Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:35 AM - Zener Diodes (Sam Marlow)
2. 07:17 AM - Re: Avionics Mounting (D Fritz)
3. 07:48 AM - Re: Zener Diodes (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
4. 09:16 AM - Re: Location of electrical shunt (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 03:15 PM - magneto wiring (sarg314)
6. 04:08 PM - Re: magneto wiring (Matt Prather)
7. 04:17 PM - Re: magneto wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 07:15 PM - Re: Zener Diodes (Sam Marlow)
9. 08:10 PM - 12V batteries in series (rtitsworth)
10. 08:23 PM - 12V batteries in series (BobsV35B@aol.com)
Message 1
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I'm looking to slow down my trim servo for cruise, does anyone have a
source for 1N5323 zener diodes, or a better idea?
Thanks,
Sam Marlow
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Avionics Mounting |
I purchased some extruded bars and associated hardware that seems to work as well
as RadioRax for much less. Follow this link for the catalog. I haven't flown
yet, but mechanically these look like they'll work quite well, the bars are
made so that once you tighten down the mounting screws the aluminum is preloaded
and therefore resistant to loosening from vibration. Try this link:
http://www.8020.net/PDF/Fractional%20Section%201.pdf
Dan
---------------------------------
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(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
Message 3
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Aircraft extras has a speed reducer, IE during slow flight the servos
move fast, and during fast flight the servos move slow. I have them
installed, but am not flying yet.
Dan
N289DT
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam
Marlow
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 9:34 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Zener Diodes
I'm looking to slow down my trim servo for cruise, does anyone have a
source for 1N5323 zener diodes, or a better idea?
Thanks,
Sam Marlow
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Location of electrical shunt |
At 10:26 PM 4/2/2007 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Is one place better then another for the location of the electrical shunt
>in the electrical system? Thanks Dale
Ammeters and voltmeters are diagnostic tools. They
have little or no value for operating the airplane.
When it comes time to diagnose a mis-behaving system,
you will undoubtedly need measurements at more places
in the system than any single set of points selected
for panel mounted voltmeters and ammeters.
If you have the space, have the instruments and want
to install them, it's my recommendation that voltmeters
read the e-bus and ammeters read alternator output
as a loadmeter.
This philosophy is illustrated in most of the z-figures.
No doubt there are other opinions backed up by a
range of personal preferences . . . but when it comes
time to take advantage of any voltage or current readings
to fix something, you'll probably be prowling around all
over the system with your multimeter.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 5
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I just hooked up my magneto grounding wire (a shielded #18). Checking
with a continuity meter, there is continuity betwen the mag ground
terminal and the P-lead regardless of whether the switch is open or
closed or even disconnected, for that matter. I'm concluding from this
that the 2 terminals on the mag are connected internally through some
coil, so the continuity test doesn't show what I was expecting.
Is this correct?
--
Tom S.
RV-6A, wiring.
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: magneto wiring |
Yep.
A buzzbox detects the difference in inductance between shorted to ground
via the points when the points are closed (L=0), and shorted to ground via
the primary winding in the coil when the points are open.
Matt-
>
> I just hooked up my magneto grounding wire (a shielded #18). Checking
> with a continuity meter, there is continuity betwen the mag ground
> terminal and the P-lead regardless of whether the switch is open or
> closed or even disconnected, for that matter. I'm concluding from this
> that the 2 terminals on the mag are connected internally through some
> coil, so the continuity test doesn't show what I was expecting.
>
> Is this correct?
>
> --
> Tom S.
> RV-6A, wiring.
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: magneto wiring |
At 03:12 PM 4/3/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>
>I just hooked up my magneto grounding wire (a shielded #18). Checking
>with a continuity meter, there is continuity betwen the mag ground
>terminal and the P-lead regardless of whether the switch is open or closed
>or even disconnected, for that matter. I'm concluding from this that the
>2 terminals on the mag are connected internally through some coil, so the
>continuity test doesn't show what I was expecting.
>
>Is this correct?
The p-lead is connected across the PRIMARY winding
of the magneto coil which has a very low resistance.
Further, the timing points inside the magneto are
connected in parallel with the magneto switch
so even if the primary winding had some significant
resistance, your ohmmeter check would still read VERY
low if the points were closed.
This is why an ohmmeter cannot be used as a practical
tool for timing a magneto . . . it's exceedingly
difficult to deduce when the points open based purely
upon the DC resistance one observes from the outside
looking in. This is why you use a "buzz box". The
buzzer in a buzz-box generates a sort of AC signal
that IS NOT highly loaded by the AC impedance of the
magneto coil primary but IS severely loaded by closed
points.
Modern solid-state replacements for the century old
buzz box use electronics to generate an
AC signal needed to bias the magneto primary so
that transitions of conductivity across the points
may be readily detected during a timing operation.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Zener Diodes |
Yes, I have there board, but they don't have the diodes.
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
> Aircraft extras has a speed reducer, IE during slow flight the servos
> move fast, and during fast flight the servos move slow. I have them
> installed, but am not flying yet.
> Dan
> N289DT
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Sam Marlow
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 03, 2007 9:34 AM
> *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: Zener Diodes
>
> I'm looking to slow down my trim servo for cruise, does anyone have a
> source for 1N5323 zener diodes, or a better idea?
> Thanks,
> Sam Marlow
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 9
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Subject: | 12V batteries in series |
Bob, etal
I'm wiring two 12v batteries in series (to make a 24 volt battery). The
batteries I'm using (Panasonic) have threaded posts as terminals. The
(+)and (-) terminals are symmetric, so placing the batteries back-to-back,
places the intermediate terminals close to each other (~1.5" apart). The
batteries will be physically clamped together in the mount and are in the
tail (relatively low vibration).
Question: How to best "wire" the intermediate (+) and (-) terminals
together?
1. I can make short leads from welding cable (like the other main battery
connections). But, this uses much more material than necessary and creates
a space/routing problem in the battery mount/box.
2. I can make a short connection strap from some bar stock (assume approx 1"
x 2.5" x 1/8" or 3/16" thick) with two holes to mate with the threaded
terminal posts. What to make the strap from???
Copper - good conductivity but eventually corrodes
Aluminum - lighter, but corrosion (al oxide) in not very conductive
Steel - ??? Most vibration resistant?
What about plating any of the above? i.e. Copper with Tin or Nickel
plating. (I have access to a professional plating shop).
Rick Titsworth
Lancair ES - building.
Message 10
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Subject: | 12V batteries in series |
Good Evening Rick,
Way out of my area, but what would you think about using a soft copper strap
with a U shaped excursion to absorb any vibration or temperature caused
movement?
I would use a strap about 3/4 of an inch wide, one sixteenth of an inch
thick and with the U shape about an inch high (or low!). I would make it by
making a ninety degree bend, go up (or down) about three quarters of an inch to
one inch, make a one eighty back to where the U started, another ninety and off
to the other battery.
Nickel plating sounds like a great idea.
Your thoughts?
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
In a message dated 4/3/2007 10:11:49 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
rtitsworth@mindspring.com writes:
Bob, etal
I'm wiring two 12v batteries in series (to make a 24 volt battery). The
batteries I'm using (Panasonic) have threaded posts as terminals. The
(+)and (-) terminals are symmetric, so placing the batteries back-to-back,
places the intermediate terminals close to each other (~1.5" apart). The
batteries will be physically clamped together in the mount and are in the
tail (relatively low vibration).
Question: How to best "wire" the intermediate (+) and (-) terminals
together?
1. I can make short leads from welding cable (like the other main battery
connections). But, this uses much more material than necessary and creates
a space/routing problem in the battery mount/box.
2. I can make a short connection strap from some bar stock (assume approx 1"
x 2.5" x 1/8" or 3/16" thick) with two holes to mate with the threaded
terminal posts. What to make the strap from???
Copper - good conductivity but eventually corrodes
Aluminum - lighter, but corrosion (al oxide) in not very conductive
Steel - ??? Most vibration resistant?
What about plating any of the above? i.e. Copper with Tin or Nickel
plating. (I have access to a professional plating shop).
Rick Titsworth
Lancair ES - building.
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