Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:18 AM - Re: XLR connectors (jetboy)
2. 06:33 AM - Re: What did I do wrong? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 06:36 AM - CD version 10.1 is posted (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 07:00 AM - Re: What did I do wrong? (Eric M. Jones)
5. 08:41 AM - Re: What did I do wrong? (Matt Prather)
6. 12:15 PM - ANR Headset Power without batteries - findings (Larry James)
7. 06:44 PM - Wire size dilemma (Alan K. Adamson)
8. 07:01 PM - Re:Extra credit quiz (Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com)
9. 08:23 PM - Re: Wire size dilemma (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 08:23 PM - Re: Wire size dilemma (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 08:25 PM - Re: Re:Extra credit quiz (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 08:28 PM - Out of town for a couple of days (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 09:11 PM - Re: SD8 Connection queries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 11:28 PM - Re: SD8 Connection queries (Stephen Reynolds)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: XLR connectors |
Yes the XLR connector would be fine. There is also a 4 pin version used in the
video industry extensively for 12V DC power on camera / recorder equipment. The
pins are slightlly smaller dia. than the more common 3 pin audio connector,
so the audio one may in fact have better current capability. both versions are
very robust, cameramen and sound techs do not appreciate loosing their footage
- as you will using the most horrid connector of all - the cigar lighter plug.
these things are more likely to start a fire than the lighter itself - no disrespect
to those that use them- please be wary of leaving them unattended and
dont use for mission critical applications. A friend found the one in his Cherokee
was not enough for all his gadgets so bought a 4 outlet box and slung it
up behind the panel.... thereafter had to wiggle the plugs about to keep all
his stuff online. It would be safer to cut all the plugs off and use a wire joiner
- but can't do that in a cert. A/C
Ralph
--------
Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102263#102263
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: What did I do wrong? |
At 10:23 PM 3/21/2007 -0800, you wrote:
>I am installing a flexible USB 5v, 50ma LED used on computers for
>cockpit/map light. To figure out which contacts light the LED, I soldered
>a 5.1v , 1 watt, Zener diode on to the positive lead of my power supply
>and went probing the contacts. The two outside contacts were the ones
>powering the LED. But the LED promptly fried.
>
>Obviously there's more to this than I thought. What do I need to do to
>here to keep my LED lights from burning up?
>
>Thanks,
>John
adding a 5v zener in series with your powersupply
only DROPS the supply voltage by 5v. Assuming a 12v
supply, this leaves you 7v. Try hooking your lamp up
with a series RESISTOR instead. Put a mulitmeter in
series with your supply and adjust the resistor to get
30 milliamps of flow when pwered up. This is the operating
point for most LEDs. White LEDs need about 4 volts to work
so the 1v drop at .03 amps suggests a 33 ohm resistor
inside the fixture. Applying 7 volts would have tripled
the current trough the LED and probably induced the failure.
If you don't have a tightly regulated 5v supply to run
the light, then the series resistor is better. Try
200-270 ohms. A 1/2 watt resistor will do.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 3
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| Subject: | CD version 10.1 is posted |
The all inclusive data CD I've been offering on my
website has been updated to version 10.1
I've posted it at:
http://aeroelectric.com/CD
Download the .zip file and unzip it to a CD or some
dedicated directory on your hard drive. It's about
400M so expect 7-15 minutes depending on your service.
Feel free to distribute this CD amongst your friends
if they have an interest.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: What did I do wrong? |
> I am installing a flexible USB 5v, 50ma LED used on computers for cockpit/map
light. To figure out which contacts light the LED, I soldered a 5.1v , 1 watt,
Zener diode on to the positive lead of my power supply and went probing the
contacts. The two outside contacts were the ones powering the LED. But the LED
promptly fried.
>
> Obviously there's more to this than I thought. What do I need to do to here to
keep my LED lights from burning up?
John,
A USB connection is nominally 5VDC current limited initially to 100 ma. So the
LED assembly probably has inside it a current limiting resistor of
R= (5V-Vf)/0.050 (You could assume it is about 47 ohms 1/4W)
Diagnosing how you used the zener would complicate the issue. I suspect your assumption
of how the zener works out needs some rethinking. But if you want to
put this into your airplane on 14V add a series 470 ohm 1.5W resistor and be happy.
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in.
---Leonard Cohen
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102291#102291
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: What did I do wrong? |
Hey John,
If I understand what you described, the zener would have only been capable
of reducing the voltage seen by 5V. In other words, if the supply were
set at 20V, the LED would see 15V... If the supply makes 12V, the LED
sees 7V, etc.
A way to make the LED see 5V is to connect the zener to ground, and then
an appropriate resistor, and then to the positive lead of the power
supply. Probe the LED from the node between the zener and the resistor.
Matt-
> I am installing a flexible USB 5v, 50ma LED used on computers for
> cockpit/map light. To figure out which contacts light the LED, I soldered
> a 5.1v , 1 watt, Zener diode on to the positive lead of my power supply
> and went probing the contacts. The two outside contacts were the ones
> powering the LED. But the LED promptly fried.
>
> Obviously there's more to this than I thought. What do I need to do to
> here to keep my LED lights from burning up?
>
> Thanks,
> John
Message 6
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| Subject: | ANR Headset Power without batteries - findings |
Here is what I am learning on this subject:
1) My current Telex 50D headsets run on 8 - 28 vdc.
Changing the cord / plugs will void the warranty.
2) The ANR headsets in my Flightsuits helmet are supplied
by Headsets Inc. and run on 9 vdc.
3) The plug / connector that Headsets Inc. uses are
Switchraft numbers 760 and 712A.
4) There does not seem to be any movement towards a single
connector standard. The person at Telex indicated that their unit in this
configuration was extremely low volume and there was no interest in putting
any effort into improving it or talking with anyone about standardizing.
5) I flew again yesterday using my wife's Bose headset and
the ear cups don't fit my (big??) ears that well. I don't want to convert
back to Bose for myself (she continues to like them a lot).
6) This is what I am going to do:
a. Install Headsets Inc. 9 vdc converter / power connector in the
front seat of our Decathlon and both seats of the Rocket.
b. Find a source to custom make very nice 3-plug cables; standard mic,
standard headset, and the 760 power plugs. I'm looking for gold plated plug
contacts, molded plug bodies, and a nicely molded 3-way "Y" where the 3
breakout. I'll buy a few of these and retrofit them to whatever I like.
c. Retrofit this new cable to my Telex headsets (voiding the
warranty).
d. Retrofit this new cable to my helmet.
e. Keep a couple of extra of these cables for future use.
f. Headsets Inc. makes an auxiliary 9 vdc Battery Pack. I'll use
this whenever I want to use any of "my" headsets in another aircraft.
This is the most elegant solution I've been able to come up with ... And I'm
open to suggestions.
Larry E. James
Bellevue, WA
Super Decathlon
Rocket (fuselage / systems)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Wire size dilemma |
Ok, so I'm planning on a dual alt/batt 24v setup for a Lancair legacy.
Batteries will be mounted behind the seats, a single 24v Concorde, and a
backup B&C. I'm stuck on wire sizes to accommodate my goals. Wonder if
anyone would care to comment. I had planned to run #2 between the starter
contactor and the starter (both will be on the firewall). Then #4 between
the Main alternator (a 100A 24v version) the starter contactor and the main
batt contactor (which will be at the batteries about 5ft behind the
firewall). Because the standby alternator is only 20A and a backup, was
going to run #8 for it thru the firewall, to the battery contact/cross tie.
Mine you, the cross tie will be "strap" connected so it won't actually be
wire there.
But after seeing a few larger airplanes, I started to re-think this plan.
Perhaps I should use #2 for everything on the Main battery side, and stay
either with #8 or go to #6 or #4 on the standby side.
Trying to avoid losses over length, etc. I've looked thru everything I can
find on Bob's site, but most of them are for 60A alternators on the main
side and 12v, so I'm really not sure what to do.
Any takers?
To help with a little more placement info. The firewall will have the
starter contactor only, the batteries are about 5-7 (wire feet) behind the
firewall, the battery and cross tie contactors will be at the batteries.
Thanks in advance,
Alan
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re:Extra credit quiz |
Bob wrote: "Hmmmm . . . here's a chance to redeem yourself. How
accurate was he with respect to quotation of mile
stones in voltage readings?"
Well that narrows it down quite a bit, ensuring complete and immediate
public humiliation upon any further displays of my electrical ineptness
: )
Then again, I didnt have far to go to reach that state anyway, so for t
he
purposes of List entertainment, I will go forward with my second answer
to
the quiz.
The article states "A fully charged, healthy battery will show 12.5 vol
tes,
and a fully discharged battery will show 10.5 volts." Fair enough. B
ut
shortly thereafter, it goes on to state: "Where do you want to set you
low
voltage warning? How about 13.9 volts, which indicates hat the alterna
tor
isnt charging and you're running off the stored battery charge."
Setting the warning at 13.9 volts seems a tad high to me - I would expe
ct
battery-only operations to exhibit a voltage significantly less than th
is,
especially if there was any load at all. Heck, voltage may well drop t
o
below this value just from going through the bridge rectifier to my e-b
us.
How about a setting more like 13.0 volts or so?
Regardless of quiz results, I am so pleased to have been able to do my
electrical wiring myself. I pretty much stuck with the Z-13/8 schematic
,
because time after time I have seen people overthinking it with
"improvements" that just plain arent. Plus, even if I'm issing the nua
nces
of breakers vs. current limiters, Bob has my rear covered. Thanks for t
he
'Connection and this list Bob.
Erich Weaver
This e-mail and any attachments are confidential. If you receive this
message in error or are not the intended recipient, you should not
retain, distribute, disclose or use any of this information and you
should destroy the e-mail and any attachments or copies.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Wire size dilemma |
At 09:42 PM 3/22/2007 -0400, you wrote:
><aadamson@highrf.com>
>
>Ok, so I'm planning on a dual alt/batt 24v setup for a Lancair legacy.
>Batteries will be mounted behind the seats, a single 24v Concorde, and a
>backup B&C. I'm stuck on wire sizes to accommodate my goals. Wonder if
>anyone would care to comment. I had planned to run #2 between the starter
>contactor and the starter (both will be on the firewall). Then #4 between
>the Main alternator (a 100A 24v version) the starter contactor and the main
>batt contactor (which will be at the batteries about 5ft behind the
>firewall). Because the standby alternator is only 20A and a backup, was
>going to run #8 for it thru the firewall, to the battery contact/cross tie.
>Mine you, the cross tie will be "strap" connected so it won't actually be
>wire there.
>
>But after seeing a few larger airplanes, I started to re-think this plan.
>Perhaps I should use #2 for everything on the Main battery side, and stay
>either with #8 or go to #6 or #4 on the standby side.
>
>Trying to avoid losses over length, etc. I've looked thru everything I can
>find on Bob's site, but most of them are for 60A alternators on the main
>side and 12v, so I'm really not sure what to do.
>
>Any takers?
>
>To help with a little more placement info. The firewall will have the
>starter contactor only, the batteries are about 5-7 (wire feet) behind the
>firewall, the battery and cross tie contactors will be at the batteries.
I'd run a 2AWG ground for both batteries. Put crosstie contactor on
firewall to use as fwd distribution point for the two systems. Run 2AWG for
all fat wires on the main battery(+) side and 4AWG for fat wires on the
auxiliary
battery(+) side.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wire size dilemma |
At 09:42 PM 3/22/2007 -0400, you wrote:
><aadamson@highrf.com>
>
>Ok, so I'm planning on a dual alt/batt 24v setup for a Lancair legacy.
>Batteries will be mounted behind the seats, a single 24v Concorde, and a
>backup B&C. I'm stuck on wire sizes to accommodate my goals. Wonder if
>anyone would care to comment. I had planned to run #2 between the starter
>contactor and the starter (both will be on the firewall). Then #4 between
>the Main alternator (a 100A 24v version) the starter contactor and the main
>batt contactor (which will be at the batteries about 5ft behind the
>firewall). Because the standby alternator is only 20A and a backup, was
>going to run #8 for it thru the firewall, to the battery contact/cross tie.
>Mine you, the cross tie will be "strap" connected so it won't actually be
>wire there.
>
>But after seeing a few larger airplanes, I started to re-think this plan.
>Perhaps I should use #2 for everything on the Main battery side, and stay
>either with #8 or go to #6 or #4 on the standby side.
>
>Trying to avoid losses over length, etc. I've looked thru everything I can
>find on Bob's site, but most of them are for 60A alternators on the main
>side and 12v, so I'm really not sure what to do.
>
>Any takers?
>
>To help with a little more placement info. The firewall will have the
>starter contactor only, the batteries are about 5-7 (wire feet) behind the
>firewall, the battery and cross tie contactors will be at the batteries.
I'd run a 2AWG ground for both batteries. Put crosstie contactor on
firewall to use as fwd distribution point for the two systems. Run 2AWG for
all fat wires on the main battery(+) side and 4AWG for fat wires on the
auxiliary
battery(+) side.
P.S. Use welding cable for jumpers from battery(-) terminals to common
gnd and battery(+) terminals to their respective contactors. Use what ever
style wire you like for other conductors.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re:Extra credit quiz |
At 10:00 PM 3/22/2007 -0400, you wrote:
>Bob wrote: "Hmmmm . . . here's a chance to redeem yourself. How
>accurate was he with respect to quotation of mile
>stones in voltage readings?"
>
>Well that narrows it down quite a bit, ensuring complete and immediate
>public humiliation upon any further displays of my electrical ineptness : )
>
>Then again, I didnt have far to go to reach that state anyway, so for the
>purposes of List entertainment, I will go forward with my second answer to
>the quiz.
>
>The article states "A fully charged, healthy battery will show 12.5
>voltes, and a fully discharged battery will show 10.5 volts." Fair
>enough. But shortly thereafter, it goes on to state: "Where do you want
>to set you low voltage warning? How about 13.9 volts, which indicates hat
>the alternator isnt charging and you're running off the stored battery charge."
>
>Setting the warning at 13.9 volts seems a tad high to me - I would expect
>battery-only operations to exhibit a voltage significantly less than this,
>especially if there was any load at all. Heck, voltage may well drop to
>below this value just from going through the bridge rectifier to my
>e-bus. How about a setting more like 13.0 volts or so?
BINGO! You win the six pac . . .
>Regardless of quiz results, I am so pleased to have been able to do my
>electrical wiring myself. I pretty much stuck with the Z-13/8 schematic,
>because time after time I have seen people overthinking it with
>"improvements" that just plain arent. Plus, even if I'm issing the
>nuances of breakers vs. current limiters, Bob has my rear covered. Thanks
>for the 'Connection and this list Bob.
You're most welcome. Couldn't do it if it wasn't fun.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 12
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| Subject: | Out of town for a couple of days |
Dr. Dee and I are climbing aboard the heavy iron bird for
the Winterville, North Carolina seminar next Saturday and
Sunday. We'll be off line until Tuesday. If anyone wants
to attend this presentation, you can just show up. You don't
need a reservation. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/seminars/Winterville.html
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: SD8 Connection queries |
At 09:21 PM 3/21/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>I have a SD8 standby alternator on my RV7 & am considering the various
>options for connecting it into the aircraft wiring. I have been looking at
>Bobs Z-8 diagram which uses an essential bus & cross tie. I would rather
>not have the essential bus & just have a way of connecting the both the
>SD8 & the battery into the main bus should the battery contactor fail as I
>see this as a single point of failure. Has anyone done something similar
>or is there another wiring diagram out there that shows another way of
>doing this.
What's the heartburn with Z-13/8? What failure do you
anticipate that the architecture won't cover?
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: SD8 Connection queries |
I wanted to get away from using the essential bus. If you were just going to
use a common bus do you think it would be practical to have the SD8 & the
battery feeding this via some sort of cross tie / switch. In the event of a
alternator & main contactor failure you would then be able to supply the bus
from a combination of the SD8 & the battery. In hindsight the chance of 2
components failing at the same time is statistically irrelevant, still I am
planning some long flights so want the best system can devise.
Regards
Stephen
RV7 N570Z
wiring - quelle suprise
On 22/03/07, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckollsr@cox.net> wrote:
>
> nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
> At 09:21 PM 3/21/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>
> >I have a SD8 standby alternator on my RV7 & am considering the various
> >options for connecting it into the aircraft wiring. I have been looking
> at
> >Bobs Z-8 diagram which uses an essential bus & cross tie. I would rather
> >not have the essential bus & just have a way of connecting the both the
> >SD8 & the battery into the main bus should the battery contactor fail as
> I
> >see this as a single point of failure. Has anyone done something similar
> >or is there another wiring diagram out there that shows another way of
> >doing this.
>
> What's the heartburn with Z-13/8? What failure do you
> anticipate that the architecture won't cover?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------
> ( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
> ( what ever you do must be exercised )
> ( EVERY day . . . )
> ( R. L. Nuckolls III )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
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