Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:39 AM - Re: BNC connector (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 05:41 AM - Re: Will steel affect antenna operation? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 07:16 AM - Re: Popped CB (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 09:24 AM - Extra credit quiz (Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com)
5. 10:33 AM - Re: Popped CB (Bob White)
6. 07:55 PM - Re: Popped CB ()
7. 09:55 PM - Fuel guage non-coax to BNC (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
8. 10:53 PM - OV protection (Sam Marlow)
9. 11:30 PM - Re: BNC connector (Dennis Jones)
Message 1
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At 10:52 PM 3/18/2007 -0500, you wrote:
><djones@northboone.net>
>
>I tried to no avail. The first stop that caused the ferrule to lock into
>place caused it to flange and dimple. I will call Bill tomorrow and see if
>he has an explanation.
>
>Jonsey
Very well. The tool doesn't match the connectors. It's time
to implement plan-C.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Will steel affect antenna operation? |
At 04:21 AM 3/19/2007 +0000, you wrote:
>
>We are doing battle with filling pinholes and small sand marks in Europa
>fiberglass fuse. After trying several methods, Dolphin Glaze thick and
>thin, Expancel and Aeropoxy (plastic micro) and Q-Cel and Aeropoxy (glass
>micro), I tried JB Weld Kwik.
>
>Seems the JB Weld Kwik is the hands down winner. It is very thick (thicker
>than JB Weld) and very sticky. Can squeegee it in place with a razor
>blade, and get off 99% and it fills everything and does not shrink or
>allow trapped air to force it into a pimple. Sets up in 4 minutes, full
>cured pretty hard.
>
>JB Kwik uses steel as a filler. I don't think it is conductive. I tried
>putting a magnet on cured sample and tubes and it does not appear to be
>conductive.
>
>I will have a Com, a Nav/Com and a Transponder Antenna in the fuse and
>rudder.
>
>Think there is a chance that JB Kwik filling small pinholes and very fine
>scratches, and lets say some areas with one or 2 ten/thousands" skim on it
>will degrade antenna performance to the point that I should not consider
>using it?
The filler will have no effect upon your embedded atennas.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 3
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>
> How do you deduce whether or not it's charging? What
> kind of instrumentation do you have?
>
>I'm using the Grand Rapids Tech EIS. The window where "Voltage" is
>displayed showed ~ 10.8 volts. Rotax manual indicates a permanent
>output of 13.5 v.
>Additionally, the Dynon EFIS would not come on with the Master, but it
>did come on with the EBus switched on (with the master also on). (When
>testing during installation I noted previously the Dynon will come on
>with the master if the battery is fully charged. When battery is not
>fully charged the Master does not bring it on line but the EBus will.)
Okay, you need to put a voltmeter on the AC input wires to the
regulator with the engine running (yellow) and see what voltage
you get there at moderate RPMs (don't need to run up to full
throttle . . . just see that here's a substantial voltage there
- 20 volts or more).
Do I presume correctly that you're wired per the latest verstion
of Z-16? Is the relay closing (hear it 'click') when you move
the master switch to full up position? You can do this while the
engine is not running so you can listen.
If the regulator is still the same version I looked at some years
ago, it depends on a GOOD ground between regulator case and
your firewall ground bolt.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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Subject: | Extra credit quiz |
I was glad to see anything promoting the Aeroelectric connection, but f
ound
the article to have very limited information. What really bugged me wa
s
that the pictures of connectors were for ones that are NOT recommended.
To
be fair, this was pointed out in the caption, but how about showing peo
ple
what the good ones look like instead of leaving people guessing?
Erich Weaver
Message 5
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On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 19:49:39 -0400
<frank.phyllis@mindspring.com> wrote:
<snip>
>
> The diode can be inside or outside . . . some of my drawings
> show it inside because the starter contactor I used to sell
> had it built in . . . but you can put one on the outside.
>
> Is it possible to put a diode on the outside of a three connector relay?
>
>
<snip>
> Frank
>
Hi Frank,
As best I can tell, this question wasn't addressed so I will take the
liberty of replying.
Yes. One side of the coil is connected internally to the contact that
goes to the battery, and the other side of the coil is grounded by a
switch on the panel. To put the diode across the coil, connect the
cathode to the battery contact and the anode on the coil terminal.
small sketch attached.
Bob W.
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
First Flight: 11/23/2006 7:50AM - 3.8 Hours Total Time
Cables for your rotary installation - http://www.roblinphoto.com/shop/
Message 6
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Thanks Bob
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
White
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Popped CB
On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 19:49:39 -0400
<frank.phyllis@mindspring.com> wrote:
<snip>
>
> The diode can be inside or outside . . . some of my drawings
> show it inside because the starter contactor I used to sell
> had it built in . . . but you can put one on the outside.
>
> Is it possible to put a diode on the outside of a three connector
relay?
>
>
<snip>
> Frank
>
Hi Frank,
As best I can tell, this question wasn't addressed so I will take the
liberty of replying.
Yes. One side of the coil is connected internally to the contact that
goes to the battery, and the other side of the coil is grounded by a
switch on the panel. To put the diode across the coil, connect the
cathode to the battery contact and the anode on the coil terminal.
small sketch attached.
Bob W.
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
First Flight: 11/23/2006 7:50AM - 3.8 Hours Total Time
Cables for your rotary installation - http://www.roblinphoto.com/shop/
Message 7
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Subject: | Fuel guage non-coax to BNC |
It's an Electronics International FL-2CA Gauge Bob. I looked on their
website and they show it but I don't see an install manual available. EI
recommends their own P-300C probes but since this was the gauge Van's
recommended for use with the RV series capacitive senders (large flat plates
mounted vertically on the ribs inside the tanks) I assume there was some
collaboration to ensure things would work. I looked through the install
manual I have and I'm afraid it doesn't say a whole lot. It shows the
pre-wired connector and identifies red, black and white wires which go to
each (right and left) sensor converter cable assembly but doesn't say what
their functions are(I assume they are power, ground and signal). The factory
bundled each of these sets of three wires with a "left" and "right" tag so
you know which is which but, that's all the information they supply.
Each sensor/converter cable assembly has five, individual, single conductor,
unshielded wires that go into what looks to me to be a tiny circuit board
about a half inch square that's covered with black heat-shrink. The three
(red, black and white) wires connect to the gauge harness mentioned above
and the other two wires connect to the senders in the tank (or the EI P-300
probe). I assume that if the wires from the tank to the converter cable CCA
needed to be shielded then EI would have provided them that way. I think
Van's just chose a BNC connection because it is very easy to drill a small
hole in the fuel tank and pro-seal the connector in (no mess, no fuss, no
leaking fuel, assuming the dielectric in the female BNC is resistant to
attack from gasoline). And the BNC is a nice positive connection well
protected from outside contamination. So... I just need to figure how mate
one of the tank sensor wires to what would be the shield crimp on a BNC male
connector. Thanks for the help.
Dean
_________________________ Original Message _______________________________
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Non coax to BNC connector.
>
>Have an Electronics International Capacitive Fuel Gauge for Van's
>capacitive senders in my RV-6 fuel tanks.......
>
> Do you know where I can download the installation manual
> for your system . . . or do you have it in .pdf form that
> you can e-mail to me?
>
> Bob . . .
Message 8
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I know there's been a lot of discussion about OV protection, but I'm
wondering if anyone has come up with OV protection for the Van's
internal regulated alternator? I'm hesitant to connect my expensive
panel with out it.
Thanks,
Sam Marlow
Message 9
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Bob
I talked to B and C today. They did a test drive of the connectors and the
same tool. He adjusted the crimping pressure however he still ended up with
the flanges. He called them a slight flange. So I guess I need to find a
different coupler that will fit with the tool. Any suggestions?
Jonsey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 7:38 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: BNC connector
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 10:52 PM 3/18/2007 -0500, you wrote:
><djones@northboone.net>
>
>I tried to no avail. The first stop that caused the ferrule to lock into
>place caused it to flange and dimple. I will call Bill tomorrow and see if
>he has an explanation.
>
>Jonsey
Very well. The tool doesn't match the connectors. It's time
to implement plan-C.
Bob . . .
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