AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Tue 04/03/07


Total Messages Posted: 10



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:35 AM - Zener Diodes (Sam Marlow)
     2. 07:17 AM - Re: Avionics Mounting (D Fritz)
     3. 07:48 AM - Re: Zener Diodes (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
     4. 09:16 AM - Re: Location of electrical shunt (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     5. 03:15 PM - magneto wiring (sarg314)
     6. 04:08 PM - Re: magneto wiring (Matt Prather)
     7. 04:17 PM - Re: magneto wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     8. 07:15 PM - Re: Zener Diodes (Sam Marlow)
     9. 08:10 PM - 12V batteries in series (rtitsworth)
    10. 08:23 PM - 12V batteries in series (BobsV35B@aol.com)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:35:49 AM PST US
    From: Sam Marlow <sam@fr8dog.net>
    Subject: Zener Diodes
    I'm looking to slow down my trim servo for cruise, does anyone have a source for 1N5323 zener diodes, or a better idea? Thanks, Sam Marlow


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:17:23 AM PST US
    From: D Fritz <dfritzj@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Avionics Mounting
    I purchased some extruded bars and associated hardware that seems to work as well as RadioRax for much less. Follow this link for the catalog. I haven't flown yet, but mechanically these look like they'll work quite well, the bars are made so that once you tighten down the mounting screws the aluminum is preloaded and therefore resistant to loosening from vibration. Try this link: http://www.8020.net/PDF/Fractional%20Section%201.pdf Dan --------------------------------- We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love (and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:48:34 AM PST US
    Subject: Zener Diodes
    From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
    Aircraft extras has a speed reducer, IE during slow flight the servos move fast, and during fast flight the servos move slow. I have them installed, but am not flying yet. Dan N289DT _____ From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 9:34 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Zener Diodes I'm looking to slow down my trim servo for cruise, does anyone have a source for 1N5323 zener diodes, or a better idea? Thanks, Sam Marlow


    Message 4


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    Time: 09:16:04 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Location of electrical shunt
    At 10:26 PM 4/2/2007 -0400, you wrote: > >Is one place better then another for the location of the electrical shunt >in the electrical system? Thanks Dale Ammeters and voltmeters are diagnostic tools. They have little or no value for operating the airplane. When it comes time to diagnose a mis-behaving system, you will undoubtedly need measurements at more places in the system than any single set of points selected for panel mounted voltmeters and ammeters. If you have the space, have the instruments and want to install them, it's my recommendation that voltmeters read the e-bus and ammeters read alternator output as a loadmeter. This philosophy is illustrated in most of the z-figures. No doubt there are other opinions backed up by a range of personal preferences . . . but when it comes time to take advantage of any voltage or current readings to fix something, you'll probably be prowling around all over the system with your multimeter. Bob . . . ---------------------------------------- ( IF one aspires to be "world class", ) ( what ever you do must be exercised ) ( EVERY day . . . ) ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 5


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    Time: 03:15:00 PM PST US
    From: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
    Subject: magneto wiring
    I just hooked up my magneto grounding wire (a shielded #18). Checking with a continuity meter, there is continuity betwen the mag ground terminal and the P-lead regardless of whether the switch is open or closed or even disconnected, for that matter. I'm concluding from this that the 2 terminals on the mag are connected internally through some coil, so the continuity test doesn't show what I was expecting. Is this correct? -- Tom S. RV-6A, wiring.


    Message 6


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    Time: 04:08:03 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: magneto wiring
    From: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
    Yep. A buzzbox detects the difference in inductance between shorted to ground via the points when the points are closed (L=0), and shorted to ground via the primary winding in the coil when the points are open. Matt- > > I just hooked up my magneto grounding wire (a shielded #18). Checking > with a continuity meter, there is continuity betwen the mag ground > terminal and the P-lead regardless of whether the switch is open or > closed or even disconnected, for that matter. I'm concluding from this > that the 2 terminals on the mag are connected internally through some > coil, so the continuity test doesn't show what I was expecting. > > Is this correct? > > -- > Tom S. > RV-6A, wiring. > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 04:17:16 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: magneto wiring
    At 03:12 PM 4/3/2007 -0700, you wrote: > >I just hooked up my magneto grounding wire (a shielded #18). Checking >with a continuity meter, there is continuity betwen the mag ground >terminal and the P-lead regardless of whether the switch is open or closed >or even disconnected, for that matter. I'm concluding from this that the >2 terminals on the mag are connected internally through some coil, so the >continuity test doesn't show what I was expecting. > >Is this correct? The p-lead is connected across the PRIMARY winding of the magneto coil which has a very low resistance. Further, the timing points inside the magneto are connected in parallel with the magneto switch so even if the primary winding had some significant resistance, your ohmmeter check would still read VERY low if the points were closed. This is why an ohmmeter cannot be used as a practical tool for timing a magneto . . . it's exceedingly difficult to deduce when the points open based purely upon the DC resistance one observes from the outside looking in. This is why you use a "buzz box". The buzzer in a buzz-box generates a sort of AC signal that IS NOT highly loaded by the AC impedance of the magneto coil primary but IS severely loaded by closed points. Modern solid-state replacements for the century old buzz box use electronics to generate an AC signal needed to bias the magneto primary so that transitions of conductivity across the points may be readily detected during a timing operation. Bob . . . ---------------------------------------- ( IF one aspires to be "world class", ) ( what ever you do must be exercised ) ( EVERY day . . . ) ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 8


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    Time: 07:15:51 PM PST US
    From: Sam Marlow <sam@fr8dog.net>
    Subject: Re: Zener Diodes
    Yes, I have there board, but they don't have the diodes. Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote: > Aircraft extras has a speed reducer, IE during slow flight the servos > move fast, and during fast flight the servos move slow. I have them > installed, but am not flying yet. > Dan > N289DT > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of > *Sam Marlow > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 03, 2007 9:34 AM > *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: Zener Diodes > > I'm looking to slow down my trim servo for cruise, does anyone have a > source for 1N5323 zener diodes, or a better idea? > Thanks, > Sam Marlow > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > > * > * > > > *


    Message 9


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    Time: 08:10:19 PM PST US
    From: "rtitsworth" <rtitsworth@mindspring.com>
    Subject: 12V batteries in series
    Bob, etal I'm wiring two 12v batteries in series (to make a 24 volt battery). The batteries I'm using (Panasonic) have threaded posts as terminals. The (+)and (-) terminals are symmetric, so placing the batteries back-to-back, places the intermediate terminals close to each other (~1.5" apart). The batteries will be physically clamped together in the mount and are in the tail (relatively low vibration). Question: How to best "wire" the intermediate (+) and (-) terminals together? 1. I can make short leads from welding cable (like the other main battery connections). But, this uses much more material than necessary and creates a space/routing problem in the battery mount/box. 2. I can make a short connection strap from some bar stock (assume approx 1" x 2.5" x 1/8" or 3/16" thick) with two holes to mate with the threaded terminal posts. What to make the strap from??? Copper - good conductivity but eventually corrodes Aluminum - lighter, but corrosion (al oxide) in not very conductive Steel - ??? Most vibration resistant? What about plating any of the above? i.e. Copper with Tin or Nickel plating. (I have access to a professional plating shop). Rick Titsworth Lancair ES - building.


    Message 10


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    Time: 08:23:33 PM PST US
    From: BobsV35B@aol.com
    Subject: 12V batteries in series
    Good Evening Rick, Way out of my area, but what would you think about using a soft copper strap with a U shaped excursion to absorb any vibration or temperature caused movement? I would use a strap about 3/4 of an inch wide, one sixteenth of an inch thick and with the U shape about an inch high (or low!). I would make it by making a ninety degree bend, go up (or down) about three quarters of an inch to one inch, make a one eighty back to where the U started, another ninety and off to the other battery. Nickel plating sounds like a great idea. Your thoughts? Happy Skies, Old Bob AKA Bob Siegfried Ancient Aviator Stearman N3977A Brookeridge Air Park LL22 Downers Grove, IL 60516 630 985-8503 In a message dated 4/3/2007 10:11:49 P.M. Central Daylight Time, rtitsworth@mindspring.com writes: Bob, etal I'm wiring two 12v batteries in series (to make a 24 volt battery). The batteries I'm using (Panasonic) have threaded posts as terminals. The (+)and (-) terminals are symmetric, so placing the batteries back-to-back, places the intermediate terminals close to each other (~1.5" apart). The batteries will be physically clamped together in the mount and are in the tail (relatively low vibration). Question: How to best "wire" the intermediate (+) and (-) terminals together? 1. I can make short leads from welding cable (like the other main battery connections). But, this uses much more material than necessary and creates a space/routing problem in the battery mount/box. 2. I can make a short connection strap from some bar stock (assume approx 1" x 2.5" x 1/8" or 3/16" thick) with two holes to mate with the threaded terminal posts. What to make the strap from??? Copper - good conductivity but eventually corrodes Aluminum - lighter, but corrosion (al oxide) in not very conductive Steel - ??? Most vibration resistant? What about plating any of the above? i.e. Copper with Tin or Nickel plating. (I have access to a professional plating shop). Rick Titsworth Lancair ES - building. ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.




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