AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Wed 05/09/07


Total Messages Posted: 20



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 02:03 AM - Re: Wiring integrity!!! (RV_10)
     2. 06:43 AM - Re: Wiring integrity!!! (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     3. 08:12 AM - Zanon XRX antenna position (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
     4. 08:12 AM - Re: Switch confusion (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     5. 08:15 AM - Re: Belden Triax vs. Coax rg58 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     6. 08:16 AM - Re: Re: Low Voltage Light Flashing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     7. 08:27 AM - Re: Broken Battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     8. 11:21 AM - Re: Zanon XRX antenna position (Ken)
     9. 11:22 AM - connector for sl-30 (Ron Raby)
    10. 12:39 PM - Re: connector for sl-30 (Ron Quillin)
    11. 12:53 PM - Re: Broken Battery (raymondj)
    12. 01:45 PM - Re: Wiring integrity!!! (RV_10)
    13. 02:07 PM - Re: Broken Battery (S. Ramirez)
    14. 03:16 PM - Dual Voltage Operation of Ford-style Alternator (paulmillner)
    15. 03:24 PM - Re: Switch confusion (Christopher Barber)
    16. 03:39 PM - Re: Switch confusion (Christopher Barber)
    17. 04:32 PM - 3-way connection (Edward Christian)
    18. 07:36 PM - SPDT momentary push-button switch (comm flip-flop) (William Gill)
    19. 09:47 PM - Re: Switch confusion/ off topic (Peter Harris)
    20. 11:09 PM - Jabiru EI pick up (Peter Harris)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 02:03:38 AM PST US
    From: "RV_10" <john_rv10@yahoo.com>
    Subject: ectric-List:Wiring integrity!!!
    Hi Frank, For what it is worth, we recently had a hangar fire at our airport. The fire started in a trike, which was wasted, and several other aircraft have been written off or seriously damaged. At this stage they believe the fire was started by the battery cable which was positioned across and sitting on an aluminum angle with no stand off and no added protection. Regards, John -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frank Stringham Sent: Wednesday, 9 May 2007 9:57 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List:Wiring integrity!!! <fstringham@hotmail.com> A Cessna 210 on a flight from San Antonio to Seattle when his distress call said smoke in the cabin. The sad out come was the pilot lost control and crashed near Springville, Utah. Now i know that there are other causes of smoke but it raised my concern of eletrical fires. I am wiring my plane according Z-13/8. Now the question: What are the usual failure points that cause electrical fires? in aircraft wiring systems? I know this is pretty open ended and I must also admit that I haven't done a search yet so if you want to with hold until I have done my home work that is fine but if you have some pearls of wisdom .......please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Frank @ SGU RV7A "NDY" Panel / electrical..... _________________________________________________________________ More photos, more messages, more storage-get 2GB with Windows Live Hotmail.


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:43:11 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: ectric-List:Wiring integrity!!!
    At 07:01 PM 5/9/2007 +1000, you wrote: > >Hi Frank, > >For what it is worth, we recently had a hangar fire at our airport. The fire >started in a trike, which was wasted, and several other aircraft have been >written off or seriously damaged. > >At this stage they believe the fire was started by the battery cable which >was positioned across and sitting on an aluminum angle with no stand off and >no added protection. > >Regards, >John Have you seen any of the forensics on this? When we conducted some tests on battery feeders against aluminum some years ago, it was difficult to get the odd insulation failure event to precipitate much of an energy release. The high currents available from a battery would burn the fault open quickly. High currents flowed for short periods of time but cleared without much fanfare. I'm presuming that this airplane was parked and we're considering a piece of cable that runs between battery(+) and the contactor. If you have a chance to learn more about the details and any analysis that grew out of the facts, I'd be interested in knowing about them. Thanks for sharing this with the List. Bob . . .


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:12:05 AM PST US
    From: PeterHunt1@aol.com
    Subject: Zanon XRX antenna position
    I just purchased the Zaon XRX Portable Collision Avoidance System (PCAS) to add traffic awareness to my cockpit. With it connected to my Garmin 396 I want to move it (with its built in antenna) away from the recommended glareshield mounting. For those of you with experience my question is will the antenna work with it located other places such as below the glare shield or behind my tip-up roll bar or on my lap (as long as it is 6" from any obstacle)? It is a hard thing to test because it does not activate until you have climbed 200 feet and there must be another airplane nearby. I tried Zaon. They just moved their operation and, consequently, their technical service is down for a while. Pete in Clearwater RV-6, Sun 'n Fun 2006 Reserve Grand Champion Kit, 2007 Outstanding Aircraft Homebuilt. ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:12:12 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Switch confusion
    At 08:26 PM 5/8/2007 -0500, you wrote: >Maybe I read it and now am forgetting (and now can't find it), but on the >Z-14 drawings the two contactor switches that are called out are three >position switches. Why? What are the middle positions suppossed to be >used for? What position should be used during flight? I got my Z-14 >layout cranking my engine today (my 46th birthday <g> ) and I was tickled >to have my Wankle rotary churning over effortlessly (just cranking, not >yet ready for starting). However, in my use, swithing the switches all >the way up seemed to be what activated the contactors allowing the >cranking. Insight to what may be obvious is appreciated. TIA. A Back in the "good 'ol days" when airplanes were getting their first generators, batteries and a few lights, the battery master and generator control switches could be and were separate switches. This is because a generator will start and run by itself whether or not a battery was on line to go with it. When alternators came along, they needed (and still do need) a battery to get them to come up reliably. Further, alternators do not run well without a battery on line. None the less, it was desirable to have some degree of independent control of the battery and alternator insofar as system performance requirements would permit. This is when the split-rocker master switch was conceived. This switch has acquired almost magical attributes . . . I've seen the red-rocker enshrined in prominent locations on the panels of many homebuilts even when all other switches were a different style. A little study of the split rocker shows us that the battery can be on by itself, but the alternator cannot. The same functionality is provided by our DP3T, on-on-on toggle switch (S700-2-10). Lower position is ALL OFF, mid position is BAT ONLY, upper position is BAT+ALT. It's true that you could replace the S700-2-10 with an S700-2-3 and turn on BOTH devices with a single throw of the DC master switch. It's a rare in-flight condition that the alternator NEEDS to be off. If you're doing some battery-only ground maintenance, then you could pull the breaker. We recommend the S700-2-10 as an alternative to the split-rocker switch to provide equivalent functionality. The three positions offer ALL OFF, BATTERY ONLY, and BATTERY + ALTERNATOR functionality while making sure that the alternator is not allowed to be ON when the battery is OFF - I.e. emulation of the split rocker switch. Bob . . .


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:15:02 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Belden Triax vs. Coax rg58
    At 02:24 PM 5/8/2007 -0400, you wrote: >Glasair sells and installs Belden 9222 triax for the tail com antenna and >for the wing tip nav antenna. Everyone says rg400 is preferred over rg58, >but is the triax a step up from the regular rg58 coax? The triax is >installed now for the #1 com tail antenna and nav antenna, but I bought >more Belden 9222 triax for transponder, 2nd com, and marker antenna runs, >should I scrap it and install rg 400? > >Thanks, > >Dave Shiffer If your connectors are compatible with the 9222, I'd say leave it in. But I think RG-400 has superior insulation material and is compatible with tools and connectors designed for RG-58. I'm mystified as to why anyone would offer this relatively odd-ball material except perhaps for some homage being paid to a hangar-legend. RG-400 and close cousins are the coax of choice in the aircraft industry and recommended for all new construction. Bob . . . ---------------------------------------- ( IF one aspires to be "world class", ) ( what ever you do must be exercised ) ( EVERY day . . . ) ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:16:12 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: RE: Low Voltage Light Flashing
    At 08:02 PM 5/8/2007 -0500, you wrote: >Situation corrected. > > >I contacted B&C this morning and talked to Tim Hedding. He didn t think >either the alternator or regulator were defective and sent me to the >troubleshooting guide for the LR3C. Working through the steps under the >panel, I traced it down to a blown fuse in the power line to the alt. >field, (pin 6) of the regulator. I had put in a 5 amp fuse instead of a >breaker and missed this fuse in my check last night. Before installing >another one, I ohmed the 2-10 battery/alternator switch but found no >shorts. The rest of the troubleshoot guide was followed and all checked >out. I restarted the plane and the system charges correctly. > > >I call Tim back and said I couldn t find the short but would replace the >switch as a precaution. Tim suggested it was unlikely to be a switch >problem and that I may have had a temporary over voltage, which blew the 5 >amp fuse and shut the alternator down. He suggested I put in a circuit >breaker and check for conditions that may have caused the event, which I >will do. ???? Interesting! I'm wondering how you got a the votlage measurement on the alternator field terminal. I'll need to study the LR-3 schematic again and see where the "sneak path" exists to bias up the field terminal when the field supply lead is open. In any case, Mr. Hedding is in the best possible position to know and he's obviously fed you good data. This brings up another point about the Z-figures. The circuit breaker shown on the drawings where the LR-3 is featured has a specific reason for being there even if the rest of the airplane is protected with fuses. When considering a departure from what's illustrated, it's always a good idea to get on the List and make sure that you're not overlooking something. I'm pleased that you dodged a $time$ wasting experience in getting this problem resolved. I learned something too that needs to be researched and understood. Thanks for posting this to the List. Bob . . . ---------------------------------------- ( IF one aspires to be "world class", ) ( what ever you do must be exercised ) ( EVERY day . . . ) ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:27:13 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Broken Battery
    At 10:40 AM 5/8/2007 -0500, you wrote: > >Bob, > >Where can I get info on how to do a Cap-Check? What equipment is >required? > >I realize this is pretty basic stuff, but I am clueless. > >Charlie Brame >RV-6A N11CB >San Antonio The simplest way is to take the time on some long VFR day flight to put your system into the endurance mode (turn alternator off and load shed) and see how long it takes for your battery to get down to 10.5 volts. This measures the time your battery is capable of supporting the ship's most useful endurance systems. Turn the alternator back on and it should recharge the battery to mostly full in the next 30 minutes or so. The preferred way is to use test equipment like: http://westmountainradio.com/CBA_ham.htm or http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/battest.pdf or install our soon to be released in-situ battery cap checker. The point is that while everyone would like to BELIEVE that their battery is sitting there ready willing and able to get them comfortably on the ground, the vast majority of batteries flying as you read these words would probably fall short of the pilot's fondest wishes should the alternator crap. Goto the archives search engine at: http://www.matronics.com/archives/ Select AeroElectric and then search for "duration of fuel" There a rich history of discussion on the value in KNOWING what your battery is capable of before you launch. Bob . . .


    Message 8


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    Time: 11:21:24 AM PST US
    From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
    Subject: Re: Zanon XRX antenna position
    My low end MRX with its swivel antenna needs a clear view around the aircraft. It seems to be easy to blank the antenna or fool the range if it gets a weak signal. Similarly it works better if the antenna is vertical rather than almost vertical. Since it doesn't give azimuth info, the MRX only needs the one antenna and a remote antenna cable extension is available. I think the external antenna was as much money as the MRX but I suspect it would enhance performance quite a bit. Anyone try a homemade antenna?? My manual also says it needs a 200 foot altitude change to be fully operational (I forget the details) but it displays traffic in the circuit just fine even if I turn it on in my car or in the open hangar. I always check it before pulling onto the runway. For $400. I consider it almost essential for safe flight now. I'd be interested in hearing how useful the azimuth info is on the XRX. Ken PeterHunt1@aol.com wrote: > I just purchased the Zaon XRX Portable Collision Avoidance System > (PCAS) to add traffic awareness to my cockpit. With it connected to > my Garmin 396 I want to move it (with its built in antenna) away from > the recommended glareshield mounting. For those of you with > experience my question is will the antenna work with it located other > places such as below the glare shield or behind my tip-up roll bar or > on my lap (as long as it is 6" from any obstacle)? It is a hard thing > to test because it does not activate until you have climbed 200 feet > and there must be another airplane nearby. I tried Zaon. They just > moved their operation and, consequently, their technical service is > down for a while. > > Pete in Clearwater > RV-6, Sun 'n Fun 2006 Reserve Grand Champion Kit, 2007 Outstanding > Aircraft Homebuilt. >


    Message 9


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    Time: 11:22:57 AM PST US
    From: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com>
    Subject: connector for sl-30
    To everyone: I am looking to get a coax connector for an SL - 30. It is Garmin part # 162 -1008 right angle coax connector. Anyone know what connector this is? The dealer wanted to sell me a whole install kit. Thanks Ron Raby Lancair ES


    Message 10


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    Time: 12:39:33 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: connector for sl-30
    From: Ron Quillin <rjquillin@gmail.com>
    Have you tried contacting Garmin? I wanted some individual large gauge crimp pins and Garmin furnished them directly, rather than via a dealer. Ron Q. At 12:18 5/9/2007, you wrote: >To everyone: > >I am looking to get a coax connector for an SL - 30. It is Garmin >part # 162 -1008 right angle coax connector. Anyone know what >connector this is? >The dealer wanted to sell me a whole install kit. > >Thanks > >Ron Raby > >Lancair ES > >


    Message 11


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    Time: 12:53:33 PM PST US
    From: "raymondj" <raymondj@frontiernet.net>
    Subject: Broken Battery
    Bob, It is my understanding that it takes relatively few (not quantified because I don't have a quantity) full discharges to diminish the capacity of some types of batteries. Is this correct? Do you have any info you can add to firm up or discredit this idea. Does doing cap checks present any risk to the battery? Thanks, Raymond Julian Kettle River, MN >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert >L. Nuckolls, III >Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:19 AM >To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Broken Battery > > ><nuckollsr@cox.net> > >At 10:40 AM 5/8/2007 -0500, you wrote: > >> >>Bob, >> >>Where can I get info on how to do a Cap-Check? What equipment is >>required? >> >>I realize this is pretty basic stuff, but I am clueless. >> >>Charlie Brame >>RV-6A N11CB >>San Antonio > > The simplest way is to take the time on some long VFR > day flight to put your system into the endurance mode > (turn alternator off and load shed) and see how long > it takes for your battery to get down to 10.5 volts. > This measures the time your battery is capable of > supporting the ship's most useful endurance systems. > > Turn the alternator back on and it should recharge the > battery to mostly full in the next 30 minutes or so. > The preferred way is to use test equipment like: > >http://westmountainradio.com/CBA_ham.htm > > or > >http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/battest.pdf > > or install our soon to be released in-situ battery > cap checker. > > The point is that while everyone would like to > BELIEVE that their battery is sitting there ready > willing and able to get them comfortably on the ground, > the vast majority of batteries flying as you read > these words would probably fall short of the pilot's > fondest wishes should the alternator crap. > > Goto the archives search engine at: > >http://www.matronics.com/archives/ > > Select AeroElectric and then search for > "duration of fuel" > > There a rich history of discussion on the value in > KNOWING what your battery is capable of before > you launch. > > Bob . . . > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 01:45:43 PM PST US
    From: "RV_10" <john_rv10@yahoo.com>
    Subject: ectric-List:Wiring integrity!!!
    Bob, The trike was parked. It had been on a long trip on a trailer the day before, which may, or may not be relevant. Investigation at the factory has shown that there is variability in the way the wiring runs are done, with only some ships wired the way this one was. If I can learn anymore on the forensics I will let the group know. John -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: Thursday, 10 May 2007 12:40 AM Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List:Wiring integrity!!! <nuckollsr@cox.net> At 07:01 PM 5/9/2007 +1000, you wrote: > >Hi Frank, > >For what it is worth, we recently had a hangar fire at our airport. The fire >started in a trike, which was wasted, and several other aircraft have been >written off or seriously damaged. > >At this stage they believe the fire was started by the battery cable which >was positioned across and sitting on an aluminum angle with no stand off and >no added protection. > >Regards, >John Have you seen any of the forensics on this? When we conducted some tests on battery feeders against aluminum some years ago, it was difficult to get the odd insulation failure event to precipitate much of an energy release. The high currents available from a battery would burn the fault open quickly. High currents flowed for short periods of time but cleared without much fanfare. I'm presuming that this airplane was parked and we're considering a piece of cable that runs between battery(+) and the contactor. If you have a chance to learn more about the details and any analysis that grew out of the facts, I'd be interested in knowing about them. Thanks for sharing this with the List. Bob . . .


    Message 13


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    Time: 02:07:24 PM PST US
    From: "S. Ramirez" <simon@synchronousdesign.com>
    Subject: Broken Battery
    -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:19 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Broken Battery The simplest way is to take the time on some long VFR day flight to put your system into the endurance mode (turn alternator off and load shed) and see how long it takes for your battery to get down to 10.5 volts. This measures the time your battery is capable of supporting the ship's most useful endurance systems. Bob, If one is going to do what you say above, I would make sure that the avionics switch is off and the engine is at low rpms when you turn the alternator back on. I forgot to turn the alternator on one time, and suddenly my radios went silent. I noticed that the alternator switch was off, so I turned it back on. I zapped a Garmin 430 that way. Fortunately, it was still in warranty, and they fixed it, but it surely was embarrassing as well as potentially dangerous. I hope it never happens again, but if it does, I will think twice about turning on the alternator while the prop is swinging cruise rpms and the avionics switch is turned on. Simon Ramirez, passing through Odessa, TX Copyright C 2007


    Message 14


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    Time: 03:16:57 PM PST US
    Subject: Dual Voltage Operation of Ford-style Alternator
    From: "paulmillner" <paulmillner@compuserve.com>
    Hi Bob, I'm considering a slightly unusual configuration on a Lycoming IO360A installation... 12 volt alternator on a vacuum pad on the back of the engine... powers the "essential" bus (there's a word you prefer to essential, but it's late and I can't recall... well, I'm in Holland, too, standing up in an internet cafe, and the wind is howling... enough excuses) The "standard" Ford-style alternator on the front will attach to the airconditioning (HVAC) bus... in the back of the plane, a variable voltage air conditioining unit (Kelly Aerospace Thermawing or similar) will be powered by the HVAC bus. Under normal, non-cooling operation, the HVAC bus will be connected to the main bus. The regulator will recognize this fact and regulate for nominal 14 VDC. Both alternators will power the 14 volt systems. When cooling is wanted (and of course loads allow for the rear mounted alternator to carry the requirements), the breaker or contactor will be opened between the HVAC bus and the main bus. This will also enable the regulabor to assume 28 VDC mode. The air conditioning unit will put out some cool air at 14 volts, but twice as much cool air at 28 volts. The unit draws 50 amps over a voltage range of 12 volts to 48 volts, and cooling output varies proportionately. Any fatal flaw to this plan? Assuming I use a 28 volt alternator (assume for the moment the Cessna-style Ford Aeromotive once), should it regulate "happily" at 14 volts? I can think of schemes to "fool" the regulator with a voltage divider connected to the A lead... switched as required to make a 14 volt regulator think that 28 volts meets its needs, I'm sure you have the picture. Thoughts? I've already tried to talk the better half out of retiring to a hot place... and am now preparing contingency plans to deal with the eventuality! :-) Paul, Berkeley CA (soon to be Palm Springs CA) -------- Paul Millner, Berkeley CA [OAK] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=111939#111939


    Message 15


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    Time: 03:24:06 PM PST US
    From: "Christopher Barber" <CBarber@TexasAttorney.net>
    Subject: Re: Switch confusion
    A Mazda second gen 13b (89 - 91) turbo core (not currently turboed though). ----- Original Message ----- From: Peter Harris To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 10:56 PM Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Switch confusion Chris off topic . Which Wankel are you using. I ran the Norton 95HP rotary for 3 years. Peter ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Christopher Barber Sent: Wednesday, 9 May 2007 11:26 AM To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switch confusion Maybe I read it and now am forgetting (and now can't find it), but on the Z-14 drawings the two contactor switches that are called out are three position switches. Why? What are the middle positions suppossed to be used for? What position should be used during flight? I got my Z-14 layout cranking my engine today (my 46th birthday <g> ) and I was tickled to have my Wankle rotary churning over effortlessly (just cranking, not yet ready for starting). However, in my use, swithing the switches all the way up seemed to be what activated the contactors allowing the cranking. Insight to what may be obvious is appreciated. TIA. All the best, Chris


    Message 16


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    Time: 03:39:03 PM PST US
    From: "Christopher Barber" <CBarber@TexasAttorney.net>
    Subject: Re: Switch confusion
    Thanks Bob, that makes sense. We look forward to you being down here in October. Of course, I will have made my mistakes by then <g>. All the best, Chris Barber, President EAA Houston; Chapter 12 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 10:59 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch confusion <nuckollsr@cox.net> > > At 08:26 PM 5/8/2007 -0500, you wrote: > > >Maybe I read it and now am forgetting (and now can't find it), but on the > >Z-14 drawings the two contactor switches that are called out are three > >position switches. Why? What are the middle positions suppossed to be > >used for? What position should be used during flight? I got my Z-14 > >layout cranking my engine today (my 46th birthday <g> ) and I was tickled > >to have my Wankle rotary churning over effortlessly (just cranking, not > >yet ready for starting). However, in my use, swithing the switches all > >the way up seemed to be what activated the contactors allowing the > >cranking. Insight to what may be obvious is appreciated. TIA. > > > A Back in the "good 'ol days" when airplanes were getting their first > generators, batteries > and a few lights, the battery master and generator control switches could > be and were separate > switches. This is because a generator will start and run by itself whether > or not a battery was on > line to go with it. When alternators came along, they needed (and still do > need) a battery to get > them to come up reliably. Further, alternators do not run well without a > battery on line. None the > less, it was desirable to have some degree of independent control of the > battery and alternator > insofar as system performance requirements would permit. This is when the > split-rocker master > switch was conceived. This switch has acquired almost magical attributes . > . . I've seen the > red-rocker enshrined in prominent locations on the panels of many > homebuilts even when all > other switches were a different style. > > A little study of the split rocker shows us that the battery can be on by > itself, but the > alternator cannot. The same functionality is provided by our DP3T, on-on-on > toggle switch > (S700-2-10). Lower position is ALL OFF, mid position is BAT ONLY, upper > position is > BAT+ALT. It's true that you could replace the S700-2-10 with an S700-2-3 > and turn on BOTH > devices with a single throw of the DC master switch. It's a rare in-flight > condition that the > alternator NEEDS to be off. If you're doing some battery-only ground > maintenance, then you > could pull the breaker. We recommend the S700-2-10 as an alternative to the > split-rocker > switch to provide equivalent functionality. The three positions offer ALL > OFF, BATTERY > ONLY, and BATTERY + ALTERNATOR functionality while making sure that the > alternator is > not allowed to be ON when the battery is OFF - I.e. emulation of the split > rocker > switch. > > Bob . . . > >


    Message 17


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    Time: 04:32:52 PM PST US
    From: Edward Christian <edchristian@knology.net>
    Subject: 3-way connection
    Sorry if already covered. I am looking for a simple solution to connect 3 units encoder info together. Ameri-King encoder + KX 76 Transponder + Garmin 300XL I was thinking along the lines of a 15 pin connection that can be easily disconnected if needed. Ed


    Message 18


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    Time: 07:36:47 PM PST US
    From: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
    Subject: SPDT momentary push-button switch (comm flip-flop)
    I plan to install a comm flip-flop pushbutton switch in a wood grip from "Custom Aircraft Grips" in Kelso, WA. I have a King KX 155 nav/comm which requires a SPDT momentary switch for this feature vs. the SPST switch that was supplied with the grip. The bore diameter in the grip for the switch is 11/32". I appreciate any leads that are provided regarding a source for this switch. Thanks. Bill Gill RV-7 finishing Lees Summit, MO.


    Message 19


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    Time: 09:47:10 PM PST US
    From: "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris@bigpond.com>
    Subject: Switch confusion/ off topic
    That will be faster than the Norton <G> The Norton sounded great into a megaphone. Peter _____ From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Christopher Barber Sent: Thursday, 10 May 2007 8:24 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch confusion A Mazda second gen 13b (89 - 91) turbo core (not currently turboed though). ----- Original Message ----- From: Peter <mailto:peterjfharris@bigpond.com> Harris Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 10:56 PM Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Switch confusion Chris off topic . Which Wankel are you using. I ran the Norton 95HP rotary for 3 years. Peter _____ From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Christopher Barber Sent: Wednesday, 9 May 2007 11:26 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switch confusion Maybe I read it and now am forgetting (and now can't find it), but on the Z-14 drawings the two contactor switches that are called out are three position switches. Why? What are the middle positions suppossed to be used for? What position should be used during flight? I got my Z-14 layout cranking my engine today (my 46th birthday <g> ) and I was tickled to have my Wankle rotary churning over effortlessly (just cranking, not yet ready for starting). However, in my use, swithing the switches all the way up seemed to be what activated the contactors allowing the cranking. Insight to what may be obvious is appreciated. TIA. All the best, Chris href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matro nics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com


    Message 20


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    Time: 11:09:27 PM PST US
    From: "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris@bigpond.com>
    Subject: Jabiru EI pick up
    Hi again, I have been experimenting with an inductive pick up mounted in place of one of the magneto coils on the Jab 3300 and can produce a big fat spark at hand propping speed using a simple electronic ignition module and an automotive coil feeding the Jab distributor. (I suspect the original Jab magnetos were intended to drive just one plug not six through a distributor.) I have been able to increase plug gap to 1.0mm and cold starting is solved plus better spark through the power range. The signal from this sensor is about 4 VAC at idle. But at the higher power settings there is a problem caused by the pick up sometimes firing in advance maybe from the leading edge of the three fly wheel magnets. These magnets are also each divided into 3 segments with an 1/8" air gap between them. The end result is spurious unwanted firing. (Only the advanced firing can be detected in flight but it may be firing off the air gaps as well.) Of course the flywheel magnets are meant to excite a magneto not an inductive sensor, but if it can be made to work it is a very simple and effective improvement to ignition. I have run the system using the original magneto primary as a signal source for the ignition module but the advantage of a big spark with small movements is lost. (The magneto primary has a transistor which will fire only when primary voltage reaches a set limit at about 270 rpm.) It can be solved by increasing the gap clearance to as much as 12mm but then the advantage of hand propping is lost. Although cold starting is still fine I am wondering if the power spark is as good as it could be at this gap setting.. At this stage I have removed the magnet from the inductive pick up and fitted a steel shield across the span of the magnets at the installation and still getting a very strong signal but still have the unwanted firing. I have no access to an oscilloscope. Next experiment will be with the use of diodes in the signal leads. But does anyone have a suggestion how to solve this ? I will want to use the pickup for the EFI conversion later. Thanks Peter




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