Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:42 AM - Re: Starter contactor location (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 06:30 AM - Seminar in West Bend, WI (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 07:23 AM - Re: Final schematic (Gaye and Vaughn)
4. 07:33 AM - Re: aux music input quiet on flightcom 403mc (Bill Putney)
5. 06:17 PM - Dimmer for 5 volt lights (Don Vs)
6. 06:55 PM - Re: Final schematic (Roger Cole)
7. 07:52 PM - Re: Final schematic (sarg314)
8. 09:41 PM - Re: Dimmer for 5 volt lights (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 10:23 PM - Re: Dimmer for 5 volt lights (Don Vs)
10. 10:43 PM - Re: Dimmer for 5 volt lights (Ron Quillin)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Starter contactor location |
At 10:34 AM 4/8/2007 -0400, you wrote:
>
>OOPS
>
>Bob had already replied, my bad.
NOT AT ALL my friend. It's not uncommon that a question
here on the list generates more than one answer. Many times
the answers are identical, but sometimes just similar or
even an alternative. No matter how what you answer or
whether it's repetitive, the act of formulating a
collection of ideas into cogent words is a tool of
the teacher. If you simply parrot what I or anyone
else offers then you're demonstrating a level of
knowledge but your ability to teach the concept from
a position of understanding is not demonstrated.
When you offer words that describe a collection of
simple-ideas crafted into a recipe for success that
you understand, then sir you are honing your skills
as a teacher and that is appropriate any time.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 2
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Subject: | Seminar in West Bend, WI |
Dr. Dee and are going to visit EAA Chapter 1158 in West
Bend, Wisconsin next month for a weekend of good conversation
and to deliver the third in our series of beta-seminars
that's moving rapidly into the electronic presentations
philosophies. We used to carry a lot of hands-on stuff on these
trips but TSA is making it increasingly difficult.
The alternative is to move the presentations to a "thumb-drive"
and expand the scope of visuals utilized to replace the loss
of hardware. One advantage of the new format is that everyone
can take a copy of the presentation home with them. This
will reduce the need to take notes and offer attendees an
opportunity to share what they've learned with folks back
at their own chapters.
We'll invite the curious and motivated to consider joining
us in what promises to be an exemplary meeting facility.
I'm hearing some really amazing descriptions of this venue.
Join us if you can at:
http://aeroelectric.com/seminars/WestBend.html
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Final schematic |
Brevan
Thanks for the comments. The flaps and monowheel are manually controlled
with one lever. I will contact Airmaster to see if they recommend a
switch for the prop. They told me that if it quit working, it stayed in
the last postion that it was in before it failed. I did not think to ask
if I needed an on/off switch. Thanks for bringing that to my attention.
Vaughn Teegarden
Europa XS mono, Rotax 914
----- Original Message -----
From: B Tomm
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2007 3:53 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Final schematic
Are the flaps electric? If so, do they get there power from a fused
circuit or a breaker?
Likewise, shouldn't the prop controller come from a switched breaker
circuit to aid in "resetting" it, and also positively overriding it's
operation? What type of electric prop is it?
Bevan
RV7A finishing kit
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gaye
and Vaughn
Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2007 9:21 AM
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Final schematic
I am attaching my final(almost) main schematic. There are lots of
switches, but all up makes it run and all down kills the sparks. All
subscribers feel free to critique, not criticize, due to delicate
feelings of neophyte.
Vaughn Teegarden
Europa XS mono, Rotax 914
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: aux music input quiet on flightcom 403mc |
I had this same problem with my intercom. The basic problem is that the
MP3 player has headphone outputs that are low impedance. That is to say
low voltage but high current output. The intercom input is high
impedance and wants a little higher voltage. I fixed the problem by
making a little box with 2 Radio Shack speaker to line transformers in
it (one for left and one for right) and a pair of 1/8" stereo jacks. If
I remember correctly the transformers were like 8 ohms on one side and
2000 ohms on the other side. That effectively gives a 1:250 increase in
volume level to the intercom.
I ruined an MP3 player running it at 100% volume and it still wasn't
loud enough before I built this box. Now I never run above half volume.
The best thing is that the transformer box doesn't need batteries and
the battery in the MP3 player lasts a lot longer because it's not
working so hard.
I think if you need a mono output to your intercom, you could either mix
the high impedance outputs of the transformers with a couple of 1K
resistors or mix the inputs with a couple of 10 ohm resistors and then
take that and put it through a single transformer.
- Bill
Ron Quillin wrote:
> A couple of comments if I may. First I have to agree with Bob,
> directly connecting two outputs to one another is not a good idea, at
> all, and can cause damage to the output circuit of the source device.
> 47 ohms would work, but at a minimum use a value equal to the
> impedance (resistance) of the earphone/speaker normally connected; say
> 10 ohms minimum. Also, the 10 ohm 10uF combination will limit low
> frequencies below ~1600Hz; Ok if you don't want much low end, but...
>
> Attached is a pdf you may want to try. Keep the rest as you had it if
> it seems to work well. This one will sum (mix) the L & R signals
> without nuking the mp3 player's output, should give you cleaner audio
> as well. If you don't like the 10/100 ohm pair, go to 100/1k instead.
> Also with this combination the LF will be extended down to about
> 160Hz.
>
> Ron Q.
> old audio engineer.
>
>> > <snai> Anyway, I'm not
>> > an electrical engineer (I'm mechanical) so I am really not all that
>> great
>> > at designing circuits, but this one works for me. I thought I would
>> post
>> > it in case anybody want to use it as a starting point for their own
>> amp.
>> >
>> >http://www.geocities.com/bryanflood2001/AudioAmpfor403MC.bmp
>>
>> You might want to consider a couple of resistors in
>> series with each of the stereo outputs before you
>> bring them together as a monophonic mix. Output
>> signals from the two channels are not identical
>> and some degradation of audio will occur when the
>> outputs "load" each other as described in the chapter
>> on audio systems. Something on the order of 47 ohms
>> per side is suggested.
>>
>> Bob . . .
Message 5
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Subject: | Dimmer for 5 volt lights |
I am looking gor a recopmendation on purchase of a dimmer system for 5 volt
panel lights. My AC has a 14 volt system and the people who are building an
ecgraved panel for me recomended 5 volt lights vs 14 volt because they last
considerably longer.So, does anyone know of a good dimmer with a masx output
of 5 volts with 14 volts in? Thanks. Don
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Final schematic |
Vaughn,
My only suggestion would be to make a space on the panel between the
four groups of switches (i.e/, DC Power, Engine, Avionics, and
Lights). That way you will be able to find the switch that you want
by feel in darkness, turbulence, or whatever.
Roger Cole
Murphy Elite (building wings)
On Apr 8, 2007, at 11:20 AM, Gaye and Vaughn wrote:
> I am attaching my final(almost) main schematic. There are lots of
> switches, but all up makes it run and all down kills the sparks.
> All subscribers feel free to critique, not criticize, due to
> delicate feelings of neophyte.
>
> Vaughn Teegarden
> Europa XS mono, Rotax 914
>
>
> <scan0001.pdf>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Final schematic |
I strongly second roger's observation. A row of a dozen identical
toggle switches spaced exactly evenly is hard to use - you'll find
yourself trying to read the little labels in flight. Mine are in groups
of 2 or 3 and not even all in a row at the bottom of the panel. It
makes it easy to find the switch you want without looking or even in the
dark. I recall an article about panel design in Kit Planes a few years
ago that made this same point.
Roger Cole wrote:
> Vaughn,
> My only suggestion would be to make a space on the panel between the
> four groups of switches (i.e/, DC Power, Engine, Avionics, and
> Lights). That way you will be able to find the switch that you want
> by feel in darkness, turbulence, or whatever.
> Roger Cole
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, wiring.
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Dimmer for 5 volt lights |
At 06:17 PM 4/9/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>
>I am looking gor a recopmendation on purchase of a dimmer system for 5 volt
>panel lights. My AC has a 14 volt system and the people who are building an
>ecgraved panel for me recomended 5 volt lights vs 14 volt because they last
>considerably longer.So, does anyone know of a good dimmer with a masx output
>of 5 volts with 14 volts in? Thanks. Don
It just so happens that I'm building one for a customer. Details
are not finalized yet but it looks like the critter will be rated
at 0.7 to 5.0 volts output at up to 4A. It will be packaged in
the same enclosure as shown on page 2 of
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9011/9011-700-1C.pdf
I'll know more in about a week. Prototyping parts are expected
here later this week but I won't be able to play with them
until next week.
I think the price will be something on the order of $55
and will include the externally mounted dimmer control
pot.
The part number will be AEC9033-1.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 9
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Subject: | Dimmer for 5 volt lights |
Bob,
I will take one. I need to know the size hole that the pot will require in
the panel so that I can proceed with that part of the project. If you can
please send me that information and please let me know when the dimmer is
available. Thanks. Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dimmer for 5 volt lights
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 06:17 PM 4/9/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>
>I am looking gor a recopmendation on purchase of a dimmer system for 5 volt
>panel lights. My AC has a 14 volt system and the people who are building
an
>ecgraved panel for me recomended 5 volt lights vs 14 volt because they last
>considerably longer.So, does anyone know of a good dimmer with a masx
output
>of 5 volts with 14 volts in? Thanks. Don
It just so happens that I'm building one for a customer. Details
are not finalized yet but it looks like the critter will be rated
at 0.7 to 5.0 volts output at up to 4A. It will be packaged in
the same enclosure as shown on page 2 of
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9011/9011-700-1C.pdf
I'll know more in about a week. Prototyping parts are expected
here later this week but I won't be able to play with them
until next week.
I think the price will be something on the order of $55
and will include the externally mounted dimmer control
pot.
The part number will be AEC9033-1.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Dimmer for 5 volt lights |
At 22:40 4/9/2007, you wrote:
>I think the price will be something on the order of $55
> and will include the externally mounted dimmer control
> pot.
>
> The part number will be AEC9033-1.
>
> Bob . . .
Any chance you could make it track an existing 14V dimmer circuit as an option?
Ron Q.
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