Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:52 AM - Re: Re: Capacitors for Whelen strobe power supply (Ken)
2. 06:42 AM - Re: [Probable SPAM] Good Deal on Power Guard ()
3. 07:07 AM - Earth return (JOHN TIPTON)
4. 07:48 AM - Re: Earth return (George, Neal E Capt MIL USAF 605TES/TSI)
5. 09:07 AM - Current Sensor Placement (Alex)
6. 11:40 AM - Re: Current Sensor Placement (Glaeser, Dennis A)
7. 02:00 PM - Double row breaker panel (Leo Holler)
8. 04:46 PM - Re: Low Voltage Warning/Aux Battery Management Module (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 04:59 PM - Re: Re: Capacitors for Whelen strobe power supply (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 05:03 PM - Re: Double row breaker panel (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 06:44 PM - Re: Double row breaker panel (Jim Baker)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: re: Capacitors for Whelen strobe power supply |
Careful guys. There is more to this.
For proper performance and decent life you need "photoflash" capacitors
specifically designed for fast high current discharge.
They tend to be more difficult to find.
Ken
James Foerster wrote:
> Dennis,
>
> Digikey catalog lists 12 different capacitors, 9 of which are in
> stock, which would work for you if they fit mechanically. These are
> all 350v at 390UF units. You can use anything rated 300 volts or
> better, and the 400UF is rather approximate, as the electrolytics are
> rated + and - 20%. It seems that 390 UF is now commonly used. Prices
> run from the $5 to $7 range. I will try to send you the results of
> the search on the Digikey site privately. Below are 390UF at 350v units:
>
> Diameter(mm) Length(mm)
> P11920-ND 25 40
> P11921-ND 30 30
> P11790-ND 25 45
> P11791-ND 30 30
>
> There are others, but mainly the ratings differ for service life
> at rated temperature. The first two are 3000 hr at 85 degrees C, the
> next two are 2000 hr at 105 degrees C.
>
> Search for these part numbers on the Digikey site, and they will lead
> you to all the information.
>
> Jim Foerster J400 wiring-veerry sloooly
Message 2
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| Subject: | Good Deal on Power Guard |
Looks interesting. How would this interact with Bob's design for a
electrically dependent engine? Does it buy anything over what Bob's
schematic is doing?
Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Speedy11@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 9:46 PM
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: [Probable SPAM] AeroElectric-List: Good Deal on Power
Guard
If anyone is interested, I have a 12V Composite Design Power
Guard (see it at http://www.compositedesigninc.com/Power_Guard.htm) that
I don't need and I'll sell it at 40% off retail with free shipping. If
you want photos send me a note off the list at speedy11 at aol.com. It
is new, unused and never installed.
It doesn't fit my needs but maybe someone on this list can use
it.
Stan Sutterfield
________________________________
AOL.com.
Message 3
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Hi Guys
Can you please confirm that it is good (aircraft) practice to have in
addition to an earth return wire to the main earth 'bus' a local earth
connection, for example, at the wing tip for the navigation and landing
lights.
Best regards - John
Message 4
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John -
Bob has often suggested that simple resistive loads such as lights and
pitot heat are perfect candidates for local airframe grounding - and
that's exactly what I did.
Neal George
RV-7 N8ZG (Contemplating the Cowling)
Z13-8 (Do we ever really finish wiring ?)
--> <jmtipton@btopenworld.com>
Hi Guys
Can you please confirm that it is good (aircraft) practice to have in
addition to an earth return wire to the main earth 'bus' a local earth
connection, for example, at the wing tip for the navigation and landing
lights.
Best regards - John
Message 5
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| Subject: | Current Sensor Placement |
I have a dual alternator / dual battery setup- my question is can I somehow
just use the single hall effect current sensor I have to determine output of
either/or alternator or do I need to get 2 of them and use a toggle? I was
thinking that possibly I could pass both alternator output wires through the
ring and then it would measure all current passing through regardless of
where it was coming from, but I am not sure if it will work this way, or is
there another solution- maybe put the sensor on the single ground cable that
goes to both batteries?
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Current Sensor Placement |
Hall effect sensors work just fine with multiple wires running through
them. The reported current is the total what is running through all of
the wires. In fact, you can loop the same wire through the sensor to
get higher readings. If you want independent readings, you need
independent sensors. Hooking 2 sensors to the same display, or EIS/EFIS
input with a toggle means they have to be calibrated the same (or at
least close enough :-)
Dennis Glaeser
------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From:Alex
I have a dual alternator / dual battery setup- my question is can I
somehow
just use the single hall effect current sensor I have to determine
output of
either/or alternator or do I need to get 2 of them and use a toggle? I
was
thinking that possibly I could pass both alternator output wires through
the
ring and then it would measure all current passing through regardless of
where it was coming from, but I am not sure if it will work this way, or
is
there another solution- maybe put the sensor on the single ground cable
that
goes to both batteries?
Message 7
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| Subject: | Double row breaker panel |
Anyone have experience (or comments) with installing a two-row breaker panel. My
application would fit nice if I could put my main bus over my endurance bus,
using Klixon 7277's or similar (all of the same exterior dimensions) and using
no more than 2.25" to 2.5" total vertical space. The panel would unscrew from
the instrument panel and could be worked on on one's lap. I have plenty of space
for extra wire behind the panel. Am I dreaming or can it be done?
I fully appreciate the benefits of using a fuse panel instead, but this is a certified
ship and soon to be sold. In my area IA's are not very inclined toward
fuses but they are very involved with the sale of an aircraft, thus the use of
breakers.
Thanks for any comments/suggestions.
Leo Holler
leoh@gci.net
PA-22/20
Alaska
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Low Voltage Warning/Aux Battery Management Module |
At 08:12 AM 3/24/2007 -0500, you wrote:
><bbradburry@allvantage.com>
>
>I purchased the board from Bob's site and the components from Digikey. I
>then tried to assemble the module as per the instructions here...
>
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/lvwarn/LVWarn-ABMM.pdf
>
>It looks like a simple board, so I thought that I could do it even with my
>skills??? Well, DUH!!
>
>When I turn on the master, the 3 amp fuse immediately blows! I have
>absolutely no idea how to go about trying to troubleshoot this board.
>
>Can some of you guys give me some leadership here? Please don't talk
>about testers more than a cheap volt/ohm meter and be pretty specific
>about how to use even that..:>)
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
>Bill B
Drop it to me in the mail and I'll trouble shoot
it, fix it and tell you what I found and how I
found it.
I've built a couple hundred of these critters
and can probably find it pretty quick.
On the other hand, if it's blowing fuses, it sounds
like a hard short. Check for solder splashes on the
connector pins. I can't think of any component placement
error that would draw that much current.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: re: Capacitors for Whelen strobe power supply |
At 07:47 AM 3/26/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Careful guys. There is more to this.
>For proper performance and decent life you need "photoflash" capacitors
>specifically designed for fast high current discharge.
>They tend to be more difficult to find.
>Ken
yeah . . . but I've had pretty good luck with plain-vanilla
replacements. The cost is sure right and if you're willing to
replace the first set of bad ones at all, then the idea of putting
a new set in every couple of years is probably not repulsive
either. I never got a report back from the owners that I serviced
with non-specialty caps many moons ago. I presume they offered
satisfactory service for awhile. It would be interesting to
see how long the PV caps last got someone who hangs out
here on the list.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Double row breaker panel |
At 12:56 PM 3/26/2007 -0900, you wrote:
>Anyone have experience (or comments) with installing a two-row breaker
>panel. My application would fit nice if I could put my main bus over my
>endurance bus, using Klixon 7277's or similar (all of the same exterior
>dimensions) and using no more than 2.25" to 2.5" total vertical space. The
>panel would unscrew from the instrument panel and could be worked on on
>one's lap. I have plenty of space for extra wire behind the panel. Am I
>dreaming or can it be done?
>
>I fully appreciate the benefits of using a fuse panel instead, but this is
>a certified ship and soon to be sold. In my area IA's are not very
>inclined toward fuses but they are very involved with the sale of an
>aircraft, thus the use of breakers.
That will work and it's been done. Would they
be more receptive if you had a copy of a 337 where
the fuseblocks were installed on a Grumman Tiger?
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Double row breaker panel |
X-mailer: Pegasus Mail for Windows (4.41)
> >Anyone have experience (or comments) with installing a two-row breaker
> >panel.
> That will work and it's been done. Would they
> be more receptive if you had a copy of a 337 where
> the fuseblocks were installed on a Grumman Tiger?
>
> Bob . . .
My Bellanca Viking has a dual row breaker set-up......ask me
again how easy it is to work on that top row....go ahead, just ask!
If you could make a removable access panel it might work....
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
Elmore City, OK
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