possible to put a diode on the outside of a three connector relay?
>Re the alternator not charging. This is a new engine with first starts
>so there's no history--hasn't worked from the beginning. I've
>re-checked the wiring and it seems to be connected properly but . . .
>still not showing a charge.
How do you deduce whether or not it's charging? What
kind of instrumentation do you have?
I'm using the Grand Rapids Tech EIS. The window where "Voltage" is
displayed showed ~ 10.8 volts. Rotax manual indicates a permanent
output of 13.5 v.
Additionally, the Dynon EFIS would not come on with the Master, but it
did come on with the EBus switched on (with the master also on). (When
testing during installation I noted previously the Dynon will come on
with the master if the battery is fully charged. When battery is not
fully charged the Master does not bring it on line but the EBus will.)
Frank
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: How reliable is reliable |
> Z-13/8 is an exceedingly robust system that should
> handle everything you or I would want to do at
> reliability levels that far exceed those of the
> certified ships that we're ALREADY using do do the
> same kinds of flights.
>
> Now, Z-12 and Z-14 have some appeal but I'd recommend
> Z-12 only as an upgrade to an existing Z-11 or spam-can
> clone and Z-14 for ships like a Lancair IVP with full-up
> dual IFR panels.
>
> Obviously, if you have the $time$ and don't mind the
> weight, you can pile on as many backups to backups that
> suits your worry levels . . . but I'll suggest that
> Z-13/8 is the value leader in return for reliability
> with the lowest investment in $time$ and loss of
> payload.
>
> It would cost more dollars and talented manpower than
> you or I are willing to expend to put numbers on the
> relative reliability of Z-13/8 vs Z-14 for the various
> operating scenarios. But it's my considered judgement
> that Z-14 is overkill for most of the OBAM aircraft
> under construction.
That sounds entirely reasonable. It just seems that by removing the z-13/20 drawing
(which I have no problem with), IF the airplane meets the kind of requirements
and worry levels to warrent a backup 20 amp alternator, it sounds like
you suggest z-14 over z-12 for new ships?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101525#101525
Message 12
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It does have the jamb release. I will try that approach and let you know how
it worked.
Thanks Again
Jonsey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 4:25 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: BNC connector
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 01:27 PM 3/18/2007 -0700, you wrote:
><djones@northboone.net>
>
>Bob
>
>Help. I can't seem to get a quaility crimp on B and C electrics' BNC male
>connectors. I have followed your instructions using the RCT crimping tool
>also from B and C. I used the .213 hex die. I have crimped twice and both
>times I have come up with a crimped ferrule that has a set of flanges on
>two sides and some of the flats have a dimple in them. I made sure the
>round end of the die is facing toward the coax cable. I know the end
>product is not correct. Could the tool be out of calabration? This is the
>first time the tool has ever been used. I'am sure it's operator error.
>What am I to do?
Hmmmm . . . I have encountered tools where the ".213" die
was undersized . . . also other brands of connectors that
were oversized and would produce the effects you've cited.
I used to fit check batches of tools I sold with connectors
I sold so as to avoid this situation but I can't speak for
B&C's policies on this. Does your tool have a "jam release"
lever? If so, don't close the tool down all the way. In fact,
when I had a bunch of slightly mis-matched connectors to install
I found combination of shim stock pieces that I could close the
tool down on to set the crimp and then use the jam-release to
get the connector out. If you had a lot of connectors to install,
it might be worth the trouble to get a better match but I think
I'd just explore the incomplete-closure approach and truck on.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: How reliable is reliable |
At 06:20 PM 3/18/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>
>
> > Z-13/8 is an exceedingly robust system that should
> > handle everything you or I would want to do at
> > reliability levels that far exceed those of the
> > certified ships that we're ALREADY using do do the
> > same kinds of flights.
> >
> > Now, Z-12 and Z-14 have some appeal but I'd recommend
> > Z-12 only as an upgrade to an existing Z-11 or spam-can
> > clone and Z-14 for ships like a Lancair IVP with full-up
> > dual IFR panels.
> >
> > Obviously, if you have the $time$ and don't mind the
> > weight, you can pile on as many backups to backups that
> > suits your worry levels . . . but I'll suggest that
> > Z-13/8 is the value leader in return for reliability
> > with the lowest investment in $time$ and loss of
> > payload.
> >
> > It would cost more dollars and talented manpower than
> > you or I are willing to expend to put numbers on the
> > relative reliability of Z-13/8 vs Z-14 for the various
> > operating scenarios. But it's my considered judgement
> > that Z-14 is overkill for most of the OBAM aircraft
> > under construction.
>
>
>That sounds entirely reasonable. It just seems that by removing the
>z-13/20 drawing (which I have no problem with), IF the airplane meets the
>kind of requirements and worry levels to warrent a backup 20 amp
>alternator, it sounds like you suggest z-14 over z-12 for new ships?
Depends on the airplane and the missions. If you're
building a long-legged, $200,000 cross country rocket
and you intend to spend hours crossing weather fronts,
then something like Z-14 (along with a second pilot
in the right seat) is the uptown way to go.
If you have an as-purchased airplane wired ah-la C172/
A-36 and you'd like to go all-electric with minimal
changes to the system, then Z-12 is an option to consider.
If you're starting from scratch and intend to use your
airplane like 95% of your brothers use their airplanes,
then I'm betting that Z-13/8 has a high probability of
meeting your mission requirements at a minimum of
cost and weight.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 14
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I tried to no avail. The first stop that caused the ferrule to lock into
place caused it to flange and dimple. I will call Bill tomorrow and see if
he has an explanation.
Jonsey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 4:25 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: BNC connector
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 01:27 PM 3/18/2007 -0700, you wrote:
><djones@northboone.net>
>
>Bob
>
>Help. I can't seem to get a quaility crimp on B and C electrics' BNC male
>connectors. I have followed your instructions using the RCT crimping tool
>also from B and C. I used the .213 hex die. I have crimped twice and both
>times I have come up with a crimped ferrule that has a set of flanges on
>two sides and some of the flats have a dimple in them. I made sure the
>round end of the die is facing toward the coax cable. I know the end
>product is not correct. Could the tool be out of calabration? This is the
>first time the tool has ever been used. I'am sure it's operator error.
>What am I to do?
Hmmmm . . . I have encountered tools where the ".213" die
was undersized . . . also other brands of connectors that
were oversized and would produce the effects you've cited.
I used to fit check batches of tools I sold with connectors
I sold so as to avoid this situation but I can't speak for
B&C's policies on this. Does your tool have a "jam release"
lever? If so, don't close the tool down all the way. In fact,
when I had a bunch of slightly mis-matched connectors to install
I found combination of shim stock pieces that I could close the
tool down on to set the crimp and then use the jam-release to
get the connector out. If you had a lot of connectors to install,
it might be worth the trouble to get a better match but I think
I'd just explore the incomplete-closure approach and truck on.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 15
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Subject: | Will steel affect antenna operation? |
We are doing battle with filling pinholes and small sand marks in Europa
fiberglass fuse. After trying several methods, Dolphin Glaze thick and
thin, Expancel and Aeropoxy (plastic micro) and Q-Cel and Aeropoxy (glass
micro), I tried JB Weld Kwik.
Seems the JB Weld Kwik is the hands down winner. It is very thick (thicker
than JB Weld) and very sticky. Can squeegee it in place with a razor
blade, and get off 99% and it fills everything and does not shrink or
allow trapped air to force it into a pimple. Sets up in 4 minutes, full
cured pretty hard.
JB Kwik uses steel as a filler. I don't think it is conductive. I tried
putting a magnet on cured sample and tubes and it does not appear to be
conductive.
I will have a Com, a Nav/Com and a Transponder Antenna in the fuse and
rudder.
Think there is a chance that JB Kwik filling small pinholes and very fine
scratches, and lets say some areas with one or 2 ten/thousands" skim on it
will degrade antenna performance to the point that I should not consider
using it?
Thanking in advance
Ron Parigoris
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Will steel affect antenna operation? |
My WAG is that the amount/coverage of JB Weld left on the skin will not
have any effect on antenna performance.
I do, however, wonder about your problems with using epoxy for filling
pinholes. I know the EZ builders have had good success filling everything
with micro, sanding to 36 grit contour, and then using pure resin to fill
pinholes and sanding scratches - squeegee'ed on in multiple coats without
sanding between. I could imagine that cabosil might be used used to make
the resin less runny, which might help the resin fill better.
Cory Bird's description of the process is here:
http://www.sportsmanpilot.com/AL/articles/spr2003/Spring2003.htm
"Next came what Cory calls a resin wipe. After going over the surfaces
with 36 grit sandpaper he spread on a coat of pure resin, then immediately
began squeegeeing it all off. With a little time for cure between
applications, this process was repeated five times, leaving just a film of
resin maybe two or three thousandths thick, filling every 36 grit scratch
and all the pin holes. That was followed by wet sanding with 150 grit,
then a coat of DP-48 epoxy primer and a guide coat of some color - just
enough to see when
it is sanded off."
Matt-
>
> We are doing battle with filling pinholes and small sand marks in Europa
> fiberglass fuse. After trying several methods, Dolphin Glaze thick and
> thin, Expancel and Aeropoxy (plastic micro) and Q-Cel and Aeropoxy (glass
> micro), I tried JB Weld Kwik.
>
> Seems the JB Weld Kwik is the hands down winner. It is very thick (thicker
> than JB Weld) and very sticky. Can squeegee it in place with a razor
> blade, and get off 99% and it fills everything and does not shrink or
> allow trapped air to force it into a pimple. Sets up in 4 minutes, full
> cured pretty hard.
>
> JB Kwik uses steel as a filler. I don't think it is conductive. I tried
> putting a magnet on cured sample and tubes and it does not appear to be
> conductive.
>
> I will have a Com, a Nav/Com and a Transponder Antenna in the fuse and
> rudder.
>
> Think there is a chance that JB Kwik filling small pinholes and very fine
> scratches, and lets say some areas with one or 2 ten/thousands" skim on it
> will degrade antenna performance to the point that I should not consider
> using it?
>
> Thanking in advance
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
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