Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:41 AM - SELF EXCITING DUAL POWER SUPPLY WITH OCM (Peter Harris)
2. 02:36 AM - Re: SELF EXCITING DUAL POWER SUPPLY WITH OCM (Gilles Thesee)
3. 07:56 AM - 12v supply to stabilize avionics (bob mackey)
4. 08:23 AM - Re: HID lights (Dr. Andrew Elliott)
5. 09:12 AM - Re: Re: HID lights (Steve Thomas)
6. 12:37 PM - Re: 12v supply to stabilize avionics (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
7. 01:48 PM - Z-13/20 Questions (Aaron Gleixner)
8. 02:53 PM - Re: SELF EXCITING DUAL POWER SUPPLY WITH OCM (Peter Harris)
9. 03:28 PM - Re: Re: HID lights (rtitsworth)
10. 04:49 PM - Re: Re: HID lights (Alan Adamson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | SELF EXCITING DUAL POWER SUPPLY WITH OCM |
Hi again, more questions,
As a newbie I get to make my share of mistakes. I have taken the liberty to
modify Z-25 to show an over current module and a dual power outlet for the
essential bus and I would welcome some guidance along the following lines:
1. The OCM item A I inherited from another project, a
Norton rotary engine install with 3 phase solid state regulator rectifier.
It is supposed to protect against over current from a short in the
alternator or on the battery side. Question : Should I keep it ? Is it in
the right place ?
2. Is the dual alternate feed path for the dual supply to
eBus OK ? It should supply from the self excited PM alternator/regulator,
or from the battery, or both (normally both) Should those two switches be
protected ? How ?
3. Should I consider a switching sequence for start up and
shut down ? Details?
If you read this far you will know that I have just enough knowhow to get
into trouble and I would appreciate any comments. If the html diagram does
not post below I will set it up in the pictures section.
Thanks
Peter
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: SELF EXCITING DUAL POWER SUPPLY WITH OCM |
Peter,
> 1. The OCM item A I inherited from another project,
> a Norton rotary engine install with 3 phase solid state regulator
> rectifier. It is supposed to protect against over current from a short
> in the alternator or on the battery side. Question : Should I keep it ?
>
Your diagram already shows a fuselink. With your setup I would install
it direct at the battery positive post. I always choose the simplest,
lightest, least expensive device.
This module seems to include a 30 amp CB. This means running a fat wire
from the battery + to the intended location.
> 2. Is the dual alternate feed path for the dual
> supply to eBus OK ? It should supply from the self excited PM
> alternator/regulator, or from the battery, or both (normally both)
>
That's a lot of switches to manage. What purpose did you say the dual
E-bus supply was for ?
> Should those two switches be protected ? How ?
>
I would protect the E-bus alt feed with a fuselink or something direct
at the battery.
> 3. Should I consider a switching sequence for start
> up and shut down ? Details?
>
Since those switches are "alternate feedpath", I would leave them always
open except in case of alternator loss (real or simulated). In that
case, I'm trying to figure out why you would need the "direct from
alternator" path ?
Especially if you decide not to (or forget to) close the alternator switch.
Please note that the OV module will only work when the alternator switch
is closed. In a worst case situation, you may well fry your avionics
while attempting to sort out an OV event and closing the wrong switch.
Better leave this "alternate alternate" out.
The Jabiru is a simple engine. If it were up to me, I'd control the
alternator through the master switch, a' la figure Z16.
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | 12v supply to stabilize avionics |
As Bob Nuchols surmised, this is lighter weight than
a second battery -- 0.1 lbs plus wiring.
It uses an Linear LTC3780.
http://www.linear.com/pc/productDetail.jsp?navId=H0,C1,C1003,C1042,C1116,P10090
The spec sheet for the 12V supply is attached.
-bob mackey
Message 4
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I don't know if your idea to "roll your own" is for fun, but I recently
purchased a pair of Xenarc X1010 fog/driving lights from suvlights.com.
These use D1S bulbs. They come with the diffuser installed for fogs,
but this can be easily removed (instructions on the web site) to make
one fog and one driving light. They are available in both 4250K and
5400K colors as you like. They come set up for wireless remote
switching, but can be wired for regular switches if you like. All in
all, a fiarly nice set up. Cost is only $348 for a pair with all the
wiring, etc.
I haven't installed them yet, but plan is for a leading edge cut-out and
plexiglass window. These lights are astoundingly bright if you are used
to 4509's!
FWIW,
Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
N601GE (reserved)
601XL/TD/QB, Corvair, building...
Message 5
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Can these lights be wired to operate independently? I.e., turn on
one at a time using separate switches?
Best Regards,
Steve
____________________________________________________________________
On Apr 29, 2007, at 8:21 AM, Dr. Andrew Elliott wrote:
> I don't know if your idea to "roll your own" is for fun, but I
> recently purchased a pair of Xenarc X1010 fog/driving lights from
> suvlights.com. These use D1S bulbs. They come with the diffuser
> installed for fogs, but this can be easily removed (instructions on
> the web site) to make one fog and one driving light. They are
> available in both 4250K and 5400K colors as you like. They come
> set up for wireless remote switching, but can be wired for regular
> switches if you like. All in all, a fiarly nice set up. Cost is
> only $348 for a pair with all the wiring, etc.
>
> I haven't installed them yet, but plan is for a leading edge cut-
> out and plexiglass window. These lights are astoundingly bright if
> you are used to 4509's!
>
> FWIW,
> Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
> N601GE (reserved)
> 601XL/TD/QB, Corvair, building...
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ===========================================================
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 12v supply to stabilize avionics |
That's what I did for my GRT EFIS brownout/reboot problem. I installed a
hi-qual switch. If that switch ever fails, I have one radio, GPS and Dynon still
good. But what are the odds? Now I just do an engine start, then flip R mag,
Alternator, and Avionix switches on. Slick, and no pesky and long rebooting
of GRT.
BTW, my Skytec spins the XP-IO360 like crazy from a 4 yr old PC680 Batt. I
know, Bob, I should replace it every year, but I'm VFR and cheap...
Jerry Cochran
From: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: 12v supply to stabilize avionics
<snip>
How about turn the avionics off during start with a avionics master switch?
How about a more efficient starter (NL skytec), bigger starter wire and
stronger
battery?
Good luck but sounds like more complication than necessary. Of course the
aeroelectric
way is more complication and weight, always good.
George
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Z-13/20 Questions |
I'm planning the electrical system for my RV-10, and really like the layout of
the Z-13/8 system, but want the extra power of the SD-20. I originally was looking
at the Z-12 layout, but didn't like 1) Single point failure of battery contactor
leaves you running endurance bus on battery only, and 2) in the event
of main alternator failure, I want to quickly switch to a large endurance bus
and not have to start turning off loads individually on the main bus if I'm over
20 Amps.
My question is why can't I use the Z-13/8 layout, and simply increase the size
of the e-bus fuse on the main battery bus to 20 amps, and us an e-bus alternate
feed switch that could handle 20 maps. The alternator field for the backup
alternator could be run from the e-bus. It eliminates the S701-1 e-bus contactor
which adds a lot of wire runs for the RV-10 with battery in the tail. Seems
like a simple solution, what am I missing?
Message 8
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| Subject: | SELF EXCITING DUAL POWER SUPPLY WITH OCM |
Thanks Gilles,
The principle is to make use of the self excitation feature to make a dual
power supply that would work either from the battery or from the alternator
or both. I am planning to fit EFI to the Jabiru 3300.
Re 1. Suppose I would quit the fuse link in favour of the OCM which
automatically resets. ? It could be relocated closer to the battery.
2. The dual ebus is for the EFI covering an ECU and a fuel pump. It
could also supply a single electronic ignition module and I would plan for
say 8A I was planning to leave those switches normally closed and opened
only if for some reason I wanted to isolate from either the battery or the
alternator. Ie that is not an alternative path it is for the sole supply for
the EFI.
3. I overlooked the need for the alt relay to be closed. I would want to
connect that line to the alternator side of the alt relay and protect it?
What do you think?
Thanks for the help.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gilles
Thesee
Sent: Sunday, 29 April 2007 7:35 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: SELF EXCITING DUAL POWER SUPPLY WITH OCM
<Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Peter,
> 1. The OCM item A I inherited from another project,
> a Norton rotary engine install with 3 phase solid state regulator
> rectifier. It is supposed to protect against over current from a short
> in the alternator or on the battery side. Question : Should I keep it ?
>
Your diagram already shows a fuselink. With your setup I would install
it direct at the battery positive post. I always choose the simplest,
lightest, least expensive device.
This module seems to include a 30 amp CB. This means running a fat wire
from the battery + to the intended location.
> 2. Is the dual alternate feed path for the dual
> supply to eBus OK ? It should supply from the self excited PM
> alternator/regulator, or from the battery, or both (normally both)
>
That's a lot of switches to manage. What purpose did you say the dual
E-bus supply was for ?
> Should those two switches be protected ? How ?
>
I would protect the E-bus alt feed with a fuselink or something direct
at the battery.
> 3. Should I consider a switching sequence for start
> up and shut down ? Details?
>
Since those switches are "alternate feedpath", I would leave them always
open except in case of alternator loss (real or simulated). In that
case, I'm trying to figure out why you would need the "direct from
alternator" path ?
Especially if you decide not to (or forget to) close the alternator switch.
Please note that the OV module will only work when the alternator switch
is closed. In a worst case situation, you may well fry your avionics
while attempting to sort out an OV event and closing the wrong switch.
Better leave this "alternate alternate" out.
The Jabiru is a simple engine. If it were up to me, I'd control the
alternator through the master switch, a' la figure Z16.
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
>
>
Message 9
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Do your HID lights from SUVLights.com include any voltage specs? I need
24-28V. Most auto lights are of course 12V. However, rumor has it that
some/many HID ballasts work over a wide voltage range (i.e. 12-30V). Just
curious. I'd buy the same ones you have if they'd work with 24-28V.
Rick
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dr.
Andrew Elliott
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 11:22 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: HID lights
I don't know if your idea to "roll your own" is for fun, but I recently
purchased a pair of Xenarc X1010 fog/driving lights from suvlights.com.
These use D1S bulbs. They come with the diffuser installed for fogs, but
this can be easily removed (instructions on the web site) to make one fog
and one driving light. They are available in both 4250K and 5400K colors as
you like. They come set up for wireless remote switching, but can be wired
for regular switches if you like. All in all, a fiarly nice set up. Cost
is only $348 for a pair with all the wiring, etc.
I haven't installed them yet, but plan is for a leading edge cut-out and
plexiglass window. These lights are astoundingly bright if you are used to
4509's!
FWIW,
Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
N601GE (reserved)
601XL/TD/QB, Corvair, building...
Message 10
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Rick,
I know exactly what you need... Did you get by the Preciseflight booth at
SNF, they have 12 and 24v HID's. In fact, in the case of the Legacy, they
even make ones that fit exactly in the wing mount. Mine are on the way
:)... Now, they aren't cheap like Auto ones, but I wanted 24V and have
found them only a handful of places...
I did get the Show special at least...
Alan
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rtitsworth
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 6:28 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: HID lights
Do your HID lights from SUVLights.com include any voltage specs? I need
24-28V. Most auto lights are of course 12V. However, rumor has it that
some/many HID ballasts work over a wide voltage range (i.e. 12-30V). Just
curious. I'd buy the same ones you have if they'd work with 24-28V.
Rick
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dr.
Andrew Elliott
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 11:22 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: HID lights
I don't know if your idea to "roll your own" is for fun, but I recently
purchased a pair of Xenarc X1010 fog/driving lights from suvlights.com.
These use D1S bulbs. They come with the diffuser installed for fogs, but
this can be easily removed (instructions on the web site) to make one fog
and one driving light. They are available in both 4250K and 5400K colors as
you like. They come set up for wireless remote switching, but can be wired
for regular switches if you like. All in all, a fiarly nice set up. Cost
is only $348 for a pair with all the wiring, etc.
I haven't installed them yet, but plan is for a leading edge cut-out and
plexiglass window. These lights are astoundingly bright if you are used to
4509's!
FWIW,
Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
N601GE (reserved)
601XL/TD/QB, Corvair, building...
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