Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:03 AM - Re: Wiring integrity!!! (RV_10)
2. 06:43 AM - Re: Wiring integrity!!! (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 08:12 AM - Zanon XRX antenna position (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
4. 08:12 AM - Re: Switch confusion (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 08:15 AM - Re: Belden Triax vs. Coax rg58 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 08:16 AM - Re: Re: Low Voltage Light Flashing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 08:27 AM - Re: Broken Battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 11:21 AM - Re: Zanon XRX antenna position (Ken)
9. 11:22 AM - connector for sl-30 (Ron Raby)
10. 12:39 PM - Re: connector for sl-30 (Ron Quillin)
11. 12:53 PM - Re: Broken Battery (raymondj)
12. 01:45 PM - Re: Wiring integrity!!! (RV_10)
13. 02:07 PM - Re: Broken Battery (S. Ramirez)
14. 03:16 PM - Dual Voltage Operation of Ford-style Alternator (paulmillner)
15. 03:24 PM - Re: Switch confusion (Christopher Barber)
16. 03:39 PM - Re: Switch confusion (Christopher Barber)
17. 04:32 PM - 3-way connection (Edward Christian)
18. 07:36 PM - SPDT momentary push-button switch (comm flip-flop) (William Gill)
19. 09:47 PM - Re: Switch confusion/ off topic (Peter Harris)
20. 11:09 PM - Jabiru EI pick up (Peter Harris)
Message 1
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Subject: | ectric-List:Wiring integrity!!! |
Hi Frank,
For what it is worth, we recently had a hangar fire at our airport. The fire
started in a trike, which was wasted, and several other aircraft have been
written off or seriously damaged.
At this stage they believe the fire was started by the battery cable which
was positioned across and sitting on an aluminum angle with no stand off and
no added protection.
Regards,
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frank
Stringham
Sent: Wednesday, 9 May 2007 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List:Wiring integrity!!!
<fstringham@hotmail.com>
A Cessna 210 on a flight from San Antonio to Seattle when his distress call
said smoke in the cabin. The sad out come was the pilot lost control and
crashed near Springville, Utah.
Now i know that there are other causes of smoke but it raised my concern of
eletrical fires.
I am wiring my plane according Z-13/8. Now the question: What are the usual
failure points that cause electrical fires? in aircraft wiring systems?
I know this is pretty open ended and I must also admit that I haven't done
a search yet so if you want to with hold until I have done my home work
that is fine but if you have some pearls of wisdom .......please
help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Frank @ SGU RV7A "NDY" Panel / electrical.....
_________________________________________________________________
More photos, more messages, more storage-get 2GB with Windows Live Hotmail.
Message 2
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Subject: | ectric-List:Wiring integrity!!! |
At 07:01 PM 5/9/2007 +1000, you wrote:
>
>Hi Frank,
>
>For what it is worth, we recently had a hangar fire at our airport. The fire
>started in a trike, which was wasted, and several other aircraft have been
>written off or seriously damaged.
>
>At this stage they believe the fire was started by the battery cable which
>was positioned across and sitting on an aluminum angle with no stand off and
>no added protection.
>
>Regards,
>John
Have you seen any of the forensics on this? When
we conducted some tests on battery feeders against
aluminum some years ago, it was difficult to get
the odd insulation failure event to precipitate
much of an energy release. The high currents
available from a battery would burn the fault open
quickly. High currents flowed for short periods
of time but cleared without much fanfare.
I'm presuming that this airplane was parked and
we're considering a piece of cable that runs between
battery(+) and the contactor. If you have a chance to
learn more about the details and any analysis that
grew out of the facts, I'd be interested in
knowing about them. Thanks for sharing this with
the List.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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Subject: | Zanon XRX antenna position |
I just purchased the Zaon XRX Portable Collision Avoidance System (PCAS) to
add traffic awareness to my cockpit. With it connected to my Garmin 396 I
want to move it (with its built in antenna) away from the recommended
glareshield mounting. For those of you with experience my question is will the
antenna work with it located other places such as below the glare shield or behind
my tip-up roll bar or on my lap (as long as it is 6" from any obstacle)? It
is a hard thing to test because it does not activate until you have climbed
200 feet and there must be another airplane nearby. I tried Zaon. They just
moved their operation and, consequently, their technical service is down for
a while.
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6, Sun 'n Fun 2006 Reserve Grand Champion Kit, 2007 Outstanding Aircraft
Homebuilt.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Switch confusion |
At 08:26 PM 5/8/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>Maybe I read it and now am forgetting (and now can't find it), but on the
>Z-14 drawings the two contactor switches that are called out are three
>position switches. Why? What are the middle positions suppossed to be
>used for? What position should be used during flight? I got my Z-14
>layout cranking my engine today (my 46th birthday <g> ) and I was tickled
>to have my Wankle rotary churning over effortlessly (just cranking, not
>yet ready for starting). However, in my use, swithing the switches all
>the way up seemed to be what activated the contactors allowing the
>cranking. Insight to what may be obvious is appreciated. TIA.
A Back in the "good 'ol days" when airplanes were getting their first
generators, batteries
and a few lights, the battery master and generator control switches could
be and were separate
switches. This is because a generator will start and run by itself whether
or not a battery was on
line to go with it. When alternators came along, they needed (and still do
need) a battery to get
them to come up reliably. Further, alternators do not run well without a
battery on line. None the
less, it was desirable to have some degree of independent control of the
battery and alternator
insofar as system performance requirements would permit. This is when the
split-rocker master
switch was conceived. This switch has acquired almost magical attributes .
. . I've seen the
red-rocker enshrined in prominent locations on the panels of many
homebuilts even when all
other switches were a different style.
A little study of the split rocker shows us that the battery can be on by
itself, but the
alternator cannot. The same functionality is provided by our DP3T, on-on-on
toggle switch
(S700-2-10). Lower position is ALL OFF, mid position is BAT ONLY, upper
position is
BAT+ALT. It's true that you could replace the S700-2-10 with an S700-2-3
and turn on BOTH
devices with a single throw of the DC master switch. It's a rare in-flight
condition that the
alternator NEEDS to be off. If you're doing some battery-only ground
maintenance, then you
could pull the breaker. We recommend the S700-2-10 as an alternative to the
split-rocker
switch to provide equivalent functionality. The three positions offer ALL
OFF, BATTERY
ONLY, and BATTERY + ALTERNATOR functionality while making sure that the
alternator is
not allowed to be ON when the battery is OFF - I.e. emulation of the split
rocker
switch.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Belden Triax vs. Coax rg58 |
At 02:24 PM 5/8/2007 -0400, you wrote:
>Glasair sells and installs Belden 9222 triax for the tail com antenna and
>for the wing tip nav antenna. Everyone says rg400 is preferred over rg58,
>but is the triax a step up from the regular rg58 coax? The triax is
>installed now for the #1 com tail antenna and nav antenna, but I bought
>more Belden 9222 triax for transponder, 2nd com, and marker antenna runs,
>should I scrap it and install rg 400?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dave Shiffer
If your connectors are compatible with the 9222, I'd
say leave it in. But I think RG-400 has superior insulation
material and is compatible with tools and connectors
designed for RG-58. I'm mystified as to why anyone would
offer this relatively odd-ball material except perhaps
for some homage being paid to a hangar-legend.
RG-400 and close cousins are the coax of choice in
the aircraft industry and recommended for all new
construction.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: RE: Low Voltage Light Flashing |
At 08:02 PM 5/8/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>Situation corrected.
>
>
>I contacted B&C this morning and talked to Tim Hedding. He didn t think
>either the alternator or regulator were defective and sent me to the
>troubleshooting guide for the LR3C. Working through the steps under the
>panel, I traced it down to a blown fuse in the power line to the alt.
>field, (pin 6) of the regulator. I had put in a 5 amp fuse instead of a
>breaker and missed this fuse in my check last night. Before installing
>another one, I ohmed the 2-10 battery/alternator switch but found no
>shorts. The rest of the troubleshoot guide was followed and all checked
>out. I restarted the plane and the system charges correctly.
>
>
>I call Tim back and said I couldn t find the short but would replace the
>switch as a precaution. Tim suggested it was unlikely to be a switch
>problem and that I may have had a temporary over voltage, which blew the 5
>amp fuse and shut the alternator down. He suggested I put in a circuit
>breaker and check for conditions that may have caused the event, which I
>will do.
???? Interesting! I'm wondering how you got a the votlage
measurement on the alternator field terminal. I'll need to
study the LR-3 schematic again and see where the "sneak path"
exists to bias up the field terminal when the field supply
lead is open. In any case, Mr. Hedding is in the best possible
position to know and he's obviously fed you good data.
This brings up another point about the Z-figures. The
circuit breaker shown on the drawings where the LR-3
is featured has a specific reason for being there even
if the rest of the airplane is protected with fuses.
When considering a departure from what's illustrated,
it's always a good idea to get on the List and make
sure that you're not overlooking something.
I'm pleased that you dodged a $time$ wasting experience
in getting this problem resolved. I learned something
too that needs to be researched and understood. Thanks
for posting this to the List.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Broken Battery |
At 10:40 AM 5/8/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>Where can I get info on how to do a Cap-Check? What equipment is
>required?
>
>I realize this is pretty basic stuff, but I am clueless.
>
>Charlie Brame
>RV-6A N11CB
>San Antonio
The simplest way is to take the time on some long VFR
day flight to put your system into the endurance mode
(turn alternator off and load shed) and see how long
it takes for your battery to get down to 10.5 volts.
This measures the time your battery is capable of
supporting the ship's most useful endurance systems.
Turn the alternator back on and it should recharge the
battery to mostly full in the next 30 minutes or so.
The preferred way is to use test equipment like:
http://westmountainradio.com/CBA_ham.htm
or
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/battest.pdf
or install our soon to be released in-situ battery
cap checker.
The point is that while everyone would like to
BELIEVE that their battery is sitting there ready
willing and able to get them comfortably on the ground,
the vast majority of batteries flying as you read
these words would probably fall short of the pilot's
fondest wishes should the alternator crap.
Goto the archives search engine at:
http://www.matronics.com/archives/
Select AeroElectric and then search for
"duration of fuel"
There a rich history of discussion on the value in
KNOWING what your battery is capable of before
you launch.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Zanon XRX antenna position |
My low end MRX with its swivel antenna needs a clear view around the
aircraft. It seems to be easy to blank the antenna or fool the range if
it gets a weak signal. Similarly it works better if the antenna is
vertical rather than almost vertical. Since it doesn't give azimuth
info, the MRX only needs the one antenna and a remote antenna cable
extension is available. I think the external antenna was as much money
as the MRX but I suspect it would enhance performance quite a bit.
Anyone try a homemade antenna?? My manual also says it needs a 200 foot
altitude change to be fully operational (I forget the details) but it
displays traffic in the circuit just fine even if I turn it on in my car
or in the open hangar. I always check it before pulling onto the runway.
For $400. I consider it almost essential for safe flight now. I'd be
interested in hearing how useful the azimuth info is on the XRX.
Ken
PeterHunt1@aol.com wrote:
> I just purchased the Zaon XRX Portable Collision Avoidance System
> (PCAS) to add traffic awareness to my cockpit. With it connected to
> my Garmin 396 I want to move it (with its built in antenna) away from
> the recommended glareshield mounting. For those of you with
> experience my question is will the antenna work with it located other
> places such as below the glare shield or behind my tip-up roll bar or
> on my lap (as long as it is 6" from any obstacle)? It is a hard thing
> to test because it does not activate until you have climbed 200 feet
> and there must be another airplane nearby. I tried Zaon. They just
> moved their operation and, consequently, their technical service is
> down for a while.
>
> Pete in Clearwater
> RV-6, Sun 'n Fun 2006 Reserve Grand Champion Kit, 2007 Outstanding
> Aircraft Homebuilt.
>
Message 9
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Subject: | connector for sl-30 |
To everyone:
I am looking to get a coax connector for an SL - 30. It is Garmin part #
162 -1008 right angle coax connector. Anyone know what connector this
is?
The dealer wanted to sell me a whole install kit.
Thanks
Ron Raby
Lancair ES
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: connector for sl-30 |
Have you tried contacting Garmin?
I wanted some individual large gauge crimp pins and Garmin furnished
them directly, rather than via a dealer.
Ron Q.
At 12:18 5/9/2007, you wrote:
>To everyone:
>
>I am looking to get a coax connector for an SL - 30. It is Garmin
>part # 162 -1008 right angle coax connector. Anyone know what
>connector this is?
>The dealer wanted to sell me a whole install kit.
>
>Thanks
>
>Ron Raby
>
>Lancair ES
>
>
Message 11
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Bob,
It is my understanding that it takes relatively few (not quantified because
I don't have a quantity) full discharges to diminish the capacity of some
types of batteries. Is this correct? Do you have any info you can add to
firm up or discredit this idea.
Does doing cap checks present any risk to the battery?
Thanks,
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
>L. Nuckolls, III
>Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:19 AM
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Broken Battery
>
>
><nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
>At 10:40 AM 5/8/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>
>>Bob,
>>
>>Where can I get info on how to do a Cap-Check? What equipment is
>>required?
>>
>>I realize this is pretty basic stuff, but I am clueless.
>>
>>Charlie Brame
>>RV-6A N11CB
>>San Antonio
>
> The simplest way is to take the time on some long VFR
> day flight to put your system into the endurance mode
> (turn alternator off and load shed) and see how long
> it takes for your battery to get down to 10.5 volts.
> This measures the time your battery is capable of
> supporting the ship's most useful endurance systems.
>
> Turn the alternator back on and it should recharge the
> battery to mostly full in the next 30 minutes or so.
> The preferred way is to use test equipment like:
>
>http://westmountainradio.com/CBA_ham.htm
>
> or
>
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/battest.pdf
>
> or install our soon to be released in-situ battery
> cap checker.
>
> The point is that while everyone would like to
> BELIEVE that their battery is sitting there ready
> willing and able to get them comfortably on the ground,
> the vast majority of batteries flying as you read
> these words would probably fall short of the pilot's
> fondest wishes should the alternator crap.
>
> Goto the archives search engine at:
>
>http://www.matronics.com/archives/
>
> Select AeroElectric and then search for
> "duration of fuel"
>
> There a rich history of discussion on the value in
> KNOWING what your battery is capable of before
> you launch.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | ectric-List:Wiring integrity!!! |
Bob,
The trike was parked. It had been on a long trip on a trailer the day
before, which may, or may not be relevant.
Investigation at the factory has shown that there is variability in the way
the wiring runs are done, with only some ships wired the way this one was.
If I can learn anymore on the forensics I will let the group know.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Thursday, 10 May 2007 12:40 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List:Wiring integrity!!!
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 07:01 PM 5/9/2007 +1000, you wrote:
>
>Hi Frank,
>
>For what it is worth, we recently had a hangar fire at our airport. The
fire
>started in a trike, which was wasted, and several other aircraft have been
>written off or seriously damaged.
>
>At this stage they believe the fire was started by the battery cable which
>was positioned across and sitting on an aluminum angle with no stand off
and
>no added protection.
>
>Regards,
>John
Have you seen any of the forensics on this? When
we conducted some tests on battery feeders against
aluminum some years ago, it was difficult to get
the odd insulation failure event to precipitate
much of an energy release. The high currents
available from a battery would burn the fault open
quickly. High currents flowed for short periods
of time but cleared without much fanfare.
I'm presuming that this airplane was parked and
we're considering a piece of cable that runs between
battery(+) and the contactor. If you have a chance to
learn more about the details and any analysis that
grew out of the facts, I'd be interested in
knowing about them. Thanks for sharing this with
the List.
Bob . . .
Message 13
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-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Broken Battery
The simplest way is to take the time on some long VFR
day flight to put your system into the endurance mode
(turn alternator off and load shed) and see how long
it takes for your battery to get down to 10.5 volts.
This measures the time your battery is capable of
supporting the ship's most useful endurance systems.
Bob,
If one is going to do what you say above, I would make sure that the
avionics switch is off and the engine is at low rpms when you turn the
alternator back on. I forgot to turn the alternator on one time, and
suddenly my radios went silent. I noticed that the alternator switch was
off, so I turned it back on. I zapped a Garmin 430 that way. Fortunately,
it was still in warranty, and they fixed it, but it surely was embarrassing
as well as potentially dangerous. I hope it never happens again, but if it
does, I will think twice about turning on the alternator while the prop is
swinging cruise rpms and the avionics switch is turned on.
Simon Ramirez, passing through Odessa, TX
Copyright C 2007
Message 14
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Subject: | Dual Voltage Operation of Ford-style Alternator |
Hi Bob,
I'm considering a slightly unusual configuration on a Lycoming IO360A installation...
12 volt alternator on a vacuum pad on the back of the engine... powers
the "essential" bus (there's a word you prefer to essential, but it's late and
I can't recall... well, I'm in Holland, too, standing up in an internet cafe,
and the wind is howling... enough excuses)
The "standard" Ford-style alternator on the front will attach to the airconditioning
(HVAC) bus... in the back of the plane, a variable voltage air conditioining
unit (Kelly Aerospace Thermawing or similar) will be powered by the HVAC
bus.
Under normal, non-cooling operation, the HVAC bus will be connected to the main
bus. The regulator will recognize this fact and regulate for nominal 14 VDC.
Both alternators will power the 14 volt systems.
When cooling is wanted (and of course loads allow for the rear mounted alternator
to carry the requirements), the breaker or contactor will be opened between
the HVAC bus and the main bus. This will also enable the regulabor to assume
28 VDC mode.
The air conditioning unit will put out some cool air at 14 volts, but twice as
much cool air at 28 volts. The unit draws 50 amps over a voltage range of 12
volts to 48 volts, and cooling output varies proportionately.
Any fatal flaw to this plan?
Assuming I use a 28 volt alternator (assume for the moment the Cessna-style Ford
Aeromotive once), should it regulate "happily" at 14 volts? I can think of
schemes to "fool" the regulator with a voltage divider connected to the A lead...
switched as required to make a 14 volt regulator think that 28 volts meets
its needs, I'm sure you have the picture.
Thoughts? I've already tried to talk the better half out of retiring to a hot
place... and am now preparing contingency plans to deal with the eventuality!
:-)
Paul, Berkeley CA (soon to be Palm Springs CA)
--------
Paul Millner, Berkeley CA [OAK]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=111939#111939
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Switch confusion |
A Mazda second gen 13b (89 - 91) turbo core (not currently turboed
though).
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Harris
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 10:56 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Switch confusion
Chris off topic . Which Wankel are you using. I ran the Norton 95HP
rotary for 3 years.
Peter
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Christopher Barber
Sent: Wednesday, 9 May 2007 11:26 AM
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switch confusion
Maybe I read it and now am forgetting (and now can't find it), but on
the Z-14 drawings the two contactor switches that are called out are
three position switches. Why? What are the middle positions suppossed
to be used for? What position should be used during flight? I got my
Z-14 layout cranking my engine today (my 46th birthday <g> ) and I was
tickled to have my Wankle rotary churning over effortlessly (just
cranking, not yet ready for starting). However, in my use, swithing the
switches all the way up seemed to be what activated the contactors
allowing the cranking. Insight to what may be obvious is appreciated.
TIA.
All the best,
Chris
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Switch confusion |
Thanks Bob, that makes sense.
We look forward to you being down here in October. Of course, I will have
made my mistakes by then <g>.
All the best,
Chris Barber, President
EAA Houston; Chapter 12
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 10:59 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch confusion
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
> At 08:26 PM 5/8/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >Maybe I read it and now am forgetting (and now can't find it), but on the
> >Z-14 drawings the two contactor switches that are called out are three
> >position switches. Why? What are the middle positions suppossed to be
> >used for? What position should be used during flight? I got my Z-14
> >layout cranking my engine today (my 46th birthday <g> ) and I was tickled
> >to have my Wankle rotary churning over effortlessly (just cranking, not
> >yet ready for starting). However, in my use, swithing the switches all
> >the way up seemed to be what activated the contactors allowing the
> >cranking. Insight to what may be obvious is appreciated. TIA.
>
>
> A Back in the "good 'ol days" when airplanes were getting their first
> generators, batteries
> and a few lights, the battery master and generator control switches could
> be and were separate
> switches. This is because a generator will start and run by itself whether
> or not a battery was on
> line to go with it. When alternators came along, they needed (and still do
> need) a battery to get
> them to come up reliably. Further, alternators do not run well without a
> battery on line. None the
> less, it was desirable to have some degree of independent control of the
> battery and alternator
> insofar as system performance requirements would permit. This is when the
> split-rocker master
> switch was conceived. This switch has acquired almost magical attributes .
> . . I've seen the
> red-rocker enshrined in prominent locations on the panels of many
> homebuilts even when all
> other switches were a different style.
>
> A little study of the split rocker shows us that the battery can be on by
> itself, but the
> alternator cannot. The same functionality is provided by our DP3T,
on-on-on
> toggle switch
> (S700-2-10). Lower position is ALL OFF, mid position is BAT ONLY, upper
> position is
> BAT+ALT. It's true that you could replace the S700-2-10 with an S700-2-3
> and turn on BOTH
> devices with a single throw of the DC master switch. It's a rare in-flight
> condition that the
> alternator NEEDS to be off. If you're doing some battery-only ground
> maintenance, then you
> could pull the breaker. We recommend the S700-2-10 as an alternative to
the
> split-rocker
> switch to provide equivalent functionality. The three positions offer ALL
> OFF, BATTERY
> ONLY, and BATTERY + ALTERNATOR functionality while making sure that the
> alternator is
> not allowed to be ON when the battery is OFF - I.e. emulation of the split
> rocker
> switch.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | 3-way connection |
Sorry if already covered.
I am looking for a simple solution to connect 3 units encoder info
together.
Ameri-King encoder + KX 76 Transponder + Garmin 300XL
I was thinking along the lines of a 15 pin connection that can be
easily disconnected if needed.
Ed
Message 18
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Subject: | SPDT momentary push-button switch (comm flip-flop) |
I plan to install a comm flip-flop pushbutton switch in a wood grip from
"Custom Aircraft Grips" in Kelso, WA. I have a King KX 155 nav/comm
which requires a SPDT momentary switch for this feature vs. the SPST
switch that was supplied with the grip. The bore diameter in the grip
for the switch is 11/32". I appreciate any leads that are provided
regarding a source for this switch. Thanks.
Bill Gill
RV-7 finishing
Lees Summit, MO.
Message 19
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Subject: | Switch confusion/ off topic |
That will be faster than the Norton <G> The Norton sounded great into a
megaphone.
Peter
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Christopher Barber
Sent: Thursday, 10 May 2007 8:24 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch confusion
A Mazda second gen 13b (89 - 91) turbo core (not currently turboed though).
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter <mailto:peterjfharris@bigpond.com> Harris
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 10:56 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Switch confusion
Chris off topic . Which Wankel are you using. I ran the Norton 95HP rotary
for 3 years.
Peter
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Christopher Barber
Sent: Wednesday, 9 May 2007 11:26 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switch confusion
Maybe I read it and now am forgetting (and now can't find it), but on the
Z-14 drawings the two contactor switches that are called out are three
position switches. Why? What are the middle positions suppossed to be used
for? What position should be used during flight? I got my Z-14 layout
cranking my engine today (my 46th birthday <g> ) and I was tickled to have
my Wankle rotary churning over effortlessly (just cranking, not yet ready
for starting). However, in my use, swithing the switches all the way up
seemed to be what activated the contactors allowing the cranking. Insight
to what may be obvious is appreciated. TIA.
All the best,
Chris
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 20
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Subject: | Jabiru EI pick up |
Hi again,
I have been experimenting with an inductive pick up mounted in place of one
of the magneto coils on the Jab 3300 and can produce a big fat spark at hand
propping speed using a simple electronic ignition module and an automotive
coil feeding the Jab distributor. (I suspect the original Jab magnetos were
intended to drive just one plug not six through a distributor.) I have been
able to increase plug gap to 1.0mm and cold starting is solved plus better
spark through the power range. The signal from this sensor is about 4 VAC at
idle.
But at the higher power settings there is a problem caused by the pick up
sometimes firing in advance maybe from the leading edge of the three fly
wheel magnets. These magnets are also each divided into 3 segments with an
1/8" air gap between them. The end result is spurious unwanted firing. (Only
the advanced firing can be detected in flight but it may be firing off the
air gaps as well.) Of course the flywheel magnets are meant to excite a
magneto not an inductive sensor, but if it can be made to work it is a very
simple and effective improvement to ignition.
I have run the system using the original magneto primary as a signal source
for the ignition module but the advantage of a big spark with small
movements is lost. (The magneto primary has a transistor which will fire
only when primary voltage reaches a set limit at about 270 rpm.)
It can be solved by increasing the gap clearance to as much as 12mm but then
the advantage of hand propping is lost. Although cold starting is still fine
I am wondering if the power spark is as good as it could be at this gap
setting..
At this stage I have removed the magnet from the inductive pick up and
fitted a steel shield across the span of the magnets at the installation and
still getting a very strong signal but still have the unwanted firing. I
have no access to an oscilloscope.
Next experiment will be with the use of diodes in the signal leads.
But does anyone have a suggestion how to solve this ? I will want to use the
pickup for the EFI conversion later.
Thanks
Peter
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