Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:50 AM - Re: Connetor Shells-Loctite (John Coloccia)
2. 04:48 AM - Re: Connetor Shells-Loctite (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 05:57 AM - Re: Connetor Shells-Loctite (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 06:07 AM - Re: Connetor Shells-Loctite (Ernest Christley)
5. 06:31 AM - Re: Avionics Master (Greg Vouga)
6. 06:49 AM - Re: Avionics Master (Reggie DeLoach)
7. 07:27 AM - Re: Avionics Master (Mike)
8. 08:00 AM - Re: Avionics Master (Matt Prather)
9. 08:12 AM - Re: Avionics Master (Ron Quillin)
10. 08:34 AM - Re: Avionics Master (john@ballofshame.com)
11. 09:24 AM - Re: Avionics Master (Reggie DeLoach)
12. 11:14 AM - Re: Avionics Master (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 11:26 AM - Re: Avionics Master (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 11:28 AM - Re: Avionics Master (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 11:34 AM - Re: Avionics Master (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 11:37 AM - Blowing fuses (Glaeser, Dennis A)
17. 11:56 AM - Re: Avionics Master (to be or not to be) ()
18. 12:17 PM - Circuit Protection upstream of crowbar module (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 12:31 PM - Re: Blowing fuses (john@ballofshame.com)
20. 12:31 PM - Re: Re: Avionics Master (to be or not to be) (Chuck Jensen)
21. 01:11 PM - AeroFlash Service (David & Elaine Lamphere)
22. 02:01 PM - Re: AeroFlash Service (Dale Ensing)
23. 03:25 PM - Re: Blowing fuses (glaesers)
24. 03:58 PM - GS-Air Strobe Current 6 Amps (Dennis Johnson)
25. 04:58 PM - Re: Re: Avionics Master (to be or not to be) (Bill Denton)
26. 05:40 PM - Re: GS-Air Strobe Current 6 Amps (Terry Miles)
27. 06:10 PM - Re: Re: Blowing fuses (Ed Anderson)
28. 08:21 PM - Comm and Intercom Interconnection: Expected Results? (r falstad)
29. 09:24 PM - Re: GS-Air Strobe Current 6 Amps (Christopher Barber)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Connetor Shells-Loctite |
I wouldn't loctite them. The screws they come with are quite crappy and
you run the real risk of stripping the heads just trying to get them out
again. The screws are light so I'd be surprised if they'd loosen on
their own, even under heavy vibration. So maybe I'm missing something
here but my gut would say just cinch them down and call it a day.
I wonder what A&P's are trained to do? I wonder what Bob and Stein do?
hmmmmmm.
-John
www.ballofshame.com
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
> Question on keeping the screws and nuts from coming apart on the DB-25 and
> computer style connector shells and wire clamps. I tried some blue locktite
> and it seemed to work fine but I was wondering if Locktite is needed or if
> just installing the screws and nuts dry (but tight) is sufficient? Seems
> trivial but I don't want the hardware coming apart and falling into my lap
> while I'm flying (and I don't want to have to crawl up behind the panel to
> put things back together once the airplane is finished).
>
> Also, following Bob's tenet of not using wire smaller than AWG-22 has left
> me with some large bundles coming out of the DB-25 connectors, especially on
> the back of the VOR/ILS indicator and the Dynon EFIS. I couldn't use the
> supplied bundle clamp/strain reliever because the bundle was too large so I
> ended up using half the clamp and a tie wrap through the two screw holes for
> strain relief. I wrapped some vinyl tape around the bundle at that point to
> stave off chaffing the Tefzel insulation of the bundle. Seems kind of
> kludgey to me though, any words of wisdom on good ways to protect the
> bundles inside the connectors while providing decent strain relief? Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Installing radio harnesses
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Connetor Shells-Loctite |
At 11:40 PM 5/14/2007 -0400, you wrote:
><dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
>Question on keeping the screws and nuts from coming apart on the DB-25 and
>computer style connector shells and wire clamps. I tried some blue locktite
>and it seemed to work fine but I was wondering if Locktite is needed or if
>just installing the screws and nuts dry (but tight) is sufficient? Seems
>trivial but I don't want the hardware coming apart and falling into my lap
>while I'm flying (and I don't want to have to crawl up behind the panel to
>put things back together once the airplane is finished).
We've used D-Subs on the airplanes and our targets for
as long as anyone can remember and we've never "secured"
the mating screws beyond snugging them up dry.
The screw mass is exceedingly small and the thread pitch
very flat (40 tpi) so any tendency to loosen under vibration
is simply too small to overcome friction.
>Also, following Bob's tenet of not using wire smaller than AWG-22 has left
>me with some large bundles coming out of the DB-25 connectors, especially on
>the back of the VOR/ILS indicator and the Dynon EFIS. I couldn't use the
>supplied bundle clamp/strain reliever because the bundle was too large so I
>ended up using half the clamp and a tie wrap through the two screw holes for
>strain relief. I wrapped some vinyl tape around the bundle at that point to
>stave off chaffing the Tefzel insulation of the bundle. Seems kind of
>kludgey to me though, any words of wisdom on good ways to protect the
>bundles inside the connectors while providing decent strain relief? Thanks.
Leave the clamp hardware off. Wrap the bundle with silicone rubber
tape like:
http://tinyurl.com/32uywo
Put enough tape around the wires that the backshell halves
put a grip on the bundle when assembled to the connector.
Finally, the notion of avoiding 24AWG wire is strongest
for airframe systems were individual small wires are routed
around the airplane for various tasks. If you're building
short bundles of multiple wires for avionics, 24AWG
is fine if you're comfortable with it. It's generally to
flexible to allow seating a d-sub pin in the housing by
pushing on the wire. You'll probably have to use the insertion
tool to seat pins.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Connetor Shells-Loctite |
>
> Leave the clamp hardware off. Wrap the bundle with silicone rubber
> tape like:
>
>http://tinyurl.com/32uywo
>
> Put enough tape around the wires that the backshell halves
> put a grip on the bundle when assembled to the connector.
See also:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Connetor Shells-Loctite |
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
> Question on keeping the screws and nuts from coming apart on the DB-25 and
> computer style connector shells and wire clamps. I tried some blue locktite
> and it seemed to work fine but I was wondering if Locktite is needed or if
> just installing the screws and nuts dry (but tight) is sufficient? Seems
> trivial but I don't want the hardware coming apart and falling into my lap
> while I'm flying (and I don't want to have to crawl up behind the panel to
> put things back together once the airplane is finished).
>
>
I bought clips that you screw onto the dSub connectors. Then a springs
holds them together. It is like the clips that used to be on the
Centronics end of your printer cable. With these, you could epoxy the
screws into place.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master |
Bob,
I wanted to use the LR-3 controller and the SD-8, but I didn't find a design
that incorporated both. So, my electrical system is kind of a combination
of Z-12 and Z-13/8. I started with the Z-12 and then removed the circuit
with the SB-1/20A alternator. Then I added the SD-8/regulator circuit from
Z-13/8.
You are right about the search engine. I actually hit send on my email and
then instantly remembered that I should have checked the archives first. Of
course, I found that this subject has been discussed several times before.
My initial reasoning was to protect my "sensitive" avionics during power
fluxuations during startup and shutdown. It seams that modern avionics
should not have this problem according to your comments in the past.
However, I am using some experimental electronics that may or may not have
gone through extensive testing for power fluxuations. I agree that the
manufacturers should have made their products robust enough, but did they?
I'm not sure we can know for sure unless someone tests the units thoroughly
either in the lab or just through normal use.
Greg
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Avionics Master
>Date: Mon, 14 May 2007 22:56:09 -0600
>
><nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
>At 07:28 PM 5/14/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>
>><gmvouga@hotmail.com>
>>
>>All,
>>
>>I'm working on my panel and I'm trying to decide if I should put an
>>Avionics Master switch. In my experience with rental planes this was nice
>>to have since there was one switch to turn everything on or off during
>>engine start or shutdown.
>>
>>Is there any reason not to add this feature? I'm planning an E-Bus and
>>Main Bus configuration similar to the Z-13/8 design.
>
> Why "similar to"? What feature do you find missing
> or performance goal that has gone lacking. Goto
>
>http://aeroelectric.com
>
> . . . and put 'avionics master' in the search box.
> After reviewing the discussions, help us out by
> citing where you perceive a return on investment for
> having the feature.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------
> ( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
> ( give some practical results, but )
> ( that's not why we do it." )
> ( )
> ( Richard P. Feynman )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Catch suspicious messages before you open themwith Windows Live Hotmail.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master |
Why can one not just use the "off/on" switch on each device ?
:}
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Vouga" <gmvouga@hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Avionics Master
<gmvouga@hotmail.com>
>
> Bob,
>
> I wanted to use the LR-3 controller and the SD-8, but I didn't find a
design
> that incorporated both. So, my electrical system is kind of a combination
> of Z-12 and Z-13/8. I started with the Z-12 and then removed the circuit
> with the SB-1/20A alternator. Then I added the SD-8/regulator circuit
from
> Z-13/8.
>
> You are right about the search engine. I actually hit send on my email
and
> then instantly remembered that I should have checked the archives first.
Of
> course, I found that this subject has been discussed several times before.
>
> My initial reasoning was to protect my "sensitive" avionics during power
> fluxuations during startup and shutdown. It seams that modern avionics
> should not have this problem according to your comments in the past.
> However, I am using some experimental electronics that may or may not have
> gone through extensive testing for power fluxuations. I agree that the
> manufacturers should have made their products robust enough, but did they?
> I'm not sure we can know for sure unless someone tests the units
thoroughly
> either in the lab or just through normal use.
>
> Greg
>
> >From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
> >To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Avionics Master
> >Date: Mon, 14 May 2007 22:56:09 -0600
> >
> ><nuckollsr@cox.net>
> >
> >At 07:28 PM 5/14/2007 -0700, you wrote:
> >
> >><gmvouga@hotmail.com>
> >>
> >>All,
> >>
> >>I'm working on my panel and I'm trying to decide if I should put an
> >>Avionics Master switch. In my experience with rental planes this was
nice
> >>to have since there was one switch to turn everything on or off during
> >>engine start or shutdown.
> >>
> >>Is there any reason not to add this feature? I'm planning an E-Bus and
> >>Main Bus configuration similar to the Z-13/8 design.
> >
> > Why "similar to"? What feature do you find missing
> > or performance goal that has gone lacking. Goto
> >
> >http://aeroelectric.com
> >
> > . . . and put 'avionics master' in the search box.
> > After reviewing the discussions, help us out by
> > citing where you perceive a return on investment for
> > having the feature.
> >
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> > ----------------------------------------
> > ( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
> > ( give some practical results, but )
> > ( that's not why we do it." )
> > ( )
> > ( Richard P. Feynman )
> > ----------------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Catch suspicious messages before you open them-with Windows Live Hotmail.
>
>
Message 7
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Check the $price$ of that on/off switch in the radio and how much it
cost to have it changed. Then you will know why you don't want to use
them all the time. The on/off switches on the radio seems to fail more
often then a standard toggle switch, especially on the Narco and king
radios.
Mike Larkin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Reggie DeLoach
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 6:49 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Avionics Master
<redeloach@fedex.com>
Why can one not just use the "off/on" switch on each device ?
:}
--
11:52 AM
Message 8
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Do they fail from operations or age?
Matt-
>
> Check the $price$ of that on/off switch in the radio and how much it
> cost to have it changed. Then you will know why you don't want to use
> them all the time. The on/off switches on the radio seems to fail more
> often then a standard toggle switch, especially on the Narco and king
> radios.
>
> Mike Larkin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Reggie DeLoach
> Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 6:49 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Avionics Master
>
> <redeloach@fedex.com>
>
> Why can one not just use the "off/on" switch on each device ?
> :}
>
>
> --
> 11:52 AM
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master |
At 06:48 5/15/2007, you wrote:
>Why can one not just use the "off/on" switch on each device ?
>:}
There some are IM's that specify the piece of equipment is not to be
energized during engine start, and is to be powered from the
"avionics" bus and turned on post start.
Lack of a power switch is also common with remotely installed boxes,
some with similar power source restrictions.
One panel mounted instrument that immediately comes to mind is the
JPI EDM series engine monitors.
There is no "off/on" switch on this device.
Ron Q.
Message 10
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I'm guessing they mostly fail from lack of use. I often wonder if ANY
switch installed in the real world has ever made it to the rated # of
cycles achieved in the manufacturer'ss accelerated life testing.
-John
www.ballofshame.com
> <mprather@spro.net>
>
> Do they fail from operations or age?
>
>
> Matt-
>
>>
>> Check the $price$ of that on/off switch in the radio and how much it
>> cost to have it changed. Then you will know why you don't want to use
>> them all the time. The on/off switches on the radio seems to fail more
>> often then a standard toggle switch, especially on the Narco and king
>> radios.
>>
>> Mike Larkin
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>> Reggie DeLoach
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 6:49 AM
>> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Avionics Master
>>
>> <redeloach@fedex.com>
>>
>> Why can one not just use the "off/on" switch on each device ?
>> :}
>>
>>
>> --
>> 11:52 AM
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master |
Thanks to all who responded!
red :} (My initials but in this case, Rookie in Early Development)
----- Original Message -----
From: <john@ballofshame.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 10:32 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Avionics Master
>
> I'm guessing they mostly fail from lack of use. I often wonder if ANY
> switch installed in the real world has ever made it to the rated # of
> cycles achieved in the manufacturer'ss accelerated life testing.
>
> -John
> www.ballofshame.com
>
> > <mprather@spro.net>
> >
> > Do they fail from operations or age?
> >
> >
> > Matt-
> >
> >>
> >> Check the $price$ of that on/off switch in the radio and how much it
> >> cost to have it changed. Then you will know why you don't want to use
> >> them all the time. The on/off switches on the radio seems to fail more
> >> often then a standard toggle switch, especially on the Narco and king
> >> radios.
> >>
> >> Mike Larkin
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> >> Reggie DeLoach
> >> Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 6:49 AM
> >> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> >> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Avionics Master
> >>
> >> <redeloach@fedex.com>
> >>
> >> Why can one not just use the "off/on" switch on each device ?
> >> :}
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> 11:52 AM
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 12
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At 08:32 AM 5/15/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>
>I'm guessing they mostly fail from lack of use. I often wonder if ANY
>switch installed in the real world has ever made it to the rated # of
>cycles achieved in the manufacturer's accelerated life testing.
Probably not. Lab tests never duplicate the combination of
stresses that over time (not operating cycles) will bring the
switch to it's knees.
Switches regularly used are happier/healthier and longer
lived than switches that sit for long periods of time unused.
I've replaced more switches that succumbed to under-use
than from wear-out.
Bob . . .
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master |
At 06:30 AM 5/15/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>I wanted to use the LR-3 controller and the SD-8, but I didn't find a
>design that incorporated both. So, my electrical system is kind of a
>combination of Z-12 and Z-13/8. I started with the Z-12 and then removed
>the circuit with the SB-1/20A alternator. Then I added the SD-8/regulator
>circuit from Z-13/8.
>You are right about the search engine. I actually hit send on my email
>and then instantly remembered that I should have checked the archives
>first. Of course, I found that this subject has been discussed several
>times before.
>
>My initial reasoning was to protect my "sensitive" avionics during power
>fluxuations during startup and shutdown. It seams that modern avionics
>should not have this problem according to your comments in the past.
>However, I am using some experimental electronics that may or may not have
>gone through extensive testing for power fluxuations. I agree that the
>manufacturers should have made their products robust enough, but did they?
Call them up and ask them. The aura that surrounds the
avionics master switch and the mythology that birthed the
thing will never go away unless responsibly skeptic
consumers drive it away.
The "spikes" from starter motors don't exist. Spikes from
starter contactors do exist but they eat up starter push buttons
and do not propagate out onto the system.
>I'm not sure we can know for sure unless someone tests the units
>thoroughly either in the lab or just through normal use.
The guy who designed the thing should KNOW what stresses
his product will stand. Further, if there are stresses that
his product will not stand, he should know how big they are
and exactly where they come from. There's no excuse for
levying a requirement on the installation of a product without
being able to support that requirement with the "numbers" and
simple ideas that support them.
Call them up. Point them to articles on the website and ask
them where they're wrong. If you don't get good (understandable)
answers, get the folks names and phone numbers and let me call
them.
Bob . . .
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master |
At 06:30 AM 5/15/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>I wanted to use the LR-3 controller and the SD-8, but I didn't find a
>design that incorporated both. So, my electrical system is kind of a
>combination of Z-12 and Z-13/8. I started with the Z-12 and then removed
>the circuit with the SB-1/20A alternator. Then I added the SD-8/regulator
>circuit from Z-13/8.
Keep in mind that the z-figures are for ARCHITECTURE and
do not necessarily drive combinations of hardware. For example,
A figure Z-13 could use an internally regulated main alternator,
an externally regulated with any regulator.
Bob . . .
Message 15
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At 10:43 PM 5/14/2007 -0700, you wrote:
><mwcreek@frontiernet.net>
>
>
>This is an excerpt from the GRT install manual referring to the use of an
>avionics master (at least that is what I read into it). Perhaps Bob can
>clear this up as it is somewhat ambiguous.
>
>Power Connections
>The display units each include 2 isolated power input connections. This
>allows redundant power sources, such as a main and secondary bus. The
>display units consume approximately 1 amp, making even a small 3 Amp-Hour
>gel cell a suitable emergency source.
>
>The configuration of the power supplied to the display unit(s) is left to
>the installer. Considerations such as the number of power buses, the desire
>or not to supply one pieceof equipment with power from redundant buses
>(which in theory allows the possibility of one device affecting both buses),
>the configuration of the electrical system with respect to backup equipment,
>and so on, may dictate the best configuration for a particular airplane.
>
>No provision is included within the display units for a power switch. If a
>power switch is desired for the EFIS, the +12V power should be controlled
>with the switch (not ground). The display units include internal
>thermally-activated fuses. This protects the equipment from internal
>electrical faults. Power supplied to the EFIS must pass through a fuse or 4
>circuit breaker or fuse. It should be sized to allow at least 1.5 amps per
>display unit, with a maximum rating of 5 amps.
>
>The AHRS and display units monitor all of their power inputs, and alarms are
>available to annunciate the loss of any power source that was provided and
>is expected to be working according to the "General Setup" menu.
>The majority of the current flow into the display unit will occur on the bus
>with thehighest voltage.
>
>It is desirable to have the display units and AHRS off during the engine
>start if all of the buses which power them are used for supplying power to
>the engine starter. This maximizes the current available for the starter,
>and may extend the life of the CCFL backlight in the display unit.
I'm skeptical of the "extended life" claim. However, any of the
z-figures offers dual feed busses. The e-bus is a dual feed bus
and addresses the reliability idea that might have driven any
form of "dual power input" scheme built into the equipment. If
the need to have the stuff powered off during cranking is real,
then one could install a normal feed switch in series with the
normal feedpath isolation diode.
Call them up and ask them which DO-160 power input protocols
are beyond their ability to tolerate. As with other cases,
if you don't get understandable answers, find out who I need
to talk to and I'll go find out what's really going on.
Bob . . .
Message 16
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Bob, et. al.,
I have a Z-19 architecture (modified a bit for a Subaru engine) with
rear mounted Odyssey batteries. I have 2 lighter receptacles on the
panel, each wired to a battery hot bus through a 10a fuse.
I put a couple of lighter plugs on my Battery Tender Jr. as a convenient
way to charge the batteries. I don't have my engine yet, to charge them
the 'proper' way.
The other night I decided to charge the batteries, because I've been
playing with my radios a bit. I inserted the charger plugs one at a
time to verify that the green light on the charger came on. When I
removed the plugs, the fuses blew! Same thing on both of them, done one
at a time. I've done this before with no problem. I double checked the
wiring, and everything is connected as desired.
I replaced the fuses, re-inserted the charger plugs, and let the
batteries charge overnight. By morning the green light on the charger
was blinking (indicating maintenance mode). I pulled the lighter plugs
out, and this time one fuse blew. I replaced the fuse and plugged
everything in again. The charger cord has a plug to allow use of
multiple ends, so this time I disconnected the lighter plugs from the
charger before removing the lighter plugs - no problem, Did that
multiple times, no problems. I haven't tried pulling the energized
lighter plugs out again (running low on fuses!).
So, obviously, my question is: why would pulling out the energized
lighter plugs cause the fuses to blow?
Dennis Glaeser
RV-7A
Rochester Hills, MI
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master (to be or not to be) |
Greg if you want a avionic master switch
by golly PUT ONE IN, and be proud and
happy, because it will work just like you
think it will and know you like.
After you plow thru all the required reading
and "data" which is really an elaborate opinion
dressed up with a bunch of gobbly-gook,
bottom line its your choice and yours alone.
Bob has good points, but there not all
quintessential or relevant. For examples
some modern avionics, like the very popular
excellent Icom A200 com radio needs to be
OFF during start! So does my old Collins
transponder. You can use the little volume/off
switch or mode switch and turn them on and
off individually, but it's a pain. Bob may call
for Icom's head and berate them for their
design, but he is not going to buy you a new
Icom when it fries. If you insist on leaving
avionics on during start it could happen. By
the way the ICOM A200 is an awesome
radio and a super value, recommend.
One big fat beautiful avionics master
switch is nice. You can of course avoid
single point failure several ways. I
think the e-bus will do it, or two
switches in parallel, even a single
throw, double pole switch would do it.
Chance is the master switch will never
fail, and once you throw that switch on
its not going to fail, my opinion. Are
you flying IFR at 18,000 ft or day/night
vfr. Just use good old common sense.
I sometimes disagree with Bob and this is
one of them. This is one of those topics
Bob has a very strong opinion on, emphasis
on opinion, but don't let any one tell you what
to do when it comes down to preference,
which this is.
All you have to know is there is NOT a good
reason for leaving an avionics master switch
out of your panel. If that is what you want, it's
very simple, you want it, put it in. It's common
and useful even today.
Is opinion & preference not safety, end of story.
Here is another professional opinion:
http://avionicswest.com/articles.htm
Scroll to the bottom, "Avionics Master
Switch" article
Good Luck, and don't over think it and
use the KISS principle.
George ATP/CFI-II-ME/MSME
>From: "Greg Vouga" <gmvouga@hotmail.com>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Avionics Master
>
>All,
>
>I'm working on my panel and I'm trying
>to decide if I should put an Avionics
>Master switch. In my experience with
>rental planes this was nice to have
>since there was one switch to turn
>everything on or off during engine start
>or shutdown.
>
>Is there any reason not to add this
>feature? I'm planning an E-Bus and
>Main Bus configuration similar to the Z-
>13/8 design.
---------------------------------
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Circuit Protection upstream of crowbar module |
>I have been comparing the opening times between ANL (Bussman) limiters and
>electromagnetic CBs from Carling.
Crowbar OV protection is always used downstream of a circuit
breaker. A quality miniature is fine.
> If they are being popped by an OV crowbar, the time delay seems to be
> related to the %overcurrent. This current will depend on the
> on-resistance of the SCR when triggered, as well as other resistanc in
> the circuit. Can you tell me what the actual overcurrent will be? From
> the delay curves for these devices it looks like 300% will give a trip
> delay of less than 100 ms.
The ship's battery will hold an alternator at bay for
seconds . . . OV trips are generally all over in 50 mS.
>Will this protect avionics, or should transorbs be used as well?
Transorbs are for transient (spike) protection. These are
short duration, very low energy events quite apart from
an OV condition caused by a runaway alternator. When used
as described in the Z-figures, crowbar ov protection will
generally produce a 100+ amp opening event on a 5A breaker
and get it open in 15-30 mS . . . plenty fast. Transorbs are
not helpful in an OV situation.
Fuses should not be used upstream of a crowbar OV system.
Use a miniature thermal breaker like:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Breakers/circuitbreakers.jpg
available at:
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?7X358218#CB1
and elsewhere.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one wishes to be "world class" at )
( anything, what ever you do must be )
( exercised EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
----------------------------------------
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Blowing fuses |
How do you know when the fuse is blowing? For example, if you plug both
in and there's a short somewhere, one fuse may blow and the other one will
look OK. The charger still sees a battery so it'll still turn green. You
unplug one (the blown one) and notice the fuse is blown. You unplug the
other one, jostle something that shorts out again, and it blows the 2nd
fuse.
I'm not suggesting this happened. I'm just curious how you determined the
timing of when the fuse actually blew. Do you see any marking on the
connectors or recepticle that would indicate an arc? Are you using a fast
or slow fuse?
Maybe there's just a small arc when you disconnect it and you have to use
a slow blow fuse? That would seem strange to me.
The most obvious answer would be that there's a short in one of the
recepticles or the plugs. That's so simple to check that it should be the
first step, I guess. Maybe I'm missing something even more obvious.
-John
> Bob, et. al.,
>
> I have a Z-19 architecture (modified a bit for a Subaru engine) with
> rear mounted Odyssey batteries. I have 2 lighter receptacles on the
> panel, each wired to a battery hot bus through a 10a fuse.
> I put a couple of lighter plugs on my Battery Tender Jr. as a convenient
> way to charge the batteries. I don't have my engine yet, to charge them
> the 'proper' way.
>
> The other night I decided to charge the batteries, because I've been
> playing with my radios a bit. I inserted the charger plugs one at a
> time to verify that the green light on the charger came on. When I
> removed the plugs, the fuses blew! Same thing on both of them, done one
> at a time. I've done this before with no problem. I double checked the
> wiring, and everything is connected as desired.
> I replaced the fuses, re-inserted the charger plugs, and let the
> batteries charge overnight. By morning the green light on the charger
> was blinking (indicating maintenance mode). I pulled the lighter plugs
> out, and this time one fuse blew. I replaced the fuse and plugged
> everything in again. The charger cord has a plug to allow use of
> multiple ends, so this time I disconnected the lighter plugs from the
> charger before removing the lighter plugs - no problem, Did that
> multiple times, no problems. I haven't tried pulling the energized
> lighter plugs out again (running low on fuses!).
> So, obviously, my question is: why would pulling out the energized
> lighter plugs cause the fuses to blow?
>
> Dennis Glaeser
> RV-7A
> Rochester Hills, MI
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master (to be or not to be) |
George,
Very interesting take on things. Quoting from the source you quoted
(Air West Avionics):
"Try starting the engine with the avionics on today and there's a good
chance you will damage your avionics. The damage may not show up
immediately, but nevertheless, the damage has been done."
Ah yes, the ole "insidious damage problem". Very convenient. You
probably suffered damage, even though you can't see it and, of course,
you can prove you didn't suffer damage because you can't see it. There
must be a double negative or Gordian knot in there somewhere!
The most valuable quote from the article comes in light of your
castigating Bob for espousing "opinions", and I quote from your
definitive reference:
In summary, if you have modern avionics such as KX-155s, Loran, DMEs,
GPS, fuel flows and sorts, then in my opinion an avionics master is a
must. (emphasis and underline, mine).
If I understand correctly, you are casting aspersions on Bob's
opinion....with another opinion; from someone who we don't know and have
no understanding of their CV, if any. Very interesting.
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 2:55 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Avionics Master (to be or not to be)
Greg if you want a avionic master switch
by golly PUT ONE IN, and be proud and
happy, because it will work just like you
think it will and know you like.
After you plow thru all the required reading
and "data" which is really an elaborate opinion
dressed up with a bunch of gobbly-gook,
bottom line its your choice and yours alone.
Bob has good points, but there not all
quintessential or relevant. For examples
some modern avionics, like the very popular
excellent Icom A200 com radio needs to be
OFF during start! So does my old Collins
transponder. You can use the little volume/off
switch or mode switch and turn them on and
off individually, but it's a pain. Bob may call
for Icom's head and berate them for their
design, but he is not going to buy you a new
Icom when it fries. If you insist on leaving
avionics on during start it could happen. By
the way the ICOM A200 is an awesome
radio and a super value, recommend.
One big fat beautiful avionics master
switch is nice. You can of course avoid
single point failure several ways. I
think the e-bus will do it, or two
switches in parallel, even a single
throw, double pole switch would do it.
Chance is the master switch will never
fail, and once you throw that switch on
its not going to fail, my opinion. Are
you flying IFR at 18,000 ft or day/night
vfr. Just use good old common sense.
I sometimes disagree with Bob and this is
one of them. This is one of those topics
Bob has a very strong opinion on, emphasis
on opinion, but don't let any one tell you what
to do when it comes down to preference,
which this is.
All you have to know is there is NOT a good
reason for leaving an avionics master switch
out of your panel. If that is what you want, it's
very simple, you want it, put it in. It's common
and useful even today.
Is opinion & preference not safety, end of story.
Here is another professional opinion:
http://avionicswest.com/articles.htm
Scroll to the bottom, "Avionics Master
Switch" article
Good Luck, and don't over think it and
use the KISS principle.
George ATP/CFI-II-ME/MSME
>From: "Greg Vouga" <gmvouga@hotmail.com>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Avionics Master
>
>All,
>
>I'm working on my panel and I'm trying
>to decide if I should put an Avionics
>Master switch. In my experience with
>rental planes this was nice to have
>since there was one switch to turn
>everything on or off during engine start
>or shutdown.
>
>Is there any reason not to add this
>feature? I'm planning an E-Bus and
>Main Bus configuration similar to the Z-
>13/8 design.
________________________________
Food fight?
<http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/index;_ylc=X3oDMTFvbGNhMGE3BF9TAzM5NjU0NT
E
wOARfcwMzOTY1NDUxMDMEc2VjA21haWxfdGFnbGluZQRzbGsDbWFpbF90YWcx?link=ask&
s
id=396545367> Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
<http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/index;_ylc=X3oDMTFvbGNhMGE3BF9TAzM5NjU0NT
E
wOARfcwMzOTY1NDUxMDMEc2VjA21haWxfdGFnbGluZQRzbGsDbWFpbF90YWcx?link=ask&
s
id=396545367>
Message 21
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| Subject: | AeroFlash Service |
Bought a two strobe set from AeroFlash for the Wittman Tailwind I am
building.
I noticed that the leads were too long going to the bulbs because I had
mounted the power supply units fairly close to the bulbs. Since I didn't
want to have a bunch of coiled wire there, I decided to shorten them. First,
I found out that the male crimp on pins were NOT Molex .06 or .09 as I
thought, then wondered if the length of the wires was critical.. Sent off an
email to Customer service at AeroFlash using the web-site form and asked
about wire length and what the connectors were.
They told me that the length was not critical, the contacts were made by
Tyco and are sending me the necessary pins for shortening the wires! Since I
am a "small-potatoes" customer - this is pretty nice! Thought you guys
should know.
Dave
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: AeroFlash Service |
Ditto your comments on AeroFlesh. I also have gotten great service from
them.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: "David & Elaine Lamphere" <lamphere@vabb.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 3:59 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: AeroFlash Service
> <lamphere@vabb.com>
>
> Bought a two strobe set from AeroFlash for the Wittman Tailwind I am
> building.
> I noticed that the leads were too long going to the bulbs because I had
> mounted the power supply units fairly close to the bulbs. Since I didn't
> want to have a bunch of coiled wire there, I decided to shorten them.
> First, I found out that the male crimp on pins were NOT Molex .06 or .09
> as I thought, then wondered if the length of the wires was critical.. Sent
> off an email to Customer service at AeroFlash using the web-site form and
> asked about wire length and what the connectors were.
>
> They told me that the length was not critical, the contacts were made by
> Tyco and are sending me the necessary pins for shortening the wires! Since
> I am a "small-potatoes" customer - this is pretty nice! Thought you guys
> should know.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Blowing fuses |
John,
I actually heard the 'pop' of the fuses! (It was a quiet evening in the
garage) I inserted the first plug, got the green light, and when I removed
it, I heard the pop, but didn't realize what it was. Then I inserted the
second one, got the green light again, and then removed it and heard the pop
again. Then I re-inserted the plugs - no green light. I'm using regular
automotive fuses.
The circuits work just fine when I insert the plugs.
I've got another data point - just went out and played again...
This time I inserted and removed the hot plugs one at a time, no problem.
So I plugged both in and removed one, and POP, the fuse of the one still
plugged in blew. The fuse for the one I removed is still fine, and I can
insert and remove that one with no problem, and the inserting/removing other
one has no effect, now that the circuit is dead. I'm not sure how I managed
to get both that first time (just lucky I guess :-)
So it appears that when both are charging, don't remove one at a time,
instead, unplug the cord (which kills both simultaneously).
But I'd still like to know why the fuse blows.
Thanks,
Dennis
Subject: Re: Blowing fuses
From: john@ballofshame.com
How do you know when the fuse is blowing? For example, if you plug both
in and there's a short somewhere, one fuse may blow and the other one will
look OK. The charger still sees a battery so it'll still turn green. You
unplug one (the blown one) and notice the fuse is blown. You unplug the
other one, jostle something that shorts out again, and it blows the 2nd
fuse.
I'm not suggesting this happened. I'm just curious how you determined the
timing of when the fuse actually blew. Do you see any marking on the
connectors or recepticle that would indicate an arc? Are you using a fast
or slow fuse?
Maybe there's just a small arc when you disconnect it and you have to use
a slow blow fuse? That would seem strange to me.
The most obvious answer would be that there's a short in one of the
recepticles or the plugs. That's so simple to check that it should be the
first step, I guess. Maybe I'm missing something even more obvious.
-John
Message 24
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| Subject: | GS-Air Strobe Current 6 Amps |
Last week, a reader asked about sizing the fuse and wires for a GS-Air
strobe light power supply. The GS-Air strobe light is part of a wingtip
position and strobe light unit. The position lights are LEDs and the
strobe lights are conventional strobes. The strobes are powered by a
single, remote power supply. For more info:
www.gs-air.com
I replied that I used a 10 amp fuse instead of the 15 amp fuse in the
instruction manual and haven't had a problem in my first 50 hours of
flight. Bob asked me to measure the actual current draw, which I did
today.
My GS-Air strobe power supply is model XPAK604X-HR, 60 watt 4 outlet
strobe power supply with half speed flash patterns. It has two
selectable output levels, high and low. I run mine on high. I bought
mine a year or so ago and this power supply was a new model and replaced
the previous one. The older model may consume more or less current than
mine.
Using the "bar graph" function on my Fluke 87 meter, the current draw
fluctuated from zero to maybe 10 or so amps (I couldn't really tell),
but spent most of it's time between 5.5 and 6.5 amps. The bar graph
function on the display more or less duplicates an analog meter's
response rate.
I had intended to use a cheap ($5 from Harbor Freight) analog meter, but
it could only measure up to 0.5 amp. Lucky for me, I read the meter's
instructions first and didn't blow the meter's fuse!
By the way, I'm really happy with these strobe light/position light
combination units. They use LEDs for the position lights (green or red
forward, white aft) and are cheaper and appear more aerodynamic than the
Whelens. The GS-Air website has a 15 page document that explains how
they meet the FAA requirement, in case you happen to get a grouchy
inspector when it comes time to sign off your airplane.
Regards,
Dennis Johnson
Lancair Legacy, now flying
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master (to be or not to be) |
For the life of me I can't remember which piece of equipment it was, but.
There was some piece of avionics, which I think was a nav/com, that would
maintain "state" if turned off via an avionics master, but would not if
turned off via the power switch.
In other words, if you turned it off via an avionics master, when you turned
it back on it would still be set to the same active and standby frequencies,
and perhaps some other settings.
But if you turned it off with the power switch, when you turned it back on
if would wake up with some type of "default" settings.
To me, this would be a good reason for including an avionics master switch.
Does anyone else remember which piece of equipment offered a function like
this? I think it was something fairly recent by Garmin, but I'm not sure.
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 1:55 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Avionics Master (to be or not to be)
Greg if you want a avionic master switch
by golly PUT ONE IN, and be proud and
happy, because it will work just like you
think it will and know you like.
After you plow thru all the required reading
and "data" which is really an elaborate opinion
dressed up with a bunch of gobbly-gook,
bottom line its your choice and yours alone.
Bob has good points, but there not all
quintessential or relevant. For examples
some modern avionics, like the very popular
excellent Icom A200 com radio needs to be
OFF during start! So does my old Collins
transponder. You can use the little volume/off
switch or mode switch and turn them on and
off individually, but it's a pain. Bob may call
for Icom's head and berate them for their
design, but he is not going to buy you a new
Icom when it fries. If you insist on leaving
avionics on during start it could happen. By
the way the ICOM A200 is an awesome
radio and a super value, recommend.
One big fat beautiful avionics master
switch is nice. You can of course avoid
single point failure several ways. I
think the e-bus will do it, or two
switches in parallel, even a single
throw, double pole switch would do it.
Chance is the master switch will never
fail, and once you throw that switch on
its not going to fail, my opinion. Are
you flying IFR at 18,000 ft or day/night
vfr. Just use good old common sense.
I sometimes disagree with Bob and this is
one of them. This is one of those topics
Bob has a very strong opinion on, emphasis
on opinion, but don't let any one tell you what
to do when it comes down to preference,
which this is.
All you have to know is there is NOT a good
reason for leaving an avionics master switch
out of your panel. If that is what you want, it's
very simple, you want it, put it in. It's common
and useful even today.
Is opinion & preference not safety, end of story.
Here is another professional opinion:
http://avionicswest.com/articles.htm
Scroll to the bottom, "Avionics Master
Switch" article
Good Luck, and don't over think it and
use the KISS principle.
George ATP/CFI-II-ME/MSME
>From: "Greg Vouga" <gmvouga@hotmail.com>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Avionics Master
>
>All,
>
>I'm working on my panel and I'm trying
>to decide if I should put an Avionics
>Master switch. In my experience with
>rental planes this was nice to have
>since there was one switch to turn
>everything on or off during engine start
>or shutdown.
>
>Is there any reason not to add this
>feature? I'm planning an E-Bus and
>Main Bus configuration similar to the Z-
>13/8 design.
_____
Food
<http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/index;_ylc=X3oDMTFvbGNhMGE3BF9TAzM5NjU0NTEwOAR
fcwMzOTY1NDUxMDMEc2VjA21haWxfdGFnbGluZQRzbGsDbWFpbF90YWcx?link=ask&sid=39654
5367> fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo!
<http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/index;_ylc=X3oDMTFvbGNhMGE3BF9TAzM5NjU0NTEwOAR
fcwMzOTY1NDUxMDMEc2VjA21haWxfdGFnbGluZQRzbGsDbWFpbF90YWcx?link=ask&sid=39654
5367> Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
Message 26
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| Subject: | GS-Air Strobe Current 6 Amps |
That reader was me. Thanks, Dennis.
Regards,
Terry
Velocity XL RG
Wiriing
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dennis
Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 6:55 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: GS-Air Strobe Current 6 Amps
Last week, a reader asked about sizing the fuse and wires for a GS-Air
strobe light power supply. The GS-Air strobe light is part of a wingtip
position and strobe light unit. The position lights are LEDs and the strobe
lights are conventional strobes. The strobes are powered by a single,
remote power supply. For more info:
www.gs-air.com
I replied that I used a 10 amp fuse instead of the 15 amp fuse in the
instruction manual and haven't had a problem in my first 50 hours of flight.
Bob asked me to measure the actual current draw, which I did today.
My GS-Air strobe power supply is model XPAK604X-HR, 60 watt 4 outlet strobe
power supply with half speed flash patterns. It has two selectable output
levels, high and low. I run mine on high. I bought mine a year or so ago
and this power supply was a new model and replaced the previous one. The
older model may consume more or less current than mine.
Using the "bar graph" function on my Fluke 87 meter, the current draw
fluctuated from zero to maybe 10 or so amps (I couldn't really tell), but
spent most of it's time between 5.5 and 6.5 amps. The bar graph function on
the display more or less duplicates an analog meter's response rate.
I had intended to use a cheap ($5 from Harbor Freight) analog meter, but it
could only measure up to 0.5 amp. Lucky for me, I read the meter's
instructions first and didn't blow the meter's fuse!
By the way, I'm really happy with these strobe light/position light
combination units. They use LEDs for the position lights (green or red
forward, white aft) and are cheaper and appear more aerodynamic than the
Whelens. The GS-Air website has a 15 page document that explains how they
meet the FAA requirement, in case you happen to get a grouchy inspector when
it comes time to sign off your airplane.
Regards,
Dennis Johnson
Lancair Legacy, now flying
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Blowing fuses |
Dennis, this is just a stab in the dark, since I not certain what loads you
have on the plugs. But, if you have both plugs in pulling current from a
common system and suddenly unplug one of them - if there is any inductive
component in the system, then the termination of the current flowing in one
plug might induce added current in the second plug. This may be why they
only pop when you remove one. Again, just a stab in the dark.
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "glaesers" <glaesers@wideopenwest.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 6:21 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Blowing fuses
> <glaesers@wideopenwest.com>
>
> John,
>
> I actually heard the 'pop' of the fuses! (It was a quiet evening in the
> garage) I inserted the first plug, got the green light, and when I
> removed
> it, I heard the pop, but didn't realize what it was. Then I inserted the
> second one, got the green light again, and then removed it and heard the
> pop
> again. Then I re-inserted the plugs - no green light. I'm using regular
> automotive fuses.
> The circuits work just fine when I insert the plugs.
>
> I've got another data point - just went out and played again...
> This time I inserted and removed the hot plugs one at a time, no problem.
> So I plugged both in and removed one, and POP, the fuse of the one still
> plugged in blew. The fuse for the one I removed is still fine, and I can
> insert and remove that one with no problem, and the inserting/removing
> other
> one has no effect, now that the circuit is dead. I'm not sure how I
> managed
> to get both that first time (just lucky I guess :-)
> So it appears that when both are charging, don't remove one at a time,
> instead, unplug the cord (which kills both simultaneously).
> But I'd still like to know why the fuse blows.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dennis
>
>
> Subject: Re: Blowing fuses
> From: john@ballofshame.com
> Date: Tue May 15 - 12:31 PM
>
> How do you know when the fuse is blowing? For example, if you plug both
> in and there's a short somewhere, one fuse may blow and the other one will
> look OK. The charger still sees a battery so it'll still turn green. You
> unplug one (the blown one) and notice the fuse is blown. You unplug the
> other one, jostle something that shorts out again, and it blows the 2nd
> fuse.
>
> I'm not suggesting this happened. I'm just curious how you determined the
> timing of when the fuse actually blew. Do you see any marking on the
> connectors or recepticle that would indicate an arc? Are you using a fast
> or slow fuse?
>
> Maybe there's just a small arc when you disconnect it and you have to use
> a slow blow fuse? That would seem strange to me.
>
> The most obvious answer would be that there's a short in one of the
> recepticles or the plugs. That's so simple to check that it should be the
> first step, I guess. Maybe I'm missing something even more obvious.
>
> -John
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Comm and Intercom Interconnection: Expected Results? |
Hi,
I'm installing a Garmin GNC250XL VFR GPS/Comm and a PS Engineering 1000
II intercom.
I've been checking for opens and shorts between my mic and headphone
jacks and the connectors at the end of the harnesses for the Comm and
Intercom. (As detailed below, I've installed three sets of jacks in
this two-place airplane -- pilot, copilot and aux.)
Is the following behavior to be expected? I don't want to wait until
the windshield is in and everything is installed before I find out
something is wrong. (The asterisked items show my specific
concerns/questions.)
***Mic Tip: Continuity for Pilot's and Aux Mike jacks to correct pin on
both Comm and Intercom connectors. The copilot mic tip has continuity
to Intercom pin but shows 164 ohms resistance to Comm pin whether PTT
button is pushed or not.
***Mic Audio Hi: Continuity for both pilot's and aux mic jacks to both
Comm and Intercom. Copilot's mic jack has continuity to Intercom but is
"open" to Comm pin.
Mic Audio Lo: All three jacks show continuity to both Comm and
Intercom.
***Headphones Tip: Pilot's and copilot's phone jacks show continuity to
Intercom but are "open" to Comm. Aux phone jack shows continuity to
both Comm and Intercom.
Headphones Ring: All three jacks show continuity to both Comm and
Intercom.
Additional details about my installation follow:
The wiring diagram for the Comm shows (numbers in parenthesis are pin
numbers on that units connector):
- (4) Mic Key to Mic Jack
- (2) Mic Audio Hi to Mic Jack
- (3) Mic Audio Shield (Low) to Mic Jack
- (5) Comm Audio Hi to Audio Panel
- (6) Comm Audio Low to Audio Panel
The wiring diagram for the Intercom shows:
- (12) Aircraft Radio PTT to Aux Mic Jack
- (25) Aircraft Mic Audio Hi to Aux Mic Jack
- (13) Aircraft Mic Audio Low to Aux Mic Jack
- (17) A/C Radio Phone Audio Hi to Aux Headphone Jack
- (4) A/C Radio Phone Audio Low to Aux Headphone Jack
I've installed an aux mic jack and aux headphone jack in addition to the
pilot's and copilot's jacks. I've soldered the wires from both the Comm
and the Intercom to their respective points on the aux jacks. That way
if my Intercom dies, I can plug directly into the Comm and completely
bypass the Intercom. The PTT wires for the Aux Mic Jack run to a
two-pin Molex connector just downstream from the pilot's control stick.
The respective wires from each of the pilot's and aux jack are crimped
into one pin. (I didn't attach the shields together here to avoid a
ground loop. Shields are connected together elsewhere.)
I'm also using two conductor 22 AWG shielded wire and am using the
shield for the "Lo" conductor.
Thanks in advance.
Best regards,
Bob
GlaStar
N248BF
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: GS-Air Strobe Current 6 Amps |
Dennis,
Not meaning to be a complete bonehead, but where on the GS-Air site is
the 15 page paper you refer to. I poked around and could not find it.
Their site has always been rudimentary and the only thing I saw was
ferference to meeting FAR Part 23, but no link to a paper. I have had
my lights from them for a couple of years and installed them to my
Velocity Build a few months ago, however, even though I have faith in
the product, I would like to have documentaion to show a DAR now that I
am getting somewhat closer to actually flying. TIA.
All the best,
Chris Barber
Houston, Texas
www.LoneStarVelocity.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Johnson
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 5:54 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: GS-Air Strobe Current 6 Amps
Last week, a reader asked about sizing the fuse and wires for a GS-Air
strobe light power supply. The GS-Air strobe light is part of a wingtip
position and strobe light unit. The position lights are LEDs and the
strobe lights are conventional strobes. The strobes are powered by a
single, remote power supply. For more info:
www.gs-air.com
I replied that I used a 10 amp fuse instead of the 15 amp fuse in the
instruction manual and haven't had a problem in my first 50 hours of
flight. Bob asked me to measure the actual current draw, which I did
today.
My GS-Air strobe power supply is model XPAK604X-HR, 60 watt 4 outlet
strobe power supply with half speed flash patterns. It has two
selectable output levels, high and low. I run mine on high. I bought
mine a year or so ago and this power supply was a new model and replaced
the previous one. The older model may consume more or less current than
mine.
Using the "bar graph" function on my Fluke 87 meter, the current draw
fluctuated from zero to maybe 10 or so amps (I couldn't really tell),
but spent most of it's time between 5.5 and 6.5 amps. The bar graph
function on the display more or less duplicates an analog meter's
response rate.
I had intended to use a cheap ($5 from Harbor Freight) analog meter,
but it could only measure up to 0.5 amp. Lucky for me, I read the
meter's instructions first and didn't blow the meter's fuse!
By the way, I'm really happy with these strobe light/position light
combination units. They use LEDs for the position lights (green or red
forward, white aft) and are cheaper and appear more aerodynamic than the
Whelens. The GS-Air website has a 15 page document that explains how
they meet the FAA requirement, in case you happen to get a grouchy
inspector when it comes time to sign off your airplane.
Regards,
Dennis Johnson
Lancair Legacy, now flying
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